Hi all
I have brought a sunny cube v7 (cheap tablet) and upon receiving this morning I went ahead and left it to charge for a few hours. When I came back it was fully charged so unplugged it imediatly powered off. I cracked it open and the battery it self is reading about 4v but after the protection circuit its reading about 2, the tablet itself is saying its fully charged but it won't turn on without charger . tried looking everywhere but all I could read was about not charging or a defunct battery. Any help is appreciated
Just give it back if it's under warranty?
Sent from my ST26i using xda premium
Thats the problem it wa from china so by the time i pay for shipping back there i might as well buy another one, it was only £40
Well, you seem to know about the protection circuit.
They can vary in coverage from over-discharge, over-charge and over-current.
Some of them will actually latch up once activated.
If you battery is reading 4 V there is no reason for the protection to be activated.
You can try bypassing the protection circuit.
That's living a bit dangerously, both as to your health and the health of the battery.
Still, as a proof of principle you could do it carefully.
You can buy a similar battery protection module on eBay for a couple of bucks.
Renate NST said:
Well, you seem to know about the protection circuit.
They can vary in coverage from over-discharge, over-charge and over-current.
Some of them will actually latch up once activated.
If you battery is reading 4 V there is no reason for the protection to be activated.
You can try bypassing the protection circuit.
That's living a bit dangerously, both as to your health and the health of the battery.
Still, as a proof of principle you could do it carefully.
You can buy a similar battery protection module on eBay for a couple of bucks.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks for the info, I work as an electrical engineer repairing phones for insurance companies so i sort of know what im on about but never had this problem before and nobody at my work has faced it so thats a dead end. all I know about it is what ive read, I havent come across any information about this problem online. Do you know if i can just buy a similar protection circuit, or can I buy a bigger size battery (both in size and capacity) and will it still charge fully? thanks for the help!
Edit:
will my tablet tell me how charged the battery is if I remove the protection circuit?
2nd Edit, what controls the voltage to the battery, the circuit on the mother board or the protection circuit, as i understand it the protectionis only there in case the mobo gets a short, in other words the mobo says "im not taking any more voltage from you battery" then proceeds to shut down, is this the case? also with charging is it the mobo that starts the trickle charge +90% batt or isit the protection circuit, any help is greatly appreciated just want to get this sorted
The protection circuit is completely invisible and inactive except in cases of failure.
Charging circuits on the main board control conditioning, charging, terminating.
Determining percentage battery charge is a bit of voodoo based on voltage, temperature and estimated current load.
I don't know if any device (some? all?) are using Hall effect current sensors to measure instead of estimating.
I would think that a slightly bigger battery would not be a problem.
A smaller battery would not like getting charged too fast.
Replacing both the battery and the protective circuit shouldn't really be a problem. Are you measuring the voltage on the battery before/after the protective circuit - under load though? A battery without a load will always show a higher voltage than when "put to work". The protecive circuit itself does put a microscopic load on the battery, but I'm not sure if its enough for a decent load voltage read. if you have an old computer fan (probably won't go around if sub-5 volts, but should tolerate load long enough for a read) or something else that will "just work" off a 3.7v supply, I'd suggest you try that before shopping for parts.
Keep in mind, if buying a new protective circuit - it should be rated to comply with your tablet. Overcharge and overdischarge voltages are fairly similar across the board - but you'll want to look at Overcharge and overdischarge currents. Make sure these do not crash with the normal operational currents of the tablet. If the tablet for example, consume up to 2 amps under heavy load - you cannot use a protective circuit with an overdischarge current rating of less than 2 amps. If you did, it would trigger the protective circuit under normal (heavy) use. Same for overcharge current - make sure it is rated with a reasonable margin above what the stock charger delivers - otherwise the stock charger will pop the circuit.
I'd also advice getting one that is designed for the number of cells the current (or new) battery "pack" will be composed of. It will make putting it together much more simple and tidy.
Related
Does it harm to have the device connected the whole day either to the power outlet or to pc with the USB cable?
No, it doesnt matter very much how much you charge an Li-Ion battery, though it is best to use it a bit. (just my thoughts though). Being on power all day long cant really harm the device itself.
First of all, why do you want to do that?
Anyway, as whizz said, not much harm will be done to your phone, but just make sure your screen is off. Although not a common problem, there are reports that you can get burn-in (is this the right word?) for LCD screen (eg you can shadow-y image on your screen for displaying something too long).
cos when I am at the office I can keep my pda connected to my laptop the whole workin day
If you just wnat to have your phone connected to your laptop, for whatever reason, you can disable the USB charging for your phone.
i think not harm
the battery is lithium ion and leaving it on will cause no damage whatsoever. Its charging circuit will stop charge when its full anyway.
Too many people still live in the stoneage regarding batterys and think its like the old Ni-cad batts which didnt have a charging circuit and could over charge.
Leave it in all day, all night and for an entire year. It will do nothing to damage it.
weel I was just worried for overcharging, but if the circuit stops the charging when battery if full, it's ok then
dannyoneill said:
the battery is lithium ion and leaving it on will cause no damage whatsoever. Its charging circuit will stop charge when its full anyway.
Too many people still live in the stoneage regarding batterys and think its like the old Ni-cad batts which didnt have a charging circuit and could over charge.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
If they are from stone age, you must be from Mars. Old Ni-Cad battery DO have circuits that prevent over charge. As a matter of fact, if you were to be using normal (slow) charger, you do not need any circuit to stop the charge. You can't charge a battery with the same voltage if the battery itself already had the same voltage. Go dig up your old physics book and read on the chaper on electricity.
Anyway, the common `battery knowhow` on NiCad batteries is that they need regular discharge to keep it on top shape. This is due to the fact that NiCad battery has the 'memory effect' (or oltage depression) that will cause it to work on their normal working voltages that they got used to (eg when it is plugged into a charger). Do a google on this if you are interested on lengthy explaination.
For the current Li-ion battery, the memory effect has been relatively 'concurred'. However, this does not mean you can have it on charger 24/7. Li-ion has its own aging process which is dependant on their normal working temperature (the cooler the better). Hence, having the battery pluged-in 24/7 is not a good thing (eg notice the relative raise in temperature of the battery while being pluged-in?). Do a google on this aging process.
Each time when replacing battery date and time settings on my wizard return to default settings.
It seems CMOS battery on motherboard is dead.
Is there any way to change it and where to buy it?
Watchman said:
It seems CMOS battery on motherboard is dead.
Is there any way to change it and where to buy it?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I don't believe that You're battery is dead. It's also heppend to me when my phone was new. Every time when I remove battery, I must set my clock and date again and again.
RTC Battery
nikolica said:
I don't believe that You're battery is dead. It's also heppend to me when my phone was new.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
My Wizard is about two years old and I have had not noticed it happening before .
I plan to open housing soon to look for such battery.
RE
If You need help for opening You're wizard look this article
http://www.pdagold.com/articles/detail.asp?a=274
you can't, really.
there's a "gold cap" small capacitor surface-mounted to the motherboard of your wizard top left. this retains enough charge to keep the RTC time right, and they wear out. replacing one is risky, as the heat from a conventional soldering gun may damage components - it's something i'd advise just living with.
RTC battery
landwomble said:
there's a "gold cap" small capacitor surface-mounted to the motherboard of your wizard top left. replacing one is risky, as the heat from a conventional soldering gun may damage components - it's something i'd advise just living with.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I can not live with it, used to swap batteries very often.
Can anybody suggest proper soldering tool and web shop where to buy such tool and capacitor.
I plan to open housing anyway because I want to replace housing for new.
RTC battery
landwomble said:
there's a "gold cap" small capacitor surface-mounted to the motherboard of your wizard top left. replacing one is risky, as the heat from a conventional soldering gun may damage components - it's something i'd advise just living with.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I can not live with it, used to swap batteries very often.
Can anybody suggest proper soldering tool and web shop where to buy such tool and capacitor.
I plan to open housing anyway because I want to replace housing for new.
Backup Battery in Wizard plus other devices
... my first post ... yes I'm a noob.
Answering to something that may be a little dated, but hopefully it will come in handy for someone.
Regarding the small backup battery in Wizard (plus likely other devices). This is indeed a small battery, and not a (gold cap) capacitor as suggested in literature/previous posts.
My device too suffered this loss in time with replacement of main battery.
I sourced the battery on line (only place I found it was at DigiKey). They were $2.75/ea. plus handling fee ($6.50) plus delivery ($8.00) and of course let's not forget those taxes.
http://dkc3.digikey.com/PDF/C081/P2214.pdf (- see Figure 1 on pdf)
It is a magnesium lithium ion rechargeable (Panasonic ML414RM/F9A - DigiKey P003CT-ND). I ordered 4 on-line (I have more than one Wizard, both suffering from the same plague - one is the one I do all the fun hacking on, and keep/use one as my main workhorse. What's fun is one is G3 and the other G4 so any ROM cooking I have tried Main OS and Extended, I can validate on both types ... sorry ... back to the battery)...
I replaced the one battery to test and it worked. It now works fine and retains the time/date settings.
Now the nore technical stuff. How was it determined that it was indeed a battery and not a capacitor. Well first of all looking at it (I work a lot with electronics). Secondly, after removing I measured a small voltage on the battery. I shorted the two leads, and measured again. The voltage began to rise again. If it were a capcitor, shorting the ends would eliminate any charge and that would be it. Being as it is a battery, it revives and returns to the pre-shorted voltage again (a capacitor would not do this).
Check your device and check the battery (if possible) before trying yourself. As I mentioned I do a lot with electronics and so I feel comfortable doing this.
For those who may want to attempt themself, a fine tipped electronics soldering iron can be used (from a Radio Shack or Source or any electronics hobby shop). Get low melting temperature solder (avoid the silver solders as these have higher melting points - don't want to cook the battery). Tin the battery leads before soldering to the board. Clean and re-tin the board itself. Avoid heating/over heating the battery too long as this will "cook" the electrolyte and dramatically shorten the battery life if not destry it. Very little on the board around this battery so less likely to do any damage to the board. If you do try .... GOOD LUCK
no one uses a capacitor for saving data(even time and date) except for desktop RAM but that's just cause it gets powered up all the time by the PS.
of course a capacitor is used for short-time memory.. but it's not more than 2-3 minutes. the only way you'd be able to keep it for a long term is to have a XuF capacitor with a small battery..
these batteries are known to die frequently due to voltage shocks and extra current. the phone itself has a safety mechanism in which if you connect it to different voltage sources, as long as they're in a thin range of voltages, will manage to charge.. but some of the inner mechanisms (such as that capacitor).. are burnt during charging.
Nandaly said:
... my first post ... yes I'm a noob.
Answering to something that may be a little dated, but hopefully it will come in handy for someone.
Regarding the small backup battery in Wizard (plus likely other devices). This is indeed a small battery, and not a (gold cap) capacitor as suggested in literature/previous posts.
My device too suffered this loss in time with replacement of main battery.
I sourced the battery on line (only place I found it was at DigiKey). They were $2.75/ea. plus handling fee ($6.50) plus delivery ($8.00) and of course let's not forget those taxes.
http://dkc3.digikey.com/PDF/C081/P2214.pdf (- see Figure 1 on pdf)
It is a magnesium lithium ion rechargeable (Panasonic ML414RM/F9A - DigiKey P003CT-ND). I ordered 4 on-line (I have more than one Wizard, both suffering from the same plague - one is the one I do all the fun hacking on, and keep/use one as my main workhorse. What's fun is one is G3 and the other G4 so any ROM cooking I have tried Main OS and Extended, I can validate on both types ... sorry ... back to the battery)...
I replaced the one battery to test and it worked. It now works fine and retains the time/date settings.
Now the nore technical stuff. How was it determined that it was indeed a battery and not a capacitor. Well first of all looking at it (I work a lot with electronics). Secondly, after removing I measured a small voltage on the battery. I shorted the two leads, and measured again. The voltage began to rise again. If it were a capcitor, shorting the ends would eliminate any charge and that would be it. Being as it is a battery, it revives and returns to the pre-shorted voltage again (a capacitor would not do this).
Check your device and check the battery (if possible) before trying yourself. As I mentioned I do a lot with electronics and so I feel comfortable doing this.
For those who may want to attempt themself, a fine tipped electronics soldering iron can be used (from a Radio Shack or Source or any electronics hobby shop). Get low melting temperature solder (avoid the silver solders as these have higher melting points - don't want to cook the battery). Tin the battery leads before soldering to the board. Clean and re-tin the board itself. Avoid heating/over heating the battery too long as this will "cook" the electrolyte and dramatically shorten the battery life if not destry it. Very little on the board around this battery so less likely to do any damage to the board. If you do try .... GOOD LUCK
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The service manual speaks about a GoldCap 0,07F, 70Ohm, 3,3V (which isn't a normal capacitor) but mine looked like a small battery.
Mine was looking green because of some oxide on it. (caused by rainy jackets I thihk)
Is it really possible that the service manual is wrong? I thought there are also rechargable button cells...do you know for sure a regular lithium cell is ok?
(oh, my device is a prophet)
THIS IS A HIGH CAPACITY CAPACITOR also called super capacitor.
looking at what is printed GoldCap 0,07F, 70Ohm, 3,3V
F=Farad (capacitance values are normally specified in nano, micro, milli farads etc
I tried soldering on a broken USB connector in a wizard once but messed it all up, it seems they use some RoHS tin which makes it very difficult to make clean connections.
No! Not A Capacitor! Yes A Battery!
Folks,
This is indeed a battery in the HTC Wizard and NOT A CAPACITOR. A 0.07F capacitor would be physically several times larger than the phone itself.
So regardless of what is "printed" in the service manual, this is a small magnesium lithium ion rechargeable battery.
I have changed on 2 HTC Wizards (branded ATT Cingular 8125).
What I took out was exact identical to what I purchsed from Digikey (on-line as posted in my earlier comment)(and yes, the soldering is/was a tad bit difficult - if you do not know what you are doing).
Signed (Nandaly), B.A.Sc., P.Eng.
Hi guys,
I have really huge problem! When i connect my htc tytn to charger ( wall charger or usb, same thing) it drains battery ! There is orange light like it is charging, but it goes from 100% to 0 in an hour! Battery works fine... 2 - 3 days... and because i can't charge it over usb, i am using nokia charger, cut the wires, took battery out and connect + to +, - to - and that's how i charge it for the last few days! Does anyone has any idea why is this happening? I have wm 6.1 pays rom i think it is 3.05
Fire Hazard
i warn angst doing this as this could over charge the battery and when a Lithium Iron or Polymer is over charged they burst into flames or explode and spread nasty toxic chemicals every where. if this be the case it may be time to try a new rom and see if that fixes your problem, try someone elce's charger if this wont fix your problem it may bet time for a new mainboard as these have the charging circuit built in
lithium rechargeable are compact high energy storages devices, and if not charged properly become dangerous
I had charging issues with my 8125 - it would charge with the charger, but when I unplugged the charger (it would read 100%, say I charged from 52% to 100% or something), it would drop really low to like 25% or 23% - sometimes it dropped all the way, and I could no longer get the battery to charge because my travel charger was 500mA and the original charger was 1A - it didn't have enough power.
I had to give it a boost by using a 9V battery and twist ties - touching the battery like you are doing here. I did it for 15 seconds a couple times, popped it in, and it had enough juice to start charging. However, I wouldn't want to do this too long on it as the battery got warm pretty quick and I saw a glimpse of smoke at one point.
After being cautious and not letting it lose charge all the way again, after a few charges it seems to have improved. It no longer drops battery power when unplugging and seems to work as it should.
Not sure if yours drops when you unplug it like mine was, or if it steadily drains while plugged in. Anyways, I thought my charger was just wacked, but it is working fine now after a few charges and being careful and keeping a close eye on things....I also thought it was the battery, but I ordered a new OEM battery, popped it in, and when I unplugged the charger that battery dropped and lost power as well. Now I have two batteries and both seem to work ok, but I did have to play around with them a lot and it did take a few charges before they started working like they should again. I'm not sure what was going on, because it couldn't have been the battery (I replaced it with a new one), and now the charger is acting properly.
Granted, this is all with an 8125 which is older, but there may be something in common here. All I know is it does seem to be fixed and it didn't require any additional purchases or replacements.
sounds like the charging circuits are wacked, this could be caused by dry joints on the charger "smart" chip, but a little heads up with Li-Ion, they don't like gettin wet, (sweat included) once they have been wet they become a fire hazard, (ultramag69 help me out here, remember that one you gave me that was full of mud?!?).
they also don't like going below their threshold voltage of 2.1v per cell, (i think 2.1 for now) after that the battery becomes a resistor and is not worth trying to shock back into life with a 9V battery, as these have a protection circuit built in, as well once in this state they become another fire hazard, it may be worth buying a cheap $30 butane soldering iron with surface mount attachment and just going over some of the areas located round and on the opposite side of the battery, every thing under the silver covers is RF shielded and not worth trying to reflow.
just don't keep the heat on too long, as you may and will desolder components on the opposite side of the board.
other than that if the charger is giving +5 volts respective to its ground, its fine, the difference between the 1A and 500mA chargers is the rate at which its charges the battery, slower is better for Li-Ion due to battery construction for the life span of the battery (if you get more than 6 months out of one your doing good by manufactures standards)
heck even try checking the phones USB connector, it may be stuffed or shorted
Guys, I've looked around some, but can't find the information I need for this project. I've come into posession of a friend's Nexus 7 8GB that's cracked, as I have two projects in mind for it. The first is making my own external battery pack with the battery from the tablet.
I know the battery is rated for 3.7V at 4325mAh. A standard USB input is powered with 4.5-5.5V. I'm somewhat electrically knowledgeable, but I'm stumped on how to make sure I don't fry my phone or my Nexus 7 by plugging this battery into the USB port. My other dilemma is charging the battery back up, I'm assuming that this will take a small circuit to do.
Any ideas?
Thanks,
Austin
atminside said:
Guys, I've looked around some, but can't find the information I need for this project. I've come into posession of a friend's Nexus 7 8GB that's cracked, as I have two projects in mind for it. The first is making my own external battery pack with the battery from the tablet.
I know the battery is rated for 3.7V at 4325mAh. A standard USB input is powered with 4.5-5.5V. I'm somewhat electrically knowledgeable, but I'm stumped on how to make sure I don't fry my phone or my Nexus 7 by plugging this battery into the USB port. My other dilemma is charging the battery back up, I'm assuming that this will take a small circuit to do.
Any ideas?
Thanks,
Austin
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hey Austin,
tell us exactly how you would like this battery to be used-
1. do you want to recharge battery over the USB port?
2. for what exactly you want to use the battery? For some other device? or for Nexus 7? Be more specific please.
I would generally advise if you want to do cool thing like
"external battery that can be hooked to device on-the-go as a mobile range extender"
you want to do this?
in this line of thinking we take note of;
-Voltage of battery nominal
-Voltage of the charging sources (110V,220V,USB +5V /4.5-5.5V/ )
+now when you are sure of this here you go
-at the bare minimum;
- resistors to lower the voltage in/reduce charging current (yes,minimalistic circuit),with a method to check/determine when battery is nearly full 99% cap as per li-ion battery requirement.Take note lithium ion batteries are absolutely forbidden to be overloaded or else kaboom!, self destruct, fire etc./take a look at youtube "li-ion self destruct"
-dig the li-ion charge reqs and methods from the available knowledge sources (e.g. the internet,electronic forums)
Are you up to this project?Wanna companion for this?Just let me know..
You need 3 things to use a raw battery as a USB source:
- a boost converter, to convert the battery's approximately 3.7V to a stable 5V
- a battery charger
- a protection circuit
The protection circuit is very important. If you over-discharge or over-charge a Li-ion battery, you can run into (explosive) trouble.
The battery may have a circuit on board. Can you see any circuitry in the cell? How many wires come out of it?
For example, eBay has plenty of random parts that should do the job:
Protection unit
Charger
Boost converter
You'll want to be really careful if the battery doesn't have on-board protection circuity. Lithium based batteries tend to explode or catch fire if they're improperly charged. Heck, you even hear about it happening to batteries in phones while they're in peoples pockets. Though I would assume some are from dodgy third party batteries.
You might be able to use something like the LiPo Rider Pro which is a premade board for charging Lithium Polymer batteries. It has two USB ports, one for charging and one for supplying power.
If you've never designed a power supply PCB before then I recommend using a ready made device like that, otherwise you could end up getting burned, literally.
A few years ago I just used one of those big 6V batteries and put a USB connector on it. Worked without any problems!
jhlaird said:
You need 3 things to use a raw battery as a USB source:
- a boost converter, to convert the battery's approximately 3.7V to a stable 5V
- a battery charger
- a protection circuit
The protection circuit is very important. If you over-discharge or over-charge a Li-ion battery, you can run into (explosive) trouble.
The battery may have a circuit on board. Can you see any circuitry in the cell? How many wires come out of it?
For example, eBay has plenty of random parts that should do the job:
Protection unit
Charger
Boost converter
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
This is of interest to me. I have a Zerolemon 7000mah battery and I'd like to use it as a recharging power pack for my i747 Gs3. With the newer high capacity batteries, this seems like a natural to me--if I'm out somewhere and don't want to put the Zerolemon in my Gs3, just hook it up to recharge. Is the lack of this kind of accessory due to varying battery types? I'd buy something like this if I could find one.
How to make it:
atminside said:
Guys, I've looked around some, but can't find the information I need for this project. I've come into posession of a friend's Nexus 7 8GB that's cracked, as I have two projects in mind for it. The first is making my own external battery pack with the battery from the tablet.
I know the battery is rated for 3.7V at 4325mAh. A standard USB input is powered with 4.5-5.5V. I'm somewhat electrically knowledgeable, but I'm stumped on how to make sure I don't fry my phone or my Nexus 7 by plugging this battery into the USB port. My other dilemma is charging the battery back up, I'm assuming that this will take a small circuit to do.
Any ideas?
Thanks,
Austin
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Steps:
1. Learn or know battery and charger technology - especially concerning heat and fire safety. You do not want your house or car burn down "just because you hacked together a little interesting project". Take full consideration of all the sides of it. Experience..
2. Do it.
3. Share it here.
4. Evolve the design together with electronic-savy guys here.
Thats that.
Aside of the notes above - it is an interesting stuff if you have time for it.
Anyone been able to turn on this phone and run it without a battery with permanent power?
Short answer: not possible.
Longer answer: You would need a pretty hefty engineering brain to figure this out, as the circuitry of the daughter board detects and adjusts the mainboards voltages and such, based on the battery output. When battery output is 0, meaning dead/removed battery, the daughter board doesn't supply voltages to the mainboard.
Now, you could replace the battery with a supercapacitor, but you'd need to have a pretty big one to output the current of a fully charged battery of the 6P - something around the 10kf mark, which IIRC from my university days, is roughly the size of 2 D-cell batteries or so. You'd then need to wire this all in, and even if you made it neat and 3D printed a new back, you went from a slim phone to a small brick. You'd also still need to provide current to charge the super capacitor, which doesn't use normal voltages like the charger and daughterboard can output, so you'd need to add in a voltage regulator board, wire that to the daughterboard, let the DB send current to the mainboard, and since this all outputs a lot of heat, now you run into a serious heating / cooling problem. Add a fan, a larger super capacitor to power said fan, and well, you now have something that looks like a bomb lol.
To touch further on the heat problem - my dash camera has a 10kf SC in it that I wired in instead of the crappy NiCad battery it came with. It was hot enough to keep the snow melted through the windshield on its own with 12v 1a current - roughly 20% of the current the wall charger of the 6p provides. It didn't keep the whole windshield free, rather, a spot large enough to let the camera do its thing without issue.
Thanks Wiltron for your reply. Doesn't seem worth it for me to go through that much trouble to be honest, besides, having something in your car that looks like a bomb these days will get me more attention than I want. I do have to say that I'm able to power the phone with just the charger connected, but up to a certain point, when the cpu spikes while booting it runs short of power and shuts off. Same thing when I'm fully booted into android, I disconnect the battery and it will stay running up to the point where I start some app or even just turn the phone on its side and the phone just goes dark. I'm thinking that the daughterboard does provide power to the motherboard without a battery, but just not enough. Do you think a heftier charger might overload the circuitry of the phone?
cbgreen said:
Do you think a heftier charger might overload the circuitry of the phone?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It can provide as much current as normal operations permit, however just make sure the cable and charger are official and supported, like Benson certified cables and a decent quality car charger like Anker.
Don't go crazy with the 50amp 120v brick chargers for cars, but don't grab the cheap ass gas station 0.5a 5v 4 for $10 special either
Tronsmart has good ones - I use one personally that has the certified USB C cable built into it.. minimal issues other than the thing does get hot