Hi Folks,
A friend gave me an unbranded MHL plug because it didn't work for him and he went out and got the Samsung authentic product which worked fine. Didn't take long to figure out the connector on the el-cheapo was of the 5 pin variety, it needed 11 pin - so I ordered a 11-to-5pin adapter for it and it also works fine - at least on his device - my friend's S4 model is 9505 (Apr 2013) and my S4 is 9507 (Nov 2013) - mine will not accept the 11-pin microUSB cable - it seems to have some physical depth issue so the the cable never actually connects - I can't make out any difference visually between the two and I can't see any differences in the specs yet there is a difference on how deep the 11pin connector goes in .
I thought it may have some obstruction like a lint buildup (pocket or bellybutton) but I have also tried this on a colleagues S4 which is also a 9505 and it works fine. I'm looking for someone else with a 9507 to try this out on but I'm quickly running out of resources so I figured I'd just get online and ask the pros.
Anyone experienced this problem of fitting an 11pin microUSB in their S4 device?
Thanks
*** SOLVED *** I found someone in the office who had the same model i9507 and the 11pin microUSB connector fitted albeit needing a fair bit of force and coaxing - it snapped into place. So we took photos of the ports using each others cameras and blew them up, didn't look much different except mine looked as if it was rusted if anything. I used a pin-board pin around the metal tab in the port and it yielded a bit of gunk and eventually a fair bit came loose from the underside (the narrow side) and that it seems was to inhibit the deeper 11pin connector path.
As many do, I carry my phone around in my pocket and undoubtedly the lint collection over the years is the source of the gunk. For the small amount of fluff that did come out of the port I'd estimate the obstruction was < 1mm - but enough to stop the connector's tabs from engaging - gives a fair indication of how little margin there is for this 11pin connector in the port.
Cheers
Related
Does anyone sell a long MicroUSB adapter kit for DIY docking stations?
Something that can be assembled onto a fiberglass or wood dock.
As in, a connector that doesn't have the molded end with cable already attached.
But wht exacty u need? Micro/mini usb cable? Usb male/female pin/plug? Give some mor details.
HD2 HYPERDROID EXTREME EDITION V6.0.1 @ FIKERT KERNAL.
Most micro USB connectors come apart pretty easily.
There are usually 3 tack solder contacts on one side and 2 on the other.
Get yourself a few $3 cables and a razor blade to try out.
You can strip the shells off, route a hole in your stand and insert it.
I think by "long" microUSB he mean really those longer ones, with ~16 additional pins, like one we can find in Nook Tablet.
Rebellos said:
I think by "long" microUSB he mean really those longer ones, with ~16 additional pins, like one we can find in Nook Tablet.
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I disagree, he wants to make his own dock, and needs something a bit longer that will be easier to mount. I have thought about the same thing myself
I think one of these below should do the trick, as they can be taken apart, but obviously, you'll have to do your own soldering. It's a bit tricky, even with a 0.5mm pencil tip iron.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/8pin-micr..._MobilePhoneDataCables_JN&hash=item43afbf91cb
Good luck!
you might want to check out parts sites. I did a quick search on mouser.com for micro usb and under interconnects i selected "USB connectors" you can see a picture of most of the options and even go with micro 3.0 if its better for you
Whoops, I forgot about this thread.
Thanks for all the great suggestions so far!
Yeah, I want the longer USB. Because right now, I have an OEM Samsung car dock that I use.
But when I have my phone in a TPU case, the USB isn't long enough anymore to properly insert all the way into the phone. Because the TPU case puts the phone about 1/4" further from the USB.
I like the idea of stipping a three dollar USB cable.
I think this will be a long term project that I'll work on here and there.
Looking into this myself but for a different reason. I can't find what I want but I did order two of these and I reckon they will work perfectly for you.
http://ie.farnell.com/hrs-hirose/zx80-b-5s/micro-usb-type-b-plug/dp/1719110?Ntt=171-9110
I think that's also Newark in the US. Probably the same part number there. There is at least an extra 5mm there to get you past the TPU case.
1. I looked at ifixit internal images for the Apple TV and noticed that the board has test points, figured there may be a chance to JTAG it.
2. I wanted to check if Apple is using JTAG or SWD (serial wire debug) as ARM supports both. A quick search on jobs.apple.com reveals that Apple only uses JTAG/ICE and not Serial Wire Debug (no mention of it in the job descriptions). They talk about board level OS testing, so they do final testing in house after the board is fully manufactured. It seems they use cadence concept/allegro
3. I picked up ATV3 at Fry's this this morning and opened it, I did find space for two connectors
4. A 10 pin connector looks like ARM 10-PIN JTAG connector - (Mfgr: Don Connex P/N: C42 or Samtec P/N: SHF-105-01-L-D-TH). hxxp://xxx.samtec.com/ftppub/pdf/FTSH_SMT.PDF See attached picture: ATV3_J5101.jpg
5. A 30 pin FFC FPC ribbon cable connector. See attached picture: ATV3_J7301.jpg
I haven't traced the pins yet, but one them has to have JTAG. I will post my findings, but wanted to see if xda developers is the right forum or is there another place?
Another interest is that A5 is also in iphone 5. As the software bugs are patched, we may have only left with hardware hack to jailbreak. Hoping we can load a patched boot loader. Plus I am kinda old school developer hint: dms3/HU/S00/powersync
nice ur idea , is it apple will left their chip Jtag points opened ? get schematic and check if jtag is opened ..
early devices iDevices are all jtag closed like there :
Schematics? It's gonna be super hard to find those for the new devices
The difference between apple tv and iphone/ipod is that apple tv has PCB pads for actual connectors, the others only have test pads for board verification in the factory.
Based on my experience the solder pad lay out is a standard 30pin FPC.
Another thought is that the J7301 the 30pin connector could also be the standard IPOD connector as I have seen 30pin (single row ) connectors - but most of them have thru hole solder mounts. Anyone care to comment?
rgdeja said:
Schematics? It's gonna be super hard to find those for the new devices
The difference between apple tv and iphone/ipod is that apple tv has PCB pads for actual connectors, the others only have test pads for board verification in the factory.
Based on my experience the solder pad lay out is a standard 30pin FPC.
Another thought is that the J7301 the 30pin connector could also be the standard IPOD connector as I have seen 30pin (single row ) connectors - but most of them have thru hole solder mounts. Anyone care to comment?
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On the J7301 connector why dont you compare the pinouts to see if the gnd matches up to the board one,
darkspr1te
darkspr1te said:
On the J7301 connector why dont you compare the pinouts to see if the gnd matches up to the board one,
darkspr1te
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Already did, they dont match at all.
Booloader Discussion - Comments requested
Does any one know if Apple actually Rom Masked the bootrom on silicon of A5/A6 or just the keys and or key hash?
Based on my experience, some (usually dumb and to save on cost) chipset vendors will have an 'i2c like back door' and then load the ROM instead of actually MASKing it during fab. After the wafer is tested and passed verification, 'ROM MASK' is loaded then wafer is sent for packaging, If the left hand doesn't talk to the right hand, then these 'back door pads' on the wafer are wire bonded and the data sheet reflects as "reserved or test" PINs.
Also, the silicon is very expensive to have full ROM or public key to be masked in silicon.
Has anyone 'de-capped' an A5/A6 to find out unused pads on the silicon wafer?
I have seen a few post showing that people are noticing their power port on the phone is loose or wiggles, can those of you with an S4 check to see if this is the case or is the connecting good?
wallstreet123456 said:
I have seen a few post showing that people are noticing their power port on the phone is loose or wiggles, can those of you with an S4 check to see if this is the case or is the connecting good?
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Mine wiggles. I even took it to the store and the demo ones all did it. Funny thing is, it only seems severe with the white cable the phone came with. I have a black micro and it seems very snug. I just might use that.
The white one, when plugged in wiggles back and fourth and up and down. The port itself is a tad loose but when 4 of the demo ones at the store wiggled I had a piece of mind.
It's normal. Some people won't even notice it and will say theirs is fine, when in reality it does wiggle. Charges perfectly fine.
also remember there are clips on the cable itself, those start to loose their 'tightness' as well and can be responsible for the loose feeling. I've recently purchased some monoprice cables and fit very sung, but in about a year or so, this port will loosen up, which is hands down one of the biggest adv over the one, we can replace this port when it does go.
datrumole said:
also remember there are clips on the cable itself, those start to loose their 'tightness' as well and can be responsible for the loose feeling. I've recently purchased some monoprice cables and fit very sung, but in about a year or so, this port will loosen up, which is hands down one of the biggest adv over the one, we can replace this port when it does go.
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But this is a NEW device how can it already become loose.
my point was simply that it's not always the port, it often times can be the cables. if you have a brand new cable and port, i would expect it to be tight, but if the cable is not known/designed to be tight, it might not be the port. I'm using brand new monoprice cales, not the supplied white one, and i'm finding that while there is a little leeway in the base of the connection (which is a good thing) the cable is well secured in the port, meaning it's strength to pull it out/push it in, that should be your judge of port connection, not the wabble in the base. The wobble in the base is actually a good thing, it's not frequent your phone is on a flat surface while charging, and often times the cord is pulling off the side of a table or counter top, this creates pressure in the port. if you've taken physics you understand the concept of levels and mechanical advantage. by giving it a bit of leeway, it lowers the point of lever, and creating less stress on the internals of the port compared to one that has a very snug fit. the only time i would be concerned about the loose port is when it's becoming easier to pull it in/take it out (like throwing a hot dog down a bowling alley
Mine is very solid
I swear for as smart.and.as great as this phone is, the easiest things to fix which pose the biggest.problems arent.fixed. Having the phone plugged.in.while using.it in landscape creates huge stress.on the port. So much that the cable gets looser as the pins are bent. Stupid samsung with their.idiotic location for.ports, but I.digress... has anyone found a longterm fix for this? . I thinking like a plastic moount that clips.to.
The bottom of the phone and.encases the beginning of the charger cable to prevent any stress in any direction? My temporary solution is I rubberband the beginning of the cable in a few loops as if I have it zip tied. This prevents any minor tugging from directly pulling the port.
First of all new USB 3 port cost about $14 and could be replaced by user in about 30 min even if you don't have 1 yr warranty. You can use any USB 2 wire to charge Note 3, some are much thinner and more flexible, than the factory cable. And with at least 6 hours screen time I can't imagine running out of power before night, when I put it on charger and go to sleep, but I do have full time job and little kids so actually never had a chance to use it for 6 hrs in 1 day anyhow. Maybe you need bigger battery and if you don't like Samsung design maybe another phone, I don't see anything wrong with it, otherwise would not buy it, heard Apple is a popular brand, but never actually used it.
pete4k said:
First of all new USB 3 port cost about $14 and could be replaced by user in about 30 min even if you don't have 1 yr warranty.
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I hate giving a reply that doesn't really help the OP, but I can somewhat sorta agree with this comment. Sorta.
Because I got the Note 3 now but haven't broken its port yet.
However I did have the Note 2 and the Galaxy S2 and there was that issue if you're careless. Sloppy plugging and stress, sometimes a few drops of water falling on the port too and shorting it, etc. Anyway, I'm very unskilled and clumsy regarding basic electronics repairs but still managed to replace the USB board on the S2 with Ebay parts. It was less than 20 USD, the board and a kit of screwdrivers. It really is very easy to replace that part if you damage the USB port (getting the infamous "charging / not charging intermittent warnings, even when the phones are not connected to anything).
I seriously doubt the N2 or N3 are much more complex. (I used repair videos on YouTube for the S2, I'm sure they will pop up for the N3 if relevant)
Not so with other components (Screen, for instance). So take some care with it and don't worry too much because even home-repair is fairly accessible and cheap in that case.
Okay let me paint you a picture..I play aot of poker. there is an outlet under the table so I have my phone plugged in sitting on the rail behind my chips as I either watch 24/7 movies or play games.but since my phone is horizontal, naturally gravity works its magic and puts pressure on the port. not only that, but the less slack I have the more pressure is applied.
so as you can see my circumstances are very specific to my regular usage of this device. hence I utilize rubber bands.sometimes.
If you guys are really concerned about the usb port on the phone being damaged, maybe something like the qi wireless charger can help.
Or maybe buying a spare battery.
Or buy a right angled usb cable
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I got a good deal on a refurbished Tegra Note 7 so I quickly snagged it as I wanted a tablet for media consumption, some browsing + gaming! Now I've read all the reviews and came across the infamous ultra flimsy micro-usb port. I'm hoping that the tablet was refurbished because of a faulty port and they put in an awesome one! Anyway, do you guys have any suggestions for me so that I don't break the port like using a particular charger, any specific way to charge it(Wireless Charging without any soldering or other method that requires skills with tools?) or anything, really. Also, in case it does break, I'm guessing inevitably it will, has anyone found a convenient way except sending it to the respective manufacturers?
I just recently got a used one off eBay. The cord that came with it was a very tight fit and I could see how that would eventually break the port. Fortunately my samsung cord slips on the port very easily. And since it's white I marked the top of the cord with black magic marker so I never put it in wrong. So far it's working out great.
There's not much else to do but be extremely careful or go buy a Micro USB Type A cable. The whole problem with the port is that they used the wrong one.
http://www.yogaretnam.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/07/micro_usb_type_a_b.jpg
I never even knew there were two types of Micro USB connectors until I got this thing. I never bothered to get the right cable (and Nvidia didn't bother including the right one... did they even know there were two types?), and thanks to a minor fall while plugged in, I have to plug my cable in slightly crooked to get it to charge right. If I plug it straight in, it will show it's charging but actually drain the battery even if the stupid thing is off!