Hello
I had gone out to get a car charger for the XDA Exec. i went to the t-mobile shop and they gave me a car charger for the motorola V3 and said it would work.
i have not tried it, but my brother who has an imate jasjar tried it and it does not seem to work with his device.
both the XDA & V3 use a USB cable from the PC to charge them up, that made me think they could use the same car charger, what do you guys think?
u need to think about the voltage of the charger u have, you should never use a charger that was never designed for your device.
even if it is fractionally dfferent, this could cause anything from failure of your device to fire, etc. you should have got a charger from an o2 shop, I got one and it was only 15 quid. works perfectly and was designed for universal devices.
The main problem here is the current the charger will deliver.
I have 1 exec that will only just charge from an 850 m amp charger the 2nd exec wont charge at all. You really need a charger that will deliver 5v 1 amp to charge effectively.
I stuggled to find such a charger but the active holder from Brodit does the job superbley. i got mine from
www.gpsforless.co.uk
Regards
The Pilgrim
thanks for the replies
so it is the current specifications which is the problem!!
i geuss the voltage spec is nto a problem, since the USB outlet should guarantee volts between 4.75 and 5.25, correct?
i guess the comp based charging works, cause the computer can provided as many amps as required, correct?
but why would one xda charge up and the other wont.
resistor tolerances ??
what about the charging algorithm , once the battery charges up, what prevents the charger to push more juice into the xda exec. likewise with the ccmputerbasec charager?
Can i use a car charger meant for the t-mobile MDA Pro with the O2 XDA EXEC or with the i-mate jasjar, or are the specifications different?
the_pilgrim said:
The main problem here is the current the charger will deliver.
I have 1 exec that will only just charge from an 850 m amp charger the 2nd exec wont charge at all. You really need a charger that will deliver 5v 1 amp to charge effectively.
I stuggled to find such a charger but the active holder from Brodit does the job superbley. i got mine from
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That's strange, true computer USB ports only deliver 500 mA and it appears to charge just fine, if very slowly, on one of those. Razr chargers are not entirely the same as regular USB chargers, the Razr uses the extra USB pin (mini has 5, regular has 4) to tell it what kind of device is connected, cradle, computer, etc. It's possible that the Uni chokes on that.
As an experiment, I hooked a 400 mA (specced) USB adapter to my MDA Pro, the charge light comes on. It's at 70% battery at 1:00 am local time. I'll check again a bit later to see if it actually charged.
[Edit: It's 22 minutes or so later and I've moved to 76%, while the PDA was otherwise turned off. That confirms that it's very, very slow. Also, the adapter was pretty warm, it may have been running over its rating.]
I'm not sure how much this experiment is worth though, I've got a near duplicate of this adapter with a different colour that's specced at 1000 mA (and in fact they're now selling the same outer plastic with a 2000 mA rating). If the insides are as similar as the outside, the other one's just underrated, but it's possible that the insides are actually different.
Re:Voltage, as far as I know, anything that uses a USB charger is 5V so should be intercompatible. This statement does not come with any express or implied warranty of fitness and I will not be replacing any devices you fry.
Still, though, most devices tend to run on "be liberal in what you accept" -- my Nokias charge on anything from at least 3 to 8 volts. I wouldn't be surprised if the uni is the same, but I won't be testing that out anytime soon. At least not without reloading the original rom first in case I'd need to warranty it.
xda_guy said:
what about the charging algorithm , once the battery charges up, what prevents the charger to push more juice into the xda exec. likewise with the ccmputerbasec charager?
Can i use a car charger meant for the t-mobile MDA Pro with the O2 XDA EXEC or with the i-mate jasjar, or are the specifications different?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
All the universals are identical to a much closer look than simply charging. The only thing that's different there is the colour, a charger colour coordinated with an MDA Pro isn't with a jasjar.
The name 'charger' is really a misnomer. What 'chargers' actually do is provide a (semi-[1])constant voltage at a certain maximum number of amps, ie, they're *power supplies*. The actual charger which takjes care of the battery charging algorythm is integrated inside the Uni. All the 'charger' needs to do is make electricity of the kind that the *actual* charging chip inside is designed to run on.
[1] Most chargers, even original equipment let alone aftermarket, are highly crappily regulated.
Get one from a local orange store - 10 quid for a spv500 one, works great.
actually i tried to charge a second razr using my comp and it woudl not charge up? does this mean the current spec varies from device to device, even within the same device
if one messes up the uni by charging it using a charger from a different make, it is still under warranty?
hey jasper
The only thing that's different there is the colour, a charger colour coordinated with an MDA Pro isn't with a jasjar.
what do you mean by colour coordinated
The name 'charger' is really a misnomer. What 'chargers' actually do is provide a (semi-[1])constant voltage at a certain maximum number of amps, ie, they're *power supplies*. The actual charger which takjes care of the battery charging algorythm is integrated inside the Uni. All the 'charger' needs to do is make electricity of the kind that the *actual* charging chip inside is designed to run on.
does this mean that charging algorithm is actually within the phone itself, i mean when the phine is 100% charged, how does it know that it should not charge any more?
so there are 2 types of USB sockets, one with 5 pins and the other with 4 pins. did nto the standard USB have 4 pins?
is the 10 quid charger from the orange store meant for an actual spv5000? the t-mobile store gave me 2 chargers which they said were meant for the razr and the ysaid it would work just fine on the razr
re orange 10 quid charger - no idea. i read on a forum that someone else had got one and said it worked, so i got one too and it worked great.
previously I had used the supplied usb cable with a car adaptor and it couldn't keep up with running tomtom, so the battery would go flat. with this charger i can run tomtom and the device charges fine too.
thanks for the reply
you had received a usb cable with a car adaptor ? was this a unit which plugged into the cig lighter socket of the car
hi
this charger works with the exec and charges it quickly
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/CAR-CHARGER-O...itemZ5849569917QQcategoryZ48674QQcmdZViewItem
xda_guy said:
thanks for the reply
you had received a usb cable with a car adaptor ? was this a unit which plugged into the cig lighter socket of the car
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The cable was the standard one supplied. the car adaptor does plug into the cigarette lighter socket - one was supplied with a palm t3 car kit, another with an ipaq car kit. both never worked as previously stated (showed charging but failed to keep up with battery drain in use).
xda_guy said:
The only thing that's different there is the colour, a charger colour coordinated with an MDA Pro isn't with a jasjar.
what do you mean by colour coordinated
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I mean that if you get a silver charger, same colour as the MDA Pro, it will not be a black charger, same as the Jasjar. So it may not look quite as cool, but it'll work just fine.
The name 'charger' is really a misnomer. What 'chargers' actually do is provide a (semi-[1])constant voltage at a certain maximum number of amps, ie, they're *power supplies*. The actual charger which takjes care of the battery charging algorythm is integrated inside the Uni. All the 'charger' needs to do is make electricity of the kind that the *actual* charging chip inside is designed to run on.
does this mean that charging algorithm is actually within the phone itself, i mean when the phine is 100% charged, how does it know that it should not charge any more?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
There are three components that have to do with charging: First there's the battery. It's got four contacts (+, -, and two others) which means it's probably a smart or at least semi-smart battery, which has internal sensors for temperature etc, either directly wired to outside or with a small chip to multiplex the lot onto just 2 wires, then there's a chip inside the phone which does the actual charging, it probably knows how full the battery is by measuring the output voltage, and regulates charge current based on that and the temperature., and communicates that to the OS. Then there's the so-called 'charger' outside the phone, or the USB cable, which simply provides the raw electricity to work with.
so there are 2 types of USB sockets, one with 5 pins and the other with 4 pins. did nto the standard USB have 4 pins?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Standard 'large' USB ports, both the ones found on your PC (long rectangular in crossection, 'type A') and the ones like are on a printer (more squarish in crosssection, 'type-B') have 4 pins. There was at one time a mini-USB with 4 pins as well, bit that was never common and is highly obsolete. And then there's the regular mini-USB we have these days, which has 5 pins. It comes in three variants which look almost the same: Mini-B, which you get on things like digicams, external cardreaders, etc ('slave devices'), and on the end of the USB cables that came with your universal (since it acts as a slave device when hooked to a PC), then there's mini-A, which is for computers that can't fit a fullsize one (rare), and then there's mini-AB, which can be used by both mini-A and mini-B plugs, and is the physical port found on the universal. These should be used by PDAs that provide USB-Host functionality, that is, you can hook them to a PC and they'll act as a slave device, but then you can hook them to a car reader or external hard drive and they'll act as host. Unfortunately, while the Universal has the physical mini-AB port, it doesn't *actually* support USB-Host functionality.
thanks for the info on the usb connectors
I got this.
Works in your car AND in a standard wall outlet in case you dont have a laptop or computer around to do power over usb.
http://www.boxwave.com/products/versacharger/index.htm
{
"lightbox_close": "Close",
"lightbox_next": "Next",
"lightbox_previous": "Previous",
"lightbox_error": "The requested content cannot be loaded. Please try again later.",
"lightbox_start_slideshow": "Start slideshow",
"lightbox_stop_slideshow": "Stop slideshow",
"lightbox_full_screen": "Full screen",
"lightbox_thumbnails": "Thumbnails",
"lightbox_download": "Download",
"lightbox_share": "Share",
"lightbox_zoom": "Zoom",
"lightbox_new_window": "New window",
"lightbox_toggle_sidebar": "Toggle sidebar"
}
They even have an airplane adaptor in the case that your favorite airline has outlets...
I NEVER leave home w/o this thing...like EVER...
xda_guy said:
does this mean that charging algorithm is actually within the phone itself, i mean when the phine is 100% charged, how does it know that it should not charge any more?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
When the battery reaches its maximum capacity the voltage dips slightly. the chargers in the phone detect this and stop charging.
Regards
The Pilgrim
xda guy
You can use your V3 car charger to charge your Exec. I do although it doesn't charge as fast as your mains charger or one designed specifically for it. It's something to do with the milli amps output.
However, it won't charge unless you plug it in with the clam Closed and the device OFF. You can subsequently open the clam and/or turn it on (for example if your running TT) and it continues to charge. If you plug the charger in with the device on, switch it off and it will charge (you can then turn it back on).
BTW - The V3 mains charger WON'T charge the Exec !!!
I use the one from Brodit, supplied by www.dsldevelopments.com and it works a treat. Never any problems, and Brodit gear is always top notch!
Ant
thanks for the replies
hey does the versacharger work with all mobile phones?
voltage of the battery dips slightly?
However, it won't charge unless you plug it in with the clam Closed and the device OFF. You can subsequently open the clam and/or turn it on (for example if your running TT) and it continues to charge. If you plug the charger in with the device on, switch it off and it will charge (you can then turn it back on).
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
hey how do you turn the exec off?
hey how do you turn the exec off?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
ermmm, with the on/off button !
Related
When I plug my MDA Pro into my PC it draws 460mA of current at 4.75V and the orange charging light always comes on.
I have bought a car charger - when the MDA Pro is plugged into that it also draws 460mA at 5.04V but the Pro doesn't always seem to realise it is being charged - the orange charging light doesn't come on and the backlight switches off so I cant see the SatNav! (when the light goes off the current goes down to 430mA)
The charger was bought of eBay from shop4hardware/PCglobe for £9.99 and it looks well made.
Any ideas what is going wrong? Has anyone got a 12V charger they are happy with - if so where did it come from and how much??
ceemjay the tight fisted
I bought a car charger off eBay, and while the orange light does come on and stay on, it doesn't seem to charge very effectively. If i'm using something like TomTom the charger manages to keep the battery charge level just about constant, rather than building up charge.
Is this a problem with the Universal? I had a Blue Angel before the Universal, and the car charger I had for that was very effective.
Cheers
Rowan
I had this problem too and solved it by purchasing an "orange" (UK mobile phone operator) branded charger for 10 quid from one of their shops. I have no issues now.
What i did notice when I had the problem was by ensuring the xda was off prior to plugging in the old charger, it would continue to stay orange when turned on. I think this problem is a common one with the usb cable & car charger adaptors combo.
i bought one from expansys, what i noticed:
1. It takes a lot of jiggling, pushing, pulling and twisting to get it recognised by the device (organge light on)
2. When it charges, it does so slowly, i think about 1% per 10 minutes or so, or about 10% per hour.
My two bobs worth anyway.
Many of the mini USB car chargers are simply not powerful enough to charge these devices. They all have the same voltage but the amps are different. I read somewhere that good M5000 car chargers should be rated at 1amp, I'm not sure about this but I've certainly had trouble with ones at around 600mah.
With the under powered chargers you often have to plug them in while the device is switched off. Even then it's not going to charge as well or as quickly. Getting them to start charging without turning you device off is just down to luck and patience.
My advice is to look for chargers that are specific for the M5000 etc. If it also mentions Motorola phones etc, then it's not going to have the required power output.
I hope this helps...
I bought an ORA one from a service station (phone bitz type shop), it was a bit expensive but I needed one in a hurry and you can test them in the store.
as per my earlier post - m5000 is orange branded htc universal, aka o2 xda exec. I believe mine stated it was for the spv500 and it still worked fine...
The universal wants a 2 amp charger really. the 0.5 amp from most chargers including USB ports just is not enough to do much more than stop your battery draining whilst your universal is in use !! other useful alternatives include the charger meant for the newish blackberry
Thanks for all the comments.
The charger that comes with the Pro is rated at 1A however I believe the USB spec only allows up to 500mA to be drawn (as I orginally posted it draws just below that) and I have never had a problem with charging via USB. Hence my confusion!
Is the charging software controlled and might there may be a bug which manifests itself under circumstances?
Clive
The Brodit active holder charges the universal first time everytime, and is a very good place to store the phone on the move. I've got a 3.5mm input on my car stereo and use my phone as my in car music source. If I could get a 3.5mm 4 pole to 3.5mm stereo plug and breakout mic it would be perfect since I could use it as decent handsfree solution, voice command can still use the built in mic when the stereo connection is inserted but the phone app doesn't.
The Brodit holders are nice. I prefer the unpowered version, so I use a separate charger cable. But I agree good holders.
Since I upgraded my Trinity using the official HTC rom update I have found that my device will not charge when it's in the brodit active holder in my car. The orange light comes on as if it is charging but when i check the power status i note the power drop over a period of time.
The device will charge without any problem when it is connected to my PC via the usb cable, it also charges without any problem when i use the mains power adaptor.
Initially I thought perhaps my brodit was faulty so i bought a new one, still i have the same problem.
Any suggestions from anyone?
Thanks,
Robert
I recognized very slow charging with my device over USB in comparison to my older PDAs. The reason must be something with the available current over USB (max. 500 mA). Maybe this is also the reason for your problem with the Brodit holder.
Try a separate car charger. They are available quite cheap with a standard USB plug.
Wookie said:
I recognized very slow charging with my device over USB in comparison to my older PDAs. The reason must be something with the available current over USB (max. 500 mA). Maybe this is also the reason for your problem with the Brodit holder.
Try a separate car charger. They are available quite cheap with a standard USB plug.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hmm, this is a question that needs answering. On my Prophet I could plug it into my car 12v cig with an 850mah usb adapter and it would power the device for navigation and also charge it at the same time. Now with my Trinity, it seems to have a hard time keeping up, so I bought a new high powered adapter (2,000mah). It still doesn't seem to be charging very fast although it seems to be able to keep up with the device power usage. Is there a charging problem with the Trinity with some roms?
After trying multiple car chargers, most of which wouldn't even power the charge light on my Trin let alone charge the battery I opted to spend a few quid and bought the Carcomm CMPC-96. It works a treat and charges the battery very quickly even when i'm running tomtom and making and taking calls at the same time. I can't figure out why my brodit holders wouldn't produce enough power to charge the battery but this Carcomm product is the Dogs !
I tried to charge my Tilt today using the Car Charger that I got with it from AT&T but it isn't working. I accidently jammed my stylus into the mini usb port a few weeks ago andthen but it didn't look any different and nothing seemed to break off. It will still charge with my wall charger at home and will still sync with my computer. I know that the car charger is supposed to charge my phone faster but it should still use the same connections as my regular one..right? Could it be the ROM possibly? I can't test this right now because I am at work and my phone won't sync with my work computer.
Sorry if this is in the wrong forum please move if it is.
Check the cigarette plug in your car, sometimes it can be full with dirt on the connector in the car.
I had the same problem today and cleaned it out just with a screwdriver so that its connecting now.
Well the light on the charger is lit so I assume there is power going to it and it works with my mom's razr charger. The USB port actually looks dirty but I wouldnt know how to clean it out lol
bartimeus said:
I tried to charge my Tilt today using the Car Charger that I got with it from AT&T but it isn't working. I accidently jammed my stylus into the mini usb port a few weeks ago andthen but it didn't look any different and nothing seemed to break off. It will still charge with my wall charger at home and will still sync with my computer. I know that the car charger is supposed to charge my phone faster but it should still use the same connections as my regular one..right? Could it be the ROM possibly? I can't test this right now because I am at work and my phone won't sync with my work computer.
Sorry if this is in the wrong forum please move if it is.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I had issues with my Tilt not charging in the car, which turned out to be a weird issue with CardExport. I had the CardExport tray icon set to autostart, and my phone would not charge in the car - only when connected to a PC. Disabling the CardExport tray icon and doing a soft reset fixed it. Now if I need to use CardExport I just start it manually.
HTH
Check your mini-usb connector on the phone, if the bit in the middle doesnt seem level it won't charge at full speed
bartimeus - Did you ever find a solution to this? I have been using Igo on my phone in the car heavily over the past few days for long trips. I have 3 car chargers and all wont charge the phone (resulting in no loss of satnav :-S).
Oddly, my phone shows that it is charging - sometimes only for a few minutes, sometimes continuosly - but it doesn't.
I accidentally shoved my stylus in the USB port too about 10 months ago and i wonder if this is a result of that. Odd it charges from a PC by usb and mains though - but not via a car charger.
I found that any of the Cheap ass Chargers I used won't charge it. I'm waiting for my HTC made one to arrive so I can find out if there is an issue.
I read on a thread a while back about pin 4 and pin 5 need to be soldered together for the Kaiser to want to charge.
pharaohamps said:
I had issues with my Tilt not charging in the car, which turned out to be a weird issue with CardExport. I had the CardExport tray icon set to autostart, and my phone would not charge in the car - only when connected to a PC. Disabling the CardExport tray icon and doing a soft reset fixed it. Now if I need to use CardExport I just start it manually.
HTH
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have this problem but have never used cardexport... any known fixes?
JimmyMcGee said:
I found that any of the Cheap ass Chargers I used won't charge it. I'm waiting for my HTC made one to arrive so I can find out if there is an issue.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
My car chargers are 'cheap ass' Ebay purchases. Please let me know how the HTC charger gets on.
Not sure if this is the case for Tytn II, my Asus P525 need to have the middle 2 pins (D+ and D-) short in order to charge.
jackleung said:
Not sure if this is the case for Tytn II, my Asus P525 need to have the middle 2 pins (D+ and D-) short in order to charge.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I vaguely remember reading that some people shorted Pins 4 and 5 and it worked.
JimmyMcGee said:
I vaguely remember reading that some people shorted Pins 4 and 5 and it worked.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I don't know how you come up w/ Pin5 as USB has only 4 pins (5+, Ground, D+, D-). Read the spec here: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/USB
I will do the mod on one of my adapter tonight and verify it
jackleung said:
I don't know how you come up w/ Pin5 as USB has only 4 pins (5+, Ground, D+, D-). Read the spec here: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/USB
I will do the mod on one of my adapter tonight and verify it
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Look for Mini-B It has Five Connections. That's what I'm referring too.
JimmyMcGee said:
Look for Mini-B It has Five Connections. That's what I'm referring too.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Then it would be pin 2 and pin3 for D+ and D-.
Ok, let me share what I found so far and the result turns out to be very surprising. I have 3 different cigarette to usb adapter (yes, I got lot of gadgets to feed in my car. ). And the test are done w/ maximum backlight and A2DP music to my JVC BT-1.
1. Cheapo w/o current rating label, (I guess it's about ~500ma). D+ and D- shorted
2. Another cheapo rated w/ 650ma. D+ and D- NOT shorted
3. An expensive one w/ rated at 2A (yes, this is the only one w/ enough juice for my power hungry Dell Axim x51v). D+ and D- NOT shorted.
result: 1 = work, 2 = not work, 3 = not work.
Then I shorted both 2 and 3
result: 1 = work, 2 = not work, 3 = not work.
It seem shorten D+ and D- does not change the result. Just about to conclude I didn't prove anything and about to give up, and I try a different USB to mini-USB cable. It surprise me all of them are working!!!
From the pic below, the charging icon of battery status mean the cable is connected. Current w/ a plus sign mean the Tilt is being charge
Cable 1:
{
"lightbox_close": "Close",
"lightbox_next": "Next",
"lightbox_previous": "Previous",
"lightbox_error": "The requested content cannot be loaded. Please try again later.",
"lightbox_start_slideshow": "Start slideshow",
"lightbox_stop_slideshow": "Stop slideshow",
"lightbox_full_screen": "Full screen",
"lightbox_thumbnails": "Thumbnails",
"lightbox_download": "Download",
"lightbox_share": "Share",
"lightbox_zoom": "Zoom",
"lightbox_new_window": "New window",
"lightbox_toggle_sidebar": "Toggle sidebar"
}
Cable2:
Therefore, I conclude:
1. it turns out my AT&T Tilt are very picky about the USB cable quality.
2. For cigar to USB adapter, maximum support current and the quality may not very important.
3. We may or we may not need to shorten D+ and D- since I don't want to spend time to unshort them.
p.s. I still don't understand why cable 1 gives bigger charge on adapter 1 but refuse to charge on the rest, while cable 2 give consistent charge on all adapter. I re-test several times but gives the same result.
Short Pin 5 (+5V) and Pin 4 (unused). And tell me what happens.
JimmyMcGee said:
Short Pin 5 (+5V) and Pin 4 (unused). And tell me what happens.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The mini-usb plug is too tiny for me to work on it. I will pass it to whoever has the tool to test it.
Right, as I posted earlier, I have 3 cheap car chargers - 1 with integral cable and 2 that are just the adapter and require a separate cable. None charge my phone. A usb cable that works from my pc fails to charge in the car.
So, I bought a genuine HTC car charger. I fully expected this to work fine, but it doesn't. It does exactly the same as the cheapo chargers - My phone shows the amber charging light for a minute or two, then it goes out. No charging takes place at all. The battery icon shows charging all the time the cable is plugged in though.
My ciggarette socket is fine and supplies enough current to make the ciggarette lighter thingy glow hot.
/baffled.
chaps said:
Right, as I posted earlier, I have 3 cheap car chargers - 1 with integral cable and 2 that are just the adapter and require a separate cable. None charge my phone. A usb cable that works from my pc fails to charge in the car.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Do you have other USB cable to try?
Hey all, No i have not yet found a solution for this problem. I believe I have a genuine HTC charger or at least an AT&T one because i got it witha bundle with my phone from AT&T. I am looking at the USB plug and it seems to be bent down a bit on the right side as you are looking at it.
I think i might talk to my girlfriends cousin who works for AT&T and see if he can be awesome and replace it for me without me having to put the AT&T crap back on there for an actual warranty return.
still charges at home wall plug in and syncs with my computer just fine
This is how i get around this happens, though it sucks if you're using it as a navigation device. When it stops chagrining through the car adapter, I leave the cable plugged into teh phone and the cigarette/power adapter and do a soft reset. This seems to clear it up somehow and it starts charging.
As probably several other users, I have set my hd2 to NOT charge when connected to pc, as I often plug the cable to transfer pictures, cabs and the likes. This is useful when I actually plug it to the PC, and it regularly charges with stock/compatible cable if connected to mains charger.
Problems could arise when you connect the microusb cable to the standard carlighter plug with an adapter having a female USB connector in it. It gets recognized as a "pc" and thus the device won't charge unless you re-enable charging when connected to PC.
In case you experience this, as per link found in second post of this thread, you can short the two middle contacts of the USB connector (the data pins) so the phone recognizes the charger as a proper one instead of mistaking it for a PC.
http://www.pocketpc.ch/htc-hd2-sons...en-hoehere-ladestroeme-akku-laed-im-auto.html
desribes modification of car charger, sorry but it´s german. HD2 detects via USB data pins, if it´s connected to PC or charger. If USB data pins are connected like described in above, it will be charged by the car adapter as well. To achive this you´ve to modify your adapter as described.
Regards
Georg
Thank you! Google translate is helping me... and believe me or not, it seems that what I was guessing is actually true: you need to short the data pins of the usb cable... could you confirm please kleiner_onkel? I am not quite so sure of what I am reading with google, as that kind of english is quite far-fetched
n that case I could also avoid messing with the insides of the usb-lighter adapter, and just short the cables inside an external USB hub
EDIT: I just tested it, syhorted the middle data pins of the usb-a plug inside a cheapo usb1 hub, it works and charges the phone when "charge from pc" is disabled.
Will meddle to clean the job and then will update first post
Can you please, for the sake of the slow minded such as I, explain why you would not want to charge from PC/USB?
pa49 said:
Can you please, for the sake of the slow minded such as I, explain why you would not want to charge from PC/USB?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
+1 for why not.never understood why it would even be an option.I could understand if we still used nickel batteries, but not with li+
Shorting the data pins also tells a device that it can use up to 1.85A of current (versus the 500mA of USB2). Your car charger will have circuitry (of varying complexity, depending on the model) to drop the 12V from the car to something usable by your phone (5V). If the components in your charger can't handle the 1.85A current, you could land up with a pretty hefty repair bill. Be careful out there....
Edit: Need a worst case scenario to see how bad it could be? In the most basic case there'll just be a resistor in the car charger. That resistor is likely 1/4 watt, 1/2 watt tops. Put 1.85A through it and it can pop, potentially going closed (short) circuit leaving your phone with 12V to deal with. The extra current that comes with that means you fry part of your charging circuit at best, your battery (possibly explosively) somewhere in the middle and the entire phone at worst.
samsamuel said:
+1 for why not.never understood why it would even be an option.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I do see a use, if you're on a laptop running on batteries, you don't necessarily want to empty your laptop batteries faster by recharging the phone if you don't need to. But that's the only one.
Aterlatus said:
Shorting the data pins also tells a device that it can use up to 1.85A of current (versus the 500mA of USB2).
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
More like 0.85 actually, like what it draws from the original charger.
Aterlatus said:
In the most basic case there'll just be a resistor in the car charger.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Then that car charger would NOT work and would fry every device connected to it...
Car chargers have voltage regulators, which have overcurrent and overheat protection, linear ones for older ones, DC/DC switching ones for everything you find today.
I believe there's actually still an extra step from this mod to the phone knowing it is on the original charger. I have both a Chinese USB charger and a car charger, rated at 650mA and 800mA respectively. On both (with soldered pins), the HD2 will charge at 600mA, not 800-900 like with the original charger. But 600 is of course already better than 450.
kilrah said:
More like 0.85 actually, like what it draws from the original charger.
Then that car charger would NOT work and would fry every device connected to it...
Car chargers have voltage regulators, which have overcurrent and overheat protection, linear ones for older ones, DC/DC switching ones for everything you find today.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
From: ht tp://pinouts.ru/Slots/USB_pinout.shtml
Dedicated charger mode:
A simple USB charger should short the 2 data lines together. The device will then not attempt to transmit or receive data, but can draw up to 1.8A, if the supply can provide it.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It's in the spec, and a car battery won't have any problem supplying the current. A cheap (read: chinese off ebay) charger might well employ just a simple resistor. Sure, any decent charger will use a voltage regulator or a buck converter to maintain the correct voltage. That doesn't mean that ALL will, hence the warning to take care.
"If the supply can provide it" is the key. The USB device will see if the supply can't give that much and its voltage starts to drop.
And anyway the HD2 would never draw 1.8A or it would damage its battery.
I noticed much the same thing by accident as reported in this thread
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=638007
Beware that if your HD2 is set up to detect it, it will turn on Navipanel when plugging in this type of cable
pa49 said:
Can you please, for the sake of the slow minded such as I, explain why you would not want to charge from PC/USB?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
samsamuel said:
+1 for why not.never understood why it would even be an option.I could understand if we still used nickel batteries, but not with li+
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I may be the slow minded here. BUT
1) Everyone having had even third-person experience with laptops knows that using one with a battery inserted and "most of the time" attached to the external power unit, makes the battery die pretty soon, and all laptop batteries are Li-Ion based since quite a while; sure, part of that damage comes from the heat generated on the battery both from the charging and the laptop being turned on, but all the rest is caused by the "unnecessary" repeated charges (confront the "battery university" website for this)
2) I often plug/unplug the cable from the pc to move several small files, I just don't feel comfortable doing it if everytime the battery gets a "charging hit", for the aforementioned reasons
3) I want to be able to charge the device when I choose to and not just everytime I plug it somewhere
4) enabling the car charger as "proper charger" lets the device take up more current and charging faster
5) I've always behaved, with all my Li-Ion powered devices, in a way that I would charge the battery when it got to ~20-30% and not before, reducing the number of times I actually charged it; the definition of "recharge cycle" is not the easiest one here, and "battery university" has an interesting one; but since my behaviour until now has given its good results, I'll just keep doing that
Aterlatus said:
Shorting the data pins also tells a device that it can use up to 1.85A of current (versus the 500mA of USB2). Your car charger will have circuitry (of varying complexity, depending on the model) to drop the 12V from the car to something usable by your phone (5V). If the components in your charger can't handle the 1.85A current, you could land up with a pretty hefty repair bill. Be careful out there....
Edit: Need a worst case scenario to see how bad it could be? In the most basic case there'll just be a resistor in the car charger. That resistor is likely 1/4 watt, 1/2 watt tops. Put 1.85A through it and it can pop, potentially going closed (short) circuit leaving your phone with 12V to deal with. The extra current that comes with that means you fry part of your charging circuit at best, your battery (possibly explosively) somewhere in the middle and the entire phone at worst.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
As kilrah stated, 1.85A may be the max specification, yet the HD2 is NOT going to get that much from a recognized charger. The german thread pointed from the second post of the thread is also specific about it, the intook currents are higher, but not that higher... plus I've peeked inside the car lighter charger, and it's got no single resistor Also, the max 2A is useful when you plug several other things to it for charging purposes other than the HD2, and that's why I connect the HD2 to a USB1 hub connected to the carlighter charger
For a briefly useful reference, my iPaq 214 only took max 200mA from the miniusb plug no matter the charger capacity not the charger "nature", so devices do have a regulator, and it would be reasonable to think that a multihundred euros phone has one, and pretty efficient at it
So aside from hacking the USB cable, is there any other way to make the car usb charger act like a car charger? Or I should save my time and just buy an actual car charger, instead of a universal usb one....?
Thanks!
atagent said:
So aside from hacking the USB cable, is there any other way to make the car usb charger act like a car charger? Or I should save my time and just buy an actual car charger, instead of a universal usb one....?
Thanks!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
solder together the central pins on the charger output port, it's the exact same principle
Even thought hacking a cable is "safer", as you're playing with a ~2USB asset instead of a ~5USD one, and you have to connect a usb cable to the car charger anyway in order to charge the phone
Hello, I've just bought an emergency charger for my Kaiser. It takes the power from an AA battery and gives the USB voltage in the output. It works great with my Mio A 501, but doesn't work at all with the Kaiser. I did a quick search and found this in a discussion about car chargers:
Are you using the HTC charger or an OEM one?
The HTC charger works all the time the OEM ones don't - the reason being that if you use a normal Mini USB cable, the handsets will only take a charge if there is an indication of a data connection (either than gprs or the cable) - otherwise it won't take a charge.
You can apparently solder a couple of wires together on a normal mini USB cable - but I wouldn't know where to start on that!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Now I've already heard of that, for example, a Play Station Portable needs the data wires in the USB grounded in order to charge. Is it the same with Kaiser? (putting three wires together isn't a big deal) Or is there an easier way how to make it charge?
So, I gave it a try and soldered the data wires with the ground wire. But when I try to charge the Kaiser, a yellow led starts to glow (which it didn't with the original cable) and, after a minute or two, the led goes off and Kaiser stops charging. When I turn the Kaiser off and then plug the cable in, the yellow led doesn't go off. However, when I turn Kaiser back on to check the battery meter (after about half an hour), I find out that the battery didn't take any charge at all. So, could anyone tell me what the problem is?
thanks, Mike
PS.: Adding some photos of the wires...
Probably because of the voltage...
Hey!
Have you checked the output voltage of this charger? Standard charger outputs 5V. If yours outputs less - the battery won't charge; if outputs more - you may "burn" your PDA chipsets
5V - 5.5V is safe range.
I found this on thinkgeek.
http://www.thinkgeek.com/gadgets/cellphone/b43f/
It says for iPhone, but sure it would work just fine with other devices that have issues.
had a same problem but using it in the car...
when i got my tytn2 i immediately bought a car charger and the salesman told it's an original one, said output 5v 1A.. when using in the car it charged for a minute or two and went off... than i got from ebay a micro usb 1A charger (used for iPhone too) and tried in the car-> it work flawlessly