Database Users

I took it apart!!!!!!!!

hey everyone!
I just took my universal apart today.......literally!!!!!
I managed to fix my hinge successfully as well, now it no longer squeaks and rattles!!! Am I happy or what.....you bet I am! ;-)
believe me guys, its fairly easy to open it up and fix things! Just feel confident and don't frce anything, and you should be able to make your way thru!
Will post some pictures later on!
Whack!
San

cool i look forward to seeing hows its done

ratcom: haven't you seen the service manual?
V

I suppose to fix the screen wobbling problem you neet to fasten the 6 screws on the bottom part of the screen? It's been wobbling a bit, not anything serious but I'd rather fix it it I am able to.

dreamtheater39 said:
I managed to fix my hinge successfully as well, now it no longer squeaks and rattles!!!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
What did you have to do for that? I suppose more than just tightening those screws visible near the hinge, because you had to take it apart... :?:

emmerman said:
dreamtheater39 said:
I managed to fix my hinge successfully as well, now it no longer squeaks and rattles!!!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
What did you have to do for that? I suppose more than just tightening those screws visible near the hinge, because you had to take it apart... :?:
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
the screen shake mainly comes from the two metal "tubes" which protrude from the top display. To make things lucid, its the tubes "onto" which the two small plastic covers with the LED indicators ride into and get screwed into the bottom base.
The problem arises when the metal tubes tend to get compressed (deformed?) due to constant opening of the lid. So all you need to do is, use a set of pliers or something to bulge it back outwards, and it should be nice and stiff once again!
The second contribution for screen shake is, the two small plastic pieces (with the led indicators) which are screwed to the base (keyboard blah!). The screws get loose, and you sometimes just need to tighten those...
For either of the two, you need to remove the mother board, display connectors, antenna, keyboard module to get to the part where you can dislodge the top unit...but believe me, its fairly simple and theres nothing to worry!
@Vijay
Do you have the service manual with you?????
I'd love to get a copy of that!!!
cheers!
San

Read though this thread. I've provided a compressed version, 5mb, but get the 20mb full version if your bandwith is fine and it's available.
http://forum.xda-developers.com/vie...&postdays=0&postorder=asc&highlight=bandwidth
V

You can get the service manual off the xda ftp site

vijay555 said:
Read though this thread. I've provided a compressed version, 5mb, but get the 20mb full version if your bandwith is fine and it's available.
http://forum.xda-developers.com/vie...&postdays=0&postorder=asc&highlight=bandwidth
V
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thnx vj!
I still haven't found the appropriate moment to download it though :-(
I'm either on gprs or I forget when I have broadband! hmph! I'll do it tomm when I'm back at office!
Cheerio!
San

[FIX] Wi-Fi/Bluetooth error - 10 minute fix - NO SOLDERING REQUIRED

This is the way I fixed the wifi\bluetooth error with continuous rebooting on my Atrix.
I did not come up with it, and I do not guarantee it will work in your device, I'm simply sharing this because it's information that's hard to find and understand. I fixed my device in this way, so have others. I do not take responsability for any damage you might make to your device attempting this fix, and I do not claim it will work forever - it's been two days for me and still great!
For completeness sake, if you guys want to check other proposed fixes and some reasons why they might or might not work, here is this great post by mvniekerk, a person more far more knowlegble then me when it comes to these technological issues:
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=1655071
I'd also like to thank John-aurelio, junior member, who initially posted about this fix here:
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=1655071&page=4
All credit goes to him!
So, what did I do?
1) I cut out two rectagular pieces of plastic from a pill tin, glued them on top of each other with scotch tape. I think any thin piece of plastic should do.
2) Opened up my Atrix by removing screws with a T5 Torx screwdriver. If you don't know how to do this check out this teardown by ifixit: http://www.ifixit.com/Teardown/Motorola+Atrix+4G+Teardown/4964/1
3) Slightly raised the motherboard and placed the plastic rectangle under it, with a little bit sticking out into the battery compartment.
To my amazement it worked, it is still working.
I wanted to tell you guys why, but I don't know. Perhaps one of you guys wants to experiment applying pressure to each component separately to find out the culprit?
Also, I'm curious to know if this will work for all of you, or just some of you.
Here are the pics:
This last one is the piece of tin\plastic with tape, side by side with a pencil for scale. Its not the tin I used, but its basically the same, but the one I used has white paint, I don't know if should make a difference. If you're worried about shorts just cover the whole thing in tape or cut plastic from a bottle or something.
The first two are how its supposed to look in the end.
[EDIT]: Here are some more pics:
This is the piece of plastic I used. It doesn't show, but it is very thin, one milimiter thick, if even.
These are of the open device. In the last one the plastic piece is a little eschewed, but you get the idea.
Cheerios

Huh. This is similar to the fix some people did with the digitizer problem. Seems like the the connectors on this phone tend to come loose, to where pressure in the right direction will fix it.
Sent from my MB860 using xda app-developers app

Newbleeto said:
This is the way I fixed the wifi\bluetooth error with continuous rebooting on my Atrix.
I did not come up with it, and I do not guarantee it will work in your device, I'm simply sharing this because it's information that's hard to find and understand. I fixed my device in this way, so have others. I do not take responsability for any damage you might make to your device attempting this fix, and I do not claim it will work forever - it's been two days for me and still great!
For completeness sake, if you guys want to check other proposed fixes and some reasons why they might or might not work, here is this great post by mvniekerk, a person more far more knowlegble then me when it comes to these technological issues:
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=1655071
I'd also like to thank John-aurelio, junior member, who initially posted about this fix here:
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=1655071&page=4
All credit goes to him!
So, what did I do?
1) I cut out two rectagular pieces of plastic from a pill tin, glued them on top of each other with scotch tape. I think any thin piece of plastic should do.
2) Opened up my Atrix by removing screws with a T5 Torx screwdriver.
3) Slightly raised the motherboard and placed the plastic rectangle under it, with a little bit sticking out into the battery compartment.
To my amazement it worked, it is still working.
I wanted to tell you guys why, but I don't know. Perhaps one of you guys wants to experiment applying pressure to each component separately to find out the culprit?
Also, I'm curious to know if this will work for all of you, or just some of you.
Here are the pics:
This last one is the piece of tin\plastic with tape, side by side with a pencil for scale. Its not the tin I used, but its basically the same, but the one I used has white paint, I don't know if should make a difference. If you're worried about shorts just cover the whole thing in tape or cut plastic from a bottle or something.
The first two are how its supposed to look in the end.
Sorry for no open device pics, I did this yesterday and don't really feel like opening my phone, but if you guys think its needed I'll do it later.
Cheerios
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
A detailed How To to show us what to do exactly, we can do much ourselves with just this pics. :/
EDIT: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SYz_RiuFVRk had anyone seen this?

Will try this with my wifi broken atrix tomorrow.

guidoido004 said:
A detailed How To to show us what to do exactly, we can do much ourselves with just this pics. :/
EDIT: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SYz_RiuFVRk had anyone seen this?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It's literally as simple as opening the atrix and placing the plastic under the motherboard, I don't think it gets any easier then that. But I'll try to take more photos.
As for that video, there are reports of people killing their mobiles by breaking the piece holding the battery or killing the nearby ICs trying that. That guy is just too rough. Also, it doesn't show the battery actually being replaced. If you wanna try to replace the battery, better do it gently and stay clear of that video
Sent from my Nexus 7 using Tapatalk 2

If the solution is to apply pressure to certain parts of the board then it's likely similar to the infamous nVidia issues from around 2008 where the chips were getting hot enough to expand and brake the solder connection or in some cases, rip some of the pads from the board. If that is the case, be careful, as flexing the board the wrong way could eventually lead to making it worse over time.

I can't believe this actually worked. Been using my Atrix for the whole weekend on WIFI. Also finally been able to use my Lapdock properly.
Thanks so much for such a simple fix.
If its any help to anyone, I ended up using an old debit card, as its seems the perfect height to give enough pressure on the board.
It did take a few goes, but as long as you persist with it, it works really well. Plus no more over heating too.
Thanks again

holy crap. 5 minutes and its fixed! thank you

Cause found??
Hi everybody,
I might have an idea what causes the wifi errors. As the wifi gets fixed by changing the motherboard's position, the motherboard is not fastened properly. This might be caused by the vibration function that is located on the part of the motherboard you would need to move up.(see the location of the vibrationfuction in the attachment.)
If so, should this function be less used then?

Thanks Newbleeto! I was so frustrated with this issue. I was initially trying based that youtube video link by someone else which never worked for me. I later decided to try your solution and it worked for me the very first time Appreciate your help!

Thanks, seems to work!

What an interesting tweak. There some validity to this. The Atrix 4G is notorious for wifi, bluetooth, and GPS dropout. This is largely due to kernel and rom. However I have seem plenty of Atrix4Gs with loose antenna clamps. Usually I apply a little pressure in the outside of the clamp to reform it slightly so it will maintain hold on the reciever socket. Second thing I look at is the shielding around the mainboard. This acts as a heatsink and guard. If depressed in anyway will cause massive heating along with grounding. The antenna clusters are not well separated from RF interference from one another to begin with. Metal in general will restricted RF signals considerably depending on its frequency. The greater the frequency the lower it's ability to perpetrate materials.
From the looks of it your directing RF crossover and bounce back away from each antenna. This is a good thing. It also means as long as the phone is not held on its edge towards any receiving end it won't effect talk and data very much.
My experiments with the Atrix4G always had a bit of unpredictable outcome when it came to pressure on the ribbon connections. This would result in the screen blacking out, digitizer over sensitive or non responsive, failure to boot and so on. Pressure is a big deal with these phones so be careful.
Happy tinkering

IT WORKS
after nearly 4 months of this bug i finally had the guts to open up my phone and do this fix.
and it is working , my wifi is back thank you OP. :highfive::highfive::highfive::highfive::highfive::highfive::highfive::highfive::highfive::highfive::highfive::highfive::victory::victory:

This method works wonderfully. Thanks, OP!

sangyum said:
This method works wonderfully. Thanks, OP!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Spoke too soon. This fix stopped working after two days.... Back to Wifi Error and boot loop. :crying:

I got my wifi to work again, there are two snap on connectors on the same side of the phone. I put 2x pieces of toilet paper cardboard between the frame of the phone and the connector, pushing the connector tighter to the other side.

I'd like to confrm that it works to me !
Thank you, I spent dozens of hours to try solve it.

Newbleeto said:
This is the way I fixed the wifi\bluetooth error with continuous rebooting on my Atrix.
I did not come up with it, and I do not guarantee it will work in your device, I'm simply sharing this because it's information that's hard to find and understand. I fixed my device in this way, so have others. I do not take responsability for any damage you might make to your device attempting this fix, and I do not claim it will work forever - it's been two days for me and still great!
For completeness sake, if you guys want to check other proposed fixes and some reasons why they might or might not work, here is this great post by mvniekerk, a person more far more knowlegble then me when it comes to these technological issues:
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=1655071
I'd also like to thank John-aurelio, junior member, who initially posted about this fix here:
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=1655071&page=4
All credit goes to him!
So, what did I do?
1) I cut out two rectagular pieces of plastic from a pill tin, glued them on top of each other with scotch tape. I think any thin piece of plastic should do.
2) Opened up my Atrix by removing screws with a T5 Torx screwdriver. If you don't know how to do this check out this teardown by ifixit: http://www.ifixit.com/Teardown/Motorola+Atrix+4G+Teardown/4964/1
3) Slightly raised the motherboard and placed the plastic rectangle under it, with a little bit sticking out into the battery compartment.
To my amazement it worked, it is still working.
...
Cheerios
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I did this as well, and it's been working perfectly for over a week now. Battery life has tripled to 24h (back where it used to be, what a relief) and the wifi is back to being perfect.
In my case, I cut a small piece out of an old credit card and inserted into the section highlighted in the attached picture, inside to out (from the battery bay towards the side). There are flat cables/strips underneath and you probably don't want to insert your spacer material from the outside in. Make sure that the plastic strip fits completely underneath the board, otherwise you won't be able to properly close the back.
Thanks!

To add some data to this can all of you confirm the kernel and rom you are useing before and after this mod. Would help all of us in the future for reference. Thanks.

Cab121 said:
To add some data to this can all of you confirm the kernel and rom you are useing before and after this mod. Would help all of us in the future for reference. Thanks.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Sure, no problem!
Atrix 4G (Bell Canada)
Unlocked and rooted by yours truly (don't ask how, I'm still not sure I know what I did)
CynaogenMod 10.1 from epinter: Megathread or linuxmobile.org site, builds 2013-08-07 + hporch32 kernel (before and after mod) & 2013-08-26 + hporch32 kernel (after mod)
Radio: Telstra N_01.87.00R

[HELP] How to Remove Stripped Battery Terminal Screw

Any ideas? I've tried the rubber band method and it's just too small to work.

draikz said:
Any ideas? I've tried the rubber band method and it's just too small to work.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
DO NOT TRY THIS
I too stripped one of the screws on the battery connector when I was replacing my phone's broken screen recently. It was two in the morning, and I had already spent two hours trying to disassemble the phone, with the majority of the time spent trying every method I knew to loosen the stripped screw. I was losing my patience. Finally, driven by frustration and exhaustion, I just said "**** it", and with my fingers I pried the connector off along with one of the mounting bosses by force. I was lucky because the mounting boss got ripped off of the PCB cleanly, with only a small bit of the PCB surface separated. No circuitry was damaged. I fixed my screen and now the phone functions perfectly without any loose parts. What's great about this is if I ever need to remove the battery again, there's one fewer screw to remove :victory:
I really shouldn't be allowed near electronics repair.
DO NOT TRY THIS

I personally would try slowly filing down both sides of the screw so I could get a fix with some appliers or a small spanner. Never tried this though and only a suggestion !.
Phone : Nexus 4 /Rom : cataclysm / Kernel : Stock.

bladebuddy said:
I personally would try slowly filing down both sides of the screw so I could get a fix with some appliers or a small spanner. Never tried this though and only a suggestion !.
Phone : Nexus 4 /Rom : cataclysm / Kernel : Stock.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
If there isn't enough screw head to grip on for that to work, you can also try taking a razor and cutting a slot into the head so you can apply a flat screwdriver. Another option is to super glue/solder the tip of a screwdriver to the screw then apply torque, but it might be hard to get enough bonding strength on such a small surface.

if you can solder, try soldering an allen wrench or something similar directly to the screw. you might not be able to get the solder off once the screws our but at least it might be able to remove it.

Solder won't stick to the screw. Welding or brazing is out too. I would try filing a slot and using a flathead screw driver as mentioned earlier. I would then try the super glue trick also mentioned earlier. Good luck, small screws are a pain. I deal with broken screws and bolts all the time. Patience is key. Don't rush it.
Sent from my underpriced, overpowered pocket thingy.

They make a special stripped screw extractor bit for a hand drill. Can get them at any hardware store. I use them all the time at work and they work magically.
Sent from my Nexus 4 using XDA Premium 4 mobile app

draikz said:
Any ideas? I've tried the rubber band method and it's just too small to work.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
So how did you get it out ??? I have the same problem. I was thinking of using my fingers like someone mentioned but I still have a lil patience left in me

draikz said:
Any ideas? I've tried the rubber band method and it's just too small to work.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hi!!! I have the same problem and would like to know how did you solve it?
Thanks so much

yes i have the same problem. how did you end up solving it the thread says solved.

dominiqueovalle said:
yes i have the same problem. how did you end up solving it the thread says solved.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Well if its little stripped try 3 size bigger screwdrive. Worked for me!!! And don't screw back so hard.

Epoxy or epoxy putty.
You can use either to attach a disposable screwdriver to the screw in question. Let either set for at least an hour.
You may need to rough up both surfaces a bit to get a good bond.
Phillips head screws and drivers are made to cam out so you don't strip the head. Either you're using the wrong size screwdriver or a worn tip. Go slow. Take your time.
Not that you'd be using a drill/driver but you see the same thing happen when the speed is too high and not enough torque. The bit ends up spinning in the head wearing away the slots.

Use hammer and one screwdriver to revert the screw. That isn''t a joke a tried this metod and work .

G900F R1 / R2 antenna help, broke off R2

Hello people.
I was busy repairing S5 and by curiosity I removed the R2 port and there in one antenna was stuck, it popped off the motherboard and I cannot find it anymore.
Someone suggested (https://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=1625663) to stick a small copper wire and to tape it down, would this work?
see picture...

There was nothing in the bigger connectors. Antennas are in other place.
Do you mean a small round grey plastic cover? Just forget it.
Or the whole connector is torn off?

bbsc said:
There was nothing in the bigger connectors. Antennas are in other place.
Do you mean a small round grey plastic cover? Just forget it.
Or the whole connector is torn off?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
As seen in picture marked, the whole connector is torn off. In the link you can read that it's necessary for signal reception.

amakuramio said:
As seen in picture marked, the whole connector is torn off. In the link you can read that it's necessary for signal reception.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
These two (bigger) connectors look like test-points or something.
I'm sure they are not necessary for signal reception.
But if you have a closer look at this place, you'll see a PCB track running under that torn off connector (please refer the image attached).
If this track is untouched, the phone will work as it should.
But if it's damaged, you'll have to repair it. It can be done with a thin copper wire and some soldering (no tape )

bbsc said:
These two (bigger) connectors look like test-points or something.
I'm sure they are not necessary for signal reception.
But if you have a closer look at this place, you'll see a PCB track running under that torn off connector (please refer the image attached).
If this track is untouched, the phone will work as it should.
But if it's damaged, you'll have to repair it. It can be done with a thin copper wire and some soldering (no tape )
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
only the r2 big connector popped off.
I hope that LTE will work otherwise my friend will be pissed off. haha.

amakuramio said:
only the r2 big connector popped off.
I hope that LTE will work otherwise my friend will be pissed off. haha.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I've looked at your problem once more.
I'm sorry, but it looks a little more complicated than it was before.
Please have a look at the pictures attached.
I don't know what variant of SGS5 you have, but you can probably see something like the image on one of the photos.
If so, you'll have to connect by soldering the points circled in red.
That's because the port or connector which was torn off worked like an electrical jumper between these points.
Good luck.

bbsc said:
I've looked at your problem once more.
I'm sorry, but it looks a little more complicated than it was before.
Please have a look at the pictures attached.
I don't know what variant of SGS5 you have, but you can probably see something like the image on one of the photos.
If so, you'll have to connect by soldering the points circled in red.
That's because the port or connector which was torn off worked like an electrical jumper between these points.
Good luck.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thank you so much. I can use copper wires?
I don't have to connect the sides, just connect point a and b, right?

amakuramio said:
Thank you so much. I can use copper wires?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You can take a common stranded wire and take one thin solid copper wire from it.
You can solder it without problem because the green substance on the PCB is insulating coating, but the points which you need are free from this coating.
P.S. No, you don't need to connect sides - it's just "ground" and they are still connected.
Just connect two points circled in red - it's the signal line.

bbsc said:
You can take a common stranded wire and take one thin solid copper wire from it.
You can solder it without problem because the green substance on the PCB is insulating coating, but the points which you need are free from this coating.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thank you so much! Tomorrow another friend (specialist in soldering) will come, and I will ask if he can help me with it ^_^ Just a very thin copper wire, it should be possible
I tested it broken like this and I notice the signal is very bad, 0-1 bar.

amakuramio said:
Thank you so much! Tomorrow another friend (specialist in soldering) will come, and I will ask if he can help me with it ^_^ Just a very thin copper wire, it should be possible
I tested it broken like this and I notice the signal is very bad, 0-1 bar.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You're welcome.
Let's see if it helps. I think it should.

Just to make the things more understandable.
1. Get a piece of conventional stranded wire (1).
2. Get a single thin conductor from it (2).
3. Solder in the jumper very carefully and get the result (3, 4, 5)
P.S. All photos were taken with Samsung Galaxy S5.

bbsc said:
Just to make the things more understandable.
1. Get a piece of conventional stranded wire (1).
2. Get a single thin conductor from it (2).
3. Solder in the jumper very carefully and get the result (3, 4, 5)
P.S. All photos were taken with Samsung Galaxy S5.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I've fixed an s5 via this method. It does work. There's all kinds of crazy things that fix issues but sound ridiculous. I fixed the motherboard of my ps3 by wrapping it in tinfoil and baking it. Seriously. It did a reflow of the solder.

godkingofcanada said:
I've fixed an s5 via this method. It does work. There's all kinds of crazy things that fix issues but sound ridiculous. I fixed the motherboard of my ps3 by wrapping it in tinfoil and baking it. Seriously. It did a reflow of the solder.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I tried it, but worsened the signal.... what could have gone wrong

bbsc said:
Just to make the things more understandable.
1. Get a piece of conventional stranded wire (1).
2. Get a single thin conductor from it (2).
3. Solder in the jumper very carefully and get the result (3, 4, 5)
P.S. All photos were taken with Samsung Galaxy S5.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
sorry for the late reply -- I did the same but signal keeps dropping or is only 1 bar ...

amakuramio said:
I tried it, but worsened the signal.... what could have gone wrong
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Do it properly, forget the tape. Actually solder the wire onto the two points. It will give much better contact

godkingofcanada said:
Do it properly, forget the tape. Actually solder the wire onto the two points. It will give much better contact
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
ended up buying a defective s5 from auction just for the motherboard....
the guy who soldered for me is on vacation...

amakuramio said:
ended up buying a defective s5 from auction just for the motherboard....
the guy who soldered for me is on vacation...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That will work too

Fix for low/weak/poor wifi signal en Redmi Note 3 PRO (Kenzo)(SD)

Okay, since many people are having this problem lately, i will show the solution that worked for me and for others around the web. My wifi range suddenly was reduced and I still don't know why. If you are having the same problem, you should try this procedure. I dont have a Mediatek(KATE) version to test, so if someone can do the procedure and report back, I would appreciate. On XDA I saw bar4's guide:
bar4 said:
i hope you already solved the problem, but if not, try this out, it work for me at least now my redmi note 3 wifi keep connect and the signal increase, first open your phone back cover (you can use thick material such as guitar pick) then at the top remove 4 screws (one screw is hidden in the back of small mi sticker) then remove the black small cover, there at two contact point put something (for me i use aluminium foil, i take it from coaxial antena cable, cut small square or so put in there) that's it put it back, try to test it first before you put the cover back because a little bit hard to open the cover though. goodluck....
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
But in the pictures, he glues the aluminum foil to the wrong side of the piece. The correct was to do the following:
Open the back cover;
Remove the 4 screws on the top piece shown in the pictures;
Cut some aluminum paper or foil in a size that cover the two grey contacts and place it above them with a dot of scholar glue; (Pay attention to the side of the piece)
Put the top piece back on its place and insert the screws.
Do some testing
*See the pictures
Consider we are looking the smartphone from the back. The problem I had with bar4's guide was that he glued the aluminum to the right side contacts, while he should have glued it to the left side.
Other possibilities are that the continuity between contacts was broken(in my case, on the left side) by a fall or something. Before doing the procedure, check the continuity between each pair of contacts on the top pieces. If the current is not going through, you've found the problem. Maybe bar4 had the right side broken. I created this thread because there is almost no info about this procedure in the web.
Spread it out.

so where is located wifi antenna ? left or right? im confused right now. but i definitelly need to fix my poor wifi signal (it worked well two weeks ago)
i should put aluminium paper on both sides ?

Mayr1k said:
so where is located wifi antenna ? left or right? im confused right now. but i definitelly need to fix my poor wifi signal (it worked well two weeks ago)
i should put aluminium paper on both sides ?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You can't go wrong putting aluminum paper on both sides. But in my case i had to put on the left.

ThiagoAlmeida said:
You can't go wrong putting aluminum paper on both sides. But in my case i had to put on the left.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
lol yeah i put paper on left side too. not sure of any changes yet. (just finished the job)

Mayr1k said:
lol yeah i put paper on left side too. not sure of any changes yet. (just finished the job)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Nice job. Hope it helps.

ThiagoAlmeida said:
Nice job. Hope it helps.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Does this works??
Please reply

Hi Thiago!
I have the same problem but I have a Redmi 4X. If it's possible, could you please make contact with me? facebook /rodrigo.daddato twitter: digao_daddato
thanks in advance!
---
Edit:
I did the solution provided, put aluminium in 3 contacts of the removable piece of the back cover put... without success

It's work on my device (hennessy), i put alumnium papper on both side and checked the signal bar increase, i found that happened because loose, perhaps your phone ever fell. Then i put another alumnium papper with glue on backcase for extra push :fingers-crossed:
sorry for my english :silly:

I've tried putting one on each sides but it decreased instead

ggez said:
I've tried putting one on each sides but it decreased instead
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Yes, it didnt work for me also so i pasted small piece of aluminium foil above right side of the screwed plastic case and it works flawless now.

himanshu714 said:
Yes, it didnt work for me also so i pasted small piece of aluminium foil above right side of the screwed plastic case and it works flawless now.
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share picture please i wanna try that too

Mayr1k said:
share picture please i wanna try that too
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Not able to upload it here

himanshu714 said:
Not able to upload it here
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email me [email protected] sent picture to my email?i have wifi problem too

please send for my emial too.
i have wifi problem too.
---------- Post added at 01:24 PM ---------- Previous post was at 01:23 PM ----------
my email is [email protected]
please send i have wifi problem too.

himanshu714 said:
Not able to upload it here
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inside or outside of the screwed plastic?

ggez said:
inside or outside of the screwed plastic?
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outside

himanshu714 said:
outside
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is it ok to use elmer's glue?

ggez said:
is it ok to use elmer's glue?
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yes

himanshu714 said:
Yes, it didnt work for me also so i pasted small piece of aluminium foil above right side of the screwed plastic case and it works flawless now.
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Click to collapse
The steps above didn't work for me too, your solution work perfectly for me...
* Redmi Note 3 Snapdragon : wifi circuit is on the right side
* Do not open the screws, it will broke your warranty!!
* Take a small aluminium foil, attach it to the left side of your phone case (i use a thin double tape)
(When you attach the case to your phone, the aluminium foil will stick to your phone's wifi circuit)
* It works like magic
I have the image, but I'm new here, i can't post image.

bIG_mAC1 said:
The steps above didn't work for me too, your solution work perfectly for me...
* Redmi Note 3 Snapdragon : wifi circuit is on the right side
* Do not open the screws, it will broke your warranty!!
* Take a small aluminium foil, attach it to the left side of your phone case (i use a thin double tape)
(When you attach the case to your phone, the aluminium foil will stick to your phone's wifi circuit)
* It works like magic
I have the image, but I'm new here, i can't post image.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I am happy to help you with this