Database Users

Why i purchased p3110.

{
"lightbox_close": "Close",
"lightbox_next": "Next",
"lightbox_previous": "Previous",
"lightbox_error": "The requested content cannot be loaded. Please try again later.",
"lightbox_start_slideshow": "Start slideshow",
"lightbox_stop_slideshow": "Stop slideshow",
"lightbox_full_screen": "Full screen",
"lightbox_thumbnails": "Thumbnails",
"lightbox_download": "Download",
"lightbox_share": "Share",
"lightbox_zoom": "Zoom",
"lightbox_new_window": "New window",
"lightbox_toggle_sidebar": "Toggle sidebar"
}
took me:
5 minutes to root.
5 minutes to install CM10.
3 hours to mount it to the dashboard cause i had to cut a lot of holes in my car
But the project isn't over yet. I still need to fine tune the position of the tablet to it's sits against the frame.
Make a USB(OTG) y-cable so i can charge while mounting external storage.
Fine some more awesome applications for the car
But now to some question
Will it even be possible to charge while using USB host through a y-cable without hacking the kernel?

Sweeeeeet! Keep us posted, also would love to know how your best connectivity is. WiFi, 3 g, Bluetooth, etc.
Thank you!

I cant answer your question... but try it, it may already work. What car is that btw, was thinking on later putting my tab in my mustang, but tthe shaker audio system is wayy too good to screw up if i messed it up somehow, ill stick to that aux for now lol.
Sent either from my p113 (gtab 2 7.0) or i997 (Infuse)

P3110 does not have 3G. Just Wifi.
Sent from my GT-P3110 using xda premium

Sorry, I wasn't clear I meant 3g from teather (or 4g) Thank you anyway. keeping these numbers straight
P 3113

Hey Guys, thanks for the feedback.
Status is i got 3 things left to do now.
1: wait for my OTG cable to arrive and then install that, and hopefully i will be able to charge while using usb as host.
2: lift tablet 2 millimeters in the left side.
3: give my tablet black bezel, think solution will be electricity tape (i know it's kind of crazy to tape my brand new tablet). But after i placed the tablet where it's ought to be, the white bezel isn't as visible as on the picture above.
wowmail said:
Sweeeeeet! Keep us posted, also would love to know how your best connectivity is. WiFi, 3 g, Bluetooth, etc.
Thank you!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I live i Thailand where the 3g kind of suck, but i made speed and ping test on both tablet and mobile while using tethering, and there wasn't any notable difference between the tablet and the mobile. The GPS in Galaxy tab 2 is very good when comparing with other mobiles and tablets i tried, it connects to a lot of satellites right away. Bluetooth and microphone also works fine, so seems like i havent blocked for any connectivity
Ryanscool said:
I cant answer your question... but try it, it may already work. What car is that btw, was thinking on later putting my tab in my mustang, but tthe shaker audio system is wayy too good to screw up if i messed it up somehow, ill stick to that aux for now lol.
Sent either from my p113 (gtab 2 7.0) or i997 (Infuse)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It's a Mitsubishi Triton GLS 2011 (aka L200), nothing special but a damn good truck for it's engine class (won the award for best high-lifted pickup).
One of the reasons i went for Tab 2 instead of Nexus beside the hassle i would have to order it from abroad, and all the problems i read people have with the tablet, is the DAC in this tablet (Wolfson). I might look into a digital audio solution later on, but for now it's analog audio transferred to the stereo. I love good audio, but not quite audiophile, but being in a vehicle i don't find it that important for now
I'll let people know if i find a solution for the charging while using USB as host!

Just a little image update after i taped the bezel black
Next up, OTG, USB hub and sd-card reader!

OMG this is really awesome. I want also want it in my car .
Really great, fantastic idea! :good:

Any news on this project ?
some pictures ?
and did you manege to made Y cable to charge TAB and have storage at sime time ?
If, is it posibile to have external USB DAC and charging at the sime time ?
(I heard thet there will be option to conect external USB dac to TAB 2 (3100,3110...)

nu!me! said:
Any news on this project ?
some pictures ?
and did you manege to made Y cable to charge TAB and have storage at sime time ?
If, is it posibile to have external USB DAC and charging at the sime time ?
(I heard thet there will be option to conect external USB dac to TAB 2 (3100,3110...)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Sorry about my late reply, i changed the Galaxy tab 2 out with a Nexus 7 instead which didn't solve the problem though, even with Timur kernel that doesn't really charge enough using OTG/charge.
With Nexus 7 it is possible to have USB DAC, but i think it is a little overkill to be audiophile when it comes to car sound unless you have a disco on wheels.
Anyway, my solution ended up being wireless storage and i can highly recommend this: http://www.amazon.com/RAVPower®-Wireless-External-Streaming-RP-WD01/dp/B00AQUMZRA which will also work fine with the Galaxy tab 2.
To make it a better experience then make sure you have a kernel that support cifs, or at least the module and then use app like CifsManager from play store to mount the storage as local storage, that way you can access the files within any application you wish.
Will take some new photos of the setup again soon, since the old ones have been removed.

Galaxy Tab 2 Car Install & Audio Upgrade 2006 Tacoma

I'm attempting to follow loosely in Kuchar09's footsteps with my stereo upgrade. His thread can be found here.
This is going to be a two-stage install. I'm upgrading the stock sound system's components and then replacing the stock head-unit with a Galaxy Tab 2. I've already started the fabrication necessary but there is a lot more to come. If you'd like to look though my pictures the album can be found here, however I will be linking to the appropriate pictures during my work log.
Components:
Stage 1
Subs: Alpine SWS-10D4[$149.99] x2 (Fiberglass work has started on the rear doors to get these to fit.)
Amp: JBL GTO-5EZ[ $399.99]
Replacement Speakers: Polk Audio db6501[$174.99] & db5251[$189.99]
Stage 2
Front end: Galaxy Tab 2[$329.00]
USB DAC: FiiO E10 USB DAC[$75.99]
USB Mass Storage: HGST Touro Mobile 1TB[$79.99]
Dock: Samsung Universal [$31.81]
Steering Wheel Controls: Joycon EX[$38.01]
USB Hub: D-Link DUB-H7 [$25.60]
Equalizer: Clarion EQS746 [$63.35]
USB OTG: CE Compass[$6.90] (This might be switch out for a couple of these.[$9.99])
Proposed Setup:
Its not easy to draw schematics in forum posts (I might do one by hand and upload) so I'll have to paint a picture "verbally". I want to access music and movies from an external HDD (which is sync'd wirelessly with my NAS (dropbox/dropsync apps)) with my Tab 2. I want the audio from these files to play over my car stereo. There are several methods at my disposal to accomplish this task. The one I'd like to use is having the HDD and DAC connected to the tablet via a powered USB hub. Audio information will flow (hopefully) along this path: HDD > hub > Tab 2 > hub > DAC > EQ > Amp > Speakers/Subs. If I can't achieve USB audio I'll attempt to utilize the line out on my dock or, failing that, bluetooth.
Notes:
I hope to get the majority of the system working out of the car before I start the install. I'll need to purchase a power supply for the EQ and Amp. My tacoma has a built in inverter which I'll be taking advantage of for the AC components. I have a lot of work to do still on the sub woofer enclosures and plenty of fiberglass cure time to test my set up.

Day 01
I've been working with fiberglass all weekend and expect to be at it the rest of the week. The "bottom" of my sub enclosures are pretty ugly and they'll probably stay that way. I'll be using pipe insulation to help form an appealing curve around the edges. It was a cheap and I'm fairly confident I could dissolve it with gasoline if it got stuck inside the enclosure. I've been monitoring my volume and I'm on track to hit the cubic foot requirements of the subwoofers (0.54-0.89 cu. ft). I'm glad that I prefer sealed boxes because the ported enclosure requirement is nearly double and I couldn't find that much room inside the door if I wanted. I'm sure the Crutchfield guys could though judging by how neatly they packed my stereo components.
Stage 1 Components:
{
"lightbox_close": "Close",
"lightbox_next": "Next",
"lightbox_previous": "Previous",
"lightbox_error": "The requested content cannot be loaded. Please try again later.",
"lightbox_start_slideshow": "Start slideshow",
"lightbox_stop_slideshow": "Stop slideshow",
"lightbox_full_screen": "Full screen",
"lightbox_thumbnails": "Thumbnails",
"lightbox_download": "Download",
"lightbox_share": "Share",
"lightbox_zoom": "Zoom",
"lightbox_new_window": "New window",
"lightbox_toggle_sidebar": "Toggle sidebar"
}
Stage 2 Components:
(external HDD not pictured, too busy formatting for a closeup)
I'm fixing to leave for work but when I return I will be attempting to get the HDD, Tab 2, and DAC to play nice together. Wish me luck.
Back from work and working on configuring the tablet to work with a USB DAC. This has been a learning experience. I've tried flashing to a more USB friend kernel but to no avail. I'm seriously considering switching to a Nexus 7 at this point.

Day 02
Reserved

Day 03
Reserved

Day 04
Reserved

Day 05
Reserved

Day 06
Reserved

Day 07
Reserved

Day 08
Reserved

Day 09
Reserved

DUDE you WAY OVERPAID buying all the stuff from Crutchfield, Hell I have those same db6501 components and I got them off amazon for like 107, and I just checked a few prices and I could get those subs for like 85 a piece (with shipping) and the other polks (the 5xxx) ones are right about a 100 bucks.
Your "stage 1" from Crutchfield adds up to $1,064.95 if you bought off Amazon it would of been $644.69 thats $420.26 difference in price man, Hell even if you don't buy car audio from Amazon you could could have bought the amp from Crutchfield gone to OnlineCarStereo.com (a place I used to go before I found the better prices of Amazon) to get the speakers and even with overpaying for the amp you would still only be like $826 for your "stage 1" costs.
But more importantly, WHY are you putting your subs in your rear doors and not like under the rear seats or just saying screw the rear seats and doing a proper ported enclosure?

If the dac don't work go with the line in, keep it up!
Sent from my C6603 using Tapatalk 2

It seems very hard process though .. Keep up
Sent from my GT-P5100 using Tapatalk HD

He's completely integrating it which is a great idea.
Where as I'm making it easily dockable and removable so I can use my tab 2 10.1 still.
I just have to order the brodit holder now, possibly get a small good quality dac, and/or I'll get a good quality 3.5 Jack to 3.5 Jack line
Sent from my C6603 using Tapatalk 2

DarkKrypt said:
He's completely integrating it which is a great idea.
Where as I'm making it easily dockable and removable so I can use my tab 2 10.1 still.
I just have to order the brodit holder now, possibly get a small good quality dac, and/or I'll get a good quality 3.5 Jack to 3.5 Jack line
Sent from my C6603 using Tapatalk 2
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have yet to come up with how I want to mount mine, but i'll be like your planning. It will "dock" into the car and can be removed easily, for now my tab sits in the passenger seat and is connected by a 3.5mm male to male cable to the aux in on my head unit, a much easier install for sure.

Another thing you could do if you have the money is go to a custom audio/video Car Store and ask them if they know anyone who can do custom front shells.
And make sure to mention that you want it dockable.
A custom shell (where the head unit, controls for air con etc etc are)
Will cost between $200 to *%+ depending on the car you have
But they look amazing.
Sent from my C6603 using Tapatalk 2

In to see how you do this. Personally, like DarkKrypt, I'd want mine to be dockable. @DarkKrypt, do you have a thread with your install?

Actually no, ill be getting a basic holder and I'll start a thread.
Money and time are my dilemmas currently to not do a custom shell
Maybe in the future.
But I'll post pics and vids anyway of my simple secure setup.
Sent from my C6603 using Tapatalk 2

nealjr said:
I'm attempting to follow loosely in Kuchar09's footsteps with my stereo upgrade. His thread can be found here.
This is going to be a two-stage install. I'm upgrading the stock sound system's components and then replacing the stock head-unit with a Galaxy Tab 2. I've already started the fabrication necessary but there is a lot more to come. If you'd like to look though my pictures the album can be found here, however I will be linking to the appropriate pictures during my work log.
Components:
Stage 1
Subs: Alpine SWS-10D4[$149.99] x2 (Fiberglass work has started on the rear doors to get these to fit.)
Amp: JBL GTO-5EZ[ $399.99]
Replacement Speakers: Polk Audio db6501[$174.99] & db5251[$189.99]
Stage 2
Front end: Galaxy Tab 2[$329.00]
USB DAC: FiiO E10 USB DAC[$75.99]
USB Mass Storage: HGST Touro Mobile 1TB[$79.99]
Dock: Samsung Universal [$31.81]
Steering Wheel Controls: Joycon EX[$38.01]
USB Hub: D-Link DUB-H7 [$25.60]
Equalizer: Clarion EQS746 [$63.35]
USB OTG: CE Compass[$6.90] (This might be switch out for a couple of these.[$9.99])
Proposed Setup:
Its not easy to draw schematics in forum posts (I might do one by hand and upload) so I'll have to paint a picture "verbally". I want to access music and movies from an external HDD (which is sync'd wirelessly with my NAS (dropbox/dropsync apps)) with my Tab 2. I want the audio from these files to play over my car stereo. There are several methods at my disposal to accomplish this task. The one I'd like to use is having the HDD and DAC connected to the tablet via a powered USB hub. Audio information will flow (hopefully) along this path: HDD > hub > Tab 2 > hub > DAC > EQ > Amp > Speakers/Subs. If I can't achieve USB audio I'll attempt to utilize the line out on my dock or, failing that, bluetooth.
Notes:
I hope to get the majority of the system working out of the car before I start the install. I'll need to purchase a power supply for the EQ and Amp. My tacoma has a built in inverter which I'll be taking advantage of for the AC components. I have a lot of work to do still on the sub woofer enclosures and plenty of fiberglass cure time to test my set up.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'm want to do the same with my Galaxy Tab 2, but I can't find a OTG cable to charge the tablet simultaneous!
Can you help me?
Thanks

HD2 in car project - need your ideas guys..

So, as the title says, i´m thinking in giving a new life to one of my HD2's, I have 3 of them and they are almost stored in a shelf.
The idea is to get this phone as a carputer, we know HD2 is still running strong thanks to the wonderfull devs here, so I think it will be a great to have it having a new life.
The basic needs will be gps, music, fm radio, obd tool ( with torque ) and phone, and if you have more ideas i will appreciate the input.
The car is vw passat 1.8T, so i´m looking for a solution that doesn´t involve using a windshield mount as it is a little far from reach for my taste, also would like to protect it from heat in summer days, so probably i will go for a vent type mounting.
These are the things I need to decide:
What rom to use - needs to work well with navigation, bluetooth calls being able to recieve calls while with navigation on without closing it due to ram starvation;
What mount to use - this one the more important, use one mount or design and build a something to dock it when in car;
what connections to put - use the 3.5 mm jack for audio or use bluetooth ( in the last case I have to buy a bluetooth reciever cause my stereo doesn´t have bluetooth )
usb otg with powered hub - yes or no
To design something specificly for HD2 or something that in the future can be used for other phones/tablets
I will add some pictures later and more stuff coming as the project develops,
Thanks
Hugo

Hi yugoport, I think if you use obd, you will need usb otg with powered hub. Therefore you will need DFT wm6.5 from here unless you can use a ubuntu distro. The android usb otg kernel does not charge.
I am no expert on any of what you are trying to do, but will subscribe and follow with interest. Good luck.
Edit; found http://www.autologicco.com/p_obd.html

this would be really cool

Robbie P said:
Hi yugoport, I think if you use obd, you will need usb otg with powered hub. Therefore you will need DFT wm6.5 from here unless you can use a ubuntu distro. The android usb otg kernel does not charge.
I am no expert on any of what you are trying to do, but will subscribe and follow with interest. Good luck.
Edit; found http://www.autologicco.com/p_obd.html
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks Robbie, actually I didn't know that the android USB otg didn't charge, thank you to point it out.
For OBD I have vagcom for windows PC, so the use in android will be light so I was planning to use a cheap Bluetooth adapter with torque app.
Thank you mate
Sent from my PIXELDROID HD2 using xda premium

Recently I also thought about using my HD2 for car. I am not very experienced in ROM-software, but have some ideas of hardware, esp. car handling. After surfing an Internet I have found out that original car kit price is still space shuttle level. But regular universal holders look not eough safely for me. I guess it is reasonable to buy regular battery lid for HD2( pretty cheap in the Amazon f.e.), than fix it to any PDA-Navigator holder instead of universal clamps by hidden-head screws. If you are good skilful hand maker, you can install in this lid 3 additional contacts for battery charger. But you will need proper manual for cirquit and schematics or charger specs, because this contacts connected bypass of biult in battery controller.

I agree about possibly using those 3 contacts under the battery lid for charging, and therefore using the usb port for communications only, it would be worth researching. But i never did like the idea of the original (space shuttle) car dock replacing the back cover. It did not seem secure enough and the phone could possibly be knocked off. You could strengthen a cheap universal one by putting screws into the ball joint after getting it in the right position.

Now, I am thinking about another idea. If you already used H\2 as a car GPS you definitely got the situation with overheated battery (indicates by blinking red-green LED). This case a battery controller interrupts charging and generally it's not good for the device. Especially because this season is coming. I will try to use regular cheap portable case with charger (see pic.)
{
"lightbox_close": "Close",
"lightbox_next": "Next",
"lightbox_previous": "Previous",
"lightbox_error": "The requested content cannot be loaded. Please try again later.",
"lightbox_start_slideshow": "Start slideshow",
"lightbox_stop_slideshow": "Stop slideshow",
"lightbox_full_screen": "Full screen",
"lightbox_thumbnails": "Thumbnails",
"lightbox_download": "Download",
"lightbox_share": "Share",
"lightbox_zoom": "Zoom",
"lightbox_new_window": "New window",
"lightbox_toggle_sidebar": "Toggle sidebar"
}
. I am going to remove battery and parts form there and place thin small cooler (from a video card or laptop) to provide good cooling. Also this case is more capable for mounting in the regular holder and can be used for the charging of the phone. It is much better than connect USB cable directly to the device. I will report my progress here.

Nice ideas flowing guys..using the contacts to charging the battery seems a great idea, I can research on this, I have some experience in electronics, also I have here a hd2 for spares that I can use to test, I will do it this week.
Regarding the place I still haven't decided if I should use a car mount or no, I only use vent mounts because I can cool it in summer, also it's closer compared to the windshield mounts.
I can try to build a special cradle for it, but I will think in it later.
I'm using clingo vent mount and its decent ,but for this I think It would be better something like the brodit mount which is a tight solution, but not integrated as I wish, so I think I will have to build a built in cradle with charging + usb otg, the direct charging of battery might be a good solution.
For the phone calls, I searched for an app that would allow to forward the call from my S3 to the HD2 via Bluetooth when I'm in the car,but there isn't such a thing, I don't have Bluetooth in my car stereo,I could buy a Bluetooth reciever and connect it to the aux, but the idea was to be able to use only the HD2 that I will leave in the car sometimes to control everything, the solution for this so far is gmate, I use it in the S3 and it works well with the HD2 also, I could set a tasker profile to disconnect the gmate from S3 and connect it to HD2 using the Bluetooth near function, then HD2 would control the phone calls.. lets see how it goes..

Tearing HU apart for Boards

So mediatek 8127 trash.. Not rootable. Wouldn't keep the screen on unless I had otg hooked up. I tried everything. Anyways... I bought orange pi h3 and billion things for it; ATmega328P Nano V3 Controller Board for 3.2" OBD cluster project and tft 7". I bought a driver thinking that's all it was, but I just i'll have two 7" screens now. I bought;
----AUDIO---
900W DC-DC Boost Converter 8-60V to 10-120V 15A Step Up
TPA3116 D2 120W+120W Dual-channel
ATMEGA16U2 Board For Arduino Mega 2560 R3
LM1036 Tone Board Preamp Board Volume Treble Bass Amplifier Z2S8
(Havent bought yet) TDA7498 BTL 100W+100W High-power Digital Amplifier Board AMP With Radiator
--OBD2 cluster lcd k line gauges--
FTDI Basic Breakout 5V/3.3V Adjustable- Micro USB
3.5" tft (even thought I can't touch it.....)
k type thermocouple
--display--
It will be displaying mainly 1280x600? The tft that came with my dismantled board. I bought another driver and it has a 800
--Other stuff--
GPS- No just the anntena
It has wifi already
I have a BT board if it doesn't.. No clue.
Fm transmitter I have too.
Sooo I really don't know anything about rasp pi og pi arduino, but I do know 100$ double dins are trash. I am able to pull the fm transmitter and bt board off but that's it. I took 3 old laptops apart just to find one 40 pin monitor adapter..... but a "driver board"...... idk!
I guess I would really appreciate a smack in the head followed by a "none of that even works together"..
Ohh.. and I got 4 P1675 Punch 6.75" 3-Way Full-Range 440W speakers.. I think that's what i'm most excited about. All I was ever able to do with this double din I dismantled was sit in my room running it from a trickle charger trying everything to wipe it and get something worthwhile. So two questions.... Is there a pin diagram out there somewhere? Are they standard? All I know is it has an HP laptop kernel. 400mb mali something ur' other.. Mtk8127a. The board says "YLD-ANDROID-CORE-PCBV00". mediatek mt6323LGA 1644-AGTH. 70 pins only around the edges. NO markings for what.... Ohhh and the cover over the board says YLD-CORE-AD1616_MOO.
Second question With voltage boosters and amplifiers what else audio wise do I need concerning the board/module aspect.. Best method of transferring music that's playing from orange pi to, two TPA3116 D2 120W+120W Dual-channel's and the possible bridgable mono TDA7498 amp for my sub.... run wires... But from where? Point of origin... I feel like i'm missing a driver/board for audio or something. I've been looking into all of this for months, so sorry for not having a better idea, it's just like a candy store of 2$ 5000gig 8 channel yada yada out there. It's endless.....
Orange pi can flow with raspberry pi b+ for sure and most below i'd imagine and arduino touch screens and sensors couldn't care less. Does that sound right?
Thanks for any advice. Hopes this isn't in the wrong area. It is all being made into a headunit....
Ehhhh after looking into orange pi... The specs are there, but the support is like zero.... Glad it's so cheap to change my mind. I want nougat or oreo/rooted/cmXX/aosp anything flippin rooted. and not Kit Kat..... Seriously............ MHL one of my rooted phones into the mini hdmi or something like that..... Idk, but I just found out my options are pretty much if not only that of Kali linux. Super cool most of the time, but I don't forsee me sniffing packets from the prius at the red light...
{
"lightbox_close": "Close",
"lightbox_next": "Next",
"lightbox_previous": "Previous",
"lightbox_error": "The requested content cannot be loaded. Please try again later.",
"lightbox_start_slideshow": "Start slideshow",
"lightbox_stop_slideshow": "Stop slideshow",
"lightbox_full_screen": "Full screen",
"lightbox_thumbnails": "Thumbnails",
"lightbox_download": "Download",
"lightbox_share": "Share",
"lightbox_zoom": "Zoom",
"lightbox_new_window": "New window",
"lightbox_toggle_sidebar": "Toggle sidebar"
}

Is it possible to have both reverse cam AND a dash cam hooked up at same time?

I'm planning on buying a Joying Android unit. I currently have a front-facing dash cam that has an AV port out that supports RCA in. I also have a reverse cam with RCA jacks. The Joying head unit only has 1x RCA Video-IN port ...is there anyway I can make it work so that both the reverse cam and front-facing dash cam will work with the unit?
For reference, here is the back of the Joying unit...
{
"lightbox_close": "Close",
"lightbox_next": "Next",
"lightbox_previous": "Previous",
"lightbox_error": "The requested content cannot be loaded. Please try again later.",
"lightbox_start_slideshow": "Start slideshow",
"lightbox_stop_slideshow": "Stop slideshow",
"lightbox_full_screen": "Full screen",
"lightbox_thumbnails": "Thumbnails",
"lightbox_download": "Download",
"lightbox_share": "Share",
"lightbox_zoom": "Zoom",
"lightbox_new_window": "New window",
"lightbox_toggle_sidebar": "Toggle sidebar"
}
Best

Dash cam on an Android unit needs to be usb I think
Verstuurd vanaf mijn ZUK Z2121 met Tapatalk

Dashcam does need to be USB indeed. What you can try is to use an "RCA to USB" converter cable. They are not that expensive. Search on Amazon, Aliexpress, eBay, etc.
Note though that AV/RCA outputs are low-res up to max 720x480 or 720x576. Any modern USB Dash cam has minimally 1280X720 or 1920x1080.
Also: You need to have a dash cam that does the recording/storage itself. USB saturarion on USB-2 happens quite often, although these low resolutions of 720x480/576 might have a way lower bandwidth usage.
Next to that: USB-2 is "half-duplex". Only one signal can travel the line, be it back or forth (like a walky-talky: "blahblahblah, over"). These units have only one USB-hub. PCs often have 2 or 3 usb hubs. In that case, if you evenly distribute your devices, the half-duplex occurs per hub, or only one hub has the saturation. Any other device using USB will break your video signal and thereby a correct video recording if you want to do that on the unit instead of on the dashcam itself.
It's a bit of a pity that the old carjoying forum no longer exists. There was a user who had 4(!) cams connected and who had nicely explained how he did that. (but of course: who needs 4 cams?).
Next to that it contained a wealth of info about dash cams and other solutions, like using a raspberry-pi 3 or pi-zero with Pi cams in combination with an apk on the unit. I have used that also for quite some time and that certainly allows for multiple high-res, high-bandwidth dash cams (pi cams) connected.

surfer63 said:
Dashcam does need to be USB indeed. What you can try is to use an "RCA to USB" converter cable. They are not that expensive. Search on Amazon, Aliexpress, eBay, etc.
Note though that AV/RCA outputs are low-res up to max 720x480 or 720x576. Any modern USB Dash cam has minimally 1280X720 or 1920x1080.
Also: You need to have a dash cam that does the recording/storage itself. USB saturarion on USB-2 happens quite often, although these low resolutions of 720x480/576 might have a way lower bandwidth usage.
Next to that: USB-2 is "half-duplex". Only one signal can travel the line, be it back or forth (like a walky-talky: "blahblahblah, over"). These units have only one USB-hub. PCs often have 2 or 3 usb hubs. In that case, if you evenly distribute your devices, the half-duplex occurs per hub, or only one hub has the saturation. Any other device using USB will break your video signal and thereby a correct video recording if you want to do that on the unit instead of on the dashcam itself.
It's a bit of a pity that the old carjoying forum no longer exists. There was a user who had 4(!) cams connected and who had nicely explained how he did that. (but of course: who needs 4 cams?).
Next to that it contained a wealth of info about dash cams and other solutions, like using a raspberry-pi 3 or pi-zero with Pi cams in combination with an apk on the unit. I have used that also for quite some time and that certainly allows for multiple high-res, high-bandwidth dash cams (pi cams) connected.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
What are the chances you know what the carjoying forum site was called? It might have been archived. I would LOVE to know how that guy used PI's for dashcams with an APK.

kouklo said:
What are the chances you know what the carjoying forum site was called? It might have been archived. I would LOVE to know how that guy used PI's for dashcams with an APK.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have already searched via the wayback machine, but it is really limited. You can find a few "broken" topics but not one complete thread.
the site was forum.carjoying.com.
This a a broken topic about dashcams from the wayback archive: https://web.archive.org/web/20170719201932/http://forum.carjoying.com/thread-1085-lastpost.html

surfer63 said:
Dashcam does need to be USB indeed. What you can try is to use an "RCA to USB" converter cable. They are not that expensive. Search on Amazon, Aliexpress, eBay, etc.
Note though that AV/RCA outputs are low-res up to max 720x480 or 720x576. Any modern USB Dash cam has minimally 1280X720 or 1920x1080.
Also: You need to have a dash cam that does the recording/storage itself. USB saturarion on USB-2 happens quite often, although these low resolutions of 720x480/576 might have a way lower bandwidth usage.
Next to that: USB-2 is "half-duplex". Only one signal can travel the line, be it back or forth (like a walky-talky: "blahblahblah, over"). These units have only one USB-hub. PCs often have 2 or 3 usb hubs. In that case, if you evenly distribute your devices, the half-duplex occurs per hub, or only one hub has the saturation. Any other device using USB will break your video signal and thereby a correct video recording if you want to do that on the unit instead of on the dashcam itself.
It's a bit of a pity that the old carjoying forum no longer exists. There was a user who had 4(!) cams connected and who had nicely explained how he did that. (but of course: who needs 4 cams?).
Next to that it contained a wealth of info about dash cams and other solutions, like using a raspberry-pi 3 or pi-zero with Pi cams in combination with an apk on the unit. I have used that also for quite some time and that certainly allows for multiple high-res, high-bandwidth dash cams (pi cams) connected.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Excellent info, thanks so much!
Quick question regarding the USB-hub comment. If I use an external USB-hub to enable two USB-inputs (the dash cam via usb-RCA and the TPMS System) from a single USB plug, will they both work without interference or will I have problems too?

aerobahn said:
Excellent info, thanks so much!
Quick question regarding the USB-hub comment. If I use an external USB-hub to enable two USB-inputs (the dash cam via usb-RCA and the TPMS System) from a single USB plug, will they both work without interference or will I have problems too?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It will have the same half-duplex problem, even if you connect 10 hubs. All hubs need to go through the single hub in the unit.
We need to wait for USB-3. It is full-duplex and so much faster. But in that case the CPU might become the bottle-neck in encoding the video.

You weren't joking about broken. LOL
I have been doing some research and found a few projects that use the PI for a dashcam or even some kind of Black Box. The issue is viewing the feed on an Android device/HU.
I'll do more research and see what I can find.