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having trouble replacing touch matrix... need help, pictures included

so my touch matrix cracked, got a replacement on ebay that looks perfect. i got it to work but everytime a do, a few days later it stops working until i fix it again. i can't seem to figure out how the flexible PCB connects to the back of the LCD module. it looks like HTC just puts a piece of tape over it.
however, i noticed when taking off the old LCD touch matrix that there was some sort of possibly conductive adhesive that made it very difficult to pull off. i got it off but one of the contacts got stuck on there and it i had to scrape it off with a scalpel.
see picture below for exact details. if anyone has any experience in doing this and getting it to work, please let me know, it's so frustrating not having touch on this phone.
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I think you might need to have that professionally repaired. I used to refurbish phones for Motorola but I've never taken anything this advanced apart before. It sounds like you shouldn't have scraped off that conductive adhesive. The digitizer you bought should have been a relatively simple installation but you should have taken your time peeling off the old cracked digitizer. That adhesive is pretty strong and thats why they use it.
You might want to look into getting your hands on some of that adhesive and just replace it all. Sometimes the oils from your skin from handling such a sensitive ribbon cable could have damaged it as well.
P.S. Unfortunately, most of the people here are software genius's, not hardware experts unfortunately.

it's not too advanced. i figure if they at least offer the part as a replacement option on ebay it can't be too hard. and in the mass view, it's only 4 contacts and relatively easy to replace if you have a minor knowledge of electronics.
i keep taping it down firmly and even putting extra tape on top so that the pressure of the case will press down on the pcb to have a firmer connection.
note: i was very careful to observe ESD precautions, so that isn't it, plus there's no semiconductors that could be damaged in the touch matrix.

dudah85 said:
it's not too advanced. i figure if they at least offer the part as a replacement option on ebay it can't be too hard. and in the mass view, it's only 4 contacts and relatively easy to replace if you have a minor knowledge of electronics.
i keep taping it down firmly and even putting extra tape on top so that the pressure of the case will press down on the pcb to have a firmer connection.
note: i was very careful to observe ESD precautions, so that isn't it, plus there's no semiconductors that could be damaged in the touch matrix.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hmm... have you tried good old fashion superglue? I mean not neccesarily putting it on the end of the cable where the conductors are, but on the cable right near the conductors to keep it from moving around and then placing a few strips of tape to sandwich the cable with the housing pressing it down tight?

yes i have but i fear what happens if when pressing it down if it gets on the pads, then i'm just totally screwed. it's a tough situation, i wish there was a contact at HTC that could tell me how it's done.
i'm going to also try contacting their support/repair office and see if they can provide any insight.

dudah85 said:
yes i have but i fear what happens if when pressing it down if it gets on the pads, then i'm just totally screwed. it's a tough situation, i wish there was a contact at HTC that could tell me how it's done.
i'm going to also try contacting their support/repair office and see if they can provide any insight.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The superglue option is very risky but it could save your @$$ if you only put very little on the ribbon and then hold it in place untill it dries and then press down once the glue is already dry.
On another note, contacting their support office would probably be your best bet.
Everything you have done, even though not done wrong, it a far greater risk than I would have ever taken... I would have sent it in to be repaired of the digitizer had a crack in it or or the dot matrix got scratched. But thats me.
Unfortunately there aren't too many technicians here on this forum since it is almost completely firmware and not hardware here... Then again, there might be a few. Where I live it's kinda late at night so maybe they're sleeping or something. Lol.

i'm neither a hardware nor a software expertm but i may be able to help... i saw the manual somewhere... www.mdatweak.com/downloads/Wizard_Service_Manual.pdf... try that... maybe it'll help you...

Securing a PCB

I'm planning to make a controller this summer, but the PCB I'm using is a lot smaller than the case I need to use. How do I secure the PCB so it isn't flopping everywhere?

Me, I'd just use hot glue because I have a gun right here.

I have a hot glue gun, too; would that hold it down securely enough? It's a fightstick, it'll get bashed around a lot. A bit rough.

If the PCB has mounting holes you can use screws through the case, a standoff or spacer and a nut.
If you want, you can countersink the case for flat head screws.
If you don't want any holes in the case at all, you can use one of my new favorite pieces of hardware, a "round base T-nut".
Glue the base to the inside of the case with epoxy and mount the PCB with screws.
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No mounting holes in it, sadly. If it helps, it's a 360 controller mobo.
Sent from my ASUS Transformer Pad TF300T using XDA Premium HD app

obsidianchao said:
If it helps, it's a 360 controller mobo.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes, that does help.
I would buy some rubber grommets that fit the two holes on the pointy ends and the two slots at the top.
I'd glue in (4) 1/4-20 T-nuts, use a flat washer underneath and a bolt on top of the grommet.
Shock mount and everything.

Oh, wow, that's perfect. Thanks!
Sent from my ASUS Transformer Pad TF300T using XDA Premium HD app

Double sided Foam Tape, or even Better Servo Tape
Servo tape is used to hold Down Servos in RC Cars, Planes, helicopters etc.

You've got me thinking, obsidianchao.
I can get a wired Xbox 360 controller at Family Dollar for $11.
I'm not sure if they implement the whole deal, but 11 switch inputs, 2 joysticks,
a headset interface and a UART would be a great deal.
I'm sure that the switches and things are not the best quality, but I wouldn't be reusing them.
Hmm...

Hot glue
Hot glue is the best idea...

I agree with the above posts that suggest the screws in the pcb and then to the box. It is likely not entirely a feasible solution if you have a pcb without holes for starters. I have no idea what your project details are to know whether or not to suggest to you drilling or punching holes in yourself (if that is the route you choose to take for securing that is)
I am highly against hot glue just because it firstly gives and no offense to anyone or their suggestion, just a messy quick solution which I again not knowing what you are working on or how much neatness and whatever matters to you. I have a particular way with doing stuff as neat and clean as possible in regard to stuff like electronics work but that is just me and not trying to be rude but the main glaring issue I have with the hot glue idea is the potential for the heat from the glue or gun to alter or damage the project board like if you have things on the pcb that could be compromised by overheating and what not. Nevermind potentially damaging via warping the PCB itself which can cause a potential project-in-the-can situation if you get me... and if you choose to glob tons of the stuff on the bottom of your project or however and stick it in, sure it will be stuck to the project box but I would say have a DMM handi to check values of circuits or damage/warping unless this is really not that serious of a project for things like neatness to matter.
I have to say that the double sided tape is a nice middle of the road idea that does not really compromise anything unless it is placed over any components that can and do radiate heat like if it is a power supply style project or things that could cause a melting of tape in places and potential icky smells to emanate from the project box
Though I probably caused some more confusion with my excessive analysis of the main suggestions, I hope it helped shed a bit of light on the potential dangers or things to look out for with whatever methods as to not ruin your hard work or compromise it. Just sayin..:good: :laugh:

I ended up buying a controller. It was on sale for $6.60, an XBox wired controller.
Not being a gamer I hadn't realized that XBox came in two flavors.
I took out the original cord and put in a USB cord.
It appears as a 3 port hub, with a vendor specific on the first port.
The other two ports are the "memory modules" and I may wire up regular USB sockets to that.
I'll have to find a driver for it.

Will Defy still be water-proof without the usb cover?

Usb cover is loosing badly, it's so easy to open it
I searched this and found out that this is a common issue,
but I'm wondering if the phone will remain water-proof with this condition?
I found a defy tear down post in a China forum, in the post he mentioned: (see also the attach pic below)
Defy's usb connector is an isolated unit which is produced with a water-proof process,
so it is actually no problem with the cover opened in water.
The cover is just to prevent a short circuit when expose to water.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
http://bbs.gfan.com/android-287841-1-1.html
So now I'm totally confused.
Will Defy still be water-proof without the usb cover?
And, did anyone here tested your defy underwater with the cover opened?

I wouldn't really bet on it, mate If someone has tested the theory, though, please let us know what were the results

I don't think because the USB pins can be short circuited due to water
I don't want a Tapatalk sig!

it's logical ... but today I discovered little wet spot in usb connector ... but still works... :angel:
so we need some conformation about this ...:crying:

deffyplus said:
it's logical ... but today I discovered little wet spot in usb connector ... but still works... :angel:
so we need some conformation about this ...:crying:
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Ionize that water and put it in your USB
Lol don't do that!
I don't want a Tapatalk sig!

Unlikely!
I'd say without the cover the phone will very likely allow water in through the USB port - take a look at the charge socket and note the square holes on the left and right sides of the metal connector.... now take a look at a dismantled Defy and it clearly shows that through these holes water would then go onto the main PCB
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The short answer would be no.
It may still be fairly water resistant compared to other phones, but the cover is there for a reason.
Wouldn't go dunking it any time soon

No! It will not be waterproof w/o usb cover.

I appreciate the answers and opinions, and I would like this to grow into a larger debate ...
Again going back to the Chinese forum...There is a picture that explains why can not agree with that usb is not attached to matherboard...cover is all about mud, dust, serious conditions which may be subject to phone ...
p.s. It is my opinion...?? What do you think??

deffyplus said:
I appreciate the answers and opinions, and I would like this to grow into a larger debate ...
Again going back to the Chinese forum...There is a picture that explains why can not agree with that usb is not attached to matherboard...cover is all about mud, dust, serious conditions which may be subject to phone ...
p.s. It is my opinion...?? What do you think??
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Clearly the Chinese picture you show is different to the Defy 525 / Defy+526 which as my image shows has the USB port soldered directly to the circuit board. The socket looks like it's in the other side of the board as well.... the Defy we know has the socket to the right of the SIM as shown in my picture, your picture shows the socket directly next to the SIM socket. It would make sense to have a seperate USB port that plugs in because these sockets wear out and need replacing and a plug on socket is easy to replace whereas the soldered socket might even damage the circuit board if knocked hard.
So the answer is still that the version with directly soldered socket will let water inside the phone without a cover.... I have no idea about the version your picture shows... I suspect it would be much more water resistant as it'll be a solid block no doubt.

Defy isn't fully waterproof, it's rather water resistant. My friend killed his defy by testing this so beware, espesially without usb or microphone cover.

our zepagoal
not recommended without the plug! and i dont get why anyone would bother!

Modded my Note II to do wireless charging

Hi guys,
I just got done modding my Note 2 to do wireless charging and I'm extremely happy about it!
It is super easy and simple. Unscrew the back, solder copper tapes on the terminals that already exist.
It would have taken me 5 minutes if I had a good soldering iron... Mine sucked really bad (the tip wouldn't heat up right) so it took more like 10 minutes.
Here is a Youtube link to a nice tutorial: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rDSyjl_2CXo
Here is a cheap wireless tag + charger for Note 2 from China for $50. Took 2 weeks to get here. (Cheapest I could find for both coil and charger) It works great. Charging distance is 5mm and output is 1000mA. Not fast but good enough.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/170995097433?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649
When you get the wireless tag you just need to heat up the terminals and take them off. You can leave the terminals on, but it's pretty thick, adds about 1-2mm of thickness so you'll need to buy a bigger cover to use it without taking them off. Tutorial here: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=J5bnenaI86I&feature=youtu.be
The wireless tag adds very slight bulk, maybe a slight curve where it bulges out the most, but the regular backing will close and it's barely noticeable. Especially since I use my Note II in a case I won't ever see it. It may bug some people that don't use any case or cover.
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Here is my Note II charging.
I found that wireless charging on a flat surface was actually too big of a hassle... I had to position it right and trying to operate the phone while charging was difficult because it would slide off.
This was what I had in mind when I did the mod, to have it in a stand. I had a Belkin Flipblade stand, so I put the charging plate there and now all I need to do is slip the phone in it. (I had to attach some stuff in front to keep the Note from sliding off the stand as you can see)
I did this mod because I wanted to be able to sit in front of my desk, slip the phone on a stand which will automatically start charging, and listen to music through my Logitech speakers wirelessly. (Bluetooth audio receiver is on its way as I write...)
Charging plate
This notification pops up every time I put the Note on the charger. I'd like to get rid of this notification but I don't know how... No big deal, though.
Also another thing is, keeping the screen on while charging option doesn't work with wireless charging and this really bugs.. I guess I'll have to do some search to do this.
Anyway just wanted to show off..

looks great, i have the same charging pad, let me try diy a dock station with that like u!

Also I downloaded Tasker to keep screen on while charging. Works like a charm!
Sent from my SCH-I605 using xda premium

i couldn't figure out why you needed to mod it... then i saw that you had a Verizon phone in the pics... if i was you I would change the thread title to include VZW or something

bunnybash said:
i couldn't figure out why you needed to mod it... then i saw that you had a Verizon phone in the pics... if i was you I would change the thread title to include VZW or something
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I don't think any version of the phone has wireless charging without modding..
Sent from my GT-N7100 using Tapatalk 2

http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=1986016
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=1945582
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=2028631
Sent from my GT-N7100 using Tapatalk 2

bunnybash said:
i couldn't figure out why you needed to mod it... then i saw that you had a Verizon phone in the pics... if i was you I would change the thread title to include VZW or something
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You know what.. I thought I was posting a forum specific to Verizon Note II...

How long does it take to fully charge?

FPC Battery Connector for main logic board

Hi guys, is there anywhere I can get a fpc battery terminal for the logic board as per image attached? one of the brass prongs got caught in the battery and pinged off to my horror!
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Gutted is an understatement!

@turbotux If it's *just* the connector you want, and you're happy/able to solder it to the board, you can get it here.....
http://www.fonejoy.com/genuine-sams...edge-j1-j5-battery-connector-3711-008737.html
I personally wouldn't touch a hand soldering job like that, and I have been regularly using a soldering iron on all sorts of kit for over 20 years. The connectors are invariably microscopic and the potential to cause other, accidental damage is too high.
But if you want to try it....fair play and good luck (I think you'll need it).

Having actually had a 'close up' look at the connector, the solder points are bigger than I thought they would be (I've hand soldered smaller contacts). It would be possible to hand solder, but you'd need a *very* fine tipped soldering iron. And preferably one that produced a lower level of heat than a 'regular' soldering iron.

keithross39 said:
Having actually had a 'close up' look at the connector, the solder points are bigger than I thought they would be (I've hand soldered smaller contacts). It would be possible to hand solder, but you'd need a *very* fine tipped soldering iron. And preferably one that produced a lower level of heat than a 'regular' soldering iron.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thank you so much for the response, it appears the solder points are big enough, look it's broken each way so it's worth a try I guess.

turbotux said:
Thank you so much for the response, it appears the solder points are big enough, look it's broken each way so it's worth a try I guess.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yeah....you have a broken phone right now so why not try it? Just be *REAL* careful....There are a number of surface mounted components in close proximity to your work area....
Damaging them through accidental contact with the soldering iron (or even simple heat transfer along the board) is a BIG possibility....
---------- Post added at 04:40 PM ---------- Previous post was at 04:31 PM ----------
One final bit of advice (though you probably already know this) 'tin' or coat the solder points on the new part before going near the board. It'll help minimise the length of time the iron is in contact with the board.

I have a soldering iron with a 'home modified' reversable tip. You can see in the picture, at one end is the standard 4mm tip while at the other is a 1mm tip that tapers down to practically a needle point. This is the end that sees the most use, and it is that size of tip that you're going to need.

Just to update, I managed to solder it and it still did not work unfortunely so I've bought another n910f handset, these things happen. However the cause of this I think is down to the extended battery I had pulling on the whole module, I'm going to be running the stock batteries I have from now on.
A worthy purchase however is the extended battery I've picked up for those long cycle rides which should easily see me through, for interest its a 14000mAh Logic3 which I picked up from Maplin for around £40 and compared to its 30000mAh Chinese predecessor it totally kicks ass.
A expensive lesson learned here....

I've gone a slightly different route with my S5 and wife's N4. I have 3 batteries for each and an external charger for both types.
The spare batteries are standard capacity, but they're made by Anker.
Batteries get rotated so there's always a good battery in the phone, one that's charging and a fully charged one waiting for use.

keithross39 said:
I've gone a slightly different route with my S5 and wife's N4. I have 3 batteries for each and an external charger for both types.
The spare batteries are standard capacity, but they're made by Anker.
Batteries get rotated so there's always a good battery in the phone, one that's charging and a fully charged one waiting for use.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yeah the safe approach, I'm going down this route also, thanks for all your help

Yeah....It also minimises wear on the micro usb socket built into the phone...which is one big weak point on these devices.