This screen repair guide will allow you to safely and quickly repair damaged touch screen digitizer, LCD (AMOLED), and other internal parts of your Samsung Epic 4G. Disassemble your Epic 4G and get your Samsung smartphone working like new again!
This guide will help you to install the following Samsung Epic 4G part(s):
Samsung Epic 4G LCD & Touch Screen Glass Digitizer Assembly
Tools Required:
Safe Open Pry Tool
Small Phillips Screwdriver
T5 Torx Screwdriver
Samsung Epic 4G Take Apart Guide:
Remove the back battery cover by pressing in the button at the bottom of the phone, which will then loosen the cover. Then, you can remove the battery.
Now remove the back housing by removing six (6) screws that are holding it in place. There is one located at each corner and one on the center of each side.
Using the safe open pry tool, carefully insert the open pry tool in the crack between the back housing and the front housing of the phone. Start at the bottom, and gently loosen, working your way all the way around the phone. Then remove the back housing by pulling it gently away from the front part of the phone.
Next, use the open pry tool to unlock the keyboard and antenna clips. These are located at the left side of the motherboard, and appear as flat pieces of metal. Using the open pry tool, carefully insert it beneath them and press upward, to bend them into a straight up position instead of flat with the board as they currently are.
Figure 1
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Then you will disconnect the antenna wire, which appears as a small white wire on the right side of the battery location (shown in figure 1). Using nippers, gently pull up on the top and bottom parts of this wire to disconnect it from the phone. Do not fully remove it, simply disconnect it and leave it as it is.
Remove the loud speaker from the bottom of the phone by removing one small screw on the bottom left that holds the loud speaker in place.
At this point, everything should be disconnected so that you can gently remove the entire motherboard from the phone’s housing.
Remove the keyboard frame by removing four screws from the center of the phone. Two of these are located in the black plastic beneath where the motherboard was located. Then, removing the sticker beneath the battery housing (as shown in figure 2) with the safe open pry tool to reveal two more screws that need to be removed. Then, gently pull up on the keyboard frame and it should come off without difficulty.
Figure 2
Now you will remove the C side housing by removing four screws located in a row, beneath the flex cable that is still hanging in place. Then you can remove the C side housing, but be careful not to damage the flex cable as it maneuvers through the hole.
Remove the slide rail by removing four screws, one at each corner. Two of these screws have rubber round covers that will need to be removed with nippers and placed aside. Use the open safe pry tool to pry apart at the top and bottom of the phone. Then move to the sides, where there are six (6) total clips holding the slide rail in place-3 on each side. Using the open pry tool, careful pry apart the sides, being careful not to damage the flex cable. Try to have all sides pried apart before pulling off the slide rail.
Now remove the slide rail flex cable by using nippers to remove the small blue pieces of tape, as shown in figure 3.
Figure 3
The odd-shaped black cable beneath the tape is the slide rail flex cable. By removing the front camera flex cable gently (a beige small cable located behind the camera lens) with nippers, you will be able to pry up the last end of the slide rail flex cable, and gently remove it.
Now you're Samsung Epic 4G will be completely taken apart allowing you to install any replacement parts you have purchased. Keep all parts together in the order you took them apart, and simply reverse the order to put the phone back together.
This should be stickied lol, very good guide, I just hope I never have to use it .
Sent from my SPH-D700 using xda premium
+1 Sticky request
Sent from my MIUI V4 Epic 4G via Tapatalk 2 beta 4
Thanks guys!
Glad you found it useful!
Nice guide! Ive done multiple screen replacements on the Epic and other phones and will say that this is a good start. As i recall... dont you have a youtube video explaining this??
EDIT: hmmm i couldnt find it so i guess not lol sorry!
travmofosho said:
Nice guide! Ive done multiple screen replacements on the Epic and other phones and will say that this is a good start. As i recall... dont you have a youtube video explaining this??
EDIT: hmmm i couldnt find it so i guess not lol sorry!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Glad you liked it!
We didn't do a video for the Epic however we did do a video for a couple of other Samsung phones which were very similar models and process for the screen replacement.
A few months ago the local Sprint store replaced the screen on my phone. Now the screen is loose on one side and doesn't quite sit square. Not sure if something loosened up or is bent or what, but this guide will be useful as I take the phone apart and try to tighten up the slider.
Thanks.
Nice. minor point...
repairsuniverse said:
Tools Required:
Safe Open Pry Tool
Small Phillips Screwdriver
T5 Trox Screwdriver
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It is spelled Torx.
LargePrime said:
Nice. minor point...It is spelled Torx.
[/LIST]
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Typo fixed.
I've taken apart several Epics, not using this guide although I wish I would have lol, so I know that there are some very detailed steps involved. Thank you very much for creating this thread and taking the time to write up a how-to! I am a strong advocate of doing-it-yourself so this kind of thing makes me glad that there are others who refuse to pay exorbitant amounts of money for repairs that could be done on your own, for much cheaper.
Sent from my SPH-D700 using xda premium
2 errors in this guide, just trying to help out from a Sprint tech standpoint.
A T5 screwdriver is not needed. All the screws in the SPHD700 are Phillips.
Removing the speaker is unnecessary. Sure if you need to replace the speaker, but removing the plate that houses the keyboard components does not require the speaker to be removed. It's best practice not to unless necessary, simply because the speaker has a cable component underneath that snaps into a corresponding cable on the keyboard; failure to ensure it sits properly will of course prevent your speaker and vibrator from working.
Heretofore, removing the bottom end of the white antenna wire from the speaker is also unnecessary.
Sent from my SPH-D710 using xda premium
Just wondering - where is everyone ordering replacement parts from?
Perhaps when this info is answered it could be added to the OP so that all the info is in one nice easy to find area
altimuh said:
Just wondering - where is everyone ordering replacement parts from?
Perhaps when this info is answered it could be added to the OP so that all the info is in one nice easy to find area
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Samsung Epic replacement parts can be found here - Samsung Epic Replacement Parts
Hope this helps.
Great guide
Thanks for such a great write up.
blamethenetwork said:
Thanks for such a great write up.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
No problem.
Glad you found it useful.
When my phone is in landscape mode the swype doesnt work when im swyping say the word android where i have to slide left and right. I dont know what the internals of the epic4g is made up of but im guessing theres a digitizer or sensor part under the outer screen. Could it be the problem or is there some app for calibrating the touch screen where im having trouble getting the word to complete through long left and right swype movements? I used the dev tools to test the areas i touch and it appears fine but not very accurate but doesnt seem like im having bad areas on the touchscreen.
Sent from my SPH-D700 using XDA
Does anyone have any experience replacing just the glass without replacing the LCD and digitizer? I cracked my glass and eBay has the part for very cheap, but sprint wants $100 deductaple to replace the phone. I'm wondering if the LCD and glass are bonded together.
zman0900 said:
Does anyone have any experience replacing just the glass without replacing the LCD and digitizer? I cracked my glass and eBay has the part for very cheap, but sprint wants $100 deductaple to replace the phone. I'm wondering if the LCD and glass are bonded together.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
From what I've heard is the digitizer is so close to the screen or glass its really impossible to do it with out error... you'd have to get the whole deal and replace it.
Also might want to drop TEP as it requires a deductible and get a third party protection plan...
Sent from my SPH-D700 using xda premium
ÜBER™ said:
From what I've heard is the digitizer is so close to the screen or glass its really impossible to do it with out error... you'd have to get the whole deal and replace it.
Also might want to drop TEP as it requires a deductible and get a third party protection plan...
Sent from my SPH-D700 using xda premium
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Went ahead and payed the $100. The cable that connects the two haves of the slider was sticking out of the case, so I took the phone apart to try plugging it back in hoping I could at least make the cracked screen light up. Turns out the cable was broken too, so I figured it would be cheaper to just get the replacement. Thanks for that 3rd party plan idea. I'll have to look into that for my next phone.
cm9eq
zman0900 said:
Went ahead and payed the $100. The cable that connects the two haves of the slider was sticking out of the case, so I took the phone apart to try plugging it back in hoping I could at least make the cracked screen light up. Turns out the cable was broken too, so I figured it would be cheaper to just get the replacement. Thanks for that 3rd party plan idea. I'll have to look into that for my next phone.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yeah I'm buying my gnex from wirefly and they offer a premium protection plan for 7.50 a month and it covers everything... theft, damage, etc. With NO deductible. not bad...
Sent from my SPH-D700 using xda premium
Related
Does your Google Nexus One outer screen was cracked or damaged? Also having problem with the display? This written repair guide shows how to disassemble your Google Nexus One cell phone quickly and safely.
This guide will help you to install the following Google Nexus One parts:
Google Nexus One LCD Screen Replacement
Google Nexus One Touch Screen Digitizer Replacement
Tools Required:
Safe Open Pry Tool
Small Phillips Screwdriver
T5 Torx Screwdriver
Adhesive Strips (For Touch Screen Repair)
Google Nexus One Take apart guide:
In order to disassemble a Google Nexus One phone first of all you need to remove the battery cover (rear back cover) of the phone.
After the removal of the battery cover you should be able to see three screws - a Phillips screw at the left-middle side and two T5 screws at the top-left corner and top-right corner. Remove all three screws using the respective screwdrivers. Remember to note the positions of screws for the reassembly.
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Figure 1
After removing the three screws, use a pry tool to pry off the frame (battery tray).
Now pry the bottom cover off using the pry tool again, this would be slightly difficult as it is held tighter.
There will be two more T5 screws to be removed after the bottom cover comes off. These will be located at bottom left and bottom right corners of the phone. Remove both of these screws using the Torx 5 Screwdriver
Use the pry tool again to pry the bottom frame off.
You will now have to remove two more Phillips screws using the small Phillips screw driver. These screws will be positioned at bottom-left and top-left corners of the phone.
Undo the three flex connections which can be found at the lower-right half of the phone. You can use the pry tool to achieve this.
Figure 2
Undo the coaxial cable connection which will be located at the upper-left side of the phone.
After you have undone the flex connections and the coaxial cable, you can pry the top board off to unclip it.
Figure 3
Remove the volume button.
Unhook the main board from the peg and then push it up and out of the phone. Note, the rubber microphone channel might fall out. Put it aside and don't lose it.
Upon removal of the main board you will find three more screws almost inline at the bottom end of the phone which are required to be removed to free the trackball assembly beneath the plate.
After removing the three screws lift this plate to free the trackball assembly (this is similar to that of Blackberry trackball).
Loosen the tape holding the LCD in place.
Figure 4
Free the flex connector from the LCD. It’s held on with tape.
Now the LCD can come out. Carefully unclip it using the pry tool (you can use the pry tool for this).
Your Nexus one is now fully disassembled. Reverse the instructions above to reassemble your phone.
Wow, great guide, that's what I need!
My screen got cracked, but the phone and touch still work. So this means i need to replace only the lcd and NOT the digitizer?
Step by Step Video Guide
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hTRXSMQ-GJY
ultra99 said:
Wow, great guide, that's what I need!
My screen got cracked, but the phone and touch still work. So this means i need to replace only the lcd and NOT the digitizer?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
If the outside glass is cracked then you need the touch screen digitizer replacement.
If your image is bad then you need the LCD screen replacement.
If both your outside glass is cracked and you have a bad image then sadly you need both the touch screen digitizer and LCD screen replacements.
Hope this clears things up. Let us know if you have further questions.
repairsuniverse said:
If the outside glass is cracked then you need the touch screen digitizer replacement.
If your image is bad then you need the LCD screen replacement.
If both your outside glass is cracked and you have a bad image then sadly you need both the touch screen digitizer and LCD screen replacements.
Hope this clears things up. Let us know if you have further questions.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
THe image and touch are fine, so maybe it's the outside screen?
I already bought this: http://www.ebay.com/itm/270940310857?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649
Is that the wrong item?
ultra99 said:
THe image and touch are fine, so maybe it's the outside screen?
I already bought this:
Is that the wrong item?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That is the correct part to replace the cracked glass. However it looks as though its a cheap imitation part which are common on eBay. But providing it works it will fix your cracked glass issue.
Good luck, i recorded all 45 steps on the vidz i posted to youtube if you want someone to keep you company, granted the steps i posted are sort of tedious and over cautious... and people complain i replaced the touchscreen really slowwwly, but eh, at least its done !
---------- Post added at 11:21 AM ---------- Previous post was at 11:12 AM ----------
Will repair universe have a digitizer repair guide for the Samsung Galaxy Nexus?
Yes. We actually already have a guide for the Samsung Galaxy Nexus S.
A great companion to this written guide is our Nexus One video repair guide. Using it while referring to the guide above is a great way to insure a quick repair is made. We also have the guide above in a downloadable format so you can easily print and refer to while preforming a screen repair, etc.
Need urgent help
Hi!! first of all amazing guide. THank YOU!! This is my first post here and i dont know much about phones.
The thing is last week my nexus one fell from my pocket and its screen went blank. NO Display. Although if there is an incoming call i can slide on the screen , unlock it and talk but cant see anything
So, here is my question. To repair my phone do i need to buy a touch screen digitizer or LCD??
Need help asap...handicapped without my phone..
coolestchap143 said:
Hi!! first of all amazing guide. THank YOU!! This is my first post here and i dont know much about phones.
The thing is last week my nexus one fell from my pocket and its screen went blank. NO Display. Although if there is an incoming call i can slide on the screen , unlock it and talk but cant see anything
So, here is my question. To repair my phone do i need to buy a touch screen digitizer or LCD??
Need help asap...handicapped without my phone..
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hi,
If you are getting no image on the screen then you will need the LCD screen replacement to fix your device. You can find this part here - http://www.repairsuniverse.com/google-nexus-one-replacement-screens-parts.html
I can't see no where to ask questions. Not a noob just in need of desperate help. My sisters n1 just got stuck in hboot with the white screen. I can get into recovery but that's about it. Can anyone help Me!! I've been pulling my hair out over 2 damn hours!!!!!!!!
Sent from my GT-I9100 using xda premium
androidkid311 said:
I can't see no where to ask questions. Not a noob just in need of desperate help. My sisters n1 just got stuck in hboot with the white screen. I can get into recovery but that's about it. Can anyone help Me!! I've been pulling my hair out over 2 damn hours!!!!!!!!
Sent from my GT-I9100 using xda premium
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
What caused this. Was this following opening the device or a drop?
repairsuniverse said:
What caused this. Was this following opening the device or a drop?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
She doesn't even know. She knows nothing about android. Just how to make calls and send texts lol. I will take a picture when she gets back and upload it in the Q&A section I didn't see earlier (slaps forehead). Thanks for your reply
Sent from my GT-I9100 using xda premium
androidkid311 said:
She doesn't even know. She knows nothing about android. Just how to make calls and send texts lol. I will take a picture when she gets back and upload it in the Q&A section I didn't see earlier (slaps forehead). Thanks for your reply
Sent from my GT-I9100 using xda premium
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
No problem.
Screen Repair Question
Wonderful technicians of Repairs Universe,
I purchased a Nexus One LCD Screen from Repairs Universe, and followed your step by step replacement instructions. The new screen has been installed, and even so, when I boot the phone, the screen never turns on. I can feel the phone vibrate, and it seems to respond to touch commands. However, I am still unable to see the screen with the replacement.
I was just wondering if you had any further suggestions for me. If you could, please email me with your reply. [email protected]
I purchased the screen last week, and installed it on Friday 05/10/13
Any help you could provide would be greatly appreciated!
Thank you!
coolestchap143 said:
Hi!! first of all amazing guide. THank YOU!! This is my first post here and i dont know much about phones.
The thing is last week my nexus one fell from my pocket and its screen went blank. NO Display. Although if there is an incoming call i can slide on the screen , unlock it and talk but cant see anything
So, here is my question. To repair my phone do i need to buy a touch screen digitizer or LCD??
Need help asap...handicapped without my phone..
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It sounds like it will most likely need a new LCD screen. Good luck!
Today i win an auction from ebay.de HTC Google Nexus One for only 11.50 Euro !
I already have an HTC Google Nexus One phone, and now i have to repair this one
fancyfree said:
Today i win an auction from ebay.de HTC Google Nexus One for only 11.50 Euro !
I already have an HTC Google Nexus One phone, and now i have to repair this one
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Well if you need a quality touch screen digitizer and LCD screen, we have them available at RepairsUniverse (dot) com.
Thanks but Ebay has better prices !
Does your outer touchscreen for Galaxy Tab has been damaged or cracked? This take apart repair guide shows you how to disassemble the Samsung P1000 Galaxy Tab cell phone quickly and safely. This guide can assist with the installation of replacement parts.
This guide will help you to install the following Samsung P1000 Galaxy Tab part:
Samsung P1000 Galaxy Tab Touch Screen Digitizer Replacement
Tools Required:
Safe Open Pry Tool
Tri Wings Screwdriver
Small Philips Screwdriver
Adhesive Stips (For Touch Screen Digitizer Replacements)
Samsung P1000 Galaxy Tab Take apart guide:
There are two screws at the bottom of the unit, and under two small plastic discs, use your small blade to remove this. With the discs remove you can use your tri wings screw drivers to remove the two screws as shown in Figure 1.
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Figure 1
Using your case opener tool begin to pry the back case of the unit be careful the buttons on the sides start from the bottom and work your way around.
With the back case remove, you can now remove the battery, the battery is held to the motherboard with the single screw and the connector, use your Philip screw driver to remove the screw and your case opener tool to pry the connector free, and gently pull the battery from the unit.
There are seven screws that you'll need to remove from the motherboard as shown in Figure 2. You can now remove the six ribbon connectors on the motherboard. These connectors for the back facing camera. After removing the connector gently pull up and the camera will come up as well.
Figure 2
These connectors for the back facing camera. After removing the connector gently pull up and the camera will come out as well. With the screws and connectors remove, you can now lift the motherboard from the unit.
Carefully remove the ribbon cable for the LCD from the connector on the back of the screen assembly. Use your case opener tool to pull out the plastic tab.
You can now apply heat to the outside edges (front of device). We suggest using a heat gun or hair dryer. 30 seconds to a minute is all you will need to loosen the adhesive. Immediately use a safe open pry tool on the outside edges of the screen and the housing. Re-heat if necessary.
Remove the housing from the screen assembly. You can now use a safe open pry tool to release the touch screen from the LCD screen. Apply heat if needed.
Your Samsung Galaxy Tab P1000 is now disassembled and the appropriate parts can be replaced.
To reassemble, follow this guide in reverse.
Simply reverse the order to put the phone back together.
Thanks, useful. Been looking for something like this. Using guitar pick...
Sent from my GT-P6800 using Tapatalk
fluffmonster said:
Thanks, useful. Been looking for something like this. Using guitar pick...
Sent from my GT-P6800 using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks. Glad it helped!!
What kind of adhesive is used to re-attach the digitizer
I just stuck a cheap 1 $ Screen guard on my tab... as it was bigger in size than my tab... i had to use a cutter to cut it and so i inserted the cutter in between the panel and the glass digitizer in all the four sides for cutting the extra part of screen guard.... and today after a week i saw the digitizer coming off the tab.... pls help me wat to do... the four corners of he digzer and the inside panel are still a bit sticky....
What kind of adhesive is used to re-attach the digitizer. Or maybe the soft gasket around the display melts and becomes the adhesive under heat?
Hi
Repaired two of mine and on went perfectly but the other has mess with green but if I push down on the tab screen then it is perfect.
Been debating weather to take apart again and resit everything. Also noticed on LCD itself there is a like loose liquid pattern ( if you know what I mean) nor to sure if they are connected.
Regards
Here is the pic
if you can see the green pattern
now here is when I push the screen in slightly
Just wondering before I go and take apart again is there any point or is there anything you can advise?
Sent from my LT26i using XDA
saheb_mnm said:
I just stuck a cheap 1 $ Screen guard on my tab... as it was bigger in size than my tab... i had to use a cutter to cut it and so i inserted the cutter in between the panel and the glass digitizer in all the four sides for cutting the extra part of screen guard.... and today after a week i saw the digitizer coming off the tab.... pls help me wat to do... the four corners of he digzer and the inside panel are still a bit sticky....
What kind of adhesive is used to re-attach the digitizer. Or maybe the soft gasket around the display melts and becomes the adhesive under heat?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
We recommend the adhesive strips here to create a secure bond. These are the correct thickness strips for the touch screen. Digitizer adhesive strips
fluffmonster said:
Thanks, useful. Been looking for something like this. Using guitar pick...
Sent from my GT-P6800 using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That's pretty clever, really. Not sure why I haven't thought of using a guitar pick rather than stocking up on "Special Service Tools."
do u deliver in india????
repairsuniverse said:
We recommend the adhesive strips here to create a secure bond. These are the correct thickness strips for the touch screen. Digitizer adhesive strips
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
do u deliver in india????
---------- Post added at 12:37 PM ---------- Previous post was at 12:31 PM ----------
alexgogan said:
Hi
Repaired two of mine and on went perfectly but the other has mess with green but if I push down on the tab screen then it is perfect.
Been debating weather to take apart again and resit everything. Also noticed on LCD itself there is a like loose liquid pattern ( if you know what I mean) nor to sure if they are connected.
Regards
Here is the pic
if you can see the green pattern
now here is when I push the screen in slightly
Just wondering before I go and take apart again is there any point or is there anything you can advise?
Sent from my LT26i using XDA
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I Just want to know wat glue u used to stick the screen back....
how did u stick the Touch Digitizer...???
I got 3M 2mm double sided tape for this, Repair Universe screen I think comes with the tape on it, and if it doesn't its about $4
alexgogan said:
I got 3M 2mm double sided tape for this, Repair Universe screen I think comes with the tape on it, and if it doesn't its about $4
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
thank You ... i am just wondering where can I get it.....
Deliver to India?
saheb_mnm said:
do u deliver in india????
Sorry we do not ship to India.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hey what keyboard dock are you using?
It's one I sourced from China could not get what I wanted so am bringing in a few of them to sell on my site when it's launched later this month, have seen a few on eBay though but were not as good.
Regards
Sent from my LT26i using XDA
Sorry it took so long but we do ship to India now. Chat with us on our site for immediate assistance.
saz542 said:
thank You ... i am just wondering where can I get it.....
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
We carry the adhesive strips on our site. A link to the site can be found in our signature below.
Apologies. My English is not a professional!
Hi.
I token apart many mobile and tab items. This one was so easy to do.
If you crack or broke something when you take apart your Nook HD+ then all responsibility goes only for you. My guide is only for knowledge base.
You lose WARRANTY when you take apart your device!
Ok, lets start.
Tools you need:
1. Plastic Triangle Pry Tool
2. Plastic Pry Tool
3. Torx T5 Screwdriver
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1. Take Plastic Triangle Pry Tool and place it to screen on bottom side where screen bezel corner is cut off. VERY GENTLY push the Plastic Triangle Pry Tool behind bezel and screen.
Be aware! Plastic Bezel is very soft and you can broke bezel legs. About which legs I talk, you see on 7 step pictures.
2. Don't take away Plastic Triangle Pry Tool. Move around the entire inside of the plastic bezel. You hear how double sided tape be open.
3. Again don't take away Plastic Triangle Pry Tool. Push it VERY GENTLY more inside, but be aware you can broke little bezel plastic leg.
4. You see that bezel corner goes up at body. Now push Plastic Pry Tool at another side behind bezel and body and remove Plastic Triangle Pry Tool
5. Place Plastic Triangle Pry Tool at outside behind body and bezel and move around the entire outside of the plastic bezel. You again hear how double sided tape be open.
6. Now gently remove bezel at body. You need gently help with Plastic Pry Tool.
7. Hard part is done and this is how looks bezel and legs. These legs are around bezel.
8. Take Torx T5 Screwdriver
9. Unscrew the all screws (marked green on picture) except red marked screws on picture. If you unscrew these screws you can broke one copper foil which one makes ground/background to WiFi antenna.
All screws are same size!
10. Now take Nook to left hand power button side to down and with Plastic Triangle Pry Tool GENTLY detach backside plastic cover a little bit at body. Be aware battery is attached to backside plastic cover and you can broke battery connector on motherboard if you use here power on detach.
11. With right hand fingers GENTLY move battery power cable at mainboard. Place all pieces GENTLY to table.
12. All done. Now it look like this!
Enjoy!
YouTube video example
http://youtu.be/HpVrds3g-M8
When you place back Plastic bezel, you need replace 3mm Double sided tape around bezel. I used this one 3M Sticker tape Double sided tape Adhesive For housing touch screen LCD 3mm
You are welcome to redistribute it but ask for consent before!
I try monitor this thread and reply.
Thanks! I've done a few screen-ectomies in my past, and this will be a useful guide if I need to again. The question I have, did you get it back together?
I can't tell from the Pic. Is that space in the center right a Ram slot that might allow and increase to 2 gig? A Rom upgrade looks like it might be simple also.
edit: my mistake - the the ram slot is actually the Battery contact.
dbh369 said:
Thanks! I've done a few screen-ectomies in my past, and this will be a useful guide if I need to again. The question I have, did you get it back together?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
This baby opened second time for making this guide. Yes i can make reverse guide too but i dont see reason. Because there are nothing to do. Just put all back. And YES, it works.
One thing have which one i write on monday. You need 3mm double sided clear or black 3M tape to replace tape on bezel.
Nuor60 said:
I can't tell from the Pic. Is that space in the center right a Ram slot that might allow and increase to 2 gig? A Rom upgrade looks like it might be simple also.
edit: my mistake - the the ram slot is actually the Battery contact.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Are there even ram modules for tablets being sold? With which form factor are we dealing here?
If it can be upgraded though it would be great news, 1 gig is rather constraining.
Added video and link for example 3M double sided 3mm tape.
Huh...
I probably should have not read this topic. As a hardware engineer I might have some sleepless nights dreaming of wireless charging circuitry and a microUSB hacked into this beautiful body...
OyaNET said:
Huh...
I probably should have not read this topic. As a hardware engineer I might have some sleepless nights dreaming of wireless charging circuitry and a microUSB hacked into this beautiful body...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
What is your point?
datas0ft said:
What is your point?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Point is, that I love my HD+, but I miss standard micro USB connection and wireless charging.
I'm already running late on a few projects of mine but after seeing the pics I cant get rid of the thoughts of hardware hacking my HD+ to integrate the above features.
BTW. I'm really grateful for the teardown pictures and description.
OyaNET said:
Huh...
I probably should have not read this topic. As a hardware engineer I might have some sleepless nights dreaming of wireless charging circuitry and a microUSB hacked into this beautiful body...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Go for it, then quit your day job! Lol.
Better yet, build a converter adaptor, micro usb female to Nook 30-pin male, then we could use the HD+ for USB hosting.
thanks!
is screen replacement possible?
I am looking at your pictures to determine if it is possible to replace a cracked screen. I dropped mine on the concrete sidewalk and the glass cracked.:crying: The functionality is fine, the lcd was not damaged, just the "glass" (or plastic more likely). I would like to replace it with a new one, but if it is really impossible to do without breaking parts such as the foil ground wire, etc, then I guess I will put up with a cracked screen. Do you think it is really feasible to replace the lcd and digitizer? Thanks.
could i charge the battery directly?
loverppc said:
could i charge the battery directly?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
My Nook HD+ is not charging anymore since one week. Battery goes low now, only green light no orange, tried 2 original power adapter, is it possible to recharche batterie without the internal charging electronics with an external one or is it possible to connect 5v power adapter directly to nook hd+?
thanks!
retaped down the bezel on my HD Plus
nice guide
Is the N home button accessible through this method, or is that built within the screen making it difficult to access? My N button on a Nook HD+ is not very responsive and has to be pressed hard to get it to work (purchased it on ebay), anyone know if this is fixable? I have a Nook HD as well which was brand new and that one's button is very responsive and works with the slightest of touch.
Ok, so i opened my Nook HD+ up and the micro switch is definitely accessible, but it needs to be replaced as the previous owner seems to have been a bit too harsh with it. Anyone know where i can get an exact replacement? I've replaced car fob key micro switches before, so this shouldn't be an issue.
Here's a photo from the Nook Tablet, the switch is the same in the HD+ (it's about an inch above the USB)
http://d3nevzfk7ii3be.cloudfront.net/igi/BWtQHPQKynJJROds
Does anyone know where I could buy one of the connectors to attach the digitizer's flexi ribbon to the motherboard?
Mine fast shutdown when in use, despite fully charged. And cannot be tured on, unless plugged in. Use while wired id's fine throughout.
is that battery issue?
Any generic battery module to recommend that can fit?
Dimensions of battery pack please?
Just buy a used Nook. They are fairly cheap. Harvest a battery out of one with a broken screen perhaps.
OK - the burning question many people have had has been answered - Can I replace my screen?
The answer is yes, but it is not for the fainthearted.
My poor HTC One came to grief recently hitting a marble floor and while useable came off second best.
Investigation with local phone repairers yielded little. I could only find one company in Melbourne that wanted $295 to fix the screen on a $700 phone.
Looking around online I could only find teardown clips and the ifixit rating of 1 which isn't terribly confidence inspiring.
So this left me with a three options
1. Cut my losses and by a new phone
2. Cough up for a repairer
3. Have a crack at it myself
I started off searching for replacement screens on e-bay and after a bit more searching came across etradesupply.
Not only did they have all the parts they also gave me an idea, if I am changing screen, why not colour? I always liked the black one a bit more but was too impatient and bought the silver one.
So I went for it and ordered the screen and digitizer as an assembly
etradesupply.com/oem-htc-one-lcd-screen-and-digitizer-assembly-with-front-housing.html[/url]
and new rear housing
etradesupply.com/oem-htc-one-rear-housing-black-with-htc-and-beatsaudio-logo.html[/url]
I also ordered a few tools and about 5 days later my parts arrived.
Over this period I watched the youtube tear down clips and also reviewed the iFixit guide and wondered what had I got myself in for.
So I decided tonight was the night to go for it.
I started by trying to pry off the bottom speaker with the intent of working around the old housing. My delusions of grandeur of an elegant fix disappeared quickly as the zero gap was an impenetrable fortress that could not be penetrated until I hacked the base off breaking the bottom off where the polycarbonate seam is.
After a good half an hour of hacking and prying my case was off showing off the sheer complexity of the interior.
THIS WAS NOT LOOKING PROMISING
So as I looked over this and thought ok, lets start unscrewing and this is where I hit my first obstacle. My precision screwdrivers were not precise enough so a quick trip to the local hardware store and I was in business.
I decided to try and take the path of least tear down. Looking at the clips I felt I could achieve the outcome without a complete tear down. My advice to anyone else thinking the same is DO NOT DO THIS.
While I got there in the end, the antennas are fragile and any tension will snap them as I discovered. Not a big deal as a few seconds with the soldering iron fixed it, but it is easier to simply detach and re-attach them.
So after taking off various bits of tape, screws, ribbons and prying the battery out of the case which is well glued with adhesive I was almost there. If you watch the tear down clip, be prepared to rip every last item out and disassemble as per the clip. All the way down to the vibration motor.
It was about here I was ready to abandon all hope, I had disassembled and had thought I had reassembled and when I did a test boot, nothing....
I pushed, prodded, poked and tested all the connections and still nothing.
I disassembled and ensured every tricky little ribbon was connected and like a patient in a medical drama when it has had two shocks with the defibrillator, when I tried again it kicked in to life.
Screen works - Yes
Wi-Fi works - Yes
Bluetooth works - Yes
Audio works - Yes
3G/HSDPA works - Yes
Test call works - Yes
All of a sudden when I thought I was off to buy a new handset my HTC One had kicked back in to life. My transplant had patient was alive but still critical.
So I started the process of taping up the ribbons, screwing in all the screws and getting it in shape for the final part - attaching the rear housing.
I lowered the rear housing on to the exposed wires like Darth Vader's mask lowering on to Anakin at the end of Revenge of The Sith and just as I thought victory was mine there was a moment of dread.... it didn't fit
I delicately pried off the housing and took a look, the convoluted assembly around the charger socket was the culprit. After some re-evaluation and re-organisation of the plate, the rear housing was secured and the death star, oops no the HTC One M7 in black was fully operational
So about 3 hours after I started my task is complete, black is a much nicer look, however, the zero gap isn't as zero as it was before but will do.
I think if I were to do it again I would do it in under two hours, but the repairer estimates of 3 hours isn't outlandish.
If you cracked your screen and want to replace it, then I would say go for it and buy the assembly and housing as I did.
If you simply want to change colours for no other reason that you want to, I would caution against this. The work is serious and has risks. It is a repair of last resort.
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one minor thing to point out, the Sim Card Tray ships seperate so anyone thinking of a colour transplant will need to add that to the list.
Showed off my repaired One today, my workmates who are all in IT were mighty impressed, thought I had no chance of getting it done after looking at the tear down on iFixit
Dredd73 said:
one minor thing to point out, the Sim Card Tray ships seperate so anyone thinking of a colour transplant will need to add that to the list.
Showed off my repaired One today, my workmates who are all in IT were mighty impressed, thought I had no chance of getting it done after looking at the tear down on iFixit
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
thanks for the writing.
I was hoping to take apart the top and bottom speaker grill so I can close the gap.
How are they put together? Is it as simple as adhesive tape? or screwed?
dsan45 said:
thanks for the writing.
I was hoping to take apart the top and bottom speaker grill so I can close the gap.
How are they put together? Is it as simple as adhesive tape? or screwed?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Good Question, the answer is a definite no.
With a serious amount of heating the adhesive will yield, however, the top grill is also used as a mounting point for one of the screws. I would also be concerned that the amount of heat needed to break the bond would get to damaging levels for some components such as the speakers which sit underneath.
They SERIOUSLY made this phone as lowest self service as possible. The pics from my old grill's show this.
I would also think you would need something more serious than adhesive tape to bond to the plastic.
View attachment 2159676
dsan45 said:
thanks for the writing.
I was hoping to take apart the top and bottom speaker grill so I can close the gap.
How are they put together? Is it as simple as adhesive tape? or screwed?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thinking about your question a bit more, if you are trying to close a gap by taking a component off and reattaching then I think you would be doomed to fail.
Without knowing where the gap is I'll assume it is in one of two spots, either between the rear housing and the grill or the screen and the grill. If this is the case then i'll try to explain what is occurring, a likely cause and why fixing is unlikely to work.
The design of the One M7 is basically a front assembly which is a chassis that the components screw on to. The back of the case is simply a shell that clips in to place.
If the gap is like this:
View attachment 2160617
It is a gap between the chassis and the back of the device. With the chassis being between the rear case and the grill all you would be doing is reattaching the grill to the chassis and not closing the gap and would almost certainly make the gap bigger not smaller as you would be adding more substance between the grill and the chassis/midframe
If the gap is like this:
View attachment 2160618
Then this is more likely to be the screen being pushed up from within the device itself. A likely cause is the battery sitting underneath is out by a mm or less and is pushing the screen up. The battery sits underneath the screen and there is literally no margin whatsoever between the screen, battery, motherboard and midframe so if something is out by a few μm to mm then the path of least resistance is for the screen to push up.
I know this from having completed not just a tear down but also a reassembly how fine the margins are. After my repair there is a very small gap in the screen and bottom grill which I just have to live with. Overall with a new case and a repaired screen I am much better off but it is not quite as good as something from plant. The repair process requires removing tape and disrupting some of the foil and all this increases the margins ever so slightly
I think HTC may have got themselves in to trouble with the marketing of this as Zero gap, it is pretty damn good, but Zero Gap means that a consumer will tolerate nothing less than Zero gap and thus we have an expectation problem. I have a lot of respect for what HTC have done with this device and still think it is a magnificent device but perhaps it is a bit too ambitious and the yields are killing them.
One final comment, a number of people have stated that their "Cracked Screen" was replaced with a new device. I personally believe it is nigh on impossible to remove the screen without some form of damage to the back of the case. The amount of pressure required to separate the front assembly loose would mark it with the amount of adhesive between the two plus the lack of margins mean that the repair is effectively what I did (i.e. a new front and rear assembly with a contents transfer)
Knowing what I know now, if I were to severely scratch or damage the grills I wouldn't entertain replacing them, it will only make the matter worse. I also know I could possibly open mine up and remove the internal pressure that is the likely cause of the gaps but again would risk making it worse for a small aesthetic gain.
I saw this thread on whirlpool as well, but the images here really give us a better look at the work you did. I also looked over the iFixit tear down and I have to say what an amazing job! You really did well, definitely not for the faint hearted!
Does this now mean that we can send you our broken One's for a repair job?!?
bwhinnen said:
I saw this thread on whirlpool as well, but the images here really give us a better look at the work you did. I also looked over the iFixit tear down and I have to say what an amazing job! You really did well, definitely not for the faint hearted!
Does this now mean that we can send you our broken One's for a repair job?!?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
hehe not quitting my day job just yet.
Best not to break it in the first place. I've got the HTC cover on order!
Dredd73 said:
Thinking about your question a bit more, if you are trying to close a gap by taking a component off and reattaching then I think you would be doomed to fail.
Without knowing where the gap is I'll assume it is in one of two spots, either between the rear housing and the grill or the screen and the grill. If this is the case then i'll try to explain what is occurring, a likely cause and why fixing is unlikely to work.
The design of the One M7 is basically a front assembly which is a chassis that the components screw on to. The back of the case is simply a shell that clips in to place.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
wow thank you for your thoughtful answer.
It sounds like you are in this business!
My gap is the first example you posted where their is a slight opening at the top. It seems like more I try to do 'anything' it is
most likely that I will ruin this device.
I tried fitting in my double sided tape inside the gap but really.. it woudnt get in there. So I guess it is best where it is now.
dsan45 said:
wow thank you for your thoughtful answer.
It sounds like you are in this business!
My gap is the first example you posted where their is a slight opening at the top. It seems like more I try to do 'anything' it is
most likely that I will ruin this device.
I tried fitting in my double sided tape inside the gap but really.. it woudnt get in there. So I guess it is best where it is now.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
No problem, I hope it saved you the grief of making something minor worse. Even though my repair job has a slight gap it isn't noticeable in black compared to Silver/white which is unforgiving.
While I am no phone repairer, I've always liked taking things apart and trying to fix them. The HTC One is possibly one of the fiddliest things I have taken on. I guess I didn't take it on by choice, only by bad luck and a hard floor!
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?p=43334075
HTC One Teardown (Really not that bad)
Don't know if you have read this earlier thread from 7 July on HTC one dismantle process
Sent from my HTC One using xda app-developers app
oh wow, just in time... i have a cracked HTC One and my parts from e trade supply came only today.. ETS parts look very promising and came neatly packed .. very neatly and properly packed.. gonna do my playing with the phone tomorrow, wish me luck
@op, thanks for your post.. have not read it fully .. was so excited to see a DIY fix thread
---------- Post added at 12:20 AM ---------- Previous post was at 12:01 AM ----------
ok so i did do the same order as you, the front panel and the back case .. choose silver and have silver.. thanks for your writing.. its exciting, hopefully i will share my experience here soon.
pradeepvizz said:
oh wow, just in time... i have a cracked HTC One and my parts from e trade supply came only today.. ETS parts look very promising and came neatly packed .. very neatly and properly packed.. gonna do my playing with the phone tomorrow, wish me luck
@op, thanks for your post.. have not read it fully .. was so excited to see a DIY fix thread
---------- Post added at 12:20 AM ---------- Previous post was at 12:01 AM ----------
ok so i did do the same order as you, the front panel and the back case .. choose silver and have silver.. thanks for your writing.. its exciting, hopefully i will share my experience here soon.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Best of luck. The parts from etrade supply seem to be OEM, the items marked as b-stock are seconds by the looks of things (probably screens with dead pixels etc)
If you go through it methodically you should be OK, make sure you have all the right tools such as screwdrivers, prying tools etc.
I would also perhaps recommend trimming the plastic cover on the battery, this seems to unstick and I think cause some bulging my .5mm when you reassemble. It is a bit like trying to re-wrap a present after you have unwrapped the paper, you can do it but it is never a perfect fit.
Thanks for the refit instructions, this is probably the first tread which talks about fitting it back. I got the A Stock items, did not choose the b stock. I went through the video and blog of ets and ordered every tool that they used in it
Sent from my HTC One using XDA Premium HD app
---------- Post added at 01:33 AM ---------- Previous post was at 01:30 AM ----------
And my phone already had the bulging of the screen little in the front.. I mean the top speaker and screen were not flay, Which probably was also a reason why it broke easy.
Sent from my HTC One using XDA Premium HD app
pradeepvizz said:
Thanks for the refit instructions, this is probably the first tread which talks about fitting it back. I got the A Stock items, did not choose the b stock. I went through the video and blog of ets and ordered every tool that they used in it
Sent from my HTC One using XDA Premium HD app
---------- Post added at 01:33 AM ---------- Previous post was at 01:30 AM ----------
And my phone already had the bulging of the screen little in the front.. I mean the top speaker and screen were not flay, Which probably was also a reason why it broke easy.
Sent from my HTC One using XDA Premium HD app
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Cool, one last thing, make sure you have some good tweezers that are flat and not sharp. There is a ribbon which I think can only go in with tweezers and requires a bit of pressure to go in. You will also need them to assist re-attaching your antennas.
i have not opened my tweezers from ETS yet! thanks for the note.
Dredd73 said:
Good Question, the answer is a definite no.
With a serious amount of heating the adhesive will yield, however, the top grill is also used as a mounting point for one of the screws. I would also be concerned that the amount of heat needed to break the bond would get to damaging levels for some components such as the speakers which sit underneath.
They SERIOUSLY made this phone as lowest self service as possible. The pics from my old grill's show this.
I would also think you would need something more serious than adhesive tape to bond to the plastic.
View attachment 2159676
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
But could you just place a little glue at the gap and squeeze it shut, instead of taking out the whole grill and reapplying?
fluxthesky said:
But could you just place a little glue at the gap and squeeze it shut, instead of taking out the whole grill and reapplying?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Perhaps these pictures may help, the grills do not attach to the rear housing, they attach to the midplane of the phone so the only way to close the gap is between the rear shell/housing and the midplane.
Trying to glue the midplane tighter to the rear housing is not something that I think would work nor would I recommend it. The types of glue required would potentially damage components that sit close to the edges and would cause complications if there was a screen crack later down the track. There is also potential if the wrong glue is used to damage the plastic housing. As you can see, if you were trying to close the top gap with glue there is the camera, speaker, light sensor and power switch which are all very close to the edges and would not benefit from a strong solvent based glue
View attachment 2170276
As commented in a previous post, the upward pressure is going to be where components meet the rear of the case, I've tried to highlight this in this picture. Any attempt to close the gap will be due to trying to flex/bend the edge to glue/adhere to the edge. A contact adhesive or tape will simply not win in the long term and a solvent based glue might stand a chance but the amount required risks gluing components. I'd rather have a small gap than damage something like the power switch.
If someone wants to give it a try, feel free to post results, but having gone through a re-build I wouldn't do it if I were faced with a small gap knowing what I know.
paul_59 said:
forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?p=43334075
HTC One Teardown (Really not that bad)
Don't know if you have read this earlier thread from 7 July on HTC one dismantle process
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes, I don't think there was a post on any forum anywhere on the subject that I hadn't read prior to my dismantle.
I guess the big difference between my post and this post is my post is about creating a repaired working phone as opposed to a tear down which is treated as a one way ticket.
I did entertain heavy duty heating, however, since I as not saving the case I opted to spare my components any unnecessary heat stress. Also most tear down's seem to put a lot of flex on the mainboard which is also something I wanted to avoid.
To my knowledge I don't think I have seen anyone else post an actual repair, just a tear down.
ok so my phone is now in a busted state!
i opened the front & the back fine, took quite an effort to pry up and separate the front and the back case, i took it out without any breakage. I started with the bottom speaker grill, heated & took of the bottom speaker grill and then pry'ed in the gap between back case & the front panel. The hard part was the move the separator from the bottom to the sides, in other words, starting to separate the side was hard, once a gap is created on the sides it was pretty easy to take the phone out by moving the separator around the phone.
one mistake i did was to not take out the sim card & sim card tray before starting to separate.
I then started with removing the components from the motherboard - i wanted to do a front panel replacement (essential screen replacement).
when removing the LCD connector cable, i broke the lock/connector which is on the motherboard. i was trying to release the lock to take out the connector and pressed hard on the connector itself rather than the lock - attaching a pic to make it clear - i broke the black part marked red, the lock was supposed to be removed by pulling up the part marked green.
I have assembled back everything with the new front housing and phone is semi partially working - i have almost removed and reconnected everything 4 times.
The vibrator kicks in action when i put the phone on but nothing on the display(broken display port to blame). One time i heard the phone boot (speaker sound) and that was when i tried to put it back in my old front panel to check.
Other than that the phone is identified as HTC Android USB phone in the device manager when connected but does not show on my computer as a portable device. It charges. heats when i try to put it on.
So to conclude the phone is dead now, don't have much of ideas to get it back working - but have a hope that it would if i replace quite some parts
Any advise is welcome!
pradeepvizz said:
ok so my phone is now in a busted state!
i opened the front & the back fine, took quite an effort to pry up and separate the front and the back case, i took it out without any breakage. I started with the bottom speaker grill, heated & took of the bottom speaker grill and then pry'ed in the gap between back case & the front panel. The hard part was the move the separator from the bottom to the sides, in other words, starting to separate the side was hard, once a gap is created on the sides it was pretty easy to take the phone out by moving the separator around the phone.
one mistake i did was to not take out the sim card & sim card tray before starting to separate.
I then started with removing the components from the motherboard - i wanted to do a front panel replacement (essential screen replacement).
when removing the LCD connector cable, i broke the lock/connector which is on the motherboard. i was trying to release the lock to take out the connector and pressed hard on the connector itself rather than the lock - attaching a pic to make it clear - i broke the black part marked red, the lock was supposed to be removed by pulling up the part marked green.
I have assembled back everything with the new front housing and phone is semi partially working - i have almost removed and reconnected everything 4 times.
The vibrator kicks in action when i put the phone on but nothing on the display(broken display port to blame). One time i heard the phone boot (speaker sound) and that was when i tried to put it back in my old front panel to check.
Other than that the phone is identified as HTC Android USB phone in the device manager when connected but does not show on my computer as a portable device. It charges. heats when i try to put it on.
So to conclude the phone is dead now, don't have much of ideas to get it back working - but have a hope that it would if i replace quite some parts
Any advise is welcome!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Bad Luck, to get so close.....
The ribbon you are referring to simply pulls out and doesn't have the same clasp, this is the one that is also the hardest to re-insert. Have you got a good picture of what your the socket now? you should be able to push it in unless it is completely smashed.
When I was doing mine I just pulled the ribbons out without realising some are meant to lift open. To me if you are getting to boot and device recognition you got most of the way there.
The mainboard is about the only item that is non replaceable via OEM. I can only assume it is things like IMEI etc that would stop this. My only suggestion is to keep an eye out for someone selling a broken M7 and see if you can swap mainboards.
Is the screen on your Google Nexus 7 (2nd Generation) cracked or broken? You can repair the screen or other internal parts and components with this in depth repair guide. The guide will take you through each crucial step that will be essential in effectively performing a successful and safe opening of your device and repair nearly any desired part.
This guide will aid your installation of the following Google Nexus 7 (2nd Generation) parts:
Google Nexus 7 (2nd Generation) Touch Screen Digitizer Replacement
Google Nexus 7 (2nd Generation) LCD Screen Replacement
Google Nexus 7 (2nd Generation) LCD + Touch Screen Digitizer Replacement
Essential Tools:
Safe Pry Opening Tool
Small Phillips Screwdriver (#00)
Heat Gun/Hair Dryer
Google Nexus 7 (2nd Generation) Tear Down Guide:
In order to get started with the repair you will first need to completely power down your device.
After the device is powered down you can start separating the unit's back cover from the screen assembly and also the motherboard.
Due to the fact the two are sealed together very firmly on this model, it may be very advantageous to begin with a small knife to release the first clips.
Normally if you start on the side of the device you will find it to be the easiest route. Next step use your pry tool to wedge between the seams around the sides and corners of the device until the back cover detaches from the tablet. Also be sure not to pry near the USB port located on the base.
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After you have removed the back cover from the tablet, simply use your pry tool to release the battery connector which is found on the top right side of your device. This is done to be certain that the device is totally powered down.
Next you will use a Small Phillips screwdriver to unscrew the four (4) Small Phillips screws which are depicted in red in the figure below.
Also depicted below in the figure are the remaining flex cable connections which are colored green. Use your pry tool to release the flex cable connections. It is important to use caution and remove the connections while avoiding tearing any of the cables.
Once the flex cables are released, you will be able to carefully take out the battery and the housing it is located in.
Now that the cables have been released you will be able to detach the five (5) connections colored in green below using your pry tool, as well as extract all the screws (seventeen of them) from both the top and bottom motherboard components using your Small Phillips screwdriver.
Something to be aware of is the fact that the Small Phillips screws are unequal in size so it will be very important to keep them separated to ensure that the screws are later placed in the correct spots.
After you have removed the screws, you will then use your pry tool to take out the bottom motherboard component (Figure 3.1 ), along with the loud speaker underneath the motherboard (Figure 3.2).
You will find another connector under the loud speaker and using the pry tool can release it. Holding this part down is adhesive tape which needs to be cautiously removed (Figure 3.3) and this will make it possible to pull out the long orange flex cable.
Then using your pry tool carefully take out the top motherboard component. It is important to be certain all connections have been released from this piece to ensure that none of the flex cables release while you remove the motherboard.
Following the removal of the top motherboard component, you will then be able to remove the top speaker underneath it, which is displayed in Figure 3.5.
The last part you will need to extract from the housing is the button flex cable found on the left side. Using your pry tool, lightly press against this cable in order to release the cable that is bound to the housing with adhesive (Figure 3.6). After this piece is removed it will be possible to begin taking the glass touch screen off of the the housing.
Prior to taking off the screen, you will need to use a heat gun (on low) or a hair dryer to heat up the sides and corners of the device for approximately 40 seconds to 1 minute, this will make sure the tablet is not excessively heated. Once the device is heated up the adhesive that holds the screen together will noticeably loosen.
Next, after the sides and corners have been heated up, use your pry tool to shim in between the housing and the screen assembly, and be sure to run the tool around the sides of the entire device.
Finally, substitute in the new parts while discarding damaged parts and simply reverse these steps in order to reassemble your device back together.
RepairsUniverse's Repair Guides are for informational and learning purposes only. Perform this repair at your own risk.
Cool guide! This will be useful not only for general repairs, but also for those of us who want to do hard-mods.
Now I just have to buy one. The end of the month can't come fast enough...
Taking the back cover off looks to be a pain and almost impossible without doing damage. They are very well built.
Sent from my Nexus 7 using xda premium
This guide is excellent.
Well, it happened. Screen broke just by setting it down face-up on the pavement. These devices are incredibly fragile.
Is there any retailer that currently sells the replacement glass/digitizer? I am not thrilled to pay more than I paid for the device to have it repaired ($208!)
kgraves22 said:
Well, it happened. Screen broke just by setting it down face-up on the pavement. These devices are incredibly fragile.
Is there any retailer that currently sells the replacement glass/digitizer? I am not thrilled to pay more than I paid for the device to have it repaired ($208!)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
We're expecting to receive parts for this device. Check back with us soon.
Orange cable
Hey this is sweet! In figure 3.3 I am curious to know what that flex cable is for. Thanks.
repairsuniverse said:
We're expecting to receive parts for this device. Check back with us soon.
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Awesome. Is there any possibility you can give me a rough estimate for the part and for full repair? I am subscribing to this thread so I will be looking for your reply when the parts become available. Thank you very much.
By the way, if you ever need information on parts, flashing, or programming for Cricket Communications, I am your man!
Thank you so very much, I've had this device for 10 days and I'm pretty much devastated.
kgraves22 said:
Awesome. Is there any possibility you can give me a rough estimate for the part and for full repair? I am subscribing to this thread so I will be looking for your reply when the parts become available. Thank you very much.
By the way, if you ever need information on parts, flashing, or programming for Cricket Communications, I am your man!
Thank you so very much, I've had this device for 10 days and I'm pretty much devastated.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'll have a better idea when we get the parts in. I'll try and keep you updated or you can visit my website from the link in my signature.
repairsuniverse said:
I'll have a better idea when we get the parts in. I'll try and keep you updated or you can visit my website from the link in my signature.
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Did you ever get parts? I need to order a new screen and digitizer for 2nd gen nexus 7.
Thanks
combres said:
Did you ever get parts? I need to order a new screen and digitizer for 2nd gen nexus 7.
Thanks
Click to expand...
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We're still waiting... We have had alot of customers asking the same question.
Does the back cover feel more loose if you snap it back on after taking it off? Or is it still solid?
I need a digitizer only not sure how difficult that is to fix though....
That screen + lcd replacement cost more than what the actual N7 cost at any store. wow
gypsy214 said:
That screen + lcd replacement cost more than what the actual N7 cost at any store. wow
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Yeah that price is horrible
keilflex said:
Yeah that price is horrible
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I found this place called xcubicle that replaces the screen and lcd undearneath for 189.00 better price than going to pay 350 for a new one.Also go on etradersupply they sell the screen for cheaper
How adventagious is it to put a tiny plate of copper on where the CPU is? Im not sure how much room there is but my CPU tends to get in the 70c range when browsing at 1.9ghz. I feel like there's be reason to add a chunk of copper to attempt to reduce temps for a little bit before it starts to throttle...
Same here!
kgraves22 said:
Well, it happened. Screen broke just by setting it down face-up on the pavement. These devices are incredibly fragile.
Is there any retailer that currently sells the replacement glass/digitizer? I am not thrilled to pay more than I paid for the device to have it repaired ($208!)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Did you find any seller? I also got my nexus's screen cracked and looked for replacement some site even said 600$ come on who is going to pay that much for screen ... the cheapest i got was 208 $ so even that is high for a device this cheap... so if you or anyone got some idea where and how to get replacement glass/digitizer that will be great help. (LCD is just working fine so why to buy lcd but all of them include lcd which i think makes it expensive. )
Buy a new tablet.
Keep the broken one for a year, spare part will be cheaper.
sk8trix said:
I need a digitizer only not sure how difficult that is to fix though....
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You can go to our site and find the piece your looking for as well as get a free pry tool for the job. We also have a tutorial video you can follow to help you in fixing your phone and have "live chat" support so you can easily get help if needed. But on newer phones we don't recommend getting just the digitizer as it can be a little more difficult to separate from the LCD, and to prevent further issues or complications, it may be worth your time and money to get the combination LCD and Digitizer.