Related
Hi,
I disassembled my N1 for changing the main flex cable (cutted power button) and in the disassembling procedure I noticed that one of the SMD components on the motherboard was de-soldered or not correctly soldered (twisted). I re-accommodated with a pair of tweezers and it did not hang loose (yet!).
What kind of function does this SMD do? Can I expect the phone to work?
I have experience with soldering iron but think this is too small for me.
I can't test it right now because my new main flex has not arrived yet.
Maybe you can solder it with an oven for CMS ?
firewave said:
Maybe you can solder it with an oven for CMS ?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'm not very familiar with oven soldering; dunno if I will kill other components or If i need some kind of flux.
Also a heat gun would do the work but probably desolder other components.
I broke off a couple of the smd components right next to that connector (the screen connection) they effect color on the screen. Mine showed only red after I broke 2. It was usable but not pretty.
Sent from my HTC Desire using Tapatalk
_Dennis_ said:
I broke off a couple of the smd components right next to that connector (the screen connection) they effect color on the screen. Mine showed only red after I broke 2. It was usable but not pretty.
Sent from my HTC Desire using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks for your answer.
You broke those very same components?
As soon as I get my main flex i will try it and see if it report problems. It probably will as that component is there for something.
You might be able to re-flow it with a heat gun.
Rusty! said:
You might be able to re-flow it with a heat gun.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks for your answer.
Actually I'm looking for a chinese reflow station with a hot air gun with a tiny nozzle. Probably will do the work but...
Should I use some kind of flux? Any recommendations? Never done a hot air reflow.
Looks like the same but hard to tell in the pics. I can't really see on my phone.
Sent from my HTC Desire using Tapatalk
that is a set of inline resistors, meaning it is quite a few connections, the best way is to use some flux from a needle and a soldering iron with a small tip,you could use a hot air machine but on a fully assembled board i would not recommend it.. flux is needed but you may be able to get away with a large soldering iron.
My advice would be to pay someone to fix it.. that way if they mess up ya get a new phone
Find someone with a reflow air knife, anyone who does SMT work would have one. It'd take 5 seconds to put that RP back on as long as you didn't break any of the pads doing whatever it is that you did that caused you to break it. Yikes.
May i ask you where u got the power cable? I need one too, how much was it? And is it hard to replace?
N1
I bought it on www.aliexpress.com
It was around USD$45.
I still don't receive it, as soon as I recive it I will report if the phone works and if it is an easy repair.
Best Regards.
The phone it's not turning on.
I tried it disassembled with the new main flex cable, motherboard and only lcd conencted.
Nothing happened when I press the power button.
The only sign of life is the ambar led that turns on when you connect the charger.
The tiny little SMD part fell off the mother board so it is completly unsoldered. Could this be the cause of not turning at all?
Looking forward to your answers.
Yes, if a single component is missing or even has a bridge in the solder, it could cause complete failure. There is a reason for it being there. If it were me, I would try to resolder it. Grab an iron and some wick and get what you can off of the board. Then try to reflow the part back on. If it works, great. If not, you still have a nice looking paperweight.
Well, I soldered the little SMD back with a soldering/hot air station but the motherboard still don't turn on.
It was working before, maybe I'm doing something wrong.
Thanks for your support.
After having no GPS for about a year and getting annoyed with it not working I accidentally found a post about soldering wire to the contacts.
Well, rather than soldering I wondered if I could make a little tin foil antenna. Works a treat!! Pics below:
Nice
Sent from my Desire HD using xda premium
Seems like a great idea,, much easier than soldering,,,, did you sandwich the foil between two pieces of paper ,, was it easy to clip it back together with this mod.
Very tempted to try it.
hi,im struggling with enanche GPS signal too. just two questions..is it just aluminium foil ( http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/1/12/Folie_2007.jpg ) or some other foil? and behind,is a piece of paper to cover motherboard contacts?
thanks in advance
20mark said:
hi,im struggling with enanche GPS signal too. just two questions..is it just aluminium foil ( http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/1/12/Folie_2007.jpg ) or some other foil? and behind,is a piece of paper to cover motherboard contacts?
thanks in advance
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Any conducting foil should be good enough if you ask me. But look at other threads - about resistance/lenght of the antenna etc. - this one is quite a guess, but should be better than not having antenna at all. By the way, if you have broken antenna (the cover), you could apply this patch to the cover leaving the spring contacts to do the resto fo the job.
And more... A new cover (antenna) on eBay is about 6 pounds? (10 euros?) - is it worth of making this by yourself when you can get a new cover?
19ninety said:
After having no GPS for about a year and getting annoyed with it not working I accidentally found a post about soldering wire to the contacts.
Well, rather than soldering I wondered if I could make a little tin foil antenna. Works a treat!! Pics below:
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Could you please post the URL to that web? I'd like to know how to open that cover
Thanks
rickowsky said:
Could you please post the URL to that web? I'd like to know how to open that cover
Thanks
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It's just round the corner:
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=1318892
Sent from my HTC Desire HD using xda app-developers app
nice~ thanks.. :laugh:
Template
Is it possible that you could upload a folding and cutting template? Also, (and I believe it was mentioned a bit back) it appears that you have a piece of paper behind the foil to prevent accidental contact with the board other than on the antenna points. Would something like this also work on the other antenna points?
Nice idea .. but i am afraid of shorting motherboard contacts... Perhaps any more detail from you in the long run would be appreciated...
Also my spring contact broke as soon as i tried to pull it up. so may be soldering a wire would fix my GPS!!!
Tried this. It helped a little but couldnt get a good connection and as soon as i moved the phone it would go
probably try to soldier a wire onto it
zphantom1 said:
Is it possible that you could upload a folding and cutting template? Also, (and I believe it was mentioned a bit back) it appears that you have a piece of paper behind the foil to prevent accidental contact with the board other than on the antenna points. Would something like this also work on the other antenna points?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Damn, sorry I missed all the replies!!!
So to make the template I used a craft knife and a board and trial and error cut the paper until it fitted correctly, once I have that done I used that as a template to make the foil.
I used the paper to prevent the foil from touching the motherboard. Its just regular kitchen foil.
To remove the cover I CAREFULLY used a razor blade to lift the side of the cover closest to the camera, its very tight the first time you try and open it, once it been off a couple of times its really easy to do.
To update this methods results, I found it worked for a while but then I started having GRP issues again. I was going to solder a wire in the instead but was due a upgrade so ... HOX ftw.
Soldering a wire in there would be pretty easy using a fine tip on a gas soldering iron, may be a bit more fiddly with a regular fixed bit electric iron but certainly doable. This would be a better fix, though have a look on fleaBay, it may be worth trying a new GPS cover ... I'm certain the issue lies with a really ****ty connection between the motherboard pins and the antenna points on the back of the cover and nothing else.
Sorry again for the slow replies guys, I posted and set for notifications and then forgot about it, was only by chance I found the notifs in my spam folder.
19ninety said:
After having no GPS for about a year and getting annoyed with it not working I accidentally found a post about soldering wire to the contacts.
Well, rather than soldering I wondered if I could make a little tin foil antenna. Works a treat!! Pics below:
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Really god work...
Thx... Going to try this.
Sent from DHD - Tapatalk
GPS FIX
If you flash the file attached to this reply it will fix your gps issues
If Im flashing it, some error occure and it is aborted.
Im doing something wrong.
Should I rename the file or something like it?
Thanks for reply.
Sent from DHD - Tapatalk
AndroidAdski said:
If you flash the file attached to this reply it will fix your gps issues
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
What does the zip do?
Sent from my GT-P1000 using xda app-developers app
this zip is probably from here:
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=1044992
oh and it didn't fix my gps issue....neither did flashing the newest radio or using solder....
19ninety said:
After having no GPS for about a year and getting annoyed with it not working I accidentally found a post about soldering wire to the contacts.
Well, rather than soldering I wondered if I could make a little tin foil antenna. Works a treat!! Pics below:
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
EDIT: Please dont jump into conclusions too soon as I did! At first I thought tha this fix was working 100% but I then noticed that although I (at last) had a signal it was too weak compared to a 'healthy' gps receiver and the phone lost it as soon as i got in a moving car or changed direction.
I used tinfoil from my kitchen, plain printer paper, a pair of scissors and a cheap modeling knife. I used the 'trial and error' method just like you said and cut out the paper for insulation first. I trimmed holes for the two flash leds and the strange circular part right next to them.. I then cut the tin foil a tad larger than the papers area and I folded its edges all around to keep it from falling apart.
Congratulations for thinking so cleverly. Thank you for uploading and sharing this fix.
zphantom1 said:
Is it possible that you could upload a folding and cutting template? Also, (and I believe it was mentioned a bit back) it appears that you have a piece of paper behind the foil to prevent accidental contact with the board other than on the antenna points. Would something like this also work on the other antenna points?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
With 19ninety's permission I could draft up a template for that and upload it later on.
With
mitmeister said:
Nice idea .. but i am afraid of shorting motherboard contacts... Perhaps any more detail from you in the long run would be appreciated...
Also my spring contact broke as soon as i tried to pull it up. so may be soldering a wire would fix my GPS!!!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
EDIT: My spring contact also broke apart but it seems to have little on this fix. If the tinfoil has enough width then it should lie correctly on what remains of the broken spring on the main board. The problem is that after a few days the tinfoil looses some of its width due to continuous stress that we apply on the phone (while holding it or having it in our pockets) and thus loosing contact
mmessass said:
This gps fix WORKS 100%. I just tried it and i got instant gps fix using gps test app. I used tinfoil from my kitchen, plain printer paper, a pair of scissors and a cheap modeling knife. I used the 'trial and error' method just like you said and cut out the paper for insulation first. I trimmed holes for the two flash leds and the strange circular part right next to them.. I then cut the tin foil a tad larger than the papers area and I folded its edges all around to keep it from falling apart.
Congratulations for thinking so cleverly. Thank you for uploading and sharing this fix.
With 19ninety's permission I could draft up a template for that and upload it later on.
With
My spring contact also broke apart but it seems to have no affect on this fix. If the tinfoil has enough width then it should lie correctly on what remains of the broken spring on the main board.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Sure you may make a template if it helps anyone else who has this issue
This is the way I fixed the wifi\bluetooth error with continuous rebooting on my Atrix.
I did not come up with it, and I do not guarantee it will work in your device, I'm simply sharing this because it's information that's hard to find and understand. I fixed my device in this way, so have others. I do not take responsability for any damage you might make to your device attempting this fix, and I do not claim it will work forever - it's been two days for me and still great!
For completeness sake, if you guys want to check other proposed fixes and some reasons why they might or might not work, here is this great post by mvniekerk, a person more far more knowlegble then me when it comes to these technological issues:
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=1655071
I'd also like to thank John-aurelio, junior member, who initially posted about this fix here:
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=1655071&page=4
All credit goes to him!
So, what did I do?
1) I cut out two rectagular pieces of plastic from a pill tin, glued them on top of each other with scotch tape. I think any thin piece of plastic should do.
2) Opened up my Atrix by removing screws with a T5 Torx screwdriver. If you don't know how to do this check out this teardown by ifixit: http://www.ifixit.com/Teardown/Motorola+Atrix+4G+Teardown/4964/1
3) Slightly raised the motherboard and placed the plastic rectangle under it, with a little bit sticking out into the battery compartment.
To my amazement it worked, it is still working.
I wanted to tell you guys why, but I don't know. Perhaps one of you guys wants to experiment applying pressure to each component separately to find out the culprit?
Also, I'm curious to know if this will work for all of you, or just some of you.
Here are the pics:
This last one is the piece of tin\plastic with tape, side by side with a pencil for scale. Its not the tin I used, but its basically the same, but the one I used has white paint, I don't know if should make a difference. If you're worried about shorts just cover the whole thing in tape or cut plastic from a bottle or something.
The first two are how its supposed to look in the end.
[EDIT]: Here are some more pics:
This is the piece of plastic I used. It doesn't show, but it is very thin, one milimiter thick, if even.
These are of the open device. In the last one the plastic piece is a little eschewed, but you get the idea.
Cheerios
Huh. This is similar to the fix some people did with the digitizer problem. Seems like the the connectors on this phone tend to come loose, to where pressure in the right direction will fix it.
Sent from my MB860 using xda app-developers app
Newbleeto said:
This is the way I fixed the wifi\bluetooth error with continuous rebooting on my Atrix.
I did not come up with it, and I do not guarantee it will work in your device, I'm simply sharing this because it's information that's hard to find and understand. I fixed my device in this way, so have others. I do not take responsability for any damage you might make to your device attempting this fix, and I do not claim it will work forever - it's been two days for me and still great!
For completeness sake, if you guys want to check other proposed fixes and some reasons why they might or might not work, here is this great post by mvniekerk, a person more far more knowlegble then me when it comes to these technological issues:
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=1655071
I'd also like to thank John-aurelio, junior member, who initially posted about this fix here:
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=1655071&page=4
All credit goes to him!
So, what did I do?
1) I cut out two rectagular pieces of plastic from a pill tin, glued them on top of each other with scotch tape. I think any thin piece of plastic should do.
2) Opened up my Atrix by removing screws with a T5 Torx screwdriver.
3) Slightly raised the motherboard and placed the plastic rectangle under it, with a little bit sticking out into the battery compartment.
To my amazement it worked, it is still working.
I wanted to tell you guys why, but I don't know. Perhaps one of you guys wants to experiment applying pressure to each component separately to find out the culprit?
Also, I'm curious to know if this will work for all of you, or just some of you.
Here are the pics:
This last one is the piece of tin\plastic with tape, side by side with a pencil for scale. Its not the tin I used, but its basically the same, but the one I used has white paint, I don't know if should make a difference. If you're worried about shorts just cover the whole thing in tape or cut plastic from a bottle or something.
The first two are how its supposed to look in the end.
Sorry for no open device pics, I did this yesterday and don't really feel like opening my phone, but if you guys think its needed I'll do it later.
Cheerios
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
A detailed How To to show us what to do exactly, we can do much ourselves with just this pics. :/
EDIT: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SYz_RiuFVRk had anyone seen this?
Will try this with my wifi broken atrix tomorrow.
guidoido004 said:
A detailed How To to show us what to do exactly, we can do much ourselves with just this pics. :/
EDIT: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SYz_RiuFVRk had anyone seen this?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It's literally as simple as opening the atrix and placing the plastic under the motherboard, I don't think it gets any easier then that. But I'll try to take more photos.
As for that video, there are reports of people killing their mobiles by breaking the piece holding the battery or killing the nearby ICs trying that. That guy is just too rough. Also, it doesn't show the battery actually being replaced. If you wanna try to replace the battery, better do it gently and stay clear of that video
Sent from my Nexus 7 using Tapatalk 2
If the solution is to apply pressure to certain parts of the board then it's likely similar to the infamous nVidia issues from around 2008 where the chips were getting hot enough to expand and brake the solder connection or in some cases, rip some of the pads from the board. If that is the case, be careful, as flexing the board the wrong way could eventually lead to making it worse over time.
I can't believe this actually worked. Been using my Atrix for the whole weekend on WIFI. Also finally been able to use my Lapdock properly.
Thanks so much for such a simple fix.
If its any help to anyone, I ended up using an old debit card, as its seems the perfect height to give enough pressure on the board.
It did take a few goes, but as long as you persist with it, it works really well. Plus no more over heating too.
Thanks again
holy crap. 5 minutes and its fixed! thank you
Cause found??
Hi everybody,
I might have an idea what causes the wifi errors. As the wifi gets fixed by changing the motherboard's position, the motherboard is not fastened properly. This might be caused by the vibration function that is located on the part of the motherboard you would need to move up.(see the location of the vibrationfuction in the attachment.)
If so, should this function be less used then?
Thanks Newbleeto! I was so frustrated with this issue. I was initially trying based that youtube video link by someone else which never worked for me. I later decided to try your solution and it worked for me the very first time Appreciate your help!
Thanks, seems to work!
What an interesting tweak. There some validity to this. The Atrix 4G is notorious for wifi, bluetooth, and GPS dropout. This is largely due to kernel and rom. However I have seem plenty of Atrix4Gs with loose antenna clamps. Usually I apply a little pressure in the outside of the clamp to reform it slightly so it will maintain hold on the reciever socket. Second thing I look at is the shielding around the mainboard. This acts as a heatsink and guard. If depressed in anyway will cause massive heating along with grounding. The antenna clusters are not well separated from RF interference from one another to begin with. Metal in general will restricted RF signals considerably depending on its frequency. The greater the frequency the lower it's ability to perpetrate materials.
From the looks of it your directing RF crossover and bounce back away from each antenna. This is a good thing. It also means as long as the phone is not held on its edge towards any receiving end it won't effect talk and data very much.
My experiments with the Atrix4G always had a bit of unpredictable outcome when it came to pressure on the ribbon connections. This would result in the screen blacking out, digitizer over sensitive or non responsive, failure to boot and so on. Pressure is a big deal with these phones so be careful.
Happy tinkering
IT WORKS
after nearly 4 months of this bug i finally had the guts to open up my phone and do this fix.
and it is working , my wifi is back thank you OP. :highfive::highfive::highfive::highfive::highfive::highfive::highfive::highfive::highfive::highfive::highfive::highfive::victory::victory:
This method works wonderfully. Thanks, OP!
sangyum said:
This method works wonderfully. Thanks, OP!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Spoke too soon. This fix stopped working after two days.... Back to Wifi Error and boot loop. :crying:
I got my wifi to work again, there are two snap on connectors on the same side of the phone. I put 2x pieces of toilet paper cardboard between the frame of the phone and the connector, pushing the connector tighter to the other side.
I'd like to confrm that it works to me !
Thank you, I spent dozens of hours to try solve it.
Newbleeto said:
This is the way I fixed the wifi\bluetooth error with continuous rebooting on my Atrix.
I did not come up with it, and I do not guarantee it will work in your device, I'm simply sharing this because it's information that's hard to find and understand. I fixed my device in this way, so have others. I do not take responsability for any damage you might make to your device attempting this fix, and I do not claim it will work forever - it's been two days for me and still great!
For completeness sake, if you guys want to check other proposed fixes and some reasons why they might or might not work, here is this great post by mvniekerk, a person more far more knowlegble then me when it comes to these technological issues:
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=1655071
I'd also like to thank John-aurelio, junior member, who initially posted about this fix here:
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=1655071&page=4
All credit goes to him!
So, what did I do?
1) I cut out two rectagular pieces of plastic from a pill tin, glued them on top of each other with scotch tape. I think any thin piece of plastic should do.
2) Opened up my Atrix by removing screws with a T5 Torx screwdriver. If you don't know how to do this check out this teardown by ifixit: http://www.ifixit.com/Teardown/Motorola+Atrix+4G+Teardown/4964/1
3) Slightly raised the motherboard and placed the plastic rectangle under it, with a little bit sticking out into the battery compartment.
To my amazement it worked, it is still working.
...
Cheerios
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I did this as well, and it's been working perfectly for over a week now. Battery life has tripled to 24h (back where it used to be, what a relief) and the wifi is back to being perfect.
In my case, I cut a small piece out of an old credit card and inserted into the section highlighted in the attached picture, inside to out (from the battery bay towards the side). There are flat cables/strips underneath and you probably don't want to insert your spacer material from the outside in. Make sure that the plastic strip fits completely underneath the board, otherwise you won't be able to properly close the back.
Thanks!
To add some data to this can all of you confirm the kernel and rom you are useing before and after this mod. Would help all of us in the future for reference. Thanks.
Cab121 said:
To add some data to this can all of you confirm the kernel and rom you are useing before and after this mod. Would help all of us in the future for reference. Thanks.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Sure, no problem!
Atrix 4G (Bell Canada)
Unlocked and rooted by yours truly (don't ask how, I'm still not sure I know what I did)
CynaogenMod 10.1 from epinter: Megathread or linuxmobile.org site, builds 2013-08-07 + hporch32 kernel (before and after mod) & 2013-08-26 + hporch32 kernel (after mod)
Radio: Telstra N_01.87.00R
Attempted to replace the battery on my 6P tonight. The "dreaded" visor came off without an issue, as did the bottom cover.
Screws out, didnt lose any. used an iSclack like tool to try and pop the frame out and ended up separating the LCD glass. OK, so thats shot....ordered a new one, easy enough.
Now I have the phone plugged into USB, but no charging light. ADB shell couldnt find the device, but I managed to boot into bootloader (fastboot ftw). I dont know the order of the options in bootloader, though....does anyone have those? I somehow managed to get the phone file system to show via USB, copying everything off right now (already had a backup, but checking to make sure USB is still working on it). Obviously there is life to the phone if I can get into fastboot, but the lack of LED charging light worries me a little.
If the digitizer is shot, would that cause the LED to not work? I didnt think so, but figured Id ask.
And if anyone can tell me the order of the options in bootloader (Recovery Mode, etc) it would be appreciated. Would like to know that I didnt completely kill the phone, or else Ill cancel the order for a new digitizer.
Thanks in advance.
-Chris
Hey, I'm kind of confused, you're not getting the LCD to turn on at all? What was it that you replaced? The top glass?
Did you maybe damage the ribbon under the battery?
LCD turns on but its like one or two lines of static across the screen. I wasn't replacing any screen part but it looks like the glass separated from the LCD and the LCD cracked. Once the glass separated it was done for anyway since it looks like a pita to replace just glass.
Ribbon cable is intact (screen was no longer working before I even attempted to remove battery), but replacement part comes with all new anyway
I did get the phone to boot up, recognized by adb eventually, and notification led, fingerprint scanner and vibration are all working. Looks like it'll be OK once screen is replaced. Not sure why adb didn't see it initially but it does now even after a couple shutdowns and reboots.
Sent from my LG-VS980 using Tapatalk
chrisexv6 said:
LCD turns on but its like one or two lines of static across the screen. I wasn't replacing any screen part but it looks like the glass separated from the LCD and the LCD cracked. Once the glass separated it was done for anyway since it looks like a pita to replace just glass.
Ribbon cable is intact (screen was no longer working before I even attempted to remove battery), but replacement part comes with all new anyway
I did get the phone to boot up, recognized by adb eventually, and notification led, fingerprint scanner and vibration are all working. Looks like it'll be OK once screen is replaced. Not sure why adb didn't see it initially but it does now even after a couple shutdowns and reboots.
Sent from my LG-VS980 using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Well I'm glad it's working! Let us know how the repair goes and if you need any help. And good luck!
Phillbert! said:
Well I'm glad it's working! Let us know how the repair goes and if you need any help. And good luck!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Will do. Im hopeful its just the LCD at this point (not sure anything else display-wise would cause this issue, maybe the GPU?) and Ill be good to go once its replaced.
New part should be here Saturday so Ill find out this weekend.
chrisexv6 said:
Will do. Im hopeful its just the LCD at this point (not sure anything else display-wise would cause this issue, maybe the GPU?) and Ill be good to go once its replaced.
New part should be here Saturday so Ill find out this weekend.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I doubt it's the GPU, you'd have other even weider issues. It's probably just a loose or corroded connection somewhere. The screens on these are not easy to work with, when I've fixed them, I just get the LCD/frame assembly.
If you need any help when getting it back together, let us know!
Phillbert! said:
I doubt it's the GPU, you'd have other even weider issues. It's probably just a loose or corroded connection somewhere. The screens on these are not easy to work with, when I've fixed them, I just get the LCD/frame assembly.
If you need any help when getting it back together, let us know!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks!
Nice to know someone has had the experience. Ill definitely be posting questions (or even better, a success story!)
Actually I do have a quesiton before I even start!
Since everything needs to be transferred over to the new frame, should I be replacing the thermal paste/pad that is on the back of the CPU board?
chrisexv6 said:
Actually I do have a quesiton before I even start!
Since everything needs to be transferred over to the new frame, should I be replacing the thermal paste/pad that is on the back of the CPU board?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes definitely! Make a note of what the thermal paste touches on the old frame and apply a generous amount to the new. I didn't put enough the first time. Too much won't hurt it (try not to clog those little holes on the board above the CPU area though.) Too much won't really hurt anything, but it won't help.
Phillbert! said:
Yes definitely! Make a note of what the thermal paste touches on the old frame and apply a generous amount to the new. I didn't put enough the first time. Too much won't hurt it (try not to clog those little holes on the board above the CPU area though.) Too much won't really hurt anything, but it won't help.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Darn, I dont have any thermal paste. Will have to order some up I guess.
Best Buy sells it..I think. It keeps the processor from overheating. So it's necessary, unfortunately.
Phillbert! said:
Best Buy sells it..I think. It keeps the processor from overheating. So it's necessary, unfortunately.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yeah I was able to order up some Noctua NH-T1 from Amazon. Expected delivery is Sunday...gotta love Prime!
So I got thermal PASTE, is that good enough for both outside AND inside the CPU cover? Looking at this mod since I have to have everything apart anyway: https://forum.xda-developers.com/nexus-6p/general/guide-improve-cooling-greatly-reduce-t3323898 and they used thermal PAD for inside the CPU cover.
EDIT: I might not pull the CPU cover off....even in that thread the OPs cover looked pretty well connected to the CPU with the thermal whatever Huwai used. I think Ill stick to adding my thermal paste on top of the frame before putting the CPU board back in.
Thanks.
-Chris
You mean the metal cover over the CPU itself? That thermal paste should be fine. It's sealed away from dust, and the phone isn't super old, so it's very unlikely to have hardened. You should be fine with just putting it on the outside.
I attached a picture I just took of a 6P I'm working on. Just because it's my way doesn't mean it's the best. But I've had no issues with overheating. And it's very similar to how it came from Huawei (though they made a big mess with it.)
Thanks. Thats about what I planned on doing....Ive done computer CPUs before, the classic "grain of rice", I figure Ill tone it down a bit since this is smaller but since I have a brand new tube Ill put a grain of rice on, put the cover on then pull it off to see what kind of coverage I get.
Hopefully this all goes well and Ill get a working N6P today or tomorrow.
I needed more than I thought I would. There's a surprising amount of space between the two parts.
I figured as much. The hard mod thread has a lot of people up in arms about how much the OP used but it makes sense if there is that much gap between parts. I will just apply it then put the cover on and remove the cover to check the coverage pattern. Wipe it off and apply same amount if it works or a bit more if it didnt.
Chances are anything I do will be better than what Huwei did.
OK, I have begun.
I did NOT realize how much stuff needs to be transferred over! I got the mobo, front camera and headphone jack out. USB board and black piece over it are also both out, but I cant get out the following:
battery (?) that connects under the USB daughterboard. The battery is out of the holder, but I cant get the ribbon cable off...any tips?
volume/power button ribbon - I have no idea where to even start with this one....its covered in black plastic where it is exposed to the phone case, and a ribbon cable adhered to the plate. Again, any tips?
Thanks in advance.
-Chris
chrisexv6 said:
OK, I have begun.
I did NOT realize how much stuff needs to be transferred over! I got the mobo, front camera and headphone jack out. USB board and black piece over it are also both out, but I cant get out the following:
battery (?) that connects under the USB daughterboard. The battery is out of the holder, but I cant get the ribbon cable off...any tips?
volume/power button ribbon - I have no idea where to even start with this one....its covered in black plastic where it is exposed to the phone case, and a ribbon cable adhered to the plate. Again, any tips?
Thanks in advance.
-Chris
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Under the battery you must be referring to the display cable. I have always replaced the display with mid-frame so not sure how you get that out. I think the cable is glued to the mid-frame, some light heat might help and then work it loose with a playing card. It's looks quite hefty for a ribbon cable.
I have replaced the volume buttons. Start by lifting the connection off the mid-frame with a small flat tool. From there it's glued to the side of the sub-frame and there is two small parts of the volume assembly that fold over onto the frame. Have a look at the blown up image of a replacement so you know what you're up against.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Camera-...e=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649
I see this is a very common problem with these phones. Except mine had snapped in half, and I was barely able to get the microSD card out. Now my SIM is stuck inside, along with the lower half of the tray. Issue is it's no longer under warranty. I've tried a few things, like holding it upside down and lightly thumping the top of the back/front with my palm. but that ****er just won't pop out. I'm leery of sticking anything inside there for fear of damaging anything, let alone attempting to pull it out with a cut credit card and a sliver of glue. I'm thinking I'll take it to a repair shop, but I heard that once it's taken apart, it loses its waterproof seal. Can anyone confirm this? Or offer some other advice?
GuyInDogSuit said:
I see this is a very common problem with these phones. Except mine had snapped in half, and I was barely able to get the microSD card out. Now my SIM is stuck inside, along with the lower half of the tray. Issue is it's no longer under warranty. I've tried a few things, like holding it upside down and lightly thumping the top of the back/front with my palm. but that ****er just won't pop out. I'm leery of sticking anything inside there for fear of damaging anything, let alone attempting to pull it out with a cut credit card and a sliver of glue. I'm thinking I'll take it to a repair shop, but I heard that once it's taken apart, it loses its waterproof seal. Can anyone confirm this? Or offer some other advice?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
With fricking care I put a drop of super glue on a toothpick and fished mine out is how I did mine 3 times. I've broke 4 trays. I got a feeling it's something to do with sd cards ever since I quit using a SD card I haven't broke not 1. It's a punk ***** and I don't know why Samsung wouldn't use the metal ttys like in the past. I have several posts on this issue myself.
Yes once disassembled you lose the water proofing. I had to send mine in for warranty and needed my sim out of it obviously. And those tards of coarse said of the tray is broke the warranty was voided so I did everything in my power to remove it. But I did 3 times over
TheMadScientist said:
With fricking care I put a drop of super glue on a toothpick and fished mine out is how I did mine 3 times. I've broke 4 trays. I got a feeling it's something to do with sd cards ever since I quit using a SD card I haven't broke not 1. It's a punk ***** and I don't know why Samsung wouldn't use the metal ttys like in the past. I have several posts on this issue myself.
Yes once disassembled you lose the water proofing. I had to send mine in for warranty and needed my sim out of it obviously. And those tards of coarse said of the tray is broke the warranty was voided so I did everything in my power to remove it. But I did 3 times over
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'm very leery of using anything to do with glue, to be honest. Though that looks like I will have to do exactly that, unfortunately.
GuyInDogSuit said:
I'm very leery of using anything to do with glue, to be honest. Though that looks like I will have to do exactly that, unfortunately.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I mean I literally used like a quarter drop on the very top tip. The credit card idea seams even better a bit more surface area. The second time my tray got stuck totally and I bit the bullet and forced it out and it split in the middle between the SD and sim. Left the second half in it. The eject button doesn't work any more when I put my tool in now I have to angle it and pull. I haven't broke it now in like 6 months since I put my SD card in my Ps vita
I have never rough housed mine in the end I have probably removed my trays about 15 times since owning this device.
This is one of the biggest flaws with this device imo and I can't find a compatible aluminum tray anywhere
Could try pinching it out with two sewing needles?
Have done this with an iPhone for someone before. :crying:
Just make sure phone's off to avoid shorting anything...
CoreyOS said:
Could try pinching it out with two sewing needles?
Have done this with an iPhone for someone before. :crying:
Just make sure phone's off to avoid shorting anything...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'm gonna get a pair of eyebrow pluckers, or whatever you call those really thin tweezers, and try to pluck it out that way. There is a small part of one side that is close to the top of the slot (as it broke off... diagonally, sort of), so hopefully I can grab ahold of that.
GuyInDogSuit said:
I'm gonna get a pair of eyebrow pluckers, or whatever you call those really thin tweezers, and try to pluck it out that way. There is a small part of one side that is close to the top of the slot (as it broke off... diagonally, sort of), so hopefully I can grab ahold of that.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Fingers crossed!!!
No such luck. It's really hard to see in there and even with a bright light and magnifying glass, I can't seem to find it. Looks like I'll have to take it to a repair shop and lose the waterproof seal, since they'll have to take it apart.
GuyInDogSuit said:
No such luck. It's really hard to see in there and even with a bright light and magnifying glass, I can't seem to find it. Looks like I'll have to take it to a repair shop and lose the waterproof seal, since they'll have to take it apart.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I guess I got lucky. Food for thought after the fact. Get a LifeProof case. Their water proof at least give back some of the resistancy. That's what I got on mine... I swapped frames and screens on Mine
get a new glass back with the ip68 tape. cost around $10 and waterproofing stays intact. pull the old one off and just make sure you clean the bonding area well.
I've done this 2x with mine and have no issues with water intrusion.
triumvirant said:
get a new glass back with the ip68 tape. cost around $10 and waterproofing stays intact. pull the old one off and just make sure you clean the bonding area well.
I've done this 2x with mine and have no issues with water intrusion.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Can you point me in the direction of a tutorial? For future reference and for anyone else who may have to do this as well? I've already had mine repaired and all's well, but I think this info would come in handy for others (including me if it happens again). The fact that people are having to do stuff like this multiple times with their phones is rather frightening.
GuyInDogSuit said:
Can you point me in the direction of a tutorial? For future reference and for anyone else who may have to do this as well? I've already had mine repaired and all's well, but I think this info would come in handy for others (including me if it happens again). The fact that people are having to do stuff like this multiple times with their phones is rather frightening.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Not sure on the rules for posting links, but if you search youtube for "S8 back glass replacement" you can find plenty of videos. I personally used the ifixit teardown guide just to familiarize myself with any cables or things to watch out for.
For the back glass itself, just make sure you get one with the camera lens pre-installed and with ip68 tape. Price for the one i bought is currently $10.02 on ebay.
TheMadScientist said:
I guess I got lucky. Food for thought after the fact. Get a LifeProof case. Their water proof at least give back some of the resistancy. That's what I got on mine... I swapped frames and screens on Mine
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yeah. I will second this. I do all my own repairs. But in this case I just don't care. I'm not interested in reselling. Or anything. This will be a backup in a few months. Time to move on. ???
It stays in the lifeproof so it's water resistant and I don't have to see it.
Solved!
1) Heat a needle, or a tiny flathead screwdriver, and stick it in.
2) Wait 1 minute.
3) Pull out needle or screwdriver to find sim attached and out!