Database Users

having trouble replacing touch matrix... need help, pictures included

so my touch matrix cracked, got a replacement on ebay that looks perfect. i got it to work but everytime a do, a few days later it stops working until i fix it again. i can't seem to figure out how the flexible PCB connects to the back of the LCD module. it looks like HTC just puts a piece of tape over it.
however, i noticed when taking off the old LCD touch matrix that there was some sort of possibly conductive adhesive that made it very difficult to pull off. i got it off but one of the contacts got stuck on there and it i had to scrape it off with a scalpel.
see picture below for exact details. if anyone has any experience in doing this and getting it to work, please let me know, it's so frustrating not having touch on this phone.
{
"lightbox_close": "Close",
"lightbox_next": "Next",
"lightbox_previous": "Previous",
"lightbox_error": "The requested content cannot be loaded. Please try again later.",
"lightbox_start_slideshow": "Start slideshow",
"lightbox_stop_slideshow": "Stop slideshow",
"lightbox_full_screen": "Full screen",
"lightbox_thumbnails": "Thumbnails",
"lightbox_download": "Download",
"lightbox_share": "Share",
"lightbox_zoom": "Zoom",
"lightbox_new_window": "New window",
"lightbox_toggle_sidebar": "Toggle sidebar"
}

I think you might need to have that professionally repaired. I used to refurbish phones for Motorola but I've never taken anything this advanced apart before. It sounds like you shouldn't have scraped off that conductive adhesive. The digitizer you bought should have been a relatively simple installation but you should have taken your time peeling off the old cracked digitizer. That adhesive is pretty strong and thats why they use it.
You might want to look into getting your hands on some of that adhesive and just replace it all. Sometimes the oils from your skin from handling such a sensitive ribbon cable could have damaged it as well.
P.S. Unfortunately, most of the people here are software genius's, not hardware experts unfortunately.

it's not too advanced. i figure if they at least offer the part as a replacement option on ebay it can't be too hard. and in the mass view, it's only 4 contacts and relatively easy to replace if you have a minor knowledge of electronics.
i keep taping it down firmly and even putting extra tape on top so that the pressure of the case will press down on the pcb to have a firmer connection.
note: i was very careful to observe ESD precautions, so that isn't it, plus there's no semiconductors that could be damaged in the touch matrix.

dudah85 said:
it's not too advanced. i figure if they at least offer the part as a replacement option on ebay it can't be too hard. and in the mass view, it's only 4 contacts and relatively easy to replace if you have a minor knowledge of electronics.
i keep taping it down firmly and even putting extra tape on top so that the pressure of the case will press down on the pcb to have a firmer connection.
note: i was very careful to observe ESD precautions, so that isn't it, plus there's no semiconductors that could be damaged in the touch matrix.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hmm... have you tried good old fashion superglue? I mean not neccesarily putting it on the end of the cable where the conductors are, but on the cable right near the conductors to keep it from moving around and then placing a few strips of tape to sandwich the cable with the housing pressing it down tight?

yes i have but i fear what happens if when pressing it down if it gets on the pads, then i'm just totally screwed. it's a tough situation, i wish there was a contact at HTC that could tell me how it's done.
i'm going to also try contacting their support/repair office and see if they can provide any insight.

dudah85 said:
yes i have but i fear what happens if when pressing it down if it gets on the pads, then i'm just totally screwed. it's a tough situation, i wish there was a contact at HTC that could tell me how it's done.
i'm going to also try contacting their support/repair office and see if they can provide any insight.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The superglue option is very risky but it could save your @$$ if you only put very little on the ribbon and then hold it in place untill it dries and then press down once the glue is already dry.
On another note, contacting their support office would probably be your best bet.
Everything you have done, even though not done wrong, it a far greater risk than I would have ever taken... I would have sent it in to be repaired of the digitizer had a crack in it or or the dot matrix got scratched. But thats me.
Unfortunately there aren't too many technicians here on this forum since it is almost completely firmware and not hardware here... Then again, there might be a few. Where I live it's kinda late at night so maybe they're sleeping or something. Lol.

i'm neither a hardware nor a software expertm but i may be able to help... i saw the manual somewhere... www.mdatweak.com/downloads/Wizard_Service_Manual.pdf... try that... maybe it'll help you...

HTC Blackstone Service Manual

HTC Blackstone Service Manual now available:
www.mikechannon.net
Mike

cool thanks mate

Woo !
Many thanks

thanks! useful!

Good News...thanks

Thanks Mike

Thanks, mikechannon
​

I am not a very techi person, could someone predict for me how difficult would it be to repalce a dented metal frame

Great!
thanks very much! you are so fast!!

hykhleif said:
I am not a very techi person, could someone predict for me how difficult would it be to repalce a dented metal frame
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Looking at the service manual, the screen and bezel can not be seperated, so i guess it is gonna be expensive i.e if you want to replace the bezel you will also get a new screen.
Suggest people ensure their phone is covered by insurance!

so do you think its easy to replace the screen and metal frame?
I am really considering to buy a dummy htc hd but before I do I just want make sure that if it is easy to do by myself

hykhleif said:
so do you think its easy to replace the screen and metal frame?
I am really considering to buy a dummy htc hd but before I do I just want make sure that if it is easy to do by myself
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
A dummy htc hd will probably not have a real screen and looking at the service manual, there appears to be no option to detach the screen from the bezel, however this comment is just based on observation and hopefully someone that has taken one apart can confirm.
I saw a discussion on the forum somewhere that the cost of a new screen was almost half the cost of the touch HD itself due to the fact that the bezel had to be replaced at the same time.

Thanks for the manual...
So... can anyone confirm the N. America frequencies that are listed in the manual on page 5?? Does this de-bunk the HTC twitter message??

Thanks for share!

Thanks at lot

ardsar said:
A dummy htc hd will probably not have a real screen and looking at the service manual, there appears to be no option to detach the screen from the bezel, however this comment is just based on observation and hopefully someone that has taken one apart can confirm.
I saw a discussion on the forum somewhere that the cost of a new screen was almost half the cost of the touch HD itself due to the fact that the bezel had to be replaced at the same time.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I managed to detach the screen from the bezel, but it really was a hard peace of work. You have to stick a thin peace of plastic between the screen an the bezel and lever the display. You should be very careful due to the lcd display and the digitizer are glued together and you might get between the digitizer and the display and destroy it that way. The other thing you should'nt do is lervering the display on the bottom (where the usb connector is) due to the flatcable is located there and you will destroy it with the plastic tool.
{
"lightbox_close": "Close",
"lightbox_next": "Next",
"lightbox_previous": "Previous",
"lightbox_error": "The requested content cannot be loaded. Please try again later.",
"lightbox_start_slideshow": "Start slideshow",
"lightbox_stop_slideshow": "Stop slideshow",
"lightbox_full_screen": "Full screen",
"lightbox_thumbnails": "Thumbnails",
"lightbox_download": "Download",
"lightbox_share": "Share",
"lightbox_zoom": "Zoom",
"lightbox_new_window": "New window",
"lightbox_toggle_sidebar": "Toggle sidebar"
}
http://mobile.brando.com.hk/htc-tou...splay-with-touch-screen-_p04019c0696d088.html
http://mikechannon.net/PDF Manuals/HTC_Blackstone_Service_Manual.pdf
I did replace the display from my TC very easily but on the HD I had hugh problems.

Did you manage to remov ethe antenna cover like in the manual? I don't seem to be able to remove it.
I ran over my phone with the car and I want to dismantle it to check what parts are broken.

tinutac said:
Did you manage to remov ethe antenna cover like in the manual? I don't seem to be able to remove it.
I ran over my phone with the car and I want to dismantle it to check what parts are broken.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes I did without destroying it, but I needed special tools. I used a very thin peace of metal. On page 20 from the dissembling manuel you can see the two square holes where the antenna cover is attached to the body.
Just go on and try it but be careful not to brake the little plastic clamps.

mikechannon said:
HTC Blackstone Service Manual now available:
www.mikechannon.net
Mike
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Cheers mate. I'll have a look

Thanks mikechannon

Securing a PCB

I'm planning to make a controller this summer, but the PCB I'm using is a lot smaller than the case I need to use. How do I secure the PCB so it isn't flopping everywhere?

Me, I'd just use hot glue because I have a gun right here.

I have a hot glue gun, too; would that hold it down securely enough? It's a fightstick, it'll get bashed around a lot. A bit rough.

If the PCB has mounting holes you can use screws through the case, a standoff or spacer and a nut.
If you want, you can countersink the case for flat head screws.
If you don't want any holes in the case at all, you can use one of my new favorite pieces of hardware, a "round base T-nut".
Glue the base to the inside of the case with epoxy and mount the PCB with screws.
{
"lightbox_close": "Close",
"lightbox_next": "Next",
"lightbox_previous": "Previous",
"lightbox_error": "The requested content cannot be loaded. Please try again later.",
"lightbox_start_slideshow": "Start slideshow",
"lightbox_stop_slideshow": "Stop slideshow",
"lightbox_full_screen": "Full screen",
"lightbox_thumbnails": "Thumbnails",
"lightbox_download": "Download",
"lightbox_share": "Share",
"lightbox_zoom": "Zoom",
"lightbox_new_window": "New window",
"lightbox_toggle_sidebar": "Toggle sidebar"
}

No mounting holes in it, sadly. If it helps, it's a 360 controller mobo.
Sent from my ASUS Transformer Pad TF300T using XDA Premium HD app

obsidianchao said:
If it helps, it's a 360 controller mobo.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes, that does help.
I would buy some rubber grommets that fit the two holes on the pointy ends and the two slots at the top.
I'd glue in (4) 1/4-20 T-nuts, use a flat washer underneath and a bolt on top of the grommet.
Shock mount and everything.

Oh, wow, that's perfect. Thanks!
Sent from my ASUS Transformer Pad TF300T using XDA Premium HD app

Double sided Foam Tape, or even Better Servo Tape
Servo tape is used to hold Down Servos in RC Cars, Planes, helicopters etc.

You've got me thinking, obsidianchao.
I can get a wired Xbox 360 controller at Family Dollar for $11.
I'm not sure if they implement the whole deal, but 11 switch inputs, 2 joysticks,
a headset interface and a UART would be a great deal.
I'm sure that the switches and things are not the best quality, but I wouldn't be reusing them.
Hmm...

Hot glue
Hot glue is the best idea...

I agree with the above posts that suggest the screws in the pcb and then to the box. It is likely not entirely a feasible solution if you have a pcb without holes for starters. I have no idea what your project details are to know whether or not to suggest to you drilling or punching holes in yourself (if that is the route you choose to take for securing that is)
I am highly against hot glue just because it firstly gives and no offense to anyone or their suggestion, just a messy quick solution which I again not knowing what you are working on or how much neatness and whatever matters to you. I have a particular way with doing stuff as neat and clean as possible in regard to stuff like electronics work but that is just me and not trying to be rude but the main glaring issue I have with the hot glue idea is the potential for the heat from the glue or gun to alter or damage the project board like if you have things on the pcb that could be compromised by overheating and what not. Nevermind potentially damaging via warping the PCB itself which can cause a potential project-in-the-can situation if you get me... and if you choose to glob tons of the stuff on the bottom of your project or however and stick it in, sure it will be stuck to the project box but I would say have a DMM handi to check values of circuits or damage/warping unless this is really not that serious of a project for things like neatness to matter.
I have to say that the double sided tape is a nice middle of the road idea that does not really compromise anything unless it is placed over any components that can and do radiate heat like if it is a power supply style project or things that could cause a melting of tape in places and potential icky smells to emanate from the project box
Though I probably caused some more confusion with my excessive analysis of the main suggestions, I hope it helped shed a bit of light on the potential dangers or things to look out for with whatever methods as to not ruin your hard work or compromise it. Just sayin..:good: :laugh:

I ended up buying a controller. It was on sale for $6.60, an XBox wired controller.
Not being a gamer I hadn't realized that XBox came in two flavors.
I took out the original cord and put in a USB cord.
It appears as a 3 port hub, with a vendor specific on the first port.
The other two ports are the "memory modules" and I may wire up regular USB sockets to that.
I'll have to find a driver for it.

Z3C wireless charging achieved

Hey all,
I got this idea from someone else here, but I couldnt find the thread again to post this there.
My wife wanted a tough case, but she didn't want to have to use the USB port to charge. She had read, and she felt that the flap over the USB was too fragile.
So I decided to mod her Qi Charging.
We got her this case:
(too new can't post links)
and I got these things for the mod:
(too new can't post links)
I used a small piece of card paper (that came with the charger) I measured and drew out the design on the card, then I used the copper tape to make the contacts. I used two unbroken stips.
I used two small rolled up bits of copper tape to push the points out a little.
then I cut the wire off the charger and peeled back the shielding.
It turns out that there is some unshielded copper right under the thick part of the wire.
I did two very basic solders right to the tape, lined it up in the case and presto! Qi charging.
I did all the copper runs under the charger to prevent interference.
See pics for more detail.
If you have any questions I would be happy to help.
Sorry about the size of the photos.
{
"lightbox_close": "Close",
"lightbox_next": "Next",
"lightbox_previous": "Previous",
"lightbox_error": "The requested content cannot be loaded. Please try again later.",
"lightbox_start_slideshow": "Start slideshow",
"lightbox_stop_slideshow": "Stop slideshow",
"lightbox_full_screen": "Full screen",
"lightbox_thumbnails": "Thumbnails",
"lightbox_download": "Download",
"lightbox_share": "Share",
"lightbox_zoom": "Zoom",
"lightbox_new_window": "New window",
"lightbox_toggle_sidebar": "Toggle sidebar"
}

Nice work
What are the charge times like?
Also you can post links by putting a space before the .com i am pretty sure, doesnt make it a hyperlink though.

nzzane said:
Nice work
What are the charge times like?
Also you can post links by putting a space before the .com i am pretty sure, doesn't make it a hyperlink though.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Just finished today so I can't say much about the charge times. The multi-meter I used was showing about 5-7 watts so I would guess that charging time should be about the same too a little slower than standard USB.
Here are the links with the space before the ".com"
http://smile.amazon .com/gp/product/B00HI8JYFE?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00
http://smile.amazon .com/gp/product/B00EY44I42?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00
don't be fooled by the listing the copper tape does NOT have Conductive Adhesive... at least not good enough to trust.

Very interesting. I didn't thought that the module could be so slim you can probably put it between your case and the phone without changing the thickness.
My rear glass is already broken, maybe I'll think about an internal soldering.
This module :
http://www.trait-tech.com/product/T-SAM-7226B__new-arrivedultra-slim-qi-wireless-charging-receiver-module-for-most-phone-with-micro-usb-interface-bottom-left-and-inward-of-micro-usb-interface.html
seems better to avoid interferences.

nzzane said:
Nice work
What are the charge times like?
.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Simple.
Technical details of that QI receiver:
Output: 5V /500mA
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Z3C Battery is 2600mAh.
Therefore you can say, that a full charge takes a bit more than 5 hours.

flamand
I'm looking forward to trying this. However, I don't understand one thing: how are the contacts that match up to the magnetic thing on the side of the phone connected to the wireless charger receiver? Do the two long strips of copper under the receiver connect up to the two short strips that make contact with the phone?

This is very nice, gotta try it sometime! Also, what case are you using?

Did it too, thanks for the thread.
My back glass was already broken so I had nothing to loose.
I installed the devilcase aluminum bump and the leather back they gave is pretty convenient to hide the glass.
I do not think you can achieve that with a pristine glass because the result is very slightly cambered, I don't notice it on a daily basis.
Here are the pics :

Waterproofness?
VERY NICE, been looking for something like this!
my question is how this fairs in waterproofness. is the QI receiver module waterproof?

FPC Battery Connector for main logic board

Hi guys, is there anywhere I can get a fpc battery terminal for the logic board as per image attached? one of the brass prongs got caught in the battery and pinged off to my horror!
{
"lightbox_close": "Close",
"lightbox_next": "Next",
"lightbox_previous": "Previous",
"lightbox_error": "The requested content cannot be loaded. Please try again later.",
"lightbox_start_slideshow": "Start slideshow",
"lightbox_stop_slideshow": "Stop slideshow",
"lightbox_full_screen": "Full screen",
"lightbox_thumbnails": "Thumbnails",
"lightbox_download": "Download",
"lightbox_share": "Share",
"lightbox_zoom": "Zoom",
"lightbox_new_window": "New window",
"lightbox_toggle_sidebar": "Toggle sidebar"
}
Gutted is an understatement!

@turbotux If it's *just* the connector you want, and you're happy/able to solder it to the board, you can get it here.....
http://www.fonejoy.com/genuine-sams...edge-j1-j5-battery-connector-3711-008737.html
I personally wouldn't touch a hand soldering job like that, and I have been regularly using a soldering iron on all sorts of kit for over 20 years. The connectors are invariably microscopic and the potential to cause other, accidental damage is too high.
But if you want to try it....fair play and good luck (I think you'll need it).

Having actually had a 'close up' look at the connector, the solder points are bigger than I thought they would be (I've hand soldered smaller contacts). It would be possible to hand solder, but you'd need a *very* fine tipped soldering iron. And preferably one that produced a lower level of heat than a 'regular' soldering iron.

keithross39 said:
Having actually had a 'close up' look at the connector, the solder points are bigger than I thought they would be (I've hand soldered smaller contacts). It would be possible to hand solder, but you'd need a *very* fine tipped soldering iron. And preferably one that produced a lower level of heat than a 'regular' soldering iron.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thank you so much for the response, it appears the solder points are big enough, look it's broken each way so it's worth a try I guess.

turbotux said:
Thank you so much for the response, it appears the solder points are big enough, look it's broken each way so it's worth a try I guess.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yeah....you have a broken phone right now so why not try it? Just be *REAL* careful....There are a number of surface mounted components in close proximity to your work area....
Damaging them through accidental contact with the soldering iron (or even simple heat transfer along the board) is a BIG possibility....
---------- Post added at 04:40 PM ---------- Previous post was at 04:31 PM ----------
One final bit of advice (though you probably already know this) 'tin' or coat the solder points on the new part before going near the board. It'll help minimise the length of time the iron is in contact with the board.

I have a soldering iron with a 'home modified' reversable tip. You can see in the picture, at one end is the standard 4mm tip while at the other is a 1mm tip that tapers down to practically a needle point. This is the end that sees the most use, and it is that size of tip that you're going to need.

Just to update, I managed to solder it and it still did not work unfortunely so I've bought another n910f handset, these things happen. However the cause of this I think is down to the extended battery I had pulling on the whole module, I'm going to be running the stock batteries I have from now on.
A worthy purchase however is the extended battery I've picked up for those long cycle rides which should easily see me through, for interest its a 14000mAh Logic3 which I picked up from Maplin for around £40 and compared to its 30000mAh Chinese predecessor it totally kicks ass.
A expensive lesson learned here....

I've gone a slightly different route with my S5 and wife's N4. I have 3 batteries for each and an external charger for both types.
The spare batteries are standard capacity, but they're made by Anker.
Batteries get rotated so there's always a good battery in the phone, one that's charging and a fully charged one waiting for use.

keithross39 said:
I've gone a slightly different route with my S5 and wife's N4. I have 3 batteries for each and an external charger for both types.
The spare batteries are standard capacity, but they're made by Anker.
Batteries get rotated so there's always a good battery in the phone, one that's charging and a fully charged one waiting for use.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yeah the safe approach, I'm going down this route also, thanks for all your help

Yeah....It also minimises wear on the micro usb socket built into the phone...which is one big weak point on these devices.