I'm working on an advanced dockstation that's almost completed.
Problem is that I want to use the deskdockmode and I'm not sure if the 365K resistor (as with i9000) would work on the Note.
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=820275
Is it still deskdockmode or something like "deskclockmode"?
My meter doesn't work so I can't measure the resistor inside the genuine samsung dockstation which I will asap when my new meter arrives.
Apparently there is a PCB board in the genuine samsung dock (EU model).
Mixture of both resistors and capacitors.
Will look further into it later.
KurdX said:
Apparently there is a PCB board in the genuine samsung dock (EU model).
Mixture of both resistors and capacitors.
Will look further into it later.
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I am interested in this too. Please update with what you find. Would be curious to know what is Cardock resistance as well.
david
Related
Does anyone sell a long MicroUSB adapter kit for DIY docking stations?
Something that can be assembled onto a fiberglass or wood dock.
As in, a connector that doesn't have the molded end with cable already attached.
But wht exacty u need? Micro/mini usb cable? Usb male/female pin/plug? Give some mor details.
HD2 HYPERDROID EXTREME EDITION V6.0.1 @ FIKERT KERNAL.
Most micro USB connectors come apart pretty easily.
There are usually 3 tack solder contacts on one side and 2 on the other.
Get yourself a few $3 cables and a razor blade to try out.
You can strip the shells off, route a hole in your stand and insert it.
I think by "long" microUSB he mean really those longer ones, with ~16 additional pins, like one we can find in Nook Tablet.
Rebellos said:
I think by "long" microUSB he mean really those longer ones, with ~16 additional pins, like one we can find in Nook Tablet.
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I disagree, he wants to make his own dock, and needs something a bit longer that will be easier to mount. I have thought about the same thing myself
I think one of these below should do the trick, as they can be taken apart, but obviously, you'll have to do your own soldering. It's a bit tricky, even with a 0.5mm pencil tip iron.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/8pin-micr..._MobilePhoneDataCables_JN&hash=item43afbf91cb
Good luck!
you might want to check out parts sites. I did a quick search on mouser.com for micro usb and under interconnects i selected "USB connectors" you can see a picture of most of the options and even go with micro 3.0 if its better for you
Whoops, I forgot about this thread.
Thanks for all the great suggestions so far!
Yeah, I want the longer USB. Because right now, I have an OEM Samsung car dock that I use.
But when I have my phone in a TPU case, the USB isn't long enough anymore to properly insert all the way into the phone. Because the TPU case puts the phone about 1/4" further from the USB.
I like the idea of stipping a three dollar USB cable.
I think this will be a long term project that I'll work on here and there.
Looking into this myself but for a different reason. I can't find what I want but I did order two of these and I reckon they will work perfectly for you.
http://ie.farnell.com/hrs-hirose/zx80-b-5s/micro-usb-type-b-plug/dp/1719110?Ntt=171-9110
I think that's also Newark in the US. Probably the same part number there. There is at least an extra 5mm there to get you past the TPU case.
Look at page 3, step 20
http://www.ifixit.com/Teardown/Nexus-7-Teardown/9623/3
You can see, that the display casing or the display itself is somehow connected to the 4 pin holes that lead to the outside of the case.
Are those pins for display testing? Or is this done already at display supplier?
What could those pins be for?
Polarfuchs said:
Look at page 3, step 20
http://www.ifixit.com/Teardown/Nexus-7-Teardown/9623/3
You can see, that the display casing or the display itself is somehow connected to the 4 pin holes that lead to the outside of the case.
Are those pins for display testing? Or is this done already at display supplier?
What could those pins be for?
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those are pogo pins. They are used for connecting peripherals like a dock.
there is already a thread for this http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=1737337
Thx, I didn't think of them to be pogo pins. And I don't know why, even though my HTC oneX has them, lol.
1. I looked at ifixit internal images for the Apple TV and noticed that the board has test points, figured there may be a chance to JTAG it.
2. I wanted to check if Apple is using JTAG or SWD (serial wire debug) as ARM supports both. A quick search on jobs.apple.com reveals that Apple only uses JTAG/ICE and not Serial Wire Debug (no mention of it in the job descriptions). They talk about board level OS testing, so they do final testing in house after the board is fully manufactured. It seems they use cadence concept/allegro
3. I picked up ATV3 at Fry's this this morning and opened it, I did find space for two connectors
4. A 10 pin connector looks like ARM 10-PIN JTAG connector - (Mfgr: Don Connex P/N: C42 or Samtec P/N: SHF-105-01-L-D-TH). hxxp://xxx.samtec.com/ftppub/pdf/FTSH_SMT.PDF See attached picture: ATV3_J5101.jpg
5. A 30 pin FFC FPC ribbon cable connector. See attached picture: ATV3_J7301.jpg
I haven't traced the pins yet, but one them has to have JTAG. I will post my findings, but wanted to see if xda developers is the right forum or is there another place?
Another interest is that A5 is also in iphone 5. As the software bugs are patched, we may have only left with hardware hack to jailbreak. Hoping we can load a patched boot loader. Plus I am kinda old school developer hint: dms3/HU/S00/powersync
nice ur idea , is it apple will left their chip Jtag points opened ? get schematic and check if jtag is opened ..
early devices iDevices are all jtag closed like there :
Schematics? It's gonna be super hard to find those for the new devices
The difference between apple tv and iphone/ipod is that apple tv has PCB pads for actual connectors, the others only have test pads for board verification in the factory.
Based on my experience the solder pad lay out is a standard 30pin FPC.
Another thought is that the J7301 the 30pin connector could also be the standard IPOD connector as I have seen 30pin (single row ) connectors - but most of them have thru hole solder mounts. Anyone care to comment?
rgdeja said:
Schematics? It's gonna be super hard to find those for the new devices
The difference between apple tv and iphone/ipod is that apple tv has PCB pads for actual connectors, the others only have test pads for board verification in the factory.
Based on my experience the solder pad lay out is a standard 30pin FPC.
Another thought is that the J7301 the 30pin connector could also be the standard IPOD connector as I have seen 30pin (single row ) connectors - but most of them have thru hole solder mounts. Anyone care to comment?
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On the J7301 connector why dont you compare the pinouts to see if the gnd matches up to the board one,
darkspr1te
darkspr1te said:
On the J7301 connector why dont you compare the pinouts to see if the gnd matches up to the board one,
darkspr1te
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Already did, they dont match at all.
Booloader Discussion - Comments requested
Does any one know if Apple actually Rom Masked the bootrom on silicon of A5/A6 or just the keys and or key hash?
Based on my experience, some (usually dumb and to save on cost) chipset vendors will have an 'i2c like back door' and then load the ROM instead of actually MASKing it during fab. After the wafer is tested and passed verification, 'ROM MASK' is loaded then wafer is sent for packaging, If the left hand doesn't talk to the right hand, then these 'back door pads' on the wafer are wire bonded and the data sheet reflects as "reserved or test" PINs.
Also, the silicon is very expensive to have full ROM or public key to be masked in silicon.
Has anyone 'de-capped' an A5/A6 to find out unused pads on the silicon wafer?
I wanted to share my QI wireless charging project, I had a small turn/twist while doing it.....
I am using a BLUBOON (Make sure it's TYPE B and not TYPE A, found it to be the best one out there, but more expensive $20ish) and an LG G3 NFC + QI but the QI part does not work, it must be some special kind of charging coil? Anyhow, I just cut off the center and contacts from the QI section of the LG G3 sticker also put a piece of cardboard behind the contacts so they would actually reach the pins and on the BLUBOON I cut off the microUSB plug and soldered the + and the - to the USB port. Nicer and cleaner solution than what I had in mind (soldering the 2 pins of the LG G3 QI to cables and running them down to the USB port, making the back undetachable...)
Here is my original post on the OnePlus forum:
Code:
https://forums.oneplus.net/threads/soldering-in-an-inductive-charging-coil-internally.57772/page-6#post-9003493
So can you use the wireless charging or not? But does look nice anyhow!
jusatin said:
So can you use the wireless charging or not? But does look nice anyhow!
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LOLZ! Isn't it that the idea? Confused... J/K! Yes, it works.
Here is a pic, I guess I forgot to post one .... Honest mistake!
You should post your results in the wireless charging thread i'm sure they would love to see your setup
Cholerabob said:
You should post your results in the wireless charging thread i'm sure they would love to see your setup
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Feel free to post a link to the thread in the wireless charging thread.
Hi m4f1050,
LG G3 only has the antennas on the sticker, the NFC board is inside the phone (as usual) and also the Qi board (usually in the sticker for other brands such as Samsung !). That's why it didn't worked.
Take a look at mburris mod : http://forum.xda-developers.com/showpost.php?p=57765939&postcount=235
I think it's rather easier that way
Anyway, good job and thanks for sharing !
LoganMcClay said:
Hi m4f1050,
LG G3 only has the antennas on the sticker, the NFC board is inside the phone (as usual) and also the Qi board (usually in the sticker for other brands such as Samsung !). That's why it didn't worked.
Take a look at mburris mod : http://forum.xda-developers.com/showpost.php?p=57765939&postcount=235
I think it's rather easier that way
Anyway, good job and thanks for sharing !
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8 soldering points vs 2 soldering points ... IDK if it's "easier" but hey, 2 options! I also get +400 mA with my setup. At 25% it said it would take 6 hrs to fully charge..which is half of what a 2.1 amp wall charger (3 hrs to fully charge on 25% batt) Tested both ways.
EDIT: Here is a quick snapshot of my charge mA's (I've seen 400+ but today at work I only got up to +375 maybe it's the wall charger vs the one at home....)
Here is my OPO on my home charger. Its a Trident single dock. Ordered the dual dock for home and took the single one to work.
IMHO the Chinese docks (black or white with the wireless symbol in center and a red on and blue charging lights) aren't as great...
BTW I downgraded back to 4.4.4 since 5.0.2 was draining the phone more in idle.
damn.. i cant solder worth SH!T.. so this wont help me.. lol
gd6noob said:
damn.. i cant solder worth SH!T.. so this wont help me.. lol
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I did the soldering because I wanted the USB available, but you can get the generic charger that plugs into the USB port then you put the lid over.
It's how I first started with QI on my OPO. Just make sure you get --TYPE B-- instead of --TYPE A--
Type A: narrow end of micro USB upward.
Type B: narrow end of micro USB downward (what we have on our OPO's)
m4f1050 said:
I did the soldering because I wanted the USB available, but you can get the generic charger that plugs into the USB port then you put the lid over.
It's how I first started with QI on my OPO. Just make sure you get --TYPE B-- instead of --TYPE A--
Type A: narrow end of micro USB upward.
Type B: narrow end of micro USB downward (what we have on our OPO's)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
so this cover the usb port?
gd6noob said:
so this cover the usb port?
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Check pics. I cut off the USB plug and soldered it. But originally it was a BLUBOON generic QI charger (type b)
If you are soldering you can use TYPE A but you have to inverse + and - before soldering to the charging port.
EDIT: Attachment shows QI charging from 77% to 100% in an hour and a half. Almost 25% in 1.5 hrs. So around 6~7 hrs from 0% to 100%
Hi Folks,
A friend gave me an unbranded MHL plug because it didn't work for him and he went out and got the Samsung authentic product which worked fine. Didn't take long to figure out the connector on the el-cheapo was of the 5 pin variety, it needed 11 pin - so I ordered a 11-to-5pin adapter for it and it also works fine - at least on his device - my friend's S4 model is 9505 (Apr 2013) and my S4 is 9507 (Nov 2013) - mine will not accept the 11-pin microUSB cable - it seems to have some physical depth issue so the the cable never actually connects - I can't make out any difference visually between the two and I can't see any differences in the specs yet there is a difference on how deep the 11pin connector goes in .
I thought it may have some obstruction like a lint buildup (pocket or bellybutton) but I have also tried this on a colleagues S4 which is also a 9505 and it works fine. I'm looking for someone else with a 9507 to try this out on but I'm quickly running out of resources so I figured I'd just get online and ask the pros.
Anyone experienced this problem of fitting an 11pin microUSB in their S4 device?
Thanks
*** SOLVED *** I found someone in the office who had the same model i9507 and the 11pin microUSB connector fitted albeit needing a fair bit of force and coaxing - it snapped into place. So we took photos of the ports using each others cameras and blew them up, didn't look much different except mine looked as if it was rusted if anything. I used a pin-board pin around the metal tab in the port and it yielded a bit of gunk and eventually a fair bit came loose from the underside (the narrow side) and that it seems was to inhibit the deeper 11pin connector path.
As many do, I carry my phone around in my pocket and undoubtedly the lint collection over the years is the source of the gunk. For the small amount of fluff that did come out of the port I'd estimate the obstruction was < 1mm - but enough to stop the connector's tabs from engaging - gives a fair indication of how little margin there is for this 11pin connector in the port.
Cheers