Ok so, I work in a phone repair shop.
Today a guy came in with 2 6P's. One with battery issues, one with BLOD.
Well I tried the software fix for him for the BLOD 6P.....no dice. So he said, you take it. I have no use for a brick.
Well guess what phone I'm writing this on ?
So I tried a couple different flashes of software, different ROMs, stock and otherwise with the 4 core fixes and twrp. Saw no life regardless.
So I thought, nothing to lose, let's see what I can do.
First though was to just heat the SOC and see what happens, still nothing. Just a basic heating nothing extreme. I've brought back a few devices just doing a basic heating before (iPhone and Android)
Obviously not the case here.
So with nothing left to use I went extreme.
Removed the EM shield. Sat with the heat gun on the SOC (moving around slowly of course) till I smelt the sweet sweet smell of solder. As soon as I did I took these little clamps we have for holding down screens like iPads, and used a single one to ensure the SOC was held down to the board. Let it cool.
Then cleaned up the paste, and took some thermal pads from a broken screen Samsung a5 2017 we had. And replaced the old paste with those pads( a little cutting required) replaced both on top of the SOC and on top of the shield.
Put back together, and 4 hours after receiving it in bootloop this 6p booted up with all 8 cores running like a beast!
Don't know how long this will last, hopefully for a long time. We're going on almost 24 hours now so here's hoping ?
On another note, I plan to tear down the A5 screen for the copper heatpipe tommorow and replace the EM shield thermal pad with the heatpipe and see how that goes.
Hopefully this mini guide can help someone out who may be more willing to go all out to fix their fancy brick ?
UPDATE:
Heat pipes have been added.
Applied Arctic silver 5 with a copper shim directly on the SOC.
Put the em shield back on, took copper "heatpipes" from a Sony z5 screen, and noticed how thin they were. Arctic silver on the EM shield, cut a large piece of copper from the back of a Samsung S5 screen, then cut that into 2 pieces to about 3x1". To simulate proper "heatpipes."
Sat the copper pieces in the spot the EM shield sits and re-assembled.
Phone is still working just fine, I've been monitoring temps and the 4 bad cores. They haven't had an issue and the SOC sits at idle at 32°
I decided to stress it a little bit with multiple apps running, split screen YouTube(1080p60fps) and facebook. Max temp it hit was 37°.
Using "CPU Monitor" from the play store for this information.
And currently using it as my daily driver as my own sort of stress test lol
Nice...
are you able to boot into recovery before heating up the soc??
Mine unable to boot to recovery at all cost...
Tried heating with heat gun at soc but still unable to boot recovery...
ronald_loulan said:
Nice...
are you able to boot into recovery before heating up the soc??
Mine unable to boot to recovery at all cost...
Tried heating with heat gun at soc but still unable to boot recovery...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Were you running android pie before it started bootlooping?
imjuz4you said:
Were you running android pie before it started bootlooping?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
1st bootloop was on 7.1 and suscessfully rebooted.
So I quickly flash 4 core mod.
After 1 month of battery replacement the device bootloop forever.
It survived for 2months+ from the day I flash 4 core mod.
I tried oreo and with 4core mod and etc but failed.
Moved to hardware repair, as above but still failed.
It bootloop and unable to boot into TWRP, not even booting TWRP thru ADB.
I can't say without having the device on hand, and running some tests. But from what your describing and the processes you've tried it sounds to me like the flash storage chip may be your issue. Either it's doing the same as the SOC and slowly separating from the board, or it's a generally bad chip.
Just taking an educated guess so don't take my word for it lol
However, to answer your original question (I'm sorry I didn't see it)
When the phone was booplooping I was UNABLE to access recovery, even after flashing an OS, however I was able to adb transfer and flash twrp without any issues.
Romain1911 said:
However, to answer your original question (I'm sorry I didn't see it)
When the phone was booplooping I was UNABLE to access recovery, even after flashing an OS, however I was able to adb transfer and flash twrp without any issues.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You mean adb push file.zip?
ronald_loulan said:
You mean adb push file.zip?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes
Tried that but my device doesn't boot into recovery...
Romain1911 said:
Yes
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
When the phone was not working you was able to send with adb files to it? This is strange. Normaly you can then just flash with fastboot (fastboot flash recovery filenname.img) the 4 core twrp and from there on you can use usb file transfer to load for example your LineageOS and after flashing lineage os, you then configure the kernel with N5X-6P_BLOD_Workaround_Injector_Addon-AK2-signed.zip . This have really not worked (to make the phone usable with just 4 cores) but reheating the SOC worked?
Can you explain some more in detail what temperature (in celsius) you have used to make the solder of the soc fluid again?
Did you think this would also work when you just have a regulated SMD soldering station and no other tools? I ask that because you told that you have been using some other tools to hold something (if i understood you right).
nexus 6p BLOD
whats up guys, i have a nexus 6p with BLOD, i am unable to flash the 4 core fix provided by XDA due to USB debugging being disabled before the loop. is my only option to dissasemble and go for a reflow of the cpu? or is there anything i can do using fastboot or adb? cheers
You dont need usb-debugging. You need a unlocked bootloader. You unlock the bootloader with "fastboot oem unlock" when your phone is in bootloader mode. It does not matter what Android you have installed when your bootloader is unlocked or unlockable.
If you have missed to enable the option to unlock the bootloader previous, then you have to heat up your phone to boot up once and then immidietly enable the option to unlock the bootloader.
But thats all not relevant in this thread. This thread is about fixing up the SoC again and not for "getting it at work again with just 4 cores". There are ton of other forum posts that cover that.
ncc8uetou5et said:
You dont need usb-debugging. You need a unlocked bootloader. You unlock the bootloader with "fastboot oem unlock" when your phone is in bootloader mode. It does not matter what Android you have installed when your bootloader is unlocked or unlockable.
If you have missed to enable the option to unlock the bootloader previous, then you have to heat up your phone to boot up once and then immidietly enable the option to unlock the bootloader.
But thats all not relevant in this thread. This thread is about fixing up the SoC again and not for "getting it at work again with just 4 cores". There are ton of other forum posts that cover that.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
well i have no way of getting the phone on, i cannot unlock the bootloader due to allow bootloader unlock not being enabled. i dont have access to settings. ive heated the phones exterior to no avail. so i will have to dissasemble it and fix the soc so yes i am on the right thread thanks.
ncc8uetou5et said:
When the phone was not working you was able to send with adb files to it? This is strange. Normaly you can then just flash with fastboot (fastboot flash recovery filenname.img) the 4 core twrp and from there on you can use usb file transfer to load for example your LineageOS and after flashing lineage os, you then configure the kernel with N5X-6P_BLOD_Workaround_Injector_Addon-AK2-signed.zip . This have really not worked (to make the phone usable with just 4 cores) but reheating the SOC worked?
Can you explain some more in detail what temperature (in celsius) you have used to make the solder of the soc fluid again?
Did you think this would also work when you just have a regulated SMD soldering station and no other tools? I ask that because you told that you have been using some other tools to hold something (if i understood you right).
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes it worked just fine sending files too it however the 4 core fix still did not work hence why I went into the hardware method.
If I remember correctly the heat gun was set to max for this, so in our case it stops at about 430°.
As for it working without other tools, I can't say.
What was used is a clamp that we use in my shop to hold down screens that have been just been replaced so that the glue solidifies with the screen held down.
I can only assume that the clamp held it down so that the solder would make proper contact while it re-solidified, at least that was my hope when I clamped the chip down. Whether or not it was the main reason for it working I can't say, and at my shop we lack the hardware to do a full chip removal, re-ball, or anything of that sort unfortunately.
Cpu reflow
Romain1911 said:
Ok so, I work in a phone repair shop.
Today a guy came in with 2 6P's. One with battery issues, one with BLOD.
Well I tried the software fix for him for the BLOD 6P.....no dice. So he said, you take it. I have no use for a brick.
Well guess what phone I'm writing this on
So I tried a couple different flashes of software, different ROMs, stock and otherwise with the 4 core fixes and twrp. Saw no life regardless.
So I thought, nothing to lose, let's see what I can do.
First though was to just heat the SOC and see what happens, still nothing. Just a basic heating nothing extreme. I've brought back a few devices just doing a basic heating before (iPhone and Android)
Obviously not the case here.
So with nothing left to use I went extreme.
Removed the EM shield. Sat with the heat gun on the SOC (moving around slowly of course) till I smelt the sweet sweet smell of solder. As soon as I did I took these little clamps we have for holding down screens like iPads, and used a single one to ensure the SOC was held down to the board. Let it cool.
Then cleaned up the paste, and took some thermal pads from a broken screen Samsung a5 2017 we had. And replaced the old paste with those pads( a little cutting required) replaced both on top of the SOC and on top of the shield.
Put back together, and 4 hours after receiving it in bootloop this 6p booted up with all 8 cores running like a beast!
Don't know how long this will last, hopefully for a long time. We're going on almost 24 hours now so here's hoping
On another note, I plan to tear down the A5 screen for the copper heatpipe tommorow and replace the EM shield thermal pad with the heatpipe and see how that goes.
Hopefully this mini guide can help someone out who may be more willing to go all out to fix their fancy brick
UPDATE:
Heat pipes have been added.
Applied Arctic silver 5 with a copper shim directly on the SOC.
Put the em shield back on, took copper "heatpipes" from a Sony z5 screen, and noticed how thin they were. Arctic silver on the EM shield, cut a large piece of copper from the back of a Samsung S5 screen, then cut that into 2 pieces to about 3x1". To simulate proper "heatpipes."
Sat the copper pieces in the spot the EM shield sits and re-assembled.
Phone is still working just fine, I've been monitoring temps and the 4 bad cores. They haven't had an issue and the SOC sits at idle at 32°
I decided to stress it a little bit with multiple apps running, split screen YouTube(1080p60fps) and facebook. Max temp it hit was 37°.
Using "CPU Monitor" from the play store for this information.
And currently using it as my daily driver as my own sort of stress test lol
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hey man, im in the same boat with my nexus 6p.. when reflowing the SOC do i need to use any flux ?
cheers
dyl2526 said:
Hey man, im in the same boat with my nexus 6p.. when reflowing the SOC do i need to use any flux ?
cheers
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Eh, when I did it I did not use any. But that was for lack of having any, otherwise I would have used it lol
So I would use flux for sure
Legend
Romain1911 said:
Eh, when I did it I did not use any. But that was for lack of having any, otherwise I would have used it lol
So I would use flux for sure
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks for the reply man, I’m new enough to this so what’s the best type of flux for this phone or is there one that’s good for smartphones in general?
dyl2526 said:
Thanks for the reply man, I’m new enough to this so what’s the best type of flux for this phone or is there one that’s good for smartphones in general?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
No worries, Novacan old Masters flux in an 8oz bottle is what we usually use here, just didn't have any at the time. It's on Amazon, and fairly cheap.
This is exactly what I thought was going to work, just never had another 6P to give it a whirl. I have brought back numerous dead-GPU laptops this way by resetting the solder. Getting it to 385-400°F for 10 minutes and letting it cool reset the solder and allowed the GPU to work like new again (although results varied). No telling how long this will last but glad to see it worked on a phone.
My Nexus 6p today almost completely dead, I was flashing a ROM bootloggers android 9.0 and before finishing flashing the cell phone has been. off and now when trying to turn it on, Eve does not get anything, I connect it to the computer and it is detected as QS-loader-9008 or something like that, from what I have read it is a hard brick, I will try to make a complete rework to the SoC of the processor to see what happens I would like to know if someone here has done it before to guide me
Related
I bought a friend of mine a LG G2 and within a couple weeks she managed to have it take a drink. The horror on my face was, well, horrifying when i was told. Anyways about the phone.........
She knew to immediately put the phone in rice which she did.a few days later i get the phone into my hands, moment of truth right? First thing i did was to take it apart and see if there's any corrosion on the board or any leftover residue which i found none. reassembled the device and plugged it in for........well i dont know why, i just did. I read online if the phone shuts off immediately after contact with water your chances are good. Anyways the phone showed signs of life. It began booting up past the LG logo to the boot animation of "Desolation ROM" where it freezes and than loops freezing at different times of the boot logo.
Download mode works so i decided to flash the KDZ 20C. The phone boots up entirely into the OS and works with few *issues. Two things i have problems with, the internal storage doesnt appear** on the computer regularly, and i must "adb reboot recovery" a few times before it successfully will boot into recovery. but i can manage with that. I rooted it through sideload, installed autoRec and got TWRP flashed and working. I did flash the new TWRP so that it mounts the storage to computer. anyways so i went to flash the rom, Desolation, Resurrection Remix, and Bliss pop with the same issues. ive dont everything multiple times already to no avail.
Ideas? anyone?
*issues: it thinks the headphone are plugged it and rapidly cycles the animation.
** it varies from one flash of the KDZ to the other i can "adb Push file /sdcard/"
Solution: buy her an old Nokia
Buy a new logic board.
Sounds like this one is toast
tiguy99 said:
Buy a new logic board.
Sounds like this one is toast
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
what i dont get it why can i still get the OS working if i flash the KDZ??? or is this the type of weirdness that comes with a water damaged device?
me myself and i said:
what i dont get it why can i still get the OS working if i flash the KDZ??? or is this the type of weirdness that comes with a water damaged device?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
From my experience over the years water damage is a 50/50 shot.
On one hand you get a 100% recovered device with minor repair...i.e replace battery and or LCD and you're good to go.
On another hand you have weird malfunctions i.e headphone jack saying its plugged in when its not....dead wifi, dead vibrate, no data connection...the list can go on and on...
When this happens, unless you're skilled to replace the ICs on the logic board with some skillful soldering, I'd pass and either sell or use the phone for parts.
Start fresh with another used G2....maybe one with a broken screen you can get cheap and swap parts over to your phone.
Oh yeah...have your friend buy herself an S6 Active...
tiguy99 said:
From my experience over the years water damage is a 50/50 shot.
On one hand you get a 100% recovered device with minor repair...i.e replace battery and or LCD and you're good to go.
On another hand you have weird malfunctions i.e headphone jack saying its plugged in when its not....dead wifi, dead vibrate, no data connection...the list can go on and on...
When this happens, unless you're skilled to replace the ICs on the logic board with some skillful soldering, I'd pass and either sell or use the phone for parts.
Start fresh with another used G2....maybe one with a broken screen you can get cheap and swap parts over to your phone.
Oh yeah...have your friend buy herself an S6 Active...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
"active" been hearing that a lot lately.........hard to believe i could be more reckless than i am with my M8 though but than again i dont drop that into water..............
Mashed_Potatoes said:
Solution: buy her an old Nokia
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Prefer an 3310 one eheh
me myself and i said:
"active" been hearing that a lot lately.........hard to believe i could be more reckless than i am with my M8 though but than again i dont drop that into water..............
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Have seen a few logic boards in ebay sell cheap the last 2 weeks. You may get lucky and replace the board with a newer/better condition one and fix your problem entirely.
I'd recommend buying a new battery too
tiguy99 said:
Have seen a few logic boards in ebay sell cheap the last 2 weeks. You may get lucky and replace the board with a newer/better condition one and fix your problem entirely.
I'd recommend buying a new battery too
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
ive been noticing that the battery was giving issues or seems to be inadequate to say the least
me myself and i said:
ive been noticing that the battery was giving issues or seems to be inadequate to say the least
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
How does the screen look?
I'd inspect the LCD and light box underneath to be safe as well.
If both look like new you're safe there.
Basically:
New logic board
New battery
New screen (if necessary )and youre good to go
tiguy99 said:
How does the screen look?
I'd inspect the LCD and light box underneath to be safe as well.
If both look like new you're safe there.
Basically:
New logic board
New battery
New screen (if necessary )and youre good to go
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The screen looks good actually..............at first there was a portion that seemed to be washed out.......but a few days later i noticed that it was gone..........
me myself and i said:
The screen looks good actually..............at first there was a portion that seemed to be washed out.......but a few days later i noticed that it was gone..........
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That's good!!!
First and foremost, I don't promise this will fix anything as it has only worked for myself, but let me share my experience/journey and see if this can help at least another person in the same boat as I am.
If you do not want to read the entire story, feel free to skip to the break below.
Back story:
I got the phone in Hong Kong back in November. It's a 505 H815TR. (Don't ask me why I ended up with a Turkish phone, I have no idea)
The phone worked fine for about two weeks, then it would one day start to restart randomly. It also started happening more and more frequent, and the phone might fail to boot at all.
Sometimes it would just freeze on a screen and there'll be artifacts like the GPU overheated. When that happens the phone wouldn't even respond to a hard power-off (holding power for 4 seconds+) and I'd have to take out the battery.
Unfortunately for me, I have since went overseas and LG would not honour the motherboard swap. I also didn't want to sell this otherwise great new phone to another unfortunate soul either. So I'm stuck with the few hundred bux worth of not-quite junk. Determined to not let the money go to waste, I still tried to use it as a daily driver but it had gotten so bad at one point that I had to keep taking the battery off and restarting every few minutes during a meeting like an idiot.
So I tried upgrading the firmware, in hopes that it'll at least improve the situation. It was the 20c firmware. I used LGUP to upgrade it and it got better, if only for a while.
I thought, hey it ran better! Maybe I can stick it out, and sucker up the less frequent restarts. It will run okay for a week or so with occasional restarts. Then it suddenly got bad one day I opened up Maps for navigation. It would suddenly go back to a few restarts an hour.
At this point my hypothesis is that apps/sensors that would require a hike in power can trigger the crash. (duh!) So I turned off Bluetooth/GPS/disable every other app that I can think of. While it help a BIT, it certainly did not alleviate the problem. It had only gotten worse as time goes.
A few weeks went by, 20d came around. Hoping situations would improve, I upgraded the phone.
The problem got WORSE. I thought that's weird, the new version should have came with optimizations and gave less work the phone - hence it should freeze less. Puzzled and disappointed, I flashed back to 20c and was prepared to bite the bullet and accept it as lost cause. To my surprise however, when 20c finished generating cache and booted up, things started looking better again. It would run a few DAYS without problems. I got even more confused. If the problem was purely triggered by spikes of load, going back to the old firmware should have little to no effect. Something else must be going on. Before long, the problems came back and I'm plagued by the restarts again.
I came up with 2 possible hypotheses:
1 - It had something to do with cache
2 - It had something to do with Doze optimizations
Number 2 was easy to test. I went to settings and ignored every possible optimization (****ty UI on that screen by the way. It takes forever to scroll to anything and the checkboxes don't save until you exit the menu. When a restart hits before I exit the menu all progress is lost and I had to start from beginning :crying: ). I ran for a few more days and it seemed to have little impact.
So I was fairly confident at one point that it had to do with cache. Unfortunately, the G4 (at least my G4) does not have an easy access to erasing cache (which was incredibly annoying LG!). The so-called stock recovery only has an option to wipe the phone and obviously I didn't want to do that. I also did not want to temper with bootloader for the same reasons aside from the risk of bricking the phone. I had remembered that when I upgraded the firmware the cache gets wiped and it'll be regenerated on first boot. So I thought I'll just flash the same firmware and I'll be done! To my demise, apparently flashing the same kdz does NOT trigger the cache generation process. What I had to do was to flash 20d, boot that, and flash 20c again.
Things started to look better here. It ran fine. It did not crash for about a week or so. I thought it was a fair compromise. I can deal with a quick refresh(flashing 20d and then 20c again) once a week. Whenever I see signs of the restarts, I would quickly refresh when I got home that evening and it will be good for a week or so. Here I was ready to finalize my theory until...
It crashed. Soon after one of my routine refresh. I thought this was interesting? If it had to do with some kind of cache buildup, surely it would not crash right after a refresh? What's weirder still was it stopped doing that after 2-3 times. Something ELSE MUST be contributing to this. What else was related to the process of cache generation that could affect the stability of my system?
Here ladies and gentlemen, is what my little pea brain have came up with, through trial and error, no engineering background, limited tech knowledge, and limited common-sense:
It had to do with the activity of the CPU; or more precisely, it may have to do with the extended heating process that caused some component around the area to change in some kind of state, and thus improving the stability for a duration until it gradually changes back with time.
Engineers are probably laughing at me right now. I know it probably makes no sense, but it's the best that I can come up with. So I come to you guys, maybe some may help shed some light on this issue that plagues those of us who are stuck with the problematic phones that are not eligible for exchanges/repairs.
Anyway, to test my theory out, I downloaded some kind of stress tester from Google Play (I used StabilityTest v2.7)
I would wait until the phone starts restarting again (and it will, and when it does happen the stability dropped SHARPLY, from no restarts to maybe 2-3 an hour).
Then, I would run StabilityTest. I chose the classic stability test, and just let it run.
The first time it ran, it did not survive the first 10-15 mins. The phone would restart, and I would try again.
This time it ran for 2 hours without restarting (double the time needed for generating cache twice on my phone). I manually stopped the test and started using it normally.
Lo and behold! It was rock solid stable! No crashes, no matter what I did! Wifi, bluetooth, GPS, games, maps, youtube,... all of the above?!
And it would stay this way for me for about 2 weeks. When the phone starts restarting again, I would run the stress tester for a couple of hours, and it would be stable again.
I have since tried the 20d firmware, which also ran fine. I also flashed 20e yesterday, and so far it has been very smooth. I have tried various amounts of times like 1hr, 3hrs, 10hrs, but it would seem that going longer than 3hrs have no impact on the interval between restarts. So personally I find 2hrs will last me 2weeks or so and that works best for me.
I may not have completely solved the problem, and I still don't understand why it works, but it is sort of working for me.
And I hope it would work for you as well!
So here you go! And thanks for reading this unnecessarily long post!
TL;DR
Summary - I have found that by putting the cpu on load for an extended amount of time will dramatically increase the stability of the problematic phone. Here's something you can try:
Disclaimer: I do not guarantee this will work on your phone. I am no engineer. I take no responsibility if it causes any problem on your phone or if it explodes. That being said, it has worked for me. Please try at your own risk!
1. Make sure the area is well ventilated, the phone has sufficient battery or is charging.
2. Download and run "StabilityTest (ROOT Optional)" from Play Store.
3. Run "CLASSIC STABILITY TEST"
4. Let it run for at least 2 hours. If your phone restarts during the test, try again.
*However I would keep an eye on the temperature. I normal at around 50-60 Celsius.
5. It SHOULD be okay now. Depending on how bad your particular problem is, you may have to repeat this process every week or two. Experiment with different load times and see where your sweet spot is.
Thanks,
cbpneuma
Thanks for writing up your experience and theory. I wonder if the additional stress load is generating a large amount of heat that is curing some type of mechanically related electrical fault like a cold solder joint or marginally loose connection.
Some people bake or freeze their phones once the phone is continuously bootlooping so that they can get it to boot up and stay operational long enough to pull their data off the phone.
LG should take responsibility of their shoddy product and replace all affected serial numbers now without questions or provide a 3 year extended warranty.
Wow
That's great TC.
This is the first real lead that anyone has made ( to my knowledge)
And may be why LG is quiet on the cause of the hardware failures
Similar heading would help red ringed Xbox 360 and yellow light ps3's back in the day
cbpneuma said:
Engineers are probably laughing at me right now. I know it probably makes no sense, but it's the best that I can come up with. So I come to you guys, maybe some may help shed some light on this issue that plagues those of us who are stuck with the problematic phones that are not eligible for exchanges/repairs.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Not laughing if anything your patience and dogged determination is inspiring.
Great write up
I have found out something !!!
After 6 months of use of my LG G4 H815 S/N 509 Germany... When I put it over heavy load and let it heat up pretty well ( about 70-80 degrees Celsius ) I used to take the back cover off !!! I smelled it several times through out this period !!! And guess what I used to smell ??? The smell of flux !!! which shouldn't be there... I used to work daily fixing Mobos and PCBs so I know how flux smells like !!! My theory is that there is an excess of flux with the solder on the board and as we know flux helps solder to melt at lower temps, so at certain high temps on the G4, flux is slightly boiling... which is causing these fumes ( no smoke though !!! ) !!! Which could cause either of both:
1. An isolation if flux wastes get between the solder and the PCB !!!
2. If solder is deforming or melting which might cause loose contact between the components and the PCB !!!
How to fix this, it is all about burning the flux away without causing damage to the mobo :
1. Heat the hell out of your LG G4 while it is sitting still on a table !!! ( AND I REPEAT, SITTING STILL !!! NOT MOVING AROUND !!! )
2. The better solution would be to fix it like we fix GPUs !!! And this will burn the flux away so the solution should work...
a. Disassembled your LG G4 and remove your mobo.
b. Turn on your oven and heat it to 200 Degrees Celcsus .
c. Place your mobo on the Aluminium foil stand onto a cooking sheet or Aluminium foil with the EMI shield Up.
d. Once Oven has reached the 200 Degrees Celsius... place it into the Oven and bake it for 7 min.
e. When time up, leave the Oven door opened and the it stand or cool down for at least 60 min. (but I recommend you wait 120 min. to be on the safe side !!! ). Do not touch it or move it or eat it ( LOL, that sounded dirty... ) !!! Be patient.
f. Finally, reassemble your G4 and turn it on !!! It should work fine now !!!
Don't attempt this fix unless you are aware of what you are doing !!! And only if LG refused to fix your precious device !!! Don't attempt to fix it if you lack the required experience and skills !!! Learn how to do things first...
" DISCLAIMER: "
I am not responsible of any damage you cause to your device, yourself, your surroundings... or even your entire god damn country !!! LOL... I am not responsible if you cause a thermonuclear war or get the USA and Russia into war trying to fix your device !!! So please be aware of what you are doing and be careful !!!
BTW I hear a weird sound ( similar to spinning HDD if you ever heard one ) coming from the SoC area on the LG G4 when I put it under heavy load !!! I wonder if it is normal or due to the loose contact which usually causes similar sounds to come out of electronic components !!! Does anyone else hear that ??? Is it normal ???
( btw before you start saying that, I know smartphones don't have HDDs !!! I was just describing the sound !!! )
Just a comment... flux does not actually lower the melting point of solder, but rather helps it to flow better to the metal traces of the components and printed circuit board.
From Wikipedia (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Flux_(metallurgy))
In high-temperature metal joining processes (welding, brazing and soldering), the primary purpose of flux is to prevent oxidation of the base and filler materials. Tin-lead solder (e.g.) attaches very well to copper, but poorly to the various oxides of copper, which form quickly at soldering temperatures. Flux is a substance which is nearly inert at room temperature, but which becomes strongly reducing at elevated temperatures, preventing the formation of metal oxides. Additionally, flux allows solder to flow easily on the working piece rather than forming beads as it would otherwise.
The role of a flux in joining processes is typically dual: dissolving of the oxides on the metal surface, which facilitates wetting by molten metal, and acting as an oxygen barrier by coating the hot surface, preventing its oxidation. In some applications molten flux also serves as a heat transfer medium, facilitating heating of the joint by the soldering tool or molten solder.
cbpneuma said:
First and foremost, I don't promise this will fix anything as it has only worked for myself, but let me share my experience/journey and see if this can help at least another person in the same boat as I am.
If you do not want to read the entire story, feel free to skip to the break below.
Back story:
I got the phone in Hong Kong back in November. ...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Very interesting. Keep in mind that almost all of the bootloop problems are fatal - the phones won't boot up unless placed in a freezer, and eventually many of those phones won't boot up at all, even if placed in freezer. And the oven method doesn't provide for a long term fix.
For most of us, once it starts to bootloop, the phone is basically dead.
kwarwick said:
Just a comment... flux does not actually lower the melting point of solder, but rather helps it to flow better to the metal traces of the components and printed circuit board.
From Wikipedia...
In high-temperature metal joining processes (welding, brazing and soldering), the primary purpose of flux is to prevent oxidation of the base and filler materials. Tin-lead solder (e.g.) attaches very well to copper, but poorly to the various oxides of copper, which form quickly at soldering temperatures. Flux is a substance which is nearly inert at room temperature, but which becomes strongly reducing at elevated temperatures, preventing the formation of metal oxides. Additionally, flux allows solder to flow easily on the working piece rather than forming beads as it would otherwise.
The role of a flux in joining processes is typically dual: dissolving of the oxides on the metal surface, which facilitates wetting by molten metal, and acting as an oxygen barrier by coating the hot surface, preventing its oxidation. In some applications molten flux also serves as a heat transfer medium, facilitating heating of the joint by the soldering tool or molten solder.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You probably misunderstood me... But it is okay !!!
Flux helps the solder to melt faster ( not lowering the melting point of solder ) cuz it allows better heat transfer... It also helps soder to better stock to the PCB and the terminals of electronic components !!!
Flux with solder works like oil when you want to fry potatoes... It will make them get cooked faster !!! Without oil they will take longer time !!! I hope you get my point....
starfcker69 said:
Very interesting. Keep in mind that almost all of the bootloop problems are fatal - the phones won't boot up unless placed in a freezer, and eventually many of those phones won't boot up at all, even if placed in freezer. And the oven method doesn't provide for a long term fix.
For most of us, once it starts to bootloop, the phone is basically dead.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I feel like this more because of the **** implementation of CPU, since I disabled 2 main cores almost 3 or 4 weeks ago my phone is running pretty well and I'm even on a custom ROM.
Adam Myczkowski said:
I feel like this more because of the **** implementation of CPU, since I disabled 2 main cores almost 3 or 4 weeks ago my phone is running pretty well and I'm even on a custom ROM.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
What was your phone doing before you disabled those two main cores and do you feel any performance decrease with them disabled?
divineBliss said:
What was your phone doing before you disabled those two main cores and do you feel any performance decrease with them disabled?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
My wasn't completely dead, it was booting up sometimes, rarely but usually in the really low temps, I tried baking the mobo, worked for few hours and phone died, I put thermal pads on all the components what made pressure on them pushing them apart into the processor, phone worked, but again in REALLY low temps if it got up to like 27•C the phone constantly rebooting. ( I was on stock Marshmallow btw ). Then I found this reddit thread about disabling big cores, somehow it worked. Works only on 5.1, just saying. Anyway even though I disabled only 2 cores, the phone have been booting up only on 1 (WTF), what made it really slow and laggy. Fortunately, if you root your device you can enable all 4 cores in device manager. Or if you have H815 with unlocked bootloader as I do, you can flash any AOSP, CM, AOKP etc based ROM, with root and enable all for cores as well, I don't feel that big difference since I'm on pure android really. I already found a bug that disabling 2 cores is causing, on SUPERXE AOSP ROM this is somehow causing lockscreen settings to crash as I am not able to have any screen lock, weird bug... I didn't try any other ROMs.
I have seen a lot of posts about the 6p bootloop that can't be fixed with factory image. I repair electronics (tv's, phones, game systems, laptops, tablets, blah,). I have fixed a number of G4's and a 5X hardware induced bootloop by reflowing the processor, and or RAM block. I suspect since the 810 in the 6P runs even hotter that the 808 and since Huawei used cheap thermal compound to dissipate heat that the same thing is happening here. I haven't got my hands on one yet to test my theory, and hopefully mine won't be the first! I believe I read that Google blames it on the hardware too, but that's no surprise. The EPA encouraged then mandated the use of lead free solder years ago in home electronics to lessen the impact on the environment. Unfortunately lead free solder is not as strong as leaded solder, especially in high temp applications. This is what caused the PS3 yellow light of death and the 360 red ring of death, lead free solder + heat and inadequate cooling = microscopic cracks of the solder under the processor.
tldr; Has anyone out of warranty tried reflowing the processor to fix a bootloop on the 6p? I have use of a hot air station at work and I'd be willing to test my theory on one if all hope is lost and someone needs their data back. A reflow is often a temporary fix on any device but I would apply good thermal pads and thermal compound to replace Huawei's cheap stuff, so who knows.
Hey there! I'm just following up on if you had any findings to share. I have a buddy's 6P that he's desperate to get data off of. I've seen vids of people reflowing the 5X chip and wasn't sure why I don't see that for the 6P. I had a couple of 5Xs come and go, and really got them going to recover data the same ways; heating up the chip/connection. The 6P I have boots further with heat, but still wont load all the way. About to buy a hot air soldering station to try, but if you had results to confirm, i'd feel better about it.
TanDaMan99 said:
Hey there! I'm just following up on if you had any findings to share. I have a buddy's 6P that he's desperate to get data off of. I've seen vids of people reflowing the 5X chip and wasn't sure why I don't see that for the 6P. I had a couple of 5Xs come and go, and really got them going to recover data the same ways; heating up the chip/connection. The 6P I have boots further with heat, but still wont load all the way. About to buy a hot air soldering station to try, but if you had results to confirm, i'd feel better about it.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hi, I never ended up reflowing a 6p so not sure if reflow will fix it. Have you seen this thread?
https://forum.xda-developers.com/nexus-6p/general/guide-fix-nexus-6p-bootloop-death-blod-t3640279
hawkswind1 said:
Hi, I never ended up reflowing a 6p so not sure if reflow will fix it. Have you seen this thread?
https://forum.xda-developers.com/nexus-6p/general/guide-fix-nexus-6p-bootloop-death-blod-t3640279
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks for the quick reply! Haven't seen that particular thread but the information looks familiar. The problem I'm running into is that the bootloader is still locked on the phone I have; and I've yet to have been able to get android for me to fully boot to unlock it. Maybe more heat I suppose.
TanDaMan99 said:
Thanks for the quick reply! Haven't seen that particular thread but the information looks familiar. The problem I'm running into is that the bootloader is still locked on the phone I have; and I've yet to have been able to get android for me to fully boot to unlock it. Maybe more heat I suppose.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yep more heat sounds good lol. And then head right to developer options and enable oem unlocking and adb debugging and install modified twrp and boot image
so..
i bought a G4 H812 canadian off Kijiji (our local buy and sell like craigs list kinda thing) $50 no battery stuck in HS-USB 9008.
invested another $22 in a battery from a friend. now total invested into a possible bricked device... $72.. not to bad, a risk yes... but i had luck and confidence!
excellent screen scratch wise but had delamination all around the screen (see pic 1)
so with a half charged new battery, a possible bricked g4, and some previous knowledge and repair skills, i went to work.
tried QPST... nadda. tried LGUP... nadda. tried lg flashtool... guess what.. yup.. nothing... felt like friends repair shop was last left option...
but im a scrooge, and determined
so i took to youtube and google, found out it may have been one of a possible recall phones that had the thermal bootloop issue or emmc failure..
grabbed my custom heatgun and blasted it at 275 for 3min.. 3" away in circle patterns, just like most unbrick guides.. and left it cool for 30min.
put it back together and powered on to find it boot just fine not needing no relfash, had a pattern lock, contacted original owner the seller, got lock off,
wiped personals and internal storage, and found it was on 6.0.1... DAMN... no root possible.
go to downgrade and it doesnt, error's out before can even do anything, i forget, com41 change required...
so go to reboot and it stops booting again, but really warm... overheat issue again...
repeat the process many times trying to get to usable home screen as it would just keep freezing.. so i really examined all the phones parts and noticed... pic2 this really crappy black thermal tape, right where the main emmc and cpu is... kinda silly for such a heat hog i thinks.. so looking at the rf shield on phone where cpu is they also have this really ****ty goldish shield tape that on the reverse side is plasticy feeling.. not good for thermals i think.. so i tore it off, and removed that black thermal tape, cleaned top of cpu, heatgunned again this time at 300 for 2 1/2min. 2.5" away circulars, twice, 30 min cooldowns between.
took a light blue 1mm thick heatpad i found from a ddr3 ram stick heatshield, cut it to shape of cpu, and placed on top, also placed a piece on the slightly smaller black chip to the upper left of cpu, and also on the what i believe to be the power control ic on the opposite side of board, so that all possible sources of higher heat had thermal pads and better conductivity.
placed phone all back together, screwed all screws finger tight, placed sim card and sd and battery, back cover.. and hoped to god.. press power..
boots up nice and quick, hot at first after a factory wipe in recovery, like kinda scary hot at first then slowly cools...
its been running for almost 2 days now.. no slowdowns, no sluggish, does get warm when charging as expected.
but so far, ive been able to use sixaxis controller app, my ps3 controller, moonlight for root, and stream wildlands from my pc for almost 2 hrs,
charge up a bit, play Bully and run 3dmark for a while, and while it does get warm, its not near as bad as it used to be, i think something went right this time
its almost upon its 3rd full day of use without bootloop or overheat, mind u i am also using v4 CTT cpu mod
have xposed installed and root on 5.1 and am happy its still running so far.
so yeah, if this continues to run ill keep updating post when and if something happens to the device..
if it keeps running every two days ill update, and then this may just be a way to self fix the overheat bootloop cpu issues most of us have face i bet!
if you try this, let me know if it works for you.. id be happy to know im not the only one
I'm glad you got it working! Yeah this has been brought up here before on getting it working or putting in the oven etc lol. But it will eventually fail again there's no complete fix sadly. But hope it lasts you long I loved the G4 but the boot loop issues really gave it a bad rap.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Will follow this, keep us updated !!
I have done this already and I can assure you it's won't last. Nice work but you are being too optimistic. Without going into too much detail, the problem with the soc will slowly get worse the more you use the phone and putting heatsinks only slows down the rate at which it gets worse and does't stop it altogether. You haven't fixed the underlying issue. That's why it will fail again eventually.
My lg g4 had bootlooped issue too. Everything I did didn't solved the problem . From freezer to oven , and disabling two big core to remaining in only one core the device bootlooped everytime. Now what I did was : First I opened a device , remove the upper golden colour cover enclosing the processor, put some thin paper covering both processor and ram. Then put everything on their respective place. Then I turned a device it booted up. Downgraded to lollipop , disabled the big core using .tot method , rooted my LG G4 and enabled four core using free app by stojshic (Kudos to him: https://forum.xda-developers.com/g4/themes-apps/root-4-cores-activator-t3538175) . The device is working fine since week . I've restarted the device many times to check whether I will get bootloop again, played games like clash of royale for 2 hours etc. The device is working fine with less heating. The main culprit is I guess golden cover shield which is worsening overheating issue . The CPU generates heat and the cover shield is increasing thermal cycle . If by any means a thin better insulator is kept between the CPU and covering shield, this may solve the bootloop problem
georgemb said:
My lg g4 had bootlooped issue too. Everything I did didn't solved the problem . From freezer to oven , and disabling two big core to remaining in only one core the device bootlooped everytime. Now what I did was : First I opened a device , remove the upper golden colour cover enclosing the processor, put some thin paper covering both processor and ram. Then put everything on their respective place. Then I turned a device it booted up. Downgraded to lollipop , disabled the big core using .tot method , rooted my LG G4 and enabled four core using free app by stojshic (Kudos to him: https://forum.xda-developers.com/g4/themes-apps/root-4-cores-activator-t3538175) . The device is working fine since week . I've restarted the device many times to check whether I will get bootloop again, played games like clash of royale for 2 hours etc. The device is working fine with less heating. The main culprit is I guess golden cover shield which is worsening overheating issue . The CPU generates heat and the cover shield is increasing thermal cycle . If by any means a thin better insulator is kept between the CPU and covering shield, this may solve the bootloop problem
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes but the the heat of the phone when your playing games and booting up will still effect the soc to get worse over time, just at a slower rate. Its not a case of "if it does't reach a certain temp it will be fine". It's a case of "the more heat the quicker it will bootloop, the less heat the slower it will take to bootloop" but either way it will get there eventually as the problem gets worse over time.
Any recommendations?
Can anyone recommend a copper heat tape (or something better) that would work to get my phone running again? It's overheating and therefore bootlooping, so I am curious if there is any specific things to look for or stay away from when buying something to fix this, however temporary it may be.
Copper is better conductor of heat .. So it will work as heat sink ..U can put thermal paste in between CPU and copper tape..
Check it out
youtu.be/G3dQdS1b0aw
Try it and report back
tnap1979 said:
so..
i bought a G4 H812 canadian off Kijiji (our local buy and sell like craigs list kinda thing) $50 no battery stuck in HS-USB 9008.
invested another $22 in a battery from a friend. now total invested into a possible bricked device... $72.. not to bad, a risk yes... but i had luck and confidence!
excellent screen scratch wise but had delamination all around the screen (see pic 1)
so with a half charged new battery, a possible bricked g4, and some previous knowledge and repair skills, i went to work.
tried QPST... nadda. tried LGUP... nadda. tried lg flashtool... guess what.. yup.. nothing... felt like friends repair shop was last left option...
but im a scrooge, and determined
so i took to youtube and google, found out it may have been one of a possible recall phones that had the thermal bootloop issue or emmc failure..
grabbed my custom heatgun and blasted it at 275 for 3min.. 3" away in circle patterns, just like most unbrick guides.. and left it cool for 30min.
put it back together and powered on to find it boot just fine not needing no relfash, had a pattern lock, contacted original owner the seller, got lock off,
wiped personals and internal storage, and found it was on 6.0.1... DAMN... no root possible.
go to downgrade and it doesnt, error's out before can even do anything, i forget, com41 change required...
so go to reboot and it stops booting again, but really warm... overheat issue again...
repeat the process many times trying to get to usable home screen as it would just keep freezing.. so i really examined all the phones parts and noticed... pic2 this really crappy black thermal tape, right where the main emmc and cpu is... kinda silly for such a heat hog i thinks.. so looking at the rf shield on phone where cpu is they also have this really ****ty goldish shield tape that on the reverse side is plasticy feeling.. not good for thermals i think.. so i tore it off, and removed that black thermal tape, cleaned top of cpu, heatgunned again this time at 300 for 2 1/2min. 2.5" away circulars, twice, 30 min cooldowns between.
took a light blue 1mm thick heatpad i found from a ddr3 ram stick heatshield, cut it to shape of cpu, and placed on top, also placed a piece on the slightly smaller black chip to the upper left of cpu, and also on the what i believe to be the power control ic on the opposite side of board, so that all possible sources of higher heat had thermal pads and better conductivity.
placed phone all back together, screwed all screws finger tight, placed sim card and sd and battery, back cover.. and hoped to god.. press power..
boots up nice and quick, hot at first after a factory wipe in recovery, like kinda scary hot at first then slowly cools...
its been running for almost 2 days now.. no slowdowns, no sluggish, does get warm when charging as expected.
but so far, ive been able to use sixaxis controller app, my ps3 controller, moonlight for root, and stream wildlands from my pc for almost 2 hrs,
charge up a bit, play Bully and run 3dmark for a while, and while it does get warm, its not near as bad as it used to be, i think something went right this time
its almost upon its 3rd full day of use without bootloop or overheat, mind u i am also using v4 CTT cpu mod
have xposed installed and root on 5.1 and am happy its still running so far.
so yeah, if this continues to run ill keep updating post when and if something happens to the device..
if it keeps running every two days ill update, and then this may just be a way to self fix the overheat bootloop cpu issues most of us have face i bet!
if you try this, let me know if it works for you.. id be happy to know im not the only one
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Can anyone recommend a copper heat tape (or something better) that would work to get my phone running again? It's overheating and therefore bootlooping, so I am curious if there is any specific things to look for or stay away from when buying something to fix this, however temporary it may be.
@ezzony was right, mine finally took a permanent dump last week after 3 more reheat attempts since last post, but it atleast lasted this long..
now im on a heavily modified Huawei Nova Plus converted from a MLA-L03 to a CAN-L11 software wise, so i could get perfect rooted Lineage OS 13 on it and xposed
i miss the camera of the g4 so much...
i still have my dead board Note 4, note 4 edge also dead board, and lg g4 dead board, all cause of same problems SOC overheats
seems like it was a common problem amongst tons of models too.... sad that we the paying customer get shoddy manufactured devices that we end up paying so much for...
georgemb said:
Copper is better conductor of heat .. So it will work as heat sink ..U can put thermal paste in between CPU and copper tape..
Check it out
youtu.be/G3dQdS1b0aw
Try it and report back
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks a bunch! That's the exact video I've been watching and the most helpful too. I am just not sure if there are different sizes in thickness that are more conducive or not. Also, are there different strengths of copper to resist higher temperatures? I'm learning all of this through google, so I'm sure I sound as savvy as I am with technology.
tnap1979 said:
@ezzony was right, mine finally took a permanent dump last week after 3 more reheat attempts since last post, but it atleast lasted this long..
now im on a heavily modified Huawei Nova Plus converted from a MLA-L03 to a CAN-L11 software wise, so i could get perfect rooted Lineage OS 13 on it and xposed
i miss the camera of the g4 so much...
i still have my dead board Note 4, note 4 edge also dead board, and lg g4 dead board, all cause of same problems SOC overheats
seems like it was a common problem amongst tons of models too.... sad that we the paying customer get shoddy manufactured devices that we end up paying so much for...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Sorry to hear that, but yes I feel every G4 will suffer the same fate as in your case. Once it starts it won't keep running forever.
Yes the camera is awesome. The no.1 reason I love the G4 and no.2 reason is the textured leather curved back cover which makes holding the G4 very easy in the hand to manage, as it is a big phone. I was going to go with the G5 when my G4 died as it has the same camera but I really don't think it's as special as the G4. I picked up a new secondhand G4 with a serial number of 701 so I'm hoping the fault has been resolved in the newer version.
I'm not totally optimistic it wont suffer from the same problem in time though as I do feel it gets very hot that one can feel on the back cover . And the heatsink over the soc is virtually non existent in comparison to a Galaxy S6 I owned briefly which had a much more capable heat sink on it. I'm hoping the heatsink is not the problem and it was purely the chip itself, but I don't know for sure. I stuck a copper shim on the soc with some thermal paste anyway just in case, couldn't hurt.
I'd suggest to anyone who like me loves the G4 then picking up a newer version with a serial number of 701 or above might not be a bad idea instead of messing around with a clearly faulty one that will fail on you possibly at a highly inconvenient moment.
tnap1979 said:
so..
i bought a G4 H812 canadian off Kijiji (our local buy and sell like craigs list kinda thing) $50 no battery stuck in HS-USB 9008.
invested another $22 in a battery from a friend. now total invested into a possible bricked device... $72.. not to bad, a risk yes... but i had luck and confidence!
excellent screen scratch wise but had delamination all around the screen (see pic 1)
so with a half charged new battery, a possible bricked g4, and some previous knowledge and repair skills, i went to work.
tried QPST... nadda. tried LGUP... nadda. tried lg flashtool... guess what.. yup.. nothing... felt like friends repair shop was last left option...
but im a scrooge, and determined
so i took to youtube and google, found out it may have been one of a possible recall phones that had the thermal bootloop issue or emmc failure..
grabbed my custom heatgun and blasted it at 275 for 3min.. 3" away in circle patterns, just like most unbrick guides.. and left it cool for 30min.
put it back together and powered on to find it boot just fine not needing no relfash, had a pattern lock, contacted original owner the seller, got lock off,
wiped personals and internal storage, and found it was on 6.0.1... DAMN... no root possible.
go to downgrade and it doesnt, error's out before can even do anything, i forget, com41 change required...
so go to reboot and it stops booting again, but really warm... overheat issue again...
repeat the process many times trying to get to usable home screen as it would just keep freezing.. so i really examined all the phones parts and noticed... pic2 this really crappy black thermal tape, right where the main emmc and cpu is... kinda silly for such a heat hog i thinks.. so looking at the rf shield on phone where cpu is they also have this really ****ty goldish shield tape that on the reverse side is plasticy feeling.. not good for thermals i think.. so i tore it off, and removed that black thermal tape, cleaned top of cpu, heatgunned again this time at 300 for 2 1/2min. 2.5" away circulars, twice, 30 min cooldowns between.
took a light blue 1mm thick heatpad i found from a ddr3 ram stick heatshield, cut it to shape of cpu, and placed on top, also placed a piece on the slightly smaller black chip to the upper left of cpu, and also on the what i believe to be the power control ic on the opposite side of board, so that all possible sources of higher heat had thermal pads and better conductivity.
placed phone all back together, screwed all screws finger tight, placed sim card and sd and battery, back cover.. and hoped to god.. press power..
boots up nice and quick, hot at first after a factory wipe in recovery, like kinda scary hot at first then slowly cools...
its been running for almost 2 days now.. no slowdowns, no sluggish, does get warm when charging as expected.
but so far, ive been able to use sixaxis controller app, my ps3 controller, moonlight for root, and stream wildlands from my pc for almost 2 hrs,
charge up a bit, play Bully and run 3dmark for a while, and while it does get warm, its not near as bad as it used to be, i think something went right this time
its almost upon its 3rd full day of use without bootloop or overheat, mind u i am also using v4 CTT cpu mod
have xposed installed and root on 5.1 and am happy its still running so far.
so yeah, if this continues to run ill keep updating post when and if something happens to the device..
if it keeps running every two days ill update, and then this may just be a way to self fix the overheat bootloop cpu issues most of us have face i bet!
if you try this, let me know if it works for you.. id be happy to know im not the only one
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It has been six months, does your lg g4 still working?
I ordered online a motherboard for my dead N910G due to EMMC bug and I'm thinking on what I'm gonna do to prevent It from happening again on the new motherboard. I didn't yet receive the new motherboard and I'm assuming that it is currently on Android 5.0.
Do I need to stay in Lollipop and don't bother to upgrade it to Marshmallow? Or maybe, put a custom rom instead? Or how about putting another layer of material between the emmc and the thermal pad(though, I'm thinking to replace the thermal pad with something thicker instead, maybe 2.0mm)~I'm quite aware that this one is "fix" for Note 4s already experiencing emmc bug. Or is it something that's inevitable and probably die again within months or years?
Any suggestion is greatly appreciated.
Thanks!
Did you read?
https://forum.xda-developers.com/note-4/help/100-fix-galaxy-note-4-emmc-error-random-t3859448
Heros2002 said:
Did you read?
https://forum.xda-developers.com/note-4/help/100-fix-galaxy-note-4-emmc-error-random-t3859448
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
i'm thinking of doing this too but this is more of a "fix" for note 4's that's already experiencing emmc errors instead of a prevention. But putting a fresh thermal pad can't really do harm so I might try to do this.
mikel023 said:
I ordered online a motherboard for my dead N910G due to EMMC bug and I'm thinking on what I'm gonna do to prevent It from happening again on the new motherboard. I didn't yet receive the new motherboard and I'm assuming that it is currently on Android 5.0.
Do I need to stay in Lollipop and don't bother to upgrade it to Marshmallow? Or maybe, put a custom rom instead? Or how about putting another layer of material between the emmc and the thermal pad(though, I'm thinking to replace the thermal pad with something thicker instead, maybe 2.0mm)~I'm quite aware that this one is "fix" for Note 4s already experiencing emmc bug. Or is it something that's inevitable and probably die again within months or years?
Any suggestion is greatly appreciated.
Thanks!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
My understanding of the eMMC chip failure is following: it is due to the crack in the soldering. Have a vague memory of reading that Samsung even got sued for using bad materials. Anyway - Some temporarily fix the issue with cardbord (linked above), which then i believe works simply by pressing the components together and thus in best case re-establishing the electric contact within the circuit. Tried that myself, didn't work for me. Certain apps will perhaps help just a period of time by tweaking some settings, which i believe relieves the pressure off of the chip. To hold the phone in the freezer every now and then to get it to start is just not feasable. Did that too, works for a while, again, probably due to the material shrinking a bit in the cold thus making components connect again. What remains for me to try is actually having it in the oven for couple of minutes (yes, people have tried that too... ). I have a couple of old spare ones so it's not bigger shame if they break completelly.
But these are all my experiences with workarounds/temporary fixes when issue ALREADY is there.
I did replace a few motherboards. Those i orderered came with Marshmallow, which i was happy with. Don't know where you ordered yours from, I got mine from China but no issues anyway. If you got it from China, check the IMEI number tho. Specially the motherboards on older phones can suffer from bad IMEIs. Also use some app that can see in the system if it is the right chip you have, otherwise trying to flash custom roms might not end well…
My experience has so far been good. After replacement i played with both stock and custom roms and so far nothing broke again after more than half a year. As for your question of prevention - so far i haven't found anything that would lead me to believe that it might prevent it from happening again. So i got me a spare Note4. And a couple of spare motherboards in case they break. I don't really want to open those i use as daily drivers, since they never really feel as tight afterwards. And as far as i understand, there is no way to predict if your motherboard is going to break. So it's a gamble.
Edit:
And a friendly piece of advice regarding the replacement itself: take your time and preferably couple of valiums. I armed myself with lots of videos on youtube on how to do it so I started thinking i was a pro, which i clearly wasnt so i didn't take the time. So i took me a couple of broken screens before i mastered the art of … not breaking the screen. Not every time at least…
Use heat gun. Right tools. And did i mention to take your time?
Btw - the two connectors (you'll see which ones i mean in due time) are a pain to connect. THERE you can use some padding to sort of lift the connectors that are on the phone so that the connectors on the motherboard can click in them more easily.
Good luck!
prkfsz said:
I did replace a few motherboards.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
HI - did you replaced a MB from a Snapdragon variant with another MB from Exynos variant, please?
Like I have my son's 910F and I'd like to buy a replacement MB of 910C.
Any experience on this? I understood from other users that there are some issues with cameras. Probably no show stopper for me, but just to confirm if that's the case and if after replacing cameras all was ok.
Apologize to OP ( @mikel023 ) for intrusion.
Thanks.
w41ru5 said:
HI - did you replaced a MB from a Snapdragon variant with another MB from Exynos variant, please?
Like I have my son's 910F and I'd like to buy a replacement MB of 910C.
Any experience on this? I understood from other users that there are some issues with cameras. Probably no show stopper for me, but just to confirm if that's the case and if after replacing cameras all was ok.
Apologize to OP ( @mikel023 ) for intrusion.
Thanks.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I worked only with 910F, that meant replacing Snapdragon with same version of Snapdragon. So i can't say anything about that kind of issues.
prkfsz said:
I worked only with 910F, that meant replacing Snapdragon with same version of Snapdragon. So i can't say anything about that kind of issues.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
thanks
prkfsz said:
My understanding of the eMMC chip failure is following: it is due to the crack in the soldering. Have a vague memory of reading that Samsung even got sued for using bad materials. Anyway - Some temporarily fix the issue with cardbord (linked above), which then i believe works simply by pressing the components together and thus in best case re-establishing the electric contact within the circuit. Tried that myself, didn't work for me. Certain apps will perhaps help just a period of time by tweaking some settings, which i believe relieves the pressure off of the chip. To hold the phone in the freezer every now and then to get it to start is just not feasable. Did that too, works for a while, again, probably due to the material shrinking a bit in the cold thus making components connect again. What remains for me to try is actually having it in the oven for couple of minutes (yes, people have tried that too... ). I have a couple of old spare ones so it's not bigger shame if they break completelly.
But these are all my experiences with workarounds/temporary fixes when issue ALREADY is there.
I did replace a few motherboards. Those i orderered came with Marshmallow, which i was happy with. Don't know where you ordered yours from, I got mine from China but no issues anyway. If you got it from China, check the IMEI number tho. Specially the motherboards on older phones can suffer from bad IMEIs. Also use some app that can see in the system if it is the right chip you have, otherwise trying to flash custom roms might not end well…
My experience has so far been good. After replacement i played with both stock and custom roms and so far nothing broke again after more than half a year. As for your question of prevention - so far i haven't found anything that would lead me to believe that it might prevent it from happening again. So i got me a spare Note4. And a couple of spare motherboards in case they break. I don't really want to open those i use as daily drivers, since they never really feel as tight afterwards. And as far as i understand, there is no way to predict if your motherboard is going to break. So it's a gamble.
Edit:
And a friendly piece of advice regarding the replacement itself: take your time and preferably couple of valiums. I armed myself with lots of videos on youtube on how to do it so I started thinking i was a pro, which i clearly wasnt so i didn't take the time. So i took me a couple of broken screens before i mastered the art of … not breaking the screen. Not every time at least…
Use heat gun. Right tools. And did i mention to take your time?
Btw - the two connectors (you'll see which ones i mean in due time) are a pain to connect. THERE you can use some padding to sort of lift the connectors that are on the phone so that the connectors on the motherboard can click in them more easily.
Good luck!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I expect to receive the new motherboard within this week and I already disassembled it in advance. I managed to almost separated the lcd screen to the motherboard tray because I didn't watch closely enough the tutorial that I'm following to and I wedged the prying tool parallel to the screen. Fortunately, nothing cracked and it seems the screen held up fine, (well.. hopefully.. still crossing my fingers 'til the motherboard arrives. lol)
By the way, I have a few questions regarding on reassembling it back. First, can I replace the thermal pads with thicker one? 1 or 2mm thick is what I can buy here locally. And second, can I use something like B7000 glue to reattach the screen to the frame? I'm gonna put it along the red line shown on the image below.
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I'm looking forward to "that connector". I hope it doesn't give me too much headache. lol
Thanks!
mikel023 said:
I expect to receive the new motherboard within this week and I already disassembled it in advance. I managed to almost separated the lcd screen to the motherboard tray because I didn't watch closely enough the tutorial that I'm following to and I wedged the prying tool parallel to the screen. Fortunately, nothing cracked and it seems the screen held up fine, (well.. hopefully.. still crossing my fingers 'til the motherboard arrives. lol)
By the way, I have a few questions regarding on reassembling it back. First, can I replace the thermal pads with thicker one? 1 or 2mm thick is what I can buy here locally. And second, can I use something like B7000 glue to reattach the screen to the frame? I'm gonna put it along the red line shown on the image below.
I'm looking forward to "that connector". I hope it doesn't give me too much headache. lol
Thanks!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Regarding thermal pads i am reasoning this way: given the supposed cause of the issue, installing thermal pads would perhaps only delay the outbreak of the issue for a while, should it occure. Putting too much thermal pads would on the other hand perhaps put too much physical strain strain on the circuits, well, depending on how soft or hard they are. So if you're planning on scraping the old thermal pads, i'd go with 2mm ones, otherwise 1mm.
Please remember tho that i am not an expert even tho i did read up considerably about the issue. So i cannot guarantee one approach or the other is the right one.
As for the glue, i never used it. Used one of these instead:
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/328...earchweb0_0,searchweb201602_,searchweb201603_
Reason i never used the glue is that it's not unusual that after you assemble stuff, it turns out something is not working right so you have to disassemble. Then you make everything work, assemble it again, and then something won't work anyway. Especially so when you are still learning. So i never dared using glue because having to open it again after having used glue would make one glorious mess. I was learning and, well, playing. Besides, like i said, i never had to disassemble any of my daily drivers so it didn't matter that they perhaps don't seem to sit 100% tight.
prkfsz said:
Regarding thermal pads i am reasoning this way: given the supposed cause of the issue, installing thermal pads would perhaps only delay the outbreak of the issue for a while, should it occure. Putting too much thermal pads would on the other hand perhaps put too much physical strain strain on the circuits, well, depending on how soft or hard they are. So if you're planning on scraping the old thermal pads, i'd go with 2mm ones, otherwise 1mm.
Please remember tho that i am not an expert even tho i did read up considerably about the issue. So i cannot guarantee one approach or the other is the right one.
As for the glue, i never used it. Used one of these instead:
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/328...earchweb0_0,searchweb201602_,searchweb201603_
Reason i never used the glue is that it's not unusual that after you assemble stuff, it turns out something is not working right so you have to disassemble. Then you make everything work, assemble it again, and then something won't work anyway. Especially so when you are still learning. So i never dared using glue because having to open it again after having used glue would make one glorious mess. I was learning and, well, playing. Besides, like i said, i never had to disassemble any of my daily drivers so it didn't matter that they perhaps don't seem to sit 100% tight.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Just for update, the motherboard finally arrived today and mounted it temporarily yet just to test it. I'm still waiting for the adhesive and the thermal pad before I can seal everything shut. I tried to connect it to charger and the vibrator motor "bleeps" for few millisecond but the screen didn't turned on. Does this just mean that I didn't connected the connectors at the back properly? I only tried it once and I didn't put a padding like what you've said on the connectors yet.
mikel023 said:
Just for update, the motherboard finally arrived today and mounted it temporarily yet just to test it. I'm still waiting for the adhesive and the thermal pad before I can seal everything shut. I tried to connect it to charger and the vibrator motor "bleeps" for few millisecond but the screen didn't turned on. Does this just mean that I didn't connected the connectors at the back properly? I only tried it once and I didn't put a padding like what you've said on the connectors yet.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You mean the battery indicator doesn't come on on the screen when you connect the device to charger? Can't really say, i think it should come on, yes. To check that - when charging, try and press the start button shortly, that usually wakes it up and it will show the battery indicator on the screen if you connected the MB properly. But why don't you try and start it up if you got the new MB connected? Then you can see if it works and if it's connected properly.
Usually if you get the connectors right, you will hear a 'click' when they connect.
prkfsz said:
You mean the battery indicator doesn't come on on the screen when you connect the device to charger? Can't really say, i think it should come on, yes. To check that - when charging, try and press the start button shortly, that usually wakes it up and it will show the battery indicator on the screen if you connected the MB properly. But why don't you try and start it up if you got the new MB connected? Then you can see if it works and if it's connected properly.
Usually if you get the connectors right, you will hear a 'click' when they connect.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Another update, I took my time connecting the new MB but still, the screen won't turn on just like the first time I connected it just to test. The LED lights up red indicating that it's charging and I connected it to my PC and it shows up on the device manager. When I press the power button, it vibrates indicating that it is indeed turning on. Also tried entering to recovery and download mode with no avail.
it's really just the screen is refusing to connect or something. I already shoved a piece of cardboard to the connectors and I hear a satisfying click when pushing the MB in place. Should I just keep trying on reconnecting the mb?
P.S: I'm starting to think that I might just killed the screen accidentally.
mikel023 said:
Another update, I took my time connecting the new MB but still, the screen won't turn on just like the first time I connected it just to test. The LED lights up red indicating that it's charging and I connected it to my PC and it shows up on the device manager. When I press the power button, it vibrates indicating that it is indeed turning on. Also tried entering to recovery and download mode with no avail.
it's really just the screen is refusing to connect or something. I already shoved a piece of cardboard to the connectors and I hear a satisfying click when pushing the MB in place. Should I just keep trying on reconnecting the mb?
P.S: I'm starting to think that I might just killed the screen accidentally.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Check thoroughly up close the integrity of the LCD directly under the glass. If it's broken, then there will sometimes be very tiny cracks in it.
But of course try and re-connect everything again. Don't forget the Little black screw on the left hand side of the MB when you're reconnecting it. Sometimes it won't work without that screw in place. Try also and remove the extra thermal pads you said you would install.
PS. There are LCDs for N4 on aliexpress that nowadays don't go for much. Tried several sorts and they usually work good.
If it's any consolation, the N4 is apparently one of the trickiest devices to work with…
I can confirm that, to some degree, snapdragon and exynos motherboards are compatible.
I had a N910A with a defective mobo and a N910U with a cracked screen. So I placed the N910U mobo in the N910A body. I used 910U modems and everything works fine, with the exception of s pen silo detection, which could be a result of this.