[Q] EU or T-mobile LCD + Digitizer? - HD2 General

So I've been searching on ebay and it looks like they're not sure what they're selling..
I think they've sent me a LCD for my Euro version of HD2 with a T-mobile digitizer.
Does it look like LCD is euro version?
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Thanks

long time. i see no replies, and i am stuck with same problems here.
it seems you got a t mobile digitizer, socket type and a solder type lcd (not sure with the second one)
what did you do mate?
bid

bad.bid said:
long time. i see no replies, and i am stuck with same problems here.
it seems you got a t mobile digitizer, socket type and a solder type lcd (not sure with the second one)
what did you do mate?
bid
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Do you not have a TMOUS HD2 which is socket type !
If you have broken LCD when doing digi removal then you need a socket type LCD to pair with a socket type digi.
Complete lcd & digi with matching socket or solder will both work fine on any HD2 as the tail ribbon to mainboard is same on both but you can not cross match a socket & solder digi or LCD.

Mister B said:
Do you not have a TMOUS HD2 which is socket type !
If you have broken LCD when doing digi removal then you need a socket type LCD to pair with a socket type digi.
Complete lcd & digi with matching socket or solder will both work fine on any HD2 as the tail ribbon to mainboard is same on both but you can not cross match a socket & solder digi or LCD.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
So i finally took apart my HD2 without hurting the lcd. I have ordered the digitizer. I hope assembling is not much pain.
i read somewhere that after re assembling, sensors may not work right because the lenses on middle frame that cover them may get lost. i actually fear i have lost one. and one video said "remove all old tape" so many times that i scraped off almost anything, and after that i saw that the golden colored 'tape' was present in brand new middle frame too!!
I have attached photos, black arrow showing the position of the lens covering the sensor and white arrows showing the supposed tape that i removed half.
can someone confirm what things i messed up? maybe i need a middle frame too now?

Black arrow to small square hole should have a small clear stepped plastic lens that fits in the hole, if you been methodical you may find it in your work area if not you ideally need get one !
Also looks like you may of removed/damaged the black mesh for earpiece near this missing lens :-/
As for gold tape no idea if will cause any issues as never removed like you have, it is a shielding tape similar to what runs up edges of digi,l cd & centre chassis before disassembled & we get away without that !
Just use lots of care or things won't be much fun once rebuilt.
Most issue with sensors is idiots who block them with bad home made tape or shoddy assembly.
You will need a tape kit for digi & centre chassis (links in HD2 wiki)
Tape alone is not enough as none are as good as the factory tape. Ideally you need a small tube of black silicone adhesive such as PU40. You can use this sparingly down sides of new digi to lcd after first fixing it into position using tape, do make sure digitizer is positioned correctly on LCD as about 0.5mm out will cause button issues, do a dry run on buttons & lcd, digi function before building it up with adhesive. Use a few very small spots of silicone adhesive down sides of LCD (Make gaps in tape as needed) to centre chassis & near corners as without it the assembly will lift & not hold flush, with silicone adhesive (used sparingly & with thought) an OEM finish build is achievable & it remains that way without lifting in a corner or 2 ...
Care & care & more care is needed if first time on an HD2 as without it you will be lucky to have a usable device, good luck ...

Related

Some 'Play' in the Mini-USB connector?

I am slightly worried about the mini-USB connector on my QTEK 9100 as it seems to have a little bit of 'play' in it - i.e. it can be moved slightly and so seems loose.
I have read various threads about the connectors breaking and either being pushed into the device or simply falling out. Some people seem to have had some success getting them replaced or repaired under warranty, others haven't. Since I bought mine off eBay last year I think I am pretty much out of luck regarding warranty.
Anyway if I take the stylus or something similar and push the metal edge of the mini-USB connector it moves slightly within the over-sized hole in the plastic case (there is a very slight gap all around the metal outer part of the mini-USB connector and the hole in the plastic case). I am not sure whether it has always done this or it is becoming loose. Can someone else check whether their mini-USB connector moves slightly in the manner I describe or if theirs is solid? It is only a very slight movement but really that is all it has the ability to move since the gap between the metal and the plastic is very small.
The connection seems OK to my PC and I have upgraded the ROM a few times recently but this slight movement is getting me a bit concerned that it is going to break shortly and since this is the only way to charge it I will be left a bit stuck
If it is on it's way out what are my options and what are the likely costs? I don't think I have any warranty case and I am in the UK.
Thanks
Andy
loose mini-USB connector
My MDA also had a loose mini USB connector over time it continued to become loose until it finially brokw. I was forunate that T-Mobile did replace it under warranty.
I did find a company ont he internet that charges $60 to replace the MDA with a new mini USB Connector. It does require the device to be shipped to them.
Here is ther website address:
http://www.pocketpctechs.com/
Good Luck
I have applied a rather crude fix by inserting some small pieces of card (I cut up a business card) around the slight gap between the outer metal part of the mini-USB connector and the surrounding plastic. This seems to have stopped the connector moving, although I still think the damage may have been done
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It's charging and syncing without any issues though so I will see how it goes.
Andy
Loose Stylus & Mini USB inspection.....
My Wizard has recently developed the loose stylus issue outlined here:
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=247497&highlight=loose+stylus
I have followed the instructions to 'strengthen' the small plastic retention tab using a bit of silicone which is currently drying.....
Whilst I had the back off I decided to take a look at the Mini USB connector and see if there was any damage. Well it looks like three of the four solder pads at either corner of the connector have become 'unstuck' from the circuit board (see attached image). I have some experience of soldering but I am a little worried that I may damage something else with the heat if I attempt to touch each of the pads to re-secure it. The five data pins at the rear all seem OK, it is just these ground/earth ones.
Has anyone else performed this repair successfully?
Andy (slightly worried )
Since the replies were so encouraging I went ahead and re-soldered the pads and it's still working......
The silicone didn't work so I removed it and inserted a small piece of plastic and re-siliconed it in place. It's better than it was originally now
I think I'll take the back off again in a few weeks and see how the mini USB connector is. Any other advice as to keeping the USB connector intact?
Andy
Hi,
I have a post about red/orange light in this forum, do you reckon that the broken usb connector could be whats causing my problem? Do you have a guide to dismantling the MINI?
Thanks
Service Manual on FTP
mrhaddock said:
Hi,
I have a post about red/orange light in this forum, do you reckon that the broken usb connector could be whats causing my problem? Do you have a guide to dismantling the MINI?
Thanks
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Check the link I posted in the 4th post. There is a service manual on the FTP.
The trickiest bit it unlocking the hooks on the back panel - it feels like you are going to snap the thing
ftp://ftp.xda-developers.com/Wizard/Docs_Tutorials/
HTH
Andy
ADB100 said:
Whilst I had the back off I decided to take a look at the Mini USB connector and see if there was any damage. Well it looks like three of the four solder pads at either corner of the connector have become 'unstuck' from the circuit board (see attached image). I have some experience of soldering but I am a little worried that I may damage something else with the heat if I attempt to touch each of the pads to re-secure it. The five data pins at the rear all seem OK, it is just these ground/earth ones.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have had a MP3 player which has the same problem with the output jack (for the ear phone). The solder became loose and I get irritating silences during the music play back. I solve the problem by applying superglue on top of it because the circuits there are just way too small for my (or any other human) soldering skill.
Anyway, for this case, it seems that the ground is large enough to withstand minor heat from the solder. And, chances are, since it ground, in most cases thick/wide enough most of the way (as to absorb any 'distrubances') before it reaches any IC which is what you need to be really careful of.

Having problems with your screen yet?

I'm a T-Mobile rep and my G1 screen died after about ten days of moderate use. I was at the store doing some web browsing when the screen stopped responding to touch. Closed the keyboard and opened again and the phone froze. Hard reset and phone started up, slip open keyboard and screen went black. Hard reset again, no dice. Tried recovery mode, nothing. Called my phone and it rings and I can answer.
I'm guessing ribbon cable. Played about sliding the keyboard half way in and out, etc and occasionally screen backlight would show for a moment. Investigating further, sliding mechanism had pushed back the "s" ribbon cable causing the problems. The ribbon cable was actually folded back. There is very tight tolerance there. This is probably the reason for our other two G1's returned to our store for screen problems. This is a serious design flaw that will affect many G1's over time. The sliding mechanism will catch the lip of the ribbon.
The good news is that my replacement has a fix to the problem. T-Mobile and HTC has apparently quietly made a revision to the design. My new G1 has some teflon tape running from far left side of the slide channel all the way to ribbon cable. This helps prevent the slide mechanism from catching on the lip of ribbon. Checked co-workers with older G1's and they didn't have the longer piece of tape. Sold one today to customer, checked in the slide channel and bingo, longer teflon tape.
Just a heads up guys. The boxes don't have date stamps like most of our phones so you won't know if it has the fix until you open it.
Kind of a bummer since I got mine on ebay soon after it came out. Is this something I could fix myself by opening it up or do you need an "expert" to do it?
You should be able to be proactive before damage has been done. With phone upside down and keyboard open and facing you look in the groove that the slide mechanism goes. On the side facing you, you will see where the ribbon cable attaches to the wall. It will probably have 1/2" or less of a white teflon tape at that point. On the revised G1, that white tape runs from the ribbon all the way to the edge of the screen width. Basically the new tape is half the screen width wide.
You could probably use a teflon or other slick surfaced tape to cover the area the sliding mechanism tracks. That yellow cellophane-like tape that comes with temp sensors for computer components would probably work good as it is stiff enough to wiggle it where it needs to go without having to take screen apart.
I would take pics but my camera has shot craps.
This?
No, hold phone with screen facing you and upside down so usb port it at top. Open screen. Look down at screen assembly where it looks hollow or a channel. Do you see the slide hinge assembly and ribbon cable now.
Oh like under here? I added a little padding to fix the creek so I think I'm fine.
Wish I had a pic. Take that picture you just posted. Now rotate phone 90 degrees counter-clockwise. USB should be on top. Now tip the phone towards you. You are now looking at bottom of phone, you should be looking directly at the charge port. Look directly left, you'll be looking at bottom edge of the slide out screen, right. Do you see how the bottom of the screen looks hollow, about 1/2" deep channel, inside is the hinge and ribbon cable. Sorry to confuse.

			
				
DING DING DING!!! We have a winner!!! Thanks for the picture so others will know what I'm talking about.
Do you see where the ribbon cable is adhered to the inner wall, that is the weak point.
Well I see like a piece of metal with the ribbon sliding back and forth as you open it.
When you barely start to open it you'll see how that "piece of metal" slides over where the ribbon cable affixes. There is a tight clearance there. What can happen is that "piece of metal" starts to get hung up on the edge of the ribbon, eventually peeling the ribbon back. They fixed the problem by placing a tape over where the "piece of metal" tracks thus removing the edge to get snagged on. I suck at explaining things.
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Great picture as it shows the ribbon cable in question. The area in question is where the cable is affixed on the right side as viewed in the above photo.
Hey thanks for the heads up (and the repeated instructions). I inserted a piece of electrical tape over the metal part so it will move more smoothly over.
Hi there i was just wondering what if the damage has already been done. Unfourtunatly the ribbon cable on mine has already been damaged. Now i took it to a repair shop and he said he could not find the part anywhere. I'm wonder can i tape up the old cable and get it to work... or where can i find a new one. Btw I am in Canada i bought the phone off some person so i do not have any warranty. thanks for anyhelp in advance
I've never seen this issue before at my store. I'm sure it could happen but I don't really see this as a huge issue, yet. Our store displays get abused so much and constantly slide open and closed and they show no signs of problems. I will def. keep an eye out for this issue.
--------bump.
How do I tell if I have the tape? What color is it?
P.S. I am looking in the right spot so don't tell me where to look
can someone post a picture of the white teflon tape on the original G1 and the revised G1. Here is a picture of my phone, from what I read I am guessing I have the old phone prior to the fix, but I am not sure...
Two more pictures, I guess this is the revised version with the long tape.
Edit: just links to the jpegs: first, second.

HTC Legend Screen Repair Guide

Does the outer touch screen of your HTC Legend have been cracked or damaged? This written repair guide will walk you through all the steps required to disassemble your HTC Legend quickly and safely.
This guide will help you to install the following HTC Legend parts:
HTC Legend Touch Screen Digitizer Glass Replacement
Tools Required:
Safe Open Pry Tool
T6 Torx Screwdriver
Adhesive Strips (For Touch Screen Digitizer)
Hot Air Gun / Hair Dryer
HTC Legend Take Apart Repair Guide:
The first step will be to pry up the back-bottom cover using safe open pry tool. Remove the battery and the sim card from the phone.
You will now need to unscrew five (4) screws using the T6 screwdriver located in figure 1.
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Figure 1​
Pry up the back-top cover using safe open pry tool. Remove the two (2) screws using the T6 screwdriver located at the top of the phone.
Figure 2
Now you can carefully pry the screen assembly and motherboard from the back housing. It may take some time to work the assembly out of place.
Once the screen assembly and motherboard have been removed, remove the 2 torx T6 screws located in figure 3. You can now remove the lower assembly.
Remove the plastic housing on the back side of the assembly by using a safe open pry tool to carefully unclip the housing.
Figure 3​
The motherboard will now be exposed. Use a safe open pry tool to release the 3 connectors located on the motherboard. If the connection is a "jaw" connector, simply lift the lip and carefully slide out the cable.
Once the screen is completely released, you can take it out of the assembly.
Figure 4​
You can now heat the front of the screen assembly to warm the adhesive. Use a heat gun or hair dryer on a medium setting for about 45 seconds, using quick movements around the outside edges.
Use a safe open pry tool to pry between the touch screen digitizer and front frame, carefully releasing it from the housing. Reheat if necessary.
Carefully release the touch screen flex cable from the back of the screen assembly and feed it through the housing to fully remove the digitizer.
Simply replace the damaged parts with the new ones and reverse the order to put your phone back together again.
Here is a guide with photos about disassembly of HTC Legend.
http://www.formymobile.co.uk/htclegenddisassembly.php
Hi guys, I've successfully replace touchscreen on my legend, but now it's wierd in the top part of screen.
is there a way to calibrate it?Thanks.
Best regards.
jussy said:
Hi guys, I've successfully replace touchscreen on my legend, but now it's wierd in the top part of screen.
is there a way to calibrate it?Thanks.
Best regards.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You can't and shouldn't need to calibrate the screen. If its not responding correctly / fully check over the connections and install. If its still not working make sure there was no damage caused to the flex cable of the screen.
Thanks so much for drawings! It's very clear
I was thinking of repairing the USB port on my HTC Legend. I think one or two of the 4 pins for USB have come loose, so I was considering soldering them back on again.
Your guide, does it allow me to access the USB ports connections?
Cheers
kelvinyap9 said:
Thanks so much for drawings! It's very clear
I was thinking of repairing the USB port on my HTC Legend. I think one or two of the 4 pins for USB have come loose, so I was considering soldering them back on again.
Your guide, does it allow me to access the USB ports connections?
Cheers
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Glad you like the guide.
Yes, you'll need to open the phone up down to the motherboard to have access to the USB port.
hi there when i was taking my phone to bits to change the lcd i broke wee black cable wi the zif connectors on it can you tell me can i buy an new one or can it be repaired i tried bearing a bit of the wire and putting the connector back on but when i put the phone toghether everything work except i get no signal
A downloadable version of this Legend take apart is available as well.
thanks for sharing.
timm.avouris said:
thanks for sharing.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You're Welcome!
devstar said:
hi there when i was taking my phone to bits to change the lcd i broke wee black cable wi the zif connectors on it can you tell me can i buy an new one or can it be repaired i tried bearing a bit of the wire and putting the connector back on but when i put the phone toghether everything work except i get no signal
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Unfortunately, it sounds like you may need to replace the part.
Hey,
I have lots of dust under the screen of my legend.
Is there any way of removing this?
Thanks,
TheJohnDunster
TheJohnDunster said:
Hey,
I have lots of dust under the screen of my legend.
Is there any way of removing this?
Thanks,
TheJohnDunster
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes, follow the instructions in the guide that started this thread, which will show how to open up your device. Complete the steps in order to remove the touch screen (outer glass), and then clean out the dust. However, make sure you have the necessary tools for the repair (listed at beginning of the guide). Best of luck!
I did this on my phone today, because the digitizer was broken, the new screen works fine but the USB does not work, the computer says it's a unknown device, does not matter if i'm in android or fastboot mode and the SD card does not work either the phone does not see the card. Any ideas what can have happend?
Found a thread about fixing usb/sd error but for that i need to have "terminal emulator" but i did remove that from the phone long time ago, and since the sd dont work i cant download a APK either and for some reason Play store is also gone after screen change and the clock was reset, Im on CM 7.2

HTC Incredible Droid Screen Repair Take Apart Guide

Does the outer touch screen of your HTC Incredible Droid have been cracked or damaged? Is the inner display LCD not functioning properly or become damaged? Or are you just curious of the disassembly process on the HTC Incredible Droid? In this guide, you will learn the steps to properly take your Droid smartphone apart safely.
This guide will help you to install the following HTC Droid Incredible part(s):
HTC Droid Incredible Glass Touch Screen Digitizer Replacement
HTC Droid Incredible LCD Screen Replacement Display
Other Internal Replacement Parts, Flex Cables, Speakers, Housing, & More
Tools Required:
Safe Open Pry Tool
Small Phillips Screwdriver
T6 Torx Screwdriver
HTC Incredible Droid LCD and Touch Screen Glass Digitizer Screen Repair Take Apart Guide:
To begin taking apart your HTC Incredible Droid, you will need to first remove the backing and the battery. If you have any problems separating the two, you can use your open safe pry tool for assistance.
Next, there will be four screws that need to be removed—one at each corner. Remove them using your small Phillips head screwdriver as shown in figure 1.
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Figure 1​
There are clips between the glass and the backing that will need to be pried and released as you go. Using your open safe pry tool, you will gently release these clips. You may need to work the open safe pry tool gently back and forth to separate the two.
Once you have released the clips, you should be able to easily raise the back cover of the phone. Set this aside along with your screws.
Next you will need to remove the track pad from the bottom of the phone. To do this, use your open safe pry tool to release the jaw connector, as shown in figure 2. Then you can remove the track pad.
Figure 2​
You will now need to release three more jaw connectors to be able to release the ribbon cable. There are two on the sides, appearing as small pieces of flexible metal, and one on the bottom. Release these gently using your open safe pry tool, and then you can disconnect the ribbon cable beneath.
Once the ribbon cable has been released, you can remove the two small screws that are holding the mother board in place using your Phillips screwdriver. These two screws are diagonal from each other, with one at the bottom left, and the other on the top right.
Now that you have removed the two screws, you will be able to gently remove the mother board using your fingers, as shown in figure 3.
Figure 3​
Now you can begin to remove the LCD screen from the frame by removing the two small screws located at the top.
Once you have removed these screws, you can remove the LCD screen by using your open safe pry tool to gently separate the frame from the screen, as pictured in figure 4.
Figure 4​
Once you have pried the LCD screen apart from the touch screen, you can easily replace the screen with your new one by reversing all the steps to achieve a phone that is like new again.
The HTC Droid Incredible is now disassembled and you can replace the damaged part(s) with new ones. Reverse the instructions above to reassemble your phone.
We now also have a downloadable version of this guide in PDF format which can be downloaded here - HTC Droid Incredible Repair Guide
Thank you! Now I can save my Inc! :good:
JoseGamaliel said:
Thank you! Now I can save my Inc! :good:
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
No problem. Glad we could help!
I'll add that if your replacement LCD does not fit "perfectly" don't force it. I have personally experienced DINCs LCD vendors misrepresenting the model of the screen which only served to cause a big headache.
I had actually followed this guide and got stuck while removing the LCD. The LCD was completely glued to screen digitizer and while applying a little force to remove the LCD, it cracked and stopped working. So be very careful when removing the LCD.
I have one more question though. My camera glass is cracked. It does not affect my ability to take images or shoot videos, however is really annoying when someone notices it. While opening my phone, I saw that the camera is actually assembled on the motherboard using some kind of a mechanism. Can you guide me how to replace the camera piece?
Thanks for your help
followed this guide and it worked perfectly
Do I need adhesive strips for replacing the earpiece speaker?
Thanks for such a nice hands-on guide.
Neel737 said:
Thanks for such a nice hands-on guide.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
No problem. Thanks for the kind words!

Any ZE551KL disassembly videos or photos?

I was hoping to find any information at all that might suggest that the ZE551ML screen can be used on the ZE551KL. I haven't wanted to disassemble my phone, in case I decide to opt for an official screen replacement. Unfortunately, I haven't found any disassembly guides or photographs or videos yet.
Thanks!
psi_star_psi said:
I was hoping to find any information at all that might suggest that the ZE551ML screen can be used on the ZE551KL. I haven't wanted to disassemble my phone, in case I decide to opt for an official screen replacement. Unfortunately, I haven't found any disassembly guides or photographs or videos yet.
Thanks!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I started my repair of the ZE551KL today. After you remove the user replaceable battery and the screws that allow you to take off the plastic shell, it appears quite different than the inside of the ZE551ML as seen in this video: youtube.com/watch?v=5X0dkhKNqm4
There's a coaxial cable in the same spot as it is in the ZE551ML, and two ribbons pulled through the top portion of the motherboard which are presumably the display cables.
But how one would go about removing the mother board to gain access to the display assembly and metal backing plate I have no idea. I suppose I have no choice but to poke and prod at it a bit, same goes with removing the ribbons before I attempt to remove the motherboard. Is there even a separate daughterboard at the bottom of the phone like the ZE551ML?
Another thing I can already see being an issue is that the display seems to be fused to the frame of the phone with something incredibly strong. They appear to be just one solid piece of metal/plastic. I guess I'll cross that bridge if I ever get to it.
Attached image: Phone with broken display assembly still attached, next to replacement display assembly sitting face down.
The replacement part that I bought: ebay.com/itm/272208004464 (NEW ASUS ZenFone 2 Laser 5.5 ZE551KL LCD Display Touch Screen Digitizer Assembly) by seller: wwon_one
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OK, that ended up being pretty easy. There's no difficult battery removal like with the ZE551ML, the motherboard is one solid unit, and the top speaker does not need to be detached and glued back into place. Also, the coaxial cable disconnects with a user friendly plug made for human fingers, although my memory is fuzzy on whether you actually need to disconnect it at all, but that will all be self evident as you take the phone apart.
There motherboard is one solid unit with an L shaped arm extending towards the bottom of the phone. It's merely snapped in place with a few plastic tabs that are stretched outward or pushed inward to release the motherboard from the the frame below.
The coaxial cable's connections are NOT removed at the positions I have highlighted, instead there is a user friendly plug that you can almost make out in the photo which resides to the left of the bottom (non-removable) coxial connection point I previously pointed out in the diagram. To reiterate, I'm not sure whether the coxial connection requires manipulation or if it just sort of pops in and out of place on it's own as you take the phone apart. Unlike the ZE551ML, the top speaker will remain attached and doesn't need to be refastened with adhesive.
At the bottom left of the phone there is a soft, black rectangular rubber module which disconnects that is either the speaker or the vibration motor. At any rate, it's easy to reconnect when you reassemble the phone. Pulling the two display cables through the bottom of the motherboard is essentially the same as you'll see in a ZE551ML repair video. Prior to that, disconnecting the old display ribbons took a surprising amount of force, but since they are part of the broken part of the phone you are replacing, there isn't much to lose.
The most challenging part of the repair is separating your old broken screen and display assembly from the frame of the phone without breaking that thin, plastic frame. You'll need something that can function as a plastic spudger tool to pry the screen free and something to apply heat to the edges of the phone to make that possible in the first place. I used a hair dryer that was disappointingly hot at maximum heat. As a result, I probably used excessive force and created a small break in the thin plastic frame of the phone in the process of removing the old screen, but it's really no worse for the wear. Contributing to my minor error was the fact that I used a plastic cake knife that I imagine had a thicker taper and larger initial contact point than the ideal plastic prying tool.
In order to secure the new display assembly in place, you'll want to buy double sided adhesive tape made for phone repair as suggested in the youtube video for repairing the ZE551ML. From the research I did, it seems well worth the 6 to 10 dollars instead of trying to use super glue or the existing adhesive left behind (what's left behind won't be strong enough to seat the display assembly perfectly, which is supposedly what you need for the phone to survive minor falls in the future, as well as perhaps for the touchscreen to function perfectly.)
Here is a partial disassembly video I found.
It's actually more like a motherboard teardown, but you can follow it up to 1:20. After that, peel away the top-left display cable. Then heat up the edges of the screen from the front side, while using a tool to pry the glass screen from the plastic housing.

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