It was the second time replacing the housing on my Touch. I was a bit careless when putting it back together. I broke the slider button on the side. Can anybody tell me where I can get a replacement??
You try ebay? I found my speaker on ebay and it was only $5.50+free shipping straight from China. It took 9 days for delivery
Did you break the slider, or the physical button assembly on the PCB?
My camera button housing broke (not the button itself), so I had to open my Vogue, tear it out, and now I have to press a tiny phillip's screwdriver against two contacts to get my phone to boot to the bootloader.
Hopefully you haven't wrecked the PCB and can find a suitable replacement.
Shidell said:
Did you break the slider, or the physical button assembly on the PCB?
My camera button housing broke (not the button itself), so I had to open my Vogue, tear it out, and now I have to press a tiny phillip's screwdriver against two contacts to get my phone to boot to the bootloader.
Hopefully you haven't wrecked the PCB and can find a suitable replacement.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
i just ordered a new housing for my vogue if you need any part of my old one we can arrange that. pm me
Related
I tried to replace my vogue after the screen cracked and power button broke, but Sprint/Asurion want $100 to replace it. Turns out it was only the digitizer that cracked so I'm trying to fix the power button myself, then simply replace the digitizer for ~$10.
My problem is that the power button completely broke off from the mainboard. I tried to solder it back on without a result, and I'm wondering if I'm missing a step. The board has 5 separate solder points, but it looks like only 3 are actually making a connection to the button (so I soldered only those). From the looks of the soft reset button, it seems that the two other solder points don't actually bridge any connections, but are touching the underside of the button where it's not metallic.
Obviously I'm missing something here, anyone have a clue?
hate to say it but id just pay the $100 for a refurbish or id look on craigslist or ebay for a replacement.
All you need to do is solder those three solder points. make sure you are using flux so it flows well and keep it straight. I had an issue after I put the case back on and the button on the case not lining up with the switch. Make sure you try to power the phone on before you put the case back on. I would leave the digitizer plugged in just in case.
Using the simple diagram below, soldering the 1-2-4 points didn't make it work. I was able to mimic the button by bridging the 1or2or4 with the 3or5.
1___2
3_4_5
Not sure what else I can do at this point beyond putting in a small momentary button that makes one of these connections, it will make the device look incredibly ghetto though
it is possible when it broke off it took one of the solder pads with it, after you take the button off see if all the connection points are still silverish in color if any are tan unfortunately you will have to go through asurion, there is no way i know of restoring them after that point
Hey im panicing so bad rite now. I just broke my htc's LCD screen ! Mad sad from this disaster . Dont got much money so can someone please tell me whats the cheapest or best way to replace or fix it ? I really need help because im freaking out!
The repair choices
There are basically two choices. Doing it yourself or having it repaired.
In either case the most straight forward is to replace the screen and digitizer as one unit. I expect you can still see things on the screen yet its cracked from one corner. Its the digitizer on the top that usually suffers but its hard to replace by itself. There is a YouTube video showing how to do this (search on Replace Touch Screen on HTC HD2 on YouTube).
If you are game to do it yourself (an electronics tech would be able to do it fairly well, though it is still fairly difficult) then you can buy a complete screen and digitizer off ebay (around $100). Getting the unit out of the case is tricky as its held in with 4xT5 Torx screws (easy bit) and lock notches around the case (tricky part). I found thin stiff plastic bits slotted in between the module and the case works well at releasing the locking notches. Then press out at the top of the battery area, while pulling the top edge of the plastic case out and down with your finger nails. One side at a time. Don't forget to remove the SIM card and SD card as these will hold the module in place if not removed.
The double sided tapes used to hold the screen in place are a problem, but warming them up with a carefully applied heat gun does release them. I would add that there is no need to unscrew any of the electronics boards as the screen can be replaced without doing this. Releasing the screen ribbon cable connector is done by flipping up the black locking section on the ribbon socket. Slide in the new cable, lock it down, then curl it around as you slide it backward under the metal case so that the curl in the cable occurs in that small space under the metal rather than being folded over sharply, which can fracture the ribbon cable "wires" rendering the screen dead.
Press the screen back down onto the tape (hopefully the tape has remained slick enough as its all that holds the screen in place). Be careful to align the edges and top and bottom correctly, otherwise your buttons won't work and the screen will not sit in the case properly. You can test the buttons as you align to feel for the slight click. Be sure to test all four as alignment left to right is just as critical for full function as up and down. You should also watch to be sure the light sensor little plastic bit (its a small clear cube of plastic) doesn't fall out and disappear while you are doing the screen swap and it stays in place during reassembly.
Then press it home into the plastic case. I remove the volume button (if it hasn't fallen out already) as it tends to push the volume button pads out of alignment (they are only held in with yellow tape (be careful not to loose them). Then with it all snapped in place pull out at the volume button section and slot the button back in place. Orientation is fairly obvious with the button points lower down and the joining bar going behind the case plastic to lock it in place (all with the screen facing upward). You may find the volume button only works if you press down on the screen slightly. This movement will be taken up when you screw the 4 torx screws back in.
Finish by powering up (with fingers crossed) and test. Hopefully all working.
Alternatively, if thats put you off doing it yourself, get it repaired by a service agent (around $300). Then it comes back all done with a small warranty. Most of the phone providers will be able to direct you to a good independent service agent.
Hi . I changed my tmobile hd2's screen .
After change volume keys not working. So I can't update any rom.
Because I can't enter recovery.
How can I upgrade any rom without volume keys.
Can "CWM recovery touch" solve my problem.
Can I upgrade any rom with cwm touch recovery without volume keys
im not really sure about how to initally get into the recovery withour the volume keys, but if you can some how, a touch CMW recovery will work
it has directional keys on the bottom of the screen for you to navigate around
just flash it like you wud a normal recovery with what ever set-up size you need!
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=1419733
On the non touch cwm (some of them anyway) you can use home and menu hard keys to scroll as well as volume.
But as already mentioned,you can't get into recovery so having touch or alternate keys won't help.
matcoder said:
Hi . I changed my tmobile hd2's screen .
After change volume keys not working. So I can't update any rom.
Because I can't enter recovery.
How can I upgrade any rom without volume keys.
Can "CWM recovery touch" solve my problem.
Can I upgrade any rom with cwm touch recovery without volume keys
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
DO NOT FLASH ANYTHING WITH DAMAGED VOLUME KEYS!!
I flashed a splash screen on mine after damaging ribbon to volume keys and now I have a main board that will NOT recognize these keys even after replacing the broken part, I cant say yours will do this, but mine did soo...
I have replaced two screens on mine, the ribbon to the volume rocker is very delicate i tore two of them on my first screen replacement ( i buy bricked HD2s' for screens). I have had my HD2 now almost two years and no parts are original. Just recently i FINALLY bought one with a busted out screen so i could replace just the main ribbon assembly and a main board that can use volume keys.
This main ribbon sits under your regulatory label ( with the FCC shiz and serial #'s) its integral with your GPS radio, camera assembly, and of course volume rocker keys.
This can be replaced with only moderate difficulty, there are videos even from HTC that explains how to disassemble/reassemble everything safely and in order.
Disassemble
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cL-jnUKufC4
Reassemble
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=t8Q7mXdcJ54&feature=channel&list=UL
I found those after I ripped not one but two volume key ribbons....
To do this you need to pay attention to how the coaxial cables for bluetooth(white) and GPS(black thin) sit, to avoid a few hours of trial and error. getting everything to fit again.
First disconnect the coaxial from blutooth be gentle now, its the white cable at the left of my first image, that phone is nowhere near assembled remember how your cable was positioned. remove and unplug the speaker as well as the vibrator as you move the white cable out of the way, stop pulling it when you hit the screw hole at the top right corner of regulatory label.
Just above where the screw hole is you should see another plug like the blutooth coaxial only black disconnect that and leave it there. try to leave the thicker black cable that leads to camera connected, its ok if it comes out but its a pain to get connected again.
When the top right of your phone looks like my second pic your ready to remove the screw keeping the gps in place thats the top right screw, silver.
disconnect the camera cable from the main board its right next to the battery terminals, the only plug there and hard to miss behind where your simcard goes.
This is important..... right behind the volume keys is the groove thats keeping those coaxial and camera cables in place, under those is the ribbon leading to volume rocker. taking note of how they fit remove these cables from the groove 4th pic
Sorry about the detail cameras are less than perfect on ICS builds and im a terrible photographer on top of that. you must understand that there is a black tape holding those wires together near the mother board, thats right where the volume ribbon is so be careful when you get to that. i just cut/tear the tape holding wires in place, also one of the coaxial cables plugs under the main board right there as well be careful not to disconnect that, you wont hurt anything but its a pain to get it back.
after cables are free from groove you can remove volume rocker. rocker board is held with adhesive just like the camera up top. using fingernail pry the board away from its housing, when its loose from the housing its glued to just let it sit loose, be gentle while getting that loose.
now for the gps/camera, you can fit a small flat head screwdriver between edges of gps board and the plastic of the phone casing, the gps board has clip holding left side so go from the right or the same side that screw was in.
the camera is only adhered so you can put pressure to wherever you feel comfortable its actually pretty solid i have done it a few times and never harmed it.
peel it like you would a sticker down to the main board where it connects under the sdcard then pull it straight back. the last image is what the assembly looks like in tact so have an idea of where not to put too much stress when peeling it.
again DONT FLASH ANYTHING IF YOU RIPPED RIBBON TO VOLUME ROCKER!! This may wreck your main board as it did mine and you'll be stuck on sd builds until you find another main board....
HD2's with busted screens go for about $60-80 off ebay shipped. send me message if you have any q's, also that ribbon/camera/gps assembly in last picture is tested by me and fully functional, also much cheaper than a busted screen HD2 ........
Hi mrbox23,
I believe I have flashed my HTC HD2 (or at least tried) and now I can't get past the HTC splash screen and can't initiate the bootloader!
Hi opened the HTC HD2 and found that the ribbon/flex to volume rocker is cutted!
Now, according to your post it's probable that if I replace the whole main flex I won't be able to initiate bootloadr because the mainboard won't recognise the volume buttons?
Another question is: you said "This may wreck your main board as it did mine and you'll be stuck on sd builds until you find another main board...." this means that I can still use my HTC HD 2 using the sd memory card only with some build? If so can you tell me, or at least, point out some post where to do it? Because in every post that I saw it is necessary to be able to initiate the bootloader!
I would be very gratefull if you could help me on this.
Best regards,
calcaneo
My Evo 4g started to develop the dreaded power button failure problems with it randomly not waking up the phone up or putting it to sleep. Over the past few weeks it got progressively worse until it fully failed over the weekend and the only way I could wake my phone up was to plug in the USB cord or have someone text or call me. I was super bummed because my Evo has been a great phone and I don't want to waste my upgrade on a new phone until they get LTE here ... maybe sometime in 2013?
So the good news is that I tried to repair it and found a fix that works! I can't guarantee that it will work for you, but it did for me! Here is what I did:
1. Remove the battery.
2. Remove all 6 torx screws (T5) that secures the red internal frame to the display. One of the torx screw is covered with a black paper-like covering - don't miss that one. It's easy to push the torx wrench through the black paper material to get to the torx head.
3. Carefully pry the red internal housing from the display housing. Start on one side and work around the phone.
4. With the red internal housing removed, unscrew the small phillips screw in the upper corner to remove the motherboard from the display housing. The motherboard will now lift out of the display housing. Don't detach any cables.
6. As you remove the motherboard, look at where the power button is located in the display frame. Just under the power button - but attached to the underside of the motherboard - you will find the actual power button. It is a small silver square at the top of the motherboard with a black button at the top of the motherboard.
Now here is the fix that worked for me...
7. Flip the motherboard over and away from the display so the power button is facing up. There will be some cables holding the display and the motherboard together.
8. Get a can of Radio Shack Electronics Cleaner (contact cleaner). See attached picture of what I used.
9. Hold the phone unit so the power button is lower than the rest of the phone and spray the power button electronics with the contact cleaner using the contact cleaner with spray tube. I was careful not to overspray the mother board (but some did get on the motherboard), and I made sure I didn't get any on the display housing.
10. Let contact cleaner dry for a few minutes, reassemble, and test when completely dry.
That's it! The contact cleaner must have cleaned out whatever corrosion or material was in the power button because it works perfectly now. I did this on Monday of this week and still no problem three days later. Total repair: about $14!
If you are apprehensive about taking apart your phone, here is a link with step-by-step instructions: http://www.ifixit.com/Teardown/HTC-Evo-4G-Teardown/2979/1
So if you are experiencing the dreaded power button failure and you are out of warranty, give this a try before you throw your money away. Hopefully it will work for you!
IT WORKS!!
You sir are a genius. Thank you for the walk through.
Hi guys,
I just disassembled my HD2 to replace my broken digitizer and touchscreen.
But now i'm stuck with a problem.
What shall I use to glue both items together again?
And the keyboard makes some issues.
I tried to place both parts over eachother to see if they fit but I can't press the keys after it.
Seems like they are stuck.
That's why I didn't want to use superglue because after assembling it I wouldn't be able to change anything.
Maybe pictures tell more than words.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=t8Q7mXdcJ54&feature=player_embedded
hope that helps you
thanks wasn't the information I was looking for but nevermind
I assembled the device now .. but the next problem occured ..
the hd2 is loading without problems (led shows it) but when I try to power it on it's completely dead. nothing happends
with my old touchscreen it was at least possible to power it on.
my question is:
could the new soldered touchscreen + digitizer be broken? or did I break something during disassembly and assembly?
To be honest I didn't see any mistakes I made.
It's not my first time repairing stuff like that because I used to repair notebooks as a hobby.
Still i'm unsure what the heck is going on with my phone atm.
did you check if the flex cable from display is in the port, there is an white stripe that shows how far it must in the port. Did the phone vibrate when you pressed power button?
I checked the cables and found nothing suspicious.
and the phone didnt even vibrate after trying to power it on.
I'm trying to get a new hardkey board (i hope you know what I mean).
Had problems with the keys being stuck and maybe I killed that one by trying to assemble it.
if the phone doesn't recognize me pushing the power on key it's no wonder it won't do anything.
hope this will fix the problem
12dollar said:
I checked the cables and found nothing suspicious.
and the phone didnt even vibrate after trying to power it on.
I'm trying to get a new hardkey board (i hope you know what I mean).
Had problems with the keys being stuck and maybe I killed that one by trying to assemble it.
if the phone doesn't recognize me pushing the power on key it's no wonder it won't do anything.
hope this will fix the problem
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Most likely something is wrong with your Power button, but you should turn it on with 2nd method:
- pull out battery;
- insert usb cable(connected to PC)/charger in your usb port;
- insert battery.
This way it should turn on whatever OS you have installed on.
If your OS is Android through MAGLDR, connecting it through usb should turn it on by default, unless your battery is not dead!
Check it out!
bib*oops said:
Most likely something is wrong with your Power button, but you should turn it on with 2nd method:
- pull out battery;
- insert usb cable(connected to PC)/charger in your usb port;
- insert battery.
This way it should turn on whatever OS you have installed on.
If your OS is Android through MAGLDR, connecting it through usb should turn it on by default, unless your battery is not dead!
Check it out!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I just did as you said and yeah the phone came to life.
so there is definately a dead power button (probably the board is broken)
12dollar said:
I just did as you said and yeah the phone came to life.
so there is definately a dead power button (probably the board is broken)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Glad to hear that!
Definitely you should replace your keypad flex!
Did you fix the problem with the hardware keys
Hi,
I have very similar problem.
I changed the touch screen on my HD2 and after reassembling I cannot get the hardware keys clicked.
I ordered a brand new key board and brand new plastic buttons. I received them but situation is the same.
If somebody can explain is there any trick during adjusting the plastic buttons to the clickable "small dots" on the board - please help me.
Best Regards
maznevh said:
Hi,
I have very similar problem.
I changed the touch screen on my HD2 and after reassembling I cannot get the hardware keys clicked.
I ordered a brand new key board and brand new plastic buttons. I received them but situation is the same.
If somebody can explain is there any trick during adjusting the plastic buttons to the clickable "small dots" on the board - please help me.
Best Regards
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Normally this is always down to glass digitizer not being aligned correctly when stuck to LCD.
0.05mm can make all the difference here.
You need review current digitizer position & pre test assembly to centre chassis without tape for a test run on button function.
Also check button board position is exact & located correctly in the pin holes at each end of the board.
original board quality is normally far better than most of the very cheap eBay pattern parts but one or two sellers offer a decent board around $4.50
Also clean all old tape from back of LCD & centre chassis plate so parts fit flush & once all checked new tape can be added, I also use small spots of up40 adhesive sealant near corners & near middle edges for final build up as holds far better than even the best tapes & gives an original strength & long lasting flush look to final job plus us easily removed with razor blade if repair ever needed again.
Super glue is a BIG no no NO.
Hard to get hardware buttons clickable
Mister B said:
Normally this is always down to glass digitizer not being aligned correctly when stuck to LCD.
0.05mm can make all the difference here.
You need review current digitizer position & pre test assembly to centre chassis without tape for a test run on button function.
Also check button board position is exact & located correctly in the pin holes at each end of the board.
original board quality is normally far better than most of the very cheap eBay pattern parts but one or two sellers offer a decent board around $4.50
Also clean all old tape from back of LCD & centre chassis plate so parts fit flush & once all checked new tape can be added, I also use small spots of up40 adhesive sealant near corners & near middle edges for final build up as holds far better than even the best tapes & gives an original strength & long lasting flush look to final job plus us easily removed with razor blade if repair ever needed again.
Super glue is a BIG no no NO.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It is not the case in my case , because I ordered full set (digitizer + display) and they arrived factory assembled.
But you are definitely right - 0.05 mm make the difference. I think the problem comes from the fact that the board with buttons cannot be firmly fixed to the 2 small juts on the chassis. You know the plug of the buttons board is on the tail like extension. Probably when I try to cover the buttons board with the LCD+digitizer - the frame of the LCD slightly pushes the buttons board and the juts on the plastic buttons cannot be fixed exactly on the top of the actual buttons on the board. Anyway we are speaking about precise fixing something around 0.05 mm over something else, which is exactly same size... and in the same time you have to fix this without any visibility.
I will continue trying. If you can give me any other ideas - I will appreciate this.
Thanks
maznevh said:
It is not the case in my case , because I ordered full set (digitizer + display) and they arrived factory assembled.
But you are definitely right - 0.05 mm make the difference. I think the problem comes from the fact that the board with buttons cannot be firmly fixed to the 2 small juts on the chassis. You know the plug of the buttons board is on the tail like extension. Probably when I try to cover the buttons board with the LCD+digitizer - the frame of the LCD slightly pushes the buttons board and the juts on the plastic buttons cannot be fixed exactly on the top of the actual buttons on the board. Anyway we are speaking about precise fixing something around 0.05 mm over something else, which is exactly same size... and in the same time you have to fix this without any visibility.
I will continue trying. If you can give me any other ideas - I will appreciate this.
Thanks
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Do not rule out the LCD/Digitizer assembly as the china combos are prone to not the best accuracy of assembly as sounds like maybe LCD is mounted just a fraction too low on the digitizer perhaps.
Button board should be fixed via 3M style tape & most replacement boards come with tape ready for fitting.
worth making effort with button board to centre chassis to mount securely then mounting lcd to chassis without tape for a trial assembly & try and check for possible issues such as bent chassis or old tape not removed sufficiently or new assembly alignment not the best.
I would also recommend using original plastic button strip as the copy ones are not always good & have had experience with them before.