Does it harm to have the device connected the whole day either to the power outlet or to pc with the USB cable?
No, it doesnt matter very much how much you charge an Li-Ion battery, though it is best to use it a bit. (just my thoughts though). Being on power all day long cant really harm the device itself.
First of all, why do you want to do that?
Anyway, as whizz said, not much harm will be done to your phone, but just make sure your screen is off. Although not a common problem, there are reports that you can get burn-in (is this the right word?) for LCD screen (eg you can shadow-y image on your screen for displaying something too long).
cos when I am at the office I can keep my pda connected to my laptop the whole workin day
If you just wnat to have your phone connected to your laptop, for whatever reason, you can disable the USB charging for your phone.
i think not harm
the battery is lithium ion and leaving it on will cause no damage whatsoever. Its charging circuit will stop charge when its full anyway.
Too many people still live in the stoneage regarding batterys and think its like the old Ni-cad batts which didnt have a charging circuit and could over charge.
Leave it in all day, all night and for an entire year. It will do nothing to damage it.
weel I was just worried for overcharging, but if the circuit stops the charging when battery if full, it's ok then
dannyoneill said:
the battery is lithium ion and leaving it on will cause no damage whatsoever. Its charging circuit will stop charge when its full anyway.
Too many people still live in the stoneage regarding batterys and think its like the old Ni-cad batts which didnt have a charging circuit and could over charge.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
If they are from stone age, you must be from Mars. Old Ni-Cad battery DO have circuits that prevent over charge. As a matter of fact, if you were to be using normal (slow) charger, you do not need any circuit to stop the charge. You can't charge a battery with the same voltage if the battery itself already had the same voltage. Go dig up your old physics book and read on the chaper on electricity.
Anyway, the common `battery knowhow` on NiCad batteries is that they need regular discharge to keep it on top shape. This is due to the fact that NiCad battery has the 'memory effect' (or oltage depression) that will cause it to work on their normal working voltages that they got used to (eg when it is plugged into a charger). Do a google on this if you are interested on lengthy explaination.
For the current Li-ion battery, the memory effect has been relatively 'concurred'. However, this does not mean you can have it on charger 24/7. Li-ion has its own aging process which is dependant on their normal working temperature (the cooler the better). Hence, having the battery pluged-in 24/7 is not a good thing (eg notice the relative raise in temperature of the battery while being pluged-in?). Do a google on this aging process.
Related
my jasjar is turn off when it get to 40% buttery power , what can it be ? if i charge it it dosent turn off but without power charger it work just until 40% .
thanks in advance.
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?p=1081974#post1081974
sometimes this is just due to topping up charges and there is not a "continuous" supply current in the battery at that 40% mark. I had it once but always top up whenever halfway or very low and never had problem, but a way to fix the glitch is to drain the battery and then fully charge it
Li-Ion batteries do not suffer from memory effect. I have read in several tech reports on Li-Ion technology that it is actually better to top up often, like a lead acid battery. If the battery goes into deep discharge conditions, this will potentially cause serious problems. Assuminb the protection circuits in the battery work, this shouldn't be an issue though.The main problem is that the cells oxidise and stop transferring the charge to the device. This starts as soon as they are made and can't be stopped. If the oxidisation between cells is bad enough, the only use you get is from cells one side of this barrier. The battery still reports charge because the other cells still have it but they can't be usedBottom line is that the battery is poor on the Uni and lasts less than a year.Get a new one from another source, Cameron Sinio or whatever they are called are usually good.
pug said:
Li-Ion batteries do not suffer from memory effect. I have read in several tech reports on Li-Ion technology that it is actually better to top up often, like a lead acid battery.
<...>
Get a new one from another source, Cameron Sinio or whatever they are called are usually good.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yeah I always put it into charger cradle when driving home -- nice way to keep it topped up.
Recently my battery started to play up and I have ordered one from BatteryUpgrade.com - a Cameron Sino battery for £18.xx has arrived quickly but could not serve the purpose - was not charging and eventually totally discharged.
Also was not indicating charge properly - always 100% (the LED is still Amber, not Green as you would expect at 100%).
I wonder if anyone else has bought Cameron Sino branded batteries and experienced same effects: 1) always 100% indication in your software and 2) lack of ability to charge?
Universal is using Lithium Polymer (light weight), not Lithium ion (heavy weight) batteries.
The main differences between li-ion and li-po batteries are the recharge/discharge rates and the construction of the core. Li-ion batteries are "wet" cells where as Li-Po batteries are "dry" which makes them thinner and more rugged. The same precautions still need to be observed and the life of the batteries is still about the same. They start becoming unusable after 300 charges and only have 40% of charge after 500 cycles. The life of 3 years is from the date of production, being stored at 40% charge and at the appropriate temperature. They are better when constantly topped up to prevent the voltage of the cells from dropping too low as this promotes oxidisation between the boundries of the cell. If they are overcharged, lithium metal is produced which is also bad. Another problem is that if the cell voltage drops too low it can never be recovered meaning one knackered battery. I have looked into this quite a bit as my battery has started shutting off at 60%ish, after 10 months of use which is pretty fair. I only expect batteries to last a year anyway. Good excuse to get a higher capacity battery in my opinion. I have used a Cameron Sino battery before in my Alpine and had those reporting issues for a few weeks and they dissappeared almost overnight. Don't know why but hey, isn't modern technology great?
Interesting. Thanks for you info. No wonder battery is not under gaurantee!
EastExpert said:
Yeah I always put it into charger cradle when driving home -- nice way to keep it topped up.
Recently my battery started to play up and I have ordered one from BatteryUpgrade.com - a Cameron Sino battery for £18.xx has arrived quickly but could not serve the purpose - was not charging and eventually totally discharged.
Also was not indicating charge properly - always 100% (the LED is still Amber, not Green as you would expect at 100%).
I wonder if anyone else has bought Cameron Sino branded batteries and experienced same effects: 1) always 100% indication in your software and 2) lack of ability to charge?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes, I've had 3 Cameron Sino batteries that all reported 100% regardless of charge level. Can't remember if the LED ever went green with them, or not, I'm afraid. Obviously, they all went back for refund.
Cheers,
Steve.
I got a CS battery and it started to expand, cracking the casing and seeming rather dangerous. I emailed the seller and it was replaced in 24 hours. He asked for theold one sent back so the factory could analyse it.
I had to dump the replacement recently because it wasn't giving the Uni enough current to complete a hard reset and was lockingup the device during 3G data and a call.
All in all I think 2 bad ones is enough, I will stick to the one that comes with the Uni and keep a USB cable curled up in my pocket =)
Hi!
I had a battery probelm (same one everyone else seemed to get with there 1yr old uni) where it cuts out at 60% due to the voltage from the battery dropping below the threshold really fast.
Anyway I got a new battery .. my old one was 1650ma (or something like that) I got this new one which is 1750ma (or something like that).. definitely different.
Now I plug my original charger (5v 1a) into the pda and the charge light turns on .. I leave it for an hour and the battery hasn't charged any.. in fact its lost charge as you'd expect if it had been left switched on with no supply.
So.. I plug my motorola krzr charger (5v 550ma) into it and go for a shower/sh*t/shave come back and the battery has gained 10%.. great! atleast I can charge it now.
I also have a desktop cradle charger (5v 1a), same problem.. it sits there forever and a day and discharges... no charge.. (I only got it when I got my new battery so could not prove it before hand)
USB charging works with no problems (not from the cradle one though). So my question is ... Why?
Could it be something to do with my new battery?? I got it from PDAAddons and they've always been good in the past so I believe I can rule out it being a fake.
My new battery is a Li-on Poly.. I've got to admit I didn't look at my old one to see if that was a poly too ... was definitely a li-on though.
I can live with using my moto charger on my exec but unfortunately the ac adapter for my cradle is of a different connector type (female pin sleeve thingy like nokia) so before I search the world for a 5v 550ma version I could do with knowing if i'm barking up the wrong tree and about to waste my money..
Any electronics whizzes in the house say ho!
anyone? :''-(
Aahaahaa!
I'm here! Now, what you say sounds very interesting and yet very strange, why?
- Normally more current from the charger should be better, you cannot put in the PDA more current than it's factory maximum (which I don't know how much it is, but that's not a problem), the internal charger (inside the PDA) knows how much it is and how to limit, also takes care of the right charging profile for your battery.
- You don't have to worry about the exact battery type you bought, boths are Lithium, so chargind profiles are mostly the same, these (LiIon and LiPoly) are "exchangeable" usually (I've heard of no problems until now, since several years I mean).
- If your battery is discharging means only one thing, you're not puttin current into the battery, you're taking it out of it! So, either you might have a deffective charger, a deffective charging circuit (the one inside the PDA) or a defective battery.
- You can charge the battery with your Moto's charger, so battery is probably ok, you have used your original charger/craddle until now, so they might be ok, you have charged one battery at least to 10% so PDA should be ok.
What can it be?
Possibilities are:
Slightly deffective PDA's internal charging circuit, the fact that you can charge with a lower rating charger (the one for your Razr, thing that I've done myself two weeks ago), might point to this, because you have already "limited" the maximum current to 550mA (Razr's charger max current).
Slightly different battery, most of the batteries do have some kind of thermal protection circuit inside (chip + temp sensor, etc.), if the behavior of this circuit is not "compatible" somethin strange can happen, however I personally consider this option not to be the best.
One or two of your chargers might also be somehow "deffective", why? Your original battery might be ok and you are just having problems with your chargers or your High capacity chargers (the original one and that from the craddle) have some problem to give enough juice to your batteries.
I surely might proceed as follows:
try to charge both batteries with a stand alone charger, this is not an easy task, because Lithium batteries are the most "delicate" types, charging method is the "strangest" one, I have two stand alone battery chargers that came as gift with some Nokia batteries I bought from an Ebay seller, eventually, I could give you the full schematic so you can construct it (if you want and if you can).
In this way I will not have any more suspects from the batteries.
Second, test each of my chargers, it can be done by connecting a medium -and suitable- load to each charger for some minutes.
A wire wound ceramic resistor should do the trick, ie for the Razr charger (5V, 550mA) I could use a 250mA load, R=V/I, so 5V/.25A equals 20 ohm (1.25W max power, use at least a 2W resistor, 3 or 5W better).
If the internal PDA circuit should be defective, take it to fix or try to fix for yourself.
Hope this helps
kecido said:
Aahaahaa!
I'm here! Now, what you say sounds very interesting and yet very strange, why?
- Normally more current from the charger should be better, you cannot put in the PDA more current than it's factory maximum (which I don't know how much it is, but that's not a problem), the internal charger (inside the PDA) knows how much it is and how to limit, also takes care of the right charging profile for your battery.
- You don't have to worry about the exact battery type you bought, boths are Lithium, so chargind profiles are mostly the same, these (LiIon and LiPoly) are "exchangeable" usually (I've heard of no problems until now, since several years I mean).
- If your battery is discharging means only one thing, you're not puttin current into the battery, you're taking it out of it! So, either you might have a deffective charger, a deffective charging circuit (the one inside the PDA) or a defective battery.
- You can charge the battery with your Moto's charger, so battery is probably ok, you have used your original charger/craddle until now, so they might be ok, you have charged one battery at least to 10% so PDA should be ok.
What can it be?
Possibilities are:
Slightly deffective PDA's internal charging circuit, the fact that you can charge with a lower rating charger (the one for your Razr, thing that I've done myself two weeks ago), might point to this, because you have already "limited" the maximum current to 550mA (Razr's charger max current).
Slightly different battery, most of the batteries do have some kind of thermal protection circuit inside (chip + temp sensor, etc.), if the behavior of this circuit is not "compatible" somethin strange can happen, however I personally consider this option not to be the best.
One or two of your chargers might also be somehow "deffective", why? Your original battery might be ok and you are just having problems with your chargers or your High capacity chargers (the original one and that from the craddle) have some problem to give enough juice to your batteries.
I surely might proceed as follows:
try to charge both batteries with a stand alone charger, this is not an easy task, because Lithium batteries are the most "delicate" types, charging method is the "strangest" one, I have two stand alone battery chargers that came as gift with some Nokia batteries I bought from an Ebay seller, eventually, I could give you the full schematic so you can construct it (if you want and if you can).
In this way I will not have any more suspects from the batteries.
Second, test each of my chargers, it can be done by connecting a medium -and suitable- load to each charger for some minutes.
A wire wound ceramic resistor should do the trick, ie for the Razr charger (5V, 550mA) I could use a 250mA load, R=V/I, so 5V/.25A equals 20 ohm (1.25W max power, use at least a 2W resistor, 3 or 5W better).
If the internal PDA circuit should be defective, take it to fix or try to fix for yourself.
Hope this helps
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'm gunna buy another 5v 1a charger .. I've had it reported that this cradle charger (5v 1a) doesn't work properly anyway so it may be 2 seperate problems here Thanks for you advice fella much appreciated
Charging anomaly, workaround
vbJoe said:
...Now I plug my original charger (5v 1a) into the pda and the charge light turns on ..
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Are you absotively, posilutely certain the AMBER charge light comes on fully?
I leave it for an hour and the battery hasn't charged any.. in fact its lost charge as you'd expect if it had been left switched on with no supply.
So.. I plug my motorola krzr charger (5v 550ma) into it and go for a shower/sh*t/shave come back and the battery has gained 10%.. great! atleast I can charge it now.
I also have a desktop cradle charger (5v 1a), same problem.. it sits there forever and a day and discharges... no charge.. (I only got it when I got my new battery so could not prove it before hand)
USB charging works with no problems (not from the cradle one though). So my question is ... Why?...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
There is some anomaly about charging with a plug-in charger. You may have to turn the device on so that it can recognize the charger, then close it and let it turn itself off; or perhaps it's turn it off then on, I'm not sure, but I've encountered similar oddities with both 110v, 220v, and 12v chargers, and I've seen discussion about this anomaly on this and/or other fora. Once you get the AMBER light, you're fine (as long as it's putting out at least +5v; +5.5 is better).
I think it has something to do with its looking for a [non-existent] USB signal along with the voltage under some conditions, but not others, but that's just a wild guess. Anyway, I don't think there's necessarily anything wrong with your battery, device, or charger. Hope this helps. Cheers,
Thanks for the reply, I'm 100% that the amber light turns on. Not only that the screen brightens so it definitely knows its connected. I've tried several combinations of turning it off/on etc during the charge/before but nothing seems to make this desktop charger actually put anything in the battery.
Hi guys,
I have really huge problem! When i connect my htc tytn to charger ( wall charger or usb, same thing) it drains battery ! There is orange light like it is charging, but it goes from 100% to 0 in an hour! Battery works fine... 2 - 3 days... and because i can't charge it over usb, i am using nokia charger, cut the wires, took battery out and connect + to +, - to - and that's how i charge it for the last few days! Does anyone has any idea why is this happening? I have wm 6.1 pays rom i think it is 3.05
Fire Hazard
i warn angst doing this as this could over charge the battery and when a Lithium Iron or Polymer is over charged they burst into flames or explode and spread nasty toxic chemicals every where. if this be the case it may be time to try a new rom and see if that fixes your problem, try someone elce's charger if this wont fix your problem it may bet time for a new mainboard as these have the charging circuit built in
lithium rechargeable are compact high energy storages devices, and if not charged properly become dangerous
I had charging issues with my 8125 - it would charge with the charger, but when I unplugged the charger (it would read 100%, say I charged from 52% to 100% or something), it would drop really low to like 25% or 23% - sometimes it dropped all the way, and I could no longer get the battery to charge because my travel charger was 500mA and the original charger was 1A - it didn't have enough power.
I had to give it a boost by using a 9V battery and twist ties - touching the battery like you are doing here. I did it for 15 seconds a couple times, popped it in, and it had enough juice to start charging. However, I wouldn't want to do this too long on it as the battery got warm pretty quick and I saw a glimpse of smoke at one point.
After being cautious and not letting it lose charge all the way again, after a few charges it seems to have improved. It no longer drops battery power when unplugging and seems to work as it should.
Not sure if yours drops when you unplug it like mine was, or if it steadily drains while plugged in. Anyways, I thought my charger was just wacked, but it is working fine now after a few charges and being careful and keeping a close eye on things....I also thought it was the battery, but I ordered a new OEM battery, popped it in, and when I unplugged the charger that battery dropped and lost power as well. Now I have two batteries and both seem to work ok, but I did have to play around with them a lot and it did take a few charges before they started working like they should again. I'm not sure what was going on, because it couldn't have been the battery (I replaced it with a new one), and now the charger is acting properly.
Granted, this is all with an 8125 which is older, but there may be something in common here. All I know is it does seem to be fixed and it didn't require any additional purchases or replacements.
sounds like the charging circuits are wacked, this could be caused by dry joints on the charger "smart" chip, but a little heads up with Li-Ion, they don't like gettin wet, (sweat included) once they have been wet they become a fire hazard, (ultramag69 help me out here, remember that one you gave me that was full of mud?!?).
they also don't like going below their threshold voltage of 2.1v per cell, (i think 2.1 for now) after that the battery becomes a resistor and is not worth trying to shock back into life with a 9V battery, as these have a protection circuit built in, as well once in this state they become another fire hazard, it may be worth buying a cheap $30 butane soldering iron with surface mount attachment and just going over some of the areas located round and on the opposite side of the battery, every thing under the silver covers is RF shielded and not worth trying to reflow.
just don't keep the heat on too long, as you may and will desolder components on the opposite side of the board.
other than that if the charger is giving +5 volts respective to its ground, its fine, the difference between the 1A and 500mA chargers is the rate at which its charges the battery, slower is better for Li-Ion due to battery construction for the life span of the battery (if you get more than 6 months out of one your doing good by manufactures standards)
heck even try checking the phones USB connector, it may be stuffed or shorted
Hi all
I have brought a sunny cube v7 (cheap tablet) and upon receiving this morning I went ahead and left it to charge for a few hours. When I came back it was fully charged so unplugged it imediatly powered off. I cracked it open and the battery it self is reading about 4v but after the protection circuit its reading about 2, the tablet itself is saying its fully charged but it won't turn on without charger . tried looking everywhere but all I could read was about not charging or a defunct battery. Any help is appreciated
Just give it back if it's under warranty?
Sent from my ST26i using xda premium
Thats the problem it wa from china so by the time i pay for shipping back there i might as well buy another one, it was only £40
Well, you seem to know about the protection circuit.
They can vary in coverage from over-discharge, over-charge and over-current.
Some of them will actually latch up once activated.
If you battery is reading 4 V there is no reason for the protection to be activated.
You can try bypassing the protection circuit.
That's living a bit dangerously, both as to your health and the health of the battery.
Still, as a proof of principle you could do it carefully.
You can buy a similar battery protection module on eBay for a couple of bucks.
Renate NST said:
Well, you seem to know about the protection circuit.
They can vary in coverage from over-discharge, over-charge and over-current.
Some of them will actually latch up once activated.
If you battery is reading 4 V there is no reason for the protection to be activated.
You can try bypassing the protection circuit.
That's living a bit dangerously, both as to your health and the health of the battery.
Still, as a proof of principle you could do it carefully.
You can buy a similar battery protection module on eBay for a couple of bucks.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks for the info, I work as an electrical engineer repairing phones for insurance companies so i sort of know what im on about but never had this problem before and nobody at my work has faced it so thats a dead end. all I know about it is what ive read, I havent come across any information about this problem online. Do you know if i can just buy a similar protection circuit, or can I buy a bigger size battery (both in size and capacity) and will it still charge fully? thanks for the help!
Edit:
will my tablet tell me how charged the battery is if I remove the protection circuit?
2nd Edit, what controls the voltage to the battery, the circuit on the mother board or the protection circuit, as i understand it the protectionis only there in case the mobo gets a short, in other words the mobo says "im not taking any more voltage from you battery" then proceeds to shut down, is this the case? also with charging is it the mobo that starts the trickle charge +90% batt or isit the protection circuit, any help is greatly appreciated just want to get this sorted
The protection circuit is completely invisible and inactive except in cases of failure.
Charging circuits on the main board control conditioning, charging, terminating.
Determining percentage battery charge is a bit of voodoo based on voltage, temperature and estimated current load.
I don't know if any device (some? all?) are using Hall effect current sensors to measure instead of estimating.
I would think that a slightly bigger battery would not be a problem.
A smaller battery would not like getting charged too fast.
Replacing both the battery and the protective circuit shouldn't really be a problem. Are you measuring the voltage on the battery before/after the protective circuit - under load though? A battery without a load will always show a higher voltage than when "put to work". The protecive circuit itself does put a microscopic load on the battery, but I'm not sure if its enough for a decent load voltage read. if you have an old computer fan (probably won't go around if sub-5 volts, but should tolerate load long enough for a read) or something else that will "just work" off a 3.7v supply, I'd suggest you try that before shopping for parts.
Keep in mind, if buying a new protective circuit - it should be rated to comply with your tablet. Overcharge and overdischarge voltages are fairly similar across the board - but you'll want to look at Overcharge and overdischarge currents. Make sure these do not crash with the normal operational currents of the tablet. If the tablet for example, consume up to 2 amps under heavy load - you cannot use a protective circuit with an overdischarge current rating of less than 2 amps. If you did, it would trigger the protective circuit under normal (heavy) use. Same for overcharge current - make sure it is rated with a reasonable margin above what the stock charger delivers - otherwise the stock charger will pop the circuit.
I'd also advice getting one that is designed for the number of cells the current (or new) battery "pack" will be composed of. It will make putting it together much more simple and tidy.
Dear L2 G2 owners,
I really love my battery on my LG G2 and since its not removable i want to do the best to preserve its lifespan.
So what i'm doing is, plugging in my phone to the charger when i get home and leave it there even after its been completely charged.
Is that correct or should i leave the battery to complete its cycle then charge it when its almost empty.
What other tips would you suggest.
Cheers!
Cienight said:
Dear L2 G2 owners,
I really love my battery on my LG G2 and since its not removable i want to do the best to preserve its lifespan.
So what i'm doing is, plugging in my phone to the charger when i get home and leave it there even after its been completely charged.
Is that correct or should i leave the battery to complete its cycle then charge it when its almost empty.
What other tips would you suggest.
Cheers!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
From what ive read thats exactly how youll reduce your batterys life span
Sent from my LG-D802 using xda app-developers app
The more cycles, the shorter the life span. The thing that will destroy the most is heat. These are good batteries, trickle won't do much, heat is the worst. Don't worry so much about it. Nothing you do is going to have much of a noticeable impact.
Thanks a lot for the info guys!
Sent from my LG-D802 using Tapatalk
Btw, these batteries are indeed replaceable. Just not in a normal way, and more difficult than say a MAXX. The back cover does come off. Just a thin plastic back that can be removed going clockwise from SIM tray.
Steamer86 said:
Btw, these batteries are indeed replaceable. Just not in a normal way, and more difficult than say a MAXX. The back cover does come off. Just a thin plastic back that can be removed going clockwise from SIM tray.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Clockwise while facing the screen or facing the back?
Sent from my LG-D802 using xda app-developers app
Screen to you. Easier to place back starting at bottom and working up to top a side at a time. Just my personal experience.
Any available online stores that provide such replacement batteries?
Also is there a video tutorial on how to open the back cover.
Just in case...
Sent from my LG-D802 using Tapatalk
Lithium batteries
Cienight said:
Dear L2 G2 owners,
I really love my battery on my LG G2 and since its not removable i want to do the best to preserve its lifespan.
So what i'm doing is, plugging in my phone to the charger when i get home and leave it there even after its been completely charged.
Is that correct or should i leave the battery to complete its cycle then charge it when its almost empty.
What other tips would you suggest.
Cheers!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I've done a little research on batteries from such places as Battery University, and learned a few things that might be interesting. I haven't posted enough to post links, but the location after batteryuniversity dot com is "learn/article/charging_lithium_ion_batteries" if anyone wants more information.
It seems that Li-Ion and Li-Polymer batteries are treated essentially the same; the difference is mainly in the packaging. As for charging, they do better if not charged 100%, and never discharged 100%. But one thing they say, which I was told by the salesman when I bought it (but didn't believe him at the time) is that they should not be charged while power is on. The charger is designed to trickle charge the battery, coming on at a certain voltage. But when under power, this cycle happens too often and stresses the battery too much. I suppose it might be OK to charge it while on if you watch it, and remove the cable when it gets to full charge or just under that. I suppose a timer would be ideal.
I just wish I knew how much difference it actually makes, since turning it off means you can't receive calls. I've had devices with Lithium batteries in the past that were left on a charger all night, and the batteries seemed to last for several years, which is probably longer than my phone really needs to last.
I still think its funny that people don't think that there isn't any charging logic in the phone and that it just willfully commits battery suicide if the user doesn't micromanage charging.
Back in the day, early battery tech such as NiCad was extremely sensitive to temperature and the chargers weren't designed with intelligence so they destroyed batteries with 'Fast' charging by overheating. Also, if you never let the battery discharge completely, the battery would start to form cadmium crystals and lower the apparent capacity of the battery. So, slow and deep cycles were the proper way to go. NiMH batteries were far superior and intelligent chargers were introduced but could still suffer the same symptoms of over heating with cheap chargers.
The idea that you can only trickle charge Lithium Ion/Polymer batteries is laughable. The rate of charge is controlled based on the temperature of the battery, if it heats up, the charging circuit clamps the current down, if it is cold it ramps it up. Also, contrary to wisdom applied to NiCad, deep discharges and full charges are harder on Lithium batteries than the earlier tech. In the mid ranges of charge the charger will go all out, when it reaches the top end it slows down to a trickle because the battery is more sensitive to stress at those charge levels. Conversely, if the battery is fully discharged, the charging circuit will start out with a trickle and speed up as the level increases.
On the G2, if there is high resistance across the data pins it stays in slow charge mode, most likely to protect USB ports not meant for charging, if there is low/no resistance it goes into fast charge mode, it thinks it must be connected a dedicated charger. If the charger or the cable gives the wrong setting to the phone the user is left scratching their head.
Luckily the AT&T car charger I bought with my Galaxy SIII works properly with my G2. Sadly the correct cable with my laptop, even with Lenovo's dedicated charging port, it stays in slow charge mode because it senses a data connection.
Edit: Also, the comment about not charging while the phone is on is another hold over from the NiCad days. Lithium technology could care less as all phones have regulated charging circuits now.