Database Users

car charger for XDA Exec

Hello
I had gone out to get a car charger for the XDA Exec. i went to the t-mobile shop and they gave me a car charger for the motorola V3 and said it would work.
i have not tried it, but my brother who has an imate jasjar tried it and it does not seem to work with his device.
both the XDA & V3 use a USB cable from the PC to charge them up, that made me think they could use the same car charger, what do you guys think?

u need to think about the voltage of the charger u have, you should never use a charger that was never designed for your device.
even if it is fractionally dfferent, this could cause anything from failure of your device to fire, etc. you should have got a charger from an o2 shop, I got one and it was only 15 quid. works perfectly and was designed for universal devices.

The main problem here is the current the charger will deliver.
I have 1 exec that will only just charge from an 850 m amp charger the 2nd exec wont charge at all. You really need a charger that will deliver 5v 1 amp to charge effectively.
I stuggled to find such a charger but the active holder from Brodit does the job superbley. i got mine from
www.gpsforless.co.uk
Regards
The Pilgrim

thanks for the replies
so it is the current specifications which is the problem!!
i geuss the voltage spec is nto a problem, since the USB outlet should guarantee volts between 4.75 and 5.25, correct?
i guess the comp based charging works, cause the computer can provided as many amps as required, correct?
but why would one xda charge up and the other wont.
resistor tolerances ??
what about the charging algorithm , once the battery charges up, what prevents the charger to push more juice into the xda exec. likewise with the ccmputerbasec charager?
Can i use a car charger meant for the t-mobile MDA Pro with the O2 XDA EXEC or with the i-mate jasjar, or are the specifications different?

the_pilgrim said:
The main problem here is the current the charger will deliver.
I have 1 exec that will only just charge from an 850 m amp charger the 2nd exec wont charge at all. You really need a charger that will deliver 5v 1 amp to charge effectively.
I stuggled to find such a charger but the active holder from Brodit does the job superbley. i got mine from
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That's strange, true computer USB ports only deliver 500 mA and it appears to charge just fine, if very slowly, on one of those. Razr chargers are not entirely the same as regular USB chargers, the Razr uses the extra USB pin (mini has 5, regular has 4) to tell it what kind of device is connected, cradle, computer, etc. It's possible that the Uni chokes on that.
As an experiment, I hooked a 400 mA (specced) USB adapter to my MDA Pro, the charge light comes on. It's at 70% battery at 1:00 am local time. I'll check again a bit later to see if it actually charged.
[Edit: It's 22 minutes or so later and I've moved to 76%, while the PDA was otherwise turned off. That confirms that it's very, very slow. Also, the adapter was pretty warm, it may have been running over its rating.]
I'm not sure how much this experiment is worth though, I've got a near duplicate of this adapter with a different colour that's specced at 1000 mA (and in fact they're now selling the same outer plastic with a 2000 mA rating). If the insides are as similar as the outside, the other one's just underrated, but it's possible that the insides are actually different.
Re:Voltage, as far as I know, anything that uses a USB charger is 5V so should be intercompatible. This statement does not come with any express or implied warranty of fitness and I will not be replacing any devices you fry.
Still, though, most devices tend to run on "be liberal in what you accept" -- my Nokias charge on anything from at least 3 to 8 volts. I wouldn't be surprised if the uni is the same, but I won't be testing that out anytime soon. At least not without reloading the original rom first in case I'd need to warranty it.

xda_guy said:
what about the charging algorithm , once the battery charges up, what prevents the charger to push more juice into the xda exec. likewise with the ccmputerbasec charager?
Can i use a car charger meant for the t-mobile MDA Pro with the O2 XDA EXEC or with the i-mate jasjar, or are the specifications different?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
All the universals are identical to a much closer look than simply charging. The only thing that's different there is the colour, a charger colour coordinated with an MDA Pro isn't with a jasjar.
The name 'charger' is really a misnomer. What 'chargers' actually do is provide a (semi-[1])constant voltage at a certain maximum number of amps, ie, they're *power supplies*. The actual charger which takjes care of the battery charging algorythm is integrated inside the Uni. All the 'charger' needs to do is make electricity of the kind that the *actual* charging chip inside is designed to run on.
[1] Most chargers, even original equipment let alone aftermarket, are highly crappily regulated.

Get one from a local orange store - 10 quid for a spv500 one, works great.

actually i tried to charge a second razr using my comp and it woudl not charge up? does this mean the current spec varies from device to device, even within the same device
if one messes up the uni by charging it using a charger from a different make, it is still under warranty?
hey jasper
The only thing that's different there is the colour, a charger colour coordinated with an MDA Pro isn't with a jasjar.
what do you mean by colour coordinated
The name 'charger' is really a misnomer. What 'chargers' actually do is provide a (semi-[1])constant voltage at a certain maximum number of amps, ie, they're *power supplies*. The actual charger which takjes care of the battery charging algorythm is integrated inside the Uni. All the 'charger' needs to do is make electricity of the kind that the *actual* charging chip inside is designed to run on.
does this mean that charging algorithm is actually within the phone itself, i mean when the phine is 100% charged, how does it know that it should not charge any more?
so there are 2 types of USB sockets, one with 5 pins and the other with 4 pins. did nto the standard USB have 4 pins?
is the 10 quid charger from the orange store meant for an actual spv5000? the t-mobile store gave me 2 chargers which they said were meant for the razr and the ysaid it would work just fine on the razr

re orange 10 quid charger - no idea. i read on a forum that someone else had got one and said it worked, so i got one too and it worked great.
previously I had used the supplied usb cable with a car adaptor and it couldn't keep up with running tomtom, so the battery would go flat. with this charger i can run tomtom and the device charges fine too.

thanks for the reply
you had received a usb cable with a car adaptor ? was this a unit which plugged into the cig lighter socket of the car

hi
this charger works with the exec and charges it quickly
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/CAR-CHARGER-O...itemZ5849569917QQcategoryZ48674QQcmdZViewItem

xda_guy said:
thanks for the reply
you had received a usb cable with a car adaptor ? was this a unit which plugged into the cig lighter socket of the car
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The cable was the standard one supplied. the car adaptor does plug into the cigarette lighter socket - one was supplied with a palm t3 car kit, another with an ipaq car kit. both never worked as previously stated (showed charging but failed to keep up with battery drain in use).

xda_guy said:
The only thing that's different there is the colour, a charger colour coordinated with an MDA Pro isn't with a jasjar.
what do you mean by colour coordinated
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I mean that if you get a silver charger, same colour as the MDA Pro, it will not be a black charger, same as the Jasjar. So it may not look quite as cool, but it'll work just fine.
The name 'charger' is really a misnomer. What 'chargers' actually do is provide a (semi-[1])constant voltage at a certain maximum number of amps, ie, they're *power supplies*. The actual charger which takjes care of the battery charging algorythm is integrated inside the Uni. All the 'charger' needs to do is make electricity of the kind that the *actual* charging chip inside is designed to run on.
does this mean that charging algorithm is actually within the phone itself, i mean when the phine is 100% charged, how does it know that it should not charge any more?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
There are three components that have to do with charging: First there's the battery. It's got four contacts (+, -, and two others) which means it's probably a smart or at least semi-smart battery, which has internal sensors for temperature etc, either directly wired to outside or with a small chip to multiplex the lot onto just 2 wires, then there's a chip inside the phone which does the actual charging, it probably knows how full the battery is by measuring the output voltage, and regulates charge current based on that and the temperature., and communicates that to the OS. Then there's the so-called 'charger' outside the phone, or the USB cable, which simply provides the raw electricity to work with.
so there are 2 types of USB sockets, one with 5 pins and the other with 4 pins. did nto the standard USB have 4 pins?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Standard 'large' USB ports, both the ones found on your PC (long rectangular in crossection, 'type A') and the ones like are on a printer (more squarish in crosssection, 'type-B') have 4 pins. There was at one time a mini-USB with 4 pins as well, bit that was never common and is highly obsolete. And then there's the regular mini-USB we have these days, which has 5 pins. It comes in three variants which look almost the same: Mini-B, which you get on things like digicams, external cardreaders, etc ('slave devices'), and on the end of the USB cables that came with your universal (since it acts as a slave device when hooked to a PC), then there's mini-A, which is for computers that can't fit a fullsize one (rare), and then there's mini-AB, which can be used by both mini-A and mini-B plugs, and is the physical port found on the universal. These should be used by PDAs that provide USB-Host functionality, that is, you can hook them to a PC and they'll act as a slave device, but then you can hook them to a car reader or external hard drive and they'll act as host. Unfortunately, while the Universal has the physical mini-AB port, it doesn't *actually* support USB-Host functionality.

thanks for the info on the usb connectors

I got this.
Works in your car AND in a standard wall outlet in case you dont have a laptop or computer around to do power over usb.
http://www.boxwave.com/products/versacharger/index.htm
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"lightbox_close": "Close",
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"lightbox_error": "The requested content cannot be loaded. Please try again later.",
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"lightbox_download": "Download",
"lightbox_share": "Share",
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}
They even have an airplane adaptor in the case that your favorite airline has outlets...
I NEVER leave home w/o this thing...like EVER...

xda_guy said:
does this mean that charging algorithm is actually within the phone itself, i mean when the phine is 100% charged, how does it know that it should not charge any more?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
When the battery reaches its maximum capacity the voltage dips slightly. the chargers in the phone detect this and stop charging.
Regards
The Pilgrim

xda guy
You can use your V3 car charger to charge your Exec. I do although it doesn't charge as fast as your mains charger or one designed specifically for it. It's something to do with the milli amps output.
However, it won't charge unless you plug it in with the clam Closed and the device OFF. You can subsequently open the clam and/or turn it on (for example if your running TT) and it continues to charge. If you plug the charger in with the device on, switch it off and it will charge (you can then turn it back on).
BTW - The V3 mains charger WON'T charge the Exec !!!

I use the one from Brodit, supplied by www.dsldevelopments.com and it works a treat. Never any problems, and Brodit gear is always top notch!
Ant

thanks for the replies
hey does the versacharger work with all mobile phones?
voltage of the battery dips slightly?
However, it won't charge unless you plug it in with the clam Closed and the device OFF. You can subsequently open the clam and/or turn it on (for example if your running TT) and it continues to charge. If you plug the charger in with the device on, switch it off and it will charge (you can then turn it back on).
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
hey how do you turn the exec off?

hey how do you turn the exec off?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
ermmm, with the on/off button !

Homemade car charger for 8125

For those interested, I thought I'd share my work that saved me $10 - $30. Since I never used the USB cable that came with my 8125, I cut the cable and connected it to a cigarrette lighter plug. There are 4 wires in the USB cable (yellow,,black,green,white); 2 wires in the plug(red,black). Connect red to yellow, and black to black. The white and green wires can be twisted together to be out of the way, they are NOT connected to any thing. Voila! a homemade car charger that really worksP.S. Check out this website: Funformobile.com. Today animations, ringtones, all sorts of cool stuff for your 8125.Cingular 8125ROM 2.25.11.1

12volts straight to the dome! Better stop up and batteries!

Ya know, the real 8125 car charger converts the car batt 12VDC to 5VDC and regulates the amps to 1. Just thought Id throw that out there!

Take a look at this then!!! I had a camera that i droped and its in little bits, so i just cut the holder abit and now i have a phone holder for when i am flashing roms or doing other things on it!

calouro said:
Ya know, the real 8125 car charger converts the car batt 12VDC to 5VDC and regulates the amps to 1. Just thought Id throw that out there!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That's funny, I saw the "real" car chargers, and not 1 has a "built-in" converter or step down transformer from 12V to 5V. All it has is a cigarrette lighter plug and the charging cable like the one I made. Is the converter in the cigarrette lighter plug? I use my homemade charger every day in my truck, and have had no problems. My phone would had fried when I first tested it. If anyone else decides to make their own charger, you're doing this at your own risk. I am not responsible for your stupidity or lack of mechanical skills. I'm just sharing my work.

hotdog53 said:
... I am not responsible for your stupidity or lack of mechanical skills. I'm just sharing my work.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
So, what you are saying is that it was stupid of you to create your own?
Yes, the original car charger has a down converter within the plug - sooner or later your device will either blow up or your battery will break.
I do not recommend this to anyone! You better keep your original USB data cable and buy you a real car charger for $5.00 (and up).
Going hotdog53's way is saving money on the wrong end ... your WIZ is a bit too expensive for that, isn't it?

Junner2003 said:
So, what you are saying is that it was stupid of you to create your own?
Yes, the original car charger has a down converter within the plug - sooner or later your device will either blow up or your battery will break.
I do not recommend this to anyone! You better keep your original USB data cable and buy you a real car charger for $5.00 (and up).
Going hotdog53's way is saving money on the wrong end ... your WIZ is a bit too expensive for that, isn't it?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Come on now, how in the heck can a converter or step down transformer be made inside a plastic cigarrette lighter plug??? Visit Cingular's accessories website for car chargers for 8125 or8525, and click on the view details located at the bottom of the car charger pic. The home charger with the big black plug has a converter to step down 120V. I used the pistol type cigarrette lighter plug. Where can I get 1 for 5 bucks? I'll buy it for a spare.

Almost every vehicles electical system runs on a +12V DV Current. A standard cigarete lighter is 12volts. and does not have a transformer. By tying in the usb cable directly to the cars 12V system you are now stuffing massive amounts of electricity into your phone at an unregulated rate. It is highly likely you will burn out sensitive resisters and capaciters in the phone because they are very small and not designed to handle the current. Also charging a battery too fast is bad for it regardless of NmHi, Nicad or Lithiom. If you charge rate "amps" is too high you'll permanently damage battery cells "cook" them. One thing also is that it could actualy draw current from your phone. What I mean is that your phone may plug into the cable and show that it's charging but it's actually draining the battery.
I'd spend the $14 at walmart for the motorola "mini usb style" charger...
Option "b" is to buy a cheap power inverter that converts the current from dc to ac and you will be able to plug in your standard wall charger.

Thanks for this very informative reply. I've used my homemade charger for several days now, and my battery has no problem charging from the home charger. True, the cigarrette lighter is 12V, but the vehicle's voltage regulator controls the amount of voltage that is put into these 12V receptacles. For safety, a fuse would blow before anything drastic happened.
Yeah, but if my truck's Not running, what does the voltage regulator do? NOTHING! Hey everybody who replied and read this thread, I stand corrected and apologize for my sarcasm and knowing all! The protection IS in the plug, and fortunately the pistol plug I used was from another phone car charger. I agree with all the rest...DO NOT MAKE YOUR OWN!SORRY EVERYONE!!Cingular 8125ROM 2.25.11.1

Car Charing not working

I tried to charge my Tilt today using the Car Charger that I got with it from AT&T but it isn't working. I accidently jammed my stylus into the mini usb port a few weeks ago andthen but it didn't look any different and nothing seemed to break off. It will still charge with my wall charger at home and will still sync with my computer. I know that the car charger is supposed to charge my phone faster but it should still use the same connections as my regular one..right? Could it be the ROM possibly? I can't test this right now because I am at work and my phone won't sync with my work computer.
Sorry if this is in the wrong forum please move if it is.

Check the cigarette plug in your car, sometimes it can be full with dirt on the connector in the car.
I had the same problem today and cleaned it out just with a screwdriver so that its connecting now.

Well the light on the charger is lit so I assume there is power going to it and it works with my mom's razr charger. The USB port actually looks dirty but I wouldnt know how to clean it out lol

bartimeus said:
I tried to charge my Tilt today using the Car Charger that I got with it from AT&T but it isn't working. I accidently jammed my stylus into the mini usb port a few weeks ago andthen but it didn't look any different and nothing seemed to break off. It will still charge with my wall charger at home and will still sync with my computer. I know that the car charger is supposed to charge my phone faster but it should still use the same connections as my regular one..right? Could it be the ROM possibly? I can't test this right now because I am at work and my phone won't sync with my work computer.
Sorry if this is in the wrong forum please move if it is.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I had issues with my Tilt not charging in the car, which turned out to be a weird issue with CardExport. I had the CardExport tray icon set to autostart, and my phone would not charge in the car - only when connected to a PC. Disabling the CardExport tray icon and doing a soft reset fixed it. Now if I need to use CardExport I just start it manually.
HTH

Check your mini-usb connector on the phone, if the bit in the middle doesnt seem level it won't charge at full speed

bartimeus - Did you ever find a solution to this? I have been using Igo on my phone in the car heavily over the past few days for long trips. I have 3 car chargers and all wont charge the phone (resulting in no loss of satnav :-S).
Oddly, my phone shows that it is charging - sometimes only for a few minutes, sometimes continuosly - but it doesn't.
I accidentally shoved my stylus in the USB port too about 10 months ago and i wonder if this is a result of that. Odd it charges from a PC by usb and mains though - but not via a car charger.

I found that any of the Cheap ass Chargers I used won't charge it. I'm waiting for my HTC made one to arrive so I can find out if there is an issue.
I read on a thread a while back about pin 4 and pin 5 need to be soldered together for the Kaiser to want to charge.

pharaohamps said:
I had issues with my Tilt not charging in the car, which turned out to be a weird issue with CardExport. I had the CardExport tray icon set to autostart, and my phone would not charge in the car - only when connected to a PC. Disabling the CardExport tray icon and doing a soft reset fixed it. Now if I need to use CardExport I just start it manually.
HTH
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have this problem but have never used cardexport... any known fixes?

JimmyMcGee said:
I found that any of the Cheap ass Chargers I used won't charge it. I'm waiting for my HTC made one to arrive so I can find out if there is an issue.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
My car chargers are 'cheap ass' Ebay purchases. Please let me know how the HTC charger gets on.

Not sure if this is the case for Tytn II, my Asus P525 need to have the middle 2 pins (D+ and D-) short in order to charge.

jackleung said:
Not sure if this is the case for Tytn II, my Asus P525 need to have the middle 2 pins (D+ and D-) short in order to charge.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I vaguely remember reading that some people shorted Pins 4 and 5 and it worked.

JimmyMcGee said:
I vaguely remember reading that some people shorted Pins 4 and 5 and it worked.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I don't know how you come up w/ Pin5 as USB has only 4 pins (5+, Ground, D+, D-). Read the spec here: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/USB
I will do the mod on one of my adapter tonight and verify it

jackleung said:
I don't know how you come up w/ Pin5 as USB has only 4 pins (5+, Ground, D+, D-). Read the spec here: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/USB
I will do the mod on one of my adapter tonight and verify it
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Look for Mini-B It has Five Connections. That's what I'm referring too.

JimmyMcGee said:
Look for Mini-B It has Five Connections. That's what I'm referring too.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Then it would be pin 2 and pin3 for D+ and D-.
Ok, let me share what I found so far and the result turns out to be very surprising. I have 3 different cigarette to usb adapter (yes, I got lot of gadgets to feed in my car. ). And the test are done w/ maximum backlight and A2DP music to my JVC BT-1.
1. Cheapo w/o current rating label, (I guess it's about ~500ma). D+ and D- shorted
2. Another cheapo rated w/ 650ma. D+ and D- NOT shorted
3. An expensive one w/ rated at 2A (yes, this is the only one w/ enough juice for my power hungry Dell Axim x51v). D+ and D- NOT shorted.
result: 1 = work, 2 = not work, 3 = not work.
Then I shorted both 2 and 3
result: 1 = work, 2 = not work, 3 = not work.
It seem shorten D+ and D- does not change the result. Just about to conclude I didn't prove anything and about to give up, and I try a different USB to mini-USB cable. It surprise me all of them are working!!!
From the pic below, the charging icon of battery status mean the cable is connected. Current w/ a plus sign mean the Tilt is being charge
Cable 1:
{
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Cable2:
Therefore, I conclude:
1. it turns out my AT&T Tilt are very picky about the USB cable quality.
2. For cigar to USB adapter, maximum support current and the quality may not very important.
3. We may or we may not need to shorten D+ and D- since I don't want to spend time to unshort them.
p.s. I still don't understand why cable 1 gives bigger charge on adapter 1 but refuse to charge on the rest, while cable 2 give consistent charge on all adapter. I re-test several times but gives the same result.

Short Pin 5 (+5V) and Pin 4 (unused). And tell me what happens.

JimmyMcGee said:
Short Pin 5 (+5V) and Pin 4 (unused). And tell me what happens.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The mini-usb plug is too tiny for me to work on it. I will pass it to whoever has the tool to test it.

Right, as I posted earlier, I have 3 cheap car chargers - 1 with integral cable and 2 that are just the adapter and require a separate cable. None charge my phone. A usb cable that works from my pc fails to charge in the car.
So, I bought a genuine HTC car charger. I fully expected this to work fine, but it doesn't. It does exactly the same as the cheapo chargers - My phone shows the amber charging light for a minute or two, then it goes out. No charging takes place at all. The battery icon shows charging all the time the cable is plugged in though.
My ciggarette socket is fine and supplies enough current to make the ciggarette lighter thingy glow hot.
/baffled.

chaps said:
Right, as I posted earlier, I have 3 cheap car chargers - 1 with integral cable and 2 that are just the adapter and require a separate cable. None charge my phone. A usb cable that works from my pc fails to charge in the car.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Do you have other USB cable to try?

Hey all, No i have not yet found a solution for this problem. I believe I have a genuine HTC charger or at least an AT&T one because i got it witha bundle with my phone from AT&T. I am looking at the USB plug and it seems to be bent down a bit on the right side as you are looking at it.
I think i might talk to my girlfriends cousin who works for AT&T and see if he can be awesome and replace it for me without me having to put the AT&T crap back on there for an actual warranty return.
still charges at home wall plug in and syncs with my computer just fine

This is how i get around this happens, though it sucks if you're using it as a navigation device. When it stops chagrining through the car adapter, I leave the cable plugged into teh phone and the cigarette/power adapter and do a soft reset. This seems to clear it up somehow and it starts charging.

My Mod: Extended 2400mah battery with induction charging

I didn't buy the HTC extended battery but one from amazon sold by Karen Deals. Link is below
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0..._m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_r=0NVM3EA1B2VE9HN3AKMA
Battery
Model No: cs-ht8585xl
Part No: 35h000128-00m, ba s400
Rating: 3.7v 2400mah
Lithium Ion
Induction Unit
Palm Pixi charging back with Palm touchstone charging dock
Operating System
Shubcraft 1.4d
Video:
Images are attached below!
Induction charging has the same charging speed as plugging it into a wall outlet. Very fast!
Sidenote:
I tried using a multimeter with the 3 contacts located under the battery and could not get it to register anything (with and without the charger plugged in). I then tried shooting 5v through it using 6 different combination (2 plugs for 3 contacts) and still couldn't get anything. If anyone knows a way to use these 3 contacts for charging please leave feedback. Also if anyone can find a minature microusb male connection that'd be great.

Well done, it's a really nice mod!
The 2400 mAh is a bit too bulky for me, though the extended uptime must be awesome. I'd even consider something similar, were it not that you're using the microusb to charge. If only you could connect it straight to the battery, would be so much more convenient. It'd still work in for instance car kits and attached to a pc.
Never the less, well done.

Looks great, i would try this myself but i cant stand the bulk of extended batteries and the stock metal back would almost defiantly interfere with the current. Where did you get the decal from?

Angelusz said:
Well done, it's a really nice mod!
The 2400 mAh is a bit too bulky for me, though the extended uptime must be awesome. I'd even consider something similar, were it not that you're using the microusb to charge. If only you could connect it straight to the battery, would be so much more convenient. It'd still work in for instance car kits and attached to a pc.
Never the less, well done.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You can't plug in directly to the battery since the battery doesn't have a balancer board on it and it would explode if it were to be overcharged without one.
JJbdoggg said:
Looks great, i would try this myself but i cant stand the bulk of extended batteries and the stock metal back would almost defiantly interfere with the current. Where did you get the decal from?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I got the decal in the automotive section of Walmart. It came with 2 big/4small stickers for 7usd
UPDATE: Made the microusb head smaller! Letting liquid electrical tape dry then I'll post pics.

this is a really nice mod. what about the possiblly of going via the nav panel connectors instead of micro usb. this would as far as i know leave the usb port free and also not have the disadvantage of having a usb connector attached which can be easily damged.
Personalyu i wouldnt do this mod as i use my phone to tether a hell of a lot so it seems pointless to me, but being able to just sit your phone down and have it charge is awesome.
Great work!!!!

veda_sticks said:
this is a really nice mod. what about the possiblly of going via the nav panel connectors instead of micro usb. this would as far as i know leave the usb port free and also not have the disadvantage of having a usb connector attached which can be easily damged.
Personalyu i wouldnt do this mod as i use my phone to tether a hell of a lot so it seems pointless to me, but being able to just sit your phone down and have it charge is awesome.
Great work!!!!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I tired the navpanel connections with no success. If anyone has a multimeter please try to do it to theirs (with charger plugged in).

that is really odd....only think i can think of is manye theres something that needs to happen with the middle pin.

nice work i think that decal are very cute indeed!

PPL this is knowed from a long time! This pins are used for example with Car Kit like CU s400: http://www.slashgear.com/htc-hd2-cu-s400-car-kit-gets-priced-detailed-coming-december-1360143/
This car kit is in two versions: like this on 1st photo - use other battery cover which use this "mysterious" pins to run NaviPanel and charging battery and 2nd version with charging via microUSB port.
I hope this helps a bit.
veda_sticks said:
that is really odd....only think i can think of is manye theres something that needs to happen with the middle pin.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
This "odd" middle pin you can find in every phone battery too. If you depart any battery you can find there a little electronic circuit.
I think, that this pin is used to metering battery charge, but i can be wrong - im not advanced in electornics.

I'm well aware of the existance of these products but cannot figure out what the three contacts below the batteries are.

Maybe some users having one. In that case he/she can make photos of all connectors or better - check it with multimeter which connector is +, - and this middle one.
Maybe some service manuals can tell something more abt this. I searched for it and i did'nt find nothing useful.

FRANQ_23_PL said:
Maybe some users having one. In that case he/she can make photos of all connectors or better - check it with multimeter which connector is +, - and this middle one.
Maybe some service manuals can tell something more abt this. I searched for it and i did'nt find nothing useful.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I also did a search on google and xda but with no luck. I don't think it inputs 5v into the machine since I did shoot 5v into the 3 connectors using different combination.

Hi all,
The contact closest to the center of the phone (looking along the longest axis of the phone) is the +5V, the one furthest from the +5V is the ground, and there's a small voltage on the center contact, positive to ground. These +5V voltage shows up (on my phone) only when the mini-USB charger is plugged in.
I've got the +5V terminal of the Pre plate attached to the +5V contact on the phone, and the other one attached to the GND contact. Inductive charging works at 341ma (as measure by the hardware and read by BattClock) at maximum, which is probably not coincidentally also the limit set on USB charging, at least from my laptop.
I tried hooking the Touchstone up to a Apple ~1" cubed charger, didn't get any charge. I haven't read the USB power specifications, but according to the people at the Palm forums you have to have a USB spec power-capable charger to initialize the Touchstone, and the USB ICs signal this by connecting the two data lines. This can be approximated by clipping a USB cable and twisting the data lines together on the Touchstone side of the cable. This allowed the Apple charger to power the Touchstone.
The HTC stock charger works fine, as does an 800ma Verizon charger I had laying around. I tried hooking the Touchstone up to both a [email protected] switching charger and a 5V 8A supply, the Touchstone still charged at 341ma. I'm guessing this is software, firmware or hardware limited, just like the computer USB connection. I would speculate that if you shorted the middle pin to the ground pin, it might remove this restriction. Or fry your phone, I didn't try it.
There's a guy on the Pre forums who got the Touchstone to consume about 1.02A (http://forums.precentral.net/palm-p...b-adapters-touchstone-dock-2.html#post2020491) so the thing can, apparently transfer some power. I don't know how long it would last at those wattages, but I'm going to read a bit on the USB power spec and see if the 341ma limit can be lifted.
It's kind of nice to use the internal connector, because it leaves the microUSB port open. If anyone has any questions feel free to ask. With the relevant portion of the Pre cover stuck to the back of my phone, there are no wires out of the chassis and the added part doesn't add any considerable bulk to the phone. It protrudes less than the camera.
Anyways, hope this isn't a thread-jack or too long, but I figured it might help anyone that's going to take the time to do this.
Thanks to the community here.

Did you dremel and hotglue the plastic case to the metal case? Interweb highfive from me to you!
Can you post pictures of the inside wiring please?

I did. I basically cut out a square from the HD2 back large enough to hold the coiled length of wire that is needed to allow the back to be removed and articulated. Then I used Super Glue to fix the section of the Pre back containing the inductive coil and circuitry to the HD2 back.
If you're trying to maintain your warranty I might suggest DigiKey part number 478-4687-1-ND, it's from the AVX "MOBO Spring Contact Interconnect Solutions" catalog under battery connectors (I can send you a .pdf copy of the catalog, it's too big to upload to forum). This is a 3mm pitch connector that should mate well with the internal connector - but - I don't have calipers so I would measure before ordering. I just soldered the wires to my HD2.
I'll post some pictures soonish.
And yeah, high five for sure. Thanks for pioneering this. My last phone was retired when the power connector became flaky, so it's nice not to have to worry about the contact wearing out.

Ur mod is on a dutch popular website!
http://tweakers.net/nieuws/69360/mod-maakt-draadloos-laden-mogelijk-op-htc-hd2.html

Right angle micro-usb
I'm looking to do the same thing with my Vibrant and have been searching for a similar connector. I just did a quick google search and found these angled connectors:
http://www.usbfirewire.com/u_microb_cables_angled.html

I tried soldering it your way with no sucess
Soldering pins are as shown
(If viewing vertically with top up)
(leftside of hd2) negative x positive (center of hd2)

bumping an old thread to see if you've taken pictures of the contact points yet.

Sorry it took me so long to reply. Two pictures, the first is the terminal with the wires soldered in, the second shows how I got the cables from the Palm coil/board through the cover. The terminals as you look along the longest axis of the phone with the microUSB plug closest to you are GND, something, and +5v.
So from left to right: 1 GND / 2 ? / 3 +5v.

[Nexus 7] Adding internal USB for other devices (HUB,microSD,FM,flash-storage,etc...)

The project-Adding internal USB for other devices (HUB,micro SD,FM,flash-storage,etc...).
We should have a few deferent options to connect USB internally. This thread should cover them all.
I really want to find a easy solderless method(plug/clips) I have a few ideas but would need to find the female and male connectors for the front camera or maybe soundboard connectors.
or
maybe disconnect the micro USB from the ribbon and run it up to the hub then back to the micro USB connector from the HUB that's one reason for the hub, so we can add a micro SD, a rear camera and the last port (HUB only has 3 ports active, it might be possible to find a different HUB that has 4 ports but this one only had 3) for ether some more flash storage or to hook up the solderless mod to mother board.
We can use the micro USB connection at bottom of the mother board a couple different ways. We could use both the data and power from the connector. We could also just use the data +/- from the micro USB connector and use the power from a different power source like the 7.4V from the battery and drop it down to 5V but none of the wires are 7.4v there is two running at 3.7v, if we could find the 7.4v on the board or a connector somewhere this could be done

Some pics
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http://s10.postimage.org/6zg4euc21/N7_cable.jpg

Does this mod actually work or is that last picture just what it might look like?

atticusmas said:
Does this mod actually work or is that last picture just what it might look like?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Not yet, Just trying to find some other wiring options and parts before I wire it up.

Would this guy be similar to the nexus tablet?
nabitablet .com/specs/nabi2
amazon. com/Fuhu-NABI-NABI2-NV7A-7-Inch-Tablet/dp/B008DBI5RI/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1342981188&sr=8-4&keywords=nabi+2+tablet
Maybe the board could be close, find out how to use the microSD slot on the nexus 7 tablet?
(sorry about the chopped up url's, I guess I can't post links yet)

I Found this little USB HUB and it fits perfect.
This is it before it got striped
Still just in mock up and not connected yet, but it does still close up fine. So I'm pretty sure a hub is a go(for me anyway) and still have room for some flash storage that will go where the rear camera should have gone or just beside the hub

Has anything happened with this project?

Camping for a few days with the family, then back at it.

Wow that's awesome man! Keep on the good work!!
Envoyé depuis mon Nexus 7 avec Tapatalk

What do you mean by an issue with remounting when you use the power from the USB? I had read somewhere about someone shorting two pins to make the mod work but you could no longer charge and would need a switch to deactivate the short to charge it. If any switch is needed to change anything physically then I was thinking the tiny type that you press with a pen head or similar, that is recessed.
I hope you make progress when your back on it. I ordered the usb otg cable and have some tiny micro sdhc readers that slide into a usb slot that are as thin as a reg. sd card. I figured I could solder wires onto one and mount it for the card reader. I was thinking to use hot glue or similar between the soldered connections for safety since it isnt easy to get factory type solder joints all the time on small stuff (even though I am decent at soldering).
I hope someone can come up with the software hack needed to be able to actually mount the micro sd and install to it like any other tablet can.
Thanks for the pictures and work you are doing, I am sure many are watching :good:

Just a few comments on this project:
If you put a hub or device in then it requires that you operate the tablet's USB interface in host mode.
Normally, something supplies power and will not accept power for charging when in host mode.
There are hacks to get around this, but I'd see if I could get this all working externally before I started modifying.
You could end up with your hub idea working find, but you are unable to charge the tablet.
When you do lay the cables in, twist the data pair and leave the two power leads straight.

This looks awesome! Can't wait to see the tutorial if one becomes available, these devices get me in trouble!
Sent from my Nexus 7 using xda app-developers app

Have been watching this thread with great interest as well. Indeed, I always only lurked on XDA, this piqued my interest enough to actually join.
Fingers crossed for OP!
Sent from my Nexus 7 using xda app-developers app

Hub fits I just need to come up with a 5V power somehow got the Data and ground figured. Can someone come up with any ideas to create 5V power, maybe some fancy circuitry to bump the power from battery to 5V?

iAppleDev said:
Hub fits I just need to come up with a 5V power somehow got the Data and ground figured. Can someone come up with any ideas to create 5V power, maybe some fancy circuitry to bump the power from battery to 5V?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
What model number hub did you use, does that have the USB OTG built in to it?
I am going to ask a few people in another type of forum about the voltage, a few on there know more than I on this topic. What is the battery stock voltage? I first was thinking resisters but I think we would need to know the exact current going through it to determine the right size. I am searching for tiny DC voltage regulators to see what I can find also, but wasn't sure the stock voltage. Here is some info on DC voltage regulators youtube.com/watch?v=GSzVs7_aW-Y&feature=fvwrel I cant post links yet so it doesn't have the www . The video talks about regulating DC voltage to power 5volt usb devices.
Do you think anyone will have a custom ROM or other hack so we can mount and install to the micro SDHC card once this mod is complete? Because that is what I want before I go this far.
Glad your back at it though! Thanks for your work on this.

Normally the 5V power to external devices is fed from a charge pump in the USB PHY interface chipset.
Some non-standard implementations only supply 3.7V battery power.
3.7V may/may not be enough for your hub and SD card.
If you are using 3.7V to a standard USB/SD card adapter, you might try bypassing the LDO in the adapter.
Also, many devices can only host about 100 mA.
Both hubs and USB/SD card adapters can be current hogs.
I think that some actually experimentation is called for before taking a Dremel tool to your tablet.

Renate NST said:
Normally the 5V power to external devices is fed from a charge pump in the USB PHY interface chipset.
Some non-standard implementations only supply 3.7V battery power.
3.7V may/may not be enough for your hub and SD card.
If you are using 3.7V to a standard USB/SD card adapter, you might try bypassing the LDO in the adapter.
Also, many devices can only host about 100 mA.
Both hubs and USB/SD card adapters can be current hogs.
I think that some actually experimentation is called for before taking a Dremel tool to your tablet.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Wouldn't it be best to us a non powered usb hub to split the usb connection? I doubt a small keyboard would use much and as far as I go, I would only use the usb for a small case sized keyboard, charging the device and the micro sdhc card/reader.
So is the battery only 3.7 volts? I was thinking it might be more and we needed to step down, so we need to step it up for the micro sdhc reader?

eBandit078 said:
So is the battery only 3.7 volts? I was thinking it might be more and we needed to step down, so we need to step it up for the micro sdhc reader?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It's actually two 3.7v Li-Poly cells set up in series for a total of 7.4v. As pointed out (rather rudely) in a prior post, the leads aren't spliced on the pack itself so that a 5v USB input can charge the batteries. My old Acer A100 actually had the batteries spliced so that a 12v charger was needed. It had very weak battery life, but the upside was that the 12V charger would take it from 15% to 100% is a little less than an hour.

Renate NST said:
If you put a hub or device in then it requires that you operate the tablet's USB interface in host mode.
Normally, something supplies power and will not accept power for charging when in host mode.
There are hacks to get around this, but I'd see if I could get this all working externally before I started modifying.
You could end up with your hub idea working find, but you are unable to charge the tablet.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Very good points. You may be happy to know that the USB specification recently provided a means for charging an OTG device while in host mode. It's called "Accessory Charger Adapter". See Chapter 6, and in particular Figure 6-2 from the specification:
www.usb.org/developers/devclass_docs/BCv1.2_070312.zip
If you could nail this down, you might solve a bunch of challenges with the +5V supply at once. Not sure what it would take to implement though. A cursory search for dedicated ICs didn't produce anything for me.
Renate NST said:
When you do lay the cables in, twist the data pair and leave the two power leads straight.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
:good: Second that suggestion.

So this device runs on 7.4V dual Li-ion batteries?
Is there a separate charger input or only over the USB?