Database Users

[Q] stuck power button?

Recently my Blackstone has been having fits of trying bring up the Quick Shutdown menu. It sometimes goes an hour or two without bother, then once a minute, then sometimes just does it repeatedly, culminating in a
"no storage to create bitmap"
error when it runs out of RAM trying to apply it, I imagine.
I'm using a recent Energy ROM about a month old.
The only thing I can think of is that the power button up top has been damaged, and is sometimes sticking - tapping or otherwise playing with it seems to have no effect on whether this happens or not... as you can quite imagine it's making the device barely usable.
Has anyone replaced a power button, or stripped it to clean it? Can you get the button separately? What's the assembly actually like? Any thoughts at all?
Just wondering, before I end up with a small box of bits...

Well that wasn't so bad.
Found a pictorial guide on YouTube and got stuck in.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=G3mLanWubZc
A miniature *driver or a micro flat head will do most, plus some larger sizes for levering plastic. Not the easiest or most obvious disassembly, but I spend a lot of time stripping laptops so not too bad.
I stripped as far as removing the board behind the power switch, exposing it as much as possible, and removing it's spill cover. As it's a sealed push-to-make type microswitch, there's not much you can do other than:
1. clean all around it and scrub with a toothbrush.
2. apply pressure to the switch to make contact, hold it there, and make very gentle, small circular movements. There's just enough give in the mounting film for this, effectively allowing you to scrub the interior contacts, and possibly dislodge any crap or corrosion that may have been there.
Button clicks are noticeably better, I reassembled, and issue gone so far.
Hope that helps for anyone else searching.

[How To] Fix Blank/Garbled Screen Issues

Last night my Transformer started acting up. I was browsing Facebook, and then I hit the back case just right while setting it down and the screen went all green and purple (garbled/glitchy). I kept pressing it and eventually the screen completely shut off, though the backlight was still on.
In this small "how to", I will show you what you need to reconnect to get the screen back to operational status.
There are two sets of tear down pics for the TF that I found. One comes from XDA member hybridau, found here and the other is Tech Republic. I'll be linking to pics from Tech Republic along with my own as they were a little more informative.
Take the device apart. Torx T5 is needed for the bottom. Work your way from the end they show in the picture here. Then, press down hard (but be gentle ) on the side until the bezel disconnects from the base (pic). Next, gradually work your way around until you get to the dock connector. I used a thin piece of plastic to go around the edges, but I've heard a guitar pic works well (I don't own one). Note: for me, the dock connector was the most difficult part of the bezel to remove.
Remove the four screws around the screen area and then the three around both long sides (six total).
Turn the device over (screen facing down) and remove the back cover (pic).
Now, look for the piece in the pics below. The ribbon needs to be pushed all the way in where you can't see any of the connectors. Mine was visibly out of place. It won't be fully out of place. I used my fingernails to gently move it back into place one side at a time. You may want to try something else... it's not the easiest thing to move back since there is tape that was/is supposed to hold the thing in place.
Full device view:
That's it! I turned it on while it was apart to make sure screen worked, but that's up to you. Put it back together the reverse way... much easier putting it back together. I put the bezel back on the opposite direction I took it off.
Little background on the device:
The device has been dropped a few times while in a protective case or when tossing onto the bed (no visible signs anywhere on the device -- seriously, the device was thrown and dropped more during shipping than it was in my possession), so I called ASUS and they issued an RMA on it. Of course, if the issues are caused by you (dropping), you have to pay. Regardless, shippings going to cost some money.
Thus, I took it upon myself to fix it. I knew it had to be a ribbon that was disconnected because I doubted it was any kind of screen problem. I had also read in another thread here that that when they sent their TF off the return said all the techs did was reattach the ribbon. What a waste of time, money, and effort?!
Anyway... hope this helps someone with the same issues I had!

Thank you very much for the details. It doesn't effect me but I have read several threads where people are having this issue. I am asking a mod to sticky this for awhile so it doesn't get lost

Thanks! I just hope it helps someone else contemplating doing what I did. I almost wasted time and money sending it to Texas for repairs!

[GUIDE] Reinforcing/repairing your mushy/broken power button

Hey thinkpadpaders,
Before we get anywhere. If your button is acting weird or is broken, [blink][explosion]this should be covered by your warranty[/explosion][/blink]. I've heard of turn around times from 2 days to 2 weeks or more. If you still want to do this yourself, then read on.
So, my power button drove me nuts last week when it stopped responding. After some research on the problem I ended up fixing it in house and relatively easily.
The cause of the irresponsive button is the physical movement of the internal button component. It's poorly held in place and eventually it tends to move around and then entirely fall off during normal use. Here's some guides that will help you open your thinkpadpad and repair a non working button or fix and enforce a mushy one. Note that this is probably going to void your warranty, though everything up to epoxying your button down is clean and pretty much undetectable (there aren't any visible "warranty void if broken" stickers). Also, this will take some amount of soldering skills. Basically, I (and anyone I reference) am not responsible for scratched cases, bricked devices, burnt fingers, completely epoxied/glued units, the apocalypse, etc.
Moving on to the fun stuff! Please be sure to read through this post to limit any surprises you may find in the process.
Tools you will need:
A thinkpadpad
This guide and its references
Small phillips screwdriver
Plastic case prying tool
Soldering equipment (for repairing)
Epoxy (for enforcing)
Most of you should be at least halfway set. The first step is to get your thinkpad open.
Opening the thinkpad.
There's already some great guides that go through opening the TPT in order to install a 3G capable modem:
Opening the thinkpad to install a 3G card
The basic steps are:
Removing the four face buttons
Removing the two screws underneath the face buttons
Carefully separating the two halves of the tablet
I'll cover some helpful tips in this post to help you with the process. After reading them follow the previously linked guide carefully to open your tablet.
To keep you from damaging the button's clips, notice how they are attached to the tablet.
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The semicircle tabs pry off like a hinge. Once they are free you can just lift the button right off.
When separating the clips to open the case, use a plastic tool to keep from scratching the thinkpad. I found it easiest to start at the usb port.
Image-left) shows me starting at the usb port with my tool (I just used a divider from a tackle/jewelry box). Image-right) I am carefully sliding the tool around the TPT's edges to undo all of the clips.
Here's an overexposed shot of one of the clips. It's the type you simply push in to undo. I barely had to use any force to separate the halves.
An important thing to remember: the touchscreen is connected to the bottom half's motherboard. These (two) connections are on the left side of the thinkpad.
Slowly open the thinkpad, like a book from, the right.
If you do happen to yank out these connections, they should easily plug back in. See the previous guide about doing this.
Reattaching the button.
If your button is only mushy, but still responding, you can probably skip this step of reattaching the button. If you feel like re-soldering the points, then feel free to do so.
Here's a photo of my broken button:
View attachment 917192
You're going to put the button back into position so that its contacts (opposite of the white button) are lined up against the contact points on the board (the pink points within the green box in the photo above). Here's an annotated picture of the placed button from a much better camera and photographer, Daniel Lane (his cool photo site):
You can see how the button can pivot off these solder points and eventually break. Solder the points as specified in the photo. Test to make sure your points are good. Hold down the internal button to keep it from moving and try to boot using the external button.
Reinforcing the button with epoxy.
As you probably saw in the previous image from Daniel Lane, he recommends applying epoxy to the button's side posts. Normally these posts would be soldered down underneath the board to secure it in place. You can attempt to either re-solder these posts (if they ever were attached), apply epoxy to them as Daniel suggests (the next safer method), or apply epoxy to more of the button (which I have done).
A few important notes about epoxy:
-It's some serious stuff. Dont get it anywhere you dont want it. ESPECIALLY on the moving part of the button.
-If its a more fluid type, it may not stay where you want it.
-Mix it very well. For at least one minute. You don't want to be stuck with a tacky epoxy job.
I chose to apply epoxy to the sides, back, and top of the button. Do this carefully. Make sure not to let it get on any moving parts. Make a barrier if you have to, or be safe and use Daniel Lane's method and apply a smaller amount. Here is my epoxied button (warning, we are going back to crappy pictures!):
You can substitute hot glue for the epoxy if you'd like an even safer application. Though its bond is definitely not as strong as the epoxy's.
Let the epoxy cure for as long as its instructions states, then close up your thinkpad tablet. Be sure not to break any clips in this process.
Final step.
Enjoy clicking your power button. Or... something more productive.
UPDATE: Sometime last week (4/13/2012) one of my volume buttons started to go. Luckily I caught it before it completely came off like the power button did. If you open up your TPT to repair the power button, I'd recommend epoxying the volume buttons while you're at it. It's a much easier job while the solder points are still in place.

thanks for your guide !
My button isn't broken yet, but it's good to know that it's possible to fix it by ourself

Thanks for the guide! This is awesome! My button isn't broken (yet) so I'm thinking of reinforcing it soon to prevent any breakage.
Again thanks for the detailed guide. I probably won't get around to it until a couple weeks as I'm swamped with school. But I will update my results when I do.
Cheers.

Excellent!! Thanks. Well done, with just a modicum of humor. "You don't want to be stuck with a tacky epoxy job." Good job!!

While you're inside there, put a 3g modem in the pci slot to convert your wifi tab to a 3g tab.

obscure.detour said:
My button isn't broken (yet) so I'm thinking of reinforcing it soon to prevent any breakage.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I think that's a good idea. It seems that even after Lenovo repairs the RMAs they just solder those three points, just like it was when you bought it. That's why even the repaired pads seem to break.
toenail_flicker said:
Excellent!! Thanks. Well done, with just a modicum of humor. "You don't want to be stuck with a tacky epoxy job." Good job!!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Haha. No pun was intended, either of them. But I'm glad you enjoyed it anyway.
rangercaptain said:
While you're inside there, put a 3g modem in the pci slot to convert your wifi tab to a 3g tab.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Not a bad idea. I ordered a sata/usb adapter for that slot so I can explore other possibilties :
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=1512480

Does anyone have a source for the button you solder onto the board? I repaired mine myself a few weeks ago, but the actual button definitely seems a bit less "clicky" than before. I believe I might have gotten it too close to the soldering iron.
Anapmac said:
Not a bad idea. I ordered a sata/usb adapter for that slot so I can explore other possibilties :
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=1512480
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'm very interested in seeing what you can fit in there. It sure would be nice to find a tiny usb gps that would fit in there and lock on faster than the built in one .

Just wanted to reiterate someone's recommendation of epoxying the volume buttons while you're in there. My volume up button went out last week (WE NEED MORE POWER!!!).
opnsrcaddict said:
Does anyone have a source for the button you solder onto the board?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Did you ever find a suitable replacement?

Great thread. My power button was starting to go, it got mushy. Cracked it open and the back three solder joints were still in tact, but the front reinforcement was broken.
Epoxied the [email protected]#$ out of it, and it's perfect now, stronger than it was originally I'd say! Also did the volume buttons while I was at it.

While You have Your tab open and the epoxe mixed. Resolder and strenghten the micro usb as well. It will come loose later....

Thank you so much for you great instructional guide with the very helpful pictures. I was going to try and get Lenovo to fix my volume+ key after it wouldn't work anymore but I found this before it. The process of fixing it was really simple. My volume+ button thing on the inside fell off when I barely touched it so I thought I had to solder it first but then it looked really hard to solder in the small area as I never done that before. I just put it in it's place and tested to see if it would work without soldering and it did. I then just epoxied it while holding it down tight until it solidified. I also epoxied the other volume thing and the power button one while I was at it. Now I feel safe that they won't break so easily now. So far everything works well. Thank you again.

Finally got around to popping my TPT open and reinforcing my power and volume buttons. I've been nervous about my power button for some time so finally decided to do it before this semester starts.
This guide was very helpful
Here is a complete picture of volume/power buttons reinforced.
EDIT: Wanted to update the post and let everyone know that my power button now clicks on every press now! No more mushy power button

Anyway we can get a sticky on this thread?

Excellent guide. I just may have to do this since I need that power button to be in working order so I can go into recovery.
TS

Thanks to your instructions my Tablet is back!
Basically just glued with epoxy - For soldering jobs you need a tiny front on your iron.
I also glued the volume buttons and tried to strenghten AUX, USB, HDMI.
Problem was that between these pieces little plastic pieces ftom the screen go down and hold the front panel.
I was not able to close the device properly and I had to remove the epoxy from these places.
So don't think you can reinforce the plugs on underneath the buttons.
Next step will be upgrading to 3G!

Thank you so much for this it saved my power and volume buttons ....this should be stickyed

nice guide...
how bout ideapad k1?
i dont even know how to open the case...

thank u very much~~
Anapmac said:
Hey thinkpadpaders,
Before we get anywhere. If your button is acting weird or is broken, [blink][explosion]this should be covered by your warranty[/explosion][/blink]. I've heard of turn around times from 2 days to 2 weeks or more. If you still want to do this yourself, then read on.
So, my power button drove me nuts last week when it stopped responding. After some research on the problem I ended up fixing it in house and relatively easily.
The cause of the irresponsive button is the physical movement of the internal button component. It's poorly held in place and eventually it tends to move around and then entirely fall off during normal use. Here's some guides that will help you open your thinkpadpad and repair a non working button or fix and enforce a mushy one. Note that this is probably going to void your warranty, though everything up to epoxying your button down is clean and pretty much undetectable (there aren't any visible "warranty void if broken" stickers). Also, this will take some amount of soldering skills. Basically, I (and anyone I reference) am not responsible for scratched cases, bricked devices, burnt fingers, completely epoxied/glued units, the apocalypse, etc.
Moving on to the fun stuff! Please be sure to read through this post to limit any surprises you may find in the process.
Tools you will need:
A thinkpadpad
This guide and its references
Small phillips screwdriver
Plastic case prying tool
Soldering equipment (for repairing)
Epoxy (for enforcing)
Most of you should be at least halfway set. The first step is to get your thinkpad open.
Opening the thinkpad.
There's already some great guides that go through opening the TPT in order to install a 3G capable modem:
Opening the thinkpad to install a 3G card
The basic steps are:
Removing the four face buttons
Removing the two screws underneath the face buttons
Carefully separating the two halves of the tablet
I'll cover some helpful tips in this post to help you with the process. After reading them follow the previously linked guide carefully to open your tablet.
To keep you from damaging the button's clips, notice how they are attached to the tablet.
View attachment 923254
The semicircle tabs pry off like a hinge. Once they are free you can just lift the button right off.
When separating the clips to open the case, use a plastic tool to keep from scratching the thinkpad. I found it easiest to start at the usb port.
View attachment 923330
Image-left) shows me starting at the usb port with my tool (I just used a divider from a tackle/jewelry box). Image-right) I am carefully sliding the tool around the TPT's edges to undo all of the clips.
Here's an overexposed shot of one of the clips. It's the type you simply push in to undo. I barely had to use any force to separate the halves.
View attachment 923255
An important thing to remember: the touchscreen is connected to the bottom half's motherboard. These (two) connections are on the left side of the thinkpad.
View attachment 923276
Slowly open the thinkpad, like a book from, the right.
View attachment 923277
If you do happen to yank out these connections, they should easily plug back in. See the previous guide about doing this.
Reattaching the button.
If your button is only mushy, but still responding, you can probably skip this step of reattaching the button. If you feel like re-soldering the points, then feel free to do so.
Here's a photo of my broken button:
View attachment 917192
You're going to put the button back into position so that its contacts (opposite of the white button) are lined up against the contact points on the board (the pink points within the green box in the photo above). Here's an annotated picture of the placed button from a much better camera and photographer, Daniel Lane (his cool photo site):
View attachment 923306
You can see how the button can pivot off these solder points and eventually break. Solder the points as specified in the photo. Test to make sure your points are good. Hold down the internal button to keep it from moving and try to boot using the external button.
Reinforcing the button with epoxy.
As you probably saw in the previous image from Daniel Lane, he recommends applying epoxy to the button's side posts. Normally these posts would be soldered down underneath the board to secure it in place. You can attempt to either re-solder these posts (if they ever were attached), apply epoxy to them as Daniel suggests (the next safer method), or apply epoxy to more of the button (which I have done).
A few important notes about epoxy:
-It's some serious stuff. Dont get it anywhere you dont want it. ESPECIALLY on the moving part of the button.
-If its a more fluid type, it may not stay where you want it.
-Mix it very well. For at least one minute. You don't want to be stuck with a tacky epoxy job.
I chose to apply epoxy to the sides, back, and top of the button. Do this carefully. Make sure not to let it get on any moving parts. Make a barrier if you have to, or be safe and use Daniel Lane's method and apply a smaller amount. Here is my epoxied button (warning, we are going back to crappy pictures!):
View attachment 923344
You can substitute hot glue for the epoxy if you'd like an even safer application. Though its bond is definitely not as strong as the epoxy's.
Let the epoxy cure for as long as its instructions states, then close up your thinkpad tablet. Be sure not to break any clips in this process.
Final step.
Enjoy clicking your power button. Or... something more productive.
UPDATE: Sometime last week (4/13/2012) one of my volume buttons started to go. Luckily I caught it before it completely came off like the power button did. If you open up your TPT to repair the power button, I'd recommend epoxying the volume buttons while you're at it. It's a much easier job while the solder points are still in place.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
thank u very much~~

[UPDATE]Help with small hardware hd2 fixes

Check latest post for latest info!
Ignore post #2 since it's the answer to my past question.
I'm owner of HD2 EU, i got my screen broken.
I gave phone so that it would be repaired > after it was repaired flew away to other country.
Anyway few things don't work after they have changed the screen:
1) WIFI signal is really really low(need to hold phone ~10sm close to other phone/router in order to receive signal
2) GPS is not working(checked both android/wp7 with various tweaks(f.e. gps.conf/roms....)
3) Volume- button is not working(it was working, but it broke few weeks after the screen was changed), mb there's a way to just remove the volume rocker and click the buttons with something else f.e. small pencil or smth, since i'll need those buttons only when i rewrite software, atm i can't do that due to not working volume- button)
4) 5main buttons(call/home/win key/back/call drop) are "recessed"(hopefully google translated it the right way - incase it didn't: i mean they are slightly badly positioned: towards the one side(left) they're positioned fine, towards the right side they're slightly too deep into the screen).
Can i fix any of these issues at home myself and any thoughts what exactly needs to be checked/possibly/for sure replaced?
Fixing this phone by a repair man would cost way too much, i'd rather change the phone, anyway fully working hd2 = i'm really happy.
Between i checked tutorials on disassembly(f.e. pocketno*.***/hardware-1/official-htc-hd2-disassembly-assembly-training-videos-leaked ) - everything seems fine, but the thing is, that it shows full disassemply of all parts, not sure exactly what i need to do for checking f.e. the wifi/gps cable only.
Edited:
There are 2 brass clips on the top right of the motherboard which attach to the rear case antenna. Make sure these brass clips are correctly functioning and working. There are 2 for the gps at top left big ones from memory then there are 2 at bottom for radio antenna and two at top right for wifi.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That's what i found from a topic of guy with similar story and wifi not working - guys adviced to check these parts. Is it hard to reach em? Also what can be used instead of "flange plastic stick" and also what can be used a screw driver of those special hd2 screws?
Current thoughts:
Solutions:
1) WIFI - i bet the cable is not fully connected, just slightly so it results in low electric signal = low wifi signal received by motherboard. I saw where those 2 connectors go and seems easy to reach that spot
2) GPS - the cable is not connected at all, i saw one of 2 places where the connector goes, one on motherboard top, and 2nd - i don't know?
3) Not sure if can be fixed, mb replacement part is required, not sure about idea with pen or smth like that.
4) Seems easy to be fixed, anyway it seems also that it's the hardest place to be reached, since i need to disassemply the motherboard fully, mb any though of how to do this faster?
Extra: what if i'll use blunt table knife instead of "flange plastic stick"?
Edit2: forgot to mention, when i click the volume- button - i can't feel any click(as there should be).

Without the volume down rocker/having winmo installed, you can't get into the boot loader, and without being able to get into the boot loader, there is no way to flash a radio (or even anything else ).
Sent from my HTC HD2 using XDA Premium App

eXtremeLT said:
That's what i found from a topic of guy with similar story and wifi not working - guys adviced to check these parts. Is it hard to reach em? Also what can be used instead of "flange plastic stick" and also what can be used a screw driver of those special hd2 screws?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
No, its not hard to reach them. You can use a guitare plectrum http://www.amazon.com/Planet-Waves-...503326&sr=8-1-spell&keywords=guitare+plectrum instead of "flange plastic stick".
For HD2 screws you need a torx screwdriver T5.
eXtremeLT said:
Current thoughts:
Solutions:
1) WIFI - i bet the cable is not fully connected, just slightly so it results in low electric signal = low wifi signal received by motherboard. I saw where those 2 connectors go and seems easy to reach that spot
2) GPS - the cable is not connected at all, i saw one of 2 places where the connector goes, one on motherboard top, and 2nd - i don't know?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The second one goes on the little GPS board.
eXtremeLT said:
what if i'll use blunt table knife instead of "flange plastic stick"?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You will have a few scratch in backcover. I would only use plastic parts to open the phone.
eXtremeLT said:
Edit2: forgot to mention, when i click the volume- button - i can't feel any click(as there should be).
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?p=28796701#post28796701

Wohoo! Fixed the volume- button myself, adjusted that little metal part in the spot where the volume- presses.
Anyway:
The black cable(pretty small compared to white1) i think so it's wifi/bluetooth - is ruined. One part of it is fine, but the other1 hasn't got the connector to the board, it's just tearn off(by awesome people who changed my screen). So i'll try to buy a new cable > change it > hopefully wifi will work(btw when the cable is fully disconnected, it works with that small ~10sm distance).
GPS(i guess it's the white cable):
the one side of the cable(on top of the gps antenna board) is connected fully, anyway i can't access the second end of the cable(on the backside of motherboard. Any suggestions of how to do that? I know how to do that with all phone disassembly, anyway maby some parts can be skipped?
UPDATE:
I've done something to my camera, after i fixed volume button, and removed the black cable(since it wasn't connected) - my camera is not working on any roms, camera apps just crash>quit, what cable/part do i need to check? :S i haven't disconnected any wires, only unscrewed first 4 screws near the battery > removed the backpart of the phone to access wires > removed black wire > fixed volume button :S
UPDATE2:
Disassembled and reassembled the phone - at magically the camera works I don't know what was the problem :S

Resurrect a dead M8, mate?

Hello,
I acquired an HTC one M9 to replace my dead M8 that I caused (funny story at the end). The headphone jack was wonky, and since I had disassembled and reassembled an iPhone 4S in the past I thought I could try my hand at this. The hardest part was getting the M8 out of its metal shell, and I think that's when I may have damaged something. I was able tot get it back together, but it will not power on.
I can plug it in to a charger and I see the screen come on showing that it charges and that there is a healthy power level to begin with. I can no longer find the plastic power button though, so I have to use a screwdriver tip or a spudger to press the sensor to turn it on. I've held it down for 30 seconds, 1 min, held it and the volume down button for the same amount of time, and tried the same with the volume up button, but no luck. I keep the shell off of it when I attempt to revive it, if that makes a difference (slightly easier to reach the power on button at the top). I can possibly put it back in the metal case and try to hold down all three buttons, but it's a ***** to get back out of the case.
I remember reading a few threads here or elsewhere regarding the ability to jump start a dead phone or android device, perhaps it was a Nexus 7. Is there anything like that in the development package or a standalone program where I can connect it via USB and jump start it that way? Or is it pretty much toast at this point? I see replacement power buttons and power button boards on eBay for under $20, but with my (lack of) skills I believe I'll just damage it more. What are your thought and what are my options?
(Funny story). I purchased my HTC One M8 from an eBay seller, yet when I got it, the power button was not on top but on the right. I'm thinking, "okay, didnt know I'll have to start looking for alternate M8 cases...". When I called Sprint to activate it and provided the information, they said it was actually an M9! So the reviews aren't as favorable towards the M9 as they are the M8, but I love it nonetheless. And of course if anything needs replaced I'm just going to take it to a brick-and-mortar shop to have them do it, save my spudgers for working on laptops.
Thank you for the help and advice!

emax4 said:
H
I can plug it in to a charger and I see the screen come on showing that it charges and that there is a healthy power level to begin with. I can no longer find the plastic power button though, so I have to use a screwdriver tip or a spudger to press the sensor to turn it on. I've held it down for 30 seconds, 1 min, held it and the volume down button for the same amount of time, and tried the same with the volume up button, but no luck. I keep the shell off of it when I attempt to revive it, if that makes a difference (slightly easier to reach the power on button at the top). I can possibly put it back in the metal case and try to hold down all three buttons, but it's a ***** to get back out of the case.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Unbelievable i pretty much have the same problem since yesterday.
Ok i try to write this as short as possible.
My Headphone Jack was also broken so i bought a new USB/HJ/MIC part.
After putting it in i wasnt able to load my phone anymore with the new piece so i tried back the original one with the dead HJ and it worked again. So i let it inside, contacted the seller to send me a new one. Which is not here yet, but he doesnt want the first one he sent me back, which is quite fortunate.
However yesterday i dropped my phone on high grass - it was completely dead so i couldnt call it using another phone thus i wasnt able to find it for like 1hour, it was dark, and very cold(-2°C) and also wet and i think this is how i broke my M8. But im not sure yet. I used a flashlight and apparently found it after some help of a friendly lady.
When i was back home it didnt start. Not even when charging. Then i thought myself i will try the new part again with the "broken" USB Jack and pretty funny it somehow works. BUT: Charging it turns on the screen instantly, gets me into recovery (always did that, never startet directly into CM13 which is use) but after like 15seconds it just turns off and starts again, showing me the dead battery icon at first, then the recovery. Im not able to turn it on using the power button (didnt loose mine ) it just turns it off because it starts by itself when chagrer is plugged in. I dont know what to do now: i dont have enough time inside my recovery (CWM) to reset it or something and im not really sure if it is a software or hardware problem but i speculated its the battery which is broken now. (?) However when i put the charger in to make it start, then pull it is able to hold itself for the same duration as if i was charging, but only sometimes. This really confuses me.
I dont think i broke mine during the repetetive change of the part, but im not able to exclude it in my troubleshooting. I know i didnt help you at all probably i just wanted to share my very same problem because no one else responded and i might also get help.