I've got hold of a solar panel that outputs 5v at around 350-450 ma. I was reading up on Li-Poly batteries (the Nook touch has Li-poly AFAIK) and I am concerned about this bit:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lithium-ion_polymer_battery
LiPoly batteries must be charged carefully. The basic process is to charge at constant current until each cell reaches 4.2 V; the charger must then gradually reduce the charge current while holding the cell voltage at 4.2 V until the charge current has dropped to a small percentage of the initial charge rate, at which point the battery is considered 100% charged. Some manufacturers specify 2%, others 3%, but other values are also possible. The difference in achieved capacity is minute.
Balance charging simply means that the charger monitors the voltage of each cell in a pack and varies the charge on a per-cell basis so that all cells are brought to the same voltage.
It is important to note that trickle charging is not acceptable for lithium batteries; Li-poly chemistry cannot accept an overcharge without causing damage to the cell, possibly plating out lithium metal and becoming hazardous.[5] Most manufacturers claim a maximum and minimum voltage of 4.23 and 3.0 volts per cell. Taking any cell outside these limits can reduce the cell's capacity and ability to deliver full rated current.
Most dedicated lithium polymer chargers use a charge timer for safety; this cuts the charge after a predefined time (typically 90 minutes).
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So does anyone know if the Touch has intelligence built in on the device side for charging? I assume it does since you can connect to PC USB for charging. I'm hoping this is the case so I don't have to get some funky circuit between the panel and the nook to charge it on the road.
Any advice would be appreciated!
Yes, the Nook Touch has (as every electronic device which gets charged over a normal wall wart or USB) a builtin charging circuit.
I've been thinking of doing this; attaching a panel to the back and soldering onto the USB for a (hopefully) neater solution than using something external which puts pressure on the USB port
Just use a portable solar charger with a regular USB output port.
---------- Post added at 06:06 AM ---------- Previous post was at 06:06 AM ----------
There are actually quite a few out there to pick from if you look on amazon.
I have a "Power Monkey explorer" solar charger and it works, but it really isn't that great. It takes 8 hours of strong direct sunlight to charge the battery pack, which has a 2100 ma AA battery and then you plug this into whatever you want to charge. There is plenty of sun in the summer to charge it if I left it outside, but it really is a pia. I ususlly charge the battery pack from my computer and use it to charge my nook or cell phone when traveling if I need to. Hotels are really bad about putting electrical outlets in the rooms and shut the power off when you leave the room (any plastic card works to fix that problem).
I really don't think I would solder anything to the nook, you could do some major damage and the sun really isn't that relaible in most places. Also attaching a solar panel to the back of a device that would be damaged by excessive heat is asking for trouble. You would have to leave it in the sun for long periods of time and it would get hot. Plastic also degrades much quicker in direct sunlight so you would be damaging the case over time.
It is much better to use one of the kits with a battery pack for the above reasons and if it is a good kit it will have several adapters to you can charge a variety of devices. Unfortunately they are very expensive, I saw the one I have in Brussels for 79 euro last week. I got it for 10 euro as a promotional deal, and I wish I had bought all they had so I could sell them on e-bay.
If you are trying to save money on electricity, it will never work. I'm not sure where you live, but in the US, 1KWH Kilowatt hour (1000 watts for 1 hour) costs less than $1.00, although California is expected to be much higher. The battery on the touch is 1530mAh x 110v = 168.3 Wh, lets call it 200 with the conversion loss on the wall wart, so you can charge it about 5 times for less than $1, probably more like 10 because you rarely do a full drain and the cost is much less than $1. The solar charger I have is $89 on amazon, so you have to do between 100 and 200 complete charges before you broke even. However beacuse of the battery life, unless you really used it a lot, you most likely would never come close to breaking even. At half the projected battery life it would take about 10 years of only using the solar charger.
Don't get me wrong, I think Solar is great, but it is priced way too high to be practical. The charger I have probably costs less than $20 to manufacture in china, it sells for $89. Honestly, I think it would be cheaper to buy batteries and charge it from them than to use one of these small solar chargers, definately if you bought the batteries at Ikea!
I'm waiting for Horizon Fuel Cell Technologies, they have some really interesting stuff. In my opinion a solar powered fuel cell system is the way to go, certainly on a large scale. Still too exensive for small scale, but very cool. I've seen a house with a solar/fuel cell system completely off the grid. Large house, heat/ac, big frige and freezer, NO BATTERIES. Works great. Biggest problem I think is replacing or testing the storage tanks every 15 to 20 years.
FloydF said:
The battery on the touch is 1530mAh x 110v = 168.3 Wh, lets call it 200 with the conversion loss on the wall wart, so you can charge it about 5 times for less than $1
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Uh, the NST battery is 1530mAh sure, but it's only 3.7V so that would give it a more realistic total of 5.66Wh
The number of charges on a single KWh would be 176 (a little less as you need to account for losses in the charger and charging circuit.)
Now charging the NST from a solar cell small and flexible enough to fit the back of the NST would still be a PITA .. it will take ages, even in direct sunlight.
And, as Floyd points out, you really don't want to expose the dark back of the NST to direct sunlight, it will get insanely hot and degrade the plastic.
If you really need solar charging for your NST, something like this might be a more realistic option.
Related
my jasjar is turn off when it get to 40% buttery power , what can it be ? if i charge it it dosent turn off but without power charger it work just until 40% .
thanks in advance.
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?p=1081974#post1081974
sometimes this is just due to topping up charges and there is not a "continuous" supply current in the battery at that 40% mark. I had it once but always top up whenever halfway or very low and never had problem, but a way to fix the glitch is to drain the battery and then fully charge it
Li-Ion batteries do not suffer from memory effect. I have read in several tech reports on Li-Ion technology that it is actually better to top up often, like a lead acid battery. If the battery goes into deep discharge conditions, this will potentially cause serious problems. Assuminb the protection circuits in the battery work, this shouldn't be an issue though.The main problem is that the cells oxidise and stop transferring the charge to the device. This starts as soon as they are made and can't be stopped. If the oxidisation between cells is bad enough, the only use you get is from cells one side of this barrier. The battery still reports charge because the other cells still have it but they can't be usedBottom line is that the battery is poor on the Uni and lasts less than a year.Get a new one from another source, Cameron Sinio or whatever they are called are usually good.
pug said:
Li-Ion batteries do not suffer from memory effect. I have read in several tech reports on Li-Ion technology that it is actually better to top up often, like a lead acid battery.
<...>
Get a new one from another source, Cameron Sinio or whatever they are called are usually good.
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Yeah I always put it into charger cradle when driving home -- nice way to keep it topped up.
Recently my battery started to play up and I have ordered one from BatteryUpgrade.com - a Cameron Sino battery for £18.xx has arrived quickly but could not serve the purpose - was not charging and eventually totally discharged.
Also was not indicating charge properly - always 100% (the LED is still Amber, not Green as you would expect at 100%).
I wonder if anyone else has bought Cameron Sino branded batteries and experienced same effects: 1) always 100% indication in your software and 2) lack of ability to charge?
Universal is using Lithium Polymer (light weight), not Lithium ion (heavy weight) batteries.
The main differences between li-ion and li-po batteries are the recharge/discharge rates and the construction of the core. Li-ion batteries are "wet" cells where as Li-Po batteries are "dry" which makes them thinner and more rugged. The same precautions still need to be observed and the life of the batteries is still about the same. They start becoming unusable after 300 charges and only have 40% of charge after 500 cycles. The life of 3 years is from the date of production, being stored at 40% charge and at the appropriate temperature. They are better when constantly topped up to prevent the voltage of the cells from dropping too low as this promotes oxidisation between the boundries of the cell. If they are overcharged, lithium metal is produced which is also bad. Another problem is that if the cell voltage drops too low it can never be recovered meaning one knackered battery. I have looked into this quite a bit as my battery has started shutting off at 60%ish, after 10 months of use which is pretty fair. I only expect batteries to last a year anyway. Good excuse to get a higher capacity battery in my opinion. I have used a Cameron Sino battery before in my Alpine and had those reporting issues for a few weeks and they dissappeared almost overnight. Don't know why but hey, isn't modern technology great?
Interesting. Thanks for you info. No wonder battery is not under gaurantee!
EastExpert said:
Yeah I always put it into charger cradle when driving home -- nice way to keep it topped up.
Recently my battery started to play up and I have ordered one from BatteryUpgrade.com - a Cameron Sino battery for £18.xx has arrived quickly but could not serve the purpose - was not charging and eventually totally discharged.
Also was not indicating charge properly - always 100% (the LED is still Amber, not Green as you would expect at 100%).
I wonder if anyone else has bought Cameron Sino branded batteries and experienced same effects: 1) always 100% indication in your software and 2) lack of ability to charge?
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Yes, I've had 3 Cameron Sino batteries that all reported 100% regardless of charge level. Can't remember if the LED ever went green with them, or not, I'm afraid. Obviously, they all went back for refund.
Cheers,
Steve.
I got a CS battery and it started to expand, cracking the casing and seeming rather dangerous. I emailed the seller and it was replaced in 24 hours. He asked for theold one sent back so the factory could analyse it.
I had to dump the replacement recently because it wasn't giving the Uni enough current to complete a hard reset and was lockingup the device during 3G data and a call.
All in all I think 2 bad ones is enough, I will stick to the one that comes with the Uni and keep a USB cable curled up in my pocket =)
Hi!
I had a battery probelm (same one everyone else seemed to get with there 1yr old uni) where it cuts out at 60% due to the voltage from the battery dropping below the threshold really fast.
Anyway I got a new battery .. my old one was 1650ma (or something like that) I got this new one which is 1750ma (or something like that).. definitely different.
Now I plug my original charger (5v 1a) into the pda and the charge light turns on .. I leave it for an hour and the battery hasn't charged any.. in fact its lost charge as you'd expect if it had been left switched on with no supply.
So.. I plug my motorola krzr charger (5v 550ma) into it and go for a shower/sh*t/shave come back and the battery has gained 10%.. great! atleast I can charge it now.
I also have a desktop cradle charger (5v 1a), same problem.. it sits there forever and a day and discharges... no charge.. (I only got it when I got my new battery so could not prove it before hand)
USB charging works with no problems (not from the cradle one though). So my question is ... Why?
Could it be something to do with my new battery?? I got it from PDAAddons and they've always been good in the past so I believe I can rule out it being a fake.
My new battery is a Li-on Poly.. I've got to admit I didn't look at my old one to see if that was a poly too ... was definitely a li-on though.
I can live with using my moto charger on my exec but unfortunately the ac adapter for my cradle is of a different connector type (female pin sleeve thingy like nokia) so before I search the world for a 5v 550ma version I could do with knowing if i'm barking up the wrong tree and about to waste my money..
Any electronics whizzes in the house say ho!
anyone? :''-(
Aahaahaa!
I'm here! Now, what you say sounds very interesting and yet very strange, why?
- Normally more current from the charger should be better, you cannot put in the PDA more current than it's factory maximum (which I don't know how much it is, but that's not a problem), the internal charger (inside the PDA) knows how much it is and how to limit, also takes care of the right charging profile for your battery.
- You don't have to worry about the exact battery type you bought, boths are Lithium, so chargind profiles are mostly the same, these (LiIon and LiPoly) are "exchangeable" usually (I've heard of no problems until now, since several years I mean).
- If your battery is discharging means only one thing, you're not puttin current into the battery, you're taking it out of it! So, either you might have a deffective charger, a deffective charging circuit (the one inside the PDA) or a defective battery.
- You can charge the battery with your Moto's charger, so battery is probably ok, you have used your original charger/craddle until now, so they might be ok, you have charged one battery at least to 10% so PDA should be ok.
What can it be?
Possibilities are:
Slightly deffective PDA's internal charging circuit, the fact that you can charge with a lower rating charger (the one for your Razr, thing that I've done myself two weeks ago), might point to this, because you have already "limited" the maximum current to 550mA (Razr's charger max current).
Slightly different battery, most of the batteries do have some kind of thermal protection circuit inside (chip + temp sensor, etc.), if the behavior of this circuit is not "compatible" somethin strange can happen, however I personally consider this option not to be the best.
One or two of your chargers might also be somehow "deffective", why? Your original battery might be ok and you are just having problems with your chargers or your High capacity chargers (the original one and that from the craddle) have some problem to give enough juice to your batteries.
I surely might proceed as follows:
try to charge both batteries with a stand alone charger, this is not an easy task, because Lithium batteries are the most "delicate" types, charging method is the "strangest" one, I have two stand alone battery chargers that came as gift with some Nokia batteries I bought from an Ebay seller, eventually, I could give you the full schematic so you can construct it (if you want and if you can).
In this way I will not have any more suspects from the batteries.
Second, test each of my chargers, it can be done by connecting a medium -and suitable- load to each charger for some minutes.
A wire wound ceramic resistor should do the trick, ie for the Razr charger (5V, 550mA) I could use a 250mA load, R=V/I, so 5V/.25A equals 20 ohm (1.25W max power, use at least a 2W resistor, 3 or 5W better).
If the internal PDA circuit should be defective, take it to fix or try to fix for yourself.
Hope this helps
kecido said:
Aahaahaa!
I'm here! Now, what you say sounds very interesting and yet very strange, why?
- Normally more current from the charger should be better, you cannot put in the PDA more current than it's factory maximum (which I don't know how much it is, but that's not a problem), the internal charger (inside the PDA) knows how much it is and how to limit, also takes care of the right charging profile for your battery.
- You don't have to worry about the exact battery type you bought, boths are Lithium, so chargind profiles are mostly the same, these (LiIon and LiPoly) are "exchangeable" usually (I've heard of no problems until now, since several years I mean).
- If your battery is discharging means only one thing, you're not puttin current into the battery, you're taking it out of it! So, either you might have a deffective charger, a deffective charging circuit (the one inside the PDA) or a defective battery.
- You can charge the battery with your Moto's charger, so battery is probably ok, you have used your original charger/craddle until now, so they might be ok, you have charged one battery at least to 10% so PDA should be ok.
What can it be?
Possibilities are:
Slightly deffective PDA's internal charging circuit, the fact that you can charge with a lower rating charger (the one for your Razr, thing that I've done myself two weeks ago), might point to this, because you have already "limited" the maximum current to 550mA (Razr's charger max current).
Slightly different battery, most of the batteries do have some kind of thermal protection circuit inside (chip + temp sensor, etc.), if the behavior of this circuit is not "compatible" somethin strange can happen, however I personally consider this option not to be the best.
One or two of your chargers might also be somehow "deffective", why? Your original battery might be ok and you are just having problems with your chargers or your High capacity chargers (the original one and that from the craddle) have some problem to give enough juice to your batteries.
I surely might proceed as follows:
try to charge both batteries with a stand alone charger, this is not an easy task, because Lithium batteries are the most "delicate" types, charging method is the "strangest" one, I have two stand alone battery chargers that came as gift with some Nokia batteries I bought from an Ebay seller, eventually, I could give you the full schematic so you can construct it (if you want and if you can).
In this way I will not have any more suspects from the batteries.
Second, test each of my chargers, it can be done by connecting a medium -and suitable- load to each charger for some minutes.
A wire wound ceramic resistor should do the trick, ie for the Razr charger (5V, 550mA) I could use a 250mA load, R=V/I, so 5V/.25A equals 20 ohm (1.25W max power, use at least a 2W resistor, 3 or 5W better).
If the internal PDA circuit should be defective, take it to fix or try to fix for yourself.
Hope this helps
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I'm gunna buy another 5v 1a charger .. I've had it reported that this cradle charger (5v 1a) doesn't work properly anyway so it may be 2 seperate problems here Thanks for you advice fella much appreciated
Charging anomaly, workaround
vbJoe said:
...Now I plug my original charger (5v 1a) into the pda and the charge light turns on ..
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Are you absotively, posilutely certain the AMBER charge light comes on fully?
I leave it for an hour and the battery hasn't charged any.. in fact its lost charge as you'd expect if it had been left switched on with no supply.
So.. I plug my motorola krzr charger (5v 550ma) into it and go for a shower/sh*t/shave come back and the battery has gained 10%.. great! atleast I can charge it now.
I also have a desktop cradle charger (5v 1a), same problem.. it sits there forever and a day and discharges... no charge.. (I only got it when I got my new battery so could not prove it before hand)
USB charging works with no problems (not from the cradle one though). So my question is ... Why?...
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Click to collapse
There is some anomaly about charging with a plug-in charger. You may have to turn the device on so that it can recognize the charger, then close it and let it turn itself off; or perhaps it's turn it off then on, I'm not sure, but I've encountered similar oddities with both 110v, 220v, and 12v chargers, and I've seen discussion about this anomaly on this and/or other fora. Once you get the AMBER light, you're fine (as long as it's putting out at least +5v; +5.5 is better).
I think it has something to do with its looking for a [non-existent] USB signal along with the voltage under some conditions, but not others, but that's just a wild guess. Anyway, I don't think there's necessarily anything wrong with your battery, device, or charger. Hope this helps. Cheers,
Thanks for the reply, I'm 100% that the amber light turns on. Not only that the screen brightens so it definitely knows its connected. I've tried several combinations of turning it off/on etc during the charge/before but nothing seems to make this desktop charger actually put anything in the battery.
Hi guys,
I have really huge problem! When i connect my htc tytn to charger ( wall charger or usb, same thing) it drains battery ! There is orange light like it is charging, but it goes from 100% to 0 in an hour! Battery works fine... 2 - 3 days... and because i can't charge it over usb, i am using nokia charger, cut the wires, took battery out and connect + to +, - to - and that's how i charge it for the last few days! Does anyone has any idea why is this happening? I have wm 6.1 pays rom i think it is 3.05
Fire Hazard
i warn angst doing this as this could over charge the battery and when a Lithium Iron or Polymer is over charged they burst into flames or explode and spread nasty toxic chemicals every where. if this be the case it may be time to try a new rom and see if that fixes your problem, try someone elce's charger if this wont fix your problem it may bet time for a new mainboard as these have the charging circuit built in
lithium rechargeable are compact high energy storages devices, and if not charged properly become dangerous
I had charging issues with my 8125 - it would charge with the charger, but when I unplugged the charger (it would read 100%, say I charged from 52% to 100% or something), it would drop really low to like 25% or 23% - sometimes it dropped all the way, and I could no longer get the battery to charge because my travel charger was 500mA and the original charger was 1A - it didn't have enough power.
I had to give it a boost by using a 9V battery and twist ties - touching the battery like you are doing here. I did it for 15 seconds a couple times, popped it in, and it had enough juice to start charging. However, I wouldn't want to do this too long on it as the battery got warm pretty quick and I saw a glimpse of smoke at one point.
After being cautious and not letting it lose charge all the way again, after a few charges it seems to have improved. It no longer drops battery power when unplugging and seems to work as it should.
Not sure if yours drops when you unplug it like mine was, or if it steadily drains while plugged in. Anyways, I thought my charger was just wacked, but it is working fine now after a few charges and being careful and keeping a close eye on things....I also thought it was the battery, but I ordered a new OEM battery, popped it in, and when I unplugged the charger that battery dropped and lost power as well. Now I have two batteries and both seem to work ok, but I did have to play around with them a lot and it did take a few charges before they started working like they should again. I'm not sure what was going on, because it couldn't have been the battery (I replaced it with a new one), and now the charger is acting properly.
Granted, this is all with an 8125 which is older, but there may be something in common here. All I know is it does seem to be fixed and it didn't require any additional purchases or replacements.
sounds like the charging circuits are wacked, this could be caused by dry joints on the charger "smart" chip, but a little heads up with Li-Ion, they don't like gettin wet, (sweat included) once they have been wet they become a fire hazard, (ultramag69 help me out here, remember that one you gave me that was full of mud?!?).
they also don't like going below their threshold voltage of 2.1v per cell, (i think 2.1 for now) after that the battery becomes a resistor and is not worth trying to shock back into life with a 9V battery, as these have a protection circuit built in, as well once in this state they become another fire hazard, it may be worth buying a cheap $30 butane soldering iron with surface mount attachment and just going over some of the areas located round and on the opposite side of the battery, every thing under the silver covers is RF shielded and not worth trying to reflow.
just don't keep the heat on too long, as you may and will desolder components on the opposite side of the board.
other than that if the charger is giving +5 volts respective to its ground, its fine, the difference between the 1A and 500mA chargers is the rate at which its charges the battery, slower is better for Li-Ion due to battery construction for the life span of the battery (if you get more than 6 months out of one your doing good by manufactures standards)
heck even try checking the phones USB connector, it may be stuffed or shorted
What would be a solar charger that would be the most powerful for our phones that want 2.1a(10 watt) charge? I found solar panels that are 10 watts on a dual usb output of only 5 watts(1.0a) per usb slot.
bump?
Wow still nothing. I guess I am the only one that would be interested in a solar charger for our phones lol
solar chargers are dumb. 95% of the cost is voltage regulator, packaging, and shipping.
You end up paying $30+ per watt.
an electromechanical charger is much more cost effective, and doesnt require direct sunlight.
You end up paying ~$1 per watt.
nakedtime said:
solar chargers are dumb. 95% of the cost is voltage regulator, packaging, and shipping.
You end up paying $30+ per watt.
an electromechanical charger is much more cost effective, and doesnt require direct sunlight.
You end up paying ~$1 per watt.
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I'm interested in solar charging but don't know the answer to your question.
Why would a regulator cost a lot? Regulators are super cheap. Solar panels can be expensive.
Also, how would someone use an electromechanical charger? Like a windmill or water wheel or something?
gnoted said:
I'm interested in solar charging but don't know the answer to your question.
Why would a regulator cost a lot? Regulators are super cheap. Solar panels can be expensive.
Also, how would someone use an electromechanical charger? Like a windmill or water wheel or something?
Click to expand...
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I think he means how those cheap crank flashlights work.
bump
still nothing out there for us?
lmike6453 said:
still nothing out there for us?
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There are plenty of solar chargers for iphone, all you need to do is rewire or get adapter and there are things like this:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/190914211655?lpid=82
However I have not used any of those myself, so can't say how effective they're.
All you really need is solar panel with proper voltage output, plug and some Sun. I think they're not that popular due to higher cost and limited use (you need large panel to get higher amperage). Unless you're hiking by foot, even going camping into woods, chances are you have a car as good charging option. Another problem with solar, the best time to charge the phone is at night and that's when you can't do it at all, rain and clouds will also limit your charging ability. The only time I would look into solar panels would be if I was going to explore Amazon jungle or something, but would I get any signal for Google maps to work?
pete4k said:
There are plenty of solar chargers for iphone, all you need to do is rewire or get adapter and there are things like this:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/190914211655?lpid=82
However I have not used any of those myself, so can't say how effective they're.
All you really need is solar panel with proper voltage output, plug and some Sun. I think they're not that popular due to higher cost and limited use (you need large panel to get higher amperage). Unless you're hiking by foot, even going camping into woods, chances are you have a car as good charging option. Another problem with solar, the best time to charge the phone is at night and that's when you can't do it at all, rain and clouds will also limit your charging ability. The only time I would look into solar panels would be if I was going to explore Amazon jungle or something, but would I get any signal for Google maps to work?
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Thanks for the response but I actually own that same exact solar charger lol, it doesn't output anywhere near 2.1 amps that we require for our devices to charge at a normal rate.
As far as the reasoning, it is for camping/hiking and emergencies where you might not have electric and/or gas to burn. For nighttime charge, I own a Biolite campstove for thermal/fire based power.
About the data signal loss, check out true GPS based apps like Navfree USA that i use. Download the map ahead of time, and rely solely on GPS sats like one should
To be honest I had a feeling this does not have output anywhere near it's rating, but it's better than nothing. However, if I may suggest, there are separate battery packs that you could just leave and charge up over the whole day and then hook up to your phone later, if they have enough voltage and capacity, they could work as a charger in the field, even at night. Also in order to get high charging rates, I think you need to fool the phone into thinking it's hooked up to outlet charger. Galaxy S3 had data lines shorted to get that, I'm not sure how does it work with Note3.
Thanks for the map tip.
bump
bump....maybe it's time to look for a lower powered phone
Anyone been able to turn on this phone and run it without a battery with permanent power?
Short answer: not possible.
Longer answer: You would need a pretty hefty engineering brain to figure this out, as the circuitry of the daughter board detects and adjusts the mainboards voltages and such, based on the battery output. When battery output is 0, meaning dead/removed battery, the daughter board doesn't supply voltages to the mainboard.
Now, you could replace the battery with a supercapacitor, but you'd need to have a pretty big one to output the current of a fully charged battery of the 6P - something around the 10kf mark, which IIRC from my university days, is roughly the size of 2 D-cell batteries or so. You'd then need to wire this all in, and even if you made it neat and 3D printed a new back, you went from a slim phone to a small brick. You'd also still need to provide current to charge the super capacitor, which doesn't use normal voltages like the charger and daughterboard can output, so you'd need to add in a voltage regulator board, wire that to the daughterboard, let the DB send current to the mainboard, and since this all outputs a lot of heat, now you run into a serious heating / cooling problem. Add a fan, a larger super capacitor to power said fan, and well, you now have something that looks like a bomb lol.
To touch further on the heat problem - my dash camera has a 10kf SC in it that I wired in instead of the crappy NiCad battery it came with. It was hot enough to keep the snow melted through the windshield on its own with 12v 1a current - roughly 20% of the current the wall charger of the 6p provides. It didn't keep the whole windshield free, rather, a spot large enough to let the camera do its thing without issue.
Thanks Wiltron for your reply. Doesn't seem worth it for me to go through that much trouble to be honest, besides, having something in your car that looks like a bomb these days will get me more attention than I want. I do have to say that I'm able to power the phone with just the charger connected, but up to a certain point, when the cpu spikes while booting it runs short of power and shuts off. Same thing when I'm fully booted into android, I disconnect the battery and it will stay running up to the point where I start some app or even just turn the phone on its side and the phone just goes dark. I'm thinking that the daughterboard does provide power to the motherboard without a battery, but just not enough. Do you think a heftier charger might overload the circuitry of the phone?
cbgreen said:
Do you think a heftier charger might overload the circuitry of the phone?
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It can provide as much current as normal operations permit, however just make sure the cable and charger are official and supported, like Benson certified cables and a decent quality car charger like Anker.
Don't go crazy with the 50amp 120v brick chargers for cars, but don't grab the cheap ass gas station 0.5a 5v 4 for $10 special either
Tronsmart has good ones - I use one personally that has the certified USB C cable built into it.. minimal issues other than the thing does get hot