Half the of the metal tip on my charger broke off inside my tablets charge port is there any way to pry it open and push it out
You might try a rare-earth magnet, or similar. Or a pair of fine needle-nose pliers. That failing, is it still under warranty or did you buy it with a CC that has an extended-warranty service?
That's rough! :-(
Dkj7777 said:
Half the of the metal tip on my charger broke off inside my tablets charge port is there any way to pry it open and push it out
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The same thing happened to me, the charger is a cruel joke. Flimsy tip and the cable is way too short. I was able to fish it out with a needle or screwdriver or something, I can't remember what. I then glued it back on with super glue and it's been perfect ever since
Not sure what this has to do with Android development by the way.
jm77 said:
You might try a rare-earth magnet, or similar. Or a pair of fine needle-nose pliers. That failing, is it still under warranty or did you buy it with a CC that has an extended-warranty service?
That's rough! :-(
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I bought it at staples like 3 weeks ago I asked Acer they said I was still under a warranty
chr0m said:
The same thing happened to me, the charger is a cruel joke. Flimsy tip and the cable is way too short. I was able to fish it out with a needle or screwdriver or something, I can't remember what. I then glued it back on with super glue and it's been perfect ever since
Not sure what this has to do with Android development by the way.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I just pulled the half a charger out of the port and the other piece came out with it
Hey everyone my HTC HD2 got the Non-Responsive screen problem a week ago, & did a lot of research and found out that it was most likely a hardware problem with a cable..... So a lot of people would tell the people with the problem that the "Touch Screen Digitizer" is dead (like the cable), or it needs to be cleaned... pretty well go out and buy a new one... BUT I have never found evidence that someone has done this and it has successfully "cured" their HTC HD2 Non-Responsive touch screen problem...
So I was looking for anyone on the forums that could confirm this is a solution or give me any tips on what I should do.... AND no I don't have enough money to get a new phone, nor do I live in the USA so I can't send it in to fix it...
This is what I was going to buy for it:
http://www.ebay.ca/itm/NEW-OEM-HTC-...781?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item519a3d2e45
Thanks for taking the time to read my Thread, its much appreciated!! I hope I can find a fix!!
PS: If anyone wanted to know what it looks like out of curiosity I posted 3 pictures with RED circle HIGHLIGHTING the problem when I try to touch something....
My digitizer has been a bit dodgy for the past few months. It's ironic that when I finally found out what the issue was and called HTC, my factory warranty had ended exactly 4 days prior to the call.
Fast forward 3 months and my phone has now been unresponsive for 3 hours despite my prying and tweaking various hard parts.
I disassembled the phone down to the main board just to see how hard the install is, but it's a bit intimidating once it's time to start pulling all the film and ribbons. A bit too tight and small parts for my liking.
Time to hit CL to see if I can find a cheap replacement.
Good luck with your repairs. I may be following in your footsteps if I can not find a good deal.
Yeah I will see how well it goes... if anyone has useful info, i will be more than grad to hear it
Thanks
Many people attempt to replace a digitizer, but I simply don't recommend it, we see enough of do-it-yourselvers who created problems in addition to the original ones.
What I do recommend, however, and I stated it on many threads already, is to get an LCD+DIGITIZER assembly. Simply because it is easier to fit. Not saying the overall fitting is easy, always depends on your overall skill, so ensure that you are familiar with the procedure BEFORE you begin. But you will save yourself a lot of trouble by getting the whole thing, as opposed to the digitizer only for the sake of a few bucks.
However, if anyone still feels intimidated by the whole thing, I am on the lookout for working main board. Advertised a few times in the marketplace with limited success. So if anyone smashed their baby and will be looking to replace, rather than repair - drop me a PM. I am in NZ. Will pay by Paypal.
Mm i've replaced my HD2 screen just last night. Trust me it's among the most complex phones around.
Unless you've done a few phones before i wouldn't advice you DIY. Otherwise you can look carefully at the Leo Ds. and Leo As. guides on youtube. those helped me!
Mm i killed my LCD in the process of removing the digitizer as it's stupidly glued on to each other and the LCD glass is thin as hell.
Get the set, it'll save you your time
Mm i got mine of ebay, from the seller goodgoodsecho. It works perfectly well for me!
All the best!
cheeselump said:
Mm i've replaced my HD2 screen just last night. Trust me it's among the most complex phones around.
Unless you've done a few phones before i wouldn't advice you DIY. Otherwise you can look carefully at the Leo Ds. and Leo As. guides on youtube. those helped me!
Mm i killed my LCD in the process of removing the digitizer as it's stupidly glued on to each other and the LCD glass is thin as hell.
Get the set, it'll save you your time
Mm i got mine of ebay, from the seller goodgoodsecho. It works perfectly well for me!
All the best!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
How much did the set cost?
cheeselump said:
Mm i've replaced my HD2 screen just last night. Trust me it's among the most complex phones around.
Unless you've done a few phones before i wouldn't advice you DIY. Otherwise you can look carefully at the Leo Ds. and Leo As. guides on youtube. those helped me!
Mm i killed my LCD in the process of removing the digitizer as it's stupidly glued on to each other and the LCD glass is thin as hell.
Get the set, it'll save you your time
Mm i got mine of ebay, from the seller goodgoodsecho. It works perfectly well for me!
All the best!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks I will check it out, hopefully it won't be to hard and I hope I can repair it!! oh and could you post a link of the youtube & manual you used to replace your screen?? Thanks
Oh would anyone suggest then just calling HTC and sending it to them to repair?? or does that cost to much??
Thanks everyone for the help
One word of advice I have, is just remove the LCD/digitizer module assembly and don't remove anything else.
I have no idea why these videos and manuals have you pulling circuit boards, flex cables, and disconnecting stuff just to remove the LCD module. All you really have to do after removing the rear housing is to cut through the double-sided tape holding the LCD module to the main frame, being careful to know where the flex is and not to go too deep there. I used a credit card for that, but anything similarly flat and thin should do.
GnatGoSplat said:
One word of advice I have, is just remove the LCD/digitizer module assembly and don't remove anything else.
I have no idea why these videos and manuals have you pulling circuit boards, flex cables, and disconnecting stuff just to remove the LCD module. All you really have to do after removing the rear housing is to cut through the double-sided tape holding the LCD module to the main frame, being careful to know where the flex is and not to go too deep there. I used a credit card for that, but anything similarly flat and thin should do.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yah I was looking at the video's and they were taking off EVERYTHING... it looks really hard to do.. I don't know whether I want to do it anymore.....
oh and are you talking about the digitizer itself or the LCD+digitizer for your method?
Thanks
Heronization said:
Yah I was looking at the video's and they were taking off EVERYTHING... it looks really hard to do.. I don't know whether I want to do it anymore.....
oh and are you talking about the digitizer itself or the LCD+digitizer for your method?
Thanks
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yep, there is absolutely no reason to take off everything like some people seem to think is necessary.
The way I'm talking about requires removing LCD+digitizer. In fact, I think you'll always have to remove both because the connector for the digitizer is under the LCD. Anyway, the way I did it, I went from removing the the phone insides from the rear housing straight to separating the LCD+digitizer assembly from the frame. No removal of any boards or flex cables. The only cable to be disconnected is the LCD+digitizer assembly one. Getting it disconnected and reconnected does require unplugging the front button flex and removing the screws for the bottom logic board to loosen it, but that's all.
GnatGoSplat said:
Yep, there is absolutely no reason to take off everything like some people seem to think is necessary.
The way I'm talking about requires removing LCD+digitizer. In fact, I think you'll always have to remove both because the connector for the digitizer is under the LCD. Anyway, the way I did it, I went from removing the the phone insides from the rear housing straight to separating the LCD+digitizer assembly from the frame. No removal of any boards or flex cables. The only cable to be disconnected is the LCD+digitizer assembly one. Getting it disconnected and reconnected does require unplugging the front button flex and removing the screws for the bottom logic board to loosen it, but that's all.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Wow that sounds pretty simple! and for you it all works perfectly now?? no calibration needed or problems?? Maybe I will try it after all..... but what screw drivers to I need to dissemble it?? the screws look different from normal..
Heronization said:
Wow that sounds pretty simple! and for you it all works perfectly now?? no calibration needed or problems?? Maybe I will try it after all..... but what screw drivers to I need to dissemble it?? the screws look different from normal..
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Well, it's not that simple because simply getting the HD2 insides out of the rear housing is difficult if you've never done it before. I believe the screwdriver you need is a Torx T-5. Once you get the screws out, you will need a plastic opening tool to go between the digitizer and rear housing frame. They look like this:
http://www.ifixit.com/Tools/Plastic-Opening-Tools/IF145-000
I found it comes out much easier if I use the tool to make a gap along the top edge and then slide the entire end of a scrap credit card into that gap, then that makes the whole assembly easier to pry out along the sides with the tool. I know on one of the vids, the guy takes forever doing this part and I can understand why, but once I figured out sliding a credit card into the top gap as far as it would go, I was able to get it apart much easier.
I can't answer whether the phone will work properly, because I just ordered the new digitizer over the weekend and haven't put it back together. I did remove the LCD+digitizer assembly and then re-connected it and put it back, then powered on the phone just to make sure pulling the LCD didn't hurt it - it didn't, everything worked as well as it did before. I did manage to crack the digitizer more when I tried to get the insides out of the rear housing before I figured out the credit card trick, so fortunately I was not trying to save my digitizer as it was already cracked. If you are just wanting to try to clean or fiddle with the connection, then you're going to have to be a LOT more careful than I was because it was all too easy to crack the digitizer!
I'm guessing yours probably needs replacement though. I sent my HTC Surround in for a funny acting digitizer, and the digitizer was replaced.
Oh, and if I would have bought an LCD+digitizer pre-assembled unit, that would have been super easy to replace. However, I opted to save $50+ by buying just the digitizer. Not too sure how I'm going to prevent dust getting in it, and I've read thickness of the adhesive is critical. I may regret it later!
GnatGoSplat said:
Well, it's not that simple because simply getting the HD2 insides out of the rear housing is difficult if you've never done it before. I believe the screwdriver you need is a Torx T-5. Once you get the screws out, you will need a plastic opening tool to go between the digitizer and rear housing frame. They look like this:
http://www.ifixit.com/Tools/Plastic-Opening-Tools/IF145-000
I found it comes out much easier if I use the tool to make a gap along the top edge and then slide the entire end of a scrap credit card into that gap, then that makes the whole assembly easier to pry out along the sides with the tool. I know on one of the vids, the guy takes forever doing this part and I can understand why, but once I figured out sliding a credit card into the top gap as far as it would go, I was able to get it apart much easier.
I can't answer whether the phone will work properly, because I just ordered the new digitizer over the weekend and haven't put it back together. I did remove the LCD+digitizer assembly and then re-connected it and put it back, then powered on the phone just to make sure pulling the LCD didn't hurt it - it didn't, everything worked as well as it did before. I did manage to crack the digitizer more when I tried to get the insides out of the rear housing before I figured out the credit card trick, so fortunately I was not trying to save my digitizer as it was already cracked. If you are just wanting to try to clean or fiddle with the connection, then you're going to have to be a LOT more careful than I was because it was all too easy to crack the digitizer!
I'm guessing yours probably needs replacement though. I sent my HTC Surround in for a funny acting digitizer, and the digitizer was replaced.
Oh, and if I would have bought an LCD+digitizer pre-assembled unit, that would have been super easy to replace. However, I opted to save $50+ by buying just the digitizer. Not too sure how I'm going to prevent dust getting in it, and I've read thickness of the adhesive is critical. I may regret it later!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Ok thanks I think thats what I am going to do, first dissemble it then try to move the cable around because, just yesterday it started to work again and then today it isn't working. I will contact you if I have a problem or get stuck, if that is ok with you
Thanks a lot
Heronization said:
Ok thanks I think thats what I am going to do, first dissemble it then try to move the cable around because, just yesterday it started to work again and then today it isn't working. I will contact you if I have a problem or get stuck, if that is ok with you
Thanks a lot
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yeah, no prob. I can post a pic of the digitizer lifted from the frame which shows where the adhesive tapes are that you have to go through, if it would help.
GnatGoSplat said:
One word of advice I have, is just remove the LCD/digitizer module assembly and don't remove anything else.
I have no idea why these videos and manuals have you pulling circuit boards, flex cables, and disconnecting stuff just to remove the LCD module. All you really have to do after removing the rear housing is to cut through the double-sided tape holding the LCD module to the main frame, being careful to know where the flex is and not to go too deep there. I used a credit card for that, but anything similarly flat and thin should do.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hey lolz I need your help already, I just took off the back housing and now Im lost on what to do... It looks to me as if you do have to remove the cables from the motherboard to get to it?? and what is the double sided tape? and isn't everything connected to the lcd?? lolz this is my first time doing any phone disassemble.. Thanks
added a picture of what I was thinking of doing... or am I doing this all wrong... because you did say we don't need to remove any flex cable or wires and stuff
Thanks!!
Heronization said:
Hey lolz I need your help already, I just took off the back housing and now Im lost on what to do... It looks to me as if you do have to remove the cables from the motherboard to get to it?? and what is the double sided tape? and isn't everything connected to the lcd?? lolz this is my first time doing any phone disassemble.. Thanks
added a picture of what I was thinking of doing... or am I doing this all wrong... because you did say we don't need to remove any flex cable or wires and stuff
Thanks!!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Nope, I didn't disconnect anything except the circled connector on the far right of your picture. You will need to do that to remove the LCD flex cable from the logic board.
I've attached a pic of the LCD module loosened from the frame. What you do is use something thin and flat to separate the adhesive tape holding the LCD to the frame. You will need to lift some of that black fabric tape on the edge to see where the LCD module meets the frame. Near the top, you will probably have to slide your separating tool all the way through to separate the tape (I used a scrap credit card). Avoid the area where the LCD flex cable is, because you could damage it! It's on the lower right of the LCD if you are looking from the front. When the LCD is loose, lift up from left to right (when LCD is facing you), pretending that there is a hinge on the right side. This is because you don't want to put any force on the LCD flex.
Once you've got your phone looking like my picture, you can remove the "captain" (orange tape), unlatch the LCD flex from the top, remove the button flex from its connector, then loosen the bottom logic board from the frame just enough to pull the flex out of the connector.
I hope that makes sense! It probably helps to know that a very strong double-sided sticky tape is all that holds the LCD+digitizer assembly to the frame, and there is only one flex cable connecting LCD+digitizer assembly to the rest of the phone.
GnatGoSplat said:
Nope, I didn't disconnect anything except the circled connector on the far right of your picture. You will need to do that to remove the LCD flex cable from the logic board.
I've attached a pic of the LCD module loosened from the frame. What you do is use something thin and flat to separate the adhesive tape holding the LCD to the frame. You will need to lift some of that black fabric tape on the edge to see where the LCD module meets the frame. Near the top, you will probably have to slide your separating tool all the way through to separate the tape (I used a scrap credit card). Avoid the area where the LCD flex cable is, because you could damage it! It's on the lower right of the LCD if you are looking from the front. When the LCD is loose, lift up from left to right (when LCD is facing you), pretending that there is a hinge on the right side. This is because you don't want to put any force on the LCD flex.
Once you've got your phone looking like my picture, you can remove the "captain" (orange tape), unlatch the LCD flex from the top, remove the button flex from its connector, then loosen the bottom logic board from the frame just enough to pull the flex out of the connector.
I hope that makes sense! It probably helps to know that a very strong double-sided sticky tape is all that holds the LCD+digitizer assembly to the frame, and there is only one flex cable connecting LCD+digitizer assembly to the rest of the phone.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Awesome I will try it now, I do need to heat the screen some for the tape to get sticky so I can pry it off right?? and I am guessing once you have removed that tape you can't "just stick it back on together and it will work right?? right??
Heronization said:
Awesome I will try it now, I do need to heat the screen some for the tape to get sticky so I can pry it off right?? and I am guessing once you have removed that tape you can't "just stick it back on together and it will work right?? right??
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You could try heating; I didn't, but maybe it will come apart easier if you do. In the HTC factory service video, they mentioned putting the whole phone into the oven to loosen the tape. I didn't know if it would be a good idea to do that complete with all the circuit boards or not.
No, without heat, the tape is definitely ruined and I will need to replace it. I was planning to use some leftover tape I have from fixing iPhone digitizers so I didn't even attempt to salvage the existing tape. Not sure if it's even possible to salvage that tape considering you need to stick some kind of tool in there to separate it.
GnatGoSplat said:
You could try heating; I didn't, but maybe it will come apart easier if you do. In the HTC factory service video, they mentioned putting the whole phone into the oven to loosen the tape. I didn't know if it would be a good idea to do that complete with all the circuit boards or not.
No, without heat, the tape is definitely ruined and I will need to replace it. I was planning to use some leftover tape I have from fixing iPhone digitizers so I didn't even attempt to salvage the existing tape. Not sure if it's even possible to salvage that tape considering you need to stick some kind of tool in there to separate it.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Alright thanks I have to go and don't know when I'll be back, but I will try it tonight and hopefully I don't break anything...
Thanks for the help!
Hey guys,
Just got a HTC espresso off my mate. Anyway he said it had problems (lc not working and digitiser not working) So I was just wondering is anyone else having the same possible hardware issue. And if you have fixed it how did you?
Thanks
Sent from my HTC Sensation using XDA
LMAO. Happy "first post"
Anyway, you'll require a new LCD Flex and possibly a new motherboard connector. Buy a T5 and have a look inside; see what's wrong.
Just to let you know, if it operates, it doesn't have a fully damaged LCD/Digitizer...
Sent from my iPhone 3GS via Tapatalk
Thanks man. When I get the screw driver do you think you'd be able to give me a hand in showing what I need to do?
Sent from my HTC Sensation using XDA
technotram91 said:
Thanks man. When I get the screw driver do you think you'd be able to give me a hand in showing what I need to do?
Sent from my HTC Sensation using XDA
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It's easy enough. Pop the battery out, unscrew 3-4 T5 screws and lift the housing off, and work from there.
Sent from the hatred of all; iPhone 3GS, via Tapatalk
Thanks man ill let you know if I need more help
Sent from my HTC Sensation using XDA
No problems.
Sent from the hatred of all; iPhone 3GS, via Tapatalk
I've had similar issues - phone worked with black screen. I've bought a spare flex ribbon cable on the eBay.
You'll need to remove the back cover, battery, memory card. Then unscrew 4 T and 2 phillips (+) screws. Use plastic card and a usual (-) screwdriver to detach back frame and you'll see the mainboard. Remove it and you'll see 8 philips screws that holds both sliding parts together. Unscrew them and detach the front half with the screen. Then remove 2 plastic patches from the sides of it - you'll see 4 more screws that hold the front part. Unscrew them and carefully pop the parts with a plastic cards. That's basically all. Then you'll be able to connect the new cable and put all the things together in reverse order.
Saem persun said:
I've had similar issues - phone worked with black screen. I've bought a spare flex ribbon cable on the eBay.
You'll need to remove the back cover, battery, memory card. Then unscrew 4 T and 2 phillips (+) screws. Use plastic card and a usual (-) screwdriver to detach back frame and you'll see the mainboard. Remove it and you'll see 8 philips screws that holds both sliding parts together. Unscrew them and detach the front half with the screen. Then remove 2 plastic patches from the sides of it - you'll see 4 more screws that hold the front part. Unscrew them and carefully pop the parts with a plastic cards. That's basically all. Then you'll be able to connect the new cable and put all the things together in reverse order.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I know I'm popping in techno's place, but how much did the cable cost?
Also, we met up the other day (he's local) and found the volume buttons and the touchscreen itself didn't work. What will we need? So far I've got:
•Torx T5 Screwdriver
•Phillips Head Screwdriver
•Flathead Screedriver
•A Fully **** MyTouch 3G Slide
Sent from the hatred of all; iPhone 3GS, via Tapatalk
CJJames said:
I know I'm popping in techno's place, but how much did the cable cost?
Also, we met up the other day (he's local) and found the volume buttons and the touchscreen itself didn't work. What will we need? So far I've got:
•Torx T5 Screwdriver
•Phillips Head Screwdriver
•Flathead Screedriver
•A Fully **** MyTouch 3G Slide
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The cable was $10 plus free shipping from HK. There's a lot of them there available (just "put flex ribbon cable mytouch 3g slide" to the search - I don't have 10 posts yet so I can't make a direct link).
The volume keys contacts are attached to the mainboard with a small flex cable, which you don't really need to detach. Everything you'll need is just to put them into the place under the rocker button when assemblying, and if they are not broken they should work. If someone ever opened your phone, he could forget/missed this operation and probably that's why they are not working.
About the tools: it would be nice if you have screwdrivers of different size. Although I didn't have a torx screwdriver and managed to fix the phone using a flathead screwdriver of corresponding size.
One more thing: the cable has a metal plate. It has the light sensor and green/red LED and goes to the top of the front plate. You'll also need to put a small rubber spacer from the old cable to the new one.
In general it wasn't a complicated procedure - just be careful, don't shuffle different screws together and you'll succeed
Saem persun said:
The cable was $10 plus free shipping from HK. There's a lot of them there available (just "put flex ribbon cable mytouch 3g slide" to the search - I don't have 10 posts yet so I can't make a direct link).
The volume keys contacts are attached to the mainboard with a small flex cable, which you don't really need to detach. Everything you'll need is just to put them into the place under the rocker button when assemblying, and if they are not broken they should work. If someone ever opened your phone, he could forget/missed this operation and probably that's why they are not working.
About the tools: it would be nice if you have screwdrivers of different size. Although I didn't have a torx screwdriver and managed to fix the phone using a flathead screwdriver of corresponding size.
One more thing: the cable has a metal plate. It has the light sensor and green/red LED and goes to the top of the front plate. You'll also need to put a small rubber spacer from the old cable to the new one.
In general it wasn't a complicated procedure - just be careful, don't shuffle different screws together and you'll succeed
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Alright mad
Thanks a ****load for your help haven't fixed a phone since my HD2 haha. Slide phones tend to be assholes.
The previous owner, [i{Looking4Trouble[/i], said he had opened the phone once before he shipped to technotram91, and yeah I was the middleman lol.
Off to the fleabay it is
Sent from the hatred of all; iPhone 3GS, via Tapatalk
Hope that this information will be helpful in such cases: I've found some repair guides with pics and videos:
HTC T-Mobile MyTouch 3G Slide Disassembly Repair Guide
HTC MyTouch 3G Slide Speaker Replacement Guide
I replaced the LCD Screen and Digitize and still have a blank screen, the phone turns on, I get the TMO Jingle, the back light works on the keyboard and home keys, and I get a flashing green LED at the top. So could the ribbon cable be bad?? or is there anything else I can do first before buying the cable.
Any and all information will be greatly appreciated.
Hey guys
Like many others my usb gone bust and my advent tn7 just became useless. Ive went to curries and explained about how this is a common issue but they dismissed it saying a broken charger port is my fault. I have searched several forms but still havent found any way of fixing it. Does anyone know how to get my tab to charge? Ive tried opening the tab but one side of it doesnt seem to come off. What are my options if any? Any help will be greatly appreciated. Thanks.
Abdur Desai said:
Hey guys
Like many others my usb gone bust and my advent tn7 just became useless. Ive went to curries and explained about how this is a common issue but they dismissed it saying a broken charger port is my fault. I have searched several forms but still havent found any way of fixing it. Does anyone know how to get my tab to charge? Ive tried opening the tab but one side of it doesnt seem to come off. What are my options if any? Any help will be greatly appreciated. Thanks.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The best option would be to take it to a repair shop... it might cost you $50, but hopefully they can replace it with the right USB port (the one Nvidia used is slightly different from most micro-USB ports you see on devices, so it's not a very snug fit, hence the problem.)
I have the evga tn7 that i bought from newegg. Would they still honor my warrenty on the broken charging port even though I have my bootloader unlocked?
jon7701, I was thinking the same thing. I bought mine a couple of months ago and the charging port is being a little finicky.
share_needles said:
jon7701, I was thinking the same thing. I bought mine a couple of months ago and the charging port is being a little finicky.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Mine has to be plugged in a certain way or it refuses to charge outright. Even when I have it in the proper way it might not charge at all but reports its charging. The strange thing is that it can still detect what type of charging method (usb or AC) im using even though it wont charge.
I was able to fix my EVGA Tegra Note 7 usb connector using a re-flow soldering station (the type that uses hot air to melt solder), and it only took about 30 minutes. If you know an electrical engineer or serious electrical design enthusiast, they may have one. The problem is caused from the solder joints on the usb connector breaking. All I had to do is re-melt the solder and the problem was fixed. You cannot use a normal soldering iron because there are other components in the way. This happens on the Tegra Note because Nvidia specified a Micro-ab type connector instead of the Micro-b connector that most phones have. This allows accidental upside down insertion to damage the connector.
All you have to do is snap the plastic case apart, carefully remove the small circuit board that has the usb connector. The solder joint appears solid, but I was able to see the crack with a microscope and a trained eye. Use hot air to melt the solder, and resemble. Now I am just careful to plug the cable in right side up. If it breaks again, I am replacing it with a Micro-b connector.
I like having a re-flow soldering station. Every hacker should have one for replacing surface mount components and more extreme hacks (like upgrading internal flash, etc.).
sorry for necroing this post but i'm having the same issue. i've thought the same as you of replacing the port with a micro b. i have only one question: is there any problem with replacing it with a micro b? or no problem at all
Digging up this old thread to post link to UK service for Nvidia Tegra Note 7 Micro USB Charging Port Repair Service,
Here:- http://www.mobiledeviceworkshop.co....o-usb-charging-port-repair-service-3080-p.asp
Charge of £29.00 all inclusive of return delivery (+£5.00 for next day delivery)..
EDIT: Think this is same part for Nvidia Tegra note 7 (ebay, £1.29).
New HP SLATE 7 HD Replacement Micro USB DC Charging Socket Port Connector
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/New-HP-SL...cab7f36&pid=100005&rk=6&rkt=6&sd=131877863523
EDIT: Some spare parts, Cherry Mobile Tegra Note 7 Spare Parts & Accessories
(Indian version Tegra note 7, presumably mostly same as Advent, but seems to have built-in internet, prices in Rupees)
https://www.maxbhi.com/cherry-mobile-tegra-note-7-spare-parts-and-accessories.html
Thanks
ad1876 said:
I was able to fix my EVGA Tegra Note 7 usb connector using a re-flow soldering station (the type that uses hot air to melt solder), and it only took about 30 minutes. If you know an electrical engineer or serious electrical design enthusiast, they may have one. The problem is caused from the solder joints on the usb connector breaking. All I had to do is re-melt the solder and the problem was fixed. You cannot use a normal soldering iron because there are other components in the way. This happens on the Tegra Note because Nvidia specified a Micro-ab type connector instead of the Micro-b connector that most phones have. This allows accidental upside down insertion to damage the connector.
All you have to do is snap the plastic case apart, carefully remove the small circuit board that has the usb connector. The solder joint appears solid, but I was able to see the crack with a microscope and a trained eye. Use hot air to melt the solder, and resemble. Now I am just careful to plug the cable in right side up. If it breaks again, I am replacing it with a Micro-b connector.
I like having a re-flow soldering station. Every hacker should have one for replacing surface mount components and more extreme hacks (like upgrading internal flash, etc.).
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks a lot for your correct advise.
I had a long battle getting my Xolo Tegra Note fixed in Pune.
Xolo service center people told me that because I have down graded my tablet to KitKat, now motherboard is gone. After that I went to local mobile repair shop, he told me it's very difficult fix this as the joint are very small and soldering can damage other things as well.
After visiting a few repair shop in Pimpri market, I found a guy who did it. I found the same issue of minor crack which he found using multiple magnifying glasses.
It's better to visit a good repair shop not a small one as the issue won't be visible without magnifying glasses.
Let me know if anyone wants to get it fixed in India, Pune. I will share the mobile shop address.