Related
so..
i bought a G4 H812 canadian off Kijiji (our local buy and sell like craigs list kinda thing) $50 no battery stuck in HS-USB 9008.
invested another $22 in a battery from a friend. now total invested into a possible bricked device... $72.. not to bad, a risk yes... but i had luck and confidence!
excellent screen scratch wise but had delamination all around the screen (see pic 1)
so with a half charged new battery, a possible bricked g4, and some previous knowledge and repair skills, i went to work.
tried QPST... nadda. tried LGUP... nadda. tried lg flashtool... guess what.. yup.. nothing... felt like friends repair shop was last left option...
but im a scrooge, and determined
so i took to youtube and google, found out it may have been one of a possible recall phones that had the thermal bootloop issue or emmc failure..
grabbed my custom heatgun and blasted it at 275 for 3min.. 3" away in circle patterns, just like most unbrick guides.. and left it cool for 30min.
put it back together and powered on to find it boot just fine not needing no relfash, had a pattern lock, contacted original owner the seller, got lock off,
wiped personals and internal storage, and found it was on 6.0.1... DAMN... no root possible.
go to downgrade and it doesnt, error's out before can even do anything, i forget, com41 change required...
so go to reboot and it stops booting again, but really warm... overheat issue again...
repeat the process many times trying to get to usable home screen as it would just keep freezing.. so i really examined all the phones parts and noticed... pic2 this really crappy black thermal tape, right where the main emmc and cpu is... kinda silly for such a heat hog i thinks.. so looking at the rf shield on phone where cpu is they also have this really ****ty goldish shield tape that on the reverse side is plasticy feeling.. not good for thermals i think.. so i tore it off, and removed that black thermal tape, cleaned top of cpu, heatgunned again this time at 300 for 2 1/2min. 2.5" away circulars, twice, 30 min cooldowns between.
took a light blue 1mm thick heatpad i found from a ddr3 ram stick heatshield, cut it to shape of cpu, and placed on top, also placed a piece on the slightly smaller black chip to the upper left of cpu, and also on the what i believe to be the power control ic on the opposite side of board, so that all possible sources of higher heat had thermal pads and better conductivity.
placed phone all back together, screwed all screws finger tight, placed sim card and sd and battery, back cover.. and hoped to god.. press power..
boots up nice and quick, hot at first after a factory wipe in recovery, like kinda scary hot at first then slowly cools...
its been running for almost 2 days now.. no slowdowns, no sluggish, does get warm when charging as expected.
but so far, ive been able to use sixaxis controller app, my ps3 controller, moonlight for root, and stream wildlands from my pc for almost 2 hrs,
charge up a bit, play Bully and run 3dmark for a while, and while it does get warm, its not near as bad as it used to be, i think something went right this time
its almost upon its 3rd full day of use without bootloop or overheat, mind u i am also using v4 CTT cpu mod
have xposed installed and root on 5.1 and am happy its still running so far.
so yeah, if this continues to run ill keep updating post when and if something happens to the device..
if it keeps running every two days ill update, and then this may just be a way to self fix the overheat bootloop cpu issues most of us have face i bet!
if you try this, let me know if it works for you.. id be happy to know im not the only one
I'm glad you got it working! Yeah this has been brought up here before on getting it working or putting in the oven etc lol. But it will eventually fail again there's no complete fix sadly. But hope it lasts you long I loved the G4 but the boot loop issues really gave it a bad rap.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Will follow this, keep us updated !!
I have done this already and I can assure you it's won't last. Nice work but you are being too optimistic. Without going into too much detail, the problem with the soc will slowly get worse the more you use the phone and putting heatsinks only slows down the rate at which it gets worse and does't stop it altogether. You haven't fixed the underlying issue. That's why it will fail again eventually.
My lg g4 had bootlooped issue too. Everything I did didn't solved the problem . From freezer to oven , and disabling two big core to remaining in only one core the device bootlooped everytime. Now what I did was : First I opened a device , remove the upper golden colour cover enclosing the processor, put some thin paper covering both processor and ram. Then put everything on their respective place. Then I turned a device it booted up. Downgraded to lollipop , disabled the big core using .tot method , rooted my LG G4 and enabled four core using free app by stojshic (Kudos to him: https://forum.xda-developers.com/g4/themes-apps/root-4-cores-activator-t3538175) . The device is working fine since week . I've restarted the device many times to check whether I will get bootloop again, played games like clash of royale for 2 hours etc. The device is working fine with less heating. The main culprit is I guess golden cover shield which is worsening overheating issue . The CPU generates heat and the cover shield is increasing thermal cycle . If by any means a thin better insulator is kept between the CPU and covering shield, this may solve the bootloop problem
georgemb said:
My lg g4 had bootlooped issue too. Everything I did didn't solved the problem . From freezer to oven , and disabling two big core to remaining in only one core the device bootlooped everytime. Now what I did was : First I opened a device , remove the upper golden colour cover enclosing the processor, put some thin paper covering both processor and ram. Then put everything on their respective place. Then I turned a device it booted up. Downgraded to lollipop , disabled the big core using .tot method , rooted my LG G4 and enabled four core using free app by stojshic (Kudos to him: https://forum.xda-developers.com/g4/themes-apps/root-4-cores-activator-t3538175) . The device is working fine since week . I've restarted the device many times to check whether I will get bootloop again, played games like clash of royale for 2 hours etc. The device is working fine with less heating. The main culprit is I guess golden cover shield which is worsening overheating issue . The CPU generates heat and the cover shield is increasing thermal cycle . If by any means a thin better insulator is kept between the CPU and covering shield, this may solve the bootloop problem
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes but the the heat of the phone when your playing games and booting up will still effect the soc to get worse over time, just at a slower rate. Its not a case of "if it does't reach a certain temp it will be fine". It's a case of "the more heat the quicker it will bootloop, the less heat the slower it will take to bootloop" but either way it will get there eventually as the problem gets worse over time.
Any recommendations?
Can anyone recommend a copper heat tape (or something better) that would work to get my phone running again? It's overheating and therefore bootlooping, so I am curious if there is any specific things to look for or stay away from when buying something to fix this, however temporary it may be.
Copper is better conductor of heat .. So it will work as heat sink ..U can put thermal paste in between CPU and copper tape..
Check it out
youtu.be/G3dQdS1b0aw
Try it and report back
tnap1979 said:
so..
i bought a G4 H812 canadian off Kijiji (our local buy and sell like craigs list kinda thing) $50 no battery stuck in HS-USB 9008.
invested another $22 in a battery from a friend. now total invested into a possible bricked device... $72.. not to bad, a risk yes... but i had luck and confidence!
excellent screen scratch wise but had delamination all around the screen (see pic 1)
so with a half charged new battery, a possible bricked g4, and some previous knowledge and repair skills, i went to work.
tried QPST... nadda. tried LGUP... nadda. tried lg flashtool... guess what.. yup.. nothing... felt like friends repair shop was last left option...
but im a scrooge, and determined
so i took to youtube and google, found out it may have been one of a possible recall phones that had the thermal bootloop issue or emmc failure..
grabbed my custom heatgun and blasted it at 275 for 3min.. 3" away in circle patterns, just like most unbrick guides.. and left it cool for 30min.
put it back together and powered on to find it boot just fine not needing no relfash, had a pattern lock, contacted original owner the seller, got lock off,
wiped personals and internal storage, and found it was on 6.0.1... DAMN... no root possible.
go to downgrade and it doesnt, error's out before can even do anything, i forget, com41 change required...
so go to reboot and it stops booting again, but really warm... overheat issue again...
repeat the process many times trying to get to usable home screen as it would just keep freezing.. so i really examined all the phones parts and noticed... pic2 this really crappy black thermal tape, right where the main emmc and cpu is... kinda silly for such a heat hog i thinks.. so looking at the rf shield on phone where cpu is they also have this really ****ty goldish shield tape that on the reverse side is plasticy feeling.. not good for thermals i think.. so i tore it off, and removed that black thermal tape, cleaned top of cpu, heatgunned again this time at 300 for 2 1/2min. 2.5" away circulars, twice, 30 min cooldowns between.
took a light blue 1mm thick heatpad i found from a ddr3 ram stick heatshield, cut it to shape of cpu, and placed on top, also placed a piece on the slightly smaller black chip to the upper left of cpu, and also on the what i believe to be the power control ic on the opposite side of board, so that all possible sources of higher heat had thermal pads and better conductivity.
placed phone all back together, screwed all screws finger tight, placed sim card and sd and battery, back cover.. and hoped to god.. press power..
boots up nice and quick, hot at first after a factory wipe in recovery, like kinda scary hot at first then slowly cools...
its been running for almost 2 days now.. no slowdowns, no sluggish, does get warm when charging as expected.
but so far, ive been able to use sixaxis controller app, my ps3 controller, moonlight for root, and stream wildlands from my pc for almost 2 hrs,
charge up a bit, play Bully and run 3dmark for a while, and while it does get warm, its not near as bad as it used to be, i think something went right this time
its almost upon its 3rd full day of use without bootloop or overheat, mind u i am also using v4 CTT cpu mod
have xposed installed and root on 5.1 and am happy its still running so far.
so yeah, if this continues to run ill keep updating post when and if something happens to the device..
if it keeps running every two days ill update, and then this may just be a way to self fix the overheat bootloop cpu issues most of us have face i bet!
if you try this, let me know if it works for you.. id be happy to know im not the only one
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Can anyone recommend a copper heat tape (or something better) that would work to get my phone running again? It's overheating and therefore bootlooping, so I am curious if there is any specific things to look for or stay away from when buying something to fix this, however temporary it may be.
@ezzony was right, mine finally took a permanent dump last week after 3 more reheat attempts since last post, but it atleast lasted this long..
now im on a heavily modified Huawei Nova Plus converted from a MLA-L03 to a CAN-L11 software wise, so i could get perfect rooted Lineage OS 13 on it and xposed
i miss the camera of the g4 so much...
i still have my dead board Note 4, note 4 edge also dead board, and lg g4 dead board, all cause of same problems SOC overheats
seems like it was a common problem amongst tons of models too.... sad that we the paying customer get shoddy manufactured devices that we end up paying so much for...
georgemb said:
Copper is better conductor of heat .. So it will work as heat sink ..U can put thermal paste in between CPU and copper tape..
Check it out
youtu.be/G3dQdS1b0aw
Try it and report back
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks a bunch! That's the exact video I've been watching and the most helpful too. I am just not sure if there are different sizes in thickness that are more conducive or not. Also, are there different strengths of copper to resist higher temperatures? I'm learning all of this through google, so I'm sure I sound as savvy as I am with technology.
tnap1979 said:
@ezzony was right, mine finally took a permanent dump last week after 3 more reheat attempts since last post, but it atleast lasted this long..
now im on a heavily modified Huawei Nova Plus converted from a MLA-L03 to a CAN-L11 software wise, so i could get perfect rooted Lineage OS 13 on it and xposed
i miss the camera of the g4 so much...
i still have my dead board Note 4, note 4 edge also dead board, and lg g4 dead board, all cause of same problems SOC overheats
seems like it was a common problem amongst tons of models too.... sad that we the paying customer get shoddy manufactured devices that we end up paying so much for...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Sorry to hear that, but yes I feel every G4 will suffer the same fate as in your case. Once it starts it won't keep running forever.
Yes the camera is awesome. The no.1 reason I love the G4 and no.2 reason is the textured leather curved back cover which makes holding the G4 very easy in the hand to manage, as it is a big phone. I was going to go with the G5 when my G4 died as it has the same camera but I really don't think it's as special as the G4. I picked up a new secondhand G4 with a serial number of 701 so I'm hoping the fault has been resolved in the newer version.
I'm not totally optimistic it wont suffer from the same problem in time though as I do feel it gets very hot that one can feel on the back cover . And the heatsink over the soc is virtually non existent in comparison to a Galaxy S6 I owned briefly which had a much more capable heat sink on it. I'm hoping the heatsink is not the problem and it was purely the chip itself, but I don't know for sure. I stuck a copper shim on the soc with some thermal paste anyway just in case, couldn't hurt.
I'd suggest to anyone who like me loves the G4 then picking up a newer version with a serial number of 701 or above might not be a bad idea instead of messing around with a clearly faulty one that will fail on you possibly at a highly inconvenient moment.
tnap1979 said:
so..
i bought a G4 H812 canadian off Kijiji (our local buy and sell like craigs list kinda thing) $50 no battery stuck in HS-USB 9008.
invested another $22 in a battery from a friend. now total invested into a possible bricked device... $72.. not to bad, a risk yes... but i had luck and confidence!
excellent screen scratch wise but had delamination all around the screen (see pic 1)
so with a half charged new battery, a possible bricked g4, and some previous knowledge and repair skills, i went to work.
tried QPST... nadda. tried LGUP... nadda. tried lg flashtool... guess what.. yup.. nothing... felt like friends repair shop was last left option...
but im a scrooge, and determined
so i took to youtube and google, found out it may have been one of a possible recall phones that had the thermal bootloop issue or emmc failure..
grabbed my custom heatgun and blasted it at 275 for 3min.. 3" away in circle patterns, just like most unbrick guides.. and left it cool for 30min.
put it back together and powered on to find it boot just fine not needing no relfash, had a pattern lock, contacted original owner the seller, got lock off,
wiped personals and internal storage, and found it was on 6.0.1... DAMN... no root possible.
go to downgrade and it doesnt, error's out before can even do anything, i forget, com41 change required...
so go to reboot and it stops booting again, but really warm... overheat issue again...
repeat the process many times trying to get to usable home screen as it would just keep freezing.. so i really examined all the phones parts and noticed... pic2 this really crappy black thermal tape, right where the main emmc and cpu is... kinda silly for such a heat hog i thinks.. so looking at the rf shield on phone where cpu is they also have this really ****ty goldish shield tape that on the reverse side is plasticy feeling.. not good for thermals i think.. so i tore it off, and removed that black thermal tape, cleaned top of cpu, heatgunned again this time at 300 for 2 1/2min. 2.5" away circulars, twice, 30 min cooldowns between.
took a light blue 1mm thick heatpad i found from a ddr3 ram stick heatshield, cut it to shape of cpu, and placed on top, also placed a piece on the slightly smaller black chip to the upper left of cpu, and also on the what i believe to be the power control ic on the opposite side of board, so that all possible sources of higher heat had thermal pads and better conductivity.
placed phone all back together, screwed all screws finger tight, placed sim card and sd and battery, back cover.. and hoped to god.. press power..
boots up nice and quick, hot at first after a factory wipe in recovery, like kinda scary hot at first then slowly cools...
its been running for almost 2 days now.. no slowdowns, no sluggish, does get warm when charging as expected.
but so far, ive been able to use sixaxis controller app, my ps3 controller, moonlight for root, and stream wildlands from my pc for almost 2 hrs,
charge up a bit, play Bully and run 3dmark for a while, and while it does get warm, its not near as bad as it used to be, i think something went right this time
its almost upon its 3rd full day of use without bootloop or overheat, mind u i am also using v4 CTT cpu mod
have xposed installed and root on 5.1 and am happy its still running so far.
so yeah, if this continues to run ill keep updating post when and if something happens to the device..
if it keeps running every two days ill update, and then this may just be a way to self fix the overheat bootloop cpu issues most of us have face i bet!
if you try this, let me know if it works for you.. id be happy to know im not the only one
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It has been six months, does your lg g4 still working?
Hello all
I had a chance to buy 15 units of G3, all broken or faulty. The purchase was made via an Swiss operator who was about to recycle the devices, but instead of recycling I bought them via some program for that. They dont pay for recycling, I get the devices extremely cheap, no one pays any tax (Switzerland stuff and their laws)
First of all I want to say - LG made a phenomenal job of envisioning a device - G3 was superb compared to all the phones released in that time period (S5, OPO1, Z2/Z3, etc) with it's bleeding edge technology and phenomenal design (which I am sure inspired others to go bezel-less and edgy and so on). 2K screen, great chipset, infrared focus and insane camera quality, etc.
Only thing they made bad was actual hardware assembly: I have never seen such bad work in modern electronics judging just by the amount of extra-flux you can see on the motherboards, looks extremely sloppy. That kind of assembly eventually led to 1000 problems, which I am sure all of us G3 owners experienced past the 24 month warranty period. Some would go so far to say that this stuff with G3 could be considered Planned obsolescence with all the problems appearing just around the 24 months clock, and with the MM update (taking into account that LG held the Nexus flag at that moment and they went over their heads thinking they are going to surpass Samsung, just like Samsung did to HTC)
My 15 units were:
- 6 units BSOD
- 5 units screen flicker
- 2 units "wifi turning on"
- 2 units sim card removed and restart/No sim card/invalid card
Note: I am not electrician and I dont understand how to read schematics, all of my info came from people that I figured best know how to repair mobile phone stuff (and also speak THE WORST english)
G3 motherboard layout for future reference:
http://i.imgsafe.org/1b64bf1021.jpg
1. BSOD -
The problem is with bad BGA solder of MMC chip. Not the actual chip (very rare occurrence). In short: BGA Solder is type of assembly that uses little balls of solder instead of pins, to hold the chip in place. There are more than 60+ balls on the MMC chip so no homemade replacement is possible (there is actually a turkish video which is NOT the way to do it as the guy doesnt add new balls, just strips old ones away)
permanent solution: give it into a repair shop to replace or do a proper reball of the Sandisk memory chip
semi-permanent solution (sometimes works 100%): give the chip a heat of 120-150 celsius (no american units, sorry) for 2 minutes (using a high powered hair dryer of at least 2000W, or a proper heat-gun) with slight push (I used wooden objects so that Metalic ones wouldnt damage the chip) > this repaired total of 5 BSOD phones, just one went dead completely after several tries. ALL of my 5 units never went back to BSOD. Please, DO NOT use ovens or anything like that, If you dont have a god-damn hair dryer give it to a technician and ask him to blow it for a minute or so. Ovens WILL burn other parts of the board, and knowing how shi*ty the whole assembly is, baking the board will just detach other chips. If you apply pressure to the chip, use something wooden like a chopstick or a pencil (dont use bamboo, it will release oils, use dry wood)
2. screen flicker -
The problem IS NOT a graphic chip (analogix), the problem is NOT CPU, as many have speculated in the past and the people who putt thermal paste over a CPU need serious education on the topic. Thermal paste is in no way a magical substance that lowers temperature when applied - it's purpose is to fill the gaps between a heating body (CPU) and heat dispenser (cooling unit, cooler, aluminum grill, etc), so thermal paste is a gap filler, not a cooling magical stuff. With that out of the picture, the problem of the screen flicker is a completely separate integrated circuit which goes haywire due to some magnetic stuff:
PERMANENT SOLUTION (homemade doable):
Now first, go back to motherboard image, and on the front side of the board find Gyro Sensor chip - just above that chip, there is a grid of 5x5 pin-like circuits.
http://i.imgsafe.org/1ba7e9ccc9.jpg
Now that you have located them, that is your LCD screen flicker solution: I didnt quite understand what is really going on there, but you need to apply heat (just like in the BSOD solution, same time same temperature), and use metallic object to "clean" the pins. He explained to me that the screen flicker is due to some magnetic residue that builds up in that circuits, and a clean metal will remove it. (how that is even possible I dont know but the solution works) Long story short - I used a really fine metallic brush (Dremel set) and once I heated it up, just strolled with brush over those pin-heads. According to the guy, the metallic object needed for cleaning should be non-magnetic. If you dont remove the screen flicker at first, use a really fine object to give all the pins a push (once heated), I used broken needle (regular needle is too sharp) or smallest Phillips screwdriver in my set. IMPORTANT: when doing this, there is a ton of chips nearby so it's smart to protect rest of the board with Alu-foil
total of my 5 screen flicker units NEVER went back to screen flicker issue. Special note: 2 of my units after completely removed screen flicker issue, immediately went to "no sim card" issue and I dont know how that is connected, but there is also a method for sim-card issue repair further down the topic
3. Wifi turning on/wifi grayed out/wifi scanning
The problem over here is also not the problem of the actual Wifi chip (motherboard image back side, red mark). The problem is the power controller located on the front side (red mark). It is also a BGA solder issue so it's repairable
permanent solution: reball or replace chip in proper mobile service shop
semi-permanent solluton: Use the same method of repairing as for the BSOD problem, but with applying heat + pressure onto the power controller chip. Be careful as there are tons of IC's nearby. Homemade solution worked partially for me - one unit (out of 2) is completely repaired, other unit actually went dead (I believe I gave it too much pressure, that was my first repair )
4. Sim card removed and restart/No sim card/invalid card -
The problem with this is also not a problem of RF chip (backside green) or the 2g/3g/4g chip (backside light red), and it is NOT a problem of Sim card slot: it's one lousy mo-fo chip that's not even listed in the hardware parts image, and it's only noted in the actual schematics (I believe it's a chip for regulating power onto the sim card slot and transferring data further)
this one (red arrow pointing onto it):
http://i.imgsafe.org/1c52a74d87.jpg
permanent solution: replace, reball or reflow in service shops (when I say replace, it makes sense as new chips out of the box have BGA balls already on it, just need to place it and heat it up)
semi-permanent solution: same method goes like BSOD and wifi problems - apply heat and moderate pressure with wooden object. The problem with this one is that it will reappear as a problem. I had one unit in the service shop where the repair guy gave it some insane heat for 5-6 seconds while protecting rest of the board, and it was permanent, no sim problem any more. In homemade variant, the problem seems almost unable to fix, but you need to be persistent. sometimes it takes 4-5 tries for the phone (placing the board, and removing it again and so on is a pain in the arse) to recognize sim and after that you are good for a month or so, once it "catches" I gave it a try with a higher temperature / less time (200c, 30 seconds) and it shows better results, I dont need to try the board for 3-4-5 times until it recognizes the SIM, it's imediately good to go, but even with that it reappears after a month, 2 months, but sometimes after only couple of days
one unit is permanent (reflow in service shop), others (repaired screen flickers that went "no sim card" ) bug me still with reappearing SIM problem.
There you go, I wanted to share this with everyone so you people wouldnt lose your mind with paper tricks, ovens, and such, as G3 is still really powerful device and it would be bad for all the units to end up in a bin. I am using 3/32 version with fulmics and it works as any new 600 usd device, if G3 still works without a flaw there is really no need to go newer, not yet.
END NOTE: every attempt at trying this is on your own responsibility, I am not responsible if you fry your board, break your device, or tear your flex cables and such.
END NOTE2: in my experience, dont attempt to try the newly repaired board with battery less than 40%, I wont get into it right now but all Li-ion/Li-poly devices work at their best when there is a good charge
good luck with potential experiments fellow XDA people
Thank you for this thread, I'm sure it will help a lot of more technologically-minded users on XDA. As for me, I did have a sim card removed problem but thankfully it appeared within my warranty period so I took it to them and they replaced the entire PCB (MoBo).
Sent from my LG-D855 using Tapatalk
Thanks for the info. After troubleshooting a few BSOD & flicker phones I came to pretty much the same conclusion as well. Although some temporary G3 fixes work for a short time, nothing is actually "repaired" until you replace the BGA ball solder; so unless you have the proper equipment to work on BGA components you're kind of screwed.
LG has a quality problem with their manufacturing techniques of their motherboards; the latest issue was bootloop issues on the later G-series phones that were also tied to poor soldering(which they are now being sued over). It's a shame too, because I like LG's devices...just hard to trust them completely at this point. But I guess that's the philosophy of these huge OEM's these days: skimp on quality to meet sales demands. Samsung is a good example of this as well with their exploding note 7's and red tinted S8 displays(that they refuse to admit is a hardware problem - "lets just make the red tint slider longer!" just like their software "fix" for the Note 7 battery that didn't work and eventually required a massive recall). Buying a phone is turning into a crap shoot these days
@startswithPendswithOOH - you are right about everything, they really have crappy assembly. But for me, almost all of BSOD and screen flicker issues are repairable in the home conditions using methods from original post. Luckily I do have a professional heat gun so I can even experiment on the temperature and time of heating and my repair rate is great (fortunately I had 15 devices to experiment on). I actually made some money of it, sold almost all of them that were repaired and not a single buyer called me back with a problem. My girlfriend and my nephew are going with my repaired G3s and they use it constantly. Especially my girl, she abuses it to the point that I get annoyed and remove all her running apps (sums up to 20+ ) cause she uses just 10 of some social apps and such, her phone should overheat and problems should reappear if it were not for a good repair. She usesd BSOD repaired device and didnt have one for 4 months now
Update on possible solution for the sim card problem
I did a little tempering with a piece of dry wood, and I made it EXACTLY into a shape of the square of the SIM card chip (described in the original post). I used a stick and shaped it with dremel sandpapering tool, to be exactly the size of the square. Then I putt a cloth underneath the board (so when applying pressure from the upper side you wont break some other stuff opposite) and made a pressure with wooden stick, approximately the force needed to pierce the styrofoam with index finger. That's about the strongest pressure you can give it, and not damage the board. heated it up with 200c with a heat gun for a minute
6th day without problems, without sim card failure, should be noted that I am abusing that board via data and calls going all the time and it seems the problem is solved, will report again in 3 weeks (full month)
Hey!
Do you have any fix for rear camera problem?
Sp3cTeR said:
Hey!
Do you have any fix for rear camera problem?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
well I do - only problem with rear camera should be - replace rear camera :cyclops:
Oooooh, I stand corrected after a bit of google-ing. I see that it IS an actual problem with no solution, camera sometimes works, sometimes it doesnt. Well, it could be yet another chip on the board, actually the way people described the problem on Androidcentral forums, seems it's 100% a chip issue. If it was HW issue it would work or not work, this partial usability points to another motherboard problem
anyways you should check all the stuff that should NOT be motherboard issue
1. camera module gone bad - replacement should be extremely cheap, check out service shops for spare or Aliexpress for mega-cheap spare, if you know how to open ask someone with G3 to replace cam modules for couple of days to check
2. camera flex cable - in the process of fiddling with the phone and removing motherboard several times, one can easily tear the flex cable of the cam, examine it
3. motherboard connector for camera - for this I really dont see even a remote chance of happening, but im still mentioning it
4. software problem - eliminate the possibility of tempering with root access with files, by doing a factory reset
Well, just bought lg g3 for $60. Pretty clean. The problem was that owner couldn't get it out of Firwmare Upgrade screen, had no experience nor time / patience. So I bought it. Later that night, managed to flash v10e from lgg3root(dot)com tutorial for it. From the first try.
But using the phone got laggier and laggier, and if I were to do multiple tasks like switching between apps and stuff like this, the phone would freeze and then in about 15-20 seconds it would give me the LG logo and pretty much stay there, eventually giving the "kernel crashed" screen (BSOD ?? )
Please, what do u think the problem is?
Managed eventually get v20h / v30b on it but was pretty much unusable, and most of the time, when trying to get it connect with the ADB and run "reboot recovery" and do factory wipe, it would just crash again. Now I'm stuggling to get v10e again on it ... but it's really a pain. I've got about a week worth of hours into making it work. Please, read my thread to get some more 'clues' https://forum.xda-developers.com/lg-g3/help/help-horrible-experience-d855-t3600094
AKAndrew41 said:
Well, just bought lg g3 for $60. Pretty clean. The problem was that owner couldn't get it out of Firwmare Upgrade screen, had no experience nor time / patience. So I bought it. Later that night, managed to flash v10e from lgg3root(dot)com tutorial for it. From the first try.
But using the phone got laggier and laggier, and if I were to do multiple tasks like switching between apps and stuff like this, the phone would freeze and then in about 15-20 seconds it would give me the LG logo and pretty much stay there, eventually giving the "kernel crashed" screen (BSOD ?? )
Please, what do u think the problem is?
Managed eventually get v20h / v30b on it but was pretty much unusable, and most of the time, when trying to get it connect with the ADB and run "reboot recovery" and do factory wipe, it would just crash again. Now I'm stuggling to get v10e again on it ... but it's really a pain. I've got about a week worth of hours into making it work. Please, read my thread to get some more 'clues' https://forum.xda-developers.com/lg-g3/help/help-horrible-experience-d855-t3600094
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hi, the links arr down?
i fixed my screen flickering issue thank you so much i will report if it comes back it's no problem for me but the fix you described works that means those circuits have something to do with this,i would like to know if it's possible to clean those circuits with alcohol it's maybe stupid but idk you tell me other than that thank you
edit:it's back sorry if got anyone excited,i'm back to putting the pressure on the SOC
Thank bro u saved my device!
Updated : flickering to fading comes again after less than an hour with less usage , just charging it, so i tried heated up and put pressure again but this time on the processor.
Igoritza said:
4. Sim card removed and restart/No sim card/invalid card -
The problem with this is also not a problem of RF chip (backside green) or the 2g/3g/4g chip (backside light red), and it is NOT a problem of Sim card slot: it's one lousy mo-fo chip that's not even listed in the hardware parts image, and it's only noted in the actual schematics (I believe it's a chip for regulating power onto the sim card slot and transferring data further)
this one (red arrow pointing onto it):
http://i.imgsafe.org/1c52a74d87.jpg
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Well done mate, but according to service manual the chip you pointing with red arrow is NFC
Im bit confused now what it have to do with the sim
As far as i think, if bsod or screen flicker comes up, theres no need to fix it because its dead, so just buy a new mobo and thats it.
startswithPendswithOOH said:
Thanks for the info. After troubleshooting a few BSOD & flicker phones I came to pretty much the same conclusion as well. Although some temporary G3 fixes work for a short time, nothing is actually "repaired" until you replace the BGA ball solder; so unless you have the proper equipment to work on BGA components you're kind of screwed.
LG has a quality problem with their manufacturing techniques of their motherboards; the latest issue was bootloop issues on the later G-series phones that were also tied to poor soldering(which they are now being sued over). It's a shame too, because I like LG's devices...just hard to trust them completely at this point. But I guess that's the philosophy of these huge OEM's these days: skimp on quality to meet sales demands. Samsung is a good example of this as well with their exploding note 7's and red tinted S8 displays(that they refuse to admit is a hardware problem - "lets just make the red tint slider longer!" just like their software "fix" for the Note 7 battery that didn't work and eventually required a massive recall). Buying a phone is turning into a crap shoot these days
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Preach on. Lol i got a g4 im in the lawsuit over
Yeah black screen comes back when the tmperature was hot. So its time to throw away this crap g3. Hopeless .
2 years ago a yellow coffe spot appeared on the top corner of my lg3 display, so i sent back to warranty and they changed the lcd screen.
Some month after the same coffe spot appear in the same area, i brought back the phone in warranty they changed the lcd. again
Now i have the problem for the 3rd time, im not in warranty anymore.
In my opinion is not the lcd, the lcd cant burn itself in that way, i think is a glue problem and maybe i can buy a new 13$ glass on amazon and replace it.
But before to risk to broke the phone, anyone experienced that?
This is an image i found on google image, is not my G3 but that explain my situation.
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L33TaS said:
As far as i think, if bsod or screen flicker comes up, theres no need to fix it because its dead, so just buy a new mobo and thats it.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
that's is also a temporary solution,if you're wasting money better buy another smartphone that is no an lg,go with another reliable brand
Khalid47 said:
i fixed my screen flickering issue thank you so much i will report if it comes back it's no problem for me but the fix you described works that means those circuits have something to do with this,i would like to know if it's possible to clean those circuits with alcohol it's maybe stupid but idk you tell me other than that thank you
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
how close did you hold the heat gun/ hair dryer?
Khalid47 said:
that's is also a temporary solution,if you're wasting money better buy another smartphone that is no an lg,go with another reliable brand
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
This is true. I bought a new mobo from DhGate to fix the famous "WiFi saved but not connecting issue" only to end up with the screen flickering, lines, and fade to black issue with the replacement mobo. I want to get a new phone but I'm waiting for the note 8/ pixel 2 .
unbreakabl3 said:
how close did you hold the heat gun/ hair dryer?
This is true. I bought a new mobo from DhGate to fix the famous "WiFi saved but not connecting issue" only to end up with the screen flickering, lines, and fade to black issue with the replacement mobo. I want to get a new phone but I'm waiting for the note 8/ pixel 2 .
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
i held a hairdryer for 3 mins with my hand i'm thinking the problem will comeback but i don't care i fixed it many times temporarely,as for the mobo you shouldn't have wasted your money it's really dumb people who buy it again we already know that it will die really what's the point of that,as for your future daily driver i would recommand you go with a sony i'm not working for them or anything i had a sony and my brother has one never experienced anything hardware related or software related,just talking from my experience with this brand i can't advise you something that i never tried samsung or xiaomi etc...,goodluck with your fixing
Khalid47 said:
i held a hairdryer for 3 mins with my hand i'm thinking the problem will comeback but i don't care i fixed it many times temporarely,as for the mobo you shouldn't have wasted your money it's really dumb people who buy it again we already know that it will die really what's the point of that,as for your future daily driver i would recommand you go with a sony i'm not working for them or anything i had a sony and my brother has one never experienced anything hardware related or software related,just talking from my experience with this brand i can't advise you something that i never tried samsung or xiaomi etc...,goodluck with your fixing
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
i meant how far away from the chip did you hold the hairdryer? 10cm, 20cm etc.
well I wanted to keep the phone going till the Fall lol.. and plus i didnt think that the replacement would have issues tbh. Thanks for the recommendation. I'll look into them.
Ok so, I work in a phone repair shop.
Today a guy came in with 2 6P's. One with battery issues, one with BLOD.
Well I tried the software fix for him for the BLOD 6P.....no dice. So he said, you take it. I have no use for a brick.
Well guess what phone I'm writing this on ?
So I tried a couple different flashes of software, different ROMs, stock and otherwise with the 4 core fixes and twrp. Saw no life regardless.
So I thought, nothing to lose, let's see what I can do.
First though was to just heat the SOC and see what happens, still nothing. Just a basic heating nothing extreme. I've brought back a few devices just doing a basic heating before (iPhone and Android)
Obviously not the case here.
So with nothing left to use I went extreme.
Removed the EM shield. Sat with the heat gun on the SOC (moving around slowly of course) till I smelt the sweet sweet smell of solder. As soon as I did I took these little clamps we have for holding down screens like iPads, and used a single one to ensure the SOC was held down to the board. Let it cool.
Then cleaned up the paste, and took some thermal pads from a broken screen Samsung a5 2017 we had. And replaced the old paste with those pads( a little cutting required) replaced both on top of the SOC and on top of the shield.
Put back together, and 4 hours after receiving it in bootloop this 6p booted up with all 8 cores running like a beast!
Don't know how long this will last, hopefully for a long time. We're going on almost 24 hours now so here's hoping ?
On another note, I plan to tear down the A5 screen for the copper heatpipe tommorow and replace the EM shield thermal pad with the heatpipe and see how that goes.
Hopefully this mini guide can help someone out who may be more willing to go all out to fix their fancy brick ?
UPDATE:
Heat pipes have been added.
Applied Arctic silver 5 with a copper shim directly on the SOC.
Put the em shield back on, took copper "heatpipes" from a Sony z5 screen, and noticed how thin they were. Arctic silver on the EM shield, cut a large piece of copper from the back of a Samsung S5 screen, then cut that into 2 pieces to about 3x1". To simulate proper "heatpipes."
Sat the copper pieces in the spot the EM shield sits and re-assembled.
Phone is still working just fine, I've been monitoring temps and the 4 bad cores. They haven't had an issue and the SOC sits at idle at 32°
I decided to stress it a little bit with multiple apps running, split screen YouTube(1080p60fps) and facebook. Max temp it hit was 37°.
Using "CPU Monitor" from the play store for this information.
And currently using it as my daily driver as my own sort of stress test lol
Nice...
are you able to boot into recovery before heating up the soc??
Mine unable to boot to recovery at all cost...
Tried heating with heat gun at soc but still unable to boot recovery...
ronald_loulan said:
Nice...
are you able to boot into recovery before heating up the soc??
Mine unable to boot to recovery at all cost...
Tried heating with heat gun at soc but still unable to boot recovery...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Were you running android pie before it started bootlooping?
imjuz4you said:
Were you running android pie before it started bootlooping?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
1st bootloop was on 7.1 and suscessfully rebooted.
So I quickly flash 4 core mod.
After 1 month of battery replacement the device bootloop forever.
It survived for 2months+ from the day I flash 4 core mod.
I tried oreo and with 4core mod and etc but failed.
Moved to hardware repair, as above but still failed.
It bootloop and unable to boot into TWRP, not even booting TWRP thru ADB.
I can't say without having the device on hand, and running some tests. But from what your describing and the processes you've tried it sounds to me like the flash storage chip may be your issue. Either it's doing the same as the SOC and slowly separating from the board, or it's a generally bad chip.
Just taking an educated guess so don't take my word for it lol
However, to answer your original question (I'm sorry I didn't see it)
When the phone was booplooping I was UNABLE to access recovery, even after flashing an OS, however I was able to adb transfer and flash twrp without any issues.
Romain1911 said:
However, to answer your original question (I'm sorry I didn't see it)
When the phone was booplooping I was UNABLE to access recovery, even after flashing an OS, however I was able to adb transfer and flash twrp without any issues.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You mean adb push file.zip?
ronald_loulan said:
You mean adb push file.zip?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes
Tried that but my device doesn't boot into recovery...
Romain1911 said:
Yes
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
When the phone was not working you was able to send with adb files to it? This is strange. Normaly you can then just flash with fastboot (fastboot flash recovery filenname.img) the 4 core twrp and from there on you can use usb file transfer to load for example your LineageOS and after flashing lineage os, you then configure the kernel with N5X-6P_BLOD_Workaround_Injector_Addon-AK2-signed.zip . This have really not worked (to make the phone usable with just 4 cores) but reheating the SOC worked?
Can you explain some more in detail what temperature (in celsius) you have used to make the solder of the soc fluid again?
Did you think this would also work when you just have a regulated SMD soldering station and no other tools? I ask that because you told that you have been using some other tools to hold something (if i understood you right).
nexus 6p BLOD
whats up guys, i have a nexus 6p with BLOD, i am unable to flash the 4 core fix provided by XDA due to USB debugging being disabled before the loop. is my only option to dissasemble and go for a reflow of the cpu? or is there anything i can do using fastboot or adb? cheers
You dont need usb-debugging. You need a unlocked bootloader. You unlock the bootloader with "fastboot oem unlock" when your phone is in bootloader mode. It does not matter what Android you have installed when your bootloader is unlocked or unlockable.
If you have missed to enable the option to unlock the bootloader previous, then you have to heat up your phone to boot up once and then immidietly enable the option to unlock the bootloader.
But thats all not relevant in this thread. This thread is about fixing up the SoC again and not for "getting it at work again with just 4 cores". There are ton of other forum posts that cover that.
ncc8uetou5et said:
You dont need usb-debugging. You need a unlocked bootloader. You unlock the bootloader with "fastboot oem unlock" when your phone is in bootloader mode. It does not matter what Android you have installed when your bootloader is unlocked or unlockable.
If you have missed to enable the option to unlock the bootloader previous, then you have to heat up your phone to boot up once and then immidietly enable the option to unlock the bootloader.
But thats all not relevant in this thread. This thread is about fixing up the SoC again and not for "getting it at work again with just 4 cores". There are ton of other forum posts that cover that.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
well i have no way of getting the phone on, i cannot unlock the bootloader due to allow bootloader unlock not being enabled. i dont have access to settings. ive heated the phones exterior to no avail. so i will have to dissasemble it and fix the soc so yes i am on the right thread thanks.
ncc8uetou5et said:
When the phone was not working you was able to send with adb files to it? This is strange. Normaly you can then just flash with fastboot (fastboot flash recovery filenname.img) the 4 core twrp and from there on you can use usb file transfer to load for example your LineageOS and after flashing lineage os, you then configure the kernel with N5X-6P_BLOD_Workaround_Injector_Addon-AK2-signed.zip . This have really not worked (to make the phone usable with just 4 cores) but reheating the SOC worked?
Can you explain some more in detail what temperature (in celsius) you have used to make the solder of the soc fluid again?
Did you think this would also work when you just have a regulated SMD soldering station and no other tools? I ask that because you told that you have been using some other tools to hold something (if i understood you right).
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes it worked just fine sending files too it however the 4 core fix still did not work hence why I went into the hardware method.
If I remember correctly the heat gun was set to max for this, so in our case it stops at about 430°.
As for it working without other tools, I can't say.
What was used is a clamp that we use in my shop to hold down screens that have been just been replaced so that the glue solidifies with the screen held down.
I can only assume that the clamp held it down so that the solder would make proper contact while it re-solidified, at least that was my hope when I clamped the chip down. Whether or not it was the main reason for it working I can't say, and at my shop we lack the hardware to do a full chip removal, re-ball, or anything of that sort unfortunately.
Cpu reflow
Romain1911 said:
Ok so, I work in a phone repair shop.
Today a guy came in with 2 6P's. One with battery issues, one with BLOD.
Well I tried the software fix for him for the BLOD 6P.....no dice. So he said, you take it. I have no use for a brick.
Well guess what phone I'm writing this on
So I tried a couple different flashes of software, different ROMs, stock and otherwise with the 4 core fixes and twrp. Saw no life regardless.
So I thought, nothing to lose, let's see what I can do.
First though was to just heat the SOC and see what happens, still nothing. Just a basic heating nothing extreme. I've brought back a few devices just doing a basic heating before (iPhone and Android)
Obviously not the case here.
So with nothing left to use I went extreme.
Removed the EM shield. Sat with the heat gun on the SOC (moving around slowly of course) till I smelt the sweet sweet smell of solder. As soon as I did I took these little clamps we have for holding down screens like iPads, and used a single one to ensure the SOC was held down to the board. Let it cool.
Then cleaned up the paste, and took some thermal pads from a broken screen Samsung a5 2017 we had. And replaced the old paste with those pads( a little cutting required) replaced both on top of the SOC and on top of the shield.
Put back together, and 4 hours after receiving it in bootloop this 6p booted up with all 8 cores running like a beast!
Don't know how long this will last, hopefully for a long time. We're going on almost 24 hours now so here's hoping
On another note, I plan to tear down the A5 screen for the copper heatpipe tommorow and replace the EM shield thermal pad with the heatpipe and see how that goes.
Hopefully this mini guide can help someone out who may be more willing to go all out to fix their fancy brick
UPDATE:
Heat pipes have been added.
Applied Arctic silver 5 with a copper shim directly on the SOC.
Put the em shield back on, took copper "heatpipes" from a Sony z5 screen, and noticed how thin they were. Arctic silver on the EM shield, cut a large piece of copper from the back of a Samsung S5 screen, then cut that into 2 pieces to about 3x1". To simulate proper "heatpipes."
Sat the copper pieces in the spot the EM shield sits and re-assembled.
Phone is still working just fine, I've been monitoring temps and the 4 bad cores. They haven't had an issue and the SOC sits at idle at 32°
I decided to stress it a little bit with multiple apps running, split screen YouTube(1080p60fps) and facebook. Max temp it hit was 37°.
Using "CPU Monitor" from the play store for this information.
And currently using it as my daily driver as my own sort of stress test lol
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hey man, im in the same boat with my nexus 6p.. when reflowing the SOC do i need to use any flux ?
cheers
dyl2526 said:
Hey man, im in the same boat with my nexus 6p.. when reflowing the SOC do i need to use any flux ?
cheers
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Eh, when I did it I did not use any. But that was for lack of having any, otherwise I would have used it lol
So I would use flux for sure
Legend
Romain1911 said:
Eh, when I did it I did not use any. But that was for lack of having any, otherwise I would have used it lol
So I would use flux for sure
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks for the reply man, I’m new enough to this so what’s the best type of flux for this phone or is there one that’s good for smartphones in general?
dyl2526 said:
Thanks for the reply man, I’m new enough to this so what’s the best type of flux for this phone or is there one that’s good for smartphones in general?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
No worries, Novacan old Masters flux in an 8oz bottle is what we usually use here, just didn't have any at the time. It's on Amazon, and fairly cheap.
This is exactly what I thought was going to work, just never had another 6P to give it a whirl. I have brought back numerous dead-GPU laptops this way by resetting the solder. Getting it to 385-400°F for 10 minutes and letting it cool reset the solder and allowed the GPU to work like new again (although results varied). No telling how long this will last but glad to see it worked on a phone.
My Nexus 6p today almost completely dead, I was flashing a ROM bootloggers android 9.0 and before finishing flashing the cell phone has been. off and now when trying to turn it on, Eve does not get anything, I connect it to the computer and it is detected as QS-loader-9008 or something like that, from what I have read it is a hard brick, I will try to make a complete rework to the SoC of the processor to see what happens I would like to know if someone here has done it before to guide me
Hi all, was replacing my cracked screen and managed to graze some of the resistors on the motherboard and its possible one was unseated.
New screen and old screen both turn on but the touch does not register. I think I need a new motherboard.
Does anyone know where to get motherboard parts? Does anyone have one for sale as i would love to put this thing back together!
A more likely culprit is that the digitizer wasn't plugged back in properly . I would suggest that you take the phone apart again and make sure all of the connections are seated properly.
I've had a phone with motherboard issues and they generally completely stop working (black screen, no boot, etc). That's why I really don't think the touch screen issue is a result of a loose component on the mother board. That being said, if you really feel like it is a loose connection on the mother board, you can try baking the board in an oven to soften the solder joints which allows them to re-adhere when they cool down. Yes, it can actually work. Take the phone apart and stick just the motherboard (don't put the case, screen, battery, etc in the oven) in an oven at 400 degrees for about 10 minutes. I've always rested the motherboard on top of two wooden spoons that were sitting on a cookie sheet. This keeps the motherboard off the hot metal surface and allows the hot air to get to all parts of the mother board. Remove the motherboard and let it cool down before installing the board.
Thanks Sic for the reply. You made me not give up hope. I will try again and bake some mobo.
But which wire is the actual digitizer. Is it the one on the far right?
The rest seem to attach to bumpers or usbc charger. Thanks again for reply.
Attached 2 photos. 1 is my mobo with red circles around what i think was damaged. I think this is the only connection to the screen digitizer in the phone.
The second is from IFIXIT mobo. it looks a bit different, possibly different revision but showing the same angle. Digitizer connection on top.
Could one of those circles connections cause the digitizer to not pick up finger contact but the screen works perfectly?
Looking at the two pictures, I could be easily convinced that there isn't suppose to my any components where you have your red circles. If you look at the IFIXIT picture, there are three components, then a break, then 6 more components and another break. You red circles seem to correspond with the breaks in the IFIXIT image, although it is clear that the motherboard isn't identical in the two images. Just my two cents.
sic0048 said:
Looking at the two pictures, I could be easily convinced that there isn't suppose to my any components where you have your red circles. If you look at the IFIXIT picture, there are three components, then a break, then 6 more components and another break. You red circles seem to correspond with the breaks in the IFIXIT image, although it is clear that the motherboard isn't identical in the two images. Just my two cents.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks for the reply.
Well, back to using my Pickle 3 which is still great and my Pixel 4 cupcakes are about ready. Let me check the oven.
Any update? I'm curious to know if baking the motherboard helped at all.
sic0048 said:
Any update? I'm curious to know if baking the motherboard helped at all.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Update. Phone no longer boots after reinstalling everything.
I pre-heated to 200c ~ 400f and let it sit for 10 minutes and cool before reinstalling all the components. Was a final attempt I know.
ridethasky said:
Update. Phone no longer boots after reinstalling everything.
I pre-heated to 200c ~ 400f and let it sit for 10 minutes and cool before reinstalling all the components. Was a final attempt I know.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That's too bad. I'm not all that surprised it didn't help, but I am surprised it actually made the problem worse.
Perhaps one of the components was loose and baking it made the connection fail completely. As I noted before, motherboard issues generally result in a no boot situation.
Baking it was a last ditch effort to try to get it to work, but don't feel like you have to quit now. You can try baking it again - perhaps for slightly longer this time. You have nothing to loose and perhaps it will cause a bad connection to re-solidify. Sorry I can't be of more help.
Hello I am sorry that your phone is not working. I was wondering if you do find a new board if you wanted to sell me your old mother board. I want to try a project of replacing the ram chip with a 16gb chip but to do so I need a old board.
Hello, I have the same problem, my pixel 4 XL got wet (I know, it was stupid) it reaches a depth of 2 meters, I opened it to myself if I could save it and it was completely rusty. and several transistors and chips came out. So I decided to look for a motherboard to repair it. anyone know where i can get the replacement? :crying: :crying: :crying:
ridethasky said:
Does anyone have one for sale as i would love to put this thing back together!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thread closed and cleaned! Do not sell or trade on XDA!
XDA Forum Rules (excerpt):
...
7. Do not sell or trade on the forums.
If you wish to advertise a product, simply contact us. We can provide ads but you are not permitted to just post it in the forums. If you do, it will be removed and you're likely to receive a ban.
The buying, selling, trading and / or exchanging of any item is now prohibited on XDA, in any forum or via Private Messages. We now use www.swappa.com
...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I ordered online a motherboard for my dead N910G due to EMMC bug and I'm thinking on what I'm gonna do to prevent It from happening again on the new motherboard. I didn't yet receive the new motherboard and I'm assuming that it is currently on Android 5.0.
Do I need to stay in Lollipop and don't bother to upgrade it to Marshmallow? Or maybe, put a custom rom instead? Or how about putting another layer of material between the emmc and the thermal pad(though, I'm thinking to replace the thermal pad with something thicker instead, maybe 2.0mm)~I'm quite aware that this one is "fix" for Note 4s already experiencing emmc bug. Or is it something that's inevitable and probably die again within months or years?
Any suggestion is greatly appreciated.
Thanks!
Did you read?
https://forum.xda-developers.com/note-4/help/100-fix-galaxy-note-4-emmc-error-random-t3859448
Heros2002 said:
Did you read?
https://forum.xda-developers.com/note-4/help/100-fix-galaxy-note-4-emmc-error-random-t3859448
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
i'm thinking of doing this too but this is more of a "fix" for note 4's that's already experiencing emmc errors instead of a prevention. But putting a fresh thermal pad can't really do harm so I might try to do this.
mikel023 said:
I ordered online a motherboard for my dead N910G due to EMMC bug and I'm thinking on what I'm gonna do to prevent It from happening again on the new motherboard. I didn't yet receive the new motherboard and I'm assuming that it is currently on Android 5.0.
Do I need to stay in Lollipop and don't bother to upgrade it to Marshmallow? Or maybe, put a custom rom instead? Or how about putting another layer of material between the emmc and the thermal pad(though, I'm thinking to replace the thermal pad with something thicker instead, maybe 2.0mm)~I'm quite aware that this one is "fix" for Note 4s already experiencing emmc bug. Or is it something that's inevitable and probably die again within months or years?
Any suggestion is greatly appreciated.
Thanks!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
My understanding of the eMMC chip failure is following: it is due to the crack in the soldering. Have a vague memory of reading that Samsung even got sued for using bad materials. Anyway - Some temporarily fix the issue with cardbord (linked above), which then i believe works simply by pressing the components together and thus in best case re-establishing the electric contact within the circuit. Tried that myself, didn't work for me. Certain apps will perhaps help just a period of time by tweaking some settings, which i believe relieves the pressure off of the chip. To hold the phone in the freezer every now and then to get it to start is just not feasable. Did that too, works for a while, again, probably due to the material shrinking a bit in the cold thus making components connect again. What remains for me to try is actually having it in the oven for couple of minutes (yes, people have tried that too... ). I have a couple of old spare ones so it's not bigger shame if they break completelly.
But these are all my experiences with workarounds/temporary fixes when issue ALREADY is there.
I did replace a few motherboards. Those i orderered came with Marshmallow, which i was happy with. Don't know where you ordered yours from, I got mine from China but no issues anyway. If you got it from China, check the IMEI number tho. Specially the motherboards on older phones can suffer from bad IMEIs. Also use some app that can see in the system if it is the right chip you have, otherwise trying to flash custom roms might not end well…
My experience has so far been good. After replacement i played with both stock and custom roms and so far nothing broke again after more than half a year. As for your question of prevention - so far i haven't found anything that would lead me to believe that it might prevent it from happening again. So i got me a spare Note4. And a couple of spare motherboards in case they break. I don't really want to open those i use as daily drivers, since they never really feel as tight afterwards. And as far as i understand, there is no way to predict if your motherboard is going to break. So it's a gamble.
Edit:
And a friendly piece of advice regarding the replacement itself: take your time and preferably couple of valiums. I armed myself with lots of videos on youtube on how to do it so I started thinking i was a pro, which i clearly wasnt so i didn't take the time. So i took me a couple of broken screens before i mastered the art of … not breaking the screen. Not every time at least…
Use heat gun. Right tools. And did i mention to take your time?
Btw - the two connectors (you'll see which ones i mean in due time) are a pain to connect. THERE you can use some padding to sort of lift the connectors that are on the phone so that the connectors on the motherboard can click in them more easily.
Good luck!
prkfsz said:
I did replace a few motherboards.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
HI - did you replaced a MB from a Snapdragon variant with another MB from Exynos variant, please?
Like I have my son's 910F and I'd like to buy a replacement MB of 910C.
Any experience on this? I understood from other users that there are some issues with cameras. Probably no show stopper for me, but just to confirm if that's the case and if after replacing cameras all was ok.
Apologize to OP ( @mikel023 ) for intrusion.
Thanks.
w41ru5 said:
HI - did you replaced a MB from a Snapdragon variant with another MB from Exynos variant, please?
Like I have my son's 910F and I'd like to buy a replacement MB of 910C.
Any experience on this? I understood from other users that there are some issues with cameras. Probably no show stopper for me, but just to confirm if that's the case and if after replacing cameras all was ok.
Apologize to OP ( @mikel023 ) for intrusion.
Thanks.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I worked only with 910F, that meant replacing Snapdragon with same version of Snapdragon. So i can't say anything about that kind of issues.
prkfsz said:
I worked only with 910F, that meant replacing Snapdragon with same version of Snapdragon. So i can't say anything about that kind of issues.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
thanks
prkfsz said:
My understanding of the eMMC chip failure is following: it is due to the crack in the soldering. Have a vague memory of reading that Samsung even got sued for using bad materials. Anyway - Some temporarily fix the issue with cardbord (linked above), which then i believe works simply by pressing the components together and thus in best case re-establishing the electric contact within the circuit. Tried that myself, didn't work for me. Certain apps will perhaps help just a period of time by tweaking some settings, which i believe relieves the pressure off of the chip. To hold the phone in the freezer every now and then to get it to start is just not feasable. Did that too, works for a while, again, probably due to the material shrinking a bit in the cold thus making components connect again. What remains for me to try is actually having it in the oven for couple of minutes (yes, people have tried that too... ). I have a couple of old spare ones so it's not bigger shame if they break completelly.
But these are all my experiences with workarounds/temporary fixes when issue ALREADY is there.
I did replace a few motherboards. Those i orderered came with Marshmallow, which i was happy with. Don't know where you ordered yours from, I got mine from China but no issues anyway. If you got it from China, check the IMEI number tho. Specially the motherboards on older phones can suffer from bad IMEIs. Also use some app that can see in the system if it is the right chip you have, otherwise trying to flash custom roms might not end well…
My experience has so far been good. After replacement i played with both stock and custom roms and so far nothing broke again after more than half a year. As for your question of prevention - so far i haven't found anything that would lead me to believe that it might prevent it from happening again. So i got me a spare Note4. And a couple of spare motherboards in case they break. I don't really want to open those i use as daily drivers, since they never really feel as tight afterwards. And as far as i understand, there is no way to predict if your motherboard is going to break. So it's a gamble.
Edit:
And a friendly piece of advice regarding the replacement itself: take your time and preferably couple of valiums. I armed myself with lots of videos on youtube on how to do it so I started thinking i was a pro, which i clearly wasnt so i didn't take the time. So i took me a couple of broken screens before i mastered the art of … not breaking the screen. Not every time at least…
Use heat gun. Right tools. And did i mention to take your time?
Btw - the two connectors (you'll see which ones i mean in due time) are a pain to connect. THERE you can use some padding to sort of lift the connectors that are on the phone so that the connectors on the motherboard can click in them more easily.
Good luck!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I expect to receive the new motherboard within this week and I already disassembled it in advance. I managed to almost separated the lcd screen to the motherboard tray because I didn't watch closely enough the tutorial that I'm following to and I wedged the prying tool parallel to the screen. Fortunately, nothing cracked and it seems the screen held up fine, (well.. hopefully.. still crossing my fingers 'til the motherboard arrives. lol)
By the way, I have a few questions regarding on reassembling it back. First, can I replace the thermal pads with thicker one? 1 or 2mm thick is what I can buy here locally. And second, can I use something like B7000 glue to reattach the screen to the frame? I'm gonna put it along the red line shown on the image below.
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I'm looking forward to "that connector". I hope it doesn't give me too much headache. lol
Thanks!
mikel023 said:
I expect to receive the new motherboard within this week and I already disassembled it in advance. I managed to almost separated the lcd screen to the motherboard tray because I didn't watch closely enough the tutorial that I'm following to and I wedged the prying tool parallel to the screen. Fortunately, nothing cracked and it seems the screen held up fine, (well.. hopefully.. still crossing my fingers 'til the motherboard arrives. lol)
By the way, I have a few questions regarding on reassembling it back. First, can I replace the thermal pads with thicker one? 1 or 2mm thick is what I can buy here locally. And second, can I use something like B7000 glue to reattach the screen to the frame? I'm gonna put it along the red line shown on the image below.
I'm looking forward to "that connector". I hope it doesn't give me too much headache. lol
Thanks!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Regarding thermal pads i am reasoning this way: given the supposed cause of the issue, installing thermal pads would perhaps only delay the outbreak of the issue for a while, should it occure. Putting too much thermal pads would on the other hand perhaps put too much physical strain strain on the circuits, well, depending on how soft or hard they are. So if you're planning on scraping the old thermal pads, i'd go with 2mm ones, otherwise 1mm.
Please remember tho that i am not an expert even tho i did read up considerably about the issue. So i cannot guarantee one approach or the other is the right one.
As for the glue, i never used it. Used one of these instead:
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/328...earchweb0_0,searchweb201602_,searchweb201603_
Reason i never used the glue is that it's not unusual that after you assemble stuff, it turns out something is not working right so you have to disassemble. Then you make everything work, assemble it again, and then something won't work anyway. Especially so when you are still learning. So i never dared using glue because having to open it again after having used glue would make one glorious mess. I was learning and, well, playing. Besides, like i said, i never had to disassemble any of my daily drivers so it didn't matter that they perhaps don't seem to sit 100% tight.
prkfsz said:
Regarding thermal pads i am reasoning this way: given the supposed cause of the issue, installing thermal pads would perhaps only delay the outbreak of the issue for a while, should it occure. Putting too much thermal pads would on the other hand perhaps put too much physical strain strain on the circuits, well, depending on how soft or hard they are. So if you're planning on scraping the old thermal pads, i'd go with 2mm ones, otherwise 1mm.
Please remember tho that i am not an expert even tho i did read up considerably about the issue. So i cannot guarantee one approach or the other is the right one.
As for the glue, i never used it. Used one of these instead:
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/328...earchweb0_0,searchweb201602_,searchweb201603_
Reason i never used the glue is that it's not unusual that after you assemble stuff, it turns out something is not working right so you have to disassemble. Then you make everything work, assemble it again, and then something won't work anyway. Especially so when you are still learning. So i never dared using glue because having to open it again after having used glue would make one glorious mess. I was learning and, well, playing. Besides, like i said, i never had to disassemble any of my daily drivers so it didn't matter that they perhaps don't seem to sit 100% tight.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Just for update, the motherboard finally arrived today and mounted it temporarily yet just to test it. I'm still waiting for the adhesive and the thermal pad before I can seal everything shut. I tried to connect it to charger and the vibrator motor "bleeps" for few millisecond but the screen didn't turned on. Does this just mean that I didn't connected the connectors at the back properly? I only tried it once and I didn't put a padding like what you've said on the connectors yet.
mikel023 said:
Just for update, the motherboard finally arrived today and mounted it temporarily yet just to test it. I'm still waiting for the adhesive and the thermal pad before I can seal everything shut. I tried to connect it to charger and the vibrator motor "bleeps" for few millisecond but the screen didn't turned on. Does this just mean that I didn't connected the connectors at the back properly? I only tried it once and I didn't put a padding like what you've said on the connectors yet.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You mean the battery indicator doesn't come on on the screen when you connect the device to charger? Can't really say, i think it should come on, yes. To check that - when charging, try and press the start button shortly, that usually wakes it up and it will show the battery indicator on the screen if you connected the MB properly. But why don't you try and start it up if you got the new MB connected? Then you can see if it works and if it's connected properly.
Usually if you get the connectors right, you will hear a 'click' when they connect.
prkfsz said:
You mean the battery indicator doesn't come on on the screen when you connect the device to charger? Can't really say, i think it should come on, yes. To check that - when charging, try and press the start button shortly, that usually wakes it up and it will show the battery indicator on the screen if you connected the MB properly. But why don't you try and start it up if you got the new MB connected? Then you can see if it works and if it's connected properly.
Usually if you get the connectors right, you will hear a 'click' when they connect.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Another update, I took my time connecting the new MB but still, the screen won't turn on just like the first time I connected it just to test. The LED lights up red indicating that it's charging and I connected it to my PC and it shows up on the device manager. When I press the power button, it vibrates indicating that it is indeed turning on. Also tried entering to recovery and download mode with no avail.
it's really just the screen is refusing to connect or something. I already shoved a piece of cardboard to the connectors and I hear a satisfying click when pushing the MB in place. Should I just keep trying on reconnecting the mb?
P.S: I'm starting to think that I might just killed the screen accidentally.
mikel023 said:
Another update, I took my time connecting the new MB but still, the screen won't turn on just like the first time I connected it just to test. The LED lights up red indicating that it's charging and I connected it to my PC and it shows up on the device manager. When I press the power button, it vibrates indicating that it is indeed turning on. Also tried entering to recovery and download mode with no avail.
it's really just the screen is refusing to connect or something. I already shoved a piece of cardboard to the connectors and I hear a satisfying click when pushing the MB in place. Should I just keep trying on reconnecting the mb?
P.S: I'm starting to think that I might just killed the screen accidentally.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Check thoroughly up close the integrity of the LCD directly under the glass. If it's broken, then there will sometimes be very tiny cracks in it.
But of course try and re-connect everything again. Don't forget the Little black screw on the left hand side of the MB when you're reconnecting it. Sometimes it won't work without that screw in place. Try also and remove the extra thermal pads you said you would install.
PS. There are LCDs for N4 on aliexpress that nowadays don't go for much. Tried several sorts and they usually work good.
If it's any consolation, the N4 is apparently one of the trickiest devices to work with…
I can confirm that, to some degree, snapdragon and exynos motherboards are compatible.
I had a N910A with a defective mobo and a N910U with a cracked screen. So I placed the N910U mobo in the N910A body. I used 910U modems and everything works fine, with the exception of s pen silo detection, which could be a result of this.