Database Users

Camera tips! #2

Hi once again, everyone.
I've noticed that when using the flash on our Desire HDs, there is an extreme increase in warm colours. In other words, the picture will come out very yellow. This tip is only meant for indoors and macro shots, where lighting is needed, as outside pictures are balanced beautifully. To resolve the green-yellowish hue, hit the menu button while you're in the camera app. Go to White Balance, and touch Flourescent. Now take a picture, the picture will come out with more realistic colours. Do bear in mind that if pictures are not to your liking, you can use Photoshop, or for faster results, the built-in effects for our phones. Oh, and turn your ISO down to 100 when taking macro shots, or outdoors on a sunny day. Pictures are much more impressive and high quality.
Edit: it would seem ISO 100 images are better quality but overexpose extremely close macro shots. ISO 800 is recommended for this procedure
Remember to consult hamdir's guide for other problems

nice, ill try your flash tip tonight, if it works ill add it to the guide, if you don't mind
its seems your enjoying your camera as much as i do
autofix in the gallery effects improves tinted and badly contrasted pictures quit nicely

hamdir said:
nice, ill try your flash tip tonight, if it works ill add it to the guide, if you don't mind
its seems your enjoying your camera as much as i do
autofix in the gallery effects improves tinted and badly contrasted pictures quit nicely
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Of course I won't mind, we're both equally interested. You're my xda brother I guess xD anyways if I find other solutions i'll let you know, that way your guide can be a solution-for-all for everyone who not only has a Desire HD, but also any modern camera

awesome! it works well thanks

I am glad it did

guide update
i've added this to the flash section
{
"lightbox_close": "Close",
"lightbox_next": "Next",
"lightbox_previous": "Previous",
"lightbox_error": "The requested content cannot be loaded. Please try again later.",
"lightbox_start_slideshow": "Start slideshow",
"lightbox_stop_slideshow": "Stop slideshow",
"lightbox_full_screen": "Full screen",
"lightbox_thumbnails": "Thumbnails",
"lightbox_download": "Download",
"lightbox_share": "Share",
"lightbox_zoom": "Zoom",
"lightbox_new_window": "New window",
"lightbox_toggle_sidebar": "Toggle sidebar"
}
thx again

You're welcome

Elemental_Fire said:
Hi once again, everyone.
Edit: it would seem ISO 100 images are better quality but overexpose extremely close macro shots. ISO 800 is recommended for this procedure
Remember to consult hamdir's guide for other problems
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
sorry but that is wrong.
turning the ISO up would surely cause it to be more likely to overexpose? unless its a bug in the firmware.
you got to remember the exposure triangle. aperture, shutter speed, and ISO. our aperture is fixed, the shutter speed automatic, but the iso user controllable. increase the ISO and the camera increases the shutter speed to maintain the correct exposure. lower iso, longer shutter speed.
ISO is used to increase the sensors sensitivity to light. higher ISO number means more sensitive but more noise, low number means less sensitive with less noise.
so in summary, ISO 100 should not cause the photo to overexpose unless the firmware is buggy. ISO 800 is more likely to cause overexposure.
ISO 800 should not be used for macro since it destroys fine detail very quickly, thereby giving a poor quality picture.
ISO should be left on auto unless lighting is poor (change to high ISO 800) or unless you believe the camera is using a shutter speed significantly faster than neccessary, and that picture quality is suffering due to ISO noise and/or noise reduction (change to low ISO 100/200)
good tip on the white balance though.

I agree, there seems to be a bug. The flash light is not compensated for. In real terms, what I am trying to say is...setting the ISO to 100 causes the camera to slow down by approximately 50% There operations are also slowed down. When the camera takes a macro picture at ISO 100, it does not compensate for the flash fast enough. As a result, the picture comes out overexposed. However, at ISO 800, there is no such decrease in operations. Thus, the flash can quickly be compensated for. You will understand if you try for yourself. Try very close macro shots. Set your lighting mode, and then set your ISO to first 100, and take a few pictures. Now try again with ISO 800. What happens?

Share Your Camera Images/Settings.

I've been playing around with the camera today and got a few interesting results. So I've created this thread so that we can post and share our pictures and settings used to achieve them. I feel this would be good for people who perhaps are not familiar with our cameras settings and would like to get better shots.
I think our SGS2s camera can achieve some fantastic results
Please post your favourite shot and the settings you used below

Here is mine to start off.
{
"lightbox_close": "Close",
"lightbox_next": "Next",
"lightbox_previous": "Previous",
"lightbox_error": "The requested content cannot be loaded. Please try again later.",
"lightbox_start_slideshow": "Start slideshow",
"lightbox_stop_slideshow": "Stop slideshow",
"lightbox_full_screen": "Full screen",
"lightbox_thumbnails": "Thumbnails",
"lightbox_download": "Download",
"lightbox_share": "Share",
"lightbox_zoom": "Zoom",
"lightbox_new_window": "New window",
"lightbox_toggle_sidebar": "Toggle sidebar"
}
Settings:
-White Balance; Sunlight.
-Metering; Matrix
-ISO auto or 100 (I think, forgot)

holy CRAP that's nice... i'll try to take some later =D
What resolution is that? the Max setting also?

My first macro shot with the SGSII, results were better than expected!
I believe everything was pretty much set to auto, except focus.
I should have some more lying around.

Nice shot
Whenever I point the phone to my dog, he thinks it's something like a gun so he runs away.
Can you tell me what's diffirent between metering : spot, matrix...?

Here in Spain it's ice-cream time
I always shoot in min ISO, so ISO 100. Both in macro mode.
Another macro shot (also ISO 100):

wow! amazing shots!!! very sharp and nice DOF

OMG wow.... Ok i will post some soon.

trungdaika said:
Can you tell me what's diffirent between metering : spot, matrix...?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
There is centre-weighted, Spot and matrix metering.
These options take readings from the image which adjusts exposure to the image being produced according to the light intensities.
Centre- weighed towards the centre and averaged throughout the rest of the scene
Spot- the camera will only measure a very small area of the centre spot, useful when there is a relatively small object within your scene which you need to be perfectly exposed.
Matrix - takes reading from split areas of the scene to calculate the best exposure and sets it according to an average.
...I think
It's all a bit complicated to be honest, well for me it is, I'm just a beginner.

computermilk said:
holy CRAP that's nice... i'll try to take some later =D
What resolution is that? the Max setting also?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Highest res and Image quality, 3264x2448 (8MP)

A few more of mine:
This more of a spur of the moment shot, I just wanted to test how it would look!
And finally one to test how good the flash would be in pitch black:

PyroCF said:
A few more of mine:
This more of a spur of the moment shot, I just wanted to test how it would look!
And finally one to test how good the flash would be in pitch black:
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
give that angry bird toy to me or i will kill u. the results of the flash seems excellent. thanks a lot buddy

dave2 said:
Matrix - takes reading from split areas of the scene to calculate the best exposure and sets it according to an average.
...I think
It's all a bit complicated to be honest, well for me it is, I'm just a beginner.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
matrix mode does not take "split areas" (it might just be a language issue however), it splits the images into a matrix (a table if you prefer) and finds out the best exposure for each point in the matrix.
this usually fixes up expose problems and while i didnt test the matrix implementation of the sgs2 im surprised it doesn't default to it, in theory, it should make all those overexposed pics ppl take on smartphones look "mostly" fine
centered will not, and you always notice it when the lighting is not correct, with the burned out / over exposed edges

Lots of nice cars.
Centre weighted, ISO 40. Really happy with the camera.

Im interested in this thing: lock exposure after focusing. e.g. SE X10 and other sony ericssons are capable to lock exposure after phone camera focus on object. Then you can move phone to other position and fullpress to take picture...this is very good when dificult light conditions...THX for answer

bilboa1 said:
matrix mode does not take "split areas" (it might just be a language issue however), it splits the images into a matrix (a table if you prefer) and finds out the best exposure for each point in the matrix.
this usually fixes up expose problems and while i didnt test the matrix implementation of the sgs2 im surprised it doesn't default to it, in theory, it should make all those overexposed pics ppl take on smartphones look "mostly" fine
centered will not, and you always notice it when the lighting is not correct, with the burned out / over exposed edges
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
thanks for clearing that up
Sent from my GT-I9100 using XDA App

rob_h said:
Lots of nice cars.
Centre weighted, ISO 40. Really happy with the camera.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
iso 40?? how can you choose 40? iso 100 is the lowest on mine

Just in case others haven't noticed, there is a Camera firmware update available. Don't ask me where I found it but it was in the "Samsung Apps" app somewhere! I have no idea what it improves either (if anything).

Mine
I've been to Amsterdam lately ..
Sent from my GT-I9100 using XDA Premium App

Extremely amazing .. no need to buy a cam

How to get a better low light picture

Just found out how to make good low light pictures with some changes in camera settings.
The settings are :
Manual mode
change the EV to +1.0
flash on
HDR off
Here are 2 pictures to show the differences:
Superior auto:
{
"lightbox_close": "Close",
"lightbox_next": "Next",
"lightbox_previous": "Previous",
"lightbox_error": "The requested content cannot be loaded. Please try again later.",
"lightbox_start_slideshow": "Start slideshow",
"lightbox_stop_slideshow": "Stop slideshow",
"lightbox_full_screen": "Full screen",
"lightbox_thumbnails": "Thumbnails",
"lightbox_download": "Download",
"lightbox_share": "Share",
"lightbox_zoom": "Zoom",
"lightbox_new_window": "New window",
"lightbox_toggle_sidebar": "Toggle sidebar"
}
Settings above:
-This settings are exceptional when you shoot near objects,like people,pictures in the room..
-Try it yourself and report.
-Thank me if you find this thread helpful.
C6603 ?

Night scene does a decent job taking low light pictures. Better than superior auto.
If you reduce the resolution for some reason helps make better low light pics.

DrKrFfXx said:
Night scene does a decent job taking low light pictures. Better than superior auto.
If you reduce the resolution for some reason helps make better low light pics.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Not better than my settings, try it yourself.
Night scene:
C6603 ?

I can't seem to find "Contrast" settings?
Do you mean Exposure Value (EV)?

Sorry for that,yes it's EV.
I will fix that in the post
C6603 ?

Look stop asking for a perfect photo in complete darknes. Yes Lumias illuminate a room in an bizzare way, but that is so artifitial. The point of LOW LIGHT is that when there IS SOME LIGHT the phone captures SOME MORE DETAIL. It's not meant to be a night vision feature. LOW LIGHT - even in the name it indicates that there has to be some light.
And with the recent updates it takes relly good lowlights in superior auto.

Sidd_9 said:
Look stop asking for a perfect photo in complete darknes. Yes Lumias illuminate a room in an bizzare way, but that is so artifitial. The point of LOW LIGHT is that when there IS SOME LIGHT the phone captures SOME MORE DETAIL. It's not meant to be a night vision feature. LOW LIGHT - even in the name it indicates that there has to be some light.
And with the recent updates it takes relly good lowlights in superior auto.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Nobody's asking for a perfect photo. He's just sharing what what he found that is taking good photos in low light.
Sent from my C6603

@Sidd_9 Okey,but the 'Low light' is bad at superior mode,and night scene is nothing better.
C6603 ?

it really depends on what you classify as a "better" low light photo.
OPs photo is one that is lit up brightly with the flash, and looks like you have the light in the room turned on.
But others may want a photo which shows the ambience of the scene in low light, and have a more evenly exposed photo albeit it being a bit darker overall.
End of the day, depends on what you are trying to capture in your photo.

If you can hold it still, use fireworks mode:

electric0ant said:
it really depends on what you classify as a "better" low light photo.
OPs photo is one that is lit up brightly with the flash, and looks like you have the light in the room turned on.
But others may want a photo which shows the ambience of the scene in low light, and have a more evenly exposed photo albeit it being a bit darker overall.
End of the day, depends on what you are trying to capture in your photo.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
If u want to make a photo for examp. to your friends. They will be dark and hard to see with superior mode.
I just hate that. It's more detailed and more light with this manual settings like with an S4 or HTC One.
C6603 ?

DoubleYouPee said:
If you can hold it still, use fireworks mode:
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You think I didn't tried it?
C6603 ?

svaka cas majstore
sent from moa G-Nex7

How bout shooting friends at night? Any sample +settings?
-sent from that phone below

you may limit the ISO, to 400 or 800 with EV+1
Noise will greatly reduced, but you must hold steady too...

boyq said:
How bout shooting friends at night? Any sample +settings?
-sent from that phone below
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
A gun with a laser sight

Thanks to the OP I tried this with my ZR and it works a treat.
Sent from my C5503 using xda app-developers app

Starlith said:
Thanks to the OP I tried this with my ZR and it works a treat.
Sent from my C5503 using xda app-developers app
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Np
Tried something else,the pictures are better at night with superior mode when you shoot landscapes.
So, this settings are only for near objects,like people,pictures in the room..
C6603 ?

beni8978 said:
Np
Tried something else,the pictures are better at night with superior mode when you shoot landscapes.
So, this settings are only for near objects,like people,pictures in the room..
C6603 ?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Night portrait and night works good too for me.
Sent from my C6603

For landscapes, yes
C6603 ?

1/24000 shutter speed Pro Mode?

Has anyone tried setting shutter speed in Pro Mode to 1/24000? Whenever i set to 1/24000 the screen become dark even my ISO was set to 800. When we need to use 1/24000 shutter speed?

This mode is to use under ultra bright luminosity !
The photo is taken very fast (0,00004 seconds of exposition time!!).
Because it's very fast, you need a lot of light (and by a lot I mean a big lot) or else it's complete dark. But if you have enough luminosity, not a single photo will be blurred by camera or objects movements.
For example : a car is driving at 200Km/h, you take a picture of the tires of the car : on the photo you will be able to read the small writtings on it, even if the car was moving super fast

1/24000 is STUPIDLY fast shutter speed... i honestly can't think of a single situation where 1/24000 would actually be useful, unless you were aiming to deliberately under expose everything else while taking a photo directly of the sun lol
to give you an idea, 1/8000 setting can actually capture a bullwhip cracking without any blur on the whip at all... and 1/24000 is a hell of a lot faster than that lol

here's one example (not the best one) of a photo taken in 1/24000 mode :
https://goo.gl/photos/9KhKrU623WpwkinU7
I couldn't have done this photo without high shutter speed, I was in a fast train... at 1/8000 it wouldn't be blurry aswell but I wouldn't have the strong contrast I have on this mode and the sun would "melt" in the sky....

very nice @Mr_PoPoP
underexposed shadows is definitely the only use i can think of for that speed, unless i could wire the phone through to studio lighting, then i might get some use out of it just to sate my curiosity lol

Thanks @methosivanhoe
That's what I like with S7 camera, a lot of ways to play with....
I've been shooting the sky at night with 10 seconds exposure, and it's very nice...

haven't tried that yet... might have to give it a go sometime
i'm at a burlesque shoot this weekend, so i'll take the phone along with me and see how it performs next to my 1DX lol, i know it won't stand up fully to it, but it'll be a fun comparison of the samsung 'raw' files vs a proper DSLR raw file for me to compare quality

Thank you all for the answer. Now i have better understanding on shutter speed.

shutter speed is basically how long you expose the shot for... 1/24000 is stupidly fast really
easier to explain it with a photo
{
"lightbox_close": "Close",
"lightbox_next": "Next",
"lightbox_previous": "Previous",
"lightbox_error": "The requested content cannot be loaded. Please try again later.",
"lightbox_start_slideshow": "Start slideshow",
"lightbox_stop_slideshow": "Stop slideshow",
"lightbox_full_screen": "Full screen",
"lightbox_thumbnails": "Thumbnails",
"lightbox_download": "Download",
"lightbox_share": "Share",
"lightbox_zoom": "Zoom",
"lightbox_new_window": "New window",
"lightbox_toggle_sidebar": "Toggle sidebar"
}
short shutter speeds, like 1/1000, 1/2000, 1/4000 and so on, freeze any movement... like falling water, running people, whips, and so on... the faster the shutter speed, the higher the fraction... so 1/24000 is the fastest i've ever seen, which is saying something as top line pro cameras like the Canon 1DX only go up to 1/8000th of a second shutter speed.
it's a tradeoff really, to use 1/24000 shutter speed, you need more light around to get the same exposure... so either taking photos with a hell of a lot of light, or boosting the ISO up so it exposes right

Mr_PoPoP said:
Thanks @methosivanhoe
That's what I like with S7 camera, a lot of ways to play with....
I've been shooting the sky at night with 10 seconds exposure, and it's very nice...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I wish I could get the shots im looking for of the night sky with a 10 second exposure. I am trying to find a camera app that will give me a 30 second exposure.
What ISO setting are you using along with the 10 second exposure? Also, do you have any pictures you could post?
Sent from my SM-G935T using Tapatalk

FerdinandT said:
Has anyone tried setting shutter speed in Pro Mode to 1/24000? Whenever i set to 1/24000 the screen become dark even my ISO was set to 800. When we need to use 1/24000 shutter speed?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Here's a picture I clicked at 2 in the afternoon with the sun shining bright at 40°C and the shutter speed set to 1/24000. Note that it was an extremely bright sunny day when this was clicked. I am no pro photographer in this was actually the first time I used the shutter speed feature and got a pleasing result
Sent from my SM-G935F using XDA-Developers mobile app

jrwingate6 said:
I wish I could get the shots im looking for of the night sky with a 10 second exposure. I am trying to find a camera app that will give me a 30 second exposure.
What ISO setting are you using along with the 10 second exposure? Also, do you have any pictures you could post?
Sent from my SM-G935T using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I think this might work I bought it a while ago but never used it haha https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.ui.LapseItPro

methosivanhoe said:
very nice @Mr_PoPoP
underexposed shadows is definitely the only use i can think of for that speed, unless i could wire the phone through to studio lighting, then i might get some use out of it just to sate my curiosity lol
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
have you ever tried taking a light stream photo with your s7?..

Blurru photos in (not so much) low lights

Hi guys!
Been loving my S8 so far, but I don't know if I am missing something or it's just the camera that works like this, but, photos taken outside come out bright and no problems.
But whenever I try to take photos of my 8 month ols son, 6 out of 10 times, I end up with a blurry shot. Am I missing some setting? Anyone else having the same problem?
I noticed a small milisecond kinda delay after taking the shot sometimes, doesn't matter if I have internal storage selected or SD card as save directory.
Here are some samples of the results I get.
Tried sports mode and while there's no delay when taking the shot, I get kinda the same results.
{
"lightbox_close": "Close",
"lightbox_next": "Next",
"lightbox_previous": "Previous",
"lightbox_error": "The requested content cannot be loaded. Please try again later.",
"lightbox_start_slideshow": "Start slideshow",
"lightbox_stop_slideshow": "Stop slideshow",
"lightbox_full_screen": "Full screen",
"lightbox_thumbnails": "Thumbnails",
"lightbox_download": "Download",
"lightbox_share": "Share",
"lightbox_zoom": "Zoom",
"lightbox_new_window": "New window",
"lightbox_toggle_sidebar": "Toggle sidebar"
}

He is clearly moving and in low light camera needs to have lens open longer to expose picture properly. To fix it you need to switch into PRO mode and then you have 3 options which do pretty much the same thing different ways:
1. add more or stronger lights into the room, 2. manually set ISO as high as you can tolerate noise (probably need to do few test shots) 3. set shutter speed at at least 1/100 sec or shorter depending on speed of movement, here you risk under exposure, high ISO noise. Also you can combine 1 and 2 or 3.

pete4k said:
He is clearly moving and in low light camera needs to have lens open longer to expose picture properly. To fix it you need to switch into PRO mode and then you have 3 options which do pretty much the same thing different ways:
1. add more or stronger lights into the room, 2. manually set ISO as high as you can tolerate noise (probably need to do few test shots) 3. set shutter speed at at least 1/100 sec or shorter depending on speed of movement, here you risk under exposure, high ISO noise. Also you can combine 1 and 2 or 3.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks for the advice. Used to get better results in the same conditions with the Nexus 6P that's why I found this strange.
Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk

Either your kid is growing up and moving faster or Nexus defaulted to higher ISO settings in similar conditions. At 1.7 the lens on S8 is most likely brighter than 6P, but the ISO setting is double edged sword: higher the ISO less blur in fast moving object, but more noise, which could ruin the picture. Another way to do it is to time it just when the movement is smallest and if your timing is off, then set the cam into burst mode, you'll have whole bunch of pictures to choose from. S8 has one of the best, most capable cameras on any phone.

pete4k said:
Either your kid is growing up and moving faster or Nexus defaulted to higher ISO settings in similar conditions. At 1.7 the lens on S8 is most likely brighter than 6P, but the ISO setting is double edged sword: higher the ISO less blur in fast moving object, but more noise, which could ruin the picture. Another way to do it is to time it just when the movement is smallest and if your timing is off, then set the cam into burst mode, you'll have whole bunch of pictures to choose from. S8 has one of the best, most capable cameras on any phone.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Haha maybe he is quite fast now
I thought maybe it was a setting I was missing or a defective camera. Thanks again!!
Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk