hi, i want to ask you about this
yesterday a ****ing guy tried to steal my android and he didn't get it, but he managed to break my headphones, so i have to buy a new ones
i had the lg stock ones that were pretty cool (i think)
but well, you know more than i so, wich one would you recommend? if possible if you know that they are in Argentina, way better XD
and what is better, the simple headphones, i mean, the ones inside the ears, or the big ones like the dj ones and stuff, that cover all the ear?
also i'd like to have at least one button, so i can change the song! if more buttons, of course better but well, i don't want to buy headphones that are more expensive that the phone itself XD
hope you can help me soon, so i can buy them today
thanks!
I'm currently using the iPhone/iPod headphones (the ones that have the mic and button on them) because my Skullcandy ones broke. They are actually pretty good, which was a surprise (as you may know, Apple headphones of old were terrible)
Note: The button and mic DO work on the GT540.
The dj style ones are good when djing and you need good bass reverb and noise cancellation otherwise in ear is better for on the go
As for buttons to change song etc i find setting the vol buttons or cam button work fine and dont really need them on the headphones but to each there own
Im currently using a pair of sennheisers that i got for around 40 dollars and they are amazing very very loud but no distortion and good bass
I listen to mostly dubstep and electrohouse so ive been through quite a few different brands and styles
Sent from my tf101 using xda premium 1.54Ghz
sennheiser cx 300 in-ear, I dont linke using big headphones in street y los venden en Musimundo. Maybe a little expensive but they are excellent. Be carefully about fakes one, specially in mercadolibre.
I had these earphones http://www.canyon-tech.com/products/audio_video/headphones/CNR-EP8
they are nothing fancy but they have really good bass response. Anyway cable near jack broke so I used LG headphones that came with the phone and opened that plastic casing where the mic and the button are. Then removed old earphones (they were quite ****ty ) and soldered Canyon ones. Put everything back and glued plastic casing (it was glued already so it needed a bit force to open it).
The result is this
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They are now serving me very well.
Just an idea if you have old earphones at home and a little spare time
Just any headphones in the 20 dollar price range. No use buying more expensive ones as output of the GT540 cannot provide a full potential.
MrAndroid12 said:
Just any headphones in the 20 dollar price range. No use buying more expensive ones as output of the GT540 cannot provide a full potential.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
somebody of you gys know why my headset always gets destroyed? had a pair of Philips they had good q2uality but some day i always get the headphones to stop playing one side it's about the connection between the headphone and the jack where to put it in. with much pressure it sometimes play both sides then but not very long now i have to use some ****ty 1 € ones
what am i doing wrong ?
andreas__ said:
somebody of you gys know why my headset always gets destroyed? had a pair of Philips they had good q2uality but some day i always get the headphones to stop playing one side it's about the connection between the headphone and the jack where to put it in. with much pressure it sometimes play both sides then but not very long now i have to use some ****ty 1 € ones
what am i doing wrong ?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Are you pulling the cable a lot, or how do you wear them? Mine earphones often last a year. After that cable close to jack always breaks. Try to replace the jack on your Phillips earphones with some other jack, they should work. Also when buying new headphones always look out to buy earphones with 90 degrees angle jack instead straight ones.
darko94 said:
Are you pulling the cable a lot, or how do you wear them? Mine earphones often last a year. After that cable close to jack always breaks. Try to replace the jack on your Phillips earphones with some other jack, they should work. Also when buying new headphones always look out to buy earphones with 90 degrees angle jack instead straight ones.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
i have them in my pocket and they were 180 degree but they never break .. only this problem
i would say i dont pull too often but might be the problem
will try to replace the jack but for now i have to learn :/
xDD
edit: aargh damn tried it though but no success so wasted time ?
i wish i were better in such things
andreas__ said:
i have them in my pocket and they were 180 degree but they never break .. only this problem
i would say i dont pull too often but might be the problem
will try to replace the jack but for now i have to learn :/
xDD
edit: aargh damn tried it though but no success so wasted time ?
i wish i were better in such things
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
These wires are thin so you will have to solder them toghether. While soldering wires plug the jack into phone and play some music and put them in ears so you can hear when you have made a good contact. Its a tricky job so you will have to be patient. Also if earphones have casing for mic and button you could open it and solder wires in there so the solder isnt visible.
Also from what i can see from image that jack has two cables. In first is GND and Left channel and in other is GND and Right channel. Ussually channels are red, blue or green color, and ground is often yellow, gold, black or brown.
Good luck
darko94 said:
These wires are thin so you will have to solder them toghether. While soldering wires plug the jack into phone and play some music and put them in ears so you can hear when you have made a good contact. Its a tricky job so you will have to be patient. Also if earphones have casing for mic and button you could open it and solder wires in there so the solder isnt visible.
Also from what i can see from image that jack has two cables. In first is GND and Left channel and in other is GND and Right channel. Ussually channels are red, blue or green color, and ground is often yellow, gold, black or brown.
Good luck
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
oh wow
so in the first are blue & yellow and the other one red & yellow
there is no case i would have tried that only the soldering is what i didn't tried will be the solution thanks
andreas__ said:
somebody of you gys know why my headset always gets destroyed? had a pair of Philips they had good q2uality but some day i always get the headphones to stop playing one side it's about the connection between the headphone and the jack where to put it in. with much pressure it sometimes play both sides then but not very long now i have to use some ****ty 1 € ones
what am i doing wrong ?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I haven't had any broken philips headphones even after heavy abused; Shared it, wrapped it around device, tossed in washing machine.
2 years ago had Skullcandy Full Metal Jack and they broke automatically as if there were a chip to dislocate the wires to either headphone jack or speaker itself. I kept them into a case, never put stress onto the wire. Still managing to be replaced twice in a year on warranty. All three broke within 3-4 months of use.
My Sennheiser CX500 never had such problem. It is a little more than one year old.
It is the matter of built quality and I believe manufactures have purposely made higher end headphones less durable. It is to get consumers hook into premium sound before breaking. The matter of demand and profit.
Hi i used two kind of brands :
Mobo its works and sounds great but the problema is de mic dont works fine.
Phillips for ipod, this second is great and very powerful sound.
Related
Heard that the speakers was alot better on the Universal then it is on the Wizard? Can anyone confirm that the speakers _are_ better on the Universal thanks.
reply
DUDE -
i donno who told u that !
although i have no comparison to other - the HTC universal speakers are WEAK !
i had to amplify all mp3's i wanted as tones by 20-30% (volume) so ill hear them.
and quality isnt great..
Oh that sucks
hmm..that strange..I dun see any issue on soft speaker on my universal. The ringtone is loud and so thus the MP3.
I have both and find both speakers fine. Either the headphone output is better on the wizard or the headphones themselves because the sound it a lot better through headphones on the wizard.
What really annoys me with those little headphones though is that they dont go into your ear properly. Push them in with your fingers and the bass is really good. Then when you let go your back to tinny sound again.
Thought headphones would have moved on by now. Where are our microbe implants that are equiv to having some 400w technics strapped to your head.
I have to agree with the others, my EXEC's speakers are loud if turned to full blast. I can hear my MP3s playing from the other room with my door closed.
knowsleyroader said:
What really annoys me with those little headphones though is that they dont go into your ear properly. Push them in with your fingers and the bass is really good. Then when you let go your back to tinny sound again.
Thought headphones would have moved on by now. Where are our microbe implants that are equiv to having some 400w technics strapped to your head.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You can get headphones that do just that, from Sony, Shure and Etymotic, but to get that bass response they have to seal the ear with rubber rings. Cost aside, that raises serious safety issues for general use because it isolates you from external sounds. So they can be dangerous wearing them outside, as you won't hear the cry of "Look Out!" or that speeding truck hurtling towards you.
That said, I have some Shure e3cs, and they are stunning. What's more they're better for my hearing long term because I can keep the volume levels right down and still hear the finest detail in the music. I just have to be _very_ careful when crossing the road...
Ineedtoys said:
knowsleyroader said:
What really annoys me with those little headphones though is that they dont go into your ear properly. Push them in with your fingers and the bass is really good. Then when you let go your back to tinny sound again.
Thought headphones would have moved on by now. Where are our microbe implants that are equiv to having some 400w technics strapped to your head.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You can get headphones that do just that, from Sony, Shure and Etymotic, but to get that bass response they have to seal the ear with rubber rings. Cost aside, that raises serious safety issues for general use because it isolates you from external sounds. So they can be dangerous wearing them outside, as you won't hear the cry of "Look Out!" or that speeding truck hurtling towards you.
That said, I have some Shure e3cs, and they are stunning. What's more they're better for my hearing long term because I can keep the volume levels right down and still hear the finest detail in the music. I just have to be _very_ careful when crossing the road...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Can you get them with the smaller jack for the wizard ? Link ?
knowsleyroader said:
Can you get them with the smaller jack for the wizard ? Link ?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Get an adapter then you can use any headphones you like.
Maplin and Expansys do these:-
http://www.expansys.com/product.asp?code=108470
But I prefer not to use the "one piece" moulded adapters as they put too much stress on the XDA socket. So I use one like this:-
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=5852006398
(you get one like this with the £99 Orange C550 Music pack)
Downside is you have to unplug the headphones to talk, but I note you can now get them with a microphone (but AFAIK no talk button):-
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=5851815612
Or you could get one that allows you to use your audio headphones and a headset together:-
http://www.expansys.com/product.asp?code=119236
Another alternative, if you're handy with a soldering iron, is to take a spare HTC headset, dismantle the dongle that houses the talk button, disconnect the crappy headphones, and solder in your new ones, or, to be more versatile, the 3.5mm wired socket from one of the cheap adapters.
http://www.howardforums.com/showthread.php?t=523654&page=1&pp=30
Or buy it ready made, but with retractable cord, here:-
http://www.seidio-europe.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=230
(Note: Seidio's web page indicates the PTT and Mic wiring is the same for the XDA and the Treo, but I haven't tried it, so YMMV etc).
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http://www.pcmag.com/article2/0,1895,2305346,00.asp
"It's also about half the thickness of the original and weighs just 0.4 ounces."
"It's certainly more comfortable than the previous model, which I had on hand for comparison's sake."
"In use, the new Jawbone simply sounded excellent."
"How it sounds to other callers is what matters most, however, and here the New Jawbone's performance was breathtaking. In a series of calls plus 15 voicemail tests, the New Jawbone sounded full-bodied, warm, and detailed—and, with the noise canceling circuitry engaged, there was no background noise whatsoever."
"But the New Jawbone's noise canceling performance was simply spectacular."
OK, I think I'm ready to take the plunge and get one now.
Blue Ant is releasing a Z9i next week that should give the new Jawbone a run for its money. Plus, you can pre order it for $79.99 on Mobilecity.com
http://www.myblueant.com/z9i_black_headset.htm
Whichever one has better wind cancellation gets my $.
The current Z9 hardly works when I step outside on a typical Chicago day.
My H12 works great even with the top off my Jeep.
P1Tater said:
My H12 works great even with the top off my Jeep.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Well my biggest problem is Voice Command. When I am in the car, or the supermarket it works fine and understands my commands.
However the minute i step outside with even moderate winds it doesn't respond at all...which means that it isn't anywhere near recognizing (or hearing) what I am saying.
I'm glad the motopure h12 works for you, but people said the same thing about the jawbone and z9...that they used theirs in increible noisy environments, or in their convertible and had no issues.
Unfortunately, I don't see the h12 for sale at any big-box stores, and I'm not willing to pay 2-way shipping just to try it out.
With the spring upon us, I will be outside more often. We all know it is difficult to see the screen in sunlight, so I find using MSVC to dial my calls is a must. Are you using MSVC with your H12? If you have the opportunity to try it out and see if it still picks up your commands while speeding down in your jeep, I would be interested to know...
thx
I'd like to congratulate Aliph on releasing a product while giving next to no technical details about it.
I mean... is it BT 2? Can it simulate A2DP? Seriously, details Aliph, details. NOBODY has specs on this thing.
http://www.jawbone.com/pr_008.aspx
Supports Bluetooth® 1.1, 1.2, and 2.0
Rogue9 said:
http://www.jawbone.com/pr_008.aspx
Supports Bluetooth® 1.1, 1.2, and 2.0
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That's some good detective work there. And thanks for the info, but Aliph shouldn't be making people find a press release just to get the kind of information that should be clearly on display. They outta fix that
Rogue9 said:
http://www.jawbone.com/pr_008.aspx
Supports Bluetooth® 1.1, 1.2, and 2.0
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Magnetic USB cable & wall charger included
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I know about magnetic USB... but I wonder how they will be implementing this? Are they providing a plate or something to lay the headset on to charge inductively?
Seems to be plenty of info here + a nice ear to see it displayed on.
http://jawbone.com/index.aspx
I am going to give it a try as I have been very dissappointed with my Jabra BT8040. I never have been able to get it to stay in my ear. I need one with an ear loop.
I got mine in the mail Monday, to replace the JB1.
Works better than the old JB. As for the magnetic coupling, what it is, is a usb connector, which plugs into the AC adapter, or a usb port. On the other end, is the plug that hooks to the jawbone. Inside the connector, in the middle, are the
4 contacts to charge it. On either side of that, are two tiny squares, which are magnetic. The end of the jawbone has a piece of metal on the inside, which holds the charger connector on the jawbone.
Here's a cell phone photo, should help.
bengalih said:
I know about magnetic USB... but I wonder how they will be implementing this? Are they providing a plate or something to lay the headset on to charge inductively?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
p51d007 said:
I got mine in the mail Monday, to replace the JB1.
Works better than the old JB. As for the magnetic coupling, what it is, is a usb connector, which plugs into the AC adapter, or a usb port. On the other end, is the plug that hooks to the jawbone. Inside the connector, in the middle, are the
4 contacts to charge it. On either side of that, are two tiny squares, which are magnetic. The end of the jawbone has a piece of metal on the inside, which holds the charger connector on the jawbone.
Here's a cell phone photo, should help.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks...that's kind of a rip off though. It looks no different than any other type of charging cradle except instead of being held in place by plastic nibs or something it is being held by a magnet.
When I think of magnetic USB, I think of those new charging mats that they have whereby you place a device with a special outer casing and it sticks to the mat and charges through induction.
I could have my terms wrong...but that's what I was expecting.
If you've ever been in a best buy, and have seen one of the mac laptops with the power adapter, appears they got the idea from something like that I guess.
I know I like the new one better. I popped the cap on my old jawbone, but a tiny drop of super glue fixed that
LOL...I've been to Chicago a few times, if they get ANYTHING to work in that
wind, they would definitely have something! Heck, they should set up a "wind test lab" in Chicago!
bengalih said:
The current Z9 hardly works when I step outside on a typical Chicago day.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Well,
I just sold my Z9 on ebay after reading some other reviews where others agreed that it just didn't perform in any wind.
I have an extra cardio scala-800 I am going to unbox and use until I decide if I want the motopure, z9i, or new jawbone.
p51d007 said:
If you've ever been in a best buy, and have seen one of the mac laptops with the power adapter, appears they got the idea from something like that I guess.
I know I like the new one better. I popped the cap on my old jawbone, but a tiny drop of super glue fixed that
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I really detest these proprietary connectors.
As far as I am concerned, any device should be able to use a mini-usb connector, or it very small, a micro-usb connector.
Almost every single device out there can be charged off a laptop, which means they all take USB current input (5v). For those that take less, a universal charger could provide voltage regulation, but the form factor can still remain mini/micro usb.
If a device is so small that micro USB connector won't fit, then I probably don't want it as it would be too easy to lose. I'm sure by the time they make a BT headset that fits in your ear canal induction based charging will be more widespread.
This grudge isn't just against phones and BT headsets, it is one reason I will never buy an ipod.
Unless the new z9 or the H12 (haven't investigated yet) is also using proprietary (and thus I am out of options), I don't think I will be buying the new Jawbone.
p51d007 said:
I popped the cap on my old jawbone, but a tiny drop of super glue fixed that
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Haha, exactly what I did to fix mine!
Just got my jawbone 2 and I have to say this is the best headset I've used. Coming from a Plantronics Discovery 655. Works perfectly with Voice Command. I thought the lack of buttons was going to be a problem, but I got used to it quick.
However, it is really pricey. I ended up paying $140 direct from jawbone after tax and shipping. Hopefully once online shops starts stocking these the price will come down.
"review" of JB2
I did a non scientific review of my thoughts on the new jawbone on the AT&T
website. Instead of adding a new thread, here's a link. Just click on the
review tab when you get there.
http://www.wireless.att.com/cell-phone-service/accessory-details/?q_categoryid=cat1370023&q_sku=sku2560219&q_manufacturer=&q_model=&wtSlotClick=1-0011T9-1-1
akadonny said:
Just got my jawbone 2 and I have to say this is the best headset I've used. Coming from a Plantronics Discovery 655. Works perfectly with Voice Command. I thought the lack of buttons was going to be a problem, but I got used to it quick.
However, it is really pricey. I ended up paying $140 direct from jawbone after tax and shipping. Hopefully once online shops starts stocking these the price will come down.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Donny, if by Voice Command you mean MS Voice Command, would you be able to do some tests in a windy environment for me? I don't think rolling with the windows down suffices, because that really just creates noise, not really wind.
I'm in chicago, so I don't really need to simulate but maybe a blow dryer or something if you can't find any natural wind?
When i use my Z9 outside MSVC doesn't even register that I've said anything.
I'm going to wait until the Z9i until i make my next decision, as I would rather have the micro-usb charging, and I honestly think I prefer the look of the blueant. However, if the wind-cancellation/noise-suppression is far superior on the JB, I may go with that.
Also, in the below pic, what is the little clear plastic nub on the tip for?
Hi guys,
Just incase you havent heard.
Powermat support the HD2 now.
http://www.powermat.com/us/receivers/htc/receiver-door-for-htc-hd2.html
Bad news is that its sold out!
you can but the bundle for $59.99 which included the battery door and a powermat
that is not bad at all considering with the tp2 you had to add this bulky backpiece. Might be a good x-mas investment seeing how we have 3 hd2's laying around.
Hi,
Does anyone know if its work with a cover , you know, I mean a hard cover for HD2 ? No interference ?
I just don't get why ppl like this kind of stuff. Don't we get enough RF/EM around us already ? Why add some more, needlessly ?
i want one!!! gimme gimme gimme!!!
I just don't get why ppl like this kind of stuff. Don't we get enough RF/EM around us already ? Why add some more, needlessly ?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Don't worry mate.. That tin-foil hat you are undoubtedly wearing will protect you...
just a gimmick item. people will realize this sooner (or later)
richteralan said:
just a gimmick item. people will realize this sooner (or later)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
kind of like booting android on a winmo phone?
what's gimmicky about it? Being able to charge up to 3 hd2's through 1 plug means less cords on my desk which will make my wife very happy. I have the energizer mat for the wii remotes and it's easy to throw them on the mat after playing to have them recharge.
Airborne Aircrew said:
Don't worry mate.. That tin-foil hat you are undoubtedly wearing will protect you...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That's my head, but what about my balls ?! Nobody invented a tin-foil balls protection yet. Hmmm , maybe i should start selling that
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But, actually, my post wasn't a joke. Those things work like a transformer, the mat got the primary winding, the phone part got the secondary one. Even if nothing is charging, it's just a damn coil plugged into the wall, 'transmitting' the mains frequency into the air, pointlessly. Maybe it is completely harmless, but maybe it isn't. And since i usually charge my phone at night, and keep it nearby, this would mean putting this stupid field emitter just next to my head, just for the sake of not plugging a connector in ? Sorry, but no thanks.
InfX said:
That's my head, but what about my balls ?! Nobody invented a tin-foil balls protection yet. Hmmm , maybe i should start selling that
But, actually, my post wasn't a joke. Those things work like a transformer, the mat got the primary winding, the phone part got the secondary one. Even if nothing is charging, it's just a damn coil plugged into the wall, 'transmitting' the mains frequency into the air, pointlessly. Maybe it is completely harmless, but maybe it isn't. And since i usually charge my phone at night, and keep it nearby, this would mean putting this stupid field emitter just next to my head, just for the sake of not plugging a connector in ? Sorry, but no thanks.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
um, you do know that the way these pads work is thru electro-magnetic induction right? basically a oscillating magnet (a magnet that moves or "vibrates") in the pad produces a electric charge in a wire in the cover that coverts the magnetc field into a charge... from my understanding its the oscillation rate that prevents it from affecting anything else but the wire in the cover.. if your afraid of this you might as well be afraid of refrigerator magnets too.. or hell, any electro-magnetic device.. the speaker in the phone, the alternator in your car, your fan...
You have a strange way of representing it (an oscillating magnet ? well, fair enough, an oscillating magnet would certainly create a similar magnetic field).
You are actually correct here, I would NOT want to have an electric motor, a big transformer, alternator, or anything similarly powerful, that emits strong magnetic fields, at about a meter from my head, for an extended period of time, and thats exactly where my phone usually is at nights. Nor i would like a strong DC magnet right next to me all the time. Would you like to be in an MRI room, needlessly ? And, btw, the fact the 'receiver' is tuned to the transmitter frequency doesn't prevent the transmitter from affecting everything else around. Wanna see for yourself ? Try dropping a small metal object on that mat, it should start buzzing on it like crazy, lol. And if it doesn't, the thing probably operates on RF frequencies, that's even worse
PS: The phone speaker and fridge magnets are off the list here for obvious reason, having a very 'low power' fields.
Looking at PowerMat's FAQs, looks like it won't work if you have it in a case. Too bad. Wish it'd work with my otterbox.
Check out the review of the powermat cover for a BlackBerry. Shows it works with a silicon cover
http://www.youtube.com/user/howardchui#p/u/5/5i36QBcZBb8
Anybody able to get their hands on one for the HD2 yet?
Got mine from Walmart - $49.97. Kinda touchy about where you place your HD2 on the mat. Plus I can't use my clear case with it because the door is too bubbled out. The good thing is, I can still use velcro on the door. It will make sufficient connection through the velcro.
MartyLK said:
Got mine from Walmart - $49.97. Kinda touchy about where you place your HD2 on the mat. Plus I can't use my clear case with it because the door is too bubbled out. The good thing is, I can still use velcro on the door. It will make sufficient connection through the velcro.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hello my friend!
Could you take some real photos of the product and put here??
I would like to buy one, but i doubt that if fits with the Otterbox Commuter Case..
Thanks!!
digao100nocao said:
Hello my friend!
Could you take some real photos of the product and put here??
I would like to buy one, but i doubt that if fits with the Otterbox Commuter Case..
Thanks!!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I could be wrong, but I doubt that it would work through the rubber and plastic of the OtterBoxes.
I wish they had some type of conductive filament that you could put on the inside and outside of the case.
apallohadas said:
I could be wrong, but I doubt that it would work through the rubber and plastic of the OtterBoxes.
I wish they had some type of conductive filament that you could put on the inside and outside of the case.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I think it would charge, but will disconnect more easy..
Well.. I would like to try it anyway..
If someone have one of these units, please take some pictures of it in the HD2.
It would be great to see how it is in real..
Thanks!
Hello, I want to buy it but I'm in France and the official site does not send to France (and in the French version of the site this product doesn't exist!), on ebay is the same thing!
Someone have another site who can ship it in my country please?
Thanks, I want it!
InfX said:
But, actually, my post wasn't a joke. Those things work like a transformer, the mat got the primary winding, the phone part got the secondary one. Even if nothing is charging, it's just a damn coil plugged into the wall, 'transmitting' the mains frequency into the air, pointlessly. Maybe it is completely harmless, but maybe it isn't. And since i usually charge my phone at night, and keep it nearby, this would mean putting this stupid field emitter just next to my head, just for the sake of not plugging a connector in ? Sorry, but no thanks.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It's transmitting only a magnetic field. Are you really worried about that?
Reminds me of the NIMBYs who cried about having power cables nearby, then I see 'health magnets' advertised in magazines
What about the phone signal?
And WiFi? TV and Radio transmitters? EMF from power cables? There are many things throwing radio/light/radiation signals at us all day.
EDIT: I just saw your more recent post. Electromagneteic Conduction is the technology used, as stated by the company themselves
Hey guys,
I took a quick look inside the G Pad and want you to show how to open it and what it looks like there.
How to Open
What you need is a pry-tool, a small screw driver and some plectrums. Something to heat would be perfect as well.
First, you should remove the screw that is inside the microSD-slot:
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Next, you take the pry tool and get the device out of the chassis. Apply the pry-tool to the gap between frame and screen. As soon as you lifted off one of the short sides a bit, you stick there one of the plectrums carefully. Then you go on with the other sides.
When all sides are lifted off the device from the frame, you still won't be able to get rid of the rear panel. Unfortunately there is glue in the middle between battery and case, so a bit of heat wouldn't be bad. I took a blow-dryer to avoid bad times with my battery
Internals
And here we are:
You can clearly see the adhesive pad in the middle.
The case:
At the top of the picture between the two speaker-holes there is the serial number label as it is on the bottom of our back side. Right, you can see a thermal foil for the powerful chips. On the left side there is a little blue box. It could probably be the vibration motor (thanks to Ardion)
Closer look to the controllers:
After taking of the heatsink we get a look at the controller-chips. On the left side there is a Qualcomm PM8921 who cares for the power-management. The middle chip is still covered, I will embrace it later. The last chip is our NAND flash, it's a Toshiba THGBM5G7A2JBAIR
The top side:
At the very high top of the picture there is the 3.5mm sound-connector. Below is our microSD-Slot.
The flat wire that is mounted by two screws is from our battery. I have even found a spare part, so it would be possible to replace the battery.
The connector at the bottom of the picture leads us to the next part:
Power button and volume rockers:
Between the two volume buttons there is even a label LGV500 on it. So it might be a V500 exclusive part
Blame my camera for the bad macro function..
You are the SoC, aren't you?
So there we have a Hynix memory with H9TKNNNBPDMA-ARNGM on it. I couldn't find any information about it, but it seems that there is our RAM combined with the Snapdragon 600?
Mainboard detached
There we have our two cameras. The left one as rear-facing and the right one front-facing.
Mainboard the other way round
Not much to see, but there is a black box at the right. There a two bulbs, one should be the brightness-sensor, but the other one?
Don't use the tab in the bathtub
The paper strip with crosses seems to be a indicator for the manufacturer. If you have a damage caused by water the crosses will disappear and LG won't be your friend any more. It is very clever placed at the SD-card-slot, where the water-cooling will first take effect
Sh1tty camera
There you have the rear-facing camera. I wasn't able to get it out of there, probably I have to dismount the board first..
Down left of the camera, there is our IR-blaster.
The Battery
There it is. 4.600 mAh
Worst speaker of the world
With my first G Pad I had trouble with one of the speakers. It sounded very muffled and vibrated a lot. The new one sounds better, but not more..
The whole speaker strip is attached by three screws. The one at the bottom right didn't want to go my way, so I had to stop disassembling
The bottom side
ATMEL controller in the middle. Could be the touchscreen-controller (thanks to Ardion)
USB connector
At the left side you can see the USB connector. At the right there seems to be the microphone. The two connectors between them are connected to the blue box that I have already mentioned.
Summing up, it's no easy job to get to the battery. There are a lot of flat wires that have first to be disconnected. A lot things have to be dismounted as well.
The mainboard on the other side is good accessible and can be replaced easily.
That's all, I hope you liked it.
Replacing the screen
Turn over to iruiz2's post to see additional pictures and get to know how to replace the screen:
iruiz2 said:
...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I think the Atmel chip at the bottom is a touchscreen controller.
The little blue box looks like the vibration motor.
Great job! If you discover a replacement battery somewhere, please update with that information.
woody1 said:
Great job! If you discover a replacement battery somewhere, please update with that information.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Good news!
I just searched again and actually I found one: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Bateria-Bat...101-BL-T10-4600mAh-New-ORIGINAL-/161171869316 :good::good:
Start post is edited.
It would be great if someone could make a battery replacement tutorial video. I mean when the time is right, I guess the batteries are too new to be replaced!
Sent from my LG-V500 using xda app-developers app
sergio7676 said:
It would be great if someone could make a battery replacement tutorial video.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I will think about it. Cause it should be enough to detach the upper and lower wires. Though this is no easy intervention as there is a wire adhesived near the USB connector.
I added two pictures with the mainboard detached.
So that is a lot easier than the battery..
Perhaps there is enough space to adapt and inegrate a qi-receiver!
Cheers
Spock
LtSpock said:
Perhaps there is enough space to adapt and inegrate a qi-receiver!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I don't think that this is a good idea. The metallic backside would shield the magnetic radiation and you wouldn't get any power
Interesting thread thanks! If I were to take my tab apart I would never be able to put it back together again in working order
Must require a great deal of skill & patience to do this.
Great job. I was wondering how to open up this baby. Now I know this has a one piece back plate.
How long did your blow dry it? Have you tried to remove the glue and see if it loose or make any squeaky noises?
cutterline said:
How long did your blow dry it? Have you tried to remove the glue and see if it loose or make any squeaky noises?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You don't need much heat. I just used it about half a minute and then the glue loses his power. With constant force to the back plate you can feel how the glue-strip is slowly peeling away from the back plate.
I haven't tried to remove the glue, cause it is attached to the battery..
Thanks for the reply.
Do you have the service manual before doing this or just found it out after tinkering for a while?
If you have the service manual, can you share the link? It seems I couldn't find them (including the GPE pad v510)
No service manual. I tried it myself
What a great man! Thank you for bestowing a good knowledge upon mankind especially lg g pad user
It would be more awesome if you can record the process of disassembling the case apart.
This thread needs to be in a sticky.
cutterline said:
What a great man! Thank you for bestowing a good knowledge upon mankind especially lg g pad user
It would be more awesome if you can record the process of disassembling the case apart.
This thread needs to be in a sticky.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks!
I will think about it soon. First, I have to order a tripod for my cam
Really interesting, thanks! I love people who risk bricking their device for the good of the community :good:
think there's space to hide a full-size SD card with a (SD->microSD) adapter inside?
eg:
http://www.dx.com/p/sd-to-microsd-transflash-card-converter-module-27001
https://www.google.com/search?site=&tbm=isch&source=hp&biw=1120&bih=612&q=SD+to+microSD
paperWastage said:
think there's space to hide a full-size SD card with a (SD->microSD) adapter inside?
eg:
http://www.dx.com/p/sd-to-microsd-transflash-card-converter-module-27001
https://www.google.com/search?site=&tbm=isch&source=hp&biw=1120&bih=612&q=SD+to+microSD
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The only possible space would be between battery and back-cover. But I dunno whether 0.16 in are free there, it might be less.
I could measure it for you when I am shooting the video.
USB connector replacement?
Can anyone advise if it's possible to replace the USB connector?
I spilled a tiny amount of water my G Pad. I didn't think it got to the internals, but after charging it overnight the cable was stuck in the connector (like really stuck) and had obviously baked itself in.
I got it loose after spraying with isopropyl alcohol, and it somehow still charges, but the connection is bad and getting worse.
Any clues?
Ever thought that the vibrate motor in your OnePlus One is too weak? Want to upgrade it to a stronger one? Well, now you can, at the expense of one of the two mono speakers in the speaker block, and your warranty. Not for the faint of heart, perform at your own risk.
What you will need:
Tools and disassembly/reassembly instructions from this thread: http://forum.xda-developers.com/oneplus-one/general/repair-guide-oneplus-one-disassembly-t2979351 (shameless plug)
A coin vibration motor (a 10 mm x 3 mm one that runs at about 3 V, either sourced from a phone that has one, or online (something like this but doesn't have to be exactly this)
Hot-air rework gun and Kapton tape
Reasonably proficient soldering skills
Step 1
Disassemble the OnePlus One. We need to remove the speaker block and speaker flex from the phone. Everything else can stay put.
Step 2
Using a knife, remove the speaker that shares its enclosure with the vibrate motor from the speaker block.
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Step 3
Remove the speaker foam lining from the flex to prevent it from melting later on.
Step 4
Remove the vibrate motor by either:
Desoldering the whole thing, motor contacts and all, using a rework gun
Desolder the individual contacts first using a soldering iron, then the motor itself with a rework gun
Then re-install the flex into the phone.
Step 5
Install the motor onto the flex. You can do it by eye, or stick it inside of the speaker block first, installing it so the motor sticks to the flex then removing the speaker block.
Step 6
Solder the wires to the contacts. Positive is closer to the USB port, negative is closer to the battery. Make sure neither are touching the large conductive area where the old motor used to be. It should be ground, but test it before using it. Foam padding on the motor is recommended. The motor should come with one, but if it doesn't it should matter too much.
Step 7
Reassemble the phone.
Done! It was pretty self-explanatory - disassemble the phone to get to the relevant parts, remove the old motor, installing a new one, and reassembling it. I think the most important part is showing that it is possible to remove the motor and the method of doing so.
How it sounds now:
Some notes:
The motor will require more time to spin up, so the stock duration for haptic feedback may not be long enough, depending on your motor
There wasn't any noticeable decrease in volume on my end, but your speakers might be quieter than before. The original dual mono configuration had both speakers wired up in parallel, so removing one speaker allows the other to receive the power that the two speakers used to receive. The OnePlus One had louder than average speakers to begin with, so removing one would make it closer to average.
This process is technically reversible, given that the speaker and vibrate motor are both removed intact. Resoldering the base of the original vibrate motor might be a bit tricky though.
amazing replacement op. is this vibration motor more noticeable than the one you replaced? this is not what i like with the one. the slow and almost unnoticeable vibration if its on my pocket.
reyscott1968 said:
amazing replacement op. is this vibration motor more noticeable than the one you replaced? this is not what i like with the one. the slow and almost unnoticeable vibration if its on my pocket.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes, it is much more noticeable than the old one. The great thing is, if the motor is coming from another phone, you can test how strong it is before installing it!
Great Mod. Moments like this is what Xda is all about. :highfive:
Albeit I personally haven't a reason to do it.
YaKillaCJ said:
Great Mod. Moments like this is what Xda is all about. :highfive:
Albeit I personally haven't a reason to do it.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Well the Galaxy S3 has a nice LRA motor, so there's no need!
vantt1 said:
Well the Galaxy S3 has a nice LRA motor, so there's no need!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I actually have a OnePlus One. Just haven't changed my signature in awhile.
Thanks dude. I was wondering if such a modification was possible since people started talking about the motor in the oneplus two. I just miss too much notification since it is so weak. Like someone else said, I hear it more than I can feel it.
I thought LRA motors needed an AC signal like a speaker? Anyway, great mod!
SupeBelt said:
I thought LRA motors needed an AC signal like a speaker? Anyway, great mod!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It's a coin vibration motor, which runs off a DC source.
Also, can you hear it more than before? I want to feel the phone, not hear it.
I've done this mod with a little change. I removed the speaker from the other side and soldered the new motor to the old one without removing it (i dont own a hot gun). To get the cables to the other side, you have to cut a little "tunnel" in the plastic of the speakers case. The 2 motors are working simultaneously, the vibration is a lot stronger than before. The original motor responds fast (for typing etc.) and the new one slower but stronger. The downside of the modification is the loss of volume. Its not quiet but not as loud as before. I wouldn't recommend it when you are using the 1+1 as a navigation system in the car with the inbuilt speakers. Ringtones and media are still loud enough. I'm using my modded 1+1 since 2 weeks and missed a lot less calls and messages.
greetings
lennsen said:
I've done this mod with a little change. I removed the speaker from the other side and soldered the new motor to the old one without removing it (i dont own a hot gun). To get the cables to the other side, you have to cut a little "tunnel" in the plastic of the speakers case. The 2 motors are working simultaneously, the vibration is a lot stronger than before. The original motor responds fast (for typing etc.) and the new one slower but stronger. The downside of the modification is the loss of volume. Its not quiet but not as loud as before. I wouldn't recommend it when you are using the 1+1 as a navigation system in the car with the inbuilt speakers. Ringtones and media are still loud enough. I'm using my modded 1+1 since 2 weeks and missed a lot less calls and messages.
greetings
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Nice! That's like a twincharger, but with vibrate motors!
I love hardware mods, but this one confuses me. The vibration motor in the oneplus 2 is awful, why would you want to use a coin type?
Sent from my A0001 using Tapatalk
xxBrun0xx said:
I love hardware mods, but this one confuses me. The vibration motor in the oneplus 2 is awful, why would you want to use a coin type?
Sent from my A0001 using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Still better than the OPO's motor ¯¯\_(ツ)_/¯¯
vantt1 said:
Ever thought that the vibrate motor in your OnePlus One is too weak? Want to upgrade it to a stronger one? Well, now you can, at the expense of one of the two mono speakers in the speaker block, and your warranty. Not for the faint of heart, perform at your own risk.
What you will need:
Tools and disassembly/reassembly instructions from this thread: http://forum.xda-developers.com/oneplus-one/general/repair-guide-oneplus-one-disassembly-t2979351 (shameless plug)
A coin vibration motor (a 10 mm x 3 mm one that runs at about 3 V, either sourced from a phone that has one, or online (something like this but doesn't have to be exactly this)
Hot-air rework gun and Kapton tape
Reasonably proficient soldering skills
Step 1
Disassemble the OnePlus One. We need to remove the speaker block and speaker flex from the phone. Everything else can stay put.
Step 2
Using a knife, remove the speaker that shares its enclosure with the vibrate motor from the speaker block.
Step 3
Remove the speaker foam lining from the flex to prevent it from melting later on.
Step 4
Remove the vibrate motor by either:
Desoldering the whole thing, motor contacts and all, using a rework gun
Desolder the individual contacts first using a soldering iron, then the motor itself with a rework gun
Then re-install the flex into the phone.
Step 5
Install the motor onto the flex. You can do it by eye, or stick it inside of the speaker block first, installing it so the motor sticks to the flex then removing the speaker block.
Step 6
Solder the wires to the contacts. Positive is closer to the USB port, negative is closer to the battery. Make sure neither are touching the large conductive area where the old motor used to be. It should be ground, but test it before using it. Foam padding on the motor is recommended. The motor should come with one, but if it doesn't it should matter too much.
Step 7
Reassemble the phone.
Done! It was pretty self-explanatory - disassemble the phone to get to the relevant parts, remove the old motor, installing a new one, and reassembling it. I think the most important part is showing that it is possible to remove the motor and the method of doing so.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have also change motor as suggested by you . But still vibrations intensity is not that good . Can you suggest any link where I can get good quality motor ..
vantt1 said:
Still better than the OPO's motor ¯¯\_(ツ)_/¯¯
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have both phones in front of me right now and I can promise you, it's not. If you want, I can take a video and post it. I missed notifications all the time when I used my Oneplus 2, but I never miss anything with the OPO.
champ14 said:
I have also change motor as suggested by you . But still vibrations intensity is not that good . Can you suggest any link where I can get good quality motor ..
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You could try wiring up a motor from an LG G3 or something. At least you know how it feels in a phone.
xxBrun0xx said:
I have both phones in front of me right now and I can promise you, it's not. If you want, I can take a video and post it. I missed notifications all the time when I used my Oneplus 2, but I never miss anything with the OPO.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Strange that there seems to be so much deviation between different OPOs. My new motor is definitely stronger than my old one.
Could someone report about the vibration noise? I'm always using it on vibrate only, but since it's clearly audible, I am interested in changing it if a new motor makes it stronger but quieter
Isn't there any way to replace the vibrating motor without losing one of the speakers?