So I have a near flawless screen on my HD2, but I have that issue where using the end call button messes up the responsiveness of my screen. I just normally avoid using that button by using a screen off widget, but it's a pain when I want to flash new things. I don't want to pay the $80 to have it professionally repaired, that's too much for a 2 year old device. I'm wondering, is it possible to just take the screen off of the HD2,put the loose cable securely back in place, and then put the screen back? That would save me some time and money if it is, but I don't want to try it unless I'm [somewhat] sure it'll work. Any suggestions are welcome.
from my experence it can be 2 things:
actual endkey button/flexboard fault or the digitizer ribbon.
either fault requires parts & in the case of the digitizer ribbon that requires digitizer panel & an LCD if you not careful & a flexboard if you really don't take care ...
Well I have a friend who's really good with this stuff, and he said he'd fix it if I get the neccessary parts. So if I buy the OEM digitizer from Amazon [ $20 ], would he just need to take out my current one and put that one in? Or is there more to it than just the digitizer?
I had one of this problem before. What I ended up doing was just remapping the power button to the green call button.
Use keynumbertracker to find out what key number the power button is, and then use buttonremapper to change the function from Call to Power
Basically if it is digitizer flex cable issue then yes you just fit this part.
Removal of digitizer is not that easy & bonding the new digitizer to be dust proof, correct offset from LCD & correct overhang position is critical, failure by fraction of a milimeter result in button pad not working, assembly not fitting, Digi sitting higher than casing ect ect.
Extreme care needs to be taken opening these devices up or you will have A new digi but a pile of scrap to stick it too.
You will also need to know what type of digi you have: 295 solder assembly or the better 300 socket plug assembly.
They can be interchanged as LCD & Digi but if replacing just one then they must match.
You will also need 3M tape thin & padded, super glue & perhaps a little PU40 adhesive or similar adhesive silicone.
Xeroday said:
I had one of this problem before. What I ended up doing was just remapping the power button to the green call button.
Use keynumbertracker to find out what key number the power button is, and then use buttonremapper to change the function from Call to Power
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I would normally use the soft keys in ICS to avoid using the buttons at all, and that works just fine. However, I still can't flash new ROMs or anything else flashable without holding down the end call button reduces my flashing greatly. Also, the screen is just not responding at all the past few days, otherwise I'd be happy with just using soft keys.
Mister B said:
Basically if it is digitizer flex cable issue then yes you just fit this part.
Removal of digitizer is not that easy & bonding the new digitizer to be dust proof, correct offset from LCD & correct overhang position is critical, failure by fraction of a milimeter result in button pad not working, assembly not fitting, Digi sitting higher than casing ect ect.
Extreme care needs to be taken opening these devices up or you will have A new digi but a pile of scrap to stick it too.
You will also need to know what type of digi you have: 295 solder assembly or the better 300 socket plug assembly.
They can be interchanged as LCD & Digi but if replacing just one then they must match.
You will also need 3M tape thin & padded, super glue & perhaps a little PU40 adhesive or similar adhesive silicone.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Oh, I have the T-mobile version by the way..that one doesn't require soldering, does it?
Okay, so just to clarify [ sorry for my confusion, I just wanna make sure I get it right!]
So if the problem is just with the flex cable, to fix it I have to
1. take apart the screen from the main body, and reconnect the cable?
or
2. Buy a new digitizer, take out the old one, put the new one in?
Thank you so much for your assistance by the way. I wanted to use my HD2 until June of next year [ when I graduate] and finally get a new phone then, but the screen issues were making me think about giving in and getting a new phone now. If I can fix this, I'll be happy with my HD2 for a while longer!
If T-Mobile US (TMOUS) then it will have 300 type & be connecter plug.
Digitizer with flex should fix problem.
Worth dismantling first because if you crack LCD for example you would then best buy LCD & Digi assembly pre assembled as one unit.
Good repair with just Digi is possible but you will need to take exreme care in dismantling & assembling to get it working well & cosmetically pleasing ...
Good luck ...
Make sure to heat up your lcd/digitizer assembly with a hair dryer until the glue is soft, otherwise you will crack the lcd when you seperate the lcd and digitizer..
e334 said:
Make sure to heat up your lcd/digitizer assembly with a hair dryer until the glue is soft, otherwise you will crack the lcd when you seperate the lcd and digitizer..
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'm currently working on it [well my friend is]. I just recieved the parts in the mail today. However, could you tell me what this is?
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The backside (under metallic cover) of a (IMO, broken/unusable_anymore) LCD!
bib*oops said:
The backside (under metallic cover) of a (IMO, broken/unusable_anymore) LCD!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Ouch! I guess I'll be buying a new one now.
Ah, this would've all been so much easier to take to a store to repair for me. It probably would've been worth the extra $20 it would've cost, but I guess this is a good learning experience for me to not attempt self repair again!
Button remap on Mango
I'm having a similar digitizer problem. HD2 is two years old and I'd prefer not to send it in AGAIN. How do I do a button remap on Mango 7.5 to swap the power/screen lock button and avoid the issue?
turizzmo said:
I'm having a similar digitizer problem. HD2 is two years old and I'd prefer not to send it in AGAIN. How do I do a button remap on Mango 7.5 to swap the power/screen lock button and avoid the issue?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
As of now there isn't a button remap for Mango that can fix the problem. I looked around for one, but you can only remap certain buttons. If you want to remap the power button, you've to to use an older version of WP7, I believe. [That's what kept me from using it; I wanted to use Mango, but not without button remapping]
Mister B said:
If T-Mobile US (TMOUS) then it will have 300 type & be connecter plug.
Digitizer with flex should fix problem.
Worth dismantling first because if you crack LCD for example you would then best buy LCD & Digi assembly pre assembled as one unit.
Good repair with just Digi is possible but you will need to take exreme care in dismantling & assembling to get it working well & cosmetically pleasing ...
Good luck ...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hey, I've got just one more question. So I had ordered the LCD and digitizer separately [ I don't know why, I wasn't thinking straight], and while I got the correct digitizer, the LCD was wrong; it was labeled as being usable with the HD2, but I think it was meant only for the EVO. Anyways, I returned both of those to Amazon just in time to get a refund, and now am going to order the LCD+digitizer pre-assembled together. Would this one work?
http://www.amazon.com/HTC-HD2-DIGIT...DSM0/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1332640698&sr=8-1
It says for the TMOUS HD2, so I assume yes, I just wanted to make absolutely sure so I don't have to return again. I was worried at first about the low rating, but that turns out it was because out of the 2 ratings it has, one was because a Dominican guy ordered it and it was not for the non-US HD2.
The one you are linking to in Amazon is a 295 solder type.
get the 300 type & be 100% sure it is pre assembled as one piece.
link below is 300type all pre assembled with good P&P handling ...
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/300556391393
Mister B said:
The one you are linking to in Amazon is a 295 solder type.
get the 300 type & be 100% sure it is pre assembled as one piece.
link below is 300type all pre assembled with good P&P handling ...
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/300556391393
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks for pointing that out, I was about to order that piece but didn't. I am going to get this one-
http://www.ebay.com/itm/T-mobile-LC...ltDomain_0&hash=item4161c8b8fa#ht_2320wt_1052
[ I couldn't use the link you provided me as I'm in the US, but this one should be the same piece]
Should be ok, it is the correct 300 type. I would confirm if lcd & digi are already bonded as many are not.
pre bonded will save you a job & will be better than you can achieve.
buying this pre assembled just leaves you to stick it to the inner chassis which is not too hard with good quality thin 3M tape & a little PU40 adhesive near corners & a spot on edges near centre (3M tape on its own is not good enough) ...
I think it's pre-bonded, but I'll ask the seller to confirm. I already have this tape-
http://www.amazon.com/Adhesive-Stic...QW3U/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1332778955&sr=8-2
So just use some PU40 [I have some of that also] to attach and this will be good?
That is the sort of tape you would use for lcd to Digi.
For LCD/Digi assembly to chassis you want a wider thin 3M tape for mounting points behind LCD, you also will need some black foam type 3M tape cut to shape & with holes for sensors ect for the top & bottom of digi glass contact to plastic parts of chassis.
Keeping the LCD to chassis bonding thin is a critical must as too thick ends with digi glass raised higher than back panel suround edging.
I used thin 3M tape applied to back of LCD & duplicated on chassis & left corners free & central edge of chassis free for spots of PU40 as 3M alone does not hold long term & you will see screen raising in corners or moving/flexing under use ...
Had a work college who had his screen replaced & used 3M, was ok in our warm climate but one trip to icy/damp east Europe & screen assmembly became loose & was lifting & button pad was loose & hard to use.
Hardly any of the aftermarket 3M is equal to factory strenth & rebonding needs to better really on rebuild to keep screen flush as possible & assembly firmly bonded as one.
His unit was first for my PU40 & thin tape 3M method & besides better bonding it also gave almost perfect digi hight to back cover edges as his original padded tape made it raised about 1mm too much ...
worth noting many aftermarket screen/digi assemblys are slightly thicker than standard factory so thin 3M on chassis bonding balances this out.
Could you give me a link to PU40 glue? I Googled it, but can't seem to find it. Do you know if it is similar to E3000 glue also? I have quite a bit of that, so if they are interchangeable I will be set to *finally* get my HD2 together again once the piece comes in.
E3000 glue - http://catalogue.3m.eu/en_EU/EU-IAT...crylate_Adhesive~E3000/Cyanoacrylate_Adhesive
Related
First, it'd like to thank
MikeChannon
for pointing out something important that narrowed down my testing.
Now, onto the problem Symptoms :
- D-Pad, IE and Email buttons cease to work
- Screen fades to white or comes back from standby as white
- Display is slight disaligned to the side, 1mm of left appears on right side.
- Randomness in all above symptoms.
Cause : It is the D-Pad connector.
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Yes, the D-Pad connection DOES cause the whitescreen. It's odd and illogical, but this is the conclusion I have reached.
ALL the previous guides, such as sliding plastic between the screen and casing, were randomly moving things inside.
By CHANCE ONLY it'd affect the D-Pad connector positively. That is why such solutions only worked for a few people temporarely.
SOLUTION :
You will need to try variants of the following things :
- Tightness of the screws over the connector
- Disconnecting the plug and reconnecting it very carefully
- Pressure over the bibbon between the D-Pad connector and the screen.
- Pressure over the D-Pad connector itself
- Tightness of the screws over the D-Pad PCD
- Tightness of the screws closing the plastic casing of this part of the phone
To stress-test the variants, I ran a D-Pad intensive game (Skyforce) for 30 minutes or until the symptoms came back.
I've played around with all those, giving mixed results, but definitively making a difference.
My final and best result was by putting a thin foam piece over the blue parts in the picture below. (Ignore the red circles, original picture is taken from a website)
The foam I used was the typical foam sheets you find in packaging for fragile electronics such as motherboards, hard drives, graphic cards etc. It has to be super thing in other to close the casing without buldges.
There isn't a specific thing you can do that will make your D-Pad be reliable and the whitescreen to go away. You'll have to do several tests, so I recommend you keep your phone disassembled while testing. The connector is VERY VERY SENSITIVE. That is why I cannot be any more precise in how to fix this. However, you NOW KNOW what causes the screen to freak out and buttons to stop working.
What I did for testing :
I have tested my phone while it was completely disassembled. Meaning I had the back of the monitor open, as seen in the picture above.
That way, I could fiddle around and instantly test the result.
I've fiddle with the cables, the screen pressure, everything. Nothing returned the screen from being white or becoming white.
Putting pressure D-Pad connector's ribbon or actual pin caused the screen to either turn on white, or fade to white. (Results often noticed only after going in & out of standby)
It also caused my D-Pad buttons and the top 2 buttons (IE & Email) to either work or not work.
Oh and this is my testing setup. Elastic band to hold the battery in place, everything else opened. However, I had to place/remove the backcover of the screen part of the phone to test as it affects the pressure put on the connector.
wow. I don't have balls to break apart my 8525 like that.
mutantblack said:
wow. I don't have balls to break apart my 8525 like that.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Well this fix is for those who got a big enough problem and can't return it under warranty.
Anyhow, taking apart the TyTN is quite simple, and the thing is sturdy.
Only and only the D-Pad connector is tricky. The big ribbon connecting the two halfs of the phone is quite solid and never caused problems.
guys... what/where can i get the screw driver to open this mofo... it looks like a hex allen wrench but that doesnt work...
i have had this issue for months now and will try anything to fix it but i need to know where i can get this screw driver and fast!!!!
So it is a problem with the connector itself or cause by flex in the cable?
Also, where are you putty pressure on the connector? Are you saying if the screws are too tight this is a problem as well.
jwagman1 said:
guys... what/where can i get the screw driver to open this mofo... it looks like a hex allen wrench but that doesnt work...
i have had this issue for months now and will try anything to fix it but i need to know where i can get this screw driver and fast!!!!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It's a TORX No6 screwdriver you need. Available online or from stores like Maplin who sell Phone screwdriver sets.
Check out links in the Wiki here or in my signature for internal pics, dismantling guides and to download the service manual (that also has a dismantling walkthrough)
Mike
Vasichko said:
So it is a problem with the connector itself or cause by flex in the cable?
Also, where are you putty pressure on the connector? Are you saying if the screws are too tight this is a problem as well.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Seems to me there may be a bit of trial and error regarding the fix. The service manual points out that the d-pad connector must be precisely inserted and absolutely level. So both under-tightening the screws or over-tightening could distort the connection. If you have it apart, take out and reconnect the push in connector several times This helps to ensure there is no oxidisation on the contacts.
(PS. this is not my fix so I cannot testify that it will work for you, though I believe it is on the right track, at least for some cases of this problem)
Mike
It's really intersting to know I'm not alone to have this issue ...
Do you have a site who describe how to open the Hermes ?
Thanks
mikechannon said:
It's a TORX No6 screwdriver you need. Available online or from stores like Maplin who sell Phone screwdriver sets.
Check out links in the Wiki here or in my signature for internal pics, dismantling guides and to download the service manual (that also has a dismantling walkthrough)
Mike
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
THANK YOU!! amazon.com overnight!!! woooo
I tried this diy.
I didnt have a small enough phillips to remove the screws from the connector on the D-Pad.
Know where I can get one?
So I took all the connections, put some automotive electronic connection cleaner on a q-tip and cleaned all of the other ones.
I used some automotive light double sided adhesive that you can get at Auto Zone instead of form. I only used 1 side of the adhesive and didnt peal the other side off, if it doesnt work, its easily removeable, just wanted to make sure it stays in place when I re-assemble the phone.
I also added some in a place you didnt which I show in yellow on your photo.
So far so good after 5 minutes.
Mine PDA was also totally disassembled and atleast in my device the problem wasn't a faulty connector.. I had the front panel off and when I squeezed the Xilinx fpga-chip(black square on d-pad circuitboard) the the screen worked fine -when i took my fingers off it faded back to white. Earlier I also tried re-soldering the connector but it didnt work on my device.
marciton said:
It's really intersting to know I'm not alone to have this issue ...
Do you have a site who describe how to open the Hermes ?
Thanks
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Dismantling guides and the service manual:
www.mikechannon.net
Mike
Hermes / TyTn / 8525 White Screen
Hey guy,
Nice write-up.
Good that someone has taken the time to experiment with different procedures.
I gave up on mine, after taking it apart time and time again.
-Reseating the cables and completely disassembling the unit was a tempereary fix, so I sold it on eBay for a parts / repair.
I just purchased another on eBay.
This time, instead of getting worked up about the white screen of death, I had purchased a warranty from www.squaretrade.com.
I am not an AT&T customer, so I unlocked the phone.
Neither AT&T or HTC can help when you dont have their service , or it's a branded phone.
Keep up the good work.
So far since my post before lunch today. No problems at all.
It used to white out when taking a picture with the camera, randomly when sliding out the keyboard, randomly when using the D-Pad.
No problems at all today after doing this fix posted here and adding the extra pad that I did.
im gonna have to try this when i get my new housing....anyone know where i can get a front camera?
Just giving another update. So far so good, no problems at all.
DPad no longer has the issue of not working here and there.
White screen issues appear to be gone.
Hopefully for good.
I will still post updates so you all can know the status.
Thx again for the right up. I will post some pics of the type of tape I used as well.
I have the rest of december left on my warranty. Do you guys think PPCtechs will know how to fix this? i don't want to send it to them and have it sent back with the same probs (like they did last time i sent it in to get my scroll wheel and camera lense repaired).
Miguel- said:
Mine PDA was also totally disassembled and atleast in my device the problem wasn't a faulty connector.. I had the front panel off and when I squeezed the Xilinx fpga-chip(black square on d-pad circuitboard) the the screen worked fine -when i took my fingers off it faded back to white. Earlier I also tried re-soldering the connector but it didnt work on my device.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes indeed, re-aligning and reconnecting the connector works for many but will not work for all. There are, as you say instances where it is a chip connection that's at fault. There is little if anything you can do with that problem other than board replacement unless you have the correct tools - http://forum.xda-developers.com/showpost.php?p=1724236&postcount=66
Mike
It looks to be a design flaw. I dropped my maybe 3ft on the carpet yesterday and got the white screen issue. I took apart and looked at the connector in question. Even with it screwed in you can unplug it half way. So I added some more padding.
I think part of the problem is that coming from the back of the LCD to the DPad board or whatever you call it, the angle of the ribbon cable declines.
UPDATE
I did it
I bought a digitizer from ebay 17$ shipped versus 50$ for a lcd combo.
Arrived in a week from hogkong, wrapped in toilet paper (unused) with a screwdriver (wrong size) and a plastic opening tool (kinda useful).
I took apart the phone using the instructions, you can find them online if you google for them.
I removed the LCD-digitizer combo. Now the tricky part:
removing the digitizer is hard, it is very well glued/taped to the screen. Mine was broke so after I removed the plastic sheet(the actual digitizer) I had to remove piece by piece all the glass. It was a little war on my desk that resulted in a little scratch on my screen but in the end I did it.
removing the connection tape is not hard, the connector is just attached.
I set the new digitizer in place, insert the ribbon through that hole (actually I had to remove the metal back from the screen to do that).
I taped the new ribbon. And it didn't work. I read somewhere that you have to solder it back but I don't have such a device and buying one defeated the purpose of spending all this time taking that screen apart.
So I carefully clean the connector, set it in place and taped it again. Didn't work again. But I noticed that if I putt some pressure on it the it works.
so I put a bunch of tape there and when I put the phone back together it worked.
Time: about 4 hours of work. But it is my first time I took a phone apart , and I kept loosing screws and all sorts of adventures.
It's not really worth it, more likely I broke something else, i had a hard time reconnecting the keyboard, I actually had to cut a pice from the keyboard ribbon because of the faulty contacts but IT was a fun project. I was debating between a new phone and fixing this, and i decided that if I screw it completely it doesn't matter, and i guess I had some good luck. If you guys have any questions, I know i should have take pictures, but I forgot, you can email me at [email protected].
Thank you for all the help I got on this site.
I broke my screen (Tmobile Wing) but I guess I cracked only the touch screen, not the LCD. The phone works, the LCd works, only the screen does not responde to any touching.
I found LCD screen replacements (~50$ shipped) but I also found the touch screen only replacements (~20$ shipped). Does anybody know if Only the touch part of the screen can be replaced? I never took my phone apart. Is the screen combo made from two layers that can be separated?
Thank you for your help.
oxyne said:
I broked my screen (Tmobile Wing) but I guess I cracked only the touch screen, not the LCD. The phone works, the LCd works, only the screen does not responde to any touching.
I found LCD screen replacements (~50$ shipped) but I also found the touch screen only replacements (~20$ shipped). Does anybody know if Only the touch part of the screen can be replaced? I never took my phone apart. Is the screen combo made from two layers that can be separated?
Thank you for your help.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
had the same problem check this thread i started a while back...
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=354500
also heres a good link to buyin an actual screen as u can see its totally seperate from the device and CAN be replaced http://www.gethightech.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=XX2117&Category_Code=CS
u can even still use while broken on ur PC at home/work using usb and 'my-mobiler' http://www.mymobiler.com/
I want to replace only the touch part of the screen not the whole lcd/touch combo. the link you gave me is the combo. you can buy something like this: much cheaper:
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my lcd works, my phone works, I just have a bunch of cracks and cannot use the stylus.
oxyne said:
I want to replace only the touch part of the screen not the whole lcd/touch combo. the link you gave me is the combo. you can buy something like this: much cheaper:
my lcd works, my phone works, I just have a bunch of cracks and cannot use the stylus.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
wow good to know, unfortunatley i had purchased another device before even checking up on these things, i was still new to this site and my Wing...oh well
I took my broken lcd apart to see if I could get some info for you. It looks damn near impossible to detach and re-attach the the ribbon cable for the digitizer. Since yours is broken, you might as well take it apart and see for yourself before buying just the digitizer. Good luck
oxyne said:
I want to replace only the touch part of the screen not the whole lcd/touch combo. the link you gave me is the combo. you can buy something like this: much cheaper:
my lcd works, my phone works, I just have a bunch of cracks and cannot use the stylus.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I posted an update in the first message, thank you guys for all your help
I got a Replacement LCD for my WING for $55 at WWW.HTCLCD.COM
Cracked LCD/Touch Screen-Wing?
timace said:
had the same problem check this thread i started a while back...
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=354500
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hi: Just now read your post..Am I understanding that I don't need to buy the "LCD" screen for $45.00 and only need the touch screen that sells for $17.00? If so, then the cracked part underneath the plastic on my Wing is fixable? My phone still rings and is answerable but I cannot call out using the screen. The backlight etc. is still working and I just bought this so I am looking for a cheaper repair. Thankx
LCD vs. TOUCH SCREEN T-Mobile Wing
I think I can replace just the touch screen if the glass underneath the top plastic is cracked..(In a hurry to visit Halloween Horror Nights @ Universal Studios and ran over it) The phone still receives calls but the screen is white and when touched turns the cracks black, the backlight is still active, the qwerty is fine etc...So.................do I need the LCD or just the Touch Screen?
kthing said:
I think I can replace just the touch screen if the glass underneath the top plastic is cracked..(In a hurry to visit Halloween Horror Nights @ Universal Studios and ran over it) The phone still receives calls but the screen is white and when touched turns the cracks black, the backlight is still active, the qwerty is fine etc...So.................do I need the LCD or just the Touch Screen?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
hey bro.. seriously dont even try to figure out what you need.. the lcd or the digitizer.. my current wing has the screen replaced.. its a very simple fix.. just buy an lcd that has the digitizer with it already.. please please be careful on making sure it has warranty and is the exact one for your phone.. if need be i have detailed pics on how to take apart the wing including text to match the pics.. i have made this for others with this problem..
digitizer replacement
hello. I original got my wing with a broken LCD, I replaced it with no problems and it worked fine. I have since broken the glass on the digitizer. The digitizer glass from my old LCD was not broken, it is now that I tried to remove it from the broken LCD.
Also, there are two different types of digitizers. one the ribbon cable is on the right, the other is on the left. The LCD[with digitizer] I purchased had the ribbon cable for the digitizer on the opposite side. It worked great until I broke it.
So, my question is: If I purchase a digitizer from eBay, does it come with the glass or is it just the plastic digitizer itself?
Thank you in advance,
1LLvj
_Æ
The replacement digitizer off ebay works ONLY when I push the ribbon hard against the lcd screen ribbon where it attaches. What is the way to stick it that it connects and conducts power as it suppose to? I tried the taping method without success as noted by the 1st post.
Help please
1LLvj said:
So, my question is: If I purchase a digitizer from eBay, does it come with the glass or is it just the plastic digitizer itself?
Thank you in advance,
1LLvj
_Æ
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
They come with the glass, just be sure to get the GSM version, not the CDMA. I know this is late, but might help someone else if you've already done so.
xecutionkrk said:
The replacement digitizer off ebay works ONLY when I push the ribbon hard against the lcd screen ribbon where it attaches. What is the way to stick it that it connects and conducts power as it suppose to? I tried the taping method without success as noted by the 1st post.
Help please
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Solder it... but you've pointed out that you can't or won't do this already. I don't know of any electrically conductive glues (especially trying to glue the ribbon cable in place without shorting itself out)
I want to replace cracked screed with new LCD with digitizer and went thru service manual. I am struck at the point where I have to remove antenna cover before I can go ahead. Can somebody please help. I am from small town in India with no service centre. Got new original LCD with digitizer via ebay.
amit200465 said:
I want to replace cracked screed with new LCD with digitizer and went thru service manual. I am struck at the point where I have to remove antenna cover before I can go ahead. Can somebody please help. I am from small town in India with no service centre. Got new original LCD with digitizer via ebay.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That is a real hard peace of work an the possibility to destroy the device completely is quite high. Heres another thread:
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?p=3807619#post3807619
Thanks for the link but not sure where to insert the flat plastic tool on over the USB socket or below it. Please help
Victory, I managed to sucessfully repair my HD today.
Parts needed:
Digitizer ~ € 25, --
LCD Display ~ € 74, --
------------------------
Total: € 99, --
Time: ~ 3 hours
Difficulty: high
Special precautions:
After complete dissembling the HD according to the service Manual you can find in the net you will have to lever the display out of the front bezel from the front side. It is very likely the color and the frame will be damaged a bit! It's best to use a fairly broad plastic "spatula" and lever the display out. It should be noted that the glas of the digitizer is glued to the LCD display so it is very unlikely to repair the HD in case of a broken front glas by only changing the digitizer without changing the lcd display as well. This is unfortunate because digitizer is available very cheap (under € 30, -) over the Internet and usually only the glass of the digiziers breaks.
So who likes the risk and doesnt want to pay the horrendous costs of repair stalls here is the first case of a positive self-repair. PN if you want details. I am sorry but I have no pictures, because I repaired the HD at work and had no cam there.
Hard to replace LCD for touch hd
It is really very hard to replaced Lcd screen and digitilizer for touch HD.
I replaced mine last night for 3 hours. But before you start to separate the lcd from the case you must have a double sided tape for you to be able to return the lcd on the case. The tape will also serve as a sealant to your screen from dirt and to hold the screen on the housing.
Broken LCD
Yes, it's hard to change the digitizer.
I tried, I failed.
As my digitizer was broken (one can see a kind of watering effect, and no press effective anymore), I bought just the digitizer alone, without lcd screen.
12 € incl shipping. Nice price.
Here is what I received : cf. joined img 1248 (images are at the end, need moderator green light to do better. note : larger version available on frapi.com/vrac/cimg1248_rs.jpg.html (click on image for the others))
Seems OK. The plastic tool is bull**** (too soft to unclip the antenna)
With the help of the service manual, it wasn't so hard to dismantle it like that :
cf img 1251
Now the tricky part, level one :
you have to break apart digitzer+lcd+metal shield from the rest
cf img 1253
Be very careful when opening. try to lever only on the digitizer glass, that you will change anyway. You also have to unstick the metal shield under the LCD, because of the wiring there, attached to the digitizer :
cf img 1252
OK, done, you have that, digitizer+lcd :
cf img 1254
Now the tricky part, level two :
Split lcd from digitizer.
Just avoid doing that :
cf img 1257
cf img 1261
if you don't want to end like that :
cf img 1265
Don't ask, I don't have the recipe.
--
Frapi
PS : just bought a combo digitizer+lcd, quite more expensive. stay tuned
LCD manufacturer
Hello,
can anybody of you tell us the manufacturer of the display ? May I ask you to provide a readable picture of the labels behind the screen ? Or to write us the text on the labels ?
Many thanks, best regards Wolfgang
How do you fit the cable between the digitizer and lcd screen? Is it just a connector or do I have to solder it?
laban333 said:
How do you fit the cable between the digitizer and lcd screen? Is it just a connector or do I have to solder it?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
No soldering. digitizer to lcd board is clipsed.
--
Frapi
Bigger picture ?
Hello Frapipda,
may I ask you for a bigger picture of your thumpnail cimg1252_tn.jpg ?
If I can read the labels I would try to get a detailed specification of the display.
Many thanks, best regards Wolfgang
Hi all,
From the bottom is the lcd screen, after a black thing, and after is the digitizer glued on the top glass...
What is the name for the black transparent thing that goes between the screen and the digitizer? It is flexible but I accidentally made it to curve and now it has some marks inside.
frapipda said:
No soldering. digitizer to lcd board is clipsed.
--
Frapi
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Frapipda: You say its clipsed, but I cant manage to connect the tiny plastic digitizer contact with the lcd one. Do You have some advice?
I found out now. You have to lift one part of the contact...
frapipda said:
Yes, it's hard to change the digitizer.
Frapi
PS : just bought a combo digitizer+lcd, quite more expensive. stay tuned
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hi again,
Eventually bought a standalone LCD screen, came pretty quickly from HK (paid Friday nite, received today Wenesday in France).
was quite easy to install.
One tricky point :
LCD is glued on digitizer ; LCD position is paramount, and you have to insert the LCD in the phone body, then place the digitizer on the LCD, so that they are correctly positionned one to each other. If you don't, you won't be able to close the phone.
Phone is OK now
--
Frapi
got it today
I got the plastic tool, the torx screwdriver and the lcd+ digitizer for lessthat $20 cdn, i have exams going on so i will work on it over the weekend, will post with extreme details and possibly a video on HOW-TO change the digitizer!
osamaali, any luck yet?
lol
im not going to post a video because a major **** happened, due to lack of knowledge around on the net i should say this clearly that YOU HAVE TO PRY OPEN THE LCD SCREEN FROM THE FRONT! use a thin yet broad and strong object to go between the side wall and the screen and start pulling, i used a knife and cut all the way around before i started prying to cut the glue which is stronger than "Arnold" and all the dismantling from the back is to get to the chip where digitizer is plugged in.
when taking the screen off i took off the main screen, then the touch resistor screen and then the glass at the end (3 layers total). the glass is also stuck to the main "monitor" this is where the colors come from, i got impatient and pulled it hard enough that the monitor did not get time to detach.
i ordered the monitor lcd, im going to edit the video for final upload. sorry for the delay but everyone now know
YOU HAVE TO CUT AND PRY IT OPEN! if you guys get stuck pm me and i'll reply here. also i got the touchscreen to work but killed my monitor, i can still use the phone but the bottom 1 inch is blacked out.
GL HF!
Prying it open would only cause a mess, with broken glass falling. I like to work in a clean environment so i just get a hair dryer, switch it to high and do a figure 8 on the screen. Sure it takes quite a long time to get it off but trust me it comes off in one piece. The only problem i got now is putting the button on correctly. I aligned the buttons but once i put the lcd+digitizer on the buttons would get jammed or stuck. End call button is still clickable but the rest are jammed. PM me if you can help me or just email me at [email protected]
So I've been searching on ebay and it looks like they're not sure what they're selling..
I think they've sent me a LCD for my Euro version of HD2 with a T-mobile digitizer.
Does it look like LCD is euro version?
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Thanks
long time. i see no replies, and i am stuck with same problems here.
it seems you got a t mobile digitizer, socket type and a solder type lcd (not sure with the second one)
what did you do mate?
bid
bad.bid said:
long time. i see no replies, and i am stuck with same problems here.
it seems you got a t mobile digitizer, socket type and a solder type lcd (not sure with the second one)
what did you do mate?
bid
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Do you not have a TMOUS HD2 which is socket type !
If you have broken LCD when doing digi removal then you need a socket type LCD to pair with a socket type digi.
Complete lcd & digi with matching socket or solder will both work fine on any HD2 as the tail ribbon to mainboard is same on both but you can not cross match a socket & solder digi or LCD.
Mister B said:
Do you not have a TMOUS HD2 which is socket type !
If you have broken LCD when doing digi removal then you need a socket type LCD to pair with a socket type digi.
Complete lcd & digi with matching socket or solder will both work fine on any HD2 as the tail ribbon to mainboard is same on both but you can not cross match a socket & solder digi or LCD.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
So i finally took apart my HD2 without hurting the lcd. I have ordered the digitizer. I hope assembling is not much pain.
i read somewhere that after re assembling, sensors may not work right because the lenses on middle frame that cover them may get lost. i actually fear i have lost one. and one video said "remove all old tape" so many times that i scraped off almost anything, and after that i saw that the golden colored 'tape' was present in brand new middle frame too!!
I have attached photos, black arrow showing the position of the lens covering the sensor and white arrows showing the supposed tape that i removed half.
can someone confirm what things i messed up? maybe i need a middle frame too now?
Black arrow to small square hole should have a small clear stepped plastic lens that fits in the hole, if you been methodical you may find it in your work area if not you ideally need get one !
Also looks like you may of removed/damaged the black mesh for earpiece near this missing lens :-/
As for gold tape no idea if will cause any issues as never removed like you have, it is a shielding tape similar to what runs up edges of digi,l cd & centre chassis before disassembled & we get away without that !
Just use lots of care or things won't be much fun once rebuilt.
Most issue with sensors is idiots who block them with bad home made tape or shoddy assembly.
You will need a tape kit for digi & centre chassis (links in HD2 wiki)
Tape alone is not enough as none are as good as the factory tape. Ideally you need a small tube of black silicone adhesive such as PU40. You can use this sparingly down sides of new digi to lcd after first fixing it into position using tape, do make sure digitizer is positioned correctly on LCD as about 0.5mm out will cause button issues, do a dry run on buttons & lcd, digi function before building it up with adhesive. Use a few very small spots of silicone adhesive down sides of LCD (Make gaps in tape as needed) to centre chassis & near corners as without it the assembly will lift & not hold flush, with silicone adhesive (used sparingly & with thought) an OEM finish build is achievable & it remains that way without lifting in a corner or 2 ...
Care & care & more care is needed if first time on an HD2 as without it you will be lucky to have a usable device, good luck ...
This is the HTC Evo 4G take apart repair guide. Following this written repair guide will help you take apart your Evo 4G fairly easily in a step by step manner giving you a chance to replace faulty parts.
This guide will help you to install the following HTC EVO 4G part(s):
HTC EVO 4G LCD Screen Replacement Display
HTC EVO 4G Glass Touch Screen Digitizer
Tools Required:
Safe Open Pry Tool
Small Phillips Screwdriver
T5 Torx Screwdriver
Pair of Tweezers (optional)
Hot Air Gun / Hair Dryer (optional)
HTC EVO 4G Take apart repair guide:
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Figure 1
First of all remove the back cover (battery cover) of the phone using a safe open pry tool. Carefully insert the pry tool between the edge at the back of the phone as indicated by the arrows in figure 1 and pry the cover off. The battery cover should come off quite easily.
Figure 2
Remove the battery and the SD card from the phone as well. To remove the SD card you will need to pop the tab first at the location shown in figure 2 and then take out the SD card. You may use a pair of tweezers if you find it difficult to remove the memory card with your hand.
Now in order to remove the back-frame of the phone you will need to unscrew six Torx screws. Using a T5 Torx screwdriver, remove these six screws from the locations shown in the figure 2.
Figure 3
Once you have removed the screws you can carefully pry the back-frame off using safe open pry tool. Insert safe open pry tool between the edge that separates the frame and the body of the phone and run it along the sides to unclip the clips. The removed back-frame will look similar to the figure 3.
Figure 4
The next step is to remove the mainboard (logic board) from the unit. In order to remove the mainboard you will have to unscrew a Phillips screw first and then detach three ribbon cable connectors.
Remove the screw first using a small Phillips screwdriver from the location shown in the figure 4 by a small circle 1.
Disconnect the three ribbon cable connectors using safe open pry tool at the locations A, B and C in the figure 4.
Figure 5
The mainboard will now be released and you can take it off from the phone assembly and put it aside.
Lift out the camera from its location indicated by orange arrow in figure 5 and then carefully pry up the ribbon cable which will be glued at the back of LCD indicated by gray arrow in figure 5. Note that you need to lift up this cable from its colored end (which you have disconnected from the mainboard) and then pry it off from the back of LCD. Do not pull it off completely from the unit because it is a part of glass screen (touch screen digitizer).
Using a safe open pry tool, carefully pry up the front glass screen from the unit. Note that the glass screen will be adhered to the unit all along the sides with an adhesive material and you may have to use a hot air gun / hair-dryer before prying up the front glass screen.
After you have the glass screen digitizer completely pried off, gently lift it up from the unit because you will have to run the ribbon cable through the gap to completely separate it from the assembly.
The HTC EVO 4G is now disassembled and you can replace the damaged part(s) with new ones. Reverse the instructions above to reassemble your phone.
Good stuff bro! thanks! I am sure this will help many! its a great guide i just hope I never need to use it
stevovanburen said:
Good stuff bro! thanks! I am sure this will help many! its a great guide i just hope I never need to use it
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks for the support. Glad you found it useful!
i would like to add a couple notes after doing this myself.
1. the volume and power buttons come off real easy and are easily lost. do this work on a table and keep track of those buttons they really do just fall off.
2. sometimes the parts dont come with adhesive to glue sthe glass down and to keep dirt and stuff out. i used silicone for this.
3. the glass has 3 prongs attached to them, these also dont always come with the replacement part but come off the old one easy enough just try and keep some of the sticky stuff on them to "glue" them to new glass
4. use white gloves or latex gloves the new glass attracts dirt/fingerprints real easy and you dont wanna keep wiping it down
grrmisfit said:
i would like to add a couple notes after doing this myself.
1. the volume and power buttons come off real easy and are easily lost. do this work on a table and keep track of those buttons they really do just fall off.
2. sometimes the parts dont come with adhesive to glue sthe glass down and to keep dirt and stuff out. i used silicone for this.
3. the glass has 3 prongs attached to them, these also dont always come with the replacement part but come off the old one easy enough just try and keep some of the sticky stuff on them to "glue" them to new glass
4. use white gloves or latex gloves the new glass attracts dirt/fingerprints real easy and you dont wanna keep wiping it down
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Some nice tips, however....
Be VERY careful when using glue to attach the screen, not only can this damage the digitizer itself but it not the correct thickness to create the correct spacing between the glass and the LCD screen. Always use adhesive strips, NOT glue.
I'm having a problem after replacing my digitizer for the evo 4g. It boots and audio works fine, but the screen is completely white (no logo). I checked the ribbon cable for the LCD but it looks fine and is definitely connected all the way. Are there any other possibilities here?
Here are a couple of things you can try: make sure correct part was ordered, and check that all flex cables are securely locked in place.
Thanks this is going to help, now if I can figure out what screen to order with out having to take apart the phone...
repairsuniverse said:
Some nice tips, however....
Be VERY careful when using glue to attach the screen, not only can this damage the digitizer itself but it not the correct thickness to create the correct spacing between the glass and the LCD screen. Always use adhesive strips, NOT glue.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I found that out the hard way lol... I used some bonding glue that was all bad, not to mention the spacing was off by a few hairs... But I'm still trying to find the right adhesive strips..
kevo3000 said:
I found that out the hard way lol... I used some bonding glue that was all bad, not to mention the spacing was off by a few hairs... But I'm still trying to find the right adhesive strips..
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes. ALWAYS use adhesive strips. NOT glue. Glue can not only damage the digitizer, but even if it doesn't you will not get the correct thickness between the LCD and glass.
You can find the right thickness adhesive strips here - Adhesive strips for touch screens
Whatever you do, make sure you dont accidentally scrape the LCD screen, super tiny nick resulted in this:
https://dl.dropbox.com/u/10726414/IMAG0534.jpg
Hey guys
I'm having this issue where the LCD I ordered doesn't fit correctly inside the seat, making it so the glass wont snap in. I can get the top part in, but then the bottom is too high up. I've tried using force, but I know that is a really bad idea. Any ideas? I've got a feeling they sent me an incompatible screen. Although, I did boot the phone while it was connected, and confirmed it to be working just fine.
The HTC EVO 4G has multiple screens. Make sure you ordered the correct screen for this device.
stinky634 said:
Whatever you do, make sure you dont accidentally scrape the LCD screen, super tiny nick resulted in this:
https://dl.dropbox.com/u/10726414/IMAG0534.jpg
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yep had that happen twice, I also noticed that black LCD film is like those expensive camera lens's where when you touch them, fingerprints, smudges, lint, dust, then they are no good any more!
Be sure to check out our Evo 4G video repair guide which can be used in correlation with this written repair guide.
htc evo 4g
hey
i used this guide to swap a cracked digitizer on a htc evo 4g , everything went well but when i rebooted the phone the screen is slugish to unresponsive its very difficult to get it to unlock and the calibration on the keyboard tool did nothing to help fix it
ive ordered a second digitizer to try swapping that but its not in yet ,
any thoughts ?/
Great Guide . Thank you.
TEAM MiK
MikROMs Since 3/13/11
Is there another way of determining the LCD type on the HTC Evo 4G without disassembling my phone?
very good. thanks.
repairsuniverse said:
This is the HTC Evo 4G take apart repair guide. Following this written repair guide will help you take apart your Evo 4G fairly easily in a step by step manner giving you a chance to replace faulty parts.
This guide will help you to install the following HTC EVO 4G part(s):
HTC EVO 4G LCD Screen Replacement Display
HTC EVO 4G Glass Touch Screen Digitizer
Tools Required:
Safe Open Pry Tool
Small Phillips Screwdriver
T5 Torx Screwdriver
Pair of Tweezers (optional)
Hot Air Gun / Hair Dryer (optional)
HTC EVO 4G Take apart repair guide:
Figure 1
First of all remove the back cover (battery cover) of the phone using a safe open pry tool. Carefully insert the pry tool between the edge at the back of the phone as indicated by the arrows in figure 1 and pry the cover off. The battery cover should come off quite easily.
Figure 2
Remove the battery and the SD card from the phone as well. To remove the SD card you will need to pop the tab first at the location shown in figure 2 and then take out the SD card. You may use a pair of tweezers if you find it difficult to remove the memory card with your hand.
Now in order to remove the back-frame of the phone you will need to unscrew six Torx screws. Using a T5 Torx screwdriver, remove these six screws from the locations shown in the figure 2.
Figure 3
Once you have removed the screws you can carefully pry the back-frame off using safe open pry tool. Insert safe open pry tool between the edge that separates the frame and the body of the phone and run it along the sides to unclip the clips. The removed back-frame will look similar to the figure 3.
Figure 4
The next step is to remove the mainboard (logic board) from the unit. In order to remove the mainboard you will have to unscrew a Phillips screw first and then detach three ribbon cable connectors.
Remove the screw first using a small Phillips screwdriver from the location shown in the figure 4 by a small circle 1.
Disconnect the three ribbon cable connectors using safe open pry tool at the locations A, B and C in the figure 4.
Figure 5
The mainboard will now be released and you can take it off from the phone assembly and put it aside.
Lift out the camera from its location indicated by orange arrow in figure 5 and then carefully pry up the ribbon cable which will be glued at the back of LCD indicated by gray arrow in figure 5. Note that you need to lift up this cable from its colored end (which you have disconnected from the mainboard) and then pry it off from the back of LCD. Do not pull it off completely from the unit because it is a part of glass screen (touch screen digitizer).
Using a safe open pry tool, carefully pry up the front glass screen from the unit. Note that the glass screen will be adhered to the unit all along the sides with an adhesive material and you may have to use a hot air gun / hair-dryer before prying up the front glass screen.
After you have the glass screen digitizer completely pried off, gently lift it up from the unit because you will have to run the ribbon cable through the gap to completely separate it from the assembly.
The HTC EVO 4G is now disassembled and you can replace the damaged part(s) with new ones. Reverse the instructions above to reassemble your phone.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You're welcome!