Hey guys
Like many others my usb gone bust and my advent tn7 just became useless. Ive went to curries and explained about how this is a common issue but they dismissed it saying a broken charger port is my fault. I have searched several forms but still havent found any way of fixing it. Does anyone know how to get my tab to charge? Ive tried opening the tab but one side of it doesnt seem to come off. What are my options if any? Any help will be greatly appreciated. Thanks.
Abdur Desai said:
Hey guys
Like many others my usb gone bust and my advent tn7 just became useless. Ive went to curries and explained about how this is a common issue but they dismissed it saying a broken charger port is my fault. I have searched several forms but still havent found any way of fixing it. Does anyone know how to get my tab to charge? Ive tried opening the tab but one side of it doesnt seem to come off. What are my options if any? Any help will be greatly appreciated. Thanks.
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The best option would be to take it to a repair shop... it might cost you $50, but hopefully they can replace it with the right USB port (the one Nvidia used is slightly different from most micro-USB ports you see on devices, so it's not a very snug fit, hence the problem.)
I have the evga tn7 that i bought from newegg. Would they still honor my warrenty on the broken charging port even though I have my bootloader unlocked?
jon7701, I was thinking the same thing. I bought mine a couple of months ago and the charging port is being a little finicky.
share_needles said:
jon7701, I was thinking the same thing. I bought mine a couple of months ago and the charging port is being a little finicky.
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Mine has to be plugged in a certain way or it refuses to charge outright. Even when I have it in the proper way it might not charge at all but reports its charging. The strange thing is that it can still detect what type of charging method (usb or AC) im using even though it wont charge.
I was able to fix my EVGA Tegra Note 7 usb connector using a re-flow soldering station (the type that uses hot air to melt solder), and it only took about 30 minutes. If you know an electrical engineer or serious electrical design enthusiast, they may have one. The problem is caused from the solder joints on the usb connector breaking. All I had to do is re-melt the solder and the problem was fixed. You cannot use a normal soldering iron because there are other components in the way. This happens on the Tegra Note because Nvidia specified a Micro-ab type connector instead of the Micro-b connector that most phones have. This allows accidental upside down insertion to damage the connector.
All you have to do is snap the plastic case apart, carefully remove the small circuit board that has the usb connector. The solder joint appears solid, but I was able to see the crack with a microscope and a trained eye. Use hot air to melt the solder, and resemble. Now I am just careful to plug the cable in right side up. If it breaks again, I am replacing it with a Micro-b connector.
I like having a re-flow soldering station. Every hacker should have one for replacing surface mount components and more extreme hacks (like upgrading internal flash, etc.).
sorry for necroing this post but i'm having the same issue. i've thought the same as you of replacing the port with a micro b. i have only one question: is there any problem with replacing it with a micro b? or no problem at all
Digging up this old thread to post link to UK service for Nvidia Tegra Note 7 Micro USB Charging Port Repair Service,
Here:- http://www.mobiledeviceworkshop.co....o-usb-charging-port-repair-service-3080-p.asp
Charge of £29.00 all inclusive of return delivery (+£5.00 for next day delivery)..
EDIT: Think this is same part for Nvidia Tegra note 7 (ebay, £1.29).
New HP SLATE 7 HD Replacement Micro USB DC Charging Socket Port Connector
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/New-HP-SL...cab7f36&pid=100005&rk=6&rkt=6&sd=131877863523
EDIT: Some spare parts, Cherry Mobile Tegra Note 7 Spare Parts & Accessories
(Indian version Tegra note 7, presumably mostly same as Advent, but seems to have built-in internet, prices in Rupees)
https://www.maxbhi.com/cherry-mobile-tegra-note-7-spare-parts-and-accessories.html
Thanks
ad1876 said:
I was able to fix my EVGA Tegra Note 7 usb connector using a re-flow soldering station (the type that uses hot air to melt solder), and it only took about 30 minutes. If you know an electrical engineer or serious electrical design enthusiast, they may have one. The problem is caused from the solder joints on the usb connector breaking. All I had to do is re-melt the solder and the problem was fixed. You cannot use a normal soldering iron because there are other components in the way. This happens on the Tegra Note because Nvidia specified a Micro-ab type connector instead of the Micro-b connector that most phones have. This allows accidental upside down insertion to damage the connector.
All you have to do is snap the plastic case apart, carefully remove the small circuit board that has the usb connector. The solder joint appears solid, but I was able to see the crack with a microscope and a trained eye. Use hot air to melt the solder, and resemble. Now I am just careful to plug the cable in right side up. If it breaks again, I am replacing it with a Micro-b connector.
I like having a re-flow soldering station. Every hacker should have one for replacing surface mount components and more extreme hacks (like upgrading internal flash, etc.).
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Thanks a lot for your correct advise.
I had a long battle getting my Xolo Tegra Note fixed in Pune.
Xolo service center people told me that because I have down graded my tablet to KitKat, now motherboard is gone. After that I went to local mobile repair shop, he told me it's very difficult fix this as the joint are very small and soldering can damage other things as well.
After visiting a few repair shop in Pimpri market, I found a guy who did it. I found the same issue of minor crack which he found using multiple magnifying glasses.
It's better to visit a good repair shop not a small one as the issue won't be visible without magnifying glasses.
Let me know if anyone wants to get it fixed in India, Pune. I will share the mobile shop address.
Related
Hi,
I disassembled my N1 for changing the main flex cable (cutted power button) and in the disassembling procedure I noticed that one of the SMD components on the motherboard was de-soldered or not correctly soldered (twisted). I re-accommodated with a pair of tweezers and it did not hang loose (yet!).
What kind of function does this SMD do? Can I expect the phone to work?
I have experience with soldering iron but think this is too small for me.
I can't test it right now because my new main flex has not arrived yet.
Maybe you can solder it with an oven for CMS ?
firewave said:
Maybe you can solder it with an oven for CMS ?
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I'm not very familiar with oven soldering; dunno if I will kill other components or If i need some kind of flux.
Also a heat gun would do the work but probably desolder other components.
I broke off a couple of the smd components right next to that connector (the screen connection) they effect color on the screen. Mine showed only red after I broke 2. It was usable but not pretty.
Sent from my HTC Desire using Tapatalk
_Dennis_ said:
I broke off a couple of the smd components right next to that connector (the screen connection) they effect color on the screen. Mine showed only red after I broke 2. It was usable but not pretty.
Sent from my HTC Desire using Tapatalk
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Thanks for your answer.
You broke those very same components?
As soon as I get my main flex i will try it and see if it report problems. It probably will as that component is there for something.
You might be able to re-flow it with a heat gun.
Rusty! said:
You might be able to re-flow it with a heat gun.
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Thanks for your answer.
Actually I'm looking for a chinese reflow station with a hot air gun with a tiny nozzle. Probably will do the work but...
Should I use some kind of flux? Any recommendations? Never done a hot air reflow.
Looks like the same but hard to tell in the pics. I can't really see on my phone.
Sent from my HTC Desire using Tapatalk
that is a set of inline resistors, meaning it is quite a few connections, the best way is to use some flux from a needle and a soldering iron with a small tip,you could use a hot air machine but on a fully assembled board i would not recommend it.. flux is needed but you may be able to get away with a large soldering iron.
My advice would be to pay someone to fix it.. that way if they mess up ya get a new phone
Find someone with a reflow air knife, anyone who does SMT work would have one. It'd take 5 seconds to put that RP back on as long as you didn't break any of the pads doing whatever it is that you did that caused you to break it. Yikes.
May i ask you where u got the power cable? I need one too, how much was it? And is it hard to replace?
N1
I bought it on www.aliexpress.com
It was around USD$45.
I still don't receive it, as soon as I recive it I will report if the phone works and if it is an easy repair.
Best Regards.
The phone it's not turning on.
I tried it disassembled with the new main flex cable, motherboard and only lcd conencted.
Nothing happened when I press the power button.
The only sign of life is the ambar led that turns on when you connect the charger.
The tiny little SMD part fell off the mother board so it is completly unsoldered. Could this be the cause of not turning at all?
Looking forward to your answers.
Yes, if a single component is missing or even has a bridge in the solder, it could cause complete failure. There is a reason for it being there. If it were me, I would try to resolder it. Grab an iron and some wick and get what you can off of the board. Then try to reflow the part back on. If it works, great. If not, you still have a nice looking paperweight.
Well, I soldered the little SMD back with a soldering/hot air station but the motherboard still don't turn on.
It was working before, maybe I'm doing something wrong.
Thanks for your support.
Just in case someone finds this useful. I spent several hours searching and couldn't find this, so I had to figure it out myself!
For fun I bought a broken Evo 4g on Craigslist. It's USB port was violently ripped off, taking with it at least one layer of PCB substrate. Using a multimeter, I was able to find some new places to solder to. I attached some 30AWG wire and epoxied on a new port, and the phone is good to go!
The D+/D- goes to what appears to be a dual package 4 ohm resistor. I messed up a couple times trying to solder it and one of the resistors stopped working, so I ended up just removing the resistors and soldering to the pads on the other side. The resistors aren't important, and USB works just fine.
Damn bro, slightly impressive, my hardware skills are beyond lacking.
This is why you need a temperature-controlled soldering iron, SMT components are very sensitive to heat since they don't have leads to dissipate any of it.
I'm not sure what those resistors were there for, but I wonder if you could pull some numbers off and cross them to someone from DigiKey. Given how manufacturers pinch every penny, I can't see them throwing on cost if it's unnecessary.
But then again, if it works, I guess that's good enough too haha.
I've given serious thought to starting a small business buying and repairing phones, seeing how easily most consumers give up on them when even the simplest repairs are needed.
Oh don't worry, I had a temperature controlled iron. The issue was that I had a cup of coffee an hour before attempting to solder.
We are talking about a 1mm square component, so no part number. A reference USB circuit design has 20-30 ohm resistors in series with the D+ and D- lines before they run into the USB transceiver (built into the snapdragon CPU), so I'm not sure why there were these 4 ohm diddles. Maybe they were the cheapest. The phone probably won't survive a lightning strike now, or the USB won't work if there are sunspots. USB is pretty robust.
If you have prior knowledge of the circuits, then I can see an exotic repair business being successful. Not having access to the design, though, I spent way more time than it was worth fixing the USB port. It was more of a fun after-work activity. The previous owner also abused it rather heavily, so even though I got it functioning again I would feel bad trying to resell it for much more than what I paid for it!
I'm trying to mount a powermat inside a Galaxy S2 phone to allow wireless charging.
Unfortunately the logic circuit of the S2 insists that the charging of the S2 is routed via the USB connector else the charging isn't detected leading to potential overcharge situations.
Therefore I'm looking for the smallest Micro USB connector available (height wise) that I can wire the powermat wires to. I'd prefer the Micro USB connector to come with a rubberised cover as I use the Case Mate Tough cases for the phone so a connector that was almost flush with that case and also rubberised would be perfect.
I'm in the UK so UK sourcing would be preferable but all suggestions appreciated.
Thanks in advance.
Anyone have any ideas?
You can look at buying some just raw connectors like
http://www.newark.com/fci/10104109-...ce-mount/dp/82R7423?in_merch=Popular Products
Or do some research and find some other ones with different mounting options. The thing is it is hard to get much smaller.
http://www.newark.com/jsp/search/br...etricAttributeId=&prevNValues=422+2203+202174
Can't you wire it from the inside? By soldering directly to the pins of mUSB connector on the mainboard?
I hadn't thought of that....not sure my soldering skills are good enough either given how small the components we'd be dealing with here.
That is an option but if you don't have the tools I wouldn't mess with it. Those boards are dense and unless you have a fine enough tip it is going to be hard to make a good connection.
pinsb said:
I hadn't thought of that....not sure my soldering skills are good enough either given how small the components we'd be dealing with here.
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Well I can tell you from experience that they are small. ~0.25mm. Look at a how big a mm is on a ruler and cut that into 1/42 and that's what you are looking to solder to. You would need some fine wire that is shielded so it doesn't short and it requires some solid soldering skills.
I used to do this for a living. You could call up some local jewelers or repair shops and see if they have a laser welder. Ask them if they do custom work. Though it would have to be a relatively big place though, as those machines runs thousands of dollars. I worked for Jostens.
Hi pinsb,
Did you ever find anything? I am looking for the same thing for a slightly different purpose. I want to put a usb circuit inside an enclosure with the phone and don't want to have the connector sticking out the side.
I'm not sure if my title makes any sense, so I will further explain here. I had to repair my charging port, while doing so I must have damaged the clip that the battery plugs into. It looks like a pin or two (that is soldered to the mobo) is a bit loose. My phone does not charge but will function when plugged in. I bought a replacement battery thinking I damaged that, when going to install I noticed the loose pins. Went through with the install anyway, and phone acts the same.
Is there any hope for my to resolder the pins back to the mobo? I want to get some input before I buy a soldering gun etc.
A1will said:
I'm not sure if my title makes any sense, so I will further explain here. I had to repair my charging port, while doing so I must have damaged the clip that the battery plugs into. It looks like a pin or two (that is soldered to the mobo) is a bit loose. My phone does not charge but will function when plugged in. I bought a replacement battery thinking I damaged that, when going to install I noticed the loose pins. Went through with the install anyway, and phone acts the same.
Is there any hope for my to resolder the pins back to the mobo? I want to get some input before I buy a soldering gun etc.
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Resoldering battery connectors is normally a very difficult job, best to take it to someone experienced. If the solder pad is gone too you'll definitely need a professional.
DrFredPhD said:
Resoldering battery connectors is normally a very difficult job, best to take it to someone experienced. If the solder pad is gone too you'll definitely need a professional.
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What makes it so difficult?
Or by me asking do I show that I'm in over my head? lol
How much force would I need to exert for the connector to break? I'm asking this because I've heard that the connector isn't replaceable without replacing the entire motherboard, and I'm a bit paranoid about it breaking:silly:. Thanks in advance!
p7810456 said:
How much force would I need to exert for the connector to break? I'm asking this because I've heard that the connector isn't replaceable without replacing the entire motherboard, and I'm a bit paranoid about it breaking:silly:. Thanks in advance!
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Owned g3, g4 and now v20. Totally normal to ask about this. Even if you protect your phones with cases and tempered glasses, two primary weak spots remain: motherboard battery contacts wearing out and breaking off (happened to me on my G4) and USB-C troubles. As both the battery connector and the USB-C port are soldered onto the motherboard, even if your phone is under warranty, the only fix is installing a new motherboard, losing the data (back up your data often!) As I was explained in the service center, taking the parts off the motherboard and soldering the new ones back on (that's only if you have a donor motherboard or parts to begin with) results in heating the surrounding circuitry area to the temps of up to 400c, risking damaging the metal tracks (or ripping the seating metal pucks for the parts off the board altogether on removal).
Since the g4 mishap, my solution for effectively protecting the USB port from wear, pulling and yanking damage is the permanent (but easily removable) magnetic USB-C insert that lives in your phone all the time and has magnetic studs on the outside plane that the charging cord snaps to. There are several manufacturers of those on Amazon, none are perfect but any of them is better than using your port "raw" daily. WZKEN makes tangle-free USB-C cords with strong contact between the insert and the cord. The cords (at least in my case) support Qualcomm quick charge 2. When connected through a WZKEN cord, my Anker QC2 charger plug changes light from blue to green to indicate QC and my phone notifies me QC is on, so the QC handshake works as expected.
One thing though if you go the magnetic rout - order MORE inserts than cords, if your USB-C port is loose, the inserts might fall out every once in a while, you'll lose them. Also I haven't seen any magnetic cords with light indicators that change color when QC kicks in, all the light shows is that there's electricity in the port on the wall charger that your cord is connected to. Also, WZKEN cord heads snap to the inserts the right side up only, not on either side.
Whatever the quirks, beats the every day pounding that USB-C ports take by far, especially knowing v20 doesn't charge wirelessly! Inserts are small enough to fit into all port cutouts on all cases I have, so no problem there, either.
The solution is so simple that I charge most of the micro-USB and USB-C devices in my house this way.
p7810456 said:
How much force would I need to exert for the connector to break? I'm asking this because I've heard that the connector isn't replaceable without replacing the entire motherboard, and I'm a bit paranoid about it breaking:silly:. Thanks in advance!
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Very very hard.
Sent from my LG V20 using XDA Labs