I had Aurora 4.10+u1a and Paul's kernel. I installed Swapper 2 from market and it messed everything. Now phone don't boot. No recovery no pink screen . Please help
The default partition is the emmc one. Its not suppose to be it. You have to change the 0 to 1. Its directions are in frozenpika in the pro section.
Sent from my u8800-51 using xda premium.
Somcom3X said:
The default partition is the emmc one. Its not suppose to be it. You have to change the 0 to 1. Its directions are in frozenpika in the pro section.
Sent from my u8800-51 using xda premium.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Link Please....
cm7
try this one
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=1527745
direct link http://code.google.com/p/cyanogenmo...me=cm-7-20120721-UNOFFICIAL-u8800.zip&can=2&q=
socioan said:
try this one
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=1527745
direct link http://code.google.com/p/cyanogenmo...me=cm-7-20120721-UNOFFICIAL-u8800.zip&can=2&q=
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
How can i try no pink screen no recovery, nothing is working
If you used partition number as mmcblk0p2, then your device is bricked and currently we have not found a way to unbrick it. mmcblk0p2 holds the main bootloader, but it should be possible to alter the boot sequence or force the phone to enter downloader mode, but as I said, we have not found a way to do this.
Blefish said:
If you used partition number as mmcblk0p2, then your device is bricked and currently we have not found a way to unbrick it. mmcblk0p2 holds the main bootloader, but it should be possible to alter the boot sequence or force the phone to enter downloader mode, but as I said, we have not found a way to do this.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Any idea how can this be possible?
mittalmailbox said:
Any idea how can this be possible?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I was trying to do this myself, but did not succeed. The six pins under the phone (under the SIM, on the motherboard) are for service terminal. So far I know 2 pins are USB data lines. Check: http://i871.photobucket.com/albums/ab271/fertxter/mainboard.jpg
If we manage to get the pin information for all the six pins, we could find a way to fix the phone in such cases.
Blefish said:
I was trying to do this myself, but did not succeed. The six pins under the phone (under the SIM, on the motherboard) are for service terminal. So far I know 2 pins are USB data lines. Check: http://i871.photobucket.com/albums/ab271/fertxter/mainboard.jpg
If we manage to get the pin information for all the six pins, we could find a way to fix the phone in such cases.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Which hardware part can be replaced to make it work, Actually my phone is out of warranty.
mittalmailbox said:
Which hardware part can be replaced to make it work, Actually my phone is out of warranty.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Easiest fix without actually reinserting the bootloader is to replace the EMMC chip however that would be hard. I believe the six pins are used to directly communicate with the EMMC chip or control the Qualcomm's QHSUSB_DLOAD function. Unfortunately I don't have the information needed to fix it in your case. If we manage to get a service manual for repairing soft bricks like bootloaders, that would be cool, but since we don't have anything like that now, I can't say what to do :/.
Blefish said:
Easiest fix without actually reinserting the bootloader is to replace the EMMC chip however that would be hard. I believe the six pins are used to directly communicate with the EMMC chip or control the Qualcomm's QHSUSB_DLOAD function. Unfortunately I don't have the information needed to fix it in your case. If we manage to get a service manual for repairing soft bricks like bootloaders, that would be cool, but since we don't have anything like that now, I can't say what to do :/.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks a lot for reply. I don't think survice guys will figure out what the real problem is. So i'll ask them if they can change eMMC.
Isn't their any way to access eMMC to put bootloader in it.
Blefish said:
I was trying to do this myself, but did not succeed. The six pins under the phone (under the SIM, on the motherboard) are for service terminal. So far I know 2 pins are USB data lines. Check: http://i871.photobucket.com/albums/ab271/fertxter/mainboard.jpg
If we manage to get the pin information for all the six pins, we could find a way to fix the phone in such cases.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Check if you get some help from this documents.
But no motherboard pinouts, yet!
https://dl.dropbox.com/u/47794118/05.Imagens/U8800/U8800_Repair_Manual.zip
kilroystyx said:
Check if you get some help from this documents.
But no motherboard pinouts, yet!
https://dl.dropbox.com/u/47794118/05.Imagens/U8800/U8800_Repair_Manual.zip
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
These docs are very helpful, especially the GPIO & MPP table. One of the documents is not related to U8800 however, but thanks .
kilroystyx said:
Check if you get some help from this documents.
But no motherboard pinouts, yet!
https://dl.dropbox.com/u/47794118/05.Imagens/U8800/U8800_Repair_Manual.zip
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks for docs but i have no idea what to do
Blefish said:
These docs are very helpful, especially the GPIO & MPP table. One of the documents is not related to U8800 however, but thanks .
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Service guys said it will cost too much to get it repaired. Will do something myself.
Blefish said:
These docs are very helpful, especially the GPIO & MPP table. One of the documents is not related to U8800 however, but thanks .
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes, you are right one of them is related to C8150, but belong to the original doc, I think is there just for PCB example.
Unfortunately I didn't found the pinout, precious info for JTAG users.
Who can help with this translation? Translation => "inspection point"
{
"lightbox_close": "Close",
"lightbox_next": "Next",
"lightbox_previous": "Previous",
"lightbox_error": "The requested content cannot be loaded. Please try again later.",
"lightbox_start_slideshow": "Start slideshow",
"lightbox_stop_slideshow": "Stop slideshow",
"lightbox_full_screen": "Full screen",
"lightbox_thumbnails": "Thumbnails",
"lightbox_download": "Download",
"lightbox_share": "Share",
"lightbox_zoom": "Zoom",
"lightbox_new_window": "New window",
"lightbox_toggle_sidebar": "Toggle sidebar"
}
---------- Post added at 08:54 PM ---------- Previous post was at 08:27 PM ----------
mittalmailbox said:
Thanks for docs but i have no idea what to do
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Be patient, without motherboard pinout I think we are stuck.
kilroystyx said:
Yes, you are right one of them is related to C8150, but belong to the original doc, I think is there just for PCB example.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The PCB with the chip ID numbers I have on my Mediafire, so that's not a biggie, if searching for a resistor or a chip.
The biggest mystery right now is those six pins. If you look at the back of U8800, you can see a rubber which can be removed (when opened though). In the manual it's referred to as "test hole rubber". Test points are usually used to check what the phone should do, for example: go to download mode if specific pin is connected to ground. It could actually be some sort of serial connection with host. Are there any other Huawei phones with those pins? U8860 is the closest device to U8800/U8800+.
Blefish said:
The PCB with the chip ID numbers I have on my Mediafire, so that's not a biggie, if searching for a resistor or a chip.
The biggest mystery right now is those six pins. If you look at the back of U8800, you can see a rubber which can be removed (when opened though). In the manual it's referred to as "test hole rubber". Test points are usually used to check what the phone should do, for example: go to download mode if specific pin is connected to ground. It could actually be some sort of serial connection with host. Are there any other Huawei phones with those pins? U8860 is the closest device to U8800/U8800+.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The one kilroystyx PM'ed us is not helpful either?
mittalmailbox said:
The one kilroystyx PM'ed us is not helpful either?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Well, if you can take your mobile to a repair shop, I am pretty sure they have JTAG. So you just give them your phone and the JTAG pinout, and your phone should be fixable. JTAG can fix pretty much any software issue. Or buy a JTAG box yourself and make a cable and attach it yourself, but the JTAG box is not cheap so that's probably not going to happen.
Blefish said:
The PCB with the chip ID numbers I have on my Mediafire, so that's not a biggie, if searching for a resistor or a chip.
The biggest mystery right now is those six pins. If you look at the back of U8800, you can see a rubber which can be removed (when opened though). In the manual it's referred to as "test hole rubber". Test points are usually used to check what the phone should do, for example: go to download mode if specific pin is connected to ground. It could actually be some sort of serial connection with host. Are there any other Huawei phones with those pins? U8860 is the closest device to U8800/U8800+.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I see, you have access to bill of material, HD2U880U, HD1U880M pcb's, etc...
Yes, all phones have this kind of pins, they are used by in-circuit test (ict), start-up device, etc ... during production process.
I'm pretty sure that you can find this pinout in the schematic of pcb HD1U880M under ref. TP1801, do you have access to this diagram?
The hole is a little bit strange because in mine is placed one white dot above pins, this prevent correct contact, in yours the white dot is present too?
kilroystyx said:
I see, you have access to bill of material, HD2U880U, HD1U880M pcb's, etc...
Yes, all phones have this kind of pins, they are used by in-circuit test (ict), start-up device, etc ... during production process.
I'm pretty sure that you can find this pinout in the schematic of pcb HD1U880M under ref. TP1801, do you have access to this diagram?
The hole is a little bit strange because in mine is placed one white dot above pins, this prevent correct contact, in yours the white dot is present too?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I had it covered too, but I removed it myself now. The ref number TP1801 is the key, but no documents seem to be talking about it. So if it is ICT, one of the pins should cover EMMC power lines too, right? If we manipulate it, the EMMC is not powered and the phone must go to download mode or try alternate boot methods. I am not experienced in electronics really, but the pin should be connected to ground (or negative) I suppose? With a multimeter, we could check which pin it is, but I have not got access to my phone right now, so I can't do it yet. I understand it should be connected to one of the resistors around the EMMC chip.
It seems to me like the HD1 and HD2 are development models, and they may have got the front camera connected too (30W camera manuals are talking about). Kernel had a workaround for HD1 which did not start the light/proximity sensor, so those may have been the changes.
Related
Background
First off, big thanks to TheBeano and Midas5 for teaching me about UART, decompiling bootloaders and figuring out how the OM values work. Their initial work and dedication in "Lets Save Some Bricks" inspired me greatly. Since the work started we've analyzed UART outputs, hacked the heck out of the SBL prompt, obtained both decompiled and source for bootloaders, and generally learned a **** ton about our devices... Mind you, that's a Metric **** ton, not the Imperial **** ton, which is equivalent to nearly 2000 assloads. The reason I'm branching this operation at the current point is because this modification is specific to our device. The proper modifications for other Samsung devices have not been identified yet. We're first! Yay! We need to focus on Captivate firmware development now. The firmware may encompass all GalaxyS models as well, but this modification will only work on the Captivate.
introduction
I'm not kidding when I say UnBrickable. Modifying the OM pins means you can boot from USB, UART or MMC. This makes the phone quite UNBRICKABLE. There is nothing you can do software wise to prevent the device from booting into this mode. We are communicating with the unrewritable, efused IROM on the processor. It's the thing that makes the system on a chip into a "system on a chip".I am here now to tell you how to turn your Samsung Captivate into a KIT-S5PC110 development board. The KIT-S5PC110 development board is the platform used to develop our phones. There are some differences between this mod and the official development platform. The S5PC110 has a removable internal SDCard and no touchscreen.
Why would you want to do this? When you plug in the battery and connect it to the computer in "off" mode, it will become an S5PC110 board awaiting download of a program to run. This occurs long before anything like software or firmware enters the processor. This is the IROM of the device awaiting commands or a power on signal.
Because it is accepting a memory flash, anything may be put onto the device to perform a boot sequence..... Apple iOS (iPhone4 has the same processor) WP7 (mango supports this processor).
This will be a replacement for JTAG once we are able to make some firmware. How could it possibly be better then JTAG? Let's count the ways....
1. The only part required is a wire.
2. No shipping time.
3. No cost for a box to interface the computer.
4. Permanent.
5. Can be done as a preventive measure.
6. Gives the ability to test new Bootloaders temporarily.
7. Allows development of the entire system.
8. Removes worry about flashing and acts as a backup.
After performing this mod:
Remove the battery, replace the battery, your phone will connect to the computer via USB and await commands. Otherwise it will pretty much act like a captivate. See the Special Instructions section.
Modification
You will need:
1. Get someone who knows what they're doing with a soldering iron. If they don't know what flux is, then they don't know what they're doing. You can send me a PM(my username @gmail.com) or Connexion2005(aka MobileTechVideos.com). Note: I do not work for/with mobiletechvideos.com.
2. soldering iron - make sure it's sharp, if it's not sharp, then sharpen it, flux it and retin it.
3. flux
4. solder
5. tweezers
6. A relay (for the wire contained within)
getting started:
You will need a very small peice of wire. Tear apart the relay unravel the coil within and grab about 12cm~ of wire. The fact that it comes from a relay is important because relays generally have very small wire which are individually treated with a non-conductive coating.
Take the 12cm~ wire from the relay and tin the very edge of it. No more then 1/32". If you tin more then 1mm, cut off the excess. It is desirable to have a slight bit of excess solder on the tip of this wire.
performing the modification:
1. tear apart your phone... remove 6 #0 phillips screws from the back. Two of them are under the battery slide flap. The slide flap must be up on one end and down on the other in order to get to these screws... Don't LIFT the slide flap, just rotate it at an angle. Once the 6 screws are out, then you can separate the back from the front. Make sure to take out your SIM and external SDCard before you do this.
{
"lightbox_close": "Close",
"lightbox_next": "Next",
"lightbox_previous": "Previous",
"lightbox_error": "The requested content cannot be loaded. Please try again later.",
"lightbox_start_slideshow": "Start slideshow",
"lightbox_stop_slideshow": "Stop slideshow",
"lightbox_full_screen": "Full screen",
"lightbox_thumbnails": "Thumbnails",
"lightbox_download": "Download",
"lightbox_share": "Share",
"lightbox_zoom": "Zoom",
"lightbox_new_window": "New window",
"lightbox_toggle_sidebar": "Toggle sidebar"
}
2. remove the mainboard... there's a single screw and 5 connectors which require removal. Remove them. Pull the board out and place it on your workspace
3. remove the EM shield from the processor side.
4. remove the OM5 resistor in the picture below. It's coated in glue. I've found the best thing is to just coat the area in flux and let it do the work while prodding with the iron to move the resistor out of place.
5. Connect the active side of xOM0 resistor to the active pad on OM5's resistor pads.
http://i51.tinypic.com/160zmty.jpg
6. reassemble the phone.
Special Instructions
This replaces the battery charging sequence. The normal battery charging sequence can be activated by holding power for 4 seconds.
To turn on the device, and operate in normal mode, you must hold the power button for 5 seconds.
3 button Download mode works as usual, however you must not have the S5PC110 drivers installed on the computer. You can use your custom rom menu option, adb reboot download, or use a terminal to "reboot download". 301Kohm Factory Mode JIGs work as well, but you must press power to bypass the S5PC110 mode.
Conclusion
Congratulations. You now have a device which works like a KIT-S5PC110 with an OM Value of 29. Now get to developing some serious custom software. See here for setting up the UART output http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=1235219
reading material
Creating your own Samsung Bootloaders: http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=1233273
KIT-S5PC110 manual: http://www.mediafire.com/?94krzvvxksvmuxh
how to use DNW: http://tinyurl.com/dnw-how-to
Flash using openOCD and DNW: http://www.arm9board.net/wiki/index.php?title=Flash_using_OpenOCD_and_DNW
another DNW example: http://www.boardset.com/products/mv6410.php
ODroid dev center: http://dev.odroid.com/projects/uboot/wiki/#s-7.2
drivers and utilities
This will be an ever expanding list
Windows Drivers http://forum.xda-developers.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=678937&d=1312590673
Windows Download Tool DNW: http://forum.xda-developers.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=678938&d=1312590673
Windows Command Line tool: http://forum.xda-developers.com/showpost.php?p=17202523&postcount=27
Linux DNW Utility: http://dev.odroid.com/projects/uboot/wiki/#s-7.2
Linux Detector tool: http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=1257434
Linux Automated UnBricker:http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=1242466
firmware
Bootloader Hello World by Rebellos http://forum.xda-developers.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=698077&d=1314105521
UnBrick tool http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=1242466
Great work adam. cant wait to see this used to reflash bootloaders or something.
now we need firmware... i figured adam would have flashed something already , and thought about getting back from that flash later
https://github.com/teamhacksung/uBoot
possibility of uBoot on our devices... so much nicer than our current bootloaders. initial work has been done by codeworkx for compatibility with our boards, but (obviously) hasn't been tested
COOOL
looks good
Very exciting work y'all! Any plans on using it to dual boot Andbuntu/iOS?
Wow dude, you do some great work. Keep us posted!
Now if it only was a light sabor too....
i did a little bit of reading and definitly agree it would be cool to get uboot on our phones,
along with unbicking devices.
I would love to help sadly I have no knowledge of this low level stuff, or soldering skills.
I will watch this thread closely. Good luck guys.
http://www.linuxfordevices.com/c/a/...s-UBoot-the-universal-open-source-bootloader/
I was attempting to see what i could "upload" from my daily phone. I messed up my daily phone while performing this modification. I was trying to remove the xOM5 resistor and got impatient. I broke it off, it took the pad with it and I and was left with only a .001mm wire on the board. I attempted to solder it for about 6 hours straight and after a while I swiped off 5 resistors in a line. I'm sure I could repair it, but I just went and bought another phone.
Lesson: Take your time, and don't try to force anything. That glue is tough and it acts as a heat sink. Remove the glue from one side of the resistor, heat the entire resistor up and let it slide off. Don't try to speed it up.
Once you perform this modification everything works just fine. No problems. It's a risky procedure though.
I still have not tested any firmware sucessfully. I tried a few precompiled uboots, but I did not yet try the uboot mentioned above.
This looks awesome, although I'm hesitant to do it, because there's always that chance that I will need to RMA. Sorry about your phone Adam, I think everyone in the forum is probably in love with you now though!
Sent from my SAMSUNG SGH-I897 using XDA Premium App
I would add that when doing this work, you should use ESD protections. Wrist strap (you can rig a homemade version), ESD mat, etc. Not as big of a risk in a humid environment, but as relative humidity drops, the risk increases. You can never be to safe if your phone is valuable to you. Typically, consumer electronics are hardened to ESD through connectors and the housing, but when you are directly handing the PCBA, you are potentially bypassing the hardware filters.
I need something to flash with this bad boy now.
Sent from my GT-I9000 using XDA Premium App
Adam, thanks for all your work, and everyone else for that matter. Connexion never responded to my PM about jtag work, but this little modification is so damned easy I went ahead and did it. I'll be patiently waiting for a firmware we can use to reflash bricked phones in the future.
Again, thanks a ton!
I don't need to rework the board do I? As in is picture 4 simply for reference?
Proxyep said:
I don't need to rework the board do I? As in is picture 4 simply for reference?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Picture 6.
Adam, did you try tracing the i2c?
It might give us an un-brick mode without even soldering om5.
So what would this exaclty do?, dont wanna do it till i know exactly what it does.
Sent from my Cappy with Glitch V11 LL at 1.6GHz stable, Juwe's RAM script, V6 script, V8 kickass kernel tweaks, and 3G booster script using XDA Premium App
midas5 said:
Adam, did you try tracing the i2c?
It might give us an un-brick mode without even soldering om5.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
No, I have not been messing with hardware since I found the OM5 mod. I wish to develop this further. If you can get me a pin number to trace I will do that. Please look up the pin in the S5PC110 manual and I will trace it... I've been very busy locating software for this mod.
b-eock said:
So what would this exaclty do?, dont wanna do it till i know exactly what it does.
Sent from my Cappy with Glitch V11 LL at 1.6GHz stable, Juwe's RAM script, V6 script, V8 kickass kernel tweaks, and 3G booster script using XDA Premium App
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Currently we are running into this:
Code:
��������������������������������������������������������������������������������
Uart negotiation Error
Secure Fail Error
Secure Fail Error is likely because the uBoot I am loading violates the S5PC110 chain of trust. I am working to locate software which will not violate the chain of trust.
See this post for more:
popfan said:
I found this while waiting for the reply from Samsung.
http://www.aesop.or.kr/?document_srl=266600&mid=Board_Download_S5PC100
This is Linux Native - Complier Package
Please note this is in Korean.
One more found:
http://www.aesop.or.kr/?mid=Board_Download_S5PC100&page=2&document_srl=75581
USB OTG-Mon Binary ??
Last one - S5PC100 Code Visor Debug resource
http://www.aesop.or.kr/?document_srl=267106&mid=Board_Download_S5PC100
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have a 3 day waiting period for my id on that site to become active, at which point, I believe we will have a solution.
I believe the binary on this page will be the solution http://www.aesop.or.kr/?mid=Board_Download_S5PC100&page=2&document_srl=75581
b-eock said:
So what would this exaclty do?, dont wanna do it till i know exactly what it does.
Sent from my Cappy with Glitch V11 LL at 1.6GHz stable, Juwe's RAM script, V6 script, V8 kickass kernel tweaks, and 3G booster script using XDA Premium App
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Allows you to boot from things other than the internal sdcard, and overwrite memory on the phone. Basically, if you break a bootloader, this is the only thing that could fix it beyond re-jtaging it.
At this point, there's no real point unless a) your device is bricked or b) Adam gets the software half up and running, in which you could do it as a pre-emptive measure.
This was originally posted by AdamOutler and helped me a lot, so i think that EVERYONE who have a vibrant or an i9000 should know about it.
sorry if i´ve ressurected this post but it is too useful to get hidden.
Link to the original post:
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=1273083&highlight=unbrickable
Introduction:
I'm not kidding when I say UnBrickable. Modifying the OM pins means you can boot from USB, UART or MMC. This makes the phone quite UNBRICKABLE. There is nothing you can do software wise to prevent the device from booting into this mode. We are communicating with the unrewritable, efused IROM on the processor. It's the thing that makes the system on a chip into a "system on a chip".I am here now to tell you how to turn your Samsung Droid Charge into a KIT-S5PC110 development board. The KIT-S5PC110 development board is the platform used to develop our phones. There are some differences between this mod and the official development platform. The S5PC110 has a removable internal SDCard and no touchscreen.
Why would you want to do this? When you plug in the battery and connect it to the computer in "off" mode, it will become an S5PC110 board awaiting download of a program to run. This occurs long before anything like software or firmware enters the processor. This is the IROM of the device awaiting commands or a power on signal.
Because it is accepting a memory flash, anything may be put onto the device to perform a boot sequence..... Apple iOS (iPhone4 has the same processor) WP7 (mango supports this processor).
This will be a replacement for JTAG once we are able to make some firmware. How could it possibly be better then JTAG? Let's count the ways....
1. The only part required is a wire.
2. No shipping time.
3. No cost for a box to interface the computer.
4. Permanent.
5. Can be done as a preventive measure.
6. Gives the ability to test new Bootloaders temporarily.
7. Allows development of the entire system.
8. Removes worry about flashing and acts as a backup.
After performing this mod:
Remove the battery, replace the battery, your phone will connect to the computer via USB and await commands. Otherwise it will pretty much act like a Vibrant. See the Special Instructions section.
Modification
You will need:
1. Get someone who knows what they're doing with a soldering iron. If they don't know what flux is, then they don't know what they're doing. You can send me a PM(or email my [email protected]) or Connexion2005(aka MobileTechVideos.com). Note: I do not work for/with mobiletechvideos.com.
2. soldering iron - make sure it's sharp, if it's not sharp, then sharpen it, flux it and retin it.
3. flux
4. solder
5. tweezers
6. A relay (possibly- for the wire within to use as a bridge)
performing the modification:
1. tear apart your phone... Make sure to take out your SIM and external SDCard before you do this.
1A. Remove the screws.
1B. Separate the top case from the bottom case
1C. disconnect the display connector and free the camera and button assemblies from the case.
1D. Remove the mainboard
****VIDEO OR PICTURES NEEDED*****
2. Perform the mod as follows: Replace the xOM5 resistor from the top position to the bottom position.
*OR: remove the xOM5 resistor and jumper the center pads of xOM5 to the center pads of xOM0 or xOM3.
Thanks to ChauncyG for the device board.
3. reassemble the phone.
Special Instructions
This replaces the battery charging sequence. The normal battery charging sequence can be activated by holding power for 4 seconds.
To turn on the device, and operate in normal mode, you must hold the power button for 5 seconds.
3 button Download mode works as usual, however you must not have the S5PC110 drivers installed on the computer. You can use your custom rom menu option, adb reboot download, or use a terminal to "reboot download". 301Kohm Factory Mode JIGs work as well, but you must press power to bypass the S5PC110 mode.
To enter recovery mod, press and hold power for 3 seconds, then hold volume+ and volume- until the screen comes on then release.
Conclusion
Congratulations. You now have a device which works like a KIT-S5PC110 with an OM Value of 29. Now get to developing some serious custom software. See here for setting up the UART output http://forum.xda-developers.com/show....php?t=1235219
reading material
Creating your own Samsung Bootloaders: http://forum.xda-developers.com/show....php?t=1233273
KIT-S5PC110 manual: http://www.mediafire.com/?94krzvvxksvmuxh
how to use DNW: http://tinyurl.com/dnw-how-to
Flash using openOCD and DNW: http://www.arm9board.net/wiki/index....penOCD_and_DNW
another DNW example: http://www.boardset.com/products/mv6410.php
ODroid dev center: http://dev.odroid.com/projects/uboot/wiki/#s-7.2
drivers and utilities
This will be an ever expanding list
Windows Drivers http://forum.xda-developers.com/atta...7&d=1312590673
Windows Download Tool DNW: http://forum.xda-developers.com/atta...8&d=1312590673
Windows Command Line Download Tool: http://forum.xda-developers.com/show...3&postcount=27
Linux DNW Utility: http://dev.odroid.com/projects/uboot/wiki/#s-7.2
firmware
One-Click Resurrector: http://forum.xda-developers.com/atta...5&d=1314762609
Bootloader Hello World by Rebellos http://forum.xda-developers.com/atta...7&d=1314105521
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http://forum.xda-developers.com/attachment.php?
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This trick saved my phone one mounth ago...but you must be really good in soldering
Sent from my SGH-T959 using XDA
mikka06 said:
This trick saved my phone one mounth ago...but you must be really good in soldering
Sent from my SGH-T959 using XDA
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yeah, and I lost U$100 because i have not seen this tutorial before....
I hard bricked my vibrant about 6 months ago, Odin, completely my fault. I hadn't seen the unbrick/mod yet so I sent it to Josh at mobile tech videos for JTAG. I came across this mod a day after I shipped. I sent Josh a message and he did the mod for me. Outstanding service, I highly recommend it if you love to flash. Don't wait until bricked. If you don't feel comfortable tearing apart your phone and soldering go to mobiletechvideos, quick professional service.
Vibrant
Ics Passion
Sent from my SGH-T959 using xda premium
I'm afraid your xda links are all broken, 404, not found.
cashmundy said:
I'm afraid your xda links are all broken, 404, not found.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yeah,links are broken,later on ill try to find mirrors on google,
You can help me if you want to.
Really dead vibrant
Are you sure it can get a really dead vibrant back?
I've tried the button combo,the 301k jig nothing get it into download mode. It just completely dark no sign of live.
vtp said:
Are you sure it can get a really dead vibrant back?
I've tried the button combo,the 301k jig nothing get it into download mode. It just completely dark no sign of live.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It worked for all the people who tried that. I did it also and saved my vibrant. But you need perfect soldering skills or try to find someone to do it.
Sent from my SGH-T959 using XDA
help?
Hello friends
I tried to understand the instructions but I could not understand anything
Is anyone ready to upload a picture that explain it better?
how?
mikka06 said:
This trick saved my phone one mounth ago...but you must be really good in soldering
Sent from my SGH-T959 using XDA
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
can you explain how to do the mod?
you have to change a position of 1 resistor on the mainboard of your phone,
then install new drivers and the programs on your pc to get the special features of it.
Can you plz post high quality pics of this mode
khan_frd2002 said:
Can you plz post high quality pics of this mode
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
i can give you the thread links that i followed when i did this trick. It's so small as it's really hard to get a high quality picture. Just read every page, i remember some guys posted some usefull pictures
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=1273083
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?p=17858853#post17858853
Wish I wouldve sweden this some time ago. I'm on my second vibrant, geesh..
Before to procede, remember all electrial component can have fault so exist warranty. If you want, procede at your own risk loosing warranty
For this tutorial is raccomanded professional leadfree soldering iron
i solved my gps problem, it is hardware problem, so no settings, gpsaids and no other solution helped me.
Problem is caused by bad gnd conductivity between mainboard and antenna. It is conduced by:
1) CONDUCTIVE GUMMY (suggest me better name if you have ) This kind of rubber was used for old nokia 8210 for connect display to mainboard. It was the mayor fault for nokia 8210.
2) back cover gps antenna: When phone become hot, antenna go back and not good touch with motherboard. Then, when phone isn't hot, gps antenna remains with a kind of "hole"
First try software fix (it not helped me) then try my solution
Solution:
Attention: it will avoid warranty, do it at your own risk, i'm not responsable for any fault.
SOLUTION:
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here is antenna contact not used for my european i9000
Please check by yourself if it touch with your variant antenna,
if it is not used, you can remove and solder where was rubber
Now gps signal is immediate for me
Best regards
Leeno
The first picture is before and the second afterwards?
i moved in this third post the other solution,
it is easyer then solution in first post but i not like it because is not clean
Attention: it will avoid warranty, do it at your own risk, i'm not responsable for any fault.
For solve it i just removed rubber and soldered antenna to gps gnd mainboard like the picture.
Attention: if you use unprotected wire like picture, make sure it touch only gnd, not other components or you can damage phone.
Gnd require hard conductivity so
DO NOT USE VERY THIN WIRE
Ping-Pong said:
you csn also use gps files extracted from nexuss gingerbread
i think those have not changed in GRK39F
but i will be checking that today
ics.samsung-updates.com/stockplusmod/GPS_GRK39C.zip
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
software can't fix hardware issues,
your posted file will only update settings and north american server for gps
i fixed i9000 froyo with my fix
Looks interesting. Might give this a go thanks.
Sent from my Android shizzle!
Where do you find the "third antenna contact"? I guess there are three and I do not want to take the second ...
here is antenna contact not used for my european i9000
Please check by yourself if it touch with your variant antenna
I thought that the other connection was for GPS
What is the reason of this post? This fix is well known. A search might be helpful from time to time. The only useful info in this thread is the fact that you figured out that the other antenna is not used.
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=878970
Besides yours there is also another post that does the same thing. Takes you to the first one http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=1043034
So no need for another one.
Trak-X said:
What is the reason of this post? This fix is well known. A search might be helpful from time to time. The only useful info in this thread is the fact that you figured out that the other antenna is not used.
So no need for another one.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
No, sorry, you're wrong.
THIS fix were not known at all! The thread you linked just refer to pull up the OTHER contact of the gps antenna, not the RUBBER ONE, which actually is the source of the problem.
So the next time please read carefully before suggesting someone a search.
This thread is VERY USEFUL! This man deserves all the praise and should be acknowledged of the REAL FINAL GPS FIX which turned my phone into what should have been since the first day!
I was skeptical to say the least.
but this time, I have to admit: this solution works INSANELY WELL.
I made my own modded version, though. I removed the third unused antenna contact, and placed it over the conductive rubbed. no soldering involved. pressure keeps the contact in position and enhances the connection between antenna and mobo, similar but more effective than the other older solutions.
btw, I also changed server from europe.ntp.org to xtra1.gpsonextra.net, just like in my old acer liquid which locks really instactly.
connecting now in seconds in my living room (!!!) with 7 to 9 satellites. awesome. never happened before.
you deserve a huge thanks.
I did it this morning. I removed the rubber and soldered a wire between the contacts. I never had such a signal on my i9000, the gps works perfectly.
Huge thanks from here too.
anyone can post a picture of the contacts to connect on european i9000 ?
any screenshot of gps test ?
thx a lot to everyone
oracula whedka
wowww:good:
duffymm said:
anyone can post a picture of the contacts to connect on european i9000 ?
any screenshot of gps test ?
thx a lot to everyone
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
pictures in first post are self explaining.
I did not bother soldering anything. Just removed the unused antenna with some tweezers and placed it on top of the existing conductive rubber (but reversed upside down, though, to keep it level), I used a tiny bit of duct tape to hold it in place and to be sure it does not touch any other contact on the mobo.
I cannot exclude to solder it or use some conductive glue in the future, anyway, it sounds safer.
I can confirm this is THE solution. I am really astonished.
duffymm said:
anyone can post a picture of the contacts to connect on european i9000 ?
any screenshot of gps test ?
thx a lot to everyone
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Sent from my GT-I9000 using Tapatalk 2
I use tutorial from first page, remove useles antenna connector and ruber. Put connector on rubber place (after clean connect) and gently fix with hot glue. After assemble phone use gps test but speed is same slow like before first fix time 03:06. I check contacts and all god.
@lcampori where u change from europe.ntp.org to xtra1.gpsonextra.net ?
(sry for bad english)
trut said:
I use tutorial from first page, remove useles antenna connector and ruber. Put connector on rubber place (after clean connect) and gently fix with hot glue. After assemble phone use gps test but speed is same slow like before first fix time 03:06. I check contacts and all god.
@lcampori where u change from europe.ntp.org to xtra1.gpsonextra.net ?
(sry for bad english)[/QUOT
gps.conf in /system/etc, you need a rooted phone the mod this file.
default server in sgs1 is "north-america.pool.ntp.org" which supposedly is not correct for european users. following suggestion here at xda, I changed the line to "europe.pool.ntp.org" months ago, and now after givig a look to gps.conf in the acer liquid to "xtra1.gpsonextra.net" and live happily with that.
I do not think this is the point, anyway. My old acer liquid uses "xtra1.gpsonextra.net" and locks sats in the blink of an eye, ditto for my wife's htc desire which has "pool.ntp.org". Any software related mod could be just placebo.
as far as I know (google search..), hot glue is not conductive. if so, you are not fixing anything. but I might be wrong.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I use hot glue just from side to fix connect in place and check with multimeter all good. In my gps.conf i change from "pool.ntp.org" to "europe.pool.ntp.org" voila first fix time 00:31 and also me not use any help like wifi or mobile data just clean gps. However this fix work...
Hmmm....
I will give it a try soon.
Thanks man!!!
Gesendet von meinem GT-I9000 mit Tapatalk 2
Contents :-
1. Specification
2. Product Function
3. Exploded View and Parts list
4. MAIN Electrical Parts List
5. Level 1 Repair ( Software un-bricking)
6. Level 2 Repair
7. Level 3 Repair
8. Flow Chart of Troubleshooting
Power On Failure
Initial Failure
Abnormal charging part
NO SIM Failure
Microphone Part
Speaker Part
Receiver Part
Blue Tooth & WiFi is not working
FM Radio does not work
LCD is still off after Power ON
Touch Screen does not work
Camera function does not work
GSM Failure
WCDMA Band 1
WCDMA Band 2
9. Schematic Diagrams
10. Concept and Main features
11. Block Diagram
12. Component and Location
13. Dis assembly and Assembly
14. Trouble shooting
15. Calibration
download and enjoy 22.2 MB
http://www.4shared.com/office/6tdZOd1J/I9000_Technician_Manual.html
http://www.mediafire.com/?or3hgpu1bvjf103
Check this out!You , YES! you are an " Android ". Not your phone but U.
You Must watch this documentary concerning your privacy Terms & Conditions we had agreed to, by using a PC or Smartphone
How to say Thank you? If you find any post helpful on XDA, please click on the Thanks button
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If you are using XDA App or Tapatalk, long press on the post and select :good: Thanks Its easier to give "Feedback" in this manner than make an additional post.
Any mirrors that do not reqiure signon?
skibbi_pl said:
Any mirrors that do not reqiure signon?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Nope, signing on is not a big deal actually, as a member it allows you to download anything else you need by searching that site and also upload what you want.
anyway..i will try to upload it elsewhere, as soon as i can sign up to them
thanks... Especially for the mediafire link
Sent from my GT-I9000 using XDA
madushan92 said:
thanks... Especially for the mediafire link
Sent from my GT-I9000 using XDA
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
you are welcome to it
Thank you
Thank you very much. I gave it a read and page 96,97 & 98 relate to component level information and is relevant to my question.
Although, I couldn't find a part number for the motherboard as a whole. May be I should provide more information about the problem I'm facing to help narrow things down.
After a pretty(very) bumpy ride, I noticed that the phone had switched off and wasn't coming back on. I assumed that I had damaged the phone. I put it on charge and a few hours later, to my surprise, it came back on. Ever since, I've been facing these problems.
a. Phone consumes battery whilst in switched off mode. I'm talking ~40% drop overnight.
b. 2g works only via 64K SIM cards. Phone disconnects from the network when I set it to 2g when on a 32K SIM.
c. Wi-Fi doesn't work - I get the obtaining IP address error. From the battery usage stats, I can tell that the Wi-Fi unit is drawing power.
Folks at the Samsung service centre suggested that I replace the entire motherboard. It costs ~ £120, which is a little too steep and much to invest on a 2 yr old phone. Spares and peripherals usually carry a nasty mark up, which is why I'm trying to get one from the makers or others who are willing to sell it for lesser.
Edit: Stock ROM fixed the Wi-Fi issue.
vinu_h said:
Thank you very much. I gave it a read and page 96,97 & 98 relate to component level information and is relevant to my question.
Although, I couldn't find a part number for the motherboard as a whole. May be I should provide more information about the problem I'm facing to help narrow things down.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Pages 8 to 16 gives the part and code numbers, although, these are not detailed, without them, you will have a hard time trying to buy online...best thing to do is let a technician at your end, check it and let him tell you what parts you need and than you try and purchase them online with part numbers
from what you are saying it could be a simple cracked board ...that may need some reconnection as it is obviously shorting causing power drain even when in OFF mode .
off course technicians can be tricky, so may need to find someone you can trust
xsenman said:
Pages 8 to 16 gives the part and code numbers, although, these are not detailed, without them, you will have a hard time trying to buy online...best thing to do is let a technician at your end, check it and let him tell you what parts you need and than you try and purchase them online with part numbers
from what you are saying it could be a simple cracked board ...that may need some reconnection as it is obviously shorting causing power drain even when in OFF mode .
off course technicians can be tricky, so may need to find someone you can trust
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You're right. Finding a trustworthy technician can be tricky. Even when I do, they won't offer any kind of assurance. £120 with a guarantee is starting to appear more attractive than £50 with none.
I was lazy. It's listed on page 9. This must be the part number of the motherboard - QMP01 A/S ASSY-PBA MAIN_GT-I9000B,BRAZ (SVC) GH82-04996A
Online search of that part# doesn't help in anyway whatsoever.
Where is the internal memory located on hardware
can anyone tell me if internal memory of the phone ( where the recovery, rom , bootscreen and so on ) is located in MoviNand piece of hardware on the motherboard ?
laurentiudll said:
can anyone tell me if internal memory of the phone ( where the recovery, rom , bootscreen and so on ) is located in MoviNand piece of hardware on the motherboard ?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
[Tutorial][A.I.O Rescue & Recovery] My Secure Digital (SD card) Storage
look for the Embedded SD or iNAND as shown in the image
Check this out! Links to useful Guides and " Banned " Documentaries
thanks for the file, great to have around for reference
Hello, has anyone got this motherboard?
It is hard to find a replacement, board is CHS-503DSP v2 (ALPSFF5000-8227L chipset), motherboard is working well, aswell as Android, but has no sound coming from it to speakers.
I can't get it to work.
Please reply if anyone has solution how to fix no sound issue.
When unit is in car, Android starts , all apps and radio turns on but when out to speakers I hear only buzzing sound and noise.
Thanks.
(upper board is motherboard with core board attached to it, lower is lcd screen board)
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You could try to output sound via usb soundcard to an external amplifier instead of a new mainboard.
blue_one said:
You could try to output sound via usb soundcard to an external amplifier instead of a new mainboard.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I would like to fix the motherboard but thanks for suggestion
Anton TNT said:
I would like to fix the motherboard but thanks for suggestion
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
What do you expect to get from the forum?
If you want to fix that, you need to have the right tools to measure that like an oscilloscope, and the knowledge to read the board pin-out.
You can solder out the amplifier module and put in the same (or at least a similar with the same pin-out as the one which is installed.
If that helps... no one knows, because even something else can be the reason for this failure.
At least you should test with a single tone, may be 400khz, to measure the in- and output of the amplifier module.
Famous words: Take it to someone who knows how to measure the electronics, like a TV-electronic repair shop, if you find someone who is willing to repair that unit. I fear no one will do that, not even for cash money.
Best tip: Take it and throw it into the bin.
It could be a lot of things, including software.
I think that I'd check the obvious things first.
Get the pinout of the amplifier IC. Check power, shutdown signal, mute signal.
See if you can even see any audio on the input pins or whether you can inject any signal with just a probe and your body noise.
Renate said:
It could be a lot of things, including software.
I think that I'd check the obvious things first.
Get the pinout of the amplifier IC. Check power, shutdown signal, mute signal.
See if you can even see any audio on the input pins or whether you can inject any signal with just a probe and your body noise.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I've tried all options so far with voltage multimeter. Voltages, rerouting directly on pins on amp (that goes on speakers) etc.
Sound is coming out but only noise , I mean noise like volume is up to max and you can hear buzzing sound, when antenna unpluged from device sound is distorted a starts to crackle.
That are the simptoms.
If anyone can help with their knowledge besides going to service shop thanks, if not it will go in trash bin.
Only damage I can see is one transistor in a middle of board that has burned, but I have soldered it and connected again with board.
It is giving voltage out and working.
Software isn't issue here as 8227L chipset works with variety of updates (installed and proved).
Replace capacitor c122 and resistor r33.
(,just kidding).
Sounds like audio processing/switch is dead Jim, but not as we know it.
Experience and the ability to reverse engineer is the key skill required to resolve this issue.
@rigattoni gives the best advice here. No one has a crystal ball.
Good luck, but it is a very big long shot asking people here to figure this out for you
Anton TNT said:
Only damage I can see is one transistor in a middle of board that has burned...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Now wait a minute.
You never mentioned anything about a transistor being fried.
You didn't indicate it in the photo either.
Edit: Also, it's might not be a transistor, it could be a LDO.
Renate said:
Now wait a minute.
You never mentioned anything about a transistor being fried.
You didn't indicate it in the photo either.
Edit: Also, it's might not be a transistor, it could be a LDO.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
What is LDO Jim? beam me up Scotty (clarify)
(Low DropOut) voltage regulator.
Anton TNT said:
What is LDO Jim?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
(Low DropOut) voltage regulator.
Renate said:
(Low DropOut) voltage regulator.
(Low DropOut) voltage regulator.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
And where is that on board , what shape and figure
Anton TNT said:
And where is that on board , what shape and figure
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Why don't you tell me?
You said that a "transistor" burned. Was it a LDO?
Both look the same. Read the numbers off it. Show a good photo of it.
Renate said:
Why don't you tell me?
You said that a "transistor" burned. Was it a LDO?
Both look the same. Read the numbers off it. Show a good photo of it.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Here it is.. but I noticed this burned transistor or what ever it is called later...
It is on central side of motherboard close to output chip TDA (look at first picture of motherboard)
I soldered some wire on other not burned side (after that it gives some voltage out like 1-3 Volts) but same result no sound.
I ordered a same little transistor (three leg) , will try to solder that on place when arrive.
The rest Android and all other stuff works well , JUST NO SOUND coming from device, but funny thing when I attach a USB audio output , Android turns to Headset mode and music plays, but only music no FM tuner / radio app.
Trying also with flashing of memory, to get ROOT, and then to clear cache of device from root directory, but my PC with WIN 10 doesn't recognize device and with all DA COM / ADB drivers installed and step by step video online.
Anton TNT said:
I soldered some wire on other not burned side...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Doing arbitrary things in a deterministic universe rarely yields results.
Why do you believe that to be a transistor?
What transistor did you order? And why?
First thing, get some 91% isopropyl alcohol and some cotton swabs (ear cleaners).
Clean up that board so you can see something.
Find the part number of the 20 pin IC there. Get the data sheet.
With the unit off check for continuity between the gold pad on the little photo to any of the pins on that IC.
On top... To burn this part, there is always a reason why it burned. Only exchange this part may not fix the radio. You need to find the reason and fix that first.
Sorry, but reading your postings in here, I fear that you will not be able to fix that by yourself.
rigattoni said:
On top... To burn this part, there is always a reason why it burned. Only exchange this part may not fix the radio. You need to find the reason and fix that first.
Sorry, but reading your postings in here, I fear that you will not be able to fix that by yourself.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
There is not much people arround to fix Android head units, so I'm asking help here , please understand me, as I have a little knwledge of android boards, PC yes , Android no !
If you are feeling helpfull help in any way but not in a terms of critisicm.
Thanks.
I will fix that in any way I can. That includes fixing with a help of electronic engineer or someone that knows what to do. As I mentioned only buzzing sound is coming from this board and when transferred thru USB DAC chip sounds go out so problem is some joint or this blown chip / transistor. We will see...
But I agree only on one, It is hard to do anything with no diagrams of this board.
Renate said:
Doing arbitrary things in a deterministic universe rarely yields results.
Why do you believe that to be a transistor?
What transistor did you order? And why?
First thing, get some 91% isopropyl alcohol and some cotton swabs (ear cleaners).
Clean up that board so you can see something.
Find the part number of the 20 pin IC there. Get the data sheet.
With the unit off check for continuity between the gold pad on the little photo to any of the pins on that IC.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have done that , and cleaned it and then soldered a piece of tungsten soldering wire on gold plates when joints are.
I'm surprised , I tought that you saw upper picture with cleaned spot and soldered wire, but obvously you have not. If you can't see open as attachment and zoom in.
Anton TNT said:
I'm surprised , I thought that you saw upper picture with cleaned spot and soldered wire, but obvously you have not.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
As far as I can see you have posted 2 attached photos.
In your original post you have the large photo with motherboard and LCD.
In post #13 you show the burned spot.
If the photo in your first post shows a cleaned burnt spot then you have neglected to mention that in your first post.
Long distance repair is difficult enough without somebody not bothering to relate important information.
Renate said:
As far as I can see you have posted 2 attached photos.
In your original post you have the large photo with motherboard and LCD.
In post #13 you show the burned spot.
If the photo in your first post shows a cleaned burnt spot then you have neglected to mention that in your first post.
Long distance repair is difficult enough without somebody not bothering to relate important information.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
READ THIS LINE , I HAVE WROTE THIS BEFORE :
"Here it is.. but I noticed this burned transistor or what ever it is called later...
It is on central side of motherboard close to output chip TDA (look at first picture of motherboard)I soldered some wire on other not burned side (after that it gives some voltage out like 1-3 Volts) but same result no sound."
No matter , let's continue, happy New Year to you all and best wishes...
Yesterday I had a glimpse of success regarding sound and amplifier.
Maybe can anyone explain this...
After installing POWERAMP EQ app from playstore a few seconds of music played on main speakers, I could hear this, but in a sudden it stopped.