Database Users

Replacing Touch Digitizer fix NonResponsive Screen?

Hey everyone my HTC HD2 got the Non-Responsive screen problem a week ago, & did a lot of research and found out that it was most likely a hardware problem with a cable..... So a lot of people would tell the people with the problem that the "Touch Screen Digitizer" is dead (like the cable), or it needs to be cleaned... pretty well go out and buy a new one... BUT I have never found evidence that someone has done this and it has successfully "cured" their HTC HD2 Non-Responsive touch screen problem...
So I was looking for anyone on the forums that could confirm this is a solution or give me any tips on what I should do.... AND no I don't have enough money to get a new phone, nor do I live in the USA so I can't send it in to fix it...
This is what I was going to buy for it:
http://www.ebay.ca/itm/NEW-OEM-HTC-...781?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item519a3d2e45
Thanks for taking the time to read my Thread, its much appreciated!! I hope I can find a fix!!
PS: If anyone wanted to know what it looks like out of curiosity I posted 3 pictures with RED circle HIGHLIGHTING the problem when I try to touch something....

My digitizer has been a bit dodgy for the past few months. It's ironic that when I finally found out what the issue was and called HTC, my factory warranty had ended exactly 4 days prior to the call.
Fast forward 3 months and my phone has now been unresponsive for 3 hours despite my prying and tweaking various hard parts.
I disassembled the phone down to the main board just to see how hard the install is, but it's a bit intimidating once it's time to start pulling all the film and ribbons. A bit too tight and small parts for my liking.
Time to hit CL to see if I can find a cheap replacement.
Good luck with your repairs. I may be following in your footsteps if I can not find a good deal.

Yeah I will see how well it goes... if anyone has useful info, i will be more than grad to hear it
Thanks

Many people attempt to replace a digitizer, but I simply don't recommend it, we see enough of do-it-yourselvers who created problems in addition to the original ones.
What I do recommend, however, and I stated it on many threads already, is to get an LCD+DIGITIZER assembly. Simply because it is easier to fit. Not saying the overall fitting is easy, always depends on your overall skill, so ensure that you are familiar with the procedure BEFORE you begin. But you will save yourself a lot of trouble by getting the whole thing, as opposed to the digitizer only for the sake of a few bucks.
However, if anyone still feels intimidated by the whole thing, I am on the lookout for working main board. Advertised a few times in the marketplace with limited success. So if anyone smashed their baby and will be looking to replace, rather than repair - drop me a PM. I am in NZ. Will pay by Paypal.

Mm i've replaced my HD2 screen just last night. Trust me it's among the most complex phones around.
Unless you've done a few phones before i wouldn't advice you DIY. Otherwise you can look carefully at the Leo Ds. and Leo As. guides on youtube. those helped me!
Mm i killed my LCD in the process of removing the digitizer as it's stupidly glued on to each other and the LCD glass is thin as hell.
Get the set, it'll save you your time
Mm i got mine of ebay, from the seller goodgoodsecho. It works perfectly well for me!
All the best!

cheeselump said:
Mm i've replaced my HD2 screen just last night. Trust me it's among the most complex phones around.
Unless you've done a few phones before i wouldn't advice you DIY. Otherwise you can look carefully at the Leo Ds. and Leo As. guides on youtube. those helped me!
Mm i killed my LCD in the process of removing the digitizer as it's stupidly glued on to each other and the LCD glass is thin as hell.
Get the set, it'll save you your time
Mm i got mine of ebay, from the seller goodgoodsecho. It works perfectly well for me!
All the best!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
How much did the set cost?

cheeselump said:
Mm i've replaced my HD2 screen just last night. Trust me it's among the most complex phones around.
Unless you've done a few phones before i wouldn't advice you DIY. Otherwise you can look carefully at the Leo Ds. and Leo As. guides on youtube. those helped me!
Mm i killed my LCD in the process of removing the digitizer as it's stupidly glued on to each other and the LCD glass is thin as hell.
Get the set, it'll save you your time
Mm i got mine of ebay, from the seller goodgoodsecho. It works perfectly well for me!
All the best!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks I will check it out, hopefully it won't be to hard and I hope I can repair it!! oh and could you post a link of the youtube & manual you used to replace your screen?? Thanks
Oh would anyone suggest then just calling HTC and sending it to them to repair?? or does that cost to much??
Thanks everyone for the help

One word of advice I have, is just remove the LCD/digitizer module assembly and don't remove anything else.
I have no idea why these videos and manuals have you pulling circuit boards, flex cables, and disconnecting stuff just to remove the LCD module. All you really have to do after removing the rear housing is to cut through the double-sided tape holding the LCD module to the main frame, being careful to know where the flex is and not to go too deep there. I used a credit card for that, but anything similarly flat and thin should do.

GnatGoSplat said:
One word of advice I have, is just remove the LCD/digitizer module assembly and don't remove anything else.
I have no idea why these videos and manuals have you pulling circuit boards, flex cables, and disconnecting stuff just to remove the LCD module. All you really have to do after removing the rear housing is to cut through the double-sided tape holding the LCD module to the main frame, being careful to know where the flex is and not to go too deep there. I used a credit card for that, but anything similarly flat and thin should do.
Click to expand...
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Yah I was looking at the video's and they were taking off EVERYTHING... it looks really hard to do.. I don't know whether I want to do it anymore.....
oh and are you talking about the digitizer itself or the LCD+digitizer for your method?
Thanks

Heronization said:
Yah I was looking at the video's and they were taking off EVERYTHING... it looks really hard to do.. I don't know whether I want to do it anymore.....
oh and are you talking about the digitizer itself or the LCD+digitizer for your method?
Thanks
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yep, there is absolutely no reason to take off everything like some people seem to think is necessary.
The way I'm talking about requires removing LCD+digitizer. In fact, I think you'll always have to remove both because the connector for the digitizer is under the LCD. Anyway, the way I did it, I went from removing the the phone insides from the rear housing straight to separating the LCD+digitizer assembly from the frame. No removal of any boards or flex cables. The only cable to be disconnected is the LCD+digitizer assembly one. Getting it disconnected and reconnected does require unplugging the front button flex and removing the screws for the bottom logic board to loosen it, but that's all.

GnatGoSplat said:
Yep, there is absolutely no reason to take off everything like some people seem to think is necessary.
The way I'm talking about requires removing LCD+digitizer. In fact, I think you'll always have to remove both because the connector for the digitizer is under the LCD. Anyway, the way I did it, I went from removing the the phone insides from the rear housing straight to separating the LCD+digitizer assembly from the frame. No removal of any boards or flex cables. The only cable to be disconnected is the LCD+digitizer assembly one. Getting it disconnected and reconnected does require unplugging the front button flex and removing the screws for the bottom logic board to loosen it, but that's all.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Wow that sounds pretty simple! and for you it all works perfectly now?? no calibration needed or problems?? Maybe I will try it after all..... but what screw drivers to I need to dissemble it?? the screws look different from normal..

Heronization said:
Wow that sounds pretty simple! and for you it all works perfectly now?? no calibration needed or problems?? Maybe I will try it after all..... but what screw drivers to I need to dissemble it?? the screws look different from normal..
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Well, it's not that simple because simply getting the HD2 insides out of the rear housing is difficult if you've never done it before. I believe the screwdriver you need is a Torx T-5. Once you get the screws out, you will need a plastic opening tool to go between the digitizer and rear housing frame. They look like this:
http://www.ifixit.com/Tools/Plastic-Opening-Tools/IF145-000
I found it comes out much easier if I use the tool to make a gap along the top edge and then slide the entire end of a scrap credit card into that gap, then that makes the whole assembly easier to pry out along the sides with the tool. I know on one of the vids, the guy takes forever doing this part and I can understand why, but once I figured out sliding a credit card into the top gap as far as it would go, I was able to get it apart much easier.
I can't answer whether the phone will work properly, because I just ordered the new digitizer over the weekend and haven't put it back together. I did remove the LCD+digitizer assembly and then re-connected it and put it back, then powered on the phone just to make sure pulling the LCD didn't hurt it - it didn't, everything worked as well as it did before. I did manage to crack the digitizer more when I tried to get the insides out of the rear housing before I figured out the credit card trick, so fortunately I was not trying to save my digitizer as it was already cracked. If you are just wanting to try to clean or fiddle with the connection, then you're going to have to be a LOT more careful than I was because it was all too easy to crack the digitizer!
I'm guessing yours probably needs replacement though. I sent my HTC Surround in for a funny acting digitizer, and the digitizer was replaced.
Oh, and if I would have bought an LCD+digitizer pre-assembled unit, that would have been super easy to replace. However, I opted to save $50+ by buying just the digitizer. Not too sure how I'm going to prevent dust getting in it, and I've read thickness of the adhesive is critical. I may regret it later!

GnatGoSplat said:
Well, it's not that simple because simply getting the HD2 insides out of the rear housing is difficult if you've never done it before. I believe the screwdriver you need is a Torx T-5. Once you get the screws out, you will need a plastic opening tool to go between the digitizer and rear housing frame. They look like this:
http://www.ifixit.com/Tools/Plastic-Opening-Tools/IF145-000
I found it comes out much easier if I use the tool to make a gap along the top edge and then slide the entire end of a scrap credit card into that gap, then that makes the whole assembly easier to pry out along the sides with the tool. I know on one of the vids, the guy takes forever doing this part and I can understand why, but once I figured out sliding a credit card into the top gap as far as it would go, I was able to get it apart much easier.
I can't answer whether the phone will work properly, because I just ordered the new digitizer over the weekend and haven't put it back together. I did remove the LCD+digitizer assembly and then re-connected it and put it back, then powered on the phone just to make sure pulling the LCD didn't hurt it - it didn't, everything worked as well as it did before. I did manage to crack the digitizer more when I tried to get the insides out of the rear housing before I figured out the credit card trick, so fortunately I was not trying to save my digitizer as it was already cracked. If you are just wanting to try to clean or fiddle with the connection, then you're going to have to be a LOT more careful than I was because it was all too easy to crack the digitizer!
I'm guessing yours probably needs replacement though. I sent my HTC Surround in for a funny acting digitizer, and the digitizer was replaced.
Oh, and if I would have bought an LCD+digitizer pre-assembled unit, that would have been super easy to replace. However, I opted to save $50+ by buying just the digitizer. Not too sure how I'm going to prevent dust getting in it, and I've read thickness of the adhesive is critical. I may regret it later!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Ok thanks I think thats what I am going to do, first dissemble it then try to move the cable around because, just yesterday it started to work again and then today it isn't working. I will contact you if I have a problem or get stuck, if that is ok with you
Thanks a lot

Heronization said:
Ok thanks I think thats what I am going to do, first dissemble it then try to move the cable around because, just yesterday it started to work again and then today it isn't working. I will contact you if I have a problem or get stuck, if that is ok with you
Thanks a lot
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yeah, no prob. I can post a pic of the digitizer lifted from the frame which shows where the adhesive tapes are that you have to go through, if it would help.

GnatGoSplat said:
One word of advice I have, is just remove the LCD/digitizer module assembly and don't remove anything else.
I have no idea why these videos and manuals have you pulling circuit boards, flex cables, and disconnecting stuff just to remove the LCD module. All you really have to do after removing the rear housing is to cut through the double-sided tape holding the LCD module to the main frame, being careful to know where the flex is and not to go too deep there. I used a credit card for that, but anything similarly flat and thin should do.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hey lolz I need your help already, I just took off the back housing and now Im lost on what to do... It looks to me as if you do have to remove the cables from the motherboard to get to it?? and what is the double sided tape? and isn't everything connected to the lcd?? lolz this is my first time doing any phone disassemble.. Thanks
added a picture of what I was thinking of doing... or am I doing this all wrong... because you did say we don't need to remove any flex cable or wires and stuff
Thanks!!

Heronization said:
Hey lolz I need your help already, I just took off the back housing and now Im lost on what to do... It looks to me as if you do have to remove the cables from the motherboard to get to it?? and what is the double sided tape? and isn't everything connected to the lcd?? lolz this is my first time doing any phone disassemble.. Thanks
added a picture of what I was thinking of doing... or am I doing this all wrong... because you did say we don't need to remove any flex cable or wires and stuff
Thanks!!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Nope, I didn't disconnect anything except the circled connector on the far right of your picture. You will need to do that to remove the LCD flex cable from the logic board.
I've attached a pic of the LCD module loosened from the frame. What you do is use something thin and flat to separate the adhesive tape holding the LCD to the frame. You will need to lift some of that black fabric tape on the edge to see where the LCD module meets the frame. Near the top, you will probably have to slide your separating tool all the way through to separate the tape (I used a scrap credit card). Avoid the area where the LCD flex cable is, because you could damage it! It's on the lower right of the LCD if you are looking from the front. When the LCD is loose, lift up from left to right (when LCD is facing you), pretending that there is a hinge on the right side. This is because you don't want to put any force on the LCD flex.
Once you've got your phone looking like my picture, you can remove the "captain" (orange tape), unlatch the LCD flex from the top, remove the button flex from its connector, then loosen the bottom logic board from the frame just enough to pull the flex out of the connector.
I hope that makes sense! It probably helps to know that a very strong double-sided sticky tape is all that holds the LCD+digitizer assembly to the frame, and there is only one flex cable connecting LCD+digitizer assembly to the rest of the phone.

GnatGoSplat said:
Nope, I didn't disconnect anything except the circled connector on the far right of your picture. You will need to do that to remove the LCD flex cable from the logic board.
I've attached a pic of the LCD module loosened from the frame. What you do is use something thin and flat to separate the adhesive tape holding the LCD to the frame. You will need to lift some of that black fabric tape on the edge to see where the LCD module meets the frame. Near the top, you will probably have to slide your separating tool all the way through to separate the tape (I used a scrap credit card). Avoid the area where the LCD flex cable is, because you could damage it! It's on the lower right of the LCD if you are looking from the front. When the LCD is loose, lift up from left to right (when LCD is facing you), pretending that there is a hinge on the right side. This is because you don't want to put any force on the LCD flex.
Once you've got your phone looking like my picture, you can remove the "captain" (orange tape), unlatch the LCD flex from the top, remove the button flex from its connector, then loosen the bottom logic board from the frame just enough to pull the flex out of the connector.
I hope that makes sense! It probably helps to know that a very strong double-sided sticky tape is all that holds the LCD+digitizer assembly to the frame, and there is only one flex cable connecting LCD+digitizer assembly to the rest of the phone.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Awesome I will try it now, I do need to heat the screen some for the tape to get sticky so I can pry it off right?? and I am guessing once you have removed that tape you can't "just stick it back on together and it will work right?? right??

Heronization said:
Awesome I will try it now, I do need to heat the screen some for the tape to get sticky so I can pry it off right?? and I am guessing once you have removed that tape you can't "just stick it back on together and it will work right?? right??
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You could try heating; I didn't, but maybe it will come apart easier if you do. In the HTC factory service video, they mentioned putting the whole phone into the oven to loosen the tape. I didn't know if it would be a good idea to do that complete with all the circuit boards or not.
No, without heat, the tape is definitely ruined and I will need to replace it. I was planning to use some leftover tape I have from fixing iPhone digitizers so I didn't even attempt to salvage the existing tape. Not sure if it's even possible to salvage that tape considering you need to stick some kind of tool in there to separate it.

GnatGoSplat said:
You could try heating; I didn't, but maybe it will come apart easier if you do. In the HTC factory service video, they mentioned putting the whole phone into the oven to loosen the tape. I didn't know if it would be a good idea to do that complete with all the circuit boards or not.
No, without heat, the tape is definitely ruined and I will need to replace it. I was planning to use some leftover tape I have from fixing iPhone digitizers so I didn't even attempt to salvage the existing tape. Not sure if it's even possible to salvage that tape considering you need to stick some kind of tool in there to separate it.
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Alright thanks I have to go and don't know when I'll be back, but I will try it tonight and hopefully I don't break anything...
Thanks for the help!

Broke the front glass of my G2 :( -- FIXED! :)

Everything works fine (except for the camera focus, which I can live with since everything is in focus always as it is because it shoots at like f/8). What's weird is that it has survived so many other falls onto concrete, and this just happens now.
I really need to replace the glass as soon as possible. It looks pretty unprofessional cracked like this.. I am out of warranty (bought the phone in September 2010 from T-Mobile), and T-Mobile no longer has any G2s .
I've looked through a few people who have mentioned replacing their front glass, and would like to do so myself. Anyone have advice regarding how I could do this?

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=u-dR8CHEGjY

less than $20 for new digitizer, takes 30min -- leave yourself an hour if your new to this

Sweet thanks! Looking forward to getting this done. Will keep this thread updated.

Ordered it from the website. Hopefully will get it soon.

captainreynolds said:
Ordered it from the website. Hopefully will get it soon.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I highly advise AGAINST super glue for securing the digitizer.

silverton said:
I highly advise AGAINST super glue for securing the digitizer.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Okay - what would you recommend instead?

the glue that is on your phone now will sufice. when heat it up with hair dryer (be carefull if you use a heat gun) most of it will stay along the frame of your phone. just keep it warm and quickly put new digitizer back. have done it twice now with g2s and countless times with g1s and no dust has ever seeped in.
but with g1s i often replaced the casing as well. here i would use 3m double sided tape that worked very well. if you are also replacing the case or for some reason dont feel the glue is enough use this
Sent from my HTC Vision using xda premium

I recommend 2mm 3M adhesive tape. I have used it for the 3 g2s I own and it holds darn well. Its less then 5 bucks on amazon and you will have quite a bit of it. Dont use glue. I always take off that old black tape.
http://www.amazon.com/Adhesive-Sticker-Digitizer-Supersonic-Incredible/dp/B004WIQW3U

demkantor said:
the glue that is on your phone now will sufice. when heat it up with hair dryer (be carefull if you use a heat gun) most of it will stay along the frame of your phone. just keep it warm and quickly put new digitizer back. have done it twice now with g2s and countless times with g1s and no dust has ever seeped in.
but with g1s i often replaced the casing as well. here i would use 3m double sided tape that worked very well. if you are also replacing the case or for some reason dont feel the glue is enough use this
Sent from my HTC Vision using xda premium
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Okay - thanks for this!
Darkseid83 said:
I recommend 2mm 3M adhesive tape. I have used it for the 3 g2s I own and it holds darn well. Its less then 5 bucks on amazon and you will have quite a bit of it. Dont use glue. I always take off that old black tape.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The tape doesn't make the digitizer bulge away from the surface at all? I feel like it would. I'll give that link a buy though, just in case.

the tape he and i is refuring to is thinner than paper, i have not needed it for a g2 before but only have done 2 digitizers on these so i cant say its never necessary unless you are replacing the case as well, but its cheap to have around and may be needed
Sent from my HTC Vision using xda premium

The tape doesn't make the digitizer bulge away from the surface at all? I feel like it would. I'll give that link a buy though, just in case
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
No if you stack it right I had to stack three pieces of that tape to flush it. It does not move around if you tape in the right spots. Its very thin and almost invisible.

That is weird... I did the SAME thing last week lol! I busted it on the concrete too and everything. It scratched up the bezel pretty bad too. I had insurance so I ended up getting the MT4GS (aka HTC Doubleshot). I love how speedy it is but I REALLY miss the development here and the GREAT community here in the Desire Z/G2 sub forum As far as repairing/replacing the screen (the digitizer specifically), everyone here gave great advice. I used to repair phones for a number of years and we always used a sealant very similar to double sided tape that y'all were mentioning. It basically was foaming glue that acted similar to silicon or something. I agree that about not using super glue. Bad idea. Also be careful with the ribbon wires and watch a few videos prior to disassembly. There were a few tear down threads here I'd keep handy while repairing. Good luck to ya!

Make sure you are VERY careful when removing the lcd its very fragile. I reaced my digitizer easy and was careful and lcd got mrssed up ie no pic. Ordered a new lcd and it had not brightness control always dim waiting for new replacement now. Side note once new screen comes in I will be selling this phone if anyone is interested i have 3 of them only need 2
Sent from my SGH-T959V using XDA

Son of gun. The last three screws I need to remove do NOT fit with the philips head screwdriver that was recommended. Now I get to scramble around with my phone in pieces trying to find a smaller philips head screwdriver. Awesome.
They are philips head, not torque screws. I checked and triple checked.

Anyone have any idea what to do here? I can't find smaller screwdrivers anywhere. Home depot has got nada.

Go out and buy a precision screwdriver set or maybe a eye glasses repair kit. Only the first 3 screws are torx T5. Also there is 7 of them tiny ones not 3. There is 3 on either side and one more under keyboard backstop
Sent from my SGH-T959V using XDA

anoymonos said:
Go out and buy a precision screwdriver set or maybe a eye glasses repair kit. Only the first 3 screws are torx T5. Also there is 7 of them tiny ones not 3. There is 3 on either side and one more under keyboard backstop
Sent from my SGH-T959V using XDA
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
No it's the three screws across the back at this time (http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_detailpage&v=u-dR8CHEGjY#t=251s).
They are smaller than all the others and I still cannot get them out. I cannot find an eye glasses repair kit or precision screwdriver set small enough.

http://www.repairsuniverse.com sent me the screwdrivers for the Inspire 4G. Pretty sure the digitizer is for the G2 but I'll have to check the screen sizes to make sure.
Update. Fry's elecronics had a repair kit for smartphones that fit the screws. Still working on it.

captainreynolds said:
No it's the three screws across the back at this time (http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_detailpage&v=u-dR8CHEGjY#t=251s).
They are smaller than all the others and I still cannot get them out. I cannot find an eye glasses repair kit or precision screwdriver set small enough.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
if you keep watching the video you will see that when he removes the sticky keyboard backstop there are three more identical size screws mirrored from the ones you are talking about right on edge of phone, and then when you remove that piece after you remove the screws there wiil be one more (this makes number 7 ) screw of the same size tiny. Also i dont think it is metioned in the video but when you go to remove the keyboard backstop (the shiny piece under the sticky strip ) use your safe pry tool to unlock the tabs from the edge and then you must slide the piece towards the center of the phone it does not just pry off there are tiny tabs holding one side down opposite of the screws ( edge of phone ) And as far as the screwdriver for eye glasses repair, is it you cant find one or it just does not work? You should be able to find one at any walgreens or equivalent drug store or pharmacy. You could also try a hobby shop they might have something that will work. I personally use quite a big screwdriver to disassemble you just need to make sure it has a sharp point at the tip of the star ( mine is a phillips number 00 ) Believe me once you get it apart once you will be that was so easy.

Desire HD GPS Fix

After having no GPS for about a year and getting annoyed with it not working I accidentally found a post about soldering wire to the contacts.
Well, rather than soldering I wondered if I could make a little tin foil antenna. Works a treat!! Pics below:

Nice
Sent from my Desire HD using xda premium

Seems like a great idea,, much easier than soldering,,,, did you sandwich the foil between two pieces of paper ,, was it easy to clip it back together with this mod.
Very tempted to try it.

hi,im struggling with enanche GPS signal too. just two questions..is it just aluminium foil ( http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/1/12/Folie_2007.jpg ) or some other foil? and behind,is a piece of paper to cover motherboard contacts?
thanks in advance

20mark said:
hi,im struggling with enanche GPS signal too. just two questions..is it just aluminium foil ( http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/1/12/Folie_2007.jpg ) or some other foil? and behind,is a piece of paper to cover motherboard contacts?
thanks in advance
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Any conducting foil should be good enough if you ask me. But look at other threads - about resistance/lenght of the antenna etc. - this one is quite a guess, but should be better than not having antenna at all. By the way, if you have broken antenna (the cover), you could apply this patch to the cover leaving the spring contacts to do the resto fo the job.
And more... A new cover (antenna) on eBay is about 6 pounds? (10 euros?) - is it worth of making this by yourself when you can get a new cover?

19ninety said:
After having no GPS for about a year and getting annoyed with it not working I accidentally found a post about soldering wire to the contacts.
Well, rather than soldering I wondered if I could make a little tin foil antenna. Works a treat!! Pics below:
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Could you please post the URL to that web? I'd like to know how to open that cover
Thanks

rickowsky said:
Could you please post the URL to that web? I'd like to know how to open that cover
Thanks
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It's just round the corner:
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=1318892
Sent from my HTC Desire HD using xda app-developers app

nice~ thanks.. :laugh:

Template
Is it possible that you could upload a folding and cutting template? Also, (and I believe it was mentioned a bit back) it appears that you have a piece of paper behind the foil to prevent accidental contact with the board other than on the antenna points. Would something like this also work on the other antenna points?

Nice idea .. but i am afraid of shorting motherboard contacts... Perhaps any more detail from you in the long run would be appreciated...
Also my spring contact broke as soon as i tried to pull it up. so may be soldering a wire would fix my GPS!!!

Tried this. It helped a little but couldnt get a good connection and as soon as i moved the phone it would go
probably try to soldier a wire onto it

zphantom1 said:
Is it possible that you could upload a folding and cutting template? Also, (and I believe it was mentioned a bit back) it appears that you have a piece of paper behind the foil to prevent accidental contact with the board other than on the antenna points. Would something like this also work on the other antenna points?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Damn, sorry I missed all the replies!!!
So to make the template I used a craft knife and a board and trial and error cut the paper until it fitted correctly, once I have that done I used that as a template to make the foil.
I used the paper to prevent the foil from touching the motherboard. Its just regular kitchen foil.
To remove the cover I CAREFULLY used a razor blade to lift the side of the cover closest to the camera, its very tight the first time you try and open it, once it been off a couple of times its really easy to do.
To update this methods results, I found it worked for a while but then I started having GRP issues again. I was going to solder a wire in the instead but was due a upgrade so ... HOX ftw.
Soldering a wire in there would be pretty easy using a fine tip on a gas soldering iron, may be a bit more fiddly with a regular fixed bit electric iron but certainly doable. This would be a better fix, though have a look on fleaBay, it may be worth trying a new GPS cover ... I'm certain the issue lies with a really ****ty connection between the motherboard pins and the antenna points on the back of the cover and nothing else.
Sorry again for the slow replies guys, I posted and set for notifications and then forgot about it, was only by chance I found the notifs in my spam folder.

19ninety said:
After having no GPS for about a year and getting annoyed with it not working I accidentally found a post about soldering wire to the contacts.
Well, rather than soldering I wondered if I could make a little tin foil antenna. Works a treat!! Pics below:
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Really god work...

Thx... Going to try this.
Sent from DHD - Tapatalk

GPS FIX
If you flash the file attached to this reply it will fix your gps issues

If Im flashing it, some error occure and it is aborted.
Im doing something wrong.
Should I rename the file or something like it?
Thanks for reply.
Sent from DHD - Tapatalk

AndroidAdski said:
If you flash the file attached to this reply it will fix your gps issues
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
What does the zip do?
Sent from my GT-P1000 using xda app-developers app

this zip is probably from here:
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=1044992
oh and it didn't fix my gps issue....neither did flashing the newest radio or using solder....

19ninety said:
After having no GPS for about a year and getting annoyed with it not working I accidentally found a post about soldering wire to the contacts.
Well, rather than soldering I wondered if I could make a little tin foil antenna. Works a treat!! Pics below:
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
EDIT: Please dont jump into conclusions too soon as I did! At first I thought tha this fix was working 100% but I then noticed that although I (at last) had a signal it was too weak compared to a 'healthy' gps receiver and the phone lost it as soon as i got in a moving car or changed direction.
I used tinfoil from my kitchen, plain printer paper, a pair of scissors and a cheap modeling knife. I used the 'trial and error' method just like you said and cut out the paper for insulation first. I trimmed holes for the two flash leds and the strange circular part right next to them.. I then cut the tin foil a tad larger than the papers area and I folded its edges all around to keep it from falling apart.
Congratulations for thinking so cleverly. Thank you for uploading and sharing this fix.
zphantom1 said:
Is it possible that you could upload a folding and cutting template? Also, (and I believe it was mentioned a bit back) it appears that you have a piece of paper behind the foil to prevent accidental contact with the board other than on the antenna points. Would something like this also work on the other antenna points?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
With 19ninety's permission I could draft up a template for that and upload it later on.
With
mitmeister said:
Nice idea .. but i am afraid of shorting motherboard contacts... Perhaps any more detail from you in the long run would be appreciated...
Also my spring contact broke as soon as i tried to pull it up. so may be soldering a wire would fix my GPS!!!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
EDIT: My spring contact also broke apart but it seems to have little on this fix. If the tinfoil has enough width then it should lie correctly on what remains of the broken spring on the main board. The problem is that after a few days the tinfoil looses some of its width due to continuous stress that we apply on the phone (while holding it or having it in our pockets) and thus loosing contact

mmessass said:
This gps fix WORKS 100%. I just tried it and i got instant gps fix using gps test app. I used tinfoil from my kitchen, plain printer paper, a pair of scissors and a cheap modeling knife. I used the 'trial and error' method just like you said and cut out the paper for insulation first. I trimmed holes for the two flash leds and the strange circular part right next to them.. I then cut the tin foil a tad larger than the papers area and I folded its edges all around to keep it from falling apart.
Congratulations for thinking so cleverly. Thank you for uploading and sharing this fix.
With 19ninety's permission I could draft up a template for that and upload it later on.
With
My spring contact also broke apart but it seems to have no affect on this fix. If the tinfoil has enough width then it should lie correctly on what remains of the broken spring on the main board.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Sure you may make a template if it helps anyone else who has this issue

Replacing JUST the N4 back glass on the battery door?

Is it possible to JUST replace the back glass on the battery door? Has anyone attempted this? Ive looked and seen that the whole part (glass and door) is around 60 dollars which is kinda pricey and just the glass is around 20 which is alot better in my book so I was wondering if it is at all possible? Thanks for any info!

Nocturnal86 said:
Is it possible to JUST replace the back glass on the battery door? Has anyone attempted this? Ive looked and seen that the whole part (glass and door) is around 60 dollars which is kinda pricey and just the glass is around 20 which is alot better in my book so I was wondering if it is at all possible? Thanks for any info!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes its possible, you just have to be careful with the NFC and inductive charging coils

lopezk38 said:
Yes its possible, you just have to be careful with the NFC and inductive charging coils
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks thats good to know. Is there a guide or anything that shows how and where to be careful and whats the best way to remove the glass from the back?

Nocturnal86 said:
Thanks thats good to know. Is there a guide or anything that shows how and where to be careful and whats the best way to remove the glass from the back?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Not to be jerk but it's not rocket science. There is no best way to open it. There's only one way to do it. Just take off the back case and replace it with the new one and that's it. don't worry about the stuff inside the back cover. It's glued tight.
Here's a video.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AZDAIgwbXk4
Sent from my Nexus 4 using Tapatalk 2

scream4cheese said:
Not to be jerk but it's not rocket science. There is no best way to open it. There's only one way to do it. Just take off the back case and replace it with the new one and that's it. don't worry about the stuff inside the back cover. It's glued tight.
Here's a video.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AZDAIgwbXk4
Sent from my Nexus 4 using Tapatalk 2
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks but I emphasized JUST the glass cause thats what I want to do JUST the glass not the entire back cause its potentially cheaper to go that way not the entire back which I know is easier to do but it costs more. I havent seen anyone actually replace JUST the glass which is what I was asking about. Idk if its glued to just plastic and i can break it apart and pry it off then clean and re-glue or stick, or if the nfc and wcharging contacts are glued to the glass in some way or what, thats where I want to be careful

it is possible. the best bet is to go ahead and remove all the glass pieces and that will determine which part to order. be carefule because the nfc and wireless charger are glued directly to the glass so if you rip the nfc or wireless charger you need to buy the whole thing. there is a foil attached to the inside of the back that is extremely easy to rip. mine was shattered into a lot of tiny pieces so it took a long time to remove all of the glass. so now i can just buy the glass instead of the whole back cover. it is a pain but it can be done.

justin g. said:
it is possible. the best bet is to go ahead and remove all the glass pieces and that will determine which part to order. be carefule because the nfc and wireless charger are glued directly to the glass so if you rip the nfc or wireless charger you need to buy the whole thing. there is a foil attached to the inside of the back that is extremely easy to rip. mine was shattered into a lot of tiny pieces so it took a long time to remove all of the glass. so now i can just buy the glass instead of the whole back cover. it is a pain but it can be done.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
ok interesting i thought it may be like you described. My back isnt completly shattered just by the speaker grill and then its spread out in large cracks so its not a terrible shatter. Do you think it would be easier to remove the glass since it isnt completely shattered? And should I use heat to soften the glue and lessen the chance it rips off the nfc sticker? And would you happen to have pics or know of pics of what it looks like under the glass or with the glass removed? Thanks for your help and info!

I can pull the back off mine later and get a pic. But I'll have to wait until I get off work.

Nocturnal86 said:
ok interesting i thought it may be like you described. My back isnt completly shattered just by the speaker grill and then its spread out in large cracks so its not a terrible shatter. Do you think it would be easier to remove the glass since it isnt completely shattered? And should I use heat to soften the glue and lessen the chance it rips off the nfc sticker? And would you happen to have pics or know of pics of what it looks like under the glass or with the glass removed? Thanks for your help and info!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
heres some pics. i outlined the foil so you can see where its at. i have a wide peice of clear tape where the glass was at to hold the wireless charger in until i get a new glass. heat definitely helps to soften the glue.

justin g. said:
heres some pics. i outlined the foil so you can see where its at. i have a wide peice of clear tape where the glass was at to hold the wireless charger in until i get a new glass. heat definitely helps to soften the glue.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Oh wow thanks man! Looks like there's a few gaps for the glass and the nfc charging coil is loose without the glass. Interesting. I wonder how it will look on the inside after the new piece of glass is placed like messy or as clean as the original look. Do you know what should be used to stick the new glass? I'm still debating if I should do this lol
Sent from my Nexus 4 using xda app-developers app

Im not real sure what to use either but I'd say to use some epoxy of some sort. I don't know if it would eat away at the paint on the back side of the glass or not. So I'd test it on something besides your phone first. I don't think two side tape would stay very well.

Moto G 2015 Disassembly Teardown Video

Motorola Moto G 2015 3rd Gen Disassembly/Teardown Video
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cvTeI4pdkak

Amazing! Liked the usb port easy replace part! Thanks for sharing!
Sent from my GT-I9300 using Tapatalk

nelsonw said:
Amazing! Liked the usb port easy replace part! Thanks for sharing!
Sent from my GT-I9300 using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Also replacing the audio jack is fairly easy, since you do not have to desolder it.

What brand and model # is your heat gun? Video was very good thanks

nelsonw said:
Amazing! Liked the usb port easy replace part! Thanks for sharing!
Sent from my GT-I9300 using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Absolutely!!! That's a HUGE plus!!

Super sweet! I don't have sound on this computer, (at work), but did they mention about water resistance integrity after reassembly it?

It might be that it's still waterproof but I wouldn't count on it. Especially the display is sealed against water with some sort of taker and its hard to impossible to disassemble the moto g without damaging this tape.
But I have another question. The original Motorola screen has a foil glued on the display to seal the speaker holes against water. Does anybody know with what those foils could be replaced for a non OEM screen?

fritz314 said:
It might be that it's still waterproof but I wouldn't count on it. Especially the display is sealed against water with some sort of taker and its hard to impossible to disassemble the moto g without damaging this tape.
But I have another question. The original Motorola screen has a foil glued on the display to seal the speaker holes against water. Does anybody know with what those foils could be replaced for a non OEM screen?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I would guess that it's extremely thin since it tears so easily. You can buy that stuff but what I've seen is in amounts that would probably do every G3 made. That would make it half the cost of the phone. I've never searched for small amounts but it may be available.
Sent from my SM-T530NU using Tapatalk

fritz314 said:
It might be that it's still waterproof but I wouldn't count on it. Especially the display is sealed against water with some sort of taker and its hard to impossible to disassemble the moto g without damaging this tape.
But I have another question. The original Motorola screen has a foil glued on the display to seal the speaker holes against water. Does anybody know with what those foils could be replaced for a non OEM screen?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I had the same thought about a week ago while watching a tear down for another device. I wonder if there's some sort of 3rd party material we could use that would be stronger. I really don't like tearing down a device working perfectly, but if it improves the integrity of the device I'm all for it. I see that the same way as I do an xbox 360 motherboard fix. Sometimes the OEM doesn't make the best choices in material.

I've seen foil where the thickness is measured in microns, but it's so expensive. The best bet would be trying to get a sample.
Sent from my SM-T530NU using Tapatalk

Thanks for the replies!
It kind of would have to be thin enough to not alter the sound in any way.
Probably a stupid idea, but what about using this adhesive tape (aliexpress: 10mm*25M Strong Acrylic Adhesive PET Red Film Clear Double Sided Tape No Trace for Phone LCD Screen) (I can't post links yet... :/) instead?
Then cut out the adhesive at the whole for the speaker so there is only the thin foil which covers the adhesive left. What do you think about that?
Furthermore, do you think this adhesive tape (aliexpress: New Brand 1mm Double Side Adhesive 3M Sticker Tape Repair Fr Cellphone Touch Screen NEW) would be suitable to glue the screen back in place?
Thanks!

Does nobody have an opinion on that?
Otherwise I'll just try and then report if it worked. Even if the sounds get a little bit more dull the water resistance is worth it to me.