I've been thinking to trying something, but thought I should get some input first...
I'm considering soldering a small ribbon cable from the contacts on the back of the Nexus 7's microUSB port and running it up to the space where the rear camera would have gone. I think there's enough room for me to insert a small microSD card reader and still fit the back of the case on properly. I've soldered a lot of small components, so I'm not concerned about the about the process. What I need to know is if this will interfere with charging. I know that the port can charge and transfer data simultaneously, I just don't know if it can do this is the data and 5V are coming from different sources. Any feedback would be appreciated. Thanks!!
I'm not a pro at this stuff by any means, but I do have an idea.
Maybe you should just grab a cheap y-splitter + otg first and see if you can charge while using a microsd reader?
Good idea. I have an OTG cable, so now I just have to track down a y-splitter.
Related
I opened up my blue angel, and I'd like to make a SD socket extender.
I've soldiered the 9 SD pins to an external SD socket, however, the device doesn't detect the card. there seems to be a way the pocketpc identifies when a card is inserted.
is there a way to override this ?
or any other idea's how to make an external SD connector.
Sounds to me like you may have burnt out something on the Wizard motherboard from the heat of the soldering iron as the Pocket PC detects an SD card by the power flowing through the card, i.e. when the conenction is complete it detects the SD card.
when I plug in a memory card by itself to the ppc, it detects it fine.
there seems to be some kind of switch on the inner side of the sd connector, but i cant be able to figure how it works and what its connected to.
there are 9 pins yes but on the right side of the card there is a pin in the connector that gives power to the whole socket when the card is inserted. that was you dont fry the card when you insert it. its basically like an on/off switch
hello
How do I bypass that switch ? (or shouldn't I ?)
I'm working on a carppc (which'll be perm. mounted in the car), and I'm making an extention cord for the SD socket..
honestly i wouldnt extend it over 6-12 inches. you will get alot of signal degridation if you do that. if you want to bypass it then wire up a switch. just remember to cut the switch off before removing and inserting
yeah, i opened up the socket itself, and there really is a switch.
i made it about 6" long, so it ought to be ok.
as for the switch, any idea why its necessary ?
- it doesnt exist on (most?) sockets i've seen.
- also, the SD guidelines specify that the power and ground pins should enter
first, so the card wouldnt fry up, so why the hell the switch ? it makes things a lot more complicated, also, getting the switch out of the socket, is also not so easy.
in the meanwhile, i've kinda funked the screen's flex cable.. can this be replaced ? or do i have to get a complete new screen.. ?
I"m guessing all the wires would need to be exactly the same length.
Just a couple hours after I got my used, out of warranty N1, it quit recognizing the Micro SD card. I put that card in two different USB readers, and it's so fried, the readers aren't even recognized by USB with the card in it. Unfortunately, the bad card also shorted out something on the phone, because now it won't read any SD card at all, and I tried 3 others!
Anyway, I'm trying to figure out if I need a new MicroSD flex board. One suspicious thing, is I've find pin 8 of the MicroSD socket has continuity to ground. That's supposed to be the DAT1 pin, and I bet it's supposed to show 2.7V like DAT0 and DAT2 pins. I even took apart my USB SD card readers to compare voltages, and they show 3.3V on DAT0, DAT1, and DAT2. If anyone has an N1 that is apart, or will be taking one apart soon, or just have a spare MicroSD flex laying around, and also have a multimeter, would you please measure to see if there is continuity between pin 8 and ground (i.e. metal shell of the MicroSD socket)? The socket has 8 pins and with the phone oriented with its top pointed away from you, the pins are 1 thru 8 left to right.
Any help will be GREATLY appreciated!
The USB port on my HD2 (T9193) is basically shot. The clips that normally hold cables into it are all but gone, so any USB cable you plug into the phone falls out if you so much as look at it wrong, which is a real pain when it's charging, you pick it up to check something, and the cord just falls out, or you're trying to put files on it with a USB cable, bump it, and the USB cable falls out.
Anyone have any experience replacing this? What tools will I need? Where can I order the part?
Spike15 said:
The USB port on my HD2 (T9193) is basically shot. The clips that normally hold cables into it are all but gone, so any USB cable you plug into the phone falls out if you so much as look at it wrong, which is a real pain when it's charging, you pick it up to check something, and the cord just falls out, or you're trying to put files on it with a USB cable, bump it, and the USB cable falls out.
Anyone have any experience replacing this? What tools will I need? Where can I order the part?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
If you're an experienced soldering specialist than everything will be OK, otherwise I wouldn't recommend you even try!
Ditto, If you think you have the skills to micro solder it yourself, the connector is $8 on ebay, and the wiring diagrams are here:
www.ebay.com/itm/260913779440 microUSB $8
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=930412 solder point pics
If the connections still work, a better option would be to leave it as is for the occasional file transfer or flashing, and do the charging via induction. Amazon has the HD2 PowerMat Induction Charging Door for $6, and the base plus a somewhat universal microUSB door is going for $5 today at CowBoom (BestBuy's DailyDeal online clearance site).
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=1561894 (LINK)
links provided in above thread if you want to mod the $5 droidX combo pack into the HD2's car docking port next to the battery.
I had a go on a cheap one I got from ebay, the usb port had fallen off.
The connections/soldering points are very small, I mean tiny, and really wouldn't recommend it unless you are very good at micro-soldering and have some good tools.
Peace
My microUSB adapter coupled with the USB light is too heavy. I have to hold the nook upside down so that gravity will push down on the microUSB port. Furthermore, as mentioned in other threads, Android 2.1 doesn't allow the screen to rotate 180 degrees.
Do microUSB ports have a lock like Apple's dock connector? People have attached wriststraps to the iPhone's dock connector.
Is there another type of microUSB adapter I can get?
Oh, supporting your light off the connector is not a good idea.
Somebody should do a teardown on the glowworm to see if the LED is fed off a spare regulator in the TPS65921B (TWL4030).
Then you could use the stock glowworm software to control your light.
You wouldn't be using the USB connector.
You could either hardwire it or put a jack at the top.
I should check out making all 4 orientations work.
Sorry I'm not familiar with electronics terms.
I used the microUSB port after seeing this guy's photo.
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=1568995
Does hardwire mean solder the light like
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=1423367&page=3
And putting a jack at the top means creating a USB port by attaching one to the regulator?
All these require drilling the holes in the case...
I don't like putting stress on the poor little micro USB connector.
I wouldn't ever use one of those block adapters that you use.
See the adapter in the attachment photo here: http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?p=26286972#post26286972
How about clamping the light on the top edge of the Nook and running the cord in the back?
It looks like the Nook Glow uses additional hardware for the power supply of the glow.
Yep I've seen those adapters before for attaching peripherals to phones and tablets. Before this I didn't know OTG was a common type of microUSB to USB adapter.
I bought the block adapter without thinking of the weight factor because it fit. And that cost more than the OTG cables!
Don't do it!
Listen to Renate. Unlike "normal" USB (-A, -B, mini-) connectors, those micro-USB connectors are usually just soldered to the top of the circuit board, instead of with a hole-through. Thus it is extremely easy to rip the connector of your PCB, and then you have a serious problem...
Don't worry, I've bought a OTG cable from China off eBay for 3 USD.
I bought a Nexus One with the infamous broken power button issue, and I am curious what would the effect be if I short the VCC and GND line in the charging port? Has anyone tried that? I am thinking that it will either fry the board or trick the phone to think that it is charging.
The reason I want to do this is because I travel a lot and I might not have access to USB charging if I want to swap the SIM card. I am familiar with the other tricks regarding remapping the trackball_center and I am going to install a version of CWM that doesn't support charging (that way the phone boots when I plug a charging cable).
So long story short... what do you think about attempting to short the micro USB charging/data port?
dcalpha said:
what do you think about attempting to short the micro USB charging/data port?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Not much.
Unless the unit is in USB host mode there will be no voltage on the Vcc line.
Even in USB host mode it should be current limited and do no damage.
Still, I wouldn't do it.
I don't know why you think that shorting it will do something useful.
Renate NST said:
Not much.
Unless the unit is in USB host mode there will be no voltage on the Vcc line.
Even in USB host mode it should be current limited and do no damage.
Still, I wouldn't do it.
I don't know why you think that shorting it will do something useful.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I actually do not know, thus I asked... just trying to think outside the box about a way to trick the phone to think it is charging short of carrying a portable battery charger with me (which can be problematic on carry-on luggage).
Another idea I am thinking about is building a small flex cable using a conductive ink pen that permanently connect to the phone's battery on one side and a cut down male micro-usb on the other side (to slim it down). Such cable would be small enough to fold under the battery cover and allow it to close.
My question is: Will the ~3.7v be enough to get the phone to start charging? and do you foresee any issues with feeding power from the battery right back into the phone's charge port?
dcalpha said:
Another idea I am thinking about is building a small flex cable using a conductive ink pen that permanently connect to the phone's battery on one side and a cut down male micro-usb on the other side (to slim it down). Such cable would be small enough to fold under the battery cover and allow it to close.
My question is: Will the ~3.7v be enough to get the phone to start charging? and do you foresee any issues with feeding power from the battery right back into the phone's charge port?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I think 3.7 won't be enough. Coz usb giving ~5V. So phone won't charge at smaller voltage.