Hi guys,
I have really huge problem! When i connect my htc tytn to charger ( wall charger or usb, same thing) it drains battery ! There is orange light like it is charging, but it goes from 100% to 0 in an hour! Battery works fine... 2 - 3 days... and because i can't charge it over usb, i am using nokia charger, cut the wires, took battery out and connect + to +, - to - and that's how i charge it for the last few days! Does anyone has any idea why is this happening? I have wm 6.1 pays rom i think it is 3.05
Fire Hazard
i warn angst doing this as this could over charge the battery and when a Lithium Iron or Polymer is over charged they burst into flames or explode and spread nasty toxic chemicals every where. if this be the case it may be time to try a new rom and see if that fixes your problem, try someone elce's charger if this wont fix your problem it may bet time for a new mainboard as these have the charging circuit built in
lithium rechargeable are compact high energy storages devices, and if not charged properly become dangerous
I had charging issues with my 8125 - it would charge with the charger, but when I unplugged the charger (it would read 100%, say I charged from 52% to 100% or something), it would drop really low to like 25% or 23% - sometimes it dropped all the way, and I could no longer get the battery to charge because my travel charger was 500mA and the original charger was 1A - it didn't have enough power.
I had to give it a boost by using a 9V battery and twist ties - touching the battery like you are doing here. I did it for 15 seconds a couple times, popped it in, and it had enough juice to start charging. However, I wouldn't want to do this too long on it as the battery got warm pretty quick and I saw a glimpse of smoke at one point.
After being cautious and not letting it lose charge all the way again, after a few charges it seems to have improved. It no longer drops battery power when unplugging and seems to work as it should.
Not sure if yours drops when you unplug it like mine was, or if it steadily drains while plugged in. Anyways, I thought my charger was just wacked, but it is working fine now after a few charges and being careful and keeping a close eye on things....I also thought it was the battery, but I ordered a new OEM battery, popped it in, and when I unplugged the charger that battery dropped and lost power as well. Now I have two batteries and both seem to work ok, but I did have to play around with them a lot and it did take a few charges before they started working like they should again. I'm not sure what was going on, because it couldn't have been the battery (I replaced it with a new one), and now the charger is acting properly.
Granted, this is all with an 8125 which is older, but there may be something in common here. All I know is it does seem to be fixed and it didn't require any additional purchases or replacements.
sounds like the charging circuits are wacked, this could be caused by dry joints on the charger "smart" chip, but a little heads up with Li-Ion, they don't like gettin wet, (sweat included) once they have been wet they become a fire hazard, (ultramag69 help me out here, remember that one you gave me that was full of mud?!?).
they also don't like going below their threshold voltage of 2.1v per cell, (i think 2.1 for now) after that the battery becomes a resistor and is not worth trying to shock back into life with a 9V battery, as these have a protection circuit built in, as well once in this state they become another fire hazard, it may be worth buying a cheap $30 butane soldering iron with surface mount attachment and just going over some of the areas located round and on the opposite side of the battery, every thing under the silver covers is RF shielded and not worth trying to reflow.
just don't keep the heat on too long, as you may and will desolder components on the opposite side of the board.
other than that if the charger is giving +5 volts respective to its ground, its fine, the difference between the 1A and 500mA chargers is the rate at which its charges the battery, slower is better for Li-Ion due to battery construction for the life span of the battery (if you get more than 6 months out of one your doing good by manufactures standards)
heck even try checking the phones USB connector, it may be stuffed or shorted
Related
Does it harm to have the device connected the whole day either to the power outlet or to pc with the USB cable?
No, it doesnt matter very much how much you charge an Li-Ion battery, though it is best to use it a bit. (just my thoughts though). Being on power all day long cant really harm the device itself.
First of all, why do you want to do that?
Anyway, as whizz said, not much harm will be done to your phone, but just make sure your screen is off. Although not a common problem, there are reports that you can get burn-in (is this the right word?) for LCD screen (eg you can shadow-y image on your screen for displaying something too long).
cos when I am at the office I can keep my pda connected to my laptop the whole workin day
If you just wnat to have your phone connected to your laptop, for whatever reason, you can disable the USB charging for your phone.
i think not harm
the battery is lithium ion and leaving it on will cause no damage whatsoever. Its charging circuit will stop charge when its full anyway.
Too many people still live in the stoneage regarding batterys and think its like the old Ni-cad batts which didnt have a charging circuit and could over charge.
Leave it in all day, all night and for an entire year. It will do nothing to damage it.
weel I was just worried for overcharging, but if the circuit stops the charging when battery if full, it's ok then
dannyoneill said:
the battery is lithium ion and leaving it on will cause no damage whatsoever. Its charging circuit will stop charge when its full anyway.
Too many people still live in the stoneage regarding batterys and think its like the old Ni-cad batts which didnt have a charging circuit and could over charge.
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If they are from stone age, you must be from Mars. Old Ni-Cad battery DO have circuits that prevent over charge. As a matter of fact, if you were to be using normal (slow) charger, you do not need any circuit to stop the charge. You can't charge a battery with the same voltage if the battery itself already had the same voltage. Go dig up your old physics book and read on the chaper on electricity.
Anyway, the common `battery knowhow` on NiCad batteries is that they need regular discharge to keep it on top shape. This is due to the fact that NiCad battery has the 'memory effect' (or oltage depression) that will cause it to work on their normal working voltages that they got used to (eg when it is plugged into a charger). Do a google on this if you are interested on lengthy explaination.
For the current Li-ion battery, the memory effect has been relatively 'concurred'. However, this does not mean you can have it on charger 24/7. Li-ion has its own aging process which is dependant on their normal working temperature (the cooler the better). Hence, having the battery pluged-in 24/7 is not a good thing (eg notice the relative raise in temperature of the battery while being pluged-in?). Do a google on this aging process.
Hi!
I had a battery probelm (same one everyone else seemed to get with there 1yr old uni) where it cuts out at 60% due to the voltage from the battery dropping below the threshold really fast.
Anyway I got a new battery .. my old one was 1650ma (or something like that) I got this new one which is 1750ma (or something like that).. definitely different.
Now I plug my original charger (5v 1a) into the pda and the charge light turns on .. I leave it for an hour and the battery hasn't charged any.. in fact its lost charge as you'd expect if it had been left switched on with no supply.
So.. I plug my motorola krzr charger (5v 550ma) into it and go for a shower/sh*t/shave come back and the battery has gained 10%.. great! atleast I can charge it now.
I also have a desktop cradle charger (5v 1a), same problem.. it sits there forever and a day and discharges... no charge.. (I only got it when I got my new battery so could not prove it before hand)
USB charging works with no problems (not from the cradle one though). So my question is ... Why?
Could it be something to do with my new battery?? I got it from PDAAddons and they've always been good in the past so I believe I can rule out it being a fake.
My new battery is a Li-on Poly.. I've got to admit I didn't look at my old one to see if that was a poly too ... was definitely a li-on though.
I can live with using my moto charger on my exec but unfortunately the ac adapter for my cradle is of a different connector type (female pin sleeve thingy like nokia) so before I search the world for a 5v 550ma version I could do with knowing if i'm barking up the wrong tree and about to waste my money..
Any electronics whizzes in the house say ho!
anyone? :''-(
Aahaahaa!
I'm here! Now, what you say sounds very interesting and yet very strange, why?
- Normally more current from the charger should be better, you cannot put in the PDA more current than it's factory maximum (which I don't know how much it is, but that's not a problem), the internal charger (inside the PDA) knows how much it is and how to limit, also takes care of the right charging profile for your battery.
- You don't have to worry about the exact battery type you bought, boths are Lithium, so chargind profiles are mostly the same, these (LiIon and LiPoly) are "exchangeable" usually (I've heard of no problems until now, since several years I mean).
- If your battery is discharging means only one thing, you're not puttin current into the battery, you're taking it out of it! So, either you might have a deffective charger, a deffective charging circuit (the one inside the PDA) or a defective battery.
- You can charge the battery with your Moto's charger, so battery is probably ok, you have used your original charger/craddle until now, so they might be ok, you have charged one battery at least to 10% so PDA should be ok.
What can it be?
Possibilities are:
Slightly deffective PDA's internal charging circuit, the fact that you can charge with a lower rating charger (the one for your Razr, thing that I've done myself two weeks ago), might point to this, because you have already "limited" the maximum current to 550mA (Razr's charger max current).
Slightly different battery, most of the batteries do have some kind of thermal protection circuit inside (chip + temp sensor, etc.), if the behavior of this circuit is not "compatible" somethin strange can happen, however I personally consider this option not to be the best.
One or two of your chargers might also be somehow "deffective", why? Your original battery might be ok and you are just having problems with your chargers or your High capacity chargers (the original one and that from the craddle) have some problem to give enough juice to your batteries.
I surely might proceed as follows:
try to charge both batteries with a stand alone charger, this is not an easy task, because Lithium batteries are the most "delicate" types, charging method is the "strangest" one, I have two stand alone battery chargers that came as gift with some Nokia batteries I bought from an Ebay seller, eventually, I could give you the full schematic so you can construct it (if you want and if you can).
In this way I will not have any more suspects from the batteries.
Second, test each of my chargers, it can be done by connecting a medium -and suitable- load to each charger for some minutes.
A wire wound ceramic resistor should do the trick, ie for the Razr charger (5V, 550mA) I could use a 250mA load, R=V/I, so 5V/.25A equals 20 ohm (1.25W max power, use at least a 2W resistor, 3 or 5W better).
If the internal PDA circuit should be defective, take it to fix or try to fix for yourself.
Hope this helps
kecido said:
Aahaahaa!
I'm here! Now, what you say sounds very interesting and yet very strange, why?
- Normally more current from the charger should be better, you cannot put in the PDA more current than it's factory maximum (which I don't know how much it is, but that's not a problem), the internal charger (inside the PDA) knows how much it is and how to limit, also takes care of the right charging profile for your battery.
- You don't have to worry about the exact battery type you bought, boths are Lithium, so chargind profiles are mostly the same, these (LiIon and LiPoly) are "exchangeable" usually (I've heard of no problems until now, since several years I mean).
- If your battery is discharging means only one thing, you're not puttin current into the battery, you're taking it out of it! So, either you might have a deffective charger, a deffective charging circuit (the one inside the PDA) or a defective battery.
- You can charge the battery with your Moto's charger, so battery is probably ok, you have used your original charger/craddle until now, so they might be ok, you have charged one battery at least to 10% so PDA should be ok.
What can it be?
Possibilities are:
Slightly deffective PDA's internal charging circuit, the fact that you can charge with a lower rating charger (the one for your Razr, thing that I've done myself two weeks ago), might point to this, because you have already "limited" the maximum current to 550mA (Razr's charger max current).
Slightly different battery, most of the batteries do have some kind of thermal protection circuit inside (chip + temp sensor, etc.), if the behavior of this circuit is not "compatible" somethin strange can happen, however I personally consider this option not to be the best.
One or two of your chargers might also be somehow "deffective", why? Your original battery might be ok and you are just having problems with your chargers or your High capacity chargers (the original one and that from the craddle) have some problem to give enough juice to your batteries.
I surely might proceed as follows:
try to charge both batteries with a stand alone charger, this is not an easy task, because Lithium batteries are the most "delicate" types, charging method is the "strangest" one, I have two stand alone battery chargers that came as gift with some Nokia batteries I bought from an Ebay seller, eventually, I could give you the full schematic so you can construct it (if you want and if you can).
In this way I will not have any more suspects from the batteries.
Second, test each of my chargers, it can be done by connecting a medium -and suitable- load to each charger for some minutes.
A wire wound ceramic resistor should do the trick, ie for the Razr charger (5V, 550mA) I could use a 250mA load, R=V/I, so 5V/.25A equals 20 ohm (1.25W max power, use at least a 2W resistor, 3 or 5W better).
If the internal PDA circuit should be defective, take it to fix or try to fix for yourself.
Hope this helps
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I'm gunna buy another 5v 1a charger .. I've had it reported that this cradle charger (5v 1a) doesn't work properly anyway so it may be 2 seperate problems here Thanks for you advice fella much appreciated
Charging anomaly, workaround
vbJoe said:
...Now I plug my original charger (5v 1a) into the pda and the charge light turns on ..
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Are you absotively, posilutely certain the AMBER charge light comes on fully?
I leave it for an hour and the battery hasn't charged any.. in fact its lost charge as you'd expect if it had been left switched on with no supply.
So.. I plug my motorola krzr charger (5v 550ma) into it and go for a shower/sh*t/shave come back and the battery has gained 10%.. great! atleast I can charge it now.
I also have a desktop cradle charger (5v 1a), same problem.. it sits there forever and a day and discharges... no charge.. (I only got it when I got my new battery so could not prove it before hand)
USB charging works with no problems (not from the cradle one though). So my question is ... Why?...
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Click to collapse
There is some anomaly about charging with a plug-in charger. You may have to turn the device on so that it can recognize the charger, then close it and let it turn itself off; or perhaps it's turn it off then on, I'm not sure, but I've encountered similar oddities with both 110v, 220v, and 12v chargers, and I've seen discussion about this anomaly on this and/or other fora. Once you get the AMBER light, you're fine (as long as it's putting out at least +5v; +5.5 is better).
I think it has something to do with its looking for a [non-existent] USB signal along with the voltage under some conditions, but not others, but that's just a wild guess. Anyway, I don't think there's necessarily anything wrong with your battery, device, or charger. Hope this helps. Cheers,
Thanks for the reply, I'm 100% that the amber light turns on. Not only that the screen brightens so it definitely knows its connected. I've tried several combinations of turning it off/on etc during the charge/before but nothing seems to make this desktop charger actually put anything in the battery.
I bought an extra battery and charger on my Evo and noticed that recently, my Evo battery is now performing WORSE than the cheap Chinese generic knockoff battery.
The Chinese one use to run about 1 - 1.5days but now runs over 2 days (thanks to new kernel by HTC).
However, the red battery which used to give me 2 - 2.5 days run time (on older kernel), now only runs for 12hrs.
Any ideas?
Are you charging the stock red battery with the Chinese charger? You shouldnt do that. But as far as the chinese batteries, it doesn matter how you charge them.
Go into a battery program, spareparts or batteryinfo widget, and see if they are charging to the same voltage. I have several htc batteries with all about the same use, I have 2 of them that are almost a 100mv lower then the others so I "top" them off by unplugging and replugging them in a few times while charging.
sitlet said:
Are you charging the stock red battery with the Chinese charger? You shouldnt do that. But as far as the chinese batteries, it doesn matter how you charge them.
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Where did you get this info? The external chinese chargers are a slower, less powerful charge. I get more juice out of the battery than charging it in the phone, due to the quick 10% drop. Everything I have ever read says that slower charging is better for the battery in the long run. Please link where you got this from.
I have 2 batteries, the red one, and one that came with my Hero. I charge them in the cheap charger and rarely actually charge the phone.
I see no difference in battery life.
the whole quick charge tech is no good, my $4 chinese charger (no quick charge crap) works way better then charging in phone, i had an older laptop, one of the first to claim quick charge, with a battery that was wearing down about maybe 90-60min got an external charger that charges slowly and managed to recondition the already 4yr old battery to run 3hrs but went back to charging on laptop and battery slowly ran down again to about 1hr
On my PHILLIPS ppc6700, I had done this exact thing, with an eBay battery. I noticed NO difference between the two batteries, and I even ran synthetic tests to confirm. I believe I posted those results a LONG time ago on ppcfreaks.
I then bought the Saedo (sp?) 3700 ma/hr piece with the extended battery door and the dock, and that thing kicked ass. I would get like a week with an overclocked proc on fast evdo and a cooked ROM nue2chem I believe, its been a long time.
Then with my 6800 things got really bad. I went through maybe 6 phones from dead charging ports. I honestly felt like at least half of those failures (which were all replaced basically no questions asked, besides one) were due to gas-station car charges and laptop cords. Such a nightmare.
My guess is that most mini usb port failures from back then were due to the actual design standard being so loose that knock off, low cost manufacturers without precise and developed manufacturing techniques were marketing chargers that would arc my usb port to death over like a 1 hr drive. This is of course a guess. When Sprint questioned my one replacement I simply had the guy who had my phone taken apart bust out his magnifying glass and we could both clearly see burnt leads on the PCB. Couldn't see with the naked eye.
Also that older standard was thicker, and it thus exerted a little more tensional force on the port/PCB, which could have created the same effect.
Flash forward to my Evo: the new micro usb standard is FAR superior to the previous. No issues so far. Other chargers seem to work fine, without issue. You bet I was suspicious though, and I did all my checking within the return period. They DON'T have more Evos, so if you think that 8 dollars saved on a charger or something is worth it, Kool. Just as long as everyone knows the risks that have historically been associated with cheap chargers. At least anecdotally.
I would possibly consider some extended evo batter package if it was cool looking. Clear backed and extended maybe? With a small led batter level indicator on the battery itself, shining through the back with a small integrated button press.
Sent from my PC36100 using XDA Ape
cruecu said:
Where did you get this info? The external chinese chargers are a slower, less powerful charge. I get more juice out of the battery than charging it in the phone, due to the quick 10% drop. Everything I have ever read says that slower charging is better for the battery in the long run. Please link where you got this from.
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same id have to agree with this !
to clarify, the chargers i use are external not a phone charger, i wouldnt use a cheap charger on any of my phones
sitlet said:
Are you charging the stock red battery with the Chinese charger? You shouldnt do that. But as far as the chinese batteries, it doesn matter how you charge them.
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Yes, i never charge from the phone anymore. I just use the phone till it dies and then swap with a fresh ly charged battery. I charge both of them in the cheap charger.
I was thinking that maybe the phone battery recalibration got whacked? Just a guess.
Any battery charges better with a lower amp charge period. I charge my deep cell boat batteries at the beginning of the season on 2 amp trickle charge. I have had them for 10 years now. Way over the life expectancy. I charge my evo batteries on a 400 milli amp wall charger. Way better charge and they charge 100% everytime.
Sent from my PC36100 using XDA App
Okay, I'm convinced. I'm slow charging mine in an external charger.
treckin said:
On my PHILLIPS ppc6700, I had done this exact thing, with an eBay battery. I noticed NO difference between the two batteries, and I even ran synthetic tests to confirm. I believe I posted those results a LONG time ago on ppcfreaks.
I then bought the Saedo (sp?) 3700 ma/hr piece with the extended battery door and the dock, and that thing kicked ass. I would get like a week with an overclocked proc on fast evdo and a cooked ROM nue2chem I believe, its been a long time.
Then with my 6800 things got really bad. I went through maybe 6 phones from dead charging ports. I honestly felt like at least half of those failures (which were all replaced basically no questions asked, besides one) were due to gas-station car charges and laptop cords. Such a nightmare.
My guess is that most mini usb port failures from back then were due to the actual design standard being so loose that knock off, low cost manufacturers without precise and developed manufacturing techniques were marketing chargers that would arc my usb port to death over like a 1 hr drive. This is of course a guess. When Sprint questioned my one replacement I simply had the guy who had my phone taken apart bust out his magnifying glass and we could both clearly see burnt leads on the PCB. Couldn't see with the naked eye.
Also that older standard was thicker, and it thus exerted a little more tensional force on the port/PCB, which could have created the same effect.
Flash forward to my Evo: the new micro usb standard is FAR superior to the previous. No issues so far. Other chargers seem to work fine, without issue. You bet I was suspicious though, and I did all my checking within the return period. They DON'T have more Evos, so if you think that 8 dollars saved on a charger or something is worth it, Kool. Just as long as everyone knows the risks that have historically been associated with cheap chargers. At least anecdotally.
I would possibly consider some extended evo batter package if it was cool looking. Clear backed and extended maybe? With a small led batter level indicator on the battery itself, shining through the back with a small integrated button press.
Sent from my PC36100 using XDA Ape
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Not to go off topic but you typed all this on your evo? Does your finger hurt?
Sent from my PC36100 using XDA App
Alright, so yesterday, I went to Five Below to buy another charger with a longer cable than the official charger, since it's so short.
The battery was nearly dead (about 10%). I had plugged it in, turned it off, and went to bed. I woke up and checked it, the battery was only about 3/4 full (about 65 - 75%). This confused me a bit, so I checked the specifications on both chargers.
The official charger puts out 2 amps. The 3rd party charger puts out 1000 milliamps (1 amp). The official charger puts out 5.0 volts, the 3rd party puts out 5.5.
My dad said that's why it was taking so long to charge and that it will not damage the tablet, but will do significant damage to the 3rd party charger/transformer.
But did/would it do any damage to the tablet? I'm kind of paranoid about everything, as this thing is brand new. It has an uneven screen, and I'm paranoid that the tight case I'm using with it (which only latches on one side) is making it worse, even though it probably isn't. That's not the point though.
The chip that controls the charging is here http://www.summitmicro.com/prod_select/summary/SMB347/SMB347.htm. You are not going to damage anything throwing 5.5V/1A at it.
peterk-1 said:
The chip that controls the charging is here http://www.summitmicro.com/prod_select/summary/SMB347/SMB347.htm. You are not going to damage anything throwing 5.5V/1A at it.
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Ah, alright. Thanks for that link.
Your dad is right (always believe your dad, dads are always right). The device draws power from the charger, the charger does not force power into the device, so it's possible to damage the charger by drawing too much power from it making it overheat, but you are not going to do any harm to the N7. A 1A charger should charge the N7 but not as fast, it's probable that the one you bought is not really 1A, especially if it's a no-name Chinese thing.
You can just buy a longer usb cable for your Asus charger though.
Could my work on my XT1575 cause the phone to charge very slowly? As long as I was using a good QC3 charger and a QC3-certified micro USB cable my MXPE phone charged fast. I have TWO working XT1575s. When plugged into the same charger with the same USB cable they both showed "Turbocharging" and both charged quickly.
Last week I replaced the back of one of the phones. -- exchanging the original back with an ebony wooden back. I had problems getting the ebony back to stay completely adhered so I installed it, removed it, installed it again with better adhesive. looks fine now.
Now, the back is securely in place BUT THE PHONE WON'T CHARGE FAST ANYMORE. Could I have damaged something in the phone while doing all that heating during the back replacement? I use a heat gun, always on the low setting, but I for the last installation I moved the heat pretty slowly around the back to increase the heat and hopefully improve the adhesion.
Everything about the phone works perfectly, both hardware and software. When I plug in a charging cable is shows "Turbocharging" but the charge time estimated by the phone is 7 or 8 or even 9 hours. That's about how long it takes too. And the phone won't charge past about 90%.
I've already replaced the battery. I have no idea how to further diagnose the problem. Have I effectively destroyed my phone while putting on a prettier back (to summarize how stupid I'd feel)?
lesdense said:
Could my work on my XT1575 cause the phone to charge very slowly? As long as I was using a good QC3 charger and a QC3-certified micro USB cable my MXPE phone charged fast. I have TWO working XT1575s. When plugged into the same charger with the same USB cable they both showed "Turbocharging" and both charged quickly.
Last week I replaced the back of one of the phones. -- exchanging the original back with an ebony wooden back. I had problems getting the ebony back to stay completely adhered so I installed it, removed it, installed it again with better adhesive. looks fine now.
Now, the back is securely in place BUT THE PHONE WON'T CHARGE FAST ANYMORE. Could I have damaged something in the phone while doing all that heating during the back replacement? I use a heat gun, always on the low setting, but I for the last installation I moved the heat pretty slowly around the back to increase the heat and hopefully improve the adhesion.
Everything about the phone works perfectly, both hardware and software. When I plug in a charging cable is shows "Turbocharging" but the charge time estimated by the phone is 7 or 8 or even 9 hours. That's about how long it takes too. And the phone won't charge past about 90%.
I've already replaced the battery. I have no idea how to further diagnose the problem. Have I effectively destroyed my phone while putting on a prettier back (to summarize how stupid I'd feel)?
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Either you have a cheap low quality battery or you probably burnt it up with the heat gun. The NFC pad is on top of the battery if that still works then I highly doubt anything else was damaged but I could be wrong. Worse case scenario you desoldered something on the motherboard but I doubt it. First check the wattage on your wall charger if it says 5 volts and 1 Amp then that's your issue. Most wall chargers or USB ports I use have to be at least 5 volts and 2 amps or it will not charge and it'll actually get stuck at 90% like in your case because the charge rate slows down after 80% I believe and a crap wall charger won't have enough power to charge the phone like a high quality OEM wall charger would.