Lapdock+Wii == Gametrix
So I have a spare Nintendo Wii and a lapdock (hopefully pick some more up if there are still any at Radioshack) and I am going to disassemble the Wii, reconfigure it to fit on the back "panel" of the Lapdock, and get the needed cords to create a Gametrix
My initial goal is to connect a Nintendo Wii to my Atrix Lapdock by... (with modifications)
1) a. Having the Lapdock’s Male Mini-HDMI plugged into a Female Mini-HDMI TO M / F Fullsized-HDMI converter. Thus allowing a direct HDMI connection from there.
This takes care of ½ of connections for both the Lapdock and the Wii.
2) a. Ideally I am looking to hook the Wii’s power supply directly to the Lapdock’s Male Micro-USB port, via a Female Micro-USB TO M / F Fullsized-USB. From there I’d need a USB to Female Wall Outlet (3 prong?) this would entail finding(unlikely...) / building one.
This takes care of power needs, (if it works) leaving only the unlikely usability of the Lapdocks built in keyboard and mouse / USB ports.
2) b. if number 2 section a (above) doesn’t work because of lack of volts traveling through the USB to the Wii, then I’d be left with connecting an external battery to the Wii and just taking advantage of the screen.
Hopefully if I have to result to section b then I’d at least be able to use the keyboard and mouse?
I will update with a Diagram of my plan “a” and “b” tomorrow after school.
This is my first Project, I'm still learning, and still planning so don't expect anything yet. I' moved this thread from Atrix thread, as it fits better here
I guess there should be no problem with using it as a monitor and keyboard/mouse, someone already done that, google: "Using a Motorola Atrix Lapdock as a HDMI Monitor and USB Keyboard / Mouse" (can't post URLs :/ ).
2a) USB won't be able to supply enough power. And you want to convert 5V DC to 110V AC?! Forget about it.
2b) Maybe you will be able to use Lapdocks internal battery (with some hardware modifications). I think it can store about 40Wh, so that should allow to run Lapdock and Wii for about an hour.
The wii's power cable is a 3 prong 12v wall outlet cable. The Lapdock is capable of outputting a total if 12v or so I've read, and the Wii requires 12 volts to boot, and it runs on 10v. Im not sure how many volts the Lapdock display will draw though so I'm still very hesitant on how I'm going to solve the power issue. I want to run everything off of the lapdocks battery. Is this possible? Any recommendations are appreciated. Thanks!
"Female Wall Outlet" - I somehow convinced myself that you mean Wall Plug, sorry about that Google says that power supply for Wii is rated for "DC 12V 3.7A". Even if there is a 12V rail on Lapdocks PCB it probably won't be able to handle additional 3A. You can try to build your own power supply circuit and connect it directly to Lapdocks battery, bypassing its internal circuits. Battery in Lapdock is rated for 11.1V. Do you have any experience with electronics (soldering, circuit design etc)?
No, this is my first project, I decided Im not going to get my feet wet with electronic modifications, instead I'm just going to dive right in If you have any info for me about dealing with circuits, inverters, and batteries that you could share, that'd be great as we'll. I can find any documentation for powering the Wii because I'm certain you can't just throw 12v at it, it has to be split right? Like a lot of consoles need 9v and 45v... it's a lot to learn so any help is greatly appreciated.
If you are going to use 2 pin power connector on the back panel of the Wii it's enough to supply it with 12V (one of the pins is +12V, other one is ground), but the hard part is that Wii can consume up to 4 Amps. Because you're not experienced in electronics I think you can consider:
1) getting a battery pack like this one, (unfortunately it can supply only 2A, getting 4A one may be difficult/expensive).
2) using 4 cell battery pack (for example: a laptop battery), which should give you something between 13V and 15V, and LDO (low dropout voltage regulator), like LM1084, to get 12V output.
[edit[
There are many other possibilities, it all depends on how much time/money you want to put into this project.
Let us know how it goes. I'd be interested in seeing the progress of this project.
I've had to put all electronics on hold for a bit, school and community service is pretty overwhelming ATM, but I guarantee that I'll follow through with this and finish it. Thanks for all the suggestions guys!
Related
I still have an old Nokia carkit in my car and I was thinking of replacing it with one of those brodit cradles. My main problem is that I don't want to use the cigar lighter for power.
Is it possible to just cut the usb connector of the cigar lighter loader cable, connect it to one of the cables from my old Nokia carkit and use this for loading?
Dont do that, its possible you could fry your device or at least do some damage.
I am biased, yes, as I retail the Brodit kits, i would advise spending a little more and getting the 971671 Molex Hard Wired kit that allows you to safley hard wire it to your cars power system, and also power any BT GPS reciver with an additional Molex adapter lead that fits your unit (Holux, Edo, Haicom etc)
Hope that helps, if you need any advice, drop me a line,
Thanks,
Bryson
I think I'll look into that option, it seems a lot safer and easier.
Is it hard to do the fixed installation yourself or is it better to go to the car dealer and have them install it?
Hi,
It depends on whether you have easy access to the console beind your stereo head unit, and how familiar you are with the wiring, not all cars are obvious as to which to attach the loose end cables too!,
- also, if it is a car you care for and need to keep warranty on, I would sincerley recommend going to a dealer, it should not be too expensive, its quite a quick job, depending on your car, and if you do go the Brodit route, you can fit the Proclip and Molex holder yourself, thats a 2 minute job,
Hope that helps,
Thanks again,
Bryson
DO NOT CONNECT YOUR MINIUSB CABLE TO THE CARS MAINS
Yes, you will probably destroy your Prophet. USB powered devices run at 5V, a normal computer USB port can provide a maximum of 500ma. The voltage in your car is 12 volts and a direct connection can provide whatever current that leg is fused for. Don't worry about the current DO worry about the voltage. The cigar lighter adapter most people use contains a voltage regulator to reduce the voltage to 5v and a very low current fuse. The one sitting on my desk is 2A (2000ma). If you want a do it yourself solution you can get a 7805 voltage regulator at any Radio Shack or any other electronics supply store. You wont even need a heat sink as the Prophet is desined to only draw a few hundred milliamps and the 7805 is rated at 1A. There are only 3 leads on the 7805 one for the 12V in, one for the 5v out and a common/ground. These are not the most efficent regulators but will be fine in your car.
-j
This is my first post with links and info and stuff so please don't mind the bad formatting or other errors.
I bought a docking station a bit back and tore it down; I'm not very impressed but I'm sure we can make something of it.
Dock:
Connector and IR:
Connector - Top:
Connector - Bottom:
Mainboard - Top:
Mainboard - Bottom:
As you can see on this unit there isn't any HDMI however the board was made for it. Also of note is the HDMI pins on the ribbon cable.
I've checked and the nuvoTon (W78E052DFG) is an 8052 with 8KB flash and 256 bytes ram.
The audio portion seems to have a filter set on it however I don't believe it's amplified.
I have not been able to determine if there is or isn't USB on the ribbon cable or connector though there's no sign of it on the board.
Another point is I've switched to a custom rom and it no longer detects the dock. I noticed before switching that there is a service that watches for the dock and I'm guessing sends a signal to android to start the media app on dock. Virtuous XooM does not in any way detect connection.
Communication with the 8052 is through serial and the kernel source shows info about it. I haven't been able to find any reference to USB. if USB is present I'd expect it to be the pair near pin 30.
(All images taken with the A500 camera)
------- New info: (copied from later post)
This is the dock pinout as seen by the tablet (other devices may have different pins connected)
1-10 no connection
11 - unknown - traced to Q9 near IR connector on dock but unable to find past there (2v from tablet)
12 no connection
13 - audio connect of some sort - appears to be connected to left channel (after capacitor) through a 1k resistor
14 - Right audio - decoupled with 100uF
15 - Left audio - decoupled with 100uF like right channel
16 - Audio ground - not connected to main ground
17 no connection
18-20 +12V
21-30 HDMI - NO signals connected except GND at 21,24,27,30
31 - unknown - 3.3v from tablet
32 - TXD pin on 8052 through a level converter
33 - RXD pin on 8052 through a level converter
34 - unknown - 0v - 3.3v when dock unpowered but tablet connected so this may be a dock detection
35 - connected to 33 on tablet side
36 - connected to 32 on tablet side
37-40 no connection
These are all assumptions based on zebra cable layout so are quite probably wrong. They are also numbered based on the ribbon cable and I haven't made a conversion between ribbon cable and connector.
A voltage readings were done with an uncalibrated DMM on an oscilloscope (which seems to be .2v off or more). If i mark "from tablet" it's because it's not live when tablet not present and live even if power is disconnected from base.
1 case ground 0v
2-7 serial port(0v across)
8-20 HDMI
21unknown 3.3v from tablet
22 unknown 2v from tablet
23 unknown 2v from tablet
24-25 audio - audio even when nothing plugged in 0v
26 audio ground 0v
27 unknown 2v from tablet
28 unknown 0v (3.3v when dock unpowered but tablet docked)
30-35 12.0V
37 unknown 0v
38-40 gnd
Audio pins are correct but I can't tell which channel is which without finding a mp3 with audio only on one side. I would also trust the HDMI pins as ballanced pairs with shield between running directly to the HDMI portion of the board does seem rather proving.
None of the pins really look like USB as they should remain at 0v until a device is plugged in. I'll test connecting a 1500 ohm resister to 3.3v while monitoring the pin under test and see if I can find a USB connection attempt that way. If that doesn't work, finding pins with 15k ohm to GND would also indicate USB and I can try connecting a device to those.
Just recieved mine today from Amazon (they went on sale, so I figured I'd bite). No HDMI is disappointing, but not a dealbreaker for me.
Oddly enough, my biggest complaint is that it doesn't come with it's own power cable. I was hoping to leave the dock hooked up at home, and be able to pack the (INCREDIBLY SHORT) A500 power adapter in my bag for when I go out. Looks like it's back to eBay for another...
Excuse my off-topic mini rant. The teardown is appreciated. Curious if you ever did find anything with the USB pins.
I've read there are 2 versions of this docking station, one with HDMI and another without. It seems a lot of sellers are advertising the HDMI version but when people receive it, they get the non-HDMI version instead. Seems it's a hit or miss if you buy it online, probably safer to buy it from a brick & motar store so you can verify which version you're actually getting.
Sorry for off-topic too, just wanted to warn those that are thinking of getting this docking station
Nice tear-down btw.
Any idea what the part number for the connector itself is ? I am interested in a custom dock setup and all I am concerned about its power, however I need to find the mating connector to integrate into it.
Any info is appreciated!
Jeff
Quality of the photo surprised me !
So, any more info on this? I am putting an a100 in my dash, and I would like to use the dock connector at some point. For now I'll just run the power and audio through their ports I guess, but I would like to simplify the install at some point.
If these things suck so much, hopefully the price will drop soon, and I'll feel comfortable buying one to take apart for experimenting myself.
Thanks!
endoracing said:
Any idea what the part number for the connector itself is ? I am interested in a custom dock setup and all I am concerned about its power, however I need to find the mating connector to integrate into it.
Any info is appreciated!
Jeff
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
There aren't any identifiable markings however I think I found the right connector by checking some of the vendors who make 'em. I'm almost positive the connector is: JAE - DD2 Series
This means that there's also a cable variant of the dock side connector, cool eh?
I have not measured the connector to see if the dimensions are correct but the pitch, count, offset appearance and overall appearance are perfect matches. Even the slits cut into the top of the tablet-side connector match what's in the drawings. Still not a guarantee, but good enough for me to buy a couple to see if they match.
Here are the digikey parts:
PCB connector - $7.67 in singles
Cable connector - $10.67 in singles
Acer make two docking station models:
LC.DCK0A.001 without hdmi http://www.aceronline.es/shop/docking-station-para-acer-iconia-tab-a500a100-lcdck0a001-p-3786.html
LC.DCK0A.002 with hdmi http://www.aceronline.es/shop/docking-station-para-acer-iconia-tab-a500a100-lcdck0a002-p-3787.html
HDJ80 said:
Acer make two docking station models:
LC.DCK0A.001 without hdmi
LC.DCK0A.002 with hdmi
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Perfect information. It seems that the 002 (HDMI) version has not been released in the US. It is not available on Acer's US site, nor do any of the US based online or B&M stores have it.
I'm definitely eager to see how this turns out. I'd love to know what each of the pins definitely is.
One assumes that the HDMI version is only required for the A100 series as the A500 already has full HDMI built in. Would the HDMI circuitry even work with an A500 in the dock? In fact, can you actually use the docks at all mismatched to the Iconia for which they were intended?
zardoz99 said:
One assumes that the HDMI version is only required for the A100 series as the A500 already has full HDMI built in. Would the HDMI circuitry even work with an A500 in the dock? In fact, can you actually use the docks at all mismatched to the Iconia for which they were intended?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I wouldn't assume that at all... docs are designed to be left in place... so the purpose for the hdmi on the doc is so that you can keep it connected to your display all the time and not have to worry about plugging in the cable and the power... etc. where the doc satisfies both those needs. And I believe.. the hdmi doc for the a500 was available some time before the a100 was even released. (chk)
loialotter said:
Here are the digikey parts:
PCB connector - $7.67 in singles
Cable connector - $10.67 in singles
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks loialotter.
What's your confidence that pin 30-35 is actually 12V? Is is obvious (direct connection to the power port on the docking station)?
I will be buying one of those connectors (making a car dock) and want to be sure I won't be frying anything.
I will confirm if the connector fits and works in the A500 once I get the connector.
outsider787 said:
Thanks loialotter.
What's your confidence that pin 30-35 is actually 12V? Is is obvious (direct connection to the power port on the docking station)?
I will be buying one of those connectors (making a car dock) and want to be sure I won't be frying anything.
I will confirm if the connector fits and works in the A500 once I get the connector.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It's direct connectivity between +12v on the power jack and pins 30-35 on the zebra cable. These are not the same numbers on the connector itself.
If you look on SJ100278.pdf (digikey has link to drawing) the pin numbers are there. Note that the connector is wider at the top (notches near 21 and 40 on the side guides if that makes sence).
Pin 18,19 and 20 are +12V. There's no block of GND pins like I was expecting, instead GND is connected to 3, 6, 21, 24, 27, 30, and the connector shield. Due to the pattern of the gnd contacts, i'm guessing they're the shielding ones for HDMI. The connector is rated for 1A power per pin which means you need to use at minimum 2 of them.
I still haven't seen anything resembling USB and noticed that the tablet only uses a 20 pin zebra cable to the connector board (power included though they may pass GND through the case).
Now that I have my proper electronics desk at least partly set up, I can look further into the connector.
outsider787 said:
Thanks loialotter.
What's your confidence that pin 30-35 is actually 12V? Is is obvious (direct connection to the power port on the docking station)?
I will be buying one of those connectors (making a car dock) and want to be sure I won't be frying anything.
I will confirm if the connector fits and works in the A500 once I get the connector.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It's direct connectivity between +12v on the power jack and pins 30-35 on the zebra cable. These are not the same numbers on the connector itself.
If you look on SJ100278.pdf (digikey has link to drawing) the pin numbers are there. Note that the connector is wider at the top (notches near 21 and 40 on the side guides if that makes sence).
Pin 18,19 and 20 are +12V. There's no block of GND pins like I was expecting, instead GND is connected to 3, 6, 21, 24, 27, 30, and the connector shield. Due to the pattern of the gnd contacts, i'm guessing they're the shielding ones for HDMI. The connector is rated for 1A power per pin which means you need to use at minimum 2 of them.
I still haven't seen anything resembling USB and noticed that the tablet only uses a 20 pin zebra cable to the connector board (power included though they may pass GND through the case).
Now that I have my proper electronics desk at least partly set up, I can look further into the connector.
Every now and then you find things that make you just exclaim WTF at the top of your lungs.
The dock connector board located in the tablet does not appear to have HDMI signals on it. The zebra cable between it and the mainboard has 20 pins. 17-20 are +12V, 12-15 are GND. I'm having troubles doing continuity tests between any of the HDMI signal pairs and the other pins on the internal connector.
Bad news on the USB front, there is no 5V and all the USB pins internal to the tablet float at 0.067V disconnected and I don't see similar levels on any of the pins.
It's looking more and more like the dock was designed for a completely different product. Can someone over where the HDMI capable docks are available check their tablet internals and see if the connector board is any different. Alternatively can someone test one of the HDMI docks to see if it even works with their tablets.
I'm working through the tablet side right now, I'll take some pictures and document my findings in a little bit here.
------- New info:
This is the dock pinout as seen by the tablet (other devices may have different pins connected)
1-10 no connection
11 - unknown - traced to Q9 near IR connector on dock but unable to find past there (2v from tablet)
12 no connection
13 - audio connect of some sort - appears to be connected to left channel (after capacitor) through a 1k resistor
14 - Right audio - decoupled with 100uF
15 - Left audio - decoupled with 100uF like right channel
16 - Audio ground - not connected to main ground
17 no connection
18-20 +12V
21-30 HDMI - NO signals connected except GND at 21,24,27,30
31 - unknown - 3.3v from tablet
32 - TXD pin on 8052 through a level converter
33 - RXD pin on 8052 through a level converter
34 - unknown - 0v - 3.3v when dock unpowered but tablet connected so this may be a dock detection
35 - connected to 33 on tablet side
36 - connected to 32 on tablet side
37-40 no connection
That being said - anyone wana mod their tablets? I was thinking adding a tiny USB hub in where the USB cable runs and make a new dock connector that has USB on it (taking over for the stupid serial pins maybe). Would need a new series of docks (or mod boards for the docks)... maybe a silly idea though
----
Oh, also, is there anyone even interested in me reverse-engineering the serial protocol used for the IR control? I can probably do so with some time but it'll require me to reformat my tablet to factory as none of the other ones seem to support the dock.
:facepalm:. I bet they designed this port, initially, for their own proprietary means in a lab/repair environment, and said "Ya know, if we're gonna have this ugly port on the thing, may as well find something that the consumers would be able to use this for", thus coming up with the dock and only for syncing...
Acer UK store( http://store.acer.com/store/aceremea/en_GB/list/parentCategoryID.55934900/categoryID.56077100 ) claims that the HDMI version of the dock is only for the A100/A101 while the non-HDMI is only for A500/A501.
Power up tablet throught dock port
Anyone knows if it's possible to send a signal to power up (as if you push the power button) to power up the tablet?
I know that they have a powerbutton on the remote but i don't know how to do it to start it.
Thanks!
My goal is to not bring the A500 charger with me at all when I travel.
I just bought a refurbished iGo 90W charger at Fry's. I know if the correct tip was obtained it has plenty of juice to charge the tablet, but I'd rather use a USB solution and not hog a laptop charging port.
To accompany the iGo adapter, I'm thinking of purchasing a AC to multi-port USB adapter from monoprice.com (details below).
So although I'd have some USB to micro USB charging cables for cell phone, hotspot, gps, etc., (they have 1.5ft on monoprice.com), I will very much lighten my electronics charger and related cords load (and finally, charge the A500)
iGo Tip:
I have an ongoing Support Request with iGo regarding a tip for my A500 tablet. - I can update the thread when they respond. My charger uses the 700 series tips, it's the "slim" charger.
USB to Barrel Connector / Barrel Connector Details:
I'm not sure what the size of the barrel on the adapter is for the A500?. presumably this can't be too uncommon. On Amazon.com search for "usb to micro barrel" and tons of cables pop-up.
They have this USB AC adapter on monoprice.com (Product ID 8856 / http://www.monoprice.com/products/p...=10851&cs_id=1085102&p_id=8856&seq=1&format=2) that supplies a 2A charge to a single USB port designed for an iPad. I gotta think if I get the right USB to Barrel Connector cable it would charge the A500 well. I'm pretty sure a standard PC USB 2.0 spec port doesn't putout enough juice?
Any thoughts would be very much appreciated. I tried to comb the forum pretty exhaustively and I try and stay up to date anyway, so I'm not sure this information is really out there anywhere. I did notice the AC adapter thread http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=1856752, good news there!
-kg
Sorry to say: forget about it. USB spec is 5V 0.5A (most hubs allow up to 1A these days); Even if you had a way to step up the amps to the required 18W (that's 3.6A if you do the math), the tab still expects you to use 12V 1.5A... So you'd probably fry your tab. Your only solution thus would be a transformer 5V 3.6A -> 12V 1.5A. Now, I haven't checked this but I don't expect anything like this even exists and even if it does, it's probably so large you might just as well take the charger with you.
BTW: My measurements say the connector has a 3mm outside diameter and .75mm inside diameter. So if you can make your charger output 12V you're golden, as amps will be determined by the tab anyway. 90W means anything significantly above will trigger a fuse and shut the charger down -- or make it go up in smoke (possibly even blow up) if there's no fuse (if it's CE/FCC approved, it has one)...
haag498 said:
Sorry to say: forget about it. USB spec is 5V 0.5A (most hubs allow up to 1A these days); Even if you had a way to step up the amps to the required 18W (that's 3.6A if you do the math), the tab still expects you to use 12V 1.5A... So you'd probably fry your tab. Your only solution thus would be a transformer 5V 3.6A -> 12V 1.5A. Now, I haven't checked this but I don't expect anything like this even exists and even if it does, it's probably so large you might just as well take the charger with you.
BTW: My measurements say the connector has a 3mm outside diameter and .75mm inside diameter. So if you can make your charger output 12V you're golden, as amps will be determined by the tab anyway. 90W means anything significantly above will trigger a fuse and shut the charger down -- or make it go up in smoke (possibly even blow up) if there's no fuse (if it's CE/FCC approved, it has one)...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks for the reply. So it seems the iGo tip is certainly still a possibility, i'm still waiting on them to get back to me.
While I am certainly not an electrician, I did find a thread here: Sorry it is on another forum and I don't have enough posts yet... It is titled Is "there a car charger for the A500" on androidtablets.net
They indicate that a 2000mA car charger from amazon works to charge the tab: Search for B0042X8XOQ on amazon.
Correct me if I'm wrong, but if that 2000mA charger charges the tab, wouldn't the proposed USB corded solution (with special 2-2.1A port) also work?
Thanks again!
hi folks,
i would to like to build a micro usb hub.
e.g. 1 male connector and 2 female connector.
does anybody have experience in micro usb to stabilize the voltage and current?
thanx
KindsKoPP said:
hi folks,
i would to like to build a micro usb hub.
e.g. 1 male connector and 2 female connector.
does anybody have experience in micro usb to stabilize the voltage and current?
thanx
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That would be interesting to see, I think your gonna need drivers for that as well because your gonna need a switch to cycle back and forth on what connector your using, and thats gonna be hard to do from scratch. I was contemplating doing something similar to that but wound up at a dead end. If you figure it out let me know.
it won´t need a driver. i want to build as a host hub. but the current is too low i think, so it is difficult to stabilizise the current,,
mbm262 said:
That would be interesting to see, I think your gonna need drivers for that as well because your gonna need a switch to cycle back and forth on what connector your using, and thats gonna be hard to do from scratch. I was contemplating doing something similar to that but wound up at a dead end. If you figure it out let me know.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It's not a question of stabilizing the current.
It's supposed to be 5 volts throughout the USB spec.
If you are using a cell phone as the host, that already produces regulated 5 volts through a charge pump.
The amount of current out of a cell phone is maybe around 100 mA.
That's what you have to work with.
If it's not sufficient for what you want then you need an external power source, not a regulator.
Hubs can be power hogs.
The spec says that a hub can take up to 100 mA all by itself.
To make a micro USB you can either take an existing hub and change the connectors.
Of course since the PCB pattern will not match up you'd have to wire the connectors in discreetly.
If you really wanted to make a real job out of this, buy a hub IC for $3,
lay out a PCB, slap on a 24 MHz crystal and connectors.
???
the idea is to build an mobile hub for tablets or smartphones for plugin external devices like sd card reader or usb stick and
mouse and keybord. hub will stick in a phone and plug in the external devices. i already had tried with a keyboard and mouse with standard usb and it works. i had already build some devices with micro usb connector. so i would like to use all devices at the same time and outdoor. i try to solve the idea without a lot of adapter..
if the usb give all devices 5v and 100mA at the same time, that would be great, without an additional IC power supplier..
thats all
i found out thats not possible to use more than 2 gadgets at the same time cause of the voltage without an external power supplier. keyboard and mice work at the same time but i f u want to plug in a 3rd gadget then wont work. 1 solution could be a mobile battery with 5v connecting with the hub. or make a built in battery in the hub..
@ renate. maybe u have an suggestion?
I have a jig for measuring current consumed by USB peripherals: http://forum.xda-developers.com/showpost.php?p=30668417&postcount=26
I use USB with only low power things like a keyboard or else
with a powered hub (also back-powering the Android).
The second option is more like a docking station.
KindsKoPP said:
hi folks,
i would to like to build a micro usb hub.
e.g. 1 male connector and 2 female connector.
does anybody have experience in micro usb to stabilize the voltage and current?
thanx
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The 2 female connectors don't make much sense i think, because:
I can't think of any device you would like to connect with your phone as host that has a µusb connector..? You would need 2 additional OTG-cables in almost all cases
You would need OTG capability for security reasons: Imagine you hub is pluggend in you phone and you connect you computer to the hub too -> Data crash + 2 power sources in parallel -> risk of damage
I would use a normal tiny usb hub and only change the cable
u did not read my post above attentively or?
quote:
i had already build some devices with micro usb connector. so i would like to use all devices at the same time and outdoor. i try to solve the idea without a lot of adapter..
and the gadget are already automatically OTG. I already thought all about that before!
-schumi- said:
The 2 female connectors don't make much sense i think, because:
I can't think of any device you would like to connect with your phone as host that has a µusb connector..? You would need 2 additional OTG-cables in almost all cases
You would need OTG capability for security reasons: Imagine you hub is pluggend in you phone and you connect you computer to the hub too -> Data crash + 2 power sources in parallel -> risk of damage
I would use a normal tiny usb hub and only change the cable
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I bought a mojo w/o any accessories for around 80€. Since the power supply is also missing I'd like to have the exact dimensions of the on-board socket as well as the power specs for the supply itself. On the FCC test sheet I read something about 5.2v and 3000mA.What about the Watts? Would it be possible to power it via an iPad USB charger if i had a matching male USB to whatever dimension plug? The iPad Charger comes with 2100mA. Could anyone post the exact specs of the stock power supply? Thanks in advance!
zeyentology said:
I bought a mojo w/o any accessories for around 80€. Since the power supply is also missing I'd like to have the exact dimensions of the on-board socket as well as the power specs for the supply itself. On the FCC test sheet I read something about 5.2v and 3000mA.What about the Watts? Would it be possible to power it via an iPad USB charger if i had a matching male USB to whatever dimension plug? The iPad Charger comes with 2100mA. Could anyone post the exact specs of the stock power supply? Thanks in advance!
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Hi,
That info is correct, the wattage doesn't matter, it's what the mojo draw's and can fluctuate on load ( I think anyway).
Power supply has: +5.2 @ 3A (neg external, pos internal)
The plug dimensions, you'll have to test on your mojo , but it's a common one, found on many multi-adpter and other adapters.
Maybe call up a second hand shop, they sometimes have a box of random adapters.
If you can find a power supply with the same spec, that fits, it will work, if the -/+ are reversed you can just, cut, reverse the wires and tape it up.
Good luck.
Edit: 2100mA isn't good enough, it will work but crash on load.
Thanks for your help! I'll get an universal power supply matching these specs today.
zeyentology said:
Thanks for your help! I'll get an universal power supply matching these specs today.
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I pulled out my MOJO after letting it collect dust for a few years and can't find the power cord. I searched for hours for a replacement and then for something matching those specs but I'm really confused by them so I really need help. @zeyentology did you manage to find a power supply for yours and if you did could you send an Amazon link or anywhere else I could find one? If not can anyone tell me what exactly I need the power supply to read because the specs on my MOJO just don't line up to the power supplies I can find. Thanks anyone for any kind of help!!!
Zarathustra17 said:
I pulled out my MOJO after letting it collect dust for a few years and can't find the power cord. I searched for hours for a replacement and then for something matching those specs but I'm really confused by them so I really need help. @zeyentology did you manage to find a power supply for yours and if you did could you send an Amazon link or anywhere else I could find one? If not can anyone tell me what exactly I need the power supply to read because the specs on my MOJO just don't line up to the power supplies I can find. Thanks anyone for any kind of help!!!
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***Edit***I see in an above post the 5v3a should work. I'm still convened about the plug though. So if anyone can send a link to one they know or think will work I would really appreciate it!! Thanks again!
This is a very old thread revived not long ago and one of very few results in multiple google searches. But am posting with helpful information to complete the discussion.
A 5v supply with 2.3 amps or more will work. The MOJO lists on the sticker as 2.5 watts max which is absolutely wrong. I am currently using a power supply from a USB hub. It is old so won't bother with model numbers.
Jack size is 3.5x1.35mm. If it is needed, the depth is just shy of 8.5mm.
Here is a supply that would work.
Amazon.com: SHNITPWR 5V 3A Power Supply Adapter UL Listed DC 5V 3000mA 15W Universal Replacement Power Cord 2.5A 1.5A 1A 500mA Compatible 100~240V AC in for USB HUB, Raspberry Pi 3 4, Router,TV Box, IP Camera: Electronics
Buy SHNITPWR 5V 3A Power Supply Adapter UL Listed DC 5V 3000mA 15W Universal Replacement Power Cord 2.5A 1.5A 1A 500mA Compatible 100~240V AC in for USB HUB, Raspberry Pi 3 4, Router, TV Box, IP Camera: Power Converters - Amazon.com ✓ FREE DELIVERY possible on eligible purchases
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