[Q] What are those pins on the side for? - Nexus 7 Q&A, Help & Troubleshooting

Look at page 3, step 20
http://www.ifixit.com/Teardown/Nexus-7-Teardown/9623/3
You can see, that the display casing or the display itself is somehow connected to the 4 pin holes that lead to the outside of the case.
Are those pins for display testing? Or is this done already at display supplier?
What could those pins be for?

Polarfuchs said:
Look at page 3, step 20
http://www.ifixit.com/Teardown/Nexus-7-Teardown/9623/3
You can see, that the display casing or the display itself is somehow connected to the 4 pin holes that lead to the outside of the case.
Are those pins for display testing? Or is this done already at display supplier?
What could those pins be for?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
those are pogo pins. They are used for connecting peripherals like a dock.

there is already a thread for this http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=1737337

Thx, I didn't think of them to be pogo pins. And I don't know why, even though my HTC oneX has them, lol.

Related

Galaxy Note Inductive Charging Mod

I modified my Galaxy Note to use inductive charging via a palm touchstone / patch.
Just a quick note. Not a whole lot to contribute here, because I largely followed the examples of the Qian Qi. That guy is awesome.
I don't think I voided a warranty, either. Only minimal teardown required (black plastic back, then the speaker section). Never came across a sticker I had to remove....
Useful links:
galaxy s inductive charging mod
evo 4g induction charging mod
galaxy note teardown video
galaxy note teardown pics
Notes:
- Buy a good soldering iron. Weller WESD51, set to 610 deg F, with 1/32" long conical tip, with lots of flux and lots of flux remover are the only reason I could do this. I can't stress enough the value of having good temperature control, knowledge of temperature, and so forth. I stumbled around with an "ordinary" soldering iron for a long time, and in hindsite, I can't believe I did so.
- Do not choke on the price. I already had a lot of soldering gear, and I bought $220 more. Spend the money. It's worth it.
- Watch the curious inventor youtube videos on soldering. This guy. Watch everything, several times. http://store.curiousinventor.com/
- You want 30 gauge wire. It's the only thing that just barely can be crammed in. I used the "Kynar" coated type. Buy at least 2 colors.
- as you look at the phone disassembled, with speaker on the bottom left, the +5 pin on the micro usb (MHL) port is the leftmost. I attached a wire to that, and a ground wire to the housing where the port was soldered.
- routed the wires under the speaker, then back, then into a VERY slight indentation into the battery compartment. used a blue "safe open" tool to help shape the wire / crimp ends. Once in the battery compartment, you're golden. Attach the inductive charging coil to the back of the samsung plastic back, add solder to the pads, and attach the wires.
- Attached is a picture with roughly how I routed wires. Red is +5V, Blue is ground. Be sure and double check if my recollection is right where the indentation is into the battery compartment. (that part is by memory).
- dont leave too much slack. it's really hard to get the samsung black pastic panel back on. Mine very slightly bulges.
- be careful where you put the charging sticky patch, because this phone is a little bit bigger than a palm pre. You have to consider if the phone can sit on the charger and "lock in" with the magnets. If you place it too high, it actually can't (in portrait)!
- Qian Qi had a really interesting point: most articles about how Li-ion batteries behave are wrong, and fully discharging the battery drastically reduces the number of cycles you have. So this is actually a very useful mod--whenever you don't use the phone, toss it on the charger.
Thanks for summing it up! Was actually thinking of doing this mod myself. Question: do you have a protective case on your Note? If so - what kind and how badly does it affect the magnetic properties?
No case. Especially because the note is so big, I think it would be unmanageable.
I took the samsung thin plastic back, and placed the Palm PRE (with charging coil still attached) on top of it, on the touchstone -- to figure out proper placement & mark with a pencil. I noticed a buzzing sound, coming from (I think) the induction coil on the palm pre back itself. I suspect if you use a case, this wont work well.
Also, the size/weight/placement of the galaxy note are such that the magnets are just barely strong enough to hold it. One time my phone was near, but off, the charger. I'm not sure if vibration from the phone did that, or my kids
In summary, I'm not sure how well it would work with a case. You might be able to research this on the net; among the 15 or 20 people that have bought a Pre, you might be able to find some info about the effect of a case on inductive charging.
tight squeeze?
im wanting to try this mod i have my touchstone on the way not thank you amazon but it seems like to me that the pad from the pre wouldnt fit under the cover of our phablet =/ could you post pics of the finished product and i think this is the only instance that i have seen someone attempt this with the note and i want to try it i love my note but would love it even more with inductive charging.
I am not the original author but I performed a different Touchstone mod and posted pics here:
http://forums.androidcentral.com/sa...1-galaxy-note-touchstone-mod-photo-heavy.html
Hope it helps!
-darren
Sent from my GT-N7000 using Tapatalk 2
Thank you!!!
Thank you so much for your post I have my materials on the way but I hadn't seen a detailed guide for the note other than this one and was worried I would have to solder directly to the usb pins which looked scary lol I did have two questions though would your mod work the same way for the at&t note? Specifically the points where you soldered to the phone and can wireless charging be performed through a case?
Hey, OP here. You may want to hold off just a bit. Mine is exhibiting some issues now. As in, it says "charging" but it doesn't do so wirelessly. The phone will stay "charging" but the battery % never goes up. (It was slow before, but would charge fully over a night).
Charging via USB still works.
It may be something simple; I'm not sure. But I need to crack it open and take a peek, and I haven't had time to do that yet because my phone is functional at the moment.
If nothing has conspicuously changed, there may be something about the design that isn't sustainable. Or maybe my solder joint halfway broke, or one of the wires got smashed enough so that it's partially broken...
I'll write back with my findings. Bug me if I don't
Thanks for the notice I was about to pull the trigger lol tbh I probably shouldn't attempt this I've never done a mod like this before and I'm not exactly a surgeon with a soldering iron lolvthatvbeing being said I'm going to attempt this on an old evo 4g I have before I do surgery on my baby lol plus I'm already familiar with the guts of an evo from screen repairs ill report back with my results
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I717 using xda premium
Success it took some doing but I got it I haven't done the mod on my note yet but I did it on my evo last night and it works its rough I haven't cleaned it up yet but I'll post the pics I got this mod from www.goodandevo.net
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I717 using xda premium
Thank you for this post.
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I717 using Tapatalk
No prob I just wanted to see if i could do it and if I can do it with little soldering experience I'm sure most could do it I haven't done this mod to my galaxy note though as there is way less room in its a far more complicated mod than the evo because you have to make room for wires in a device samsung made as thin as possible and the way you have to route the wires I feel like the solder joints would just break
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I717 using xda app-developers app
For those who want to try this out but still have warrantee just buy a backcover, a micro usb plug and assemble it according to the directions here.If you need the note just take out the usb plug and the back cover and you're good to go.... Or leave it there.....
For those who don't know what pins to use on the usb plug:
Pin: 1 is 5V+ (red)
Pin: 5 is GND (black)
Works like a charm.......
becosemsaida
Cool mod! Does it affect the stylus operation though?
pboesboes said:
Cool mod! Does it affect the stylus operation though?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
yes it affects the stylus sometimes it reacts with delay and sometimes it clicks although only hovers over it
pboesboes said:
Cool mod! Does it affect the stylus operation though?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I was not a big stylus user; I can't stand the input lag. I didn't notice a difference, but I always considered the input speed unacceptable. Not sure why there would be any difference, anyway.
My big problem that I've never taken the time to address is that after some time, it's as though I can't pull enough current through the wires to charge. One day I need to crack this open & figure out why.
gr8 n interesting post
wonder how fast can a full charge be completed
regards
strategist99 said:
gr8 n interesting post
wonder how fast can a full charge be completed
regards
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It is slower than normal, but completed in a night. I still have not dismantled my phone to attempt to repair this, but I want to soon

Apple TV3 JTAG points

1. I looked at ifixit internal images for the Apple TV and noticed that the board has test points, figured there may be a chance to JTAG it.
2. I wanted to check if Apple is using JTAG or SWD (serial wire debug) as ARM supports both. A quick search on jobs.apple.com reveals that Apple only uses JTAG/ICE and not Serial Wire Debug (no mention of it in the job descriptions). They talk about board level OS testing, so they do final testing in house after the board is fully manufactured. It seems they use cadence concept/allegro
3. I picked up ATV3 at Fry's this this morning and opened it, I did find space for two connectors
4. A 10 pin connector looks like ARM 10-PIN JTAG connector - (Mfgr: Don Connex P/N: C42 or Samtec P/N: SHF-105-01-L-D-TH). hxxp://xxx.samtec.com/ftppub/pdf/FTSH_SMT.PDF See attached picture: ATV3_J5101.jpg
5. A 30 pin FFC FPC ribbon cable connector. See attached picture: ATV3_J7301.jpg
I haven't traced the pins yet, but one them has to have JTAG. I will post my findings, but wanted to see if xda developers is the right forum or is there another place?
Another interest is that A5 is also in iphone 5. As the software bugs are patched, we may have only left with hardware hack to jailbreak. Hoping we can load a patched boot loader. Plus I am kinda old school developer hint: dms3/HU/S00/powersync
nice ur idea , is it apple will left their chip Jtag points opened ? get schematic and check if jtag is opened ..
early devices iDevices are all jtag closed like there :
Schematics? It's gonna be super hard to find those for the new devices
The difference between apple tv and iphone/ipod is that apple tv has PCB pads for actual connectors, the others only have test pads for board verification in the factory.
Based on my experience the solder pad lay out is a standard 30pin FPC.
Another thought is that the J7301 the 30pin connector could also be the standard IPOD connector as I have seen 30pin (single row ) connectors - but most of them have thru hole solder mounts. Anyone care to comment?
rgdeja said:
Schematics? It's gonna be super hard to find those for the new devices
The difference between apple tv and iphone/ipod is that apple tv has PCB pads for actual connectors, the others only have test pads for board verification in the factory.
Based on my experience the solder pad lay out is a standard 30pin FPC.
Another thought is that the J7301 the 30pin connector could also be the standard IPOD connector as I have seen 30pin (single row ) connectors - but most of them have thru hole solder mounts. Anyone care to comment?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
On the J7301 connector why dont you compare the pinouts to see if the gnd matches up to the board one,
darkspr1te
darkspr1te said:
On the J7301 connector why dont you compare the pinouts to see if the gnd matches up to the board one,
darkspr1te
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Already did, they dont match at all.
Booloader Discussion - Comments requested
Does any one know if Apple actually Rom Masked the bootrom on silicon of A5/A6 or just the keys and or key hash?
Based on my experience, some (usually dumb and to save on cost) chipset vendors will have an 'i2c like back door' and then load the ROM instead of actually MASKing it during fab. After the wafer is tested and passed verification, 'ROM MASK' is loaded then wafer is sent for packaging, If the left hand doesn't talk to the right hand, then these 'back door pads' on the wafer are wire bonded and the data sheet reflects as "reserved or test" PINs.
Also, the silicon is very expensive to have full ROM or public key to be masked in silicon.
Has anyone 'de-capped' an A5/A6 to find out unused pads on the silicon wafer?

Possible internal wireless charging options

so did a teardown of a busted moto x i have to see if it is possible to insert a wireless charging coil in it and stumbled upon something interesting
there seems to be a connector that doesn't go to anything and is taped off. it hides under the moto x logo on the back. if i had to guess i'd say it's either A) for a charging coil, or B) for some type of button or fingerprint sensor they abandoned.
i'm leaning towards charging coil because the nexus 6 has wireless charging and is a similar design. if we could get someone with a nexus 6 to see if they have the same connector and see if it's attached to anything, we could possible get our hands on that part and insert it into our device. pics below.
i also located some possible points to solder on a coil, these points show 5 volts when connected to a charger.
This is interesting...
Can you trace where that connector goes?
deanesn said:
Can you trace where that connector goes?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
No not really, it goes to the board and after that there's no way to track it. We gotta work on getting a look inside the nexus 6 ,see if it has it.
Judging by the 4 lanes on the ribbon it doesn't seem that the connector is for wireless charging since the coil needs only 2. Although manufactures combine the connector of the nfc antenna and the wireless coil now days so i could be wrong. It could very well be for finger print sensor where moto pulled back the last moment.
https://www.ifixit.com/Teardown/Nexus+6+Teardown/32877
Sent from my Hammerhead
Infekxion said:
https://www.ifixit.com/Teardown/Nexus+6+Teardown/32877
Sent from my Hammerhead
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
saw this today, looks like that cable is not for the wireless charger. probably a fingerprint scanner they 86'd. bummer. but there are still contact points we can tap into
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=2688276
This could be of some help. For internal wireless charging they had to make some changes to the Kernel itself but in the end it was pretty successful At least for the OP.
I don't see the point in the kernel mod?
Will anyone try this? I am dying to get one but I'm so heavily invested in wireless charging in the Nexus 5. I don't want to ruin the beauty of the X with a crappy microUSB sticking out the bottom.

[Q] How many charger pins?

Hi,
Yesterday I used my Note 4 charger on other phone, and I heard a "click" when I plugged it, now I think I damage it. I searched but didn't find how many pins the charger has.
So, I would appreciate if anyone can take a picture of the charger pins or tell me if mine is normal.
Thank you.
PS: Sorry about my english grammar.
yes this is why i use a Qi wireless charger for all my phones. i destroyed the microusb port on my last phone by plugging it in backwards after 5 years of usage. the click noise is the connector breaking.
there are 5 pins.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/USB#mediaviewer/File:Types-usb_th1.svg
Connector is only rated for a few thousand plugs/unplugs which is why you should use a Qi wireless charger.
I made a test and it charged from 32% to 64% in 25 minutes with 4G on and sharing with 1 device. I guess it's normal. Am I wrong?
A better photo
Thank you. I was thinking that black space between the pins exists only on mine.
zurkx said:
i destroyed the microusb port on my last phone by plugging it in backwards after 5 years of usage.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Respect, for applying brutal force.
the click noise is the connector breaking.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The click is the tiny hooks at the connector mating it's counterparts.
there are 5 pins.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
There are 4 as you can clearly see in the pictures shown in this thread. Shall I take another one ?
You have one missing pin. Cable still working for charging but most likely wont work for data transfer and may not work for adaptive charging. Just replace cable with new one if you need data transfer.
Sent from my SM-N910T using XDA Free mobile app
The shocking truth about the missing pin
darekz said:
You have one missing pin. Cable still working for charging but most likely wont work for data transfer and may not work for adaptive charging. Just replace cable with new one if you need data transfer.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Today, I saw a vehicle with missing seats !!!
It had ONE instead of FOUR or FIVE !
It was a bicycle.
But ALL vehicles have four or five or even more seats, so the bicycle must be defective !
If you wish to move from one place to another, you urgently need to swap that bicycle with something having four or five seats !!!
(Did I make my sarcasm clear ?)
Let's get serious, guys...
That "missing" pin is the so-called "ID" pin.
It's purpose is to tell if the connected devices is a host device or a peripheral device.
If pin 4 is connected with ground, it's a host device. If the connection is open (like with our charging cable), it's a peripheral device.
That's all magic.
And that's the reason why OTG cables add that pin 4 for defining a smartphone as a host device.
It has nothing (repeat: NOTHING) to do with a cable's qualification for transmitting data or not.
For all those not accepting being wrong (hello, z...) and thinking about opening a can of worms: Try a simple Google search for "USB pin assignment" - or take the easy way: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/USB#Mini_and_Micro_connectors
And it's quite similar with many, many other connectors - like serial, SCART and the like. A lot of spare pins. Leaving out saves the manufacturer money by saving a wire in the cable; that's the main reason.
Nothing wrong with your cables.
I didnt spend time researching the subject and I use words "most likely". If I'm wrong then I apologize. Personaly I would spend $ 3 for replacement cable from monoprice just to take my mind of unneeded missing pin.
Sent from my SM-N910T using XDA Free mobile app
ignore Cheftroll as usual.
you have a broken pin.
heres my AFC cable direct from samsung. 5 pins. no question.
BTW i find it amazing the note 4 camera can capture a close up like that. lol.
zurkx said:
ignore Cheftroll as usual.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You asked for it again, so prepare for your Waterloo # 4.
heres my AFC cable direct from samsung. 5 pins. no question.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You didn't notice you took a photo of the wrong cable ? Our charger cable's plug doesn't have an oval cross section.
I repeat it just for you: That "missing" pin is just for identifying if a device is a HOST or PERIPHERAL device. If a device is not intented to be used as a host device, the cable does not need any means for signalling it's state. Have a look at the net, look it up at Wikipedia or any other source except one: You.
BTW i find it amazing the note 4 camera can capture a close up like that. lol.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It's amazing you didn't manage to take a phote which is not overexposed and clearly shows the pins.
As said: WRONG CABLE. So please stop trying to mislead people.
Here's a quite delicate offer for you: I'll show you in an uncut video that the plain normal charger cable with FOUR pins is perfectly suited for charging AND data connection. I'll show you the cable and it's plug with that "missing" pin, I'll then connect it with KIES on a PC without any cuts.
If I am right, you pay me 50 Euros. If I am wrong, I will pay you 100 Euros (about 115 US $). Fair enough ?
If I win, I'll donate that 50 Euros to XDA. If you win, you can simply keep my 100 Euros.
An offer you just cannot resist: All readers of this thread are waiting for your decision.
So take this challenge - or just close your big mouth forever.
This offer is serious: I WILL pay you 100 Euros if the standard charger cable with the "missing" pin does not work for data transmission. No strings attached.
[BIG grin]
To other readers who might wonder why I take such big steps: That person spreads wrong information in multipe XDA threads. Time to stop him flooding XDA with misleading information everywhere once and for all.
I have 4 pins too.
rs tony said:
I have 4 pins too.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Of course; like all of us. - And all of us can use that cable for charging and data connections, because it's a plain normal cable for peripheral devices.
There are cables with 5 pins; Sony provides cables like that with some devices because they are a bit better suited for universal use; you can use them either with peripheral devices or with host devices. Smartphones are peripheral devices, use as a host is quite rare. That's why Samsung provides cables with peripheral device functionality, only.
That way, they save money: 4 pins only means 4 wires only. And that's saving 1/5 of the copper costs plus a tiny amount for the gold-plated contacts. Just cents, if not less.
But if you deliver millions of cables, it sums up.
Samsung sold about 40 millions Galaxy S4. Let's say they saved just 2 cents with every USB cable delivered with the devices, it sums up to 800.000 US$; savings of almost a million US$.
And that's just for a single product of the whole Samsung portfolio. - Just by leaving out one useless pin.
Useless, because that additional pin is just for signalling host device or peripheral device. No use with a smartphone, no sense in using such cables for charging or data transfer purposes, just a waste of money. Plus, that behavior generates even more income if people wish to use their smartphones as a host device; e. g. for connecting a flash drive. So that users will buy a new, "special" cable with all 5 pins connected. Even more money for Samsung.
That's the reason.
Have you cut up the OEM cable on the Note4? There are 4 cables inside. Hence there are 4 pins.
Braxos said:
A better photo
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Ok I have same question. I have S7 edge and suddenly on normal charging (fast charging turned off) the phone has started taking around 5 hours or more to charge from 15% to 100%. I say the cable and found 4 pins and assumed that one pin is broken. I had another USB cable and used that with my original charger and this time phone charged in 2 hrs from 25% to 100% (fast charging turned off). Now I have found that original cable only has 4 pins unlike other cables which have 5 pins. I am confused about this and also wondering why my phone is taking so long to charge with original cable (and fast charging turned off).
Can anyone help ?
Would using a cable having 5 pins to charge my Samsung phone damage the port?

QI charging

I wanted to share my QI wireless charging project, I had a small turn/twist while doing it.....
I am using a BLUBOON (Make sure it's TYPE B and not TYPE A, found it to be the best one out there, but more expensive $20ish) and an LG G3 NFC + QI but the QI part does not work, it must be some special kind of charging coil? Anyhow, I just cut off the center and contacts from the QI section of the LG G3 sticker also put a piece of cardboard behind the contacts so they would actually reach the pins and on the BLUBOON I cut off the microUSB plug and soldered the + and the - to the USB port. Nicer and cleaner solution than what I had in mind (soldering the 2 pins of the LG G3 QI to cables and running them down to the USB port, making the back undetachable...)
Here is my original post on the OnePlus forum:
Code:
https://forums.oneplus.net/threads/soldering-in-an-inductive-charging-coil-internally.57772/page-6#post-9003493
So can you use the wireless charging or not? But does look nice anyhow!
jusatin said:
So can you use the wireless charging or not? But does look nice anyhow!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
LOLZ! Isn't it that the idea? Confused... J/K! Yes, it works.
Here is a pic, I guess I forgot to post one .... Honest mistake!
You should post your results in the wireless charging thread i'm sure they would love to see your setup
Cholerabob said:
You should post your results in the wireless charging thread i'm sure they would love to see your setup
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Feel free to post a link to the thread in the wireless charging thread.
Hi m4f1050,
LG G3 only has the antennas on the sticker, the NFC board is inside the phone (as usual) and also the Qi board (usually in the sticker for other brands such as Samsung !). That's why it didn't worked.
Take a look at mburris mod : http://forum.xda-developers.com/showpost.php?p=57765939&postcount=235
I think it's rather easier that way
Anyway, good job and thanks for sharing !
LoganMcClay said:
Hi m4f1050,
LG G3 only has the antennas on the sticker, the NFC board is inside the phone (as usual) and also the Qi board (usually in the sticker for other brands such as Samsung !). That's why it didn't worked.
Take a look at mburris mod : http://forum.xda-developers.com/showpost.php?p=57765939&postcount=235
I think it's rather easier that way
Anyway, good job and thanks for sharing !
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
8 soldering points vs 2 soldering points ... IDK if it's "easier" but hey, 2 options! I also get +400 mA with my setup. At 25% it said it would take 6 hrs to fully charge..which is half of what a 2.1 amp wall charger (3 hrs to fully charge on 25% batt) Tested both ways.
EDIT: Here is a quick snapshot of my charge mA's (I've seen 400+ but today at work I only got up to +375 maybe it's the wall charger vs the one at home....)
Here is my OPO on my home charger. Its a Trident single dock. Ordered the dual dock for home and took the single one to work.
IMHO the Chinese docks (black or white with the wireless symbol in center and a red on and blue charging lights) aren't as great...
BTW I downgraded back to 4.4.4 since 5.0.2 was draining the phone more in idle.
damn.. i cant solder worth SH!T.. so this wont help me.. lol
gd6noob said:
damn.. i cant solder worth SH!T.. so this wont help me.. lol
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I did the soldering because I wanted the USB available, but you can get the generic charger that plugs into the USB port then you put the lid over.
It's how I first started with QI on my OPO. Just make sure you get --TYPE B-- instead of --TYPE A--
Type A: narrow end of micro USB upward.
Type B: narrow end of micro USB downward (what we have on our OPO's)
m4f1050 said:
I did the soldering because I wanted the USB available, but you can get the generic charger that plugs into the USB port then you put the lid over.
It's how I first started with QI on my OPO. Just make sure you get --TYPE B-- instead of --TYPE A--
Type A: narrow end of micro USB upward.
Type B: narrow end of micro USB downward (what we have on our OPO's)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
so this cover the usb port?
gd6noob said:
so this cover the usb port?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Check pics. I cut off the USB plug and soldered it. But originally it was a BLUBOON generic QI charger (type b)
If you are soldering you can use TYPE A but you have to inverse + and - before soldering to the charging port.
EDIT: Attachment shows QI charging from 77% to 100% in an hour and a half. Almost 25% in 1.5 hrs. So around 6~7 hrs from 0% to 100%

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