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Hey guys, I got the quake3 running on my xperia, but its not really playable so Id like to try quake2. However I cant seem to get it running!
Downloaded it from http://quake.pocketmatrix.com/ . When I start up the app I get like a control interface with a couple of buttons "Attack", "A", "B" etc. But behind these there's only a gray background. Sometimes the game seems to start, as I can hear in-game sound. But the screen stays the same. Also tried the xscale optimized one but that didnt seem to work either.
Help plz
This is one of the first things ill be trying when I get mine, Ill keep you updated. Hopefully it will be sometime next week when phones4u stock it
That'd be nice. Hopefully you'll get it as soon as possible
Hmmmmm.
Just tried Quake. I start it with the X1 closed and it comes up but the display is part white i just get the weapon selection bit and the A B buttons etc, I try opening the X1 up and closing it but the display just switches orentation. when i pess the x to close it asks me if i really want to quite, when i press yes, the main display flashes up with 'Single Player' 'Options' etc!
Any ideas anyone?
Installed Quake2. I run the program it comes up with a box saying by Dan East or something, press ok then nothing happenes
weell I get a bit further than that but still doesnt work for me neither. Anyone with more luck?
I find it puzzling that in general Windows on PC "just works" but Windows Mobile breaks compatibility with even slight changes to the OS and/or hardware.
Why should a higher resolution screen break an app? Does Windows Mobile have no support for dealing with that? Surely you would expect it to detect an app trying to use a lower resolution and put it in some sort of wrapper to pad the extra space.
Its bizarre that even Java apps have compatibility issues from phone to phone. Why no standards so they work on ALL headsets? The whole mobile market is a shambles when it comes to compatibility but Java seems to have a better success rate (well, it usually displays SOMETHING) than Windows Mobile does, despite their being more variations of it around.
actually I dont think its the resolution...
Also, wvga has a different aspect ratio. So it makes sence that some apps dont fill the whole screen
Hello XDA,
I have a problem, and its bothering me every day.
After installing my first ROM, the Bionix V, a small part of my vibrant screen got broken. Is a 0,3 cm from bottom?
I can handle fine almost every app, but in some that use this part I can do nothing.
Now I using the 1.3.1 Bionix Rom ( very good ROM )
So I tried to buy new Touch Screen, but is too expensive now ( is close to 300 dolars in my country). So I will w8 a little bit to get cheap.
Until then, I need to use some cheat to use the program that use that small LCD part. It’s a Rotation tool.
The problem is, some app doesn’t turn Left or Right, and even I command the app in the rotation tool. I tried to use a lot of rotations tools, but some app (Games is the majority) don't turn.
So I just ask if there’s a way to cracked some part of the android to unlock the ability to turn every app to every side I want (the called 270º).
I wanna to play a lot of games that use that tinny part of the LCD but can't do nothing....
Can u help me guys?
PS: Sorry the bad English....
Cyanogen mod allows you to do that as default for every app.
The rom is worth flashing, especially in your case
crazy25000 said:
Cyanogen mod allows you to do that as default for every app.
The rom is worth flashing, especially in your case
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
How?
I unchecked every rotation except 270, but apps can still overide. Angry birds, for instance, still loads at 90.
beren28 said:
How?
I unchecked every rotation except 270, but apps can still overide. Angry birds, for instance, still loads at 90.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
If you have other display settings or an app that modifies system settings, they might interfere with it.....LauncherPro rotation settings used to conflict with my system settings...just an example, but not sure if that would be why =/...I'll mess around with my settings and see why it would do that.
I run launcher pro, but even when I switched to ADW, angry birds still insists on 90 degree.
This is worth looking at, coding might be different..
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=1084850
Whats the best System/input/overall settings for these two emulators, to get nice smooth, non laggy gameplay? i find on fpse my tekken 3 lags a little every once and a while, and on n64oid..Zelda OOT lags a little everytime i roll lol...any suggestions of proper settings? i must have something setup wrong since i see vids on youtube with no lag gameplay, especially on Zelda OOT.. thanks guys really appreciate the help. Kes
For Tekken 3, and most psx games, you can pretty much use HLE, set frameskip to any option, frame limiter on, and make sure you DISABLE rumble. Tekken and many games will lag badly with rumble on. Use the default settings (reinstall fpse or clear defaults), then enable hle or dont' configure a bios. Then define your controls, and turn on only l1/l2 and r1/r2 as on screen buttons. Don't modify the configuration settings for the overlay, and don't modify anything else. SAve these as your defaults and tekken 3 should scream. From there, you can slowly tweak whatever else you want and see what you're enabling that's breaking your framerate. FYI, I keep reading from users that bios mode is faster than HLE, but that has not been my experience. Bios mode has enabled some games that didn't work with HLE alone, but the framerates are similar to PSX4droid, which in comparison to FPSE in HLE mode have been crap with the games I've tried.
*update*
So after playing with the default config and trying my bios again, it appears those SAME settings I was referring to are the cause of abysmal bios emulation speeds. With bios enabled, most games run as well as or better than with the HLE settings. Furthermore, frameskip works properly, and makes tobal 2 completely playable at full speeds with sound and only periodic frame jumping. Tony Hawk 2 also renders correctly. Can't gripe at anyone but myself for not having enjoyed FPSE to its full extent all this time. If you have issues, I'd be happy to post my default config. I taylor specific games off of that, took a while to update most of my 30 isos to use bios mode, but it was completely worth it. Thanks for posting your question, and forcing me to reevaluate my settings
Sess said:
For Tekken 3, and most psx games, you can pretty much use HLE, set frameskip to any option, frame limiter on, and make sure you DISABLE rumble. Tekken and many games will lag badly with rumble on. Use the default settings (reinstall fpse or clear defaults), then enable hle or dont' configure a bios. Then define your controls, and turn on only l1/l2 and r1/r2 as on screen buttons. Don't modify the configuration settings for the overlay, and don't modify anything else. SAve these as your defaults and tekken 3 should scream. From there, you can slowly tweak whatever else you want and see what you're enabling that's breaking your framerate. FYI, I keep reading from users that bios mode is faster than HLE, but that has not been my experience. Bios mode has enabled some games that didn't work with HLE alone, but the framerates are similar to PSX4droid, which in comparison to FPSE in HLE mode have been crap with the games I've tried.
*update*
So after playing with the default config and trying my bios again, it appears those SAME settings I was referring to are the cause of abysmal bios emulation speeds. With bios enabled, most games run as well as or better than with the HLE settings. Furthermore, frameskip works properly, and makes tobal 2 completely playable at full speeds with sound and only periodic frame jumping. Tony Hawk 2 also renders correctly. Can't gripe at anyone but myself for not having enjoyed FPSE to its full extent all this time. If you have issues, I'd be happy to post my default config. I taylor specific games off of that, took a while to update most of my 30 isos to use bios mode, but it was completely worth it. Thanks for posting your question, and forcing me to reevaluate my settings
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks a lot for your help man, really appreciate the prompt and detailed reply ya i found that it runs a little smoother in bios mode too
You know the save default config in FPSE...is that for each individual game?
I find some games work better on one setting, whilst others work better on another setting.
I know you can save individual configs, but just a bit confused as to what the procedure is to do so.
Red_Kop said:
You know the save default config in FPSE...is that for each individual game?
I find some games work better on one setting, whilst others work better on another setting.
I know you can save individual configs, but just a bit confused as to what the procedure is to do so.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The config profiles are mightily confusing for someone new to them.
Took me a while to understand how they work too. It's not very well done tbh.
Easy once you understand though.
1) Without loading a game, change your settings then save them <--- this is now your default settings
2) When you load a game and change the settings, this now becomes your settings for that individual game.
3) Unless you save them as the default settings, which now become the default settings.
Not very user friendly, but they work nevertheless.
Cheers.
Been muddling my way through it.
Wish you could do that in N64oid!
Is there a way to get the sticks to work in FPse?
Trying to play Ape escape and it tells me I need a dual shock controller.
I go in and there doesn't seem to be a setting for them unless I am missing it.
Edit:
Where can I find N64droid?
ncaissie said:
Is there a way to get the sticks to work in FPse?
Trying to play Ape escape and it tells me I need a dual shock controller.
I go in and there doesn't seem to be a setting for them unless I am missing it.
Edit:
Where can I find N64droid?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The dev at FPSE said they are working on it so hopefully it will work soon.
N64oid is available at SlideME market.
Windows 8 Controller lets you control your Windows 8 PC as if it is a tablet. Just using your Android phone, you can experience the Windows 8 gestures like pinch, stretch, rotate, swipe, side gestures etc.
Easily scroll through web pages, pinch to zoom in your photos, cycle through open apps...
It's fast and fluid! Give it a try, you'll love it!
Please search for Windows 8 Controller in Google Play or Youtube
Some features of Windows 8 Controller includes:
- Multitouch gestures (pinch, stretch, swipe, rotate)
- Natural Scrolling Experience (Scroll horizontally and vertically as you scroll on a tablet)
- Use as a mouse (move, left/right/middle/double click, drag)
- Side gestures (Swipe from left/right/bottom/top to switch to next open app, show charms, show app options, close app respectively)
- Tiles Screen (A tiles screen including most needed shortcuts like show start, show desktop, open computer and much more)
- Power Options (Don't you think it's not so easy to shut down the Windows 8? Not anymore. Windows 8 Controller includes power shortcuts. Shut down, restart, hibernate, sleep, lock, log off your computer with one tap)
- Volume Control (Do you need an easy way to adjust the volume of your Windows 8 PC? You've got it! Windows 8 Controller has a volume controller by which you can adjust/mute/unmute your computer's volume from your phone. Also you can use the hardware volume buttons of your phone)
- Virtual Keyboard (Type text by using your Android's keyboard. Take advantage of auto-complete feature of your keyboard or use swype keyboard. You can even type text to your computer by using voice-to-text feature of your Android phone's keyboard)
- Easily go back/forward (Tilt your phone left/right to go back/forward in your favourite web browser or file explorer)
- Four (or five) fingers pinch (to reveal start screen easily)
- With auto-connect and quick-connect features, it is very easy to connect your phone to your computer and start using Windows 8 Controller.
kerimka said:
Windows 8 Controller lets you control your Windows 8 PC as if it is a tablet. Just using your Android phone, you can experience the Windows 8 gestures like pinch, stretch, rotate, swipe, side gestures etc.
Easily scroll through web pages, pinch to zoom in your photos, cycle through open apps...
It's fast and fluid! Give it a try, you'll love it!
Please search for Windows 8 Controller in Google Play or Youtube
Some features of Windows 8 Controller includes:
- Multitouch gestures (pinch, stretch, swipe, rotate)
- Natural Scrolling Experience (Scroll horizontally and vertically as you scroll on a tablet)
- Use as a mouse (move, left/right/middle/double click, drag)
- Side gestures (Swipe from left/right/bottom/top to switch to next open app, show charms, show app options, close app respectively)
- Tiles Screen (A tiles screen including most needed shortcuts like show start, show desktop, open computer and much more)
- Power Options (Don't you think it's not so easy to shut down the Windows 8? Not anymore. Windows 8 Controller includes power shortcuts. Shut down, restart, hibernate, sleep, lock, log off your computer with one tap)
- Volume Control (Do you need an easy way to adjust the volume of your Windows 8 PC? You've got it! Windows 8 Controller has a volume controller by which you can adjust/mute/unmute your computer's volume from your phone. Also you can use the hardware volume buttons of your phone)
- Virtual Keyboard (Type text by using your Android's keyboard. Take advantage of auto-complete feature of your keyboard or use swype keyboard. You can even type text to your computer by using voice-to-text feature of your Android phone's keyboard)
- Easily go back/forward (Tilt your phone left/right to go back/forward in your favourite web browser or file explorer)
- Four (or five) fingers pinch (to reveal start screen easily)
- With auto-connect and quick-connect features, it is very easy to connect your phone to your computer and start using Windows 8 Controller.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
side stepping the paid/free differences
The problem with wifi for this is that TCP sucks big time! there is so much redundancy built in for error checking that for anything like this, the slightest hiccup can just make it feel laggy and generally crap compared to using the real thing., ive tried to use similar programs for years and they all just annoy the buggery out of me after a while
Bluetooth offers a better solution but would have limited range and still isn't perfect, also bare in mind that everything under the sun uses 2.4GHz meaning a next door neighbours cordless phone can give you a headache too.
its just food for thought, perhaps you may live in a faraday cage and have no issues with interference, dropped packets and don't mind the slight lag that cant be removed, but not everyone is in such a fortunate position.
a Bluetooth option would be cool and of course a WP version for the grown ups
something's to keep in mind for the masses
Tempting ....
I just gave the Free "try it out app" a whirl.
I have an older laptop with non-multi touch touchpad so I was really excited about this app.
I have to echo the request for a bluetooth version of the app as well, there was definitely some odd lag going on ...
... But I can't be sure the lag wasn't being caused by the cascade of "This feature is only available in the paid version" messages I was getting.
Look, I think this app could be awesome, and I would happily pay for it, if I thought that it would work well enough to use daily. However, the experience on the Free app is really bad due to the restrictions. I understand not wanting to give away your work for free, but I think that the Free app paints a very unflattering picture of what the Full Version might be.
You may want to consider re-vamping the Free version, allowing for fewer restrictions or going to a 30 day trial, or just look at the code for how it displays the nag-message.
I'm not trying to be mean or rude, I think its a great idea, but when I say "cascade" of nag-messages I am being literal. There was a backlog of messages after closing the app so that for the next minute and a half I had "This feature ..." flashing on my home screen even after closing the app.
Good luck and I look forward to trying this again in a month or two!
I just gave the paid version a try and I'm not having any lag. It's very smooth. I haven't had a chance to dig too deeply into it, but so far it's very nice.
Anyway, whatever you do, don't drop the ball on this. Routinely I buy a paid app from a dev here and the development goes stagnant. There's a ton of potential for this app, please keep going!
Sent from my HTC One S using xda premium
Specter597 said:
I just gave the Free "try it out app" a whirl.
I have an older laptop with non-multi touch touchpad so I was really excited about this app.
I have to echo the request for a bluetooth version of the app as well, there was definitely some odd lag going on ...
... But I can't be sure the lag wasn't being caused by the cascade of "This feature is only available in the paid version" messages I was getting.
Look, I think this app could be awesome, and I would happily pay for it, if I thought that it would work well enough to use daily. However, the experience on the Free app is really bad due to the restrictions. I understand not wanting to give away your work for free, but I think that the Free app paints a very unflattering picture of what the Full Version might be.
You may want to consider re-vamping the Free version, allowing for fewer restrictions or going to a 30 day trial, or just look at the code for how it displays the nag-message.
I'm not trying to be mean or rude, I think its a great idea, but when I say "cascade" of nag-messages I am being literal. There was a backlog of messages after closing the app so that for the next minute and a half I had "This feature ..." flashing on my home screen even after closing the app.
Good luck and I look forward to trying this again in a month or two!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
+1
Sent from my LG-P500 using Tapatalk 2
Can't download server. Website is down.
So I've discovered that a simple terminal command fixes the black bars on the left and right when outputting through HDMI. It's caused by the tablet outputting a 1280x800 display to a 1280x720 signal. This is easily fixed by changing the device's resolution with the following command:
wm size 720x1280
To revert to the tablet's original resolution, use:
wm size reset
You may need to run the "su" command first for these commands to work, and you do need to be rooted in order for it to work. This will cause some things to get wonky, like the nav buttons disappearing in landscape orientation or the status bar being hard to pull down (perhaps solvable with a change to the DPI), but if you're planning to use this trick for gaming (which was my reason), using something like Smart Launcher 2 with a controller makes this a non-issue. If you want a quick and easy way to switch back and forth, try QuickTerminal on the Play Store and set up both terminal commands as "Quick Commands", or at least that's how I've done it. Now, the picture on your TV will fill the screen. This is as close to Console Mode as we'll probably ever see on this device, so I thought this might help a few people out!
rchrdcrg said:
So I've discovered that a simple terminal command fixes the black bars on the left and right when outputting through HDMI. It's caused by the tablet outputting a 1280x800 display to a 1280x720 signal. This is easily fixed by changing the device's resolution with the following command:
wm size 720x1280
To revert to the tablet's original resolution, use:
wm size reset
You may need to run the "su" command first for these commands to work, and you do need to be rooted in order for it to work. This will cause some things to get wonky, like the nav buttons disappearing in landscape orientation or the status bar being hard to pull down (perhaps solvable with a change to the DPI), but if you're planning to use this trick for gaming (which was my reason), using something like Smart Launcher 2 with a controller makes this a non-issue. If you want a quick and easy way to switch back and forth, try QuickTerminal on the Play Store and set up both terminal commands as "Quick Commands", or at least that's how I've done it. Now, the picture on your TV will fill the screen. This is as close to Console Mode as we'll probably ever see on this device, so I thought this might help a few people out!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I've been doing something similar with the NOM Resolution Changer app but I can't get the DPI settings right to match the 720x1280 res. It gets a bit tricky getting back into settings etc after changing the res as my app drawer is inaccessible after doing so. I always just resort back to default with the fail safe timer, I really don't want to get stuck in a resolution which i can't get back out of.
Andy4Shurr said:
I've been doing something similar with the NOM Resolution Changer app but I can't get the DPI settings right to match the 720x1280 res. It gets a bit tricky getting back into settings etc after changing the res as my app drawer is inaccessible after doing so. I always just resort back to default with the fail safe timer, I really don't want to get stuck in a resolution which i can't get back out of.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I haven't had that probably making the change manually, and I do believe I tried the app you mention and had the same issue, so you might wanna try testing the terminal command out; if it messes up, you can always reboot the tablet and everything will properly reformat for the lower resolution and then you should be able to change it back with "wm size reset".
rchrdcrg said:
I haven't had that probably making the change manually, and I do believe I tried the app you mention and had the same issue, so you might wanna try testing the terminal command out; if it messes up, you can always reboot the tablet and everything will properly reformat for the lower resolution and then you should be able to change it back with "wm size reset".
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks rchrdcrg, yeah I'll give it a whirl that way. It is really annoying having those black end sections on the output!!
I've got a chromecast and been trying to get the 'cast screen' option to work using r3pwn's method here http://forum.xda-developers.com/hardware-hacking/chromecast/experimental-enable-mirroring-device-t2812193/page167#post55119152
I thought that might be worth a shot to see if the output res remains at 1200 x 800 for the mirror but I can't get a picture to display, only sound, when it connects and tries to cast screen. I'm thinking it probably won't make a difference though as I have just bought a miracast ezcast m2 dongle too and that still displays at the 1200 x 800 resolution when miracast is used. It probably is just a rom limitation at the moment.
Andy4Shurr said:
Thanks rchrdcrg, yeah I'll give it a whirl that way. It is really annoying having those black end sections on the output!!
I've got a chromecast and been trying to get the 'cast screen' option to work using r3pwn's method here http://forum.xda-developers.com/hardware-hacking/chromecast/experimental-enable-mirroring-device-t2812193/page167#post55119152
I thought that might be worth a shot to see if the output res remains at 1200 x 800 for the mirror but I can't get a picture to display, only sound, when it connects and tries to cast screen. I'm thinking it probably won't make a difference though as I have just bought a miracast ezcast m2 dongle too and that still displays at the 1200 x 800 resolution when miracast is used. It probably is just a rom limitation at the moment.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yeah, I "borrowed" a Chromecast from Best Buy and could never get screen casting to work. You might want to see if changing the resolution fixes this issue with Miracast as well... I have a suspicion it will, and that might be useful to some folks. I sure wish I knew how to force the HDMI output to 1080p; it switches over when playing a 1080p video, so I know it's possible, but I don't know enough about development stuff to know how it's doing that, and forcing the resolution to 1080x1920 with the "wm size" command just displays a 1080p picture downscaled to 720p.
try vlc beta off the play store
here's a sort of rant and with a video playback only solution. Not sure how to hide the rant part. I don't forum anything much.
I bought a Belkin miracast adapter off amazon, and have had trouble getting videos playing properly in full screen. It would mirror the 1280x800 with videos played with regular video apps ( MX player, Archos player, stock) which would be 16:10, and would have those bars on either side on both my 1080p insignia tv and our pseudo 720p panasonic (actual res was 1024x768, but at 16:9, which should be illegal to market as a hdtv). I know from previous experience with my galaxy s4, which the samsung video app would mirror only the video at the correct tv resolution, leaving the phone as the remote. You could also use other apps while any video was playing through the samsung watchon (video) app. So randomly downloaded the vlc beta off the play store. It works for the tegra note 7 the same way samsung set up theirs, minus the multitasking(so far). It took me weeks on and off being frustrated with apps that wouldn't recognise that mirroring was enabled to take advantage of the external display. It's kinda whatever now seeing how much time I spent trying to get the video to play properly by itself, for my s4 I tried mhl cables, chromecast, dlna. this works a lot better
So if you just want videos to play, use the vlc player beta. you can use miracast or hdmi. works the same with both. Only if I could miracast surround sound. that would be nice.
I've just started using my tablet and a HDMI cable to run XBMC. This tip has saved me much frustration.
I already use Tasker which can send terminal commands as an action to make it easier. Tasker does have a HDMI plugged state which should allow this to be automated but for some reason tasker doesn't seem to detect it, not sure why yet.
So I've been fiddling a bit more to optimiser the HDMI experience. I've discovered an app called second screen that let's you sert display profiles and launch then the HDMI is plugged in. Thee app sets the size, resolution, dims the screen and force closes the UI to make sure the new settings actually come into effect. It will also revert the changes when the cable is removed. Does need to run on a rooted device but mine is already.