Database Users

Cause & Possible Fixes for Whitescreen + D-Pad failures (a new thing to try)

First, it'd like to thank
MikeChannon
for pointing out something important that narrowed down my testing.
Now, onto the problem Symptoms :
- D-Pad, IE and Email buttons cease to work
- Screen fades to white or comes back from standby as white
- Display is slight disaligned to the side, 1mm of left appears on right side.
- Randomness in all above symptoms.
Cause : It is the D-Pad connector.
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Yes, the D-Pad connection DOES cause the whitescreen. It's odd and illogical, but this is the conclusion I have reached.
ALL the previous guides, such as sliding plastic between the screen and casing, were randomly moving things inside.
By CHANCE ONLY it'd affect the D-Pad connector positively. That is why such solutions only worked for a few people temporarely.
SOLUTION :
You will need to try variants of the following things :
- Tightness of the screws over the connector
- Disconnecting the plug and reconnecting it very carefully
- Pressure over the bibbon between the D-Pad connector and the screen.
- Pressure over the D-Pad connector itself
- Tightness of the screws over the D-Pad PCD
- Tightness of the screws closing the plastic casing of this part of the phone
To stress-test the variants, I ran a D-Pad intensive game (Skyforce) for 30 minutes or until the symptoms came back.
I've played around with all those, giving mixed results, but definitively making a difference.
My final and best result was by putting a thin foam piece over the blue parts in the picture below. (Ignore the red circles, original picture is taken from a website)
The foam I used was the typical foam sheets you find in packaging for fragile electronics such as motherboards, hard drives, graphic cards etc. It has to be super thing in other to close the casing without buldges.
There isn't a specific thing you can do that will make your D-Pad be reliable and the whitescreen to go away. You'll have to do several tests, so I recommend you keep your phone disassembled while testing. The connector is VERY VERY SENSITIVE. That is why I cannot be any more precise in how to fix this. However, you NOW KNOW what causes the screen to freak out and buttons to stop working.
What I did for testing :
I have tested my phone while it was completely disassembled. Meaning I had the back of the monitor open, as seen in the picture above.
That way, I could fiddle around and instantly test the result.
I've fiddle with the cables, the screen pressure, everything. Nothing returned the screen from being white or becoming white.
Putting pressure D-Pad connector's ribbon or actual pin caused the screen to either turn on white, or fade to white. (Results often noticed only after going in & out of standby)
It also caused my D-Pad buttons and the top 2 buttons (IE & Email) to either work or not work.

Oh and this is my testing setup. Elastic band to hold the battery in place, everything else opened. However, I had to place/remove the backcover of the screen part of the phone to test as it affects the pressure put on the connector.

wow. I don't have balls to break apart my 8525 like that.

mutantblack said:
wow. I don't have balls to break apart my 8525 like that.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Well this fix is for those who got a big enough problem and can't return it under warranty.
Anyhow, taking apart the TyTN is quite simple, and the thing is sturdy.
Only and only the D-Pad connector is tricky. The big ribbon connecting the two halfs of the phone is quite solid and never caused problems.

guys... what/where can i get the screw driver to open this mofo... it looks like a hex allen wrench but that doesnt work...
i have had this issue for months now and will try anything to fix it but i need to know where i can get this screw driver and fast!!!!

So it is a problem with the connector itself or cause by flex in the cable?
Also, where are you putty pressure on the connector? Are you saying if the screws are too tight this is a problem as well.

jwagman1 said:
guys... what/where can i get the screw driver to open this mofo... it looks like a hex allen wrench but that doesnt work...
i have had this issue for months now and will try anything to fix it but i need to know where i can get this screw driver and fast!!!!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It's a TORX No6 screwdriver you need. Available online or from stores like Maplin who sell Phone screwdriver sets.
Check out links in the Wiki here or in my signature for internal pics, dismantling guides and to download the service manual (that also has a dismantling walkthrough)
Mike

Vasichko said:
So it is a problem with the connector itself or cause by flex in the cable?
Also, where are you putty pressure on the connector? Are you saying if the screws are too tight this is a problem as well.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Seems to me there may be a bit of trial and error regarding the fix. The service manual points out that the d-pad connector must be precisely inserted and absolutely level. So both under-tightening the screws or over-tightening could distort the connection. If you have it apart, take out and reconnect the push in connector several times This helps to ensure there is no oxidisation on the contacts.
(PS. this is not my fix so I cannot testify that it will work for you, though I believe it is on the right track, at least for some cases of this problem)
Mike

It's really intersting to know I'm not alone to have this issue ...
Do you have a site who describe how to open the Hermes ?
Thanks

mikechannon said:
It's a TORX No6 screwdriver you need. Available online or from stores like Maplin who sell Phone screwdriver sets.
Check out links in the Wiki here or in my signature for internal pics, dismantling guides and to download the service manual (that also has a dismantling walkthrough)
Mike
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
THANK YOU!! amazon.com overnight!!! woooo

I tried this diy.
I didnt have a small enough phillips to remove the screws from the connector on the D-Pad.
Know where I can get one?
So I took all the connections, put some automotive electronic connection cleaner on a q-tip and cleaned all of the other ones.
I used some automotive light double sided adhesive that you can get at Auto Zone instead of form. I only used 1 side of the adhesive and didnt peal the other side off, if it doesnt work, its easily removeable, just wanted to make sure it stays in place when I re-assemble the phone.
I also added some in a place you didnt which I show in yellow on your photo.
So far so good after 5 minutes.

Mine PDA was also totally disassembled and atleast in my device the problem wasn't a faulty connector.. I had the front panel off and when I squeezed the Xilinx fpga-chip(black square on d-pad circuitboard) the the screen worked fine -when i took my fingers off it faded back to white. Earlier I also tried re-soldering the connector but it didnt work on my device.

marciton said:
It's really intersting to know I'm not alone to have this issue ...
Do you have a site who describe how to open the Hermes ?
Thanks
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Dismantling guides and the service manual:
www.mikechannon.net
Mike

Hermes / TyTn / 8525 White Screen
Hey guy,
Nice write-up.
Good that someone has taken the time to experiment with different procedures.
I gave up on mine, after taking it apart time and time again.
-Reseating the cables and completely disassembling the unit was a tempereary fix, so I sold it on eBay for a parts / repair.
I just purchased another on eBay.
This time, instead of getting worked up about the white screen of death, I had purchased a warranty from www.squaretrade.com.
I am not an AT&T customer, so I unlocked the phone.
Neither AT&T or HTC can help when you dont have their service , or it's a branded phone.
Keep up the good work.

So far since my post before lunch today. No problems at all.
It used to white out when taking a picture with the camera, randomly when sliding out the keyboard, randomly when using the D-Pad.
No problems at all today after doing this fix posted here and adding the extra pad that I did.

im gonna have to try this when i get my new housing....anyone know where i can get a front camera?

Just giving another update. So far so good, no problems at all.
DPad no longer has the issue of not working here and there.
White screen issues appear to be gone.
Hopefully for good.
I will still post updates so you all can know the status.
Thx again for the right up. I will post some pics of the type of tape I used as well.

I have the rest of december left on my warranty. Do you guys think PPCtechs will know how to fix this? i don't want to send it to them and have it sent back with the same probs (like they did last time i sent it in to get my scroll wheel and camera lense repaired).

Miguel- said:
Mine PDA was also totally disassembled and atleast in my device the problem wasn't a faulty connector.. I had the front panel off and when I squeezed the Xilinx fpga-chip(black square on d-pad circuitboard) the the screen worked fine -when i took my fingers off it faded back to white. Earlier I also tried re-soldering the connector but it didnt work on my device.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes indeed, re-aligning and reconnecting the connector works for many but will not work for all. There are, as you say instances where it is a chip connection that's at fault. There is little if anything you can do with that problem other than board replacement unless you have the correct tools - http://forum.xda-developers.com/showpost.php?p=1724236&postcount=66
Mike

It looks to be a design flaw. I dropped my maybe 3ft on the carpet yesterday and got the white screen issue. I took apart and looked at the connector in question. Even with it screwed in you can unplug it half way. So I added some more padding.
I think part of the problem is that coming from the back of the LCD to the DPad board or whatever you call it, the angle of the ribbon cable declines.

[Q] A Question about fixing the HD2 digitizer

So I have a near flawless screen on my HD2, but I have that issue where using the end call button messes up the responsiveness of my screen. I just normally avoid using that button by using a screen off widget, but it's a pain when I want to flash new things. I don't want to pay the $80 to have it professionally repaired, that's too much for a 2 year old device. I'm wondering, is it possible to just take the screen off of the HD2,put the loose cable securely back in place, and then put the screen back? That would save me some time and money if it is, but I don't want to try it unless I'm [somewhat] sure it'll work. Any suggestions are welcome.

from my experence it can be 2 things:
actual endkey button/flexboard fault or the digitizer ribbon.
either fault requires parts & in the case of the digitizer ribbon that requires digitizer panel & an LCD if you not careful & a flexboard if you really don't take care ...

Well I have a friend who's really good with this stuff, and he said he'd fix it if I get the neccessary parts. So if I buy the OEM digitizer from Amazon [ $20 ], would he just need to take out my current one and put that one in? Or is there more to it than just the digitizer?

I had one of this problem before. What I ended up doing was just remapping the power button to the green call button.
Use keynumbertracker to find out what key number the power button is, and then use buttonremapper to change the function from Call to Power

Basically if it is digitizer flex cable issue then yes you just fit this part.
Removal of digitizer is not that easy & bonding the new digitizer to be dust proof, correct offset from LCD & correct overhang position is critical, failure by fraction of a milimeter result in button pad not working, assembly not fitting, Digi sitting higher than casing ect ect.
Extreme care needs to be taken opening these devices up or you will have A new digi but a pile of scrap to stick it too.
You will also need to know what type of digi you have: 295 solder assembly or the better 300 socket plug assembly.
They can be interchanged as LCD & Digi but if replacing just one then they must match.
You will also need 3M tape thin & padded, super glue & perhaps a little PU40 adhesive or similar adhesive silicone.

Xeroday said:
I had one of this problem before. What I ended up doing was just remapping the power button to the green call button.
Use keynumbertracker to find out what key number the power button is, and then use buttonremapper to change the function from Call to Power
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I would normally use the soft keys in ICS to avoid using the buttons at all, and that works just fine. However, I still can't flash new ROMs or anything else flashable without holding down the end call button reduces my flashing greatly. Also, the screen is just not responding at all the past few days, otherwise I'd be happy with just using soft keys.
Mister B said:
Basically if it is digitizer flex cable issue then yes you just fit this part.
Removal of digitizer is not that easy & bonding the new digitizer to be dust proof, correct offset from LCD & correct overhang position is critical, failure by fraction of a milimeter result in button pad not working, assembly not fitting, Digi sitting higher than casing ect ect.
Extreme care needs to be taken opening these devices up or you will have A new digi but a pile of scrap to stick it too.
You will also need to know what type of digi you have: 295 solder assembly or the better 300 socket plug assembly.
They can be interchanged as LCD & Digi but if replacing just one then they must match.
You will also need 3M tape thin & padded, super glue & perhaps a little PU40 adhesive or similar adhesive silicone.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Oh, I have the T-mobile version by the way..that one doesn't require soldering, does it?
Okay, so just to clarify [ sorry for my confusion, I just wanna make sure I get it right!]
So if the problem is just with the flex cable, to fix it I have to
1. take apart the screen from the main body, and reconnect the cable?
or
2. Buy a new digitizer, take out the old one, put the new one in?
Thank you so much for your assistance by the way. I wanted to use my HD2 until June of next year [ when I graduate] and finally get a new phone then, but the screen issues were making me think about giving in and getting a new phone now. If I can fix this, I'll be happy with my HD2 for a while longer!

If T-Mobile US (TMOUS) then it will have 300 type & be connecter plug.
Digitizer with flex should fix problem.
Worth dismantling first because if you crack LCD for example you would then best buy LCD & Digi assembly pre assembled as one unit.
Good repair with just Digi is possible but you will need to take exreme care in dismantling & assembling to get it working well & cosmetically pleasing ...
Good luck ...

Make sure to heat up your lcd/digitizer assembly with a hair dryer until the glue is soft, otherwise you will crack the lcd when you seperate the lcd and digitizer..

e334 said:
Make sure to heat up your lcd/digitizer assembly with a hair dryer until the glue is soft, otherwise you will crack the lcd when you seperate the lcd and digitizer..
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'm currently working on it [well my friend is]. I just recieved the parts in the mail today. However, could you tell me what this is?
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The backside (under metallic cover) of a (IMO, broken/unusable_anymore) LCD!

bib*oops said:
The backside (under metallic cover) of a (IMO, broken/unusable_anymore) LCD!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Ouch! I guess I'll be buying a new one now.
Ah, this would've all been so much easier to take to a store to repair for me. It probably would've been worth the extra $20 it would've cost, but I guess this is a good learning experience for me to not attempt self repair again!

Button remap on Mango
I'm having a similar digitizer problem. HD2 is two years old and I'd prefer not to send it in AGAIN. How do I do a button remap on Mango 7.5 to swap the power/screen lock button and avoid the issue?

turizzmo said:
I'm having a similar digitizer problem. HD2 is two years old and I'd prefer not to send it in AGAIN. How do I do a button remap on Mango 7.5 to swap the power/screen lock button and avoid the issue?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
As of now there isn't a button remap for Mango that can fix the problem. I looked around for one, but you can only remap certain buttons. If you want to remap the power button, you've to to use an older version of WP7, I believe. [That's what kept me from using it; I wanted to use Mango, but not without button remapping]

Mister B said:
If T-Mobile US (TMOUS) then it will have 300 type & be connecter plug.
Digitizer with flex should fix problem.
Worth dismantling first because if you crack LCD for example you would then best buy LCD & Digi assembly pre assembled as one unit.
Good repair with just Digi is possible but you will need to take exreme care in dismantling & assembling to get it working well & cosmetically pleasing ...
Good luck ...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hey, I've got just one more question. So I had ordered the LCD and digitizer separately [ I don't know why, I wasn't thinking straight], and while I got the correct digitizer, the LCD was wrong; it was labeled as being usable with the HD2, but I think it was meant only for the EVO. Anyways, I returned both of those to Amazon just in time to get a refund, and now am going to order the LCD+digitizer pre-assembled together. Would this one work?
http://www.amazon.com/HTC-HD2-DIGIT...DSM0/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1332640698&sr=8-1
It says for the TMOUS HD2, so I assume yes, I just wanted to make absolutely sure so I don't have to return again. I was worried at first about the low rating, but that turns out it was because out of the 2 ratings it has, one was because a Dominican guy ordered it and it was not for the non-US HD2.

The one you are linking to in Amazon is a 295 solder type.
get the 300 type & be 100% sure it is pre assembled as one piece.
link below is 300type all pre assembled with good P&P handling ...
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/300556391393

Mister B said:
The one you are linking to in Amazon is a 295 solder type.
get the 300 type & be 100% sure it is pre assembled as one piece.
link below is 300type all pre assembled with good P&P handling ...
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/300556391393
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks for pointing that out, I was about to order that piece but didn't. I am going to get this one-
http://www.ebay.com/itm/T-mobile-LC...ltDomain_0&hash=item4161c8b8fa#ht_2320wt_1052
[ I couldn't use the link you provided me as I'm in the US, but this one should be the same piece]

Should be ok, it is the correct 300 type. I would confirm if lcd & digi are already bonded as many are not.
pre bonded will save you a job & will be better than you can achieve.
buying this pre assembled just leaves you to stick it to the inner chassis which is not too hard with good quality thin 3M tape & a little PU40 adhesive near corners & a spot on edges near centre (3M tape on its own is not good enough) ...

I think it's pre-bonded, but I'll ask the seller to confirm. I already have this tape-
http://www.amazon.com/Adhesive-Stic...QW3U/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1332778955&sr=8-2
So just use some PU40 [I have some of that also] to attach and this will be good?

That is the sort of tape you would use for lcd to Digi.
For LCD/Digi assembly to chassis you want a wider thin 3M tape for mounting points behind LCD, you also will need some black foam type 3M tape cut to shape & with holes for sensors ect for the top & bottom of digi glass contact to plastic parts of chassis.
Keeping the LCD to chassis bonding thin is a critical must as too thick ends with digi glass raised higher than back panel suround edging.
I used thin 3M tape applied to back of LCD & duplicated on chassis & left corners free & central edge of chassis free for spots of PU40 as 3M alone does not hold long term & you will see screen raising in corners or moving/flexing under use ...
Had a work college who had his screen replaced & used 3M, was ok in our warm climate but one trip to icy/damp east Europe & screen assmembly became loose & was lifting & button pad was loose & hard to use.
Hardly any of the aftermarket 3M is equal to factory strenth & rebonding needs to better really on rebuild to keep screen flush as possible & assembly firmly bonded as one.
His unit was first for my PU40 & thin tape 3M method & besides better bonding it also gave almost perfect digi hight to back cover edges as his original padded tape made it raised about 1mm too much ...
worth noting many aftermarket screen/digi assemblys are slightly thicker than standard factory so thin 3M on chassis bonding balances this out.

Could you give me a link to PU40 glue? I Googled it, but can't seem to find it. Do you know if it is similar to E3000 glue also? I have quite a bit of that, so if they are interchangeable I will be set to *finally* get my HD2 together again once the piece comes in.
E3000 glue - http://catalogue.3m.eu/en_EU/EU-IAT...crylate_Adhesive~E3000/Cyanoacrylate_Adhesive

Motorola Atrix 4G Screen Take Apart Repair Guide

This guide is in a step by step format and can easily be followed for a quick and safe repair for Motorola Atrix 4G. This guide will go through the steps of disassembling and replacing the touch screen digitizer as well as the LCD screen.
This guide will help you to install the following Motorola Atrix part(s):
Motorola Atrix Glass Touch Screen Digitizer
Motorola Atrix LCD Screen
Tools Required:
Adhesive Strips
T5 Torx Screwdriver
Hot Air Gun / Hair Dryer (optional)
Motorola Atrix 4G take apart guide:
The first step to disassembling the phone is to remove the back battery cover and battery as well as the sim card and memory card. You can now remove the seven torx T5 screws located behind the battery cover. With the screws removed you can now use a safe open pry tool to release the clips and flip the back housing over to the side, careful of the antenna cable still attached.
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Figure 1​
Use a safe open pry tool to pop the antenna cable from the motherboard and remove the back housing. Pry the motherboard up using a safe open pry tool and release the 3 flex cables underneath. Two will be pop connectors and the third is a jaw/alligator connector. Once reassessed you can now safely remove the motherboard.
Figure 2​
Warm the front of the touch screen and LCD screen using a heat gun or hair dryer. Use a pry tool to slowly pry between the touch screen and rest of the phone, careful as it is still attached with a flex cable. Flip the phone over and release the pop connector and top cover.
Ease up the flex ribbon cable and also the earpiece speaker. You can also remove the black plastic and the black plastic bar.
Figure 3​
You can now feed the touch screen flex cable through the housing and replace the digitizer.
Simply replace the damaged parts with the new ones and reverse the order to put your phone back together again.

Thanks for posting that. I've already replaced mine but this is as good a guide as the video that I watched. It's as easy to do as it reads. I used some locking forceps to install the third ribbon cable into the jaw connector.
Nice of you to post this guide. Not to mention, I think that it's a really classy way to respond to something said elsewhere without actually calling it out. Nice form on all counts.

Will this fix the general touch screen problem , most of the Atrix devices have.
ie.Not being able to select the first item in the men , etc

devgayan said:
Will this fix the general touch screen problem , most of the Atrix devices have.
ie.Not being able to select the first item in the men , etc
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes, replacing the touch screen would fix these kind of issues.

Soft buttons
What about the lower soft buttons not working, would the replacement of this digitizer solve that issue too?

Great post! Thanks for the information.

Getch78 said:
Great post! Thanks for the information.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks. Glad you found it useful.

I bought two screen from Amazon, non of them are fully functional......

repairuniverse, could you shed some light on the "soft buttons" issue please? Mine just stopped working and I'm thinking to replace it myself...
Thanks in advance.

rafaelbrandao said:
repairuniverse, could you shed some light on the "soft buttons" issue please? Mine just stopped working and I'm thinking to replace it myself...
Thanks in advance.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The "soft" buttons you refer to are part of the touch screen digitizer. Replacing this part should fix your issue.

Just replaced my digitizer...was a pain in the ass but it worked. Still need to get some tape for the screen though...really hard to put on when you can't really move the screen.

Sorry to hear you had a bit of trouble. The repair is normally pretty straight forward. Glad you got it working though.
What do you mean when you are referring to "Still needing tape" ?

Any videos on this?
PS: scratch that...
check this out:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kxuF_73YIIY

repairsuniverse said:
Sorry to hear you had a bit of trouble. The repair is normally pretty straight forward. Glad you got it working though.
What do you mean when you are referring to "Still needing tape" ?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I didn't use any tape under the screen because I didn't have any good one. I ordered some double sided tape on eBay.
Will have to take it all apart again and restart by putting the tape first, then the digitizer cable through the hole, then the LCD, and finally the digitizer...that's why its a pain.
Sent from my MB860 using XDA

What kind of tape is needed, if any? I see a screen replacement in my near future and want to make sure I have everything before I start.
Sent from my MB860 using XDA

nsaia said:
What kind of tape is needed, if any? I see a screen replacement in my near future and want to make sure I have everything before I start.
Sent from my MB860 using XDA
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
2 mm double sided
Sent from my MB860 using XDA

We provide adhesive tape used for these repairs on our site. Great question!

I'm having an issue with my proximity sensor. It doesn't seem to respond all the time and its on the "block state"...so when I place a call the phone goes black. If I press on the top of the phone near the sensor, it starts working for a couple minutes, and then goes black again.
Any ideas? Did I block something (don't think so)? Bad connection somewhere?

Nice guide. I was just looking to clean my front facing camera, so this will work great for that

Zero-K said:
Nice guide. I was just looking to clean my front facing camera, so this will work great for that
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Glad we could help!

LG G2 Problem after screen replace

Hello Friends,
Ive got an quetion about my G2. My screen and LCD are broken. as you can see below.
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As you can see both are broke. So i bought an brand new LG G2 Display unit (fully assembled.)
After the replacement my problem is still there? Can somebody of you tell me what's wrong?
Kind regards!

Nobody?!?

Connector/PCB damage, maybe?

benjamin94 said:
Hello Friends,
Ive got an quetion about my G2. My screen and LCD are broken. as you can see below.
As you can see both are broke. So i bought an brand new LG G2 Display unit (fully assembled.)
After the replacement my problem is still there? Can somebody of you tell me what's wrong?
Kind regards!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I just replaced mine and got the same results... before this the digitizer was broken but the display was still perfect. All ribbons seem to be connected properly, no visible damage...

get a different lcd. Be very careful not to put any pressure on the screen when putting it together. I don't even tape mine in. I destroyed the lcd once with just light pressure putting the back of the phone on and the digitizer was still good. Luckily I had accidently ordered 2 screens so my second one I was more careful.

LG G2 broken after replacing screen
I just had the same problem, I don't think it's an issue with the screens, I think it's an issue with the video card or something.. I had bad digitizer, I first replaced just the digitizer as my LCD was fine, new digitizer had dead spot and I accidentally poked a hole in LCD. Had the black oooozz all over, but still worked and could see what you're doing, do I bought a assembled LCD, digitizer, and glass.. Replaced it and got a bunch of colored dots, put old screen back on, and it's now showing bunch of dots. I did notice I'm missing a pin on the phone's connector for LCD, not sure if it broke out when disconnecting old LCD or if it's supposed to be missing.
Did anyone get theirs fixed with me LCD or is the problem else where?
I noticed the internals were very similar to nexus 5, do they use same LCD or she connector, anything compatible there? I bent, wiggled, cracked old LCD and it still worked besides the black ooz, until I connected new assembly, so I'm thinking these LCD's are pretty durable and pressure on them didn't cause this issue.
Edit... Just looked up photo of connector, all pins are there.. Mine is missing 5th pin in from the right.. On bottom row..
Another edit...
I found the missing pin on my table, tiny thing, inserted it to connector, tossed a tad of silver solder on it,reconnected LCD ,works flawless!

Same issue
I have the same problem ( Color dots), so you solved by reconnecting all screen connectors? I really don't know what to do.
urhaxable said:
I just had the same problem, I don't think it's an issue with the screens, I think it's an issue with the video card or something.. I had bad digitizer, I first replaced just the digitizer as my LCD was fine, new digitizer had dead spot and I accidentally poked a hole in LCD. Had the black oooozz all over, but still worked and could see what you're doing, do I bought a assembled LCD, digitizer, and glass.. Replaced it and got a bunch of colored dots, put old screen back on, and it's now showing bunch of dots. I did notice I'm missing a pin on the phone's connector for LCD, not sure if it broke out when disconnecting old LCD or if it's supposed to be missing.
Did anyone get theirs fixed with me LCD or is the problem else where?
I noticed the internals were very similar to nexus 5, do they use same LCD or she connector, anything compatible there? I bent, wiggled, cracked old LCD and it still worked besides the black ooz, until I connected new assembly, so I'm thinking these LCD's are pretty durable and pressure on them didn't cause this issue.
Edit... Just looked up photo of connector, all pins are there.. Mine is missing 5th pin in from the right.. On bottom row..
Another edit...
I found the missing pin on my table, tiny thing, inserted it to connector, tossed a tad of silver solder on it,reconnected LCD ,works flawless!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse

hi
you bought an original piece? purchased online or at any physical store? apparently your problem is in the connectors, however we can classify your new screen as a low quality product.

Same problem
Hello!
I have a same problem with lg g2. I changed the broken touch and after my screen shows only pixels. I tried to change completly the lcd and the touch and nothing the second lcd shows the same.After that I changed the flat cable between the main board and lcd and again nothing.Nowhere no damage, dont have any missing pin or part, but no picture only pixels.
Any solution?
Best regards!

sonorecords said:
Hello!
I have a same problem with lg g2. I changed the broken touch and after my screen shows only pixels. I tried to change completly the lcd and the touch and nothing the second lcd shows the same.After that I changed the flat cable between the main board and lcd and again nothing.Nowhere no damage, dont have any missing pin or part, but no picture only pixels.
Any solution?
Best regards!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Maybe the problem is with the motherboard,
I'd suggest go to a repair shop, so they can test your motherboard on a different screen (for free i hope), to see if the problem is: Flex? Screen? or motherboard?

Did anyone figure this out cause I'm getting the same thing on mine with two new screens and no loose connectors?

Just replace my screen, purchased a part on ebay, the phone boots ok, can see the image and the touch is working but I got a extrange problem when you hit the power button to lock the screen and try to get up back again he screen turns one and after a second shows a white screen then a dimming until it turn off, the only way to see the image again is making a hard turn off and turn it back again, my phone is a sprint model ls980, any idea what happen??? Thanks

janocool said:
Just replace my screen, purchased a part on ebay, the phone boots ok, can see the image and the touch is working but I got a extrange problem when you hit the power button to lock the screen and try to get up back again he screen turns one and after a second shows a white screen then a dimming until it turn off, the only way to see the image again is making a hard turn off and turn it back again, my phone is a sprint model ls980, any idea what happen??? Thanks
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have the same problem with mine I pretty much have to leave the screen on or restart whenever I want to use it
Sent from my LG-D800 using Tapatalk

I have a probleme with the replacement screen, we replace not just a lcd and the digitizer, part of lcd with frame. I buyed this from England. After the replace i can't turn on the screen many times, but the background lighting working and the touch/digitizer too. I press the power button once turned on, not once. We disassemle much more and testing the power button, we found nothing, we connect once more the LCD connector on the PCB, nothing.
Have you idea, what can I do more?

The problem is with the software so the rom not support the screen from china I found only one what can support on my device its the 80220b stock what is working, how ever I didn't find any other solution jet. If anyone has an idea to solve I vill be happy

dslacks said:
I have the same problem with mine I pretty much have to leave the screen on or restart whenever I want to use it
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Try flashing cloudy fa kernel

LCD issues as well as sound
There are two different screens that I have found. I have the ls980 and had this problem with the LCD after three screens brand new. There are two types of connectors for the LCD cable I can post pictures tomorrow. A lot of manufacture or Leo's on a.azon think a g2 screen is a g2 screen but it's not. Ls980 d800 as far as I know have the same connector so make sure the screen your getting is for your phone that will fix any LCD issues as well as sound issues.

P9000 Disassembly (I broke it)

So I dropped my phone and broke the front glass. LCD works but not touch-screen so pretty much useless. I decided to take it apart first to see how hard it would be to replace the screen as I could see screens can be bought from AliExpress for about 65 USD or 99 USD from elephone.hk.
Took some pictures along the way as I couldn't find any images of the internals of this phone online so this might help someone trying to replace their screen or just thinking about it.
1) Back cover - this comes off rather easily once you get something between the edge and start nudging the clips to open. Notice that the whole back cover is glued a bit to the battery so even after getting all the edges open I still had to use some force to remove it from the battery. PS: The side-buttons are attached to the cover also so try not to hurt those while removing the back.
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2) Next I removed the bottom half cover to see if I could access the screen cables from there. Notice that the black ribbon that goes to the screen is the home button LED light and cannot be removed without unsoldering it!
3) I took off the top cover and unhooked the battery.
4) The battery - It's glued to the metal frame using 2 strips of glue and it took me 10 minutes to get it out safely without damaging it (it's soft so you can probably easily make it explode in your hands).
5) Took me some thinking but I removed the whole main board. The bottom side is glued and I had to break some black "paper" to get it out.
6) Screen - After getting the main board out I had enough room to force the screen out. Notice that the screen is glued from the top and bottom but sides are not glued. Some sensor cable from the front panel is glued to the camera's LED lights. The speaker was a bit hard to take out and I managed to break one of the soldered cables for that :S The bottom of the screen was glued on extremely hard.
Some notes: You definitely need to remove the battery as the screen cable runs underneath it. I'm not certain you need to remove the main board as it seemed you might be able to replace the front screen without taking that off. There's a lot of glued stuff in there so you better have good tools to pull things apart without breaking it.
So finally after having taken it apart enough and asserting a few things I decided that replacing the whole screen and re-building it will take too much time. I just saw a deal for $199 with wireless charger included. So having a choice of $65 new screen + 4 weeks of waiting and then spending 2 hours trying to replace it or buying a new one for $199 and getting a wireless charger + extra USB-C cable - I just ordered a new one. Plus I get to keep the old phone parts around for spares in case any of the side-buttons or front-speaker etc break
Just a note - my phone was in the official flip-cover when falling and got hit into the bottom right front corner and the cracks went all over the screen. I'm rather certain now that the phone's front glass panel is rather fragile and while having the silicone enclosure would've saved it in my case it's still a bit easy to break.
PS: Just wanted to add that I was actually genuinely impressed by the overall quality of the phone and Elephone in general for providing decent updates and support and assembly quality was good so while the glass panel is fragile I still decided to order a new phone from them!

Hi, I also had to replace the screen, so I tore down the phone before I ordered the new screen to see if I could do it safely. And I did (I didn't have to remove the main board, I just removed the screws and left it loose so I could remove the flat cable from the top. The problem is the screen took a couple of weeks to arrive and now I don't remember where a couple of small metal pieces that looks like contacts go. One is golden and the other is silver, both very small, looks like they fit in something similar to the antenna connector. Do you have any ideas of where are they supposed to go?

llucax said:
Hi, I also had to replace the screen, so I tore down the phone before I ordered the new screen to see if I could do it safely. And I did (I didn't have to remove the main board, I just removed the screws and left it loose so I could remove the flat cable from the top. The problem is the screen took a couple of weeks to arrive and now I don't remember where a couple of small metal pieces that looks like contacts go. One is golden and the other is silver, both very small, looks like they fit in something similar to the antenna connector. Do you have any ideas of where are they supposed to go?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I cannot remember exactly either, but I think there were two of them.
One of them was visible on this pic in the top right area, above the cable that goes under the LED lights.
The other one I remember had a similar purpose, but since I packed the parts away already I cannot remember where and it would take too much time to re-piece it together to figure it out.
(Exactly the reason why I decided to go for the new one instead of replacing the screen).

xataxxx said:
I cannot remember exactly either, but I think there were two of them.
One of them was visible on this pic in the top right area, above the cable that goes under the LED lights.
The other one I remember had a similar purpose, but since I packed the parts away already I cannot remember where and it would take too much time to re-piece it together to figure it out.
(Exactly the reason why I decided to go for the new one instead of replacing the screen).
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I finally figured it out. Yes, I saw the one in the pic, and the other one goes in the bottom part, on the right, just below the top right screw to hold the plastic bottom part. I finally managed to assemble everything back with the new screen and it works perfectly. Thanks!

i also have to change my display screen hopefully new arrives soon and the change is not to complicated

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=irDOXh1QoKE

And last few minutes of this showing how to remove the back cover

Hi,
I'm thinking of taking my back panel off for the purposes of fixing the GPS connections as advised here: http://bbs.elephone.hk/thread-11201-1-3.html#.V9SPfygrKM9
Now the op talks about aligning the springs with the backpanel connectors. Can someone take whichever picture is above and highlight which springs they mean?

i broke my screen on this phone, i have horizontal lines appearing on it, have tried three new screen and all display the same, i think there is a problem with mainboard after it was dropped so i am going to buy a new mainboard, anyone else experience this issue, when i wake it up its fine but after a second the lines come up, im pretty sure the screens are fine but something comes up and makes the lines

I've got this phone. I kept it in a safe place disassembled and at that time it was working, some days ago when reassembling the device, it shows no sign of life whatsoever, nor power up or charging battery; I thought the battery was completely dead, bought a brand new one but same situation... Do you think is possible that some kind of oxydation prevents the phone charging and power up? If connected to PC via usb cable, it shows Mediatek Preloader, so I think the phone is not dead.... Thank you all for answering, regards.