Hi, my sister's power button for her droid x doesnt click. Is it possible there is a part missing, or broke? Can this be replaced without replacing the digitizer?
A high quality photo of this assembly would be nice
thanks!
I had this power button problem with a couple of Droid X devices. First you have to take apart your Droid X. Do a search on this forum for "Motorola Droid X Take Apart Repair Guide" to learn how to disassemble your Droid X. After that at the top of your Droid X insides is a L shaped bracket that holds the power button switch. You need to carefully to bend that bracket back where it belongs (towards the top. should be straight L shaped). Then assemble your Droid X back together. Make sure you get the battery pullout strip out of the way of the back cover when assembling your Droid X.
Note - Do this at your own risk of your device. Results may vary, especially with the experience or lack of the person doing the job.
I wouldn't take the device apart at all. There are a couple of apps you can use which require root to use a virtual button like button savior and quickboot
Motorola Droid X Take Apart Repair Guide
and Motorola Droid X Motherboard Flex Cable Replacement
may be found cheaper on ebay
I would try to position the L shaped bracket, that holds the power button switch, back up first before replacing the ribbon. This is where I found the problem to be most of the time. Just saying that is my experience and can save you money and time. But if positioning the L shaped bracket, that holds the power button switch, back up doesn't work then go for the ribbon.
The problem is mainly caused by pushing and holding down the power button so many times or dropped that the L shaped bracket gets bend back a little too far. This bending the L shaped bracket back up would solve the problem. You have to correctly troubleshoot to find the problem, how the problem became to being, and then you can come up with a solution. Just replacing a part that doesn't need to be replaced is not being a good technician.
Related
I tried to replace my vogue after the screen cracked and power button broke, but Sprint/Asurion want $100 to replace it. Turns out it was only the digitizer that cracked so I'm trying to fix the power button myself, then simply replace the digitizer for ~$10.
My problem is that the power button completely broke off from the mainboard. I tried to solder it back on without a result, and I'm wondering if I'm missing a step. The board has 5 separate solder points, but it looks like only 3 are actually making a connection to the button (so I soldered only those). From the looks of the soft reset button, it seems that the two other solder points don't actually bridge any connections, but are touching the underside of the button where it's not metallic.
Obviously I'm missing something here, anyone have a clue?
hate to say it but id just pay the $100 for a refurbish or id look on craigslist or ebay for a replacement.
All you need to do is solder those three solder points. make sure you are using flux so it flows well and keep it straight. I had an issue after I put the case back on and the button on the case not lining up with the switch. Make sure you try to power the phone on before you put the case back on. I would leave the digitizer plugged in just in case.
Using the simple diagram below, soldering the 1-2-4 points didn't make it work. I was able to mimic the button by bridging the 1or2or4 with the 3or5.
1___2
3_4_5
Not sure what else I can do at this point beyond putting in a small momentary button that makes one of these connections, it will make the device look incredibly ghetto though
it is possible when it broke off it took one of the solder pads with it, after you take the button off see if all the connection points are still silverish in color if any are tan unfortunately you will have to go through asurion, there is no way i know of restoring them after that point
It was the second time replacing the housing on my Touch. I was a bit careless when putting it back together. I broke the slider button on the side. Can anybody tell me where I can get a replacement??
You try ebay? I found my speaker on ebay and it was only $5.50+free shipping straight from China. It took 9 days for delivery
Did you break the slider, or the physical button assembly on the PCB?
My camera button housing broke (not the button itself), so I had to open my Vogue, tear it out, and now I have to press a tiny phillip's screwdriver against two contacts to get my phone to boot to the bootloader.
Hopefully you haven't wrecked the PCB and can find a suitable replacement.
Shidell said:
Did you break the slider, or the physical button assembly on the PCB?
My camera button housing broke (not the button itself), so I had to open my Vogue, tear it out, and now I have to press a tiny phillip's screwdriver against two contacts to get my phone to boot to the bootloader.
Hopefully you haven't wrecked the PCB and can find a suitable replacement.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
i just ordered a new housing for my vogue if you need any part of my old one we can arrange that. pm me
Hey anyone already opened up their HD2? I need to open mine since my back button got stuck while my baby girl tried to press too hard on it. Now the back button feels like it's not presing at all compared to the other buttons.
i also have a spare housing that I am thinking of putting in.
Anyone can point me to the right direction?
Thanks
i've had the back off mine.
first search youtube for leo disassembly and you'll find an htc disassembly video: "leo Ds" (and another "leo As" for reassembly). they are somewhat daunting, but do not despair!
mine came back from a htc warranty service with a fingerprint on the inside of the lens glass and i couldn't be bothered sending it back again for cleaning so i did it myself. cracking the case isn't all that easy, or wasn't for me.
after you remove the 4 screws (get the void sticker and moisture indicator out with a pin), you still have to unclip the back from the chassis. WHY do electronics manufacturers design them like that??! in the video the tech uses a plastic hooked tool which i do not possess so i had to rely on my fingernails -- which i nearly pulled out! i tried for a good 15 minutes before it finally separated (with me sweating all the way that i was going to damage the LCD with the force i was having to apply). but it all finished happily in the end.
good luck with yours!
Not sure if it's worth it.
1st things 1st, watch the video on youtube..
.
Assuming u broke the keypad (just like me, but mine is right in the middle) at about the 6th minute of the disassembly video, they'll show u where u'd be replacing the keypad.
Removing the 'lcm and follow the indicator' isnt as simple as it look. you'd find the glue to be really tough. Putting it in an oven, sure, it'd be hot to the touch, and let it cool down a bit it'd be hard again. Hairdryer? Still too hot. Gloves?u'll lose touch sesitivity. So what i did was use a small blade/box cutter and cut which ever visible glue... and assembling, i had to replace all the double sided tape with some cheap ones...weak ones. Could be a good thing.. or a bad thing. Good, cos i know i dont have to wrestle with some really tough glue..in case i ruined my lcd again.... bad.. cos its..not that secure, i rmember that i nearly ripped it open unintentionally!
Neway replacing my digitizer+lcd took about 3 hours...had a couple of breaks, and spent 15 mins looking for the proximity sensor or was it the ambient light sense 'lense'..very tiny things those things are. So be careful...cos i eventually lost it..grrr
Anyway, Best of luck.. .now to find a replacement keypad that cost less than 5usd..hehe
dsx2b said:
1st things 1st, watch the video on youtube..
spent 15 mins looking for the proximity sensor or was it the ambient light sense 'lense'..very tiny things those things are. So be careful...cos i eventually lost it..grrr5usd..hehe
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
a good tip here is to work with the phone in a large tupperware box so that if something drops out it can't go anywhere.
note to the OP: i've read several posts where people damaged the ribbon cable connecting the bottom buttons to the mainboard so be careful. it looks very delicate.
Having just opened mine up several times recently I can offer a couple of tips.
1. Unscrew the four screws - they are T5 torx size.
2. Use thin stiff plastic pieces (I found the plastic case that nails are sold in to be the right stiffness and thickness). Cut some up and push them between the case and the phone works so that they hold each of the locking tabs out in turn. I used five or six bits to do this. Three on the vol control side, two at the top and one on the top area of the other side.
3. Then pushing out at the top where the battery would sit while prying with finger nails outward on the long vol control side you can work each of the locking tabs out so the plastic bits hold them unlocked. Do this along that side, across the top and down the other side working each one a little bit as you go and repeat.
4. This should allow the top edge to come out allowing you to lift is out and "up" so that the button end slides out.
This worked very well for me..several times.
The display is held to the electronics portion by double sided tape and yes it is very strong. But you can soften the adhesion significantly using a heat gun. But you must be careful to heat the whole area to avoid thermal differences cracking the screen. The heat will loosen the tapes grip allowing you to pry the screen away from the electronics side.
Note that the screen is made up of the LCD covered by the glued on digitizer and they are connected with a single ribbon cable on the lower right hand side (I think from memory). This means the screen has to lift off with a hinge action. Lifting along the opposite long edge to the ribbon cable, rather than lift from the top or bottom.
Hope this helps.
Hi, I tried to open mine and followeed the video, be careful as the video makes it look much easier than what it really is, I ended up ruining my device, just take your time and do it slowly.
Thanks guys! Gonna try it over the weekend. Worst case is that I break my case or put some cosmetic damage. I have a spare case though hehe.
The problem about the key is the back button feels stuck.... the other buttons are snappy and have a tactile sort of feel, where as the back button doesn't have the same feel. looks like it was pressed to hard and never popped back up...
just annoying when i've been very careful with the phone.
ok looks like i wouldn't have to open my phone.... i tried to but then there's a warranty void sticker, so I just called tmobile and explained about the back key being stuck.... and they're sending me a replacement.
i'm gonna lose my invisible shield full body though... but better than risking breaking my phone....
My Evo 4g started to develop the dreaded power button failure problems with it randomly not waking up the phone up or putting it to sleep. Over the past few weeks it got progressively worse until it fully failed over the weekend and the only way I could wake my phone up was to plug in the USB cord or have someone text or call me. I was super bummed because my Evo has been a great phone and I don't want to waste my upgrade on a new phone until they get LTE here ... maybe sometime in 2013?
So the good news is that I tried to repair it and found a fix that works! I can't guarantee that it will work for you, but it did for me! Here is what I did:
1. Remove the battery.
2. Remove all 6 torx screws (T5) that secures the red internal frame to the display. One of the torx screw is covered with a black paper-like covering - don't miss that one. It's easy to push the torx wrench through the black paper material to get to the torx head.
3. Carefully pry the red internal housing from the display housing. Start on one side and work around the phone.
4. With the red internal housing removed, unscrew the small phillips screw in the upper corner to remove the motherboard from the display housing. The motherboard will now lift out of the display housing. Don't detach any cables.
6. As you remove the motherboard, look at where the power button is located in the display frame. Just under the power button - but attached to the underside of the motherboard - you will find the actual power button. It is a small silver square at the top of the motherboard with a black button at the top of the motherboard.
Now here is the fix that worked for me...
7. Flip the motherboard over and away from the display so the power button is facing up. There will be some cables holding the display and the motherboard together.
8. Get a can of Radio Shack Electronics Cleaner (contact cleaner). See attached picture of what I used.
9. Hold the phone unit so the power button is lower than the rest of the phone and spray the power button electronics with the contact cleaner using the contact cleaner with spray tube. I was careful not to overspray the mother board (but some did get on the motherboard), and I made sure I didn't get any on the display housing.
10. Let contact cleaner dry for a few minutes, reassemble, and test when completely dry.
That's it! The contact cleaner must have cleaned out whatever corrosion or material was in the power button because it works perfectly now. I did this on Monday of this week and still no problem three days later. Total repair: about $14!
If you are apprehensive about taking apart your phone, here is a link with step-by-step instructions: http://www.ifixit.com/Teardown/HTC-Evo-4G-Teardown/2979/1
So if you are experiencing the dreaded power button failure and you are out of warranty, give this a try before you throw your money away. Hopefully it will work for you!
IT WORKS!!
You sir are a genius. Thank you for the walk through.
Hi guys,
I just disassembled my HD2 to replace my broken digitizer and touchscreen.
But now i'm stuck with a problem.
What shall I use to glue both items together again?
And the keyboard makes some issues.
I tried to place both parts over eachother to see if they fit but I can't press the keys after it.
Seems like they are stuck.
That's why I didn't want to use superglue because after assembling it I wouldn't be able to change anything.
Maybe pictures tell more than words.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=t8Q7mXdcJ54&feature=player_embedded
hope that helps you
thanks wasn't the information I was looking for but nevermind
I assembled the device now .. but the next problem occured ..
the hd2 is loading without problems (led shows it) but when I try to power it on it's completely dead. nothing happends
with my old touchscreen it was at least possible to power it on.
my question is:
could the new soldered touchscreen + digitizer be broken? or did I break something during disassembly and assembly?
To be honest I didn't see any mistakes I made.
It's not my first time repairing stuff like that because I used to repair notebooks as a hobby.
Still i'm unsure what the heck is going on with my phone atm.
did you check if the flex cable from display is in the port, there is an white stripe that shows how far it must in the port. Did the phone vibrate when you pressed power button?
I checked the cables and found nothing suspicious.
and the phone didnt even vibrate after trying to power it on.
I'm trying to get a new hardkey board (i hope you know what I mean).
Had problems with the keys being stuck and maybe I killed that one by trying to assemble it.
if the phone doesn't recognize me pushing the power on key it's no wonder it won't do anything.
hope this will fix the problem
12dollar said:
I checked the cables and found nothing suspicious.
and the phone didnt even vibrate after trying to power it on.
I'm trying to get a new hardkey board (i hope you know what I mean).
Had problems with the keys being stuck and maybe I killed that one by trying to assemble it.
if the phone doesn't recognize me pushing the power on key it's no wonder it won't do anything.
hope this will fix the problem
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Most likely something is wrong with your Power button, but you should turn it on with 2nd method:
- pull out battery;
- insert usb cable(connected to PC)/charger in your usb port;
- insert battery.
This way it should turn on whatever OS you have installed on.
If your OS is Android through MAGLDR, connecting it through usb should turn it on by default, unless your battery is not dead!
Check it out!
bib*oops said:
Most likely something is wrong with your Power button, but you should turn it on with 2nd method:
- pull out battery;
- insert usb cable(connected to PC)/charger in your usb port;
- insert battery.
This way it should turn on whatever OS you have installed on.
If your OS is Android through MAGLDR, connecting it through usb should turn it on by default, unless your battery is not dead!
Check it out!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I just did as you said and yeah the phone came to life.
so there is definately a dead power button (probably the board is broken)
12dollar said:
I just did as you said and yeah the phone came to life.
so there is definately a dead power button (probably the board is broken)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Glad to hear that!
Definitely you should replace your keypad flex!
Did you fix the problem with the hardware keys
Hi,
I have very similar problem.
I changed the touch screen on my HD2 and after reassembling I cannot get the hardware keys clicked.
I ordered a brand new key board and brand new plastic buttons. I received them but situation is the same.
If somebody can explain is there any trick during adjusting the plastic buttons to the clickable "small dots" on the board - please help me.
Best Regards
maznevh said:
Hi,
I have very similar problem.
I changed the touch screen on my HD2 and after reassembling I cannot get the hardware keys clicked.
I ordered a brand new key board and brand new plastic buttons. I received them but situation is the same.
If somebody can explain is there any trick during adjusting the plastic buttons to the clickable "small dots" on the board - please help me.
Best Regards
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Normally this is always down to glass digitizer not being aligned correctly when stuck to LCD.
0.05mm can make all the difference here.
You need review current digitizer position & pre test assembly to centre chassis without tape for a test run on button function.
Also check button board position is exact & located correctly in the pin holes at each end of the board.
original board quality is normally far better than most of the very cheap eBay pattern parts but one or two sellers offer a decent board around $4.50
Also clean all old tape from back of LCD & centre chassis plate so parts fit flush & once all checked new tape can be added, I also use small spots of up40 adhesive sealant near corners & near middle edges for final build up as holds far better than even the best tapes & gives an original strength & long lasting flush look to final job plus us easily removed with razor blade if repair ever needed again.
Super glue is a BIG no no NO.
Hard to get hardware buttons clickable
Mister B said:
Normally this is always down to glass digitizer not being aligned correctly when stuck to LCD.
0.05mm can make all the difference here.
You need review current digitizer position & pre test assembly to centre chassis without tape for a test run on button function.
Also check button board position is exact & located correctly in the pin holes at each end of the board.
original board quality is normally far better than most of the very cheap eBay pattern parts but one or two sellers offer a decent board around $4.50
Also clean all old tape from back of LCD & centre chassis plate so parts fit flush & once all checked new tape can be added, I also use small spots of up40 adhesive sealant near corners & near middle edges for final build up as holds far better than even the best tapes & gives an original strength & long lasting flush look to final job plus us easily removed with razor blade if repair ever needed again.
Super glue is a BIG no no NO.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It is not the case in my case , because I ordered full set (digitizer + display) and they arrived factory assembled.
But you are definitely right - 0.05 mm make the difference. I think the problem comes from the fact that the board with buttons cannot be firmly fixed to the 2 small juts on the chassis. You know the plug of the buttons board is on the tail like extension. Probably when I try to cover the buttons board with the LCD+digitizer - the frame of the LCD slightly pushes the buttons board and the juts on the plastic buttons cannot be fixed exactly on the top of the actual buttons on the board. Anyway we are speaking about precise fixing something around 0.05 mm over something else, which is exactly same size... and in the same time you have to fix this without any visibility.
I will continue trying. If you can give me any other ideas - I will appreciate this.
Thanks
maznevh said:
It is not the case in my case , because I ordered full set (digitizer + display) and they arrived factory assembled.
But you are definitely right - 0.05 mm make the difference. I think the problem comes from the fact that the board with buttons cannot be firmly fixed to the 2 small juts on the chassis. You know the plug of the buttons board is on the tail like extension. Probably when I try to cover the buttons board with the LCD+digitizer - the frame of the LCD slightly pushes the buttons board and the juts on the plastic buttons cannot be fixed exactly on the top of the actual buttons on the board. Anyway we are speaking about precise fixing something around 0.05 mm over something else, which is exactly same size... and in the same time you have to fix this without any visibility.
I will continue trying. If you can give me any other ideas - I will appreciate this.
Thanks
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Do not rule out the LCD/Digitizer assembly as the china combos are prone to not the best accuracy of assembly as sounds like maybe LCD is mounted just a fraction too low on the digitizer perhaps.
Button board should be fixed via 3M style tape & most replacement boards come with tape ready for fitting.
worth making effort with button board to centre chassis to mount securely then mounting lcd to chassis without tape for a trial assembly & try and check for possible issues such as bent chassis or old tape not removed sufficiently or new assembly alignment not the best.
I would also recommend using original plastic button strip as the copy ones are not always good & have had experience with them before.