Related
So I has some free time and the shift was laying around...
Anyway let's get down to business.
The first part of the guide will cover the basic disassembly tips you maybe need in order to open up the casing and maybe upgrade something.
You will need a T6 screwdriver. That's all..but if you want to disassemble the display you will also need a T5.
1 Start by removing the battery, stylus, any card, sim or whatever is attached onto your device.
2 The shift's screws location is shown here.
3 You will need to remove the 3 rubber caps in order to expose the upper screws. First I thought the middle one is a connector to an external antenna. Nope, it's a screw hole.
4 After you're done with the screws you will need to remove the keyboard in order to have acces to another screw underneath it. I've found out that removing the keyboard is a bit tricky. There are no screws holding it, you simply must pull it off. Carefull not to bend it too much and begin with the upper part.
5. Underneath the keyboard you will have to remove this screw and the ribbon like cable that connects the keyboard. In order to do this, pull upwards the white blocker (shown with the green arrow) then pull off the ribbon cable (red arrow).
6. Next comes the first ugly part. You should remove the back cover on your shift in order to expose it's motherboard. Begin by placing your fingernail on the right bottom corner (or the left - you choose) and go along all the cassing in order to separate the 2 pieces of casing. You may hear a lot of ugly noises, cracks and so on... it's pretty normal, just don't abuse the casing too much. By the way, keep the shift in "laptop" mode while you do this.
7. After you remove the back cover you should see something like this.
Carefull with the hard disk. There aren't any screws fixing it to the motherboard. It's simply ...placed there, the back cover will fix it back to it's position. Don't tilt the device or the hard disk may fall and could damage the connector cable (orange ribbon). Around the hard drive you may see a black rubber insertion that protects it from certain shocks.
I've heard some of you guys asking about the dimensions inside and the possibility to replace this hard drive with another one, more thicker. THERE IS SPACE INSIDE TO DO THAT.
The silver corner and the whole sides of the rubber casing is about 2-3 mm thick in the upper portion and just about the same underneath the hard disk. It's kind of soft thus you may insert a larger hard drive without problems.
(Someone asked about a 2.5 drive replacement into the shift -- NO way dude)
8 Next you will need to remove the aluminium radiator and the fan.
You have to remove the following screws:
Note that the far right screw is somewhere deeper and you may need to move the hard-drive a little to get acces to it.
9 After you remove the aluminium heatsync you should see something like this. If you want to remove the motherboard from the chassis you should also remove the marked screw.
You may remove the ram board but carefull. It seems pretty stuck in there you will need to use some force. Here's a photo with mine removed. The metallic piece in the lower part of the picture is the card reader's casing. The card reader is made by Panasonic.
In order to remove the card reader first unscrew it (it's the last screw i was talking about 2 pictures ago). There is a ribbon connecting it to the mainboard.
here is the card reader removed:
and here is it's ribbon connector:
Here is the GPS antenna. YEP it is here. I've seen simillar antennas on bluetooth GPS mouses. This one is properly connected and seems to be powered. HTC had some GPS in mind when it designed the Shift.
10 In order to continue the disassembly you must remove 2 screws located somewhere around this area. They are under the ribbon cable connecting the hard drive to the motherboard.
Be carefull around that area. The shift's motherboard is made of 2 pieces, apparently one for the x86 side (intel processor, GMA950 video, card reader etc) and another for the WM side. The 2 parts are linked via a connector that is secured by those 2 screws. YOU WILL NEED TO BE CAREFULL WHEN REASSEMBLING THE SHIFT. IF THAT CONNECTOR ISN'T ATTACHED PROPERLY YOU'RE IN FOR A LOT OF TROUBLE AHEAD (had mine... trust me).
Here are various components.
RED - Display side connector. This is the only connector linking the 2 sides.
BLUE - Keyboard connector.
GREEN - underneath that area lies the connector that links the 2 parts of the motherboard.
YELLOW - those cables go to the wireless antenna.
Here is the Shift's internal microphone. Like I've said, i didn't know it had one.
The mic is linked to the generic "WM side" of the motherboard. Actually it isn't that simple like wm side - x86 side but as I can see these 2 parts seem to be pretty well diferenciated. One side - x86 - heatsyncs, ram, hard drive... another side - WM, aluminium caps soldered over the chips (like in most phones) microphone, gsm/gps antenna. The WLAN module is also located there.
11 If you remove the motherboard you should see something like this. The arrow marks the position of the antenna block (like the one shown in the FCC pictures).
If you want to remove the display part from the rest of the body you have to remove these screws:
2 more of these are located on the left side. Also remove them. Then the display should come out easily. Carefull not to damage the ribbon connector.
.
12 If you want to dissasemble the display you have to remove the screws from it's back plate. It should also come out easily. You should see something like this:
The hinges that enable your display to tilt are located inside the display block. Here's a photo with one of them :
now some tips about how to do this process if you want to upgrade the shift.
BE CAREFULL. The Shift's motherboard seems pretty delicate. If you want to mess with the hard drive, first disconnect the cable from the HDD's end, then from the motherboard.
If you want to remove the RAM board, pull it off by using 2 fingers, 1 for each side. You will find that the module is firmly attached and woun't come out easily.
I don't recomand you remove or try to mess with that silver foil over the display's back (one of the last pictures). There's a jungle of connectors and wires underneath it and they are cought between 2 layers of that stuff. They can be easily damaged.
When reassembling the shift first start by connecting the small ribbon from the microfone to the motheboard, then connect the display's cable. You will find it more easily to maneuvre if the display is at halfway distance from the main body. Then connect the 2 screws that secure the connector between the 2 portions of the motherboard. ONCE AGAIN, CAREFULL TO HAVE THESE 2 SCREWS FIRMLY ATTACHED. In my first try, the connection wasn't good so when i powered on the shift, it started to make some scarry stuff with it's leds and display. No harm been done but it was pretty scarry. You may then reattach the rest of the screws in backwards order.
If you will want only to upgrade the HDD just stop at "removing the back cover" part. There's nothing more you need to do, you don't need to remove the motherboard and there's pretty much no risks involved. Just be carefull with the ribbon linking the HDD to the motherboard.
I heard some advices about some serials on the chips and such data. Yep, I did photos of these things too. I'll attach them also, tomorrow after I organise my list of findings and notes that I've made with those. I'll post them by category. However I didn't find much, most chips are imposible to read because of the faded markings and other ones are covered by aluminium caps that are soldered over them. The shift looks like a large phone.
Please ask questions if you have. I'll try to help and be specific on those topics.
Bravo!! Good job!!! Can't wait to see the remaining! Now we need someone to try upgrading the HHD. This is getting more interesting!
Excellent, thanks for sharing your findings.
Really good job, man!
Really good job! Thank you for this "step-by-step" guide!
now time to enable the microphone, enable the phone, and look like a complete idiot when u try to hold this thing up to your ear
now u pretty much proved a few things. this thing is pretty much a fully functional wm device. you also shower we were right all along the gps is very very possible for this device. i need to get ltxda one of the gps tools and have him post a lock so you can all see some gps action
Ok people, I'm willing to order a larger HD and even more RAM. I'm going to contact some of my sources on Monday or Tuesday. Any help you guys can provide would be great.
EDIT: Great job on the how-to here!!!
Pawel062 said:
now time to enable the microphone, enable the phone, and look like a complete idiot when u try to hold this thing up to your ear
now u pretty much proved a few things. this thing is pretty much a fully functional wm device. you also shower we were right all along the gps is very very possible for this device. i need to get ltxda one of the gps tools and have him post a lock so you can all see some gps action
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Let's try this on Sunday afternoon bro if you're availabe. I also have a tool that i'm going to try to run, if the family allows, and provide results. Get with me sometime after 3pm. I'm headed to bed now...nite all.
Can you give some information about touchscreen model or manufactur???
I must first study how the protective silver film is attacked on the back of the display. from the fcc photos it seems there are a lot of ribbon connectors between it's twin layers. first time i've dissasembled shift i didn't have enought guts to rip that film in order to expose the internal components. Some connectors in that area caused me a lot of problems (shift's display didn't light up at all or the led's started to go crazy). I'll investigate the problem and there will be a second shift disassembly session in which time i wish to upgrade the hdd also.
So, where might we solder our 32GB SD card to the WM side?
Great job!
Keyboard
Hello,
I tried to pull out the KEyboard by it doesn't work.
What is the Secret to get it out ?
i've sent you an email.
facdemol said:
i've sent you an email.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks for the Email, I'll try it on Monday and let you know if it work.
Andi
Possible Mistake If You Choose A 2,5 Hhd For Shift Original Hdd.
facdemol said:
I've heard some of you guys asking about the dimensions inside and the possibility to replace this hard drive with another one, more thicker. THERE IS SPACE INSIDE TO DO THAT.
(Someone asked about a 2.5 drive replacement into the shift -- NO way dude)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks to everybody for the help to dissasenble.
Im sorry, It´s clear is not possible.
I'd attach a Picture of my shift with a 1.8 + 2,5" hdd.
---------------------------- -----------------------------
Please, don´t buy ANY HDD 2,5" Noone will fit in.
Is necesary a 1.8" HDD AND the conector of the HDD MUST BE a kind of ZIF connector. (They Called "LIF")
(Neither there are COMPATIBILITY with IDE/ATA/SATA connectors. You will need a ATA 7 conector!!!)
I found this kind HDDs in 80, 100 and 120 GB capacity, easy to buy ad least in Spain.
For Myself I'd ordered a Toshiba-MK1214GAH (120GB), where I Plan to Install a Personal Ed. XP + Vista in a second partition.
Armas.
I have read many threads and forums about the problem of the Hermes becoming white. The soft reset in this case does not help.
I found the explanation in my case and I am not able to fix it quickly, without opening the device to screw the connector.
The problem is only due to the temperature of the device. When the temp is to hot, the screen is white, in my case, it typically happens when it stays in my pocket et I moving too much throug the office ;-)
Solution, simply open the keyboard and gently blow in the thin area between the two parts of the device.. in my case, the screen comes back in 2-3 seconds.
Enjoy !
Eric
Hermes/Schaps 4.31/Orange CH
To be honest, I have this problem on my 838 (wizard) previously.
I have found someone (engineer who I need to pay) help me to check.
It is actually the connection cable between the keyboard and screen start breaking.
This makes the connection poor.
End up, my wizard cannot be repaired and I have borrow my freinds hermes to use in the mean time.
I suggest you pay special attention to it.
I suppecm that you blow it is actually helping the connection of that cable.
huh
are you guys serious in what you're talking about?
blow in between the two parts of the device when it's hot to get the connection of the cable back?
are you sure you are talking about a mobile phone and not about a compressor?
thanks for your feedback. I am convince that in my case, the gentle blow does not move the connecting cable.
Additionaly, the tipical symptom reported in various thread is that the soft reset does not help, while letting it apart for 15 minutes does help. It can confirm that the simple temperature idea is fine.
Again, it works for me, it can help others, and sorry for the others that won't find a solution with mine!
actually, i am neutal to this topic.
But just want to share my experience.
In my case, my cable is aging. Initially, it can help with slide the keyboard open and close.
End up the engineer told me that cannot be repaired deal to no parts. he examined it using a microsope watching the cable.
no need to take it too series.
It is a cable connection issue, it is caused by either dropping or opening and closing the device numerous times. It can be fixed the part cost around $20 kinda hard to find but can be found if you search enought. I can repair the device if your interested either pm me or you can contact me at
[email protected]
nate
when this happened to my hermes last August i found slightly unscrewing the two screws on the back of the screen fixed it & not had a problem since
didnt know what the white screen was 'till i got it right after the external volume crapped out, so tired of tinkering with hermes, going Kaiser
As a science experiment I have bought a number of hermes on ebay- it is a cable connection issue or worn cable in the 4 I have played with - all fixed by cleaning and reinstalling cable/connection or replacing the cable assembly. I cant say this is the only bug but 4 outy of 4 inducates a trend to me
John
Oh my gosh, topic starter, that is the same exact issue that I frequently have with my 8525. I eventually found out that if I leave it in direct sunlight, put it in my pocket for too long, or in anyway expose it to relative heat, then it would turn white.
That's a nice "fix" you have there hahah. As for me, I just let it cool down by placing it in a cool and shaded place, works like a charm after a few minutes.
Anyone with a WHITE screen MUST READ this!!!
To bring credit to what I say below, I haved had tinkering experience with electronics for the past 10 years, not to mention that I am currently a 3rd year electronics engineering student.
I currently have 4 hermes units.
When I first had the white screen prolem on my first hermes about a year ago (may be 8-10 months?) my research on the net revealed that the problem is apparently the connector on the button pad board (part number 50H000380-30M-A). After serious tinkering and tweaking I finally got the (extremely sensitive) connector connected up so that the white screen issue actually dissapeared. However, since the connection was so delicate and so sensitive, I had to fix it in place with a hot glue. Hot glue actually added some thickness to it; given that there isn't much tolerance between the top of the connector and the cover, I needed to scrape away some plastic without putting a hole in it so it can accommodate the extra thickness, this is also required for the sliding function to be smooth.
However, right now I have 4 hermes, and I am faced with the same issue. On two units I have the white screen problem. After some intuitive testing I have found that the problem is not with the flex cable, nor with the connector on the flex cable, nor the connector on the button pad board. The problem is with the actual button pad board itself, as it contains fair bit of circuitry on board.
This is how I came to the conclusion. Since the white screen can be fixed with sensitive alignment of the connecor on the board, I wondered if it will display anything with that D-pad (button pad board) disconnected. On trial, it didn't display anything on both a functional unit and a unit with a white screen issue. From this I made the assumtion that the LCD initialisation sequence is contained on the button pad board (part number 50H000380-30M-A).
Having made this assumption, I thought since the symptoms of having it disconnected on a functional unit is the same with a unit that has the white screen symptom, I wondered if it will fix the white screen problem if I changed over the button pad board. On trial, I found that the white screen problem was a thing of the past. So, I don't know what on the button pad board actually causes the white screen, but it is DEFINITELY the board it self and not the connector.
PS: I don't know the proper names of the components but by the button pad board I am talking about is the board that lies under the front buttons of the unit that has the call, end call, start, ok...etc buttons.
uengin, u totally had make ur homework regarding the white-screen-issue.
Anyway, for me, I face the exact problem too. And my way is much simpler. When ever I face the white-screen problem (this cause by the high temperature, coz I notice it only happen when I put my 838 on my pocket while walking during sunny day), I simply turn off the screen for a while (by lightly pressing the power button), like 3-5 second, then turn on the screen back. And, voila~ it back to normal.
i get a white screen when i press on the plastic casing on the lower right side of the screen, above the right bar button. no temperature involved here. sending the hermes to sleep and waking it up restores the normal screen.
pcpc said:
i get a white screen when i press on the plastic casing on the lower right side of the screen, above the right bar button. no temperature involved here. sending the hermes to sleep and waking it up restores the normal screen.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
There's actually a BGA chip in that vicinity on the button pad circuit board. It may or may not be that chip thats causing the issues, but I find it higly likely it is...
uengin said:
There's actually a BGA chip in that vicinity on the button pad circuit board. It may or may not be that chip thats causing the issues, but I find it higly likely it is...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
if it is the chip, then this would be a loose soldering point?
would you recommend to handle the hermes with great care? eg. not putting it in my trouser pocket because oft the pressure?
pcpc said:
if it is the chip, then this would be a loose soldering point?
would you recommend to handle the hermes with great care? eg. not putting it in my trouser pocket because oft the pressure?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I doubt its a "loose" solder joint. It could be a dry joint. But then again you never know. However, the symptoms with the heating and cooling mentioned in the thread it could be one of the several devices on the button pad board failing due to heat.
As a general rule of thumb, definitely electronic devices of this calibre should be dealt with a level of care indeed.
nohanz said:
uengin, u totally had make ur homework regarding the white-screen-issue.
Anyway, for me, I face the exact problem too. And my way is much simpler. When ever I face the white-screen problem (this cause by the high temperature, coz I notice it only happen when I put my 838 on my pocket while walking during sunny day), I simply turn off the screen for a while (by lightly pressing the power button), like 3-5 second, then turn on the screen back. And, voila~ it back to normal.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Same for me which seems software issue but how to solve it
I'm having white screen problem too. I highly doubt it has anything to do with a cable because:
1) I almost never use keyboard, aka don't slide open the phone
2) lately white screen often happens when I touch a screen.
3) several times white screen got fixed by holding the phone next to aircondition outlet.
4) white screen recently started at the same time I've noticed that the battery started dying, it doesn't last as long as before. Before this battery I had another one, similar, and also never had white screen while that battery was new.
To conclude all this, at least in my case is more likely it's a battery issue and/or overheat. Tomorrow I'll use the original battery (I've replaced it with 3k mAh 2 years ago) this should proof me right or wrong.
My white screen issues started after a waist-high drop onto concrete, accompanied by the D-Pad and the surrounding buttons not working. In order to get the white screen to go away and the buttons to work again, I have a simple 2-step process:
Put the Hermes to sleep
Press hard right above the D-Pad/below the screen
When I wake the device up, it works just fine!
Interesting Find......
I just noticed something about my white screens.
IF the poweron led does NOT turn on then I get white screen when turning on my hermes.
If the poweron led turns ON(lights up) when turning my phone on then it won't white screen on me.
Ok, so today i woke up, and my phone no longer got service. I dont know what caused it. I dropped my phone last night and do not remember if I made a call after or not... But it was working last night. Would flashing a new radio fix my issue do you think? any insight would be good.
As you've dropped it, I'd open it up firt and see if the antenna is still attached (no cracks in connectors) properly.
I wouldn't flash a new radio rom as the radio is the achilles heel of the Hermes. It could become permanently bricked. Thats ALWAYS the last resort.
So, I do not at the time have a small enough screwdriver to get into my phone, because I am at school, but when I get one, where is the antenna located and what should I look for, I looked through the pictures on the wiki but none of them seem to show where the antenna is, please enlighten
You need a size 6 torque key, NOT a screwdriver or you'll kill the top of the screws.
The antenna is the large black plastic part at the top of the Hermes. Its directly under the back plate and pretty much takes up the whole top of the phone. There is a torque screw holding it and the flywheel circuit board onto the rest of the Hermes and he antenna has a copper coloured clip on the side next to the power button. See if its still connected or if the clip is cracked/damaged in any way.
Cheers...
i opened her up, saw no connection issue or any sign of damage what could my problem be, and yes, i did pay the bill
EDIT: DISREGARD THIS. GO TO POST #3 and #4
Hello guys,
this is my first post so if I'm posting in the wrong section please bear with me.
I recently bought a T5388++ HTC diamond 2 clone. Everything was fine except that I couldn't get a GPS fix. (In the Start -> Settings -> System -> GPS Settings [Satellite State] I only had *red* satellites)
I used the "aluminum foil in the back side" fix, which worked well and I could get a fix.
Being an uneasy person I open the back cover of the cell phone to take a look (beware the headphone cables).
Now here is the good part.
On the left side (near the sd card and where the stylus ends) is probably the GPS antenna.
In the inside, on the board's side, there are two metallic "pins" which (when the cover is closed) touch the back of the antenna. What I did was to add some foil on the back side of the antenna so the contact with the pins would be more tight.
This worked like a charm and the signal is very good. I can even get a decent fix (3-4 *blue* satellites) from inside the house.
Sorry for the lack of pics, if anyone tries it, post a couple pictures and I can show you what I did exactly.
EDIT: DISREGARD THIS. GO TO POST #3 and #4
Pics!!!!
Here are some pics.
First unscrew the four screws, one at each corner of the phone.
Then slice the phone with the help of small flat screwdriver or some other tool. (there are some appropriate notches for that purpose)
**Beware of falling parts**
In the forth and fifth pic you can see where I install the alu foil.
Now you can close the phone and enjoy your newly found GPS!
[I also tried some solder, but the results where almost the same]
Congrats.
However, I can assure you that is not the GPS antenna. Based on the antenna size and shape (its a small inverted F antenna, see the black sticker that is attached to in on top of the stylus case) I am assuming it is either the Bluetooth or WiFi antenna.
The GPS antenna is a bit higher, it is the small pink 'cube' thingy on top of the phone, connected by the micro coax connector.
I had reported before the micro coax is loose in some devices, and I suspect you 'accidentally' fitted it better while opening and closing the phone.
But congrats on your successful operation anyway, being able to open and close the phone and still have a working one is already good, and often, just doing that and ensuring all connectors are clean and properly fit solves a all sorts of problems.
Yeap you are right!
I have read you saying this about loose connectors, so when i first opened the phone I refitted the micro coax.
In my defense I tried to see if this was the antenna. I disconnected it and opened the GPS. Seeing many satellites on the screen (red ones) I concluded that this was not the GPS antenna. (I thought maybe WiFi since I've seen this type of connector on my laptop's wifi)
But having read your post now, I tried a new experiment and found out that the "red" satellites appear, due to the A-GPS (with neither "my" GPS and THE GPS antenna).
Damn...
So could someone change the title to "OLD GPS reception fix"
I had the same problem with GPS. I have risked and have changed orientation GPS of the antenna - GPS perfectly works. BUT now the speaker in which I hear the interlocutor doesn't work for me. At other person after the assembly has broken touch the panel. Therefore it is better not to recommend to open phone.
onde consigo a rom do htc t5388+ idioma PTG ?
magicwolf said:
I had the same problem with GPS. I have risked and have changed orientation GPS of the antenna - GPS perfectly works. BUT now the speaker in which I hear the interlocutor doesn't work for me. At other person after the assembly has broken touch the panel. Therefore it is better not to recommend to open phone.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You changed the orientation of the antenna. In which way?
When I opened the phone to see if the connector is set right one cable to the speaker was dispatched (very bad soldering). I had to remove the old cable and solder another one because it was not only loose it was broken, too...grrrr...that's very bad.
But I was lucky and did't burned my phone
So, I also recommend to be VERY careful when opening the phone.
BTW: It is much simplier to open the T5388++ than my ASUS P535.
MicAlter said:
You changed the orientation of the antenna. In which way?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
In a picture it is visible as I oriented the antenna.
cybermaus said:
Congrats.
However, I can assure you that is not the GPS antenna. Based on the antenna size and shape (its a small inverted F antenna, see the black sticker that is attached to in on top of the stylus case) I am assuming it is either the Bluetooth or WiFi antenna.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Can you please identify Wifi antenna? Look in attachment:
"C" is GPS antenna.
What is "A" "B" "D" ?
"D" - I see little piece of aluminum foil, but nothing else. Under this foil is place for stylus only and above foil is contact + Vibration Motor.
Somewhere I reed a tip not to hold the hand on the bottom of this phone during the phone call in order not to shield located there GSM antenna, so it means B is probably GSM. Are you sure C is BT and not GPS?
You're right. "C" is 100% GPS antenna. My mistake. (I've changed it now in original post.)
Well, my guess is B (at the bottom) is GSM, based on the fact it is larger (lower frequency) and seems to have two (one for the 850/900 MHz and one for 1800/1900Mhz), which leaves A and D for Blue and WiFi.
PS: Or GSM has two because it has 2 radio's? I wonder if they would share antenna or not, since it is a dual-sim dual standby, I guess the could share)
serak_hd2 WiFi probl.
If you have opened your phone already you can easily discover which one is wifi and BT. Just put a peace of paper on one contact (blocking connection), reassemble (screws are not necessary) and try connect to BT devise (compare to previous performance(distance)) if it is gone (or big performance difference), you blocked BT if not, it was WiFi. After you know which is Wifi, just try to ensure good mechanical contact from antenna till the board (bending contactors little higher or putting allufoil (aluminum can oxidize quickly, so it is not the best solution)). Try not to touch the board, some of the components can be sensible to static discharges. If you have not opened it yet, try to consider ones more the possibility to change it by your seller for new one.
problem with touch screen
t5388 + + touch screen does not work, but the image looks perfectly fine.
How to fix this?
thanks
cybermaus said:
The GPS antenna is a bit higher, it is the small pink 'cube' thingy on top of the phone, connected by the micro coax connector.
I had reported before the micro coax is loose in some devices, and I suspect you 'accidentally' fitted it better while opening and closing the phone.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I also had this problem, the connector was loose, now I have very good signal. No aluminium foil needed. Your post saved me!
My recommendation to other people trying to solve this problem: be VERY careful when you open your phone.
I just bought a replacement power button/ flex cable for Nexus of ebay. Took me around 30 minutes to replace it but its fully working right now. Its around 30 £ .
Item name it "Flex Cable Repair Parts for HTC Google Nexus one G5 1"
Just thought i let you know .
Any pictures?
Is it a tricky fix? I replaced my digitizer just fine so hopefully this wouldn't be a major repair job in comparison. Would love to have my power button working again!
I don't understand why you fixed it yourself, I sent mine back to HTC.
stinkypete said:
I don't understand why you fixed it yourself, I sent mine back to HTC.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
How much did it cost for the repair out of interest? Did it take them long to get it back to you?
Just curious if to you it looked like a bad button connection or a bad cable? I know sometimes the buttons get crud in them so they dont make a proper connection...
Great info. Too bad we don't have step by step pics. How did you take the phone apart and how deep did you have to go?
Does anyone know why the power button breaks? I have my N1 a year now and (luckily) i never had a HW issue. anyways i was just wondering why it breaks .
Step by step pics would have been nice.
commodoor said:
Does anyone know why the power button breaks? I have my N1 a year now and (luckily) i never had a HW issue. anyways i was just wondering why it breaks .
Step by step pics would have been nice.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The power button itself has a small cylindrical piece of plastic which pushes against and presses a small connection that sorta clicks (Which gives you the tactile feedback you feel). I think the problem occurs when either 1) The piece of plastic either bends/breaks/gets damaged in some way that makes that contact much harder to produce 2) The connection is connected to the phone via a cable/flex, however due to the Nexus one design it is bent around in order to be below the power button, while this is fine for the majority some devices, including mine, have seen the flex become damaged for whatever reason and either function intermittently or not at all.
It's also interesting to note that there is nothing holding the flex or the connection in place except for the design itself i.e. the battery bay plastic holds it all in place. My power button was never that responsive (But got progressively worse) so this may explain why.
Its always flex cable breaks and there is no way you can replace just the flex cable.You can find plenty of disassembly instruction over the net and yes you need to disassembly it to the pieces( still less to do than to replace digitizer.)I had a seal broken so i couldn't send it to HTC.
Hollow.Droid said:
The power button itself has a small cylindrical piece of plastic which pushes against and presses a small connection that sorta clicks (Which gives you the tactile feedback you feel). I think the problem occurs when either 1) The piece of plastic either bends/breaks/gets damaged in some way that makes that contact much harder to produce 2) The connection is connected to the phone via a cable/flex, however due to the Nexus one design it is bent around in order to be below the power button, while this is fine for the majority some devices, including mine, have seen the flex become damaged for whatever reason and either function intermittently or not at all.
It's also interesting to note that there is nothing holding the flex or the connection in place except for the design itself i.e. the battery bay plastic holds it all in place. My power button was never that responsive (But got progressively worse) so this may explain why.
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Thnx for the explanation. I get it now. maybe it smart to always use trackball wake .
Ra1stlin said:
Its always flex cable breaks and there is no way you can replace just the flex cable.You can find plenty of disassembly instruction over the net and yes you need to disassembly it to the pieces( still less to do than to replace digitizer.)I had a seal broken so i couldn't send it to HTC.
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I did some googling and found a few images of that component, I remember taking it out and it was pretty simple so it should be just fine! Thanks for the info!
Is it the Power button part that you changed ?
Hi,
I have found a photo of the power button part, can you tell us if you changed the full part shown on the photo ?
androidguys.com/2010/09/08/manage-nexus-broken-power-button
And i think you paid it way too much expensive ?
Thanks.
I just replaced my flex cable as well as the loud speaker as well.
iFixit has a few pictures and there is a video on youtube, of the taking apart process. Unfortunately I can't post links
There are two little rubber parts that will likely fall out during the mainboard removal. One goes underneath the connector beside the sim card and one is a part of the microphon.
I wish I could have taken pictures of where those parts go, but alas, my only camera right now is my nexus, so....
BTW, I bought my parts at Mobile Brando. Quite well priced as compared to many other stores of the kind.
was it the whole board that you've replaced? or just the flex cable for the power button. can you further elaborate the steps that you've done?
So this is the item that you purchased? http://mobile.brando.com/google-nexus-one-mother-board-flex-cable-ribbon_p6193c1023d88.html
Can you confirm that the 3.5mm jack is on that board? Additionally, is that motherboard and flex cable for the AMOLED version or the SLCD version?
Do you need to remove the screen and risk getting dust inside there to swap this part?
Hi,
That's exactly the item, at that very same store. I also bought a loudspeaker as well as both back covers there. The audiojack is on board and I believe the flex cable has nothing to do with the screen type. The screen does not have to be removed.
I used those pics: http://www.ifixit.com/Teardown/Nexus-One-Teardown/1654/1
and this video: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cznogushN34&feature=player_embedded to figure out how to do it.
Basically, it's quite straight forward, given that you aren't a clumsy oaf ;-)
Remember the two rubber parts that might fall out when you pull off the mainboard assembly. (one at the bottom, for the microphon (http://guide-images.ifixit.net/igi/fpRmPyN6h12mtNvt.huge ,a bit to the left of the plastic tool) and one at the connector beside the sim card (http://guide-images.ifixit.net/igi/EOfeocuwhCRASB6M.huge , on the left part, somewhat down from the serial number sticker).
I have this probleme, but this part costs too much :S....
10. pin ON OFF way in board socket... u make jumper to on off buton
I have replace Power button for my N1. But you can reset your N1 by do'n need it. Except when you want flash rom!