Just in case someone finds this useful. I spent several hours searching and couldn't find this, so I had to figure it out myself!
For fun I bought a broken Evo 4g on Craigslist. It's USB port was violently ripped off, taking with it at least one layer of PCB substrate. Using a multimeter, I was able to find some new places to solder to. I attached some 30AWG wire and epoxied on a new port, and the phone is good to go!
The D+/D- goes to what appears to be a dual package 4 ohm resistor. I messed up a couple times trying to solder it and one of the resistors stopped working, so I ended up just removing the resistors and soldering to the pads on the other side. The resistors aren't important, and USB works just fine.
Damn bro, slightly impressive, my hardware skills are beyond lacking.
This is why you need a temperature-controlled soldering iron, SMT components are very sensitive to heat since they don't have leads to dissipate any of it.
I'm not sure what those resistors were there for, but I wonder if you could pull some numbers off and cross them to someone from DigiKey. Given how manufacturers pinch every penny, I can't see them throwing on cost if it's unnecessary.
But then again, if it works, I guess that's good enough too haha.
I've given serious thought to starting a small business buying and repairing phones, seeing how easily most consumers give up on them when even the simplest repairs are needed.
Oh don't worry, I had a temperature controlled iron. The issue was that I had a cup of coffee an hour before attempting to solder.
We are talking about a 1mm square component, so no part number. A reference USB circuit design has 20-30 ohm resistors in series with the D+ and D- lines before they run into the USB transceiver (built into the snapdragon CPU), so I'm not sure why there were these 4 ohm diddles. Maybe they were the cheapest. The phone probably won't survive a lightning strike now, or the USB won't work if there are sunspots. USB is pretty robust.
If you have prior knowledge of the circuits, then I can see an exotic repair business being successful. Not having access to the design, though, I spent way more time than it was worth fixing the USB port. It was more of a fun after-work activity. The previous owner also abused it rather heavily, so even though I got it functioning again I would feel bad trying to resell it for much more than what I paid for it!
Related
Greetings one and all. Am looking for two main CPU boards for a HTC Blackstone (the board with the USB socket on it). Had a scout around on ebay and could only find the SIM and Micro SD assembly. Interestingly the charge LED doesn't come on but have checked the battery with a multimeter and it's definitely receiving a charge. Other thing I'm gonna try is a SMD hot air station and reflow the main ICs under the RF shields to see if it's a dodgy solder joint somewhere. But if anyones got these boards surplus to requirements then I'd be interested. Thanks
fossberry said:
Greetings one and all. Am looking for two main CPU boards for a HTC Blackstone (the board with the USB socket on it). Had a scout around on ebay and could only find the SIM and Micro SD assembly. Interestingly the charge LED doesn't come on but have checked the battery with a multimeter and it's definitely receiving a charge. Other thing I'm gonna try is a SMD hot air station and reflow the main ICs under the RF shields to see if it's a dodgy solder joint somewhere. But if anyones got these boards surplus to requirements then I'd be interested. Thanks
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
you can buy it from http://www.htcrepairparts.com/motherboard-for-htc-touch-hd-p-3213.html
nice find!
but just as i suspected a single spare part is more expensive than buying an entire used blackstone from ebay. the 2nd hand price of the device dropped to 80-150$ (depending on the condition and accessories) over the last 6 months, with the progressing "death" of winmo.
if i were you, i would either get a 2nd battery and external charger for 20$ to bypass the usb port, get a used blackstone as a source for all kinds of spare parts or get a new device altogether, depending on how much money you are willing to spend and how much you like the blackstone, but that single spare part for 170$ is just ridiculously overpriced.
I'm trying to mount a powermat inside a Galaxy S2 phone to allow wireless charging.
Unfortunately the logic circuit of the S2 insists that the charging of the S2 is routed via the USB connector else the charging isn't detected leading to potential overcharge situations.
Therefore I'm looking for the smallest Micro USB connector available (height wise) that I can wire the powermat wires to. I'd prefer the Micro USB connector to come with a rubberised cover as I use the Case Mate Tough cases for the phone so a connector that was almost flush with that case and also rubberised would be perfect.
I'm in the UK so UK sourcing would be preferable but all suggestions appreciated.
Thanks in advance.
Anyone have any ideas?
You can look at buying some just raw connectors like
http://www.newark.com/fci/10104109-...ce-mount/dp/82R7423?in_merch=Popular Products
Or do some research and find some other ones with different mounting options. The thing is it is hard to get much smaller.
http://www.newark.com/jsp/search/br...etricAttributeId=&prevNValues=422+2203+202174
Can't you wire it from the inside? By soldering directly to the pins of mUSB connector on the mainboard?
I hadn't thought of that....not sure my soldering skills are good enough either given how small the components we'd be dealing with here.
That is an option but if you don't have the tools I wouldn't mess with it. Those boards are dense and unless you have a fine enough tip it is going to be hard to make a good connection.
pinsb said:
I hadn't thought of that....not sure my soldering skills are good enough either given how small the components we'd be dealing with here.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Well I can tell you from experience that they are small. ~0.25mm. Look at a how big a mm is on a ruler and cut that into 1/42 and that's what you are looking to solder to. You would need some fine wire that is shielded so it doesn't short and it requires some solid soldering skills.
I used to do this for a living. You could call up some local jewelers or repair shops and see if they have a laser welder. Ask them if they do custom work. Though it would have to be a relatively big place though, as those machines runs thousands of dollars. I worked for Jostens.
Hi pinsb,
Did you ever find anything? I am looking for the same thing for a slightly different purpose. I want to put a usb circuit inside an enclosure with the phone and don't want to have the connector sticking out the side.
Hey guys
Like many others my usb gone bust and my advent tn7 just became useless. Ive went to curries and explained about how this is a common issue but they dismissed it saying a broken charger port is my fault. I have searched several forms but still havent found any way of fixing it. Does anyone know how to get my tab to charge? Ive tried opening the tab but one side of it doesnt seem to come off. What are my options if any? Any help will be greatly appreciated. Thanks.
Abdur Desai said:
Hey guys
Like many others my usb gone bust and my advent tn7 just became useless. Ive went to curries and explained about how this is a common issue but they dismissed it saying a broken charger port is my fault. I have searched several forms but still havent found any way of fixing it. Does anyone know how to get my tab to charge? Ive tried opening the tab but one side of it doesnt seem to come off. What are my options if any? Any help will be greatly appreciated. Thanks.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The best option would be to take it to a repair shop... it might cost you $50, but hopefully they can replace it with the right USB port (the one Nvidia used is slightly different from most micro-USB ports you see on devices, so it's not a very snug fit, hence the problem.)
I have the evga tn7 that i bought from newegg. Would they still honor my warrenty on the broken charging port even though I have my bootloader unlocked?
jon7701, I was thinking the same thing. I bought mine a couple of months ago and the charging port is being a little finicky.
share_needles said:
jon7701, I was thinking the same thing. I bought mine a couple of months ago and the charging port is being a little finicky.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Mine has to be plugged in a certain way or it refuses to charge outright. Even when I have it in the proper way it might not charge at all but reports its charging. The strange thing is that it can still detect what type of charging method (usb or AC) im using even though it wont charge.
I was able to fix my EVGA Tegra Note 7 usb connector using a re-flow soldering station (the type that uses hot air to melt solder), and it only took about 30 minutes. If you know an electrical engineer or serious electrical design enthusiast, they may have one. The problem is caused from the solder joints on the usb connector breaking. All I had to do is re-melt the solder and the problem was fixed. You cannot use a normal soldering iron because there are other components in the way. This happens on the Tegra Note because Nvidia specified a Micro-ab type connector instead of the Micro-b connector that most phones have. This allows accidental upside down insertion to damage the connector.
All you have to do is snap the plastic case apart, carefully remove the small circuit board that has the usb connector. The solder joint appears solid, but I was able to see the crack with a microscope and a trained eye. Use hot air to melt the solder, and resemble. Now I am just careful to plug the cable in right side up. If it breaks again, I am replacing it with a Micro-b connector.
I like having a re-flow soldering station. Every hacker should have one for replacing surface mount components and more extreme hacks (like upgrading internal flash, etc.).
sorry for necroing this post but i'm having the same issue. i've thought the same as you of replacing the port with a micro b. i have only one question: is there any problem with replacing it with a micro b? or no problem at all
Digging up this old thread to post link to UK service for Nvidia Tegra Note 7 Micro USB Charging Port Repair Service,
Here:- http://www.mobiledeviceworkshop.co....o-usb-charging-port-repair-service-3080-p.asp
Charge of £29.00 all inclusive of return delivery (+£5.00 for next day delivery)..
EDIT: Think this is same part for Nvidia Tegra note 7 (ebay, £1.29).
New HP SLATE 7 HD Replacement Micro USB DC Charging Socket Port Connector
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/New-HP-SL...cab7f36&pid=100005&rk=6&rkt=6&sd=131877863523
EDIT: Some spare parts, Cherry Mobile Tegra Note 7 Spare Parts & Accessories
(Indian version Tegra note 7, presumably mostly same as Advent, but seems to have built-in internet, prices in Rupees)
https://www.maxbhi.com/cherry-mobile-tegra-note-7-spare-parts-and-accessories.html
Thanks
ad1876 said:
I was able to fix my EVGA Tegra Note 7 usb connector using a re-flow soldering station (the type that uses hot air to melt solder), and it only took about 30 minutes. If you know an electrical engineer or serious electrical design enthusiast, they may have one. The problem is caused from the solder joints on the usb connector breaking. All I had to do is re-melt the solder and the problem was fixed. You cannot use a normal soldering iron because there are other components in the way. This happens on the Tegra Note because Nvidia specified a Micro-ab type connector instead of the Micro-b connector that most phones have. This allows accidental upside down insertion to damage the connector.
All you have to do is snap the plastic case apart, carefully remove the small circuit board that has the usb connector. The solder joint appears solid, but I was able to see the crack with a microscope and a trained eye. Use hot air to melt the solder, and resemble. Now I am just careful to plug the cable in right side up. If it breaks again, I am replacing it with a Micro-b connector.
I like having a re-flow soldering station. Every hacker should have one for replacing surface mount components and more extreme hacks (like upgrading internal flash, etc.).
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks a lot for your correct advise.
I had a long battle getting my Xolo Tegra Note fixed in Pune.
Xolo service center people told me that because I have down graded my tablet to KitKat, now motherboard is gone. After that I went to local mobile repair shop, he told me it's very difficult fix this as the joint are very small and soldering can damage other things as well.
After visiting a few repair shop in Pimpri market, I found a guy who did it. I found the same issue of minor crack which he found using multiple magnifying glasses.
It's better to visit a good repair shop not a small one as the issue won't be visible without magnifying glasses.
Let me know if anyone wants to get it fixed in India, Pune. I will share the mobile shop address.
I will be using this thread to track my upgrade of the amplifier chip on the Intel Sofia based Joying units.
I chose the Pioneer PA2030A but apparently you can also use the TDA7850 chip.
To quote @kampfschachtel:
If your speakers are 4 ohm I would use the Pioneer as it has more power at 4 ohm, if you have 2 ohm speakers (like eg a lot of the BMW ones) then the TDA7850 is your choice. Be aware you get orginals as they are lot low quality clones on the market.
Joying radio and new Pioneer PA2030A chip
You can see in the back where the amp chip is anchored in the metal frame with two screws. The metal frame provides some cooling.
First step: take unit apart using the 2 screws - 1 on each side. At this step, say goodbye to your warranty!
1 more screws on the back and then you can take the top cover off
Behold! The internals!
Slide up the 2 USB cables from the frame and carefully disconnect the single USB cable from the board, the ribbon cable from the motherboard (which takes video and touch input to the screen) and then on the back, unscrew the GPS antenna from the frame. The other bundle of mic, radio antenna and USB cable just keep as is, as it's more work to untangle the wires.
NOTE! The ribbon cable uses a slide-lock to keep the cable in. Carefully pull the brown slider back and then remove the ribbon from the slot. Don't force it or you may damage it and will need to get a new ribbon.
Your can see the cables that were removed.
Next remove the following 4 screws and also the smaller 2 screws holding the amp chip to the frame
You can see the metal bracket that holds the amp chip falls off. Notice in the back, that the amp chip is held to the frame with some thermal paste. We'll need some more of that later when the chip is replaced.
Remove 2 more bolts that hold the motherboard - on the corners. 1 you can see where my screwdriver is resting.
Carefully pry out the board from the case.
You can see the chip we'll replace and the solders in the back that we'll have to work with.
NOTE: interesting marking on the board - PX3-MAIN. Other folks might know more on this, but did they re-use the main host board from their other stereos with minor modifications? Looks like it.
Next step - warm up the solder gun!
Time to go find my solder gun... dammit! Where did I put it? Haha!
You're going to want to pay attention to how high the chip sits on the board as the new one will have to be at a similar height to bolt back to the metal frame.
---removed---
Another side note... It looks like the SD card reader board has space for another SD card reader slot. If one wants dual SD card, maybe another soldering project down the line? The metal frame is also pre-cut for the second slot so it would be an easy project!
Making slow progress on removing the chip. A nice solder sucker would be great right now!
It looks easy, but that soldering looks the most difficult part of the job, how can you loose it with so many pins on the board, and i suppose you can do that by every chinese android radio?
Flemischguy said:
It looks easy, but that soldering looks the most difficult part of the job, how can you loose it with so many pins on the board, and i suppose you can do that by every chinese android radio?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You take your time Slowly heat up pins and you go around to each pin... over and over again.
bogdi1988 said:
You take your time Slowly heat up pins and you go around to each pin... over and over again.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Do you use a classic soldering on electric? I think that i would use a soldering on gas, which is instantly hot and blow hot air over the pins (and faster)
Just a thought
So I got the chip soldered. Ran a quick test and got audio, but the channels are all over the place. Gotta trace all my solders to make sure I didn't mess up anything.
Flemischguy said:
Do you use a classic soldering on electric? I think that i would use a soldering on gas, which is instantly hot and blow hot air over the pins (and faster)
Just a thought
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yea, I did use a classic one.
I might have to re-do all solders.
Well, until I figure out my solder stuff... feedback on what I was able to test as it was.
Audio was significantly more powerful! Quite a difference! I'll spend some more time on this over the next couple days.
It is a tricky mod, but worth it!
I think my chip might be faulty so I got a new one coming in next week. I'll update this post next week when I get it
How much force would I need to exert for the connector to break? I'm asking this because I've heard that the connector isn't replaceable without replacing the entire motherboard, and I'm a bit paranoid about it breaking:silly:. Thanks in advance!
p7810456 said:
How much force would I need to exert for the connector to break? I'm asking this because I've heard that the connector isn't replaceable without replacing the entire motherboard, and I'm a bit paranoid about it breaking:silly:. Thanks in advance!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Owned g3, g4 and now v20. Totally normal to ask about this. Even if you protect your phones with cases and tempered glasses, two primary weak spots remain: motherboard battery contacts wearing out and breaking off (happened to me on my G4) and USB-C troubles. As both the battery connector and the USB-C port are soldered onto the motherboard, even if your phone is under warranty, the only fix is installing a new motherboard, losing the data (back up your data often!) As I was explained in the service center, taking the parts off the motherboard and soldering the new ones back on (that's only if you have a donor motherboard or parts to begin with) results in heating the surrounding circuitry area to the temps of up to 400c, risking damaging the metal tracks (or ripping the seating metal pucks for the parts off the board altogether on removal).
Since the g4 mishap, my solution for effectively protecting the USB port from wear, pulling and yanking damage is the permanent (but easily removable) magnetic USB-C insert that lives in your phone all the time and has magnetic studs on the outside plane that the charging cord snaps to. There are several manufacturers of those on Amazon, none are perfect but any of them is better than using your port "raw" daily. WZKEN makes tangle-free USB-C cords with strong contact between the insert and the cord. The cords (at least in my case) support Qualcomm quick charge 2. When connected through a WZKEN cord, my Anker QC2 charger plug changes light from blue to green to indicate QC and my phone notifies me QC is on, so the QC handshake works as expected.
One thing though if you go the magnetic rout - order MORE inserts than cords, if your USB-C port is loose, the inserts might fall out every once in a while, you'll lose them. Also I haven't seen any magnetic cords with light indicators that change color when QC kicks in, all the light shows is that there's electricity in the port on the wall charger that your cord is connected to. Also, WZKEN cord heads snap to the inserts the right side up only, not on either side.
Whatever the quirks, beats the every day pounding that USB-C ports take by far, especially knowing v20 doesn't charge wirelessly! Inserts are small enough to fit into all port cutouts on all cases I have, so no problem there, either.
The solution is so simple that I charge most of the micro-USB and USB-C devices in my house this way.
p7810456 said:
How much force would I need to exert for the connector to break? I'm asking this because I've heard that the connector isn't replaceable without replacing the entire motherboard, and I'm a bit paranoid about it breaking:silly:. Thanks in advance!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Very very hard.
Sent from my LG V20 using XDA Labs