Database Users

Full Charge or trickle?

Is there any way to see if the unit is being fast or slow charged? It seems that the HTC charger uses an extra pin on the charger to enable fast charging and that MAY be why some aftermarket chargers (wall and car) do not seem to keep up with the battery discharge when running even if their plugged into a charger with sufficiant current capability. The HTC Wall caheger is rated as a 1 Amp charger. I have other chargers that use an external USB cable to connect, both rated as 1.5Amp (1500mA) chargers but seem to charge very slow. Soooooo I'm looking for the difference between the HTC charger and the aftemarket ones to see if I can make the ones I have work properly.
Thanks for any help
joe
<edit> in Looking at the Mini USB spec I find 5 pins labeled 1-2-3-x-4 with 1being VCC (5v), 2 & 3 being Data + & - and 4 being Gnd. Does the Advantage use the X pin to enable fast charging? How? Does it provide a second 5v line to cause/enable the Advantage to fastcharge? I think I need to look at the wall charger mini USB pinouts.

After talking to Pocket PC Techs and looking around online, it looks like the x-pin (next to pin 4(gnd)) is shorted to pin 4 to provide the advantage with a sense line to tell it to fast charge. The also shuts off the data lines in the unit AFAICT. Still don't know what the current capability of "Fast Charge" is or how to ask the unit to query the port for status. USB ports are generaly limited to 500ma and the stock charger is 1000ma (1A) so it seems that to ensure the MAX charge, the cable connected needs to have the x pin and pin 4 shorted. This is usefull if you are NOT wanting to do a data transfer (car GPS, stand alone charging, etc).
Here is a link to the connector http://pinouts.ru/PDA/pda_miniusb_pinout.shtml
Anyone can add to this?
Joe

I just received the Lil Sync DUO Mini-5 Adapter from PPC tech and it works perfectly. I'm now getting a fast charge from my PC (no sync) and I'm able to charge my S705 bluetooth headset.

Interesting news on the pinouts. I've never heard of any utility that shows fast vs. slow charge.

I wonder if anyone has a utility that can sense a gnd on the x pin (next to gnd) of the input connector. Does anyone have a schematic of the advantage side of the input power/data connector. It would me that there might be a pullup on that line sothe unit see's it as a high untill pulled low by a ground applied tothe x pin.

here you have "hot to do it"
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=396053

ppa25 said:
I just received the Lil Sync DUO Mini-5 Adapter from PPC tech and it works perfectly. I'm now getting a fast charge from my PC (no sync) and I'm able to charge my S705 bluetooth headset.
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Please tell me i need "PPC Techs HTC Advantage Lil Sync Extended Cable + mini 5 DUO" ( http://www.expansys.com.gr/p.aspx?i=145972) or ONLY "PPC Techs HTC Advantage Lil Sync DUO Mini-5 USB Adapter" (http://www.expansys.com.gr/p.aspx?i=145975) ?

USB to Barrel Cord / Barrel Specs? iGo Tip?

My goal is to not bring the A500 charger with me at all when I travel.
I just bought a refurbished iGo 90W charger at Fry's. I know if the correct tip was obtained it has plenty of juice to charge the tablet, but I'd rather use a USB solution and not hog a laptop charging port.
To accompany the iGo adapter, I'm thinking of purchasing a AC to multi-port USB adapter from monoprice.com (details below).
So although I'd have some USB to micro USB charging cables for cell phone, hotspot, gps, etc., (they have 1.5ft on monoprice.com), I will very much lighten my electronics charger and related cords load (and finally, charge the A500)
iGo Tip:
I have an ongoing Support Request with iGo regarding a tip for my A500 tablet. - I can update the thread when they respond. My charger uses the 700 series tips, it's the "slim" charger.
USB to Barrel Connector / Barrel Connector Details:
I'm not sure what the size of the barrel on the adapter is for the A500?. presumably this can't be too uncommon. On Amazon.com search for "usb to micro barrel" and tons of cables pop-up.
They have this USB AC adapter on monoprice.com (Product ID 8856 / http://www.monoprice.com/products/p...=10851&cs_id=1085102&p_id=8856&seq=1&format=2) that supplies a 2A charge to a single USB port designed for an iPad. I gotta think if I get the right USB to Barrel Connector cable it would charge the A500 well. I'm pretty sure a standard PC USB 2.0 spec port doesn't putout enough juice?
Any thoughts would be very much appreciated. I tried to comb the forum pretty exhaustively and I try and stay up to date anyway, so I'm not sure this information is really out there anywhere. I did notice the AC adapter thread http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=1856752, good news there!
-kg

Sorry to say: forget about it. USB spec is 5V 0.5A (most hubs allow up to 1A these days); Even if you had a way to step up the amps to the required 18W (that's 3.6A if you do the math), the tab still expects you to use 12V 1.5A... So you'd probably fry your tab. Your only solution thus would be a transformer 5V 3.6A -> 12V 1.5A. Now, I haven't checked this but I don't expect anything like this even exists and even if it does, it's probably so large you might just as well take the charger with you.
BTW: My measurements say the connector has a 3mm outside diameter and .75mm inside diameter. So if you can make your charger output 12V you're golden, as amps will be determined by the tab anyway. 90W means anything significantly above will trigger a fuse and shut the charger down -- or make it go up in smoke (possibly even blow up) if there's no fuse (if it's CE/FCC approved, it has one)...

haag498 said:
Sorry to say: forget about it. USB spec is 5V 0.5A (most hubs allow up to 1A these days); Even if you had a way to step up the amps to the required 18W (that's 3.6A if you do the math), the tab still expects you to use 12V 1.5A... So you'd probably fry your tab. Your only solution thus would be a transformer 5V 3.6A -> 12V 1.5A. Now, I haven't checked this but I don't expect anything like this even exists and even if it does, it's probably so large you might just as well take the charger with you.
BTW: My measurements say the connector has a 3mm outside diameter and .75mm inside diameter. So if you can make your charger output 12V you're golden, as amps will be determined by the tab anyway. 90W means anything significantly above will trigger a fuse and shut the charger down -- or make it go up in smoke (possibly even blow up) if there's no fuse (if it's CE/FCC approved, it has one)...
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Thanks for the reply. So it seems the iGo tip is certainly still a possibility, i'm still waiting on them to get back to me.
While I am certainly not an electrician, I did find a thread here: Sorry it is on another forum and I don't have enough posts yet... It is titled Is "there a car charger for the A500" on androidtablets.net
They indicate that a 2000mA car charger from amazon works to charge the tab: Search for B0042X8XOQ on amazon.
Correct me if I'm wrong, but if that 2000mA charger charges the tab, wouldn't the proposed USB corded solution (with special 2-2.1A port) also work?
Thanks again!

My first project - Project GAMETRIX

Lapdock+Wii == Gametrix
So I have a spare Nintendo Wii and a lapdock (hopefully pick some more up if there are still any at Radioshack) and I am going to disassemble the Wii, reconfigure it to fit on the back "panel" of the Lapdock, and get the needed cords to create a Gametrix
My initial goal is to connect a Nintendo Wii to my Atrix Lapdock by... (with modifications)
1) a. Having the Lapdock’s Male Mini-HDMI plugged into a Female Mini-HDMI TO M / F Fullsized-HDMI converter. Thus allowing a direct HDMI connection from there.
This takes care of ½ of connections for both the Lapdock and the Wii.
2) a. Ideally I am looking to hook the Wii’s power supply directly to the Lapdock’s Male Micro-USB port, via a Female Micro-USB TO M / F Fullsized-USB. From there I’d need a USB to Female Wall Outlet (3 prong?) this would entail finding(unlikely...) / building one.
This takes care of power needs, (if it works) leaving only the unlikely usability of the Lapdocks built in keyboard and mouse / USB ports.
2) b. if number 2 section a (above) doesn’t work because of lack of volts traveling through the USB to the Wii, then I’d be left with connecting an external battery to the Wii and just taking advantage of the screen.
Hopefully if I have to result to section b then I’d at least be able to use the keyboard and mouse?
I will update with a Diagram of my plan “a” and “b” tomorrow after school.
This is my first Project, I'm still learning, and still planning so don't expect anything yet. I' moved this thread from Atrix thread, as it fits better here

I guess there should be no problem with using it as a monitor and keyboard/mouse, someone already done that, google: "Using a Motorola Atrix Lapdock as a HDMI Monitor and USB Keyboard / Mouse" (can't post URLs :/ ).
2a) USB won't be able to supply enough power. And you want to convert 5V DC to 110V AC?! Forget about it.
2b) Maybe you will be able to use Lapdocks internal battery (with some hardware modifications). I think it can store about 40Wh, so that should allow to run Lapdock and Wii for about an hour.

The wii's power cable is a 3 prong 12v wall outlet cable. The Lapdock is capable of outputting a total if 12v or so I've read, and the Wii requires 12 volts to boot, and it runs on 10v. Im not sure how many volts the Lapdock display will draw though so I'm still very hesitant on how I'm going to solve the power issue. I want to run everything off of the lapdocks battery. Is this possible? Any recommendations are appreciated. Thanks!

"Female Wall Outlet" - I somehow convinced myself that you mean Wall Plug, sorry about that Google says that power supply for Wii is rated for "DC 12V 3.7A". Even if there is a 12V rail on Lapdocks PCB it probably won't be able to handle additional 3A. You can try to build your own power supply circuit and connect it directly to Lapdocks battery, bypassing its internal circuits. Battery in Lapdock is rated for 11.1V. Do you have any experience with electronics (soldering, circuit design etc)?

No, this is my first project, I decided Im not going to get my feet wet with electronic modifications, instead I'm just going to dive right in If you have any info for me about dealing with circuits, inverters, and batteries that you could share, that'd be great as we'll. I can find any documentation for powering the Wii because I'm certain you can't just throw 12v at it, it has to be split right? Like a lot of consoles need 9v and 45v... it's a lot to learn so any help is greatly appreciated.

If you are going to use 2 pin power connector on the back panel of the Wii it's enough to supply it with 12V (one of the pins is +12V, other one is ground), but the hard part is that Wii can consume up to 4 Amps. Because you're not experienced in electronics I think you can consider:
1) getting a battery pack like this one, (unfortunately it can supply only 2A, getting 4A one may be difficult/expensive).
2) using 4 cell battery pack (for example: a laptop battery), which should give you something between 13V and 15V, and LDO (low dropout voltage regulator), like LM1084, to get 12V output.
[edit[
There are many other possibilities, it all depends on how much time/money you want to put into this project.

Let us know how it goes. I'd be interested in seeing the progress of this project.

I've had to put all electronics on hold for a bit, school and community service is pretty overwhelming ATM, but I guarantee that I'll follow through with this and finish it. Thanks for all the suggestions guys!

[Q] Nexus Player power supply

Hello,
Can onyone that owns a Nexus player tell me if the power supply has multi voltage e.g. will it accept 220V next to 110V as well? Just ordered a US version that comes with US plug and probably 110V of input power. The plug is not an issue, there are adapters for that, but the voltage could be more of an issue.
Thanks,
Mark

No problem with 220V input on the US adaptors.

ruZZ.il said:
No problem with 220V input on the US adaptors.
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Click to collapse
Thanks!

markb74 said:
Hello,
Can onyone that owns a Nexus player tell me if the power supply has multi voltage e.g. will it accept 220V next to 110V as well? Just ordered a US version that comes with US plug and probably 110V of input power. The plug is not an issue, there are adapters for that, but the voltage could be more of an issue.
Thanks,
Mark
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
So did it work ? I want to order Nexus Player too from US and i wonder if it will work with simple travel adapter.

I'm using NP ordered from Amazon with US power supply in Australia (240v). It's a universal voltage power supply and it just needed a simple plug adaptor to make it fit our sockets.

Hard wiring for phone with USB-C and smart/fast charging?

Hey folks, so I've done the hard wiring of older phones with MicroUSB and <2000mAh charging before. It was pretty easy by just using a 12V to 5V 3A converter similar to what you see in the attached pic.
Now I want to do something similar for my Google Pixel XL which has a USB-C interface and does smart/fast charging.
Problem is, I'm unfamiliar with this tech and don't want to just wire it up without asking for advice first.
I'm thinking I'll be just fine using the same adapter you see in the pic below.
And I'm thinking I'll be just fine by using the two power wires and two ground wires from the USB-C spliced onto the 12v-to-5v converter.
I do not believe I need to worry about the fifth cable used for signaling between two devices.
So, from the USB-C connector, I would splice its two power wires to the single [out] power wire on the converter. And the two ground wires to the single [out] power wire on the converter.
Then the [in] power and ground on the converter would be spliced into my 12v harness of my car (or Motorcycle).
This should get me full speed charging just like my stock USB-C charger from Google.
Do ya'll agree or am I missing something that may screw things up?
https://hackaday.com/2016/04/22/hackaday-dictionary-usb-type-c/
Four of these connections are designated as VBUS connections, carrying the power for charging and operating connected devices. In addition, two pins are used for grounding, and one pin is used for signalling between the two devices to determine how much power should be sent. Running at the USB standard 5 V, the VBUS cables can supply up to 3 amps, a big increase on the 2 amps available in USB 3 cables, and much more than USB 2.
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The 12V to 5V 3A converter I use:
post a picture