Database Users

Google Nexus One Screen Repair Guide

Does your Google Nexus One outer screen was cracked or damaged? Also having problem with the display? This written repair guide shows how to disassemble your Google Nexus One cell phone quickly and safely.
This guide will help you to install the following Google Nexus One parts:
Google Nexus One LCD Screen Replacement
Google Nexus One Touch Screen Digitizer Replacement
Tools Required:
Safe Open Pry Tool
Small Phillips Screwdriver
T5 Torx Screwdriver
Adhesive Strips (For Touch Screen Repair)
Google Nexus One Take apart guide:
In order to disassemble a Google Nexus One phone first of all you need to remove the battery cover (rear back cover) of the phone.
After the removal of the battery cover you should be able to see three screws - a Phillips screw at the left-middle side and two T5 screws at the top-left corner and top-right corner. Remove all three screws using the respective screwdrivers. Remember to note the positions of screws for the reassembly.
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Figure 1​
After removing the three screws, use a pry tool to pry off the frame (battery tray).
Now pry the bottom cover off using the pry tool again, this would be slightly difficult as it is held tighter.
There will be two more T5 screws to be removed after the bottom cover comes off. These will be located at bottom left and bottom right corners of the phone. Remove both of these screws using the Torx 5 Screwdriver
Use the pry tool again to pry the bottom frame off.
You will now have to remove two more Phillips screws using the small Phillips screw driver. These screws will be positioned at bottom-left and top-left corners of the phone.
Undo the three flex connections which can be found at the lower-right half of the phone. You can use the pry tool to achieve this.
Figure 2​
Undo the coaxial cable connection which will be located at the upper-left side of the phone.
After you have undone the flex connections and the coaxial cable, you can pry the top board off to unclip it.
Figure 3​
Remove the volume button.
Unhook the main board from the peg and then push it up and out of the phone. Note, the rubber microphone channel might fall out. Put it aside and don't lose it.
Upon removal of the main board you will find three more screws almost inline at the bottom end of the phone which are required to be removed to free the trackball assembly beneath the plate.
After removing the three screws lift this plate to free the trackball assembly (this is similar to that of Blackberry trackball).
Loosen the tape holding the LCD in place.
Figure 4​
Free the flex connector from the LCD. It’s held on with tape.
Now the LCD can come out. Carefully unclip it using the pry tool (you can use the pry tool for this).
Your Nexus one is now fully disassembled. Reverse the instructions above to reassemble your phone.

Wow, great guide, that's what I need!
My screen got cracked, but the phone and touch still work. So this means i need to replace only the lcd and NOT the digitizer?

Step by Step Video Guide
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hTRXSMQ-GJY

ultra99 said:
Wow, great guide, that's what I need!
My screen got cracked, but the phone and touch still work. So this means i need to replace only the lcd and NOT the digitizer?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
If the outside glass is cracked then you need the touch screen digitizer replacement.
If your image is bad then you need the LCD screen replacement.
If both your outside glass is cracked and you have a bad image then sadly you need both the touch screen digitizer and LCD screen replacements.
Hope this clears things up. Let us know if you have further questions.

repairsuniverse said:
If the outside glass is cracked then you need the touch screen digitizer replacement.
If your image is bad then you need the LCD screen replacement.
If both your outside glass is cracked and you have a bad image then sadly you need both the touch screen digitizer and LCD screen replacements.
Hope this clears things up. Let us know if you have further questions.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
THe image and touch are fine, so maybe it's the outside screen?
I already bought this: http://www.ebay.com/itm/270940310857?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649
Is that the wrong item?

ultra99 said:
THe image and touch are fine, so maybe it's the outside screen?
I already bought this:
Is that the wrong item?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That is the correct part to replace the cracked glass. However it looks as though its a cheap imitation part which are common on eBay. But providing it works it will fix your cracked glass issue.

Good luck, i recorded all 45 steps on the vidz i posted to youtube if you want someone to keep you company, granted the steps i posted are sort of tedious and over cautious... and people complain i replaced the touchscreen really slowwwly, but eh, at least its done !
---------- Post added at 11:21 AM ---------- Previous post was at 11:12 AM ----------
Will repair universe have a digitizer repair guide for the Samsung Galaxy Nexus?

Yes. We actually already have a guide for the Samsung Galaxy Nexus S.

A great companion to this written guide is our Nexus One video repair guide. Using it while referring to the guide above is a great way to insure a quick repair is made. We also have the guide above in a downloadable format so you can easily print and refer to while preforming a screen repair, etc.

Need urgent help
Hi!! first of all amazing guide. THank YOU!! This is my first post here and i dont know much about phones.
The thing is last week my nexus one fell from my pocket and its screen went blank. NO Display. Although if there is an incoming call i can slide on the screen , unlock it and talk but cant see anything
So, here is my question. To repair my phone do i need to buy a touch screen digitizer or LCD??
Need help asap...handicapped without my phone..

coolestchap143 said:
Hi!! first of all amazing guide. THank YOU!! This is my first post here and i dont know much about phones.
The thing is last week my nexus one fell from my pocket and its screen went blank. NO Display. Although if there is an incoming call i can slide on the screen , unlock it and talk but cant see anything
So, here is my question. To repair my phone do i need to buy a touch screen digitizer or LCD??
Need help asap...handicapped without my phone..
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hi,
If you are getting no image on the screen then you will need the LCD screen replacement to fix your device. You can find this part here - http://www.repairsuniverse.com/google-nexus-one-replacement-screens-parts.html

I can't see no where to ask questions. Not a noob just in need of desperate help. My sisters n1 just got stuck in hboot with the white screen. I can get into recovery but that's about it. Can anyone help Me!! I've been pulling my hair out over 2 damn hours!!!!!!!!
Sent from my GT-I9100 using xda premium

androidkid311 said:
I can't see no where to ask questions. Not a noob just in need of desperate help. My sisters n1 just got stuck in hboot with the white screen. I can get into recovery but that's about it. Can anyone help Me!! I've been pulling my hair out over 2 damn hours!!!!!!!!
Sent from my GT-I9100 using xda premium
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
What caused this. Was this following opening the device or a drop?

repairsuniverse said:
What caused this. Was this following opening the device or a drop?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
She doesn't even know. She knows nothing about android. Just how to make calls and send texts lol. I will take a picture when she gets back and upload it in the Q&A section I didn't see earlier (slaps forehead). Thanks for your reply
Sent from my GT-I9100 using xda premium

androidkid311 said:
She doesn't even know. She knows nothing about android. Just how to make calls and send texts lol. I will take a picture when she gets back and upload it in the Q&A section I didn't see earlier (slaps forehead). Thanks for your reply
Sent from my GT-I9100 using xda premium
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
No problem.

Screen Repair Question
Wonderful technicians of Repairs Universe,
I purchased a Nexus One LCD Screen from Repairs Universe, and followed your step by step replacement instructions. The new screen has been installed, and even so, when I boot the phone, the screen never turns on. I can feel the phone vibrate, and it seems to respond to touch commands. However, I am still unable to see the screen with the replacement.
I was just wondering if you had any further suggestions for me. If you could, please email me with your reply. [email protected]
I purchased the screen last week, and installed it on Friday 05/10/13
Any help you could provide would be greatly appreciated!
Thank you!

coolestchap143 said:
Hi!! first of all amazing guide. THank YOU!! This is my first post here and i dont know much about phones.
The thing is last week my nexus one fell from my pocket and its screen went blank. NO Display. Although if there is an incoming call i can slide on the screen , unlock it and talk but cant see anything
So, here is my question. To repair my phone do i need to buy a touch screen digitizer or LCD??
Need help asap...handicapped without my phone..
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It sounds like it will most likely need a new LCD screen. Good luck!

Today i win an auction from ebay.de HTC Google Nexus One for only 11.50 Euro !
I already have an HTC Google Nexus One phone, and now i have to repair this one

fancyfree said:
Today i win an auction from ebay.de HTC Google Nexus One for only 11.50 Euro !
I already have an HTC Google Nexus One phone, and now i have to repair this one
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Well if you need a quality touch screen digitizer and LCD screen, we have them available at RepairsUniverse (dot) com.

Thanks but Ebay has better prices !

Samsung Epic 4G Screen Repair Take Apart Guide

This screen repair guide will allow you to safely and quickly repair damaged touch screen digitizer, LCD (AMOLED), and other internal parts of your Samsung Epic 4G. Disassemble your Epic 4G and get your Samsung smartphone working like new again!
This guide will help you to install the following Samsung Epic 4G part(s):
Samsung Epic 4G LCD & Touch Screen Glass Digitizer Assembly
Tools Required:
Safe Open Pry Tool
Small Phillips Screwdriver
T5 Torx Screwdriver
Samsung Epic 4G Take Apart Guide:
Remove the back battery cover by pressing in the button at the bottom of the phone, which will then loosen the cover. Then, you can remove the battery.
Now remove the back housing by removing six (6) screws that are holding it in place. There is one located at each corner and one on the center of each side.
Using the safe open pry tool, carefully insert the open pry tool in the crack between the back housing and the front housing of the phone. Start at the bottom, and gently loosen, working your way all the way around the phone. Then remove the back housing by pulling it gently away from the front part of the phone.
Next, use the open pry tool to unlock the keyboard and antenna clips. These are located at the left side of the motherboard, and appear as flat pieces of metal. Using the open pry tool, carefully insert it beneath them and press upward, to bend them into a straight up position instead of flat with the board as they currently are.
Figure 1
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Then you will disconnect the antenna wire, which appears as a small white wire on the right side of the battery location (shown in figure 1). Using nippers, gently pull up on the top and bottom parts of this wire to disconnect it from the phone. Do not fully remove it, simply disconnect it and leave it as it is.
Remove the loud speaker from the bottom of the phone by removing one small screw on the bottom left that holds the loud speaker in place.
At this point, everything should be disconnected so that you can gently remove the entire motherboard from the phone’s housing.
Remove the keyboard frame by removing four screws from the center of the phone. Two of these are located in the black plastic beneath where the motherboard was located. Then, removing the sticker beneath the battery housing (as shown in figure 2) with the safe open pry tool to reveal two more screws that need to be removed. Then, gently pull up on the keyboard frame and it should come off without difficulty.
Figure 2
Now you will remove the C side housing by removing four screws located in a row, beneath the flex cable that is still hanging in place. Then you can remove the C side housing, but be careful not to damage the flex cable as it maneuvers through the hole.
Remove the slide rail by removing four screws, one at each corner. Two of these screws have rubber round covers that will need to be removed with nippers and placed aside. Use the open safe pry tool to pry apart at the top and bottom of the phone. Then move to the sides, where there are six (6) total clips holding the slide rail in place-3 on each side. Using the open pry tool, careful pry apart the sides, being careful not to damage the flex cable. Try to have all sides pried apart before pulling off the slide rail.
Now remove the slide rail flex cable by using nippers to remove the small blue pieces of tape, as shown in figure 3.
Figure 3
The odd-shaped black cable beneath the tape is the slide rail flex cable. By removing the front camera flex cable gently (a beige small cable located behind the camera lens) with nippers, you will be able to pry up the last end of the slide rail flex cable, and gently remove it.
Now you're Samsung Epic 4G will be completely taken apart allowing you to install any replacement parts you have purchased. Keep all parts together in the order you took them apart, and simply reverse the order to put the phone back together.

This should be stickied lol, very good guide, I just hope I never have to use it .
Sent from my SPH-D700 using xda premium

+1 Sticky request
Sent from my MIUI V4 Epic 4G via Tapatalk 2 beta 4

Thanks guys!
Glad you found it useful!

Nice guide! Ive done multiple screen replacements on the Epic and other phones and will say that this is a good start. As i recall... dont you have a youtube video explaining this??
EDIT: hmmm i couldnt find it so i guess not lol sorry!

travmofosho said:
Nice guide! Ive done multiple screen replacements on the Epic and other phones and will say that this is a good start. As i recall... dont you have a youtube video explaining this??
EDIT: hmmm i couldnt find it so i guess not lol sorry!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Glad you liked it!
We didn't do a video for the Epic however we did do a video for a couple of other Samsung phones which were very similar models and process for the screen replacement.

A few months ago the local Sprint store replaced the screen on my phone. Now the screen is loose on one side and doesn't quite sit square. Not sure if something loosened up or is bent or what, but this guide will be useful as I take the phone apart and try to tighten up the slider.
Thanks.

Nice. minor point...
repairsuniverse said:
Tools Required:
Safe Open Pry Tool
Small Phillips Screwdriver
T5 Trox Screwdriver
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It is spelled Torx.

LargePrime said:
Nice. minor point...It is spelled Torx.
[/LIST]
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Typo fixed.

I've taken apart several Epics, not using this guide although I wish I would have lol, so I know that there are some very detailed steps involved. Thank you very much for creating this thread and taking the time to write up a how-to! I am a strong advocate of doing-it-yourself so this kind of thing makes me glad that there are others who refuse to pay exorbitant amounts of money for repairs that could be done on your own, for much cheaper.
Sent from my SPH-D700 using xda premium

2 errors in this guide, just trying to help out from a Sprint tech standpoint.
A T5 screwdriver is not needed. All the screws in the SPHD700 are Phillips.
Removing the speaker is unnecessary. Sure if you need to replace the speaker, but removing the plate that houses the keyboard components does not require the speaker to be removed. It's best practice not to unless necessary, simply because the speaker has a cable component underneath that snaps into a corresponding cable on the keyboard; failure to ensure it sits properly will of course prevent your speaker and vibrator from working.
Heretofore, removing the bottom end of the white antenna wire from the speaker is also unnecessary.
Sent from my SPH-D710 using xda premium

Just wondering - where is everyone ordering replacement parts from?
Perhaps when this info is answered it could be added to the OP so that all the info is in one nice easy to find area

altimuh said:
Just wondering - where is everyone ordering replacement parts from?
Perhaps when this info is answered it could be added to the OP so that all the info is in one nice easy to find area
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Samsung Epic replacement parts can be found here - Samsung Epic Replacement Parts
Hope this helps.

Great guide
Thanks for such a great write up.

blamethenetwork said:
Thanks for such a great write up.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
No problem.
Glad you found it useful.

When my phone is in landscape mode the swype doesnt work when im swyping say the word android where i have to slide left and right. I dont know what the internals of the epic4g is made up of but im guessing theres a digitizer or sensor part under the outer screen. Could it be the problem or is there some app for calibrating the touch screen where im having trouble getting the word to complete through long left and right swype movements? I used the dev tools to test the areas i touch and it appears fine but not very accurate but doesnt seem like im having bad areas on the touchscreen.
Sent from my SPH-D700 using XDA

Does anyone have any experience replacing just the glass without replacing the LCD and digitizer? I cracked my glass and eBay has the part for very cheap, but sprint wants $100 deductaple to replace the phone. I'm wondering if the LCD and glass are bonded together.

zman0900 said:
Does anyone have any experience replacing just the glass without replacing the LCD and digitizer? I cracked my glass and eBay has the part for very cheap, but sprint wants $100 deductaple to replace the phone. I'm wondering if the LCD and glass are bonded together.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
From what I've heard is the digitizer is so close to the screen or glass its really impossible to do it with out error... you'd have to get the whole deal and replace it.
Also might want to drop TEP as it requires a deductible and get a third party protection plan...
Sent from my SPH-D700 using xda premium

ÜBER™ said:
From what I've heard is the digitizer is so close to the screen or glass its really impossible to do it with out error... you'd have to get the whole deal and replace it.
Also might want to drop TEP as it requires a deductible and get a third party protection plan...
Sent from my SPH-D700 using xda premium
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Went ahead and payed the $100. The cable that connects the two haves of the slider was sticking out of the case, so I took the phone apart to try plugging it back in hoping I could at least make the cracked screen light up. Turns out the cable was broken too, so I figured it would be cheaper to just get the replacement. Thanks for that 3rd party plan idea. I'll have to look into that for my next phone.

cm9eq
zman0900 said:
Went ahead and payed the $100. The cable that connects the two haves of the slider was sticking out of the case, so I took the phone apart to try plugging it back in hoping I could at least make the cracked screen light up. Turns out the cable was broken too, so I figured it would be cheaper to just get the replacement. Thanks for that 3rd party plan idea. I'll have to look into that for my next phone.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yeah I'm buying my gnex from wirefly and they offer a premium protection plan for 7.50 a month and it covers everything... theft, damage, etc. With NO deductible. not bad...
Sent from my SPH-D700 using xda premium

Samsung P1000 Galaxy Tab Screen Take Apart Repair Guide

Does your outer touchscreen for Galaxy Tab has been damaged or cracked? This take apart repair guide shows you how to disassemble the Samsung P1000 Galaxy Tab cell phone quickly and safely. This guide can assist with the installation of replacement parts.
This guide will help you to install the following Samsung P1000 Galaxy Tab part:
Samsung P1000 Galaxy Tab Touch Screen Digitizer Replacement
Tools Required:
Safe Open Pry Tool
Tri Wings Screwdriver
Small Philips Screwdriver
Adhesive Stips (For Touch Screen Digitizer Replacements)
Samsung P1000 Galaxy Tab Take apart guide:
There are two screws at the bottom of the unit, and under two small plastic discs, use your small blade to remove this. With the discs remove you can use your tri wings screw drivers to remove the two screws as shown in Figure 1.
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Figure 1​
Using your case opener tool begin to pry the back case of the unit be careful the buttons on the sides start from the bottom and work your way around.
With the back case remove, you can now remove the battery, the battery is held to the motherboard with the single screw and the connector, use your Philip screw driver to remove the screw and your case opener tool to pry the connector free, and gently pull the battery from the unit.
There are seven screws that you'll need to remove from the motherboard as shown in Figure 2. You can now remove the six ribbon connectors on the motherboard. These connectors for the back facing camera. After removing the connector gently pull up and the camera will come up as well.
Figure 2​
These connectors for the back facing camera. After removing the connector gently pull up and the camera will come out as well. With the screws and connectors remove, you can now lift the motherboard from the unit.
Carefully remove the ribbon cable for the LCD from the connector on the back of the screen assembly. Use your case opener tool to pull out the plastic tab.
You can now apply heat to the outside edges (front of device). We suggest using a heat gun or hair dryer. 30 seconds to a minute is all you will need to loosen the adhesive. Immediately use a safe open pry tool on the outside edges of the screen and the housing. Re-heat if necessary.
Remove the housing from the screen assembly. You can now use a safe open pry tool to release the touch screen from the LCD screen. Apply heat if needed.
Your Samsung Galaxy Tab P1000 is now disassembled and the appropriate parts can be replaced.
To reassemble, follow this guide in reverse.
Simply reverse the order to put the phone back together.

Thanks, useful. Been looking for something like this. Using guitar pick...
Sent from my GT-P6800 using Tapatalk

fluffmonster said:
Thanks, useful. Been looking for something like this. Using guitar pick...
Sent from my GT-P6800 using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks. Glad it helped!!

What kind of adhesive is used to re-attach the digitizer
I just stuck a cheap 1 $ Screen guard on my tab... as it was bigger in size than my tab... i had to use a cutter to cut it and so i inserted the cutter in between the panel and the glass digitizer in all the four sides for cutting the extra part of screen guard.... and today after a week i saw the digitizer coming off the tab.... pls help me wat to do... the four corners of he digzer and the inside panel are still a bit sticky....
What kind of adhesive is used to re-attach the digitizer. Or maybe the soft gasket around the display melts and becomes the adhesive under heat?

Hi
Repaired two of mine and on went perfectly but the other has mess with green but if I push down on the tab screen then it is perfect.
Been debating weather to take apart again and resit everything. Also noticed on LCD itself there is a like loose liquid pattern ( if you know what I mean) nor to sure if they are connected.
Regards
Here is the pic
if you can see the green pattern
now here is when I push the screen in slightly
Just wondering before I go and take apart again is there any point or is there anything you can advise?
Sent from my LT26i using XDA

saheb_mnm said:
I just stuck a cheap 1 $ Screen guard on my tab... as it was bigger in size than my tab... i had to use a cutter to cut it and so i inserted the cutter in between the panel and the glass digitizer in all the four sides for cutting the extra part of screen guard.... and today after a week i saw the digitizer coming off the tab.... pls help me wat to do... the four corners of he digzer and the inside panel are still a bit sticky....
What kind of adhesive is used to re-attach the digitizer. Or maybe the soft gasket around the display melts and becomes the adhesive under heat?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
We recommend the adhesive strips here to create a secure bond. These are the correct thickness strips for the touch screen. Digitizer adhesive strips

fluffmonster said:
Thanks, useful. Been looking for something like this. Using guitar pick...
Sent from my GT-P6800 using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That's pretty clever, really. Not sure why I haven't thought of using a guitar pick rather than stocking up on "Special Service Tools."

do u deliver in india????
repairsuniverse said:
We recommend the adhesive strips here to create a secure bond. These are the correct thickness strips for the touch screen. Digitizer adhesive strips
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
do u deliver in india????
---------- Post added at 12:37 PM ---------- Previous post was at 12:31 PM ----------
alexgogan said:
Hi
Repaired two of mine and on went perfectly but the other has mess with green but if I push down on the tab screen then it is perfect.
Been debating weather to take apart again and resit everything. Also noticed on LCD itself there is a like loose liquid pattern ( if you know what I mean) nor to sure if they are connected.
Regards
Here is the pic
if you can see the green pattern
now here is when I push the screen in slightly
Just wondering before I go and take apart again is there any point or is there anything you can advise?
Sent from my LT26i using XDA
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I Just want to know wat glue u used to stick the screen back....
how did u stick the Touch Digitizer...???

I got 3M 2mm double sided tape for this, Repair Universe screen I think comes with the tape on it, and if it doesn't its about $4

alexgogan said:
I got 3M 2mm double sided tape for this, Repair Universe screen I think comes with the tape on it, and if it doesn't its about $4
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
thank You ... i am just wondering where can I get it.....

Deliver to India?
saheb_mnm said:
do u deliver in india????
Sorry we do not ship to India.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse

Hey what keyboard dock are you using?

It's one I sourced from China could not get what I wanted so am bringing in a few of them to sell on my site when it's launched later this month, have seen a few on eBay though but were not as good.
Regards
Sent from my LT26i using XDA

Sorry it took so long but we do ship to India now. Chat with us on our site for immediate assistance.

saz542 said:
thank You ... i am just wondering where can I get it.....
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
We carry the adhesive strips on our site. A link to the site can be found in our signature below.

Nexus 7 (2013) Take Apart Repair Guide

Is the screen on your Google Nexus 7 (2nd Generation) cracked or broken? You can repair the screen or other internal parts and components with this in depth repair guide. The guide will take you through each crucial step that will be essential in effectively performing a successful and safe opening of your device and repair nearly any desired part.
This guide will aid your installation of the following Google Nexus 7 (2nd Generation) parts:
Google Nexus 7 (2nd Generation) Touch Screen Digitizer Replacement
Google Nexus 7 (2nd Generation) LCD Screen Replacement
Google Nexus 7 (2nd Generation) LCD + Touch Screen Digitizer Replacement
Essential Tools:
Safe Pry Opening Tool
Small Phillips Screwdriver (#00)
Heat Gun/Hair Dryer
Google Nexus 7 (2nd Generation) Tear Down Guide:​
In order to get started with the repair you will first need to completely power down your device.
After the device is powered down you can start separating the unit's back cover from the screen assembly and also the motherboard.
Due to the fact the two are sealed together very firmly on this model, it may be very advantageous to begin with a small knife to release the first clips.
Normally if you start on the side of the device you will find it to be the easiest route. Next step use your pry tool to wedge between the seams around the sides and corners of the device until the back cover detaches from the tablet. Also be sure not to pry near the USB port located on the base.
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After you have removed the back cover from the tablet, simply use your pry tool to release the battery connector which is found on the top right side of your device. This is done to be certain that the device is totally powered down.
Next you will use a Small Phillips screwdriver to unscrew the four (4) Small Phillips screws which are depicted in red in the figure below.
Also depicted below in the figure are the remaining flex cable connections which are colored green. Use your pry tool to release the flex cable connections. It is important to use caution and remove the connections while avoiding tearing any of the cables.
Once the flex cables are released, you will be able to carefully take out the battery and the housing it is located in.
Now that the cables have been released you will be able to detach the five (5) connections colored in green below using your pry tool, as well as extract all the screws (seventeen of them) from both the top and bottom motherboard components using your Small Phillips screwdriver.
Something to be aware of is the fact that the Small Phillips screws are unequal in size so it will be very important to keep them separated to ensure that the screws are later placed in the correct spots.
After you have removed the screws, you will then use your pry tool to take out the bottom motherboard component (Figure 3.1 ), along with the loud speaker underneath the motherboard (Figure 3.2).
You will find another connector under the loud speaker and using the pry tool can release it. Holding this part down is adhesive tape which needs to be cautiously removed (Figure 3.3) and this will make it possible to pull out the long orange flex cable.
Then using your pry tool carefully take out the top motherboard component. It is important to be certain all connections have been released from this piece to ensure that none of the flex cables release while you remove the motherboard.
Following the removal of the top motherboard component, you will then be able to remove the top speaker underneath it, which is displayed in Figure 3.5.
The last part you will need to extract from the housing is the button flex cable found on the left side. Using your pry tool, lightly press against this cable in order to release the cable that is bound to the housing with adhesive (Figure 3.6). After this piece is removed it will be possible to begin taking the glass touch screen off of the the housing.
Prior to taking off the screen, you will need to use a heat gun (on low) or a hair dryer to heat up the sides and corners of the device for approximately 40 seconds to 1 minute, this will make sure the tablet is not excessively heated. Once the device is heated up the adhesive that holds the screen together will noticeably loosen.
Next, after the sides and corners have been heated up, use your pry tool to shim in between the housing and the screen assembly, and be sure to run the tool around the sides of the entire device.
Finally, substitute in the new parts while discarding damaged parts and simply reverse these steps in order to reassemble your device back together.
RepairsUniverse's Repair Guides are for informational and learning purposes only. Perform this repair at your own risk.

Cool guide! This will be useful not only for general repairs, but also for those of us who want to do hard-mods.
Now I just have to buy one. The end of the month can't come fast enough...

Taking the back cover off looks to be a pain and almost impossible without doing damage. They are very well built.
Sent from my Nexus 7 using xda premium

This guide is excellent.

Well, it happened. Screen broke just by setting it down face-up on the pavement. These devices are incredibly fragile.
Is there any retailer that currently sells the replacement glass/digitizer? I am not thrilled to pay more than I paid for the device to have it repaired ($208!)

kgraves22 said:
Well, it happened. Screen broke just by setting it down face-up on the pavement. These devices are incredibly fragile.
Is there any retailer that currently sells the replacement glass/digitizer? I am not thrilled to pay more than I paid for the device to have it repaired ($208!)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
We're expecting to receive parts for this device. Check back with us soon.

Orange cable
Hey this is sweet! In figure 3.3 I am curious to know what that flex cable is for. Thanks.

repairsuniverse said:
We're expecting to receive parts for this device. Check back with us soon.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Awesome. Is there any possibility you can give me a rough estimate for the part and for full repair? I am subscribing to this thread so I will be looking for your reply when the parts become available. Thank you very much.
By the way, if you ever need information on parts, flashing, or programming for Cricket Communications, I am your man!
Thank you so very much, I've had this device for 10 days and I'm pretty much devastated.

kgraves22 said:
Awesome. Is there any possibility you can give me a rough estimate for the part and for full repair? I am subscribing to this thread so I will be looking for your reply when the parts become available. Thank you very much.
By the way, if you ever need information on parts, flashing, or programming for Cricket Communications, I am your man!
Thank you so very much, I've had this device for 10 days and I'm pretty much devastated.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'll have a better idea when we get the parts in. I'll try and keep you updated or you can visit my website from the link in my signature.

repairsuniverse said:
I'll have a better idea when we get the parts in. I'll try and keep you updated or you can visit my website from the link in my signature.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Did you ever get parts? I need to order a new screen and digitizer for 2nd gen nexus 7.
Thanks

combres said:
Did you ever get parts? I need to order a new screen and digitizer for 2nd gen nexus 7.
Thanks
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
We're still waiting... We have had alot of customers asking the same question.

Does the back cover feel more loose if you snap it back on after taking it off? Or is it still solid?

I need a digitizer only not sure how difficult that is to fix though....

That screen + lcd replacement cost more than what the actual N7 cost at any store. wow

gypsy214 said:
That screen + lcd replacement cost more than what the actual N7 cost at any store. wow
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yeah that price is horrible

keilflex said:
Yeah that price is horrible
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I found this place called xcubicle that replaces the screen and lcd undearneath for 189.00 better price than going to pay 350 for a new one.Also go on etradersupply they sell the screen for cheaper

How adventagious is it to put a tiny plate of copper on where the CPU is? Im not sure how much room there is but my CPU tends to get in the 70c range when browsing at 1.9ghz. I feel like there's be reason to add a chunk of copper to attempt to reduce temps for a little bit before it starts to throttle...

Same here!
kgraves22 said:
Well, it happened. Screen broke just by setting it down face-up on the pavement. These devices are incredibly fragile.
Is there any retailer that currently sells the replacement glass/digitizer? I am not thrilled to pay more than I paid for the device to have it repaired ($208!)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Did you find any seller? I also got my nexus's screen cracked and looked for replacement some site even said 600$ come on who is going to pay that much for screen ... the cheapest i got was 208 $ so even that is high for a device this cheap... so if you or anyone got some idea where and how to get replacement glass/digitizer that will be great help. (LCD is just working fine so why to buy lcd but all of them include lcd which i think makes it expensive. )

Buy a new tablet.
Keep the broken one for a year, spare part will be cheaper.

sk8trix said:
I need a digitizer only not sure how difficult that is to fix though....
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You can go to our site and find the piece your looking for as well as get a free pry tool for the job. We also have a tutorial video you can follow to help you in fixing your phone and have "live chat" support so you can easily get help if needed. But on newer phones we don't recommend getting just the digitizer as it can be a little more difficult to separate from the LCD, and to prevent further issues or complications, it may be worth your time and money to get the combination LCD and Digitizer.

[Repair guide] OnePlus One Full Disassembly/Screen Replacement + Re-assembly Tutorial

The pictures are quite big. Resize the browser window width to shrink the pictures to a more manageable size.
Disclaimer: Perform the following repairs at your own risk. This thread is for educational purposes only. You will void your warranty if you proceed. But that's implied, right?
Disassembly
Many of you will already know how troublesome sending a phone back to the manufacturer for repairs is. This is especially the case for OnePlus, whose after-sales support isn't exceptional, and compared to the price of the OPO itself, their repair costs are by no means affordable ($201 and an unknown amount of days). I've read that a number of forum members have repaired their screens themselves using parts from the internet, but it wasn't all that well documented. So as a mobile phone repairer by profession, I thought it would help a lot of people with broken screens for me to write up a detailed walkthrough/tutorial teaching them how to fix it themselves. Let's get to it!
New: a video! (credits to @stephenlotus)
Note that this guide can be used to replace any modular component; the StyleSwap cover, camera, charging port, you name it - just disassemble your phone until you reach your desired step, replace the faulty/damaged part, then re-assemble it!
Actually obtaining the replacement part? Well, that's another story
Equipment/Materials:
Precision screwdriver set (cross-head/Phillip's head, flat-head)
Sharp craft knife/Stanley knife
Plastic pry tools
Fine-tipped tweezers
Stainless steel pry tools
Thin, rigid cards/guitar picks
Hairdryer/industrial hot air gun (recommended)
Air blower (use this to clean the cameras and lenses before closing it up (not your breath))
A full screen assembly (not just the see-through glass digitizer)*
A roll (or a couple of different widths) of double-sided 3M repair tape or pre-cut 3M tape (see second post)
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*The screen can be bought from various sellers on the internet starting from about $80 for the more repair-friendly version, depending on postage and stuff. Given the exclusive nature of the OnePlus One, any seller that sells a "Genuine/Original/OEM" screen assembly is 95% guaranteed to be an original screen. It isn't profitable for third party manufacturers to produce aftermarket replacements or re-manufacture working LCDs with broken glass (glass broken but LCD still works, remove broken glass and re-laminate a new one onto it). The market is small, because most people would still prefer to RMA their phones.
Also note that this guide assumes you will be re-using the old frame/chassis. If you plan to replace it too, then you will need to remove the earpiece grille (if the new screen doesn't have it) from the old screen, and it's best to move the foam lining from the old frame to the new frame too.
I don't think I'm allowed to disclose sites that sell "original" OnePlus accessories/parts, so get Googling!
Actually, I can now. Mwahahahahaha!
You can buy the screen assembly from sites like eBay and AliExpress. I recommend getting the fully assembled screen, complete with capacitive key backlights:
www.aliexpress.com/item/for-Oneplus...zer-assembly-by-free-shipping/2022582516.html
The one without the button backlights is cheaper, but you'll have to take it from your old screen:
www.aliexpress.com/item/Free-Shippi...mbly-For-Oneplus-One-1-A0001/32245677673.html
Do not get the glass/digitizer only, unless you're up to the challenge, your LCD still works and you want the great savings:
http://www.aliexpress.com/item/Orig...or-OnePlus-One-Free-shipping/32243992827.html
Note: there's absolutely nothing wrong with my OnePlus One (well, except for very mild touchscreen issues). If I were to wait until I actually break it (which is never in a million years), I'd never get around to writing this tutorial. Your experience may vary, depending on severity of damage.
Step 1: Eject the SIM tray.
Step 2: Remove the StyleSwap cover. Using a plastic pry tool, start by lightly wedging it underneath the SIM slot (do not pry), and run it across the gap to release the clips. This ensures minimal/no damage to the battery and/or scratches to the StyleSwap cover, unlike using OnePlus' "Press and Peel" method. Never forget.
Step 3: Using a knife with a sharp tip, remove the rubber screw caps covering the three screws in the middle of the camera lens cover.
Step 4: Unscrew all the screws, and put them in a safe place where you won't lose them.
Step 5: Using a plastic pry tool, pry off the camera cover from the corner near the power button or volume button. Caution! The battery flex may be stuck to the cover, so don't lift it up all the way. Detach it from the cover before fully removing it.
​
Step 6: Using the aforementioned method, do the same for the speaker assembly. Remove the rubber screw caps, unscrew all the screws and store in a safe place. Note how the screws covered with the caps are smaller.
Step 7: Pry off the speaker assembly, starting from the USB port.
Step 8: Use a plastic pry tool to detach the battery flex connector if it hasn't detached yet, then carefully wedge a stainless steel pry tool underneath the battery, starting at the bottom left corner. This side has less adhesive, so it's easier to start on this side. DO NOT PUSH DOWN INTO THE CHASSIS. Delicate flex cables reside here. Keep all pushing of the pry tool as horizontal as possible.
Step 9: Once the left side of the battery has lifted enough, change directions of the pry tool. Use the left side of the chassis as a leverage point, and lift the battery out of the battery well. Be careful not to puncture or deform the battery. You can use a pry tool to cut the adhesive on the right side off the battery.
Step 10: Unplug all the flex cable connectors off the logic board. There are 4 along the bottom edge and 1 to the left of the camera. DO NOT USE THE LOGIC BOARD AS A LEVERAGE POINT. There are delicate surface mount components on the logic board that can easily be damaged accidentally and are nearly impossible to replace. Hold down the logic board, and pull the flex connector up and away from the board.
Alternatively, if you want to cut to the chase and just replace the screen without removing all that other stuff, you can, by only disconnecting the LCD and digitizer flex (rightmost flex along the bottom and the wide flex in the top left corner respectively) and skipping to Step 19. Just remember to remove the plastic block in Step 16 and also be careful not to overheat the earpiece area.
Step 11: Unscrew the screw holding down the logic board. It is located next to the power button. Do not lose it for mix it up with the other screws. It is different in every dimension.
Step 12: Using a sharp knife, peel the button flexes off the chassis, making sure the bottom edge comes off first and be careful not to cut the flex.
Step 13: Push the digitizer flex away from the logic board so it doesn't get caught, and lift the logic board up from the chassis in an arc motion, starting from the top left corner. Rotate it clockwise while doing so.
Step 14: There is still one connector still connected to the logic board on the underside, and that's the cellular antenna connector. Pull the antenna slightly out of its groove.
Step 15: Detach the antenna connector from the logic board using a plastic pry tool. You can use the logic board as the leverage point here, but make sure there aren't any delicate components nearby.
Step 16: Using a pair of fine-tipped tweezers, remove the plastic block that sits next to the digitizer flex connector.
iFixit's teardown does not cover this. If you don't remove it, the flex connector will be caught and will not come out.
Step 17: Carefully, using a flat-head screwdriver, remove the earpiece. This prevents the diaphragm from being damaged later on, when the hot air gun is used.
CAUTION: the earpiece's diaphragm and voice coil has the tendency to fall apart and separate itself from the rest of the earpiece. Be careful.
Step 18 (optional if doing a screen replacement, just don't damage them in the process): Peel the speaker/antenna/vibrate motor flex and USB port flex from the chassis, and remove them.
Step 19: Evenly heat the bezels of the screen using a hairdryer on high heat setting or a hot air gun on a med-high heat setting (~300 °C/~600 °F) on low airflow setting. This softens the adhesive holding the screen in place, making removal easier. Caution! The chassis can become very hot, as it is metal. Do not heat one area for a prolonged period of time, as it can permanently deform the plastic bezel surrounding the screen (or damage the LCD/digitizer, if it's a working one you intend to reuse).
This step I do not have exact instructions for, because my screen isn't broken. I had to be careful not to break it, as it was my only screen. You can use a knife to pry off broken pieces of glass.
WARNING: If you are removing a working intact display and intend to keep it that way, do NOT separate any of the LCD layers from the glass. As it is laminated, separating it will result in permanent damage to the display assembly.
I don't know what this copper does. It doesn't seem significant. New screen assemblies don't seem to have it. Also note that the screen is removed as a single piece assembly.
Step 20: Scrape off the copper bits and the old adhesive from the chassis using a tool of your choice, making sure to not damage anything else.
Step 21: Clean up your work area to prepare for re-assembly! Be careful of broken glass bits.
Obligatory exploded view pic:

Re-assembly
Now might be a good time to fix your grounding issues! If your touch issues arose from the increase of the device's temperature, you may have to cover the whole metallic back of the LCD with tape too.
Note: if the screen still has issues even when isolated as below, then the screen itself may be faulty.
To re-assemble it, it pretty much is just going through the steps in reverse order. When the phone is fully disassembled and nothing is adhered into place, now's the time to test your replacement screen assembly. You can do so by fitting the screen into the frame without using any adhesive, connect it to the logic board along with the battery and turn it on, or if you're lazy like me, just connect it up like this:
It is not recommended to keep the phone powered on for any longer than a few minutes like this, because the logic board effectively has no heatsink.
Step 1: As mentioned before, the old glue can no longer be reused, so we'll have to apply some adhesive tape, cut by hand. If this were a mainstream phone, it'd be pretty easy to get machine-cut 3M tape that fits the bezel perfectly, to ensure an optimal fit.
Sadly, this isn't the case, so we'll have to resort to rolls of that tape of various widths. You can buy these from eBay by searching "3M double sided repair tape".
Update: pre-cut tape is now an option! You can get it on AliExpress .
I personally used 1 mm for the side bezels and 3 mm for the top and bottom, but experiment to obtain maximum coverage. Make sure you don't cover any sensor holes. Usually, this tape in roll form isn't adequately thick, so double up and use two layers.
IMPORTANT: Check that there aren't remnants of broken glass on the bezel when you install the screen or tape. They can cause the screen to easily break.
Also check that you've moved the earpiece grille and capacitive key backlight pads (if the new screen doesn't have them) over from the old screen to the new one. And if you really want to, move the foam ring surrounding the front camera hole in the glass to. It prevents light from the LCD's backlight from leaking into view.
Step 2: Thread the flexes through their respective holes, and fit the screen into the chassis. Lightly heat the bezels (not too much; you don't want to damage the new LCD) to soften the adhesive, and place the screen face down on a clean, flat surface. Push down on the chassis with moderate force.
Step 3: Replace the rubber plastic block that sits in the digitizer flex slot.
Step 4: Make sure the proximity sensor, light sensor and front camera holes are clean and aren't covered by tape.
Step 5: If they were removed during the disassembly, replace the speaker/antenna/vibrate motor flex, then the USB port flex. Watch out for that weird bit that sticks out on the left ide of the speaker flex. Don't forget to reconnect the cellular antenna down the bottom.
Step 6: Put the earpiece back into the chassis. It should be oriented such that the two contact points are next to the digitizer flex.
Step 7: Reconnect the cellular antenna at the logic board. Do not push hardly unless you're absolutely sure it's aligned correctly.
Step 8: Tuck the antenna back into its groove.
Step 9: When reseating the logic board, ensure that the flex connectors stay clear from it. You don't want to have them end up underneath the logic board. Check that the board is flush with the screw holes.
Step 10: Make sure the front camera is also sitting flush. If it isn't, the camera cover may not fit, and the front camera will not be centered.
Step 11: Reconnect all the flex cables, and replace the logic board screw.
Step 12: Stick the button flexes back down onto the chassis.
Step 13: Straighten all the flex cables by lifting them up and stretching them towards the logic board, the stick them back down.
Step 14: Put the battery back in, then reconnect the flex.
Step 15: Replace the camera cover and screw it back into place.
Step 15b: Replace the tamper seal/water damage indicator (you won't get warranty either way, but might as well)
Step 16: Put the speaker assembly back in, and screw it into place.
Step 17: Replace all the rubber screw caps.
Step 18: Replace the StyleSwap cover, and put the SIM tray (with card) back in. Although the tray fits either way (like in Sony's Xperia Z series phones), the side with the gold contacts should face up when the phone faces down. Inserting it upside down will result in the phone not reading the SIM card, and risk damage to the internal SIM reader. LG, HTC and Apple's phones' SIM trays are designed to only fit one-way.
Step 19: Turn the phone on, and enjoy the results of your efforts!

Added to OnePlus One index thread:
[INDEX] OnePlus One Resources Compilation Roll-Up
Transmitted via Bacon

How difficult is this repair for someone who has no experience repairing phones?
I broke my screen 2 days ago and I'm wondering if it's worth trying to repair it, this guide seems pretty solid but some steps look like you might easily break the phone entirely.

naithantu said:
How difficult is this repair for someone who has no experience repairing phones?
I broke my screen 2 days ago and I'm wondering if it's worth trying to repair it, this guide seems pretty solid but some steps look like you might easily break the phone entirely.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
If you have no experience it'll probably be pretty difficult for you, unless you have a good technical/mechanical mind.

timmaaa said:
If you have no experience it'll probably be pretty difficult for you, unless you have a good technical/mechanical mind.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I guess it should be possible to do it myself then, or at least give it a try
I'll probably order a new screen tomorrow, will post here in a month or so when the screen arrived

Query
Excellent guide and I have all the bits removed from the old frame.
I thought I would be an easier route to use a brand new frame, instead of trying to heat the old LCD off.
I have tested everything on the bench and it powers up and we have touch screen
But I have now stopped the reassembly to check the following out. The new frame although having the required sticky parts does not have the black parts, which I assume is insulation.
Do I need this? what can I replace it with, is insulation tape ok although slightly thicker or maybe thin scotch magic tape? The guide mentions a good time to fix the touch screen issues, in the 4 days I had it prior to the drop, I don't think I had an issues, but does this need to be done, and am I right in reading that's also just cover the metal of the screen with insulation tape or scotch magic tape again?
I have attached an image of the black tape I refer to on the frame
Thanks,
Stephen.

CyberActive said:
Query
Excellent guide and I have all the bits removed from the old frame.
I thought I would be an easier route to use a brand new frame, instead of trying to heat the old LCD off.
I have tested everything on the bench and it powers up and we have touch screen
But I have now stopped the reassembly to check the following out. The new frame although having the required sticky parts does not have the black parts, which I assume is insulation.
Do I need this? what can I replace it with, is insulation tape ok although slightly thicker or maybe thin scotch magic tape? The guide mentions a good time to fix the touch screen issues, in the 4 days I had it prior to the drop, I don't think I had an issues, but does this need to be done, and am I right in reading that's also just cover the metal of the screen with insulation tape or scotch magic tape again?
I have attached an image of the black tape I refer to on the frame
Thanks,
Stephen.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
If it was originally in the phone, it's always a good idea to replace it, or use a substitute in place of it. I don't know how it'll affect the phone's functionality if it isn't replaced, because I've never tried it. It's best to play it safe and tape up those corresponding areas with electrical tape. Scotch tape may be too thin.
Dang, 4 days??
Also, does your replacement screen have the earpiece grille pre-installed? When I disassembled mine, the earpiece was not part of the frame, but stuck to the screen.

vantt1 said:
If it was originally in the phone, it's always a good idea to replace it, or use a substitute in place of it. I don't know how it'll affect the phone's functionality if it isn't replaced, because I've never tried it. It's best to play it safe and tape up those corresponding areas with electrical tape. Scotch tape may be too thin.
Dang, 4 days??
Also, does your replacement screen have the earpiece grille pre-installed? When I disassembled mine, the earpiece was not part of the frame, but stuck to the screen.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Ok making some progress
Turns out the black that's under the flat connectors is there on the replacement frame, just a different colour.
I am starting to think that the black that's under the main board could be some sort of heat sink tape? I am referring the black that's actually stuck to the logic board on the top and also on the frame below the logic board and linked to the rear facing camera.
I have tried to remove the old screen with a hair dryer but have failed miserably. So I can not see for myself what the black under the screen was like can you remember if it was like what I believe to be heat sink tape or was it just adhesive or insulation?
Thanks for the heads up about the speaker grill, that is attached to the old screen, I managed to break that out as that's where the screen was smashed.
I have also noticed there is some conductive tape that bridges the frame and back of the screen together, that's not on the replacement parts.
There is also an adhesive o ring stuck to the glass in the front facing camera slot that's not on there replacement part.
Hopefully will get it rebuilt soon
Thanks Stephen

CyberActive said:
Ok making some progress
Turns out the black that's under the flat connectors is there on the replacement frame, just a different colour.
I am starting to think that the black that's under the main board could be some sort of heat sink tape? I am referring the black that's actually stuck to the logic board on the top and also on the frame below the logic board and linked to the rear facing camera.
I have tried to remove the old screen with a hair dryer but have failed miserably. So I can not see for myself what the black under the screen was like can you remember if it was like what I believe to be heat sink tape or was it just adhesive or insulation?
Thanks for the heads up about the speaker grill, that is attached to the old screen, I managed to break that out as that's where the screen was smashed.
I have also noticed there is some conductive tape that bridges the frame and back of the screen together, that's not on the replacement parts.
There is also an adhesive o ring stuck to the glass in the front facing camera slot that's not on there replacement part.
Hopefully will get it rebuilt soon
Thanks Stephen
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yeah, that tape is very similar to the type that's found on the inside of the iPhone 5's midframe. Apparently it's a "heat dissipation shield" film. You can probably buy it on eBay then trim it to the same shape as the original.
I don't know what that copper stuff that bridges the LCD to the frame is. I scraped off the bridging bits, and nothing seems off on my end.
Replace that O ring if you can. If you use the front camera, the backlight from the LCD might leak into view. I know it does on the Nexus 5.

Great stuff, slowly getting there, I will get that orderderd and cut to size, these are what I am looking at:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/iPhone-4-...K_Replacement_Parts_Tools&hash=item418dc2333a
and / or
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1x-iPhone...nk-dissipation-adhesive-sticker-/171636569146
Was it this same stuff that was on the frame surface behind the LCD? or was that just insulation?
Also you mentioned the touch screen fix, what is involved in that?
Thanks Stephen.

CyberActive said:
Great stuff, slowly getting there, I will get that orderderd and cut to size, these are what I am looking at:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/iPhone-4-...K_Replacement_Parts_Tools&hash=item418dc2333a
and / or
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1x-iPhone...nk-dissipation-adhesive-sticker-/171636569146
Was it this same stuff that was on the frame surface behind the LCD? or was that just insulation?
Also you mentioned the touch screen fix, what is involved in that?
Thanks Stephen.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The stuff behind the LCD is more of a foam tape/film than a graphite tape. It feels similar to the one found behind the Nexus 5's LCD, but darker and smoother. And of course, the Nexus 5's isn't big enough.
The touchscreen fix involves putting tape on the chassis underneath the digitizer flex. If the issue was heat related, the metallic back of the LCD may need to be taped up too (apparently along the perimeter, creating a rectangle).
See above picture, circled in red: it looks like there's some heat dissipation tape underneath the LCD too.

Ah ok, any suggestions on what I could replace the stuff behind the LCD with then? I have searched for the nexus 5 stuff and I can no locate any of that either.
Thanks,
Stephen.

CyberActive said:
Ah ok, any suggestions on what I could replace the stuff behind the LCD with then? I have searched for the nexus 5 stuff and I can no locate any of that either.
Thanks,
Stephen.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
At the moment the best way to obtain it would probably be to take it out of your old frame. It's really hard to find OnePlus One specific parts these days.

guess I will have to go buy a heat gun over the next few days as I tried using a hair dryer and was not able to get even a little bit of movement on lifting the lcd from the frame.
I will post back over the new few days how it goes. fingers crossed.

I followed this guide and it was perfect!
The only downside is that when heating the screen i've managed seperate the plastic bezel from the screen it's self which is now out of shape as well. I'm hoping if i just heat it back up a little I can reform it back.
Just waiting on delivery of some repair tape.

hi guys i just send my one to repair for over 150€ because i thought it could only be changed as a wholle.. screen functions online half of the screen touchscreen doesnt work becuase of a small crack on the side.....SO DO I NEED JUST A NEW TOUCH DIGITIZER??? is this also with the corning glass on top?? mits not right??

Finally got everything I needed to go ahead with the screen replacement. This teardown was extremely helpful. I did have one snag and I haven't tested yet. When removing the earpiece it disassembled into two pieces and unwound but I gingerly repositioned the copper thread and left the earpiece in during the heating and old screen removal.
The new screen is outstanding and completely changes the experience of using the One Plus One. I only wish they had done better quality control in the first place.

Thanks for this guide. I'm going to order a new screen/digitizer today. I guess in about a month I'll be attempting this. When I broke my OnePlus I ordered a new one that day, so I plan on selling the second one if this repair is successful. If it's not, then I guess I lose $70 and some time. Wish me luck!

This is interesting. If appears a new battery technology would be nice guide.