Hey guys as soon as I notice this connection/data problem I decied to make a thread about it because this issue has been posted before but with little success on fixing it.
So have you guys notice that the signal of the HD2 will go from HSDPA or 3G to EDGE to GPRS and so on (sitting on the same spot) has this happened to you...?
I think that 99% of HD2 users have experience this. One of the the things that was causing for such a bad reception is also the 2.08.50.08_2 radio (in some areas) I live in L.A. California and I had that problem then the new 2.09.50.20_2 Radio seem to help out with this issue.
BUT!
That is not the actual problem, its not just software its actually a HARDWARE problem as well, Yup!
For you see HTC decied to put the Antenna AT THE BOTTOM OF THE PHONE not on the top. Almost 99% of the devices that receive some sort off signal (such as a radio or a phone) are made with an antenna ON THE TOP for obvious reasons, probably one of the reason why HTC decided to go through with this (even knowing that this issue would emerge) is because of the camera and the phone being so thin.
Check out the picture (the antenna is right under the batterie pins) so every time you hold your phone just around the buttons section at the bottom you are actually blocking the signal therefore making the connection go back and forward
SO WHAT'S THE SOLUTION?
Well one solution is...
You might be right on. My 1st gen iPhone had the antenna on the bottom and that would cause poor reception if you covered it up. There was even testing done to prove that was the case. It only had edge so it didn't bounce around like your HD2. BTW, I live in LA and have never had an issue with the 3G, as a matter of fact, I'm nearly always on 3G, I can't even remember the last time I saw E. I live on the West Side, maybe more towers around here, or I'm holding it "right"???
I personally think it's a combination of what you found and the T-Mobile network.
I think its more than just antenna placement. I have set my phone on the table and watched it go from H to 3G to E. The antenna is not covered up so there is some other issue going on. My coworker also has the phone and doesn't have the 3G issue. While the placement of the antenna could be part of the issue I think it can also be fixed with a radio update. I remember when I had the Wing I was able to boost reception with a radio update, yeah it shortened battery life but not by much. I'm hoping for a radio update that would make it a stronger connection.
tuppaacc said:
For you see HTC decied to put the Antenna AT THE BOTTOM OF THE PHONE not on the top. Almost 99% of the devices that receive some sort off signal (such as a radio or a phone) are made with an antenna ON THE TOP for obvious reasons, probably one of the reason why HTC decided to go through with this (even knowing that this issue would emerge) is because of the camera and the phone being so thin.
Link to the HD2 hardware pictures
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=582652
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
-Exactly what item in that picture are you saying is "the antenna"?
-Can you please reference a link where you found that identification?
EDIT: A question for the others experiencing the "connection flipping" that this thread is about: do you ever notice the connection icon changing while you a have an "active" connection (i.e. when you're actually passing data), or only when the connection is live but idle? I'd like to add this to some other anecdotal evidence that a couple of us are looking at for a related theory on the cause.
Sorry to say, but it is not the antenna placement. My wife's phone gets 3G all the time and mine doesn't. I called Tmo and is waiting for a replacement.
I dont even get an H i only get 3g or edge im in los angeles but this makes sense.I doubt the antenna booster might work
guys, guys, it is not just an antenna placement problem as xeebot and speoples20 are stating is a COMBINATION OF BOTH I've been using the newest radio updated for one day and it seem to fix most of the Issue (haven't gone down all the way to E) like I said on my first post if you feel its the radio try the 2.09.50.20_2 Radio or the 2.7 they seem to be the most reliable ones.
if you still having doubts try covering up the bottom part of your phone with one or both hand and see your bars go down and sirphunke look at the attached picture that's where the antenna is, if you look thoroughly on the others you will notice the cable that hooks to the antenna at the bottom.
tuppaacc said:
guys, guys, it is not just an antenna placement problem as xeebot and speoples20 are stating is a COMBINATION OF BOTH I've been using the newest radio updated for one day and it seem to fix most of the Issue (haven't gone down all the way to E) like I said on my first post if you feel its the radio try the 2.09.50.20_2 Radio or the 2.7 they seem to be the most reliable ones.
if you still having doubts try covering up the bottom part of your phone with one or both hand and see your bars go down and sirphunke look at the attached picture that's where the antenna is, if you look thoroughly on the others you will notice the cable that hooks to the antenna at the bottom.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
so with the new radio you haven't had the data outage???
tuppaacc said:
if you still having doubts try covering up the bottom part of your phone with one or both hand and see your bars go down.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
just tried this and I'm afraid to say it's the truth...I think this is the worst thing the engineers could have done!
tuppaacc said:
sirphunke look at the attached picture that's where the antenna is, if you look thoroughly on the others you will notice the cable that hooks to the antenna at the bottom.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Uh....I am looking at the attached picture
Again, there's a number of components in that picture, and I'd like to know exactly which one you're saying is the antenna. The only cable I see in this shot is the one hanging loose in the middle right of the picture...and in the other pictures that cable can clearly be seen plugged into the side of the SIM card housing.
I've seen this same set of pics that was first posted here at xda, and I've seen all manner of other tech sites link and refer to these pics, but in none of them have I seen indiviual components identified/located...so I ask you again to please reference where you found your information, because as far I can locate these are the only component-level views of the inside of the HD2
josemedina1983 said:
so with the new radio you haven't had the data outage???
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
yeah with the new radio the signal is amazing as loong as I'm not holding the phone from the bottom
sirphunkee said:
Uh....I am looking at the attached picture
Again, there's a number of components in that picture, and I'd like to know exactly which one you're saying is the antenna. The only cable I see in this shot is the one hanging loose in the middle right of the picture...and in the other pictures that cable can clearly be seen plugged into the side of the SIM card housing.
I've seen this same set of pics that was first posted here at xda, and I've seen all manner of other tech sites link and refer to these pics, but in none of them have I seen indiviual components identified/located...so I ask you again to please reference where you found your information, because as far I can locate these are the only component-level views of the inside of the HD2
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Reference where i found this info!? Like I said on my first post IT IS SOMETHING I NOTICE!! (its right at the top) haha
There... I updated the pictures on the first post I think that's the antenna (because it resembles many other phones I've open myself) the top ones could be the speaker or the flash GPS or BT, so no room for the antenna. Now you get what I'm talking about??
If you want to confirm this just open you own phone or contact HTC as I'm not a tech and neither was I there wen they build this phone...
lol
First off, I want to say that Plato56 was the first person to try this, and I want to give all credit where credit is due. Several others have applied this method, including myself, with great results. I apologize for not knowing everyone and I apologize if any of this is not clear. Please let me know and I will clarify the best I can and update this original post.
Ok, the other thread found here is close but the wrong contacts are circled. I've uploaded several pics to reference as you read through this post. The first pic has the correct contacts circled. The contacts circled in the other thread are for the cellular radio.
So What's The Deal With The GPS on my SGS!?
Essentially, the problem is two fold.
Problem #1: Samsung has no clue how to put out decent firmware.
Problem #2: The copper contact that Samsung chose to connect the GPS Receiver to the GPS Antenna is about the crappiest selection they could have possibly made.
THE PURPOSE OF THIS THREAD IS TO ADDRESS PROBLEM #2. If we address and solve one then we can (hopefully) tackle the other effectively one day. Here is a technical, but relatively easy to understand explanation of why Firmware alone can't fix the GPS problems that plague ALL SGS phones (even if your GPS is "fine" it still has weak SNR Numbers)
Explanation (Courtesy of T313C0mun1s7):
Q) Is it hardware?
A) It's complicated. We are talking about very high frequency RF here, you gotta understand how electricity acts when you reach these frequencies to fully get this, but I will summarize. At zero hertz or DC current electricity flows through the body or center of the conductor. As long as you have enough conductor to carry the required current you are good. So the type of spring contact they used is fine for DC, in fact I went looking for replacement contacts and the only thing I can find are designed for either battery tabs or for grounding contacts. As you go higher in frequency the AC current of electricity takes on what we call skin effect, it travels as waves around the surface of the conductor. For this reason large diameter, low loss coax usually has a hollow center conductor. It make no difference electrically and makes it more flexible, lighter, and less expensive because it saves copper. Connections have to be solid and shielded because the RF can "leak", noise can be introduced, and the conductor should be tuned to the frequency carried. In short, these spring connectors are about as bad a connection as you could have picked. It is not enough that they touch the pad, you need good solid contact for a good transfer with the skin effect and to minimize loss. It seems that this problem is exasperated by poor contact. This fix it to simply improve the contact by increasing the pressure and hope to minimize the ill effects of this poor choice of contact design. To complicate things there are in fact things that can be done in software to improve the situation - this made trouble shooting harder because people tend to see these things as black and white and therefore either hardware OR software. If you want to know how software can affect this, then you will need to read back through the thread as I have already explained it twice and this answer is already too long.
Q) Should I ever expect a fix?
A) Read the OP. It was "fixed" (ie they improved the connection, but they did not re-engineer a proper fix) already. It seems if it was made in September there is a good chance it is ok or marginal. If it was made (or possibly re-manufactured?) in October it seems they are at least as good as the fix we are applying in this thread. Either they are using better contacts or they are increasing the angle to apply more pressure.
Q) Will T-mobile replace it?
A) They recognize the problem. This is what the app Samsung released is for. It resets everything to the stock settings (and nothing else). If you use it and can show unacceptable performance with the GPS (via the measurements the app makes - it is the official guide replacement), then they should replace the phone for you without any fight.
Now that you know why you should consider applying the hardware fix to your SGS, read on to determine if it may actually help your situation. I.E. does your unit's manufacture date and/or modem make this modification worth your time?
Prerequisites (Courtesy of T313C0mun1s7)
If you don't yet have at least JI6 then you need to be at least at that modem level FIRST. If you are already using the JI6 (or newer) modem and your GPS still sucks AND your phone was manufactured prior to October, then try this. Otherwise don't expect results. To determine your manufacture date, look on the box. If you no longer have the box, then look under the battery. The middle line has the serial number marked with a S/N. To the right of that will be a set of numbers with a period in the middle. It is month and year in European format, so 10.09 would be September of 2010.
To summarize:
* Phone made in October 2010 or after - this should not be needed
* You have not upgraded to at LEAST JI6 - then do that FIRST
Steps To Apply The Hardware Fix:
NOTE THAT THIS TECHNICALLY VOIDS YOUR WARRANTY especially if you choose the alternate method that involves a soldering iron
However, there is nothing noted on the phone that says if you remove this or go beyond that your warranty is voided.
Also, as goes without saying, don't blame me if you snap your GPS Antenna Contact off, break your plastics, or lose the ability to procreate!!!
* Turn off your GPS and shut down.
* Remove the back of your SGS and take out your battery, SIM Card and MicroSD Card.
* Remove the 7 screws that hold the back plastics. All you need is a Philips Head screwdriver from any jeweler's kit or glasses repair kit (you can get one from CVS/Wal-Mart, etc). Here is a video that shows you how to open up your phone. Take your time with this. I know it seems unsettling at first, but everything will be OK as long as you take your time and use a little common sense!
Be sure to watch for three small things after you get the back off. If you aren't careful, all three will sprout legs and run away :
1) Volume Rocker
2) Power Rocker
3) A little round plastic circle next to the lower right of your SIM Card slot that may fall out
* Refer to the 3rd and 4th pictures I uploaded (courtesy of androidmonkey). These photos depict the CORRECT CONTACT to gently bend up. The 4th photo depicts the position your contact should be in. You'll probably find that yours is laying flatter and thus isn't making contact with the GPS Antenna (which is on the plastic backing that you removed). As I said a second ago, gently bend this contact up. I used a flathead screwdriver from a glasses repair kit. It doesn't take much bend this contact. I started from the side that the fourth photo depicts. After I got the contact up a bit, I moved my screwdriver over 90* where the hump is and pried a little more. That's it! It's really simple. Just don't go happy with your bending. I have no experience replacing a snapped piece of copper so I can't be of any help if you destroy yours.
* Button everything back up. The back plastic will pop back in 10000% easier than it came off. Put the screws back in, pop your SIM and MicroSD back in and your battery. When you boot back up, you might wanna clear your GPS settings just for the heck of it. I did. DO NOT be shocked if it takes a few minutes to get a lock. It's probably the first time your SGS has ever had a real chance at a lock. Subsequent locks (Hot and Cold Start) will be faster.
* Boot up, leave your GPS off. Just because it can't hurt, clear your GPS settings. Here's how:
1) Download this app http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=775154
You can find it by searching for "sgstools" in the market. Click on Secret Codes then Lbstestmode. At the bottom you'll see "Delete GPS Data". Just click that!
OR
2) Open your dialer and hit *#*#1472365#*#*
Click "Delete GPS Data".
* Turn your GPS on. Wait for a lock! If you want to know what's going on, download two apps:
"GPS Status & Toolbox" by EclipSim
and
"GPS Test" by Chartcross Limited
That's it!
ALTERNATE METHOD - ADDING SOLDER TO YOUR GPS CONTACT
*WARNING* As I mentioned earlier IF YOU CHOOSE THIS METHOD THERE IS ZERO CHANCE OF YOUR PHONE REMAINING UNDER WARRANTY *WARNING*
If you feel inclined to modify your phone in a much more permanent way, you can opt to add some solder on top of the contact (no need to bend the contact up, in fact, don't). I attached a zip with some pics that show what two posters, regp and Mannymal did. I've soldered a few things in the past, but I'm by no means an expert. If you choose to do this, a few things to remember.
* First, seriously consider avoiding this if you have no experience with a soldering iron. In what I've seen on a limited base, you'll get minimal SNR gain in return for the effort that goes into this. I can't emphasis this enough.
* There are probably a 100 tutorials on how to solder floating around on YouTube, watch them (all).
* The absolute largest diameter solder I would use is .022.
* Find the smallest tip possible.
* Heat the CONTACT with your soldering iron, not your solder, or you will create what is called a cold solder joint that will probably lead to your GPS not working at all on down the road. You have to get the contact hot enough to receive the solder, which is touched to the part (in our case, the contact) that you want to apply the solder to.
* Be careful not to make your solder to high. I suggest looking at the photo that shows the angle of the contact after it's been raised and using that as your benchmark. We want to make contact with the GPS Antenna, not break the thing when we snap the back plastic on.
* If you end up with two much solder you can either clean the tip of your soldering iron and touch the hot tip to the solder to remove some or you can use an emery board to file it down.
* Use an small emery board (nail file essentially) to file down and smooth off your joint. I suggest doing this holding the phone upside down so you don't end up with 1000 tiny solder particles floating around your phone.
* REMEMBER, phones are tiny. These boards are tiny. A soldering iron that is too hot left on ANY board for too long will destroy it. Multiply this rule x10 for delicate parts.
Good luck.
Observable Data Changes
(Grabbed from this thread after several days of playing with this fix).
Accuracy: 16-28 feet stationary 38-50 feet moving (moving accuracy has improved and is now on par with stationary numbers since I started running the Stock JL4 Rom)
Average SNR: 22-35. Obviously you'll always have one or two that are lower and one or two higher. My max I've observed was 42.
Number of Sats Locked/In View: 8/11 most of the time. Yesterday afternoon I was locked on 10/10 with a 22 foot accuracy inside. I've had 11/14 before as well, just depends on the time of day.
Cold Start Lock: 30 seconds
Hot Start Lock: 5-15 seconds
For reference, my Garmin Nuvi is currently connected to 7/10 with a 16-18 foot accuracy and my Vibrant is connected to 7/10 with a 21-25 foot accuracy. (stationary of course)
Unnecessary re-routing: No
Wandering on Google Nav/Lost Signal with Nav: Very rarely. For me it happens when I lose signal which is only if the phone is resting on my jeans. If it's in my cupholder, center console, hand, etc it's fine. Earlier today I lost signal with it in my cupholder but I was traveling in an area where my Garmin Nuvi only had a connection to 5 satellites.
My Tracks: No data from me yet
There are some after screen shots in this post.
Other notes: I'm on the road a lot. Today is my first day to really extensively test it. Basically, it's MUCH better. Is it perfect? No, but I will say that unlike these other fixes that involve changes in lbstestmode and reset apps that only last for a couple of hours at best, my GPS performance has been very consistent ever since I adjusted the antenna contact. Is it as good as my old Blackberries with signal strength? No. How does it compare to other Android devices? I have no clue.
What I do know is that it works well enough for me to be comfortable not having to grab my Nuvi everytime I switch vehicles.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Wrap Up
I hope this works for those of you like me that have tried almost every firmware update, tweak, etc. Between this fix and JL4, all I can say is that this device is probably as near to perfect as it'll ever be. I've been running this fix for well over a week and I've experienced no signs of the modified contact losing it's contact with the antenna.
If You Still Have Problems
* Even though you used the Samsung GPS Restore App (Found in the market for Vibrant/Captivate only)
* Even though you deleted GPS Data
* Even though you have your WiFi Off like Plato56 recommends in this post
* Even if you tried a full system wipe
Don't panic if you don't have a ton of locks. Like mentioned above, there is still a firmware component to this issue. I see times where mine doesn't want to lock. Usually if I turn GPS off and then turn it back on it runs smoothly from there on out. Depending on where you live, time of day may make a difference. Inevitably, in the afternoons I may only get 6 of 11 locked on. All other times I can get 9-11 of 11 or 11 of 14, etc. Bear with it. This fix is NOT a silver bullet, but give it a day or two of reasonable playing time to determine if it helped.
For example, right now I'm indoors locked on 7/11 with a 21 foot accuracy and SNR's averaging 31. I used to see 0/3 with SNR's averaging 29. That's a definite improvement. If any other Android was in the same position it would probably show 8/11 with a 10 foot accuracy and SNR's averaging over 65.
So take it for what it's worth, but the fix is DEFINITELY worth the effort!
ADDITIONAL TWEAK
Check out this thread here and read through the OP carefully. A few days ago I flashed "S.gps.zip" and I've had great results with it on Bionix 1.3.1 with the KA7 modem. I didn't see an increase in accuracy, but I did see a HUGE improvement on the speed my GPS locked and the number of birds locked too. I played around with all of the 2.2 modems last night and they all saw improved results.
If you decide to flash one of those zips, I recommend making a Nandroid backup first. In reading through the thread it appears that there are a few people that had their flashes result in broken GPS's. I have no idea why, I'd imagine it's because they didn't clear GPS data and they just think it's broken. I recommend making a backup, shutting off your GPS, booting into CWM, flashing the zip, rebooting, clearing GPS data, turning your GPS on and enjoying locks. And, as always, I recommend using GPS Test by Mike Lockwood to test your GPS every time you make a change.
The Super GPS should work on any ROM on an Vibrant, but it looks like a lot of people have tried it on 2.2 ROMS so be aware that, as always, there's the chance you may brick your device. If it works for you, be sure to thank jellette for his work. As always, I take no responsibility if this messes up your phone. I'm just relaying what worked for me.
UPDATE: 7/31/11
I should have posted this a couple of months ago. I also have a theory about why sometimes this fix fails over time. For example, I run Overstock 2.4.1 and I often flash the S.gps2.zip when I redo my system. It's been a fantastic combo on Bionix 1.3.1, but often, after a few weeks my GPS begins to turn retarded and will eventually no longer lock. In the past I've always believed it's purely because the antenna contacts have started to relax. However, what I've discovered is that when I go back into CWM and reflash my kernel and reflash the GPS zip, everything is happy and perfect again. I'm by no means a hardware genius or a developer. I'm just an average end user that loves to tinker with things and be methodical in testing, but I'm starting to believe that there truly is something going on that corrupts our GPS Drivers over time (in reference back to how we know Samsung screwed the pooch on firmware for the GPS Receiver).
So, that said, before you crack your phone open over and over yanking and bending on contacts, reflash your kernel and the GPS Zip of your choice. And, like I've always said before, if the hardware fix doesn't seem to work for you when it seems to work for others on the same ROM as you, try another kernel, and try it more than once. I still fully believe that every GPS Receiver on every SGS can be made usable. It's not perfect, but it's a strong improvement from not being able to obtain a lock. http://forum.xda-developers.com/showpost.php?p=16026963&postcount=12
Q&A
This thread is getting long so I am creating this Q&A post to answer many of the most common questions.
Due credits go to those that originally asked and answered these questions. Obviously this thread is the result of the efforts of many people.
Q) Is it a hardware issue? Why do different ROMs / Modems effect this?
A) It's complicated. We are talking about very high frequency RF here, you gotta understand how electricity acts when you reach these frequencies to fully get this, but I will summarize. At zero hertz or DC current electricity flows through the body or center of the conductor. As long as you have enough conductor to carry the required current you are good. So the type of spring contact they used is fine for DC, in fact I went looking for replacement contacts and the only thing I can find are designed for either battery tabs or for grounding contacts. As you go higher in frequency the AC current of electricity takes on what we call skin effect, it travels as waves around the surface of the conductor. For this reason large diameter, low loss coax usually has a hollow center conductor. It make no difference electrically and makes it more flexible, lighter, and less expensive because it saves copper. Connections have to be solid and shielded because the RF can "leak", noise can be introduced, and the conductor should be tuned to the frequency carried. In short, these spring connectors are about as bad a connection as you could have picked. It is not enough that they touch the pad, you need good solid contact for a good transfer with the skin effect and to minimize loss. It seems that this problem is exasperated by poor contact. This fix it to simply improve the contact by increasing the pressure and hope to minimize the ill effects of this poor choice of contact design. To complicate things there are in fact things that can be done in software to improve the situation - this made trouble shooting harder because people tend to see these things as black and white and therefore either hardware OR software. If you want to know how software can affect this, then you will need to read back through the thread as I have already explained it twice and this answer is already too long.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Q) Should I try this fix?
A) Only if you can not get your phone replaced under warranty. If you can not and meet the prerequisites in the OP, then you are a good candidate.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Q) How do I update to JI6? In the release notes of the Super_IO kernel, it mentions it has the UVJL1 modem. is this more recent than JI6??
A) Yes, JL1 is more recent than JI6. The nomenclature uses lexicograpical unicode values.
1. Check the first unit. The first unit in JI6 and JL1 are both 'J', so look at the next unit.
2. 'I' in the former, 'L' in the latter. 'L' comes after 'I' in the alphabet, so it's more recent.
3. You can stop here, because you've already determined that JL* is more recent than JI*. Any units that come after this are to distinguish within the L- or I-series.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Q) How do I reset the GPS setting?
A) Open your dialer and hit *#*#1472365#*#* or maybe *#3214789650# (I need clarification on these)
OR
The Samsung GPS Restore app (APK attached to this post)
OR
Since the Feburary 2nd, 2011 Market update you can find it here https://market.android.com/details?id=com.sec.samsung.GpsRestore
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Q) Should we assume that any phone manufactured before 10/10 has these problems?
A) No, I would not think so. Something like this is usually a intermittent manufacturing flaw and would not affect everyone or there would be an even larger outrage about it.
Look at it this way. The spring contacts were designed to make contact without too much pressure when the back is properly in place. GOOD engineering would have accounted for slight variations in manufacturing and quality control and would have made the spring contacts overshoot the required distance a little to assure 100% contact in all situations. In this case I think they forgot to account for that and designed them to just touch, invariably some make intermittent contact and some fall just short of good solid contact (there are prior posts about how poor contact can get worse over time due to oxidation and arcing), but at least we have no reports of totally non-working GPS where they would have failed to touch outright. Chances are when October came around one of two things happened.
They decided to fix the issue and reenginerred the design to make better contact
The manufacturer ran out of the old contacts the the new shipment just work better
Either way, although this is a common issue, I don't see the evidence that it affected all pre-October phones.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Q) Any hints on how to get the back off after removing the screws? I watched the YouTube video, but I'm not having any luck with my normal sized fingernails.
A) It is very stubborn, the most important tool you have is patience. Just take your time. If you really need more than just you fingers here are some other options.
Set of Safe Open Pry Tools - http://www.repairsuniverse.com/prytools.html
Thinner than credit card type cards such as a Bi-Mart membership card, plastic business cards that are 1/2 thickness of a credit card, laminated ID badge, old Subway rewards card.
Guitar Pick
The plastic from a clear "clam shell" type package that everything seems to come in now. You know, the ones that seem impossible to open.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Q) CRAP!!! I BROKE MY TAB (This question covers Soldering)
A) Relax, take three deep breaths, all is not lost.
What you want to do is replace the tab with a small mound of solder to bridge the space between the boards and create a contact so the two pads touch. You want a decent amount of surface to touch and you want it flat for the best contact. You need the mound smooth and round because you are working with high frequency signals. Follow the instructions below carefully. If you need more details they are in this thread.
1) If you are experienced in soldering most will be second nature to you except for the fact that you are not actually soldering anything to anything, you are just making a mound on a pad. If you are not experienced then the first step is to WATCH THESE VIDEOS (A) and (B) then PRACTICE until you are proficient in the basics of heating, soldering, and removing the iron cleanly leaving a good joint.
2) Read this comic book (trust me) --> http://mightyohm.com/files/soldercomic/FullSolderComic_20110409.pdf
3) Now if you are confident that you are ready to actually touch a hot soldering iron to the inside of your phone lets continue.
De-solder the old broken contact from the pad using the soldering iron and either some wick or a solder-sucker (you can also use a cheap rubber bulb, but they rarely work well)
Use the soldering iron and wick or solder-sucker to remove any remaining solder from the pad. It can still be silver, but should be flat.
Realizing that you will remove a little solder with the iron when you pull it away, make a small, smooth, shiny, and round mound of solder on the lower pad just a little taller then you need for good contact.
It is important in this step to not leave any metal filing behind on the board or it might short something out. So do this step holding the phone upside-down so they fall away. File the top of the mound with an emery board so you have a flat spot parallel with the pad. Don't file too much at first.
Check the height of the mound by puting the top board back on. If needed file a little more and recheck. Go slow, don't try to take too much off at once. When the hight is right it should just barely be too tall. You want good solid contact, but you do not want the board to be stressed or bend.
If all looks good check again for hidden shavings and blow it off real good just to make sure.
If you mess up at any point just de-solder the pad and try again.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Q) What are people's setting in LBSTestMode?
A) Factory Defaults - an earlier question covered how to get back there
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Q) Will this work with the GT-I9000 or the Captivate?
A) Most likely, yes. We have even had some people with those phones report back with positive results.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Q) I did this hardware fix, but I am still losing locks. Now what?
A) Here is what the OFA (Original Fix Artist) Plato56 has to say:
1. Before anything else, make shure your WiFI radio is OFF. I dont mean not connected, I don't mean out of range, I mean hardware swiched off threw your settings or via the drop down status bar.
2. Use the Samsung GPS restore to get you LBS settings to default.
3. Update your modem to one of the 2.2 versions. Im particularly happy with JL4 modem myself
4. Learn to use ODIN!!!! Use this to reload your firmware of choice. Prior to flashing you favorate ROM, Always flash back to JDF (BONE STOCK FIRMWARE).
5. If you dont know what im talking about in 4, then go to the developers section and read, read, read.
6. If you have any other questions refer to sujection 1 first, then ask. Honistly, alot of people have put some work into verifing if this fix works and testing with various software, the least you can do is read this body of work and you just might end up with a working GPS.
7. My last tip of the day. Be patent with your first locks, the GPS does improve the more data it collects. This also means dont delete your GPS data unless you changed modems or are having real lock and or accuracy issues
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Q) Does this fix drift?
A) There have been a couple that have mentioned that it does fix the drift, but I think there may have been others that say they get better locks but still get some drift. I do believe though that everyone who has done the driving test with it has reported that it tracks better now and actually shows them on the correct roads, where before it didn't.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Q) What are the other contacts?
A) Opposite side is Wi-Fi, bottom is cellular.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Q) OK, so I can bend it up, or replace it with a bit of solder. Is that all?
A) Of course not. Some like to stick a little piece of plastic under the tab rather than try to bend it. Just a little sliver about as wide as the contact cut off a credit card should work. Your Mileage may vary, in my mind if you drop the phone that plastic is gonna be floating around in there somewhere.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Q) So inside I see. . .
A) Stop! go outside. GPS was not designed to help you get from your bathroom to your kitchen. GPS signals are low power signals that have to travel all the way from an orbital satellite. Low frequencies penetrate well, and bend around objects, but they require a lot of power to transmit over distance. High frequencies travel much further with less power and remains in a fairly strait line, but it does not penetrate very well. Guess what GPS uses. So don't make it try to penetrate your roof.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Q) So there are two apps listed to test GPS and . . .
A) I've noticed a big difference between the two apps called "GPS Test". Try using the one written by Mike Lockwood (he's on the Google GPS team).
http://www.androlib.com/android.appl...stest-qjx.aspx
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
AND FINALLY
Q) What does tonight taste like?
A) Tonight tastes like chinese food and whiskey with coconut water
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
A final note about satellites and tracking said hunks of orbital equipment
I have noticed a lot of people are wanting to compare signal levels. This is fine on a superficial level, and there should be some level of consistency as long as you live on roughly the same latitude as the person you are comparing with. As Einstein said - everything is relative. With that in mind I thought I would share a post I made in another thread. There is cool stuff in here - so check it out.
T313C0mun1s7 said:
Another thing that you have to realize is that the satellites themselves are a variable. The only way to make a satellite stationary is to put it into orbit directly on the equator, falling at the exact same rate the earth spins, and in the same direction. Even at that there is still a little wobble in a figure 8 pattern.
So GPS sats are anything but stationary, but they are flying at great speeds overhead coming in and out of view by their own rite at any time. At the speeds they fly the distances to you change by the mile rather quickly. So it should be no surprise that doing your testing repeatedly will never yield the same results twice. There are also a lot of other factors involved as well.
The point is that you are now getting very acceptable and usable results from your GPS consistently, even if you never get anything as great as your first time. Maybe you will get those strong of signals again, but even if you don't you seems to be an par with what the majority of people have reported so far.
FYI - If you would like to see some real time tracking of GPS sats that you should be able to see (THIS IS REALLY COOL) go to http://www.n2yo.com and click the GPS link at the top of the page. It will load a page of sats that are visible from your location. Click the select all box and then click the track selected satellites button. It will load a world map with the orbital paths of the sats, then the sats themselves. You can watch them move and even select them for more information on each satellite. This is not limited to GPS satellites if you want to keep playing with it. The point is that if you watch it for a little bit you can see pretty quickly as they move relative to the world map they are on just how many miles (or kilos) they cover in a fairly short time.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Great Post
I have been looking for this information everywhere. I cannot wait until I try this. Thank you^^
How do I update to JI6? i'm running Macnut 14 rom with the Super_IO kernel.
In the release notes of the Super_IO kernel, it mentions it has the UVJL1 modem. is this more recent than JI6??
This might be a stupid question, but how do you tell the manufacture date of the phone. My box just has a date on it (but doesn't say what that date is for), which is 08/10/2010. Is this it?
salvador3 said:
How do I update to JI6? i'm running Macnut 14 rom with the Super_IO kernel.
In the release notes of the Super_IO kernel, it mentions it has the UVJL1 modem. is this more recent than JI6??
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes, JL1 is more recent than JI6. The nomenclature uses lexicograpical unicode values.
1. Check the first unit. The first unit in JI6 and JL1 are both 'J', so look at the next unit.
2. 'I' in the former, 'L' in the latter. 'L' comes after 'I' in the alphabet, so it's more recent.
3. You can stop here, because you've already determined that JL* is more recent than JI*. Any units that come after this are to distinguish within the L- or I-series.
Just gently bent my piece of metal up. Giving it 10 min to find satellites and will edit this post to report.
EDIT: HOLY CRAPOLA! In the time it took me to write this post, I got 11 satellites on a cold start, MS based, with supl.google.com. I'm going to keep it on hot start now that it's got some locks. I've never run a GPS test at my current location (indoors too!), but I usually got 1 or 2 about 30 miles south of here (outdoors). I can't verify that it's the alteration that helped, but my GPS is definitely better now. Much thanks to OP.
RE-EDIT: Huh, this is weird. I tried to exit out of app but it froze. Waited a minute and it exited out, but without the expected transition animation. Tried to open it again, but the GPS icon in the notification bar wasn't flashing so I rebooted. Now I don't get any satellites with the same settings as before. A couple reboots later, everything is going according to plan.
salvador3 said:
How do I update to JI6? i'm running Macnut 14 rom with the Super_IO kernel.
In the release notes of the Super_IO kernel, it mentions it has the UVJL1 modem. is this more recent than JI6??
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
If ur running a 2.2 ROM u are past JI6....
Sent from my Vibrant w/ Onyx 4.2 Overkill.....
Hung0702 said:
RE-EDIT: Huh, this is weird. I tried to exit out of app but it froze. Waited a minute and it exited out, but without the expected transition animation. Tried to open it again, but the GPS icon in the notification bar wasn't flashing so I rebooted. Now I don't get any satellites with the same settings as before.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Ok, relax, I found that this is not that unusual depending on what ROM / Modem and settings your using. It happend to me with JK2 stock and and stock modem. If your running one of the 2.2 builds update your modem to JL4 or JL1. Also i have found that reseting the GPS data can help after you change modems. Before geting into the unit again, i would recoment clearing your gps data and reverting to STOCK gps setings. MS mode does in some cases make locks look faster, but a weak network connect can cause problems. This is actualy why, i think, that Samsung is using standalone mode as it saves the bird info better. Im not shure about this but for me STOCK GPS SETTINGS WORK!!! Try them before opening up the phone a 2nd time.
As long as you've done the mod correctly and have good contact, you should be in better shape. There is the possablity that you did not bend the contact high enough and it settled back in. DONT OVER BEND but maby just a hair more. Also, dont forget to clean the contacts with a mild solvent as a weak contact will cause oxidation . I use a q-tip and alcohol. Dont use tunner cleaner, i tried this and being non conductinve, i had a problem at for a bit.
Remember, this is also a software issue so dont panic if you do the mod, get good results and then things change. Here is my curent configuration for reference.
Macnut 13
JL4 modem
STOCK GPS SETTINGS
Rom was loaded from a CLEAN Oden version of JFD with eveything formated etc..
Im locking with 8-11 birds out of 13 visable in under 15 seconds with accuracy that under 20ft standing still and 25-35 in a moving car. There are times that things will get a bit worse, but by compairing those times to my Garmin, I beleave this a result of the GPS network or other enviromental issues. I DO have "use wireless networks" as it seams to reduce GPS wander on the JL1 modem , at least in my area. Without it on I get an occational jump but it always finds it way back to good in a very short time. It up to you if you want to use it, its not nessasay, but sometimes helps.
To everyone who might suggest that I'm just one of the lucky one.. When I got this phone, I could not lock on ANYTHING. I could see a few birds, hit some sometimes, get a lock after 5 minutes and lose after the phone went into lock mode etc... you know, all the problems that eveyone else has. Now with the contact mod and updated modems, the results are better than an iPhone and rival my Garmin stand alone GPS.
salvador3 said:
How do I update to JI6? i'm running Macnut 14 rom with the Super_IO kernel.
In the release notes of the Super_IO kernel, it mentions it has the UVJL1 modem. is this more recent than JI6??
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Your fine, your current config is good, My advice, just update to the JL4 modem.
How do I reset the GPS setting?
Stick Thread!
How do I reset the GPS setting?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The most dummy proof way (not that your dumb, I just like simple solutions) is to download this app http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=775154
Click on Secret Codes then Lbstestmode. At the bottom you'll see "gps reset". Just click that!
Or open your dialer and hit *#*#1472365#*#*
Sent from my SGH-T959 using Tapatalk
wow holy crap this fix worked. i live in apartments and after i did this, it locked on to sats for the FIRST time EVER within 30 secs. im amazed this actually worked lol.
so should we assume that any phone manufactured before those dates has these problems?
mine was manufactured before the date, but now that im on 2.2 i usually get a lock on 7 or 8/12 Sats....
but when using google Nav, i get several re-routes and lost signals...
so im not sure if this would help me??
Any hints on how to get the back off after removing the screws? I watched the YouTube video, but I'm not having any luck with my normal sized fingernails.
kboater said:
so should we assume that any phone manufactured before those dates has these problems?
mine was manufactured before the date, but now that im on 2.2 i usually get a lock on 7 or 8/12 Sats....
but when using google Nav, i get several re-routes and lost signals...
so im not sure if this would help me??
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I got my phone in late July and my GPS performance matches exactly what the OP describes AFTER he did the fix. My phone is pure stock JI6, with no HW mods. So, it doesn't seem valid to assume all pre-October phones have the problem.
Confirmed works... Thanks to all.
- All screen shots were taken from the same indoors location. Phone was sitting in a window.
- There are two before and two after screen shots. They represent the range of results.
- I'm running Macnut R14 with JL4
Before
After
Try this
JD - You might need to go online and order an actual case pry tool. They're usually included in disassembly kits for iPhones etc. Maybe try a guitar pick??
Sent from my SGH-T959 using Tapatalk
kboater said:
so should we assume that any phone manufactured before those dates has these problems?
mine was manufactured before the date, but now that im on 2.2 i usually get a lock on 7 or 8/12 Sats....
but when using google Nav, i get several re-routes and lost signals...
so im not sure if this would help me??
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
No, I would not think so. Something like this is usually a intermittent manufacturing flaw and would not affect everyone or there would be an even larger outrage about it.
Look at it this way. The spring contacts were designed to make contact without too much pressure when the back is properly in place. GOOD engineering would have accounted for slight variations in manufacturing and quality control and would have made the spring contacts overshoot the required distance a little to assure 100% contact in all situations. In this case I think they forgot to account for that and designed them to just touch, invariably some make intermittent contact and some fall just short of good solid contact (there are prior posts about how poor contact can get worse over time due to oxidation and arcing), but at least we have no reports of totally non-working GPS where they would have failed to touch outright. Chances are when October came around one of two things happened.
They decided to fix the issue and reenginerred the design to make better contact
The manufacturer ran out of the old contacts the the new shipment just work better
Either way, although this is a common issue, I don't see the evidence that it affected all pre-October phones.
I'll post screenshots later today. For now I can definitevly confirm that this fix improves gps signal levels and performance.
Sent from my SGH-T959 using XDA App
A few months back my Legend went through a cycle in the washing machine. Afterwards I did all the recommended things (take everything apart, leave it in the sun for a day or two, keep it in a jar of water absorbent silica in the evening). Anyway, after three or four days of that, I put it back together again and my battery was dead. Tested it with someone else's battery, and everything worked perfectly, I even made a call with it.
I then waited about 3 months for a new battery (it got stuck at customs) which I finally go this week. Thing is, I now have 0 connectivity with the phone no matter what I do. I always have 0 bars, I can't connect to wireless networks (even though I pick them up perfectly), and I can't get the GPS to turn on at all. Everything else works fine (including the FM radio), but there's no connectivity.
I was hoping it might be a software issue of some strange sort, since the wireless picks up well but just says "connecting--disconnected" when I try to connect. A hard reset did nothing to the phone though.
Is there anything else for me to try? I'm running pretty thin on ideas at the moment. Would replacing the back cover fix any of the connectivity issues? Also, is it still possible for it to be a software problem, and should I maybe try to install a custom rom on it?
Any advice at the moment would be much appreciated. Thanks!
EDIT: I just realised that I had made things worse with my reset. Now I have no file browser with which to sideload apps and no internet connectivity. EDIT2: Managed to fix the file manager problem with ADB. Now just the actual problem again
The GSM antenna is in the bottom part that covers the battery compartment - I'd say you have some oxide on those two contacts.
Take a small screwdriver (or a needle) and gently scrub those pins on your phone.
As for the two on the cover, you'll notice those two parts come apart, so I'd take the inner part and gently brush the two contacts with a piece of cloth and a toothpaste - it's a good thing to gently brush something.
If that fails and you're sure you plugged all inside as it was...it could be another problem...
You may also try bending the two contact in the phone out - these act like a spring, but be gentle about it
P.S.: Is your Legend at least clean now?
EDIT: Now that I think about it, you can try the phone with piece of wire:
cut a wire of : speed of light/frequency in Hz and connect it to the two pins inside the phone
For USA:
299 792 458 m/s divided 1 900 000 000 Hz = 0,15778 m
Thanks Dr.Romca.
I'm trying the clearning out for now. when you say the battery cover comes apart, are you talking about the piece of plastic inside the rubber? There seems to be an additional piece of plastic inside the rubber which might come loose, but I'm not quite sure how to pry it out without breaking it. Any tips on how to do this?
I'll give the piece of wire a skip until the very end
It's not glued or anything, just push the rubber part in the middle and try to click it out...
Dr.Romca said:
It's not glued or anything, just push the rubber part in the middle and try to click it out...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Ahh ok, I wasn't sure what to expect on the other side. Didn't want to jam a screwdriver in between the plastic and rubber and hurt some electronic component. Managed to get it loose though, and gave it a thorough but gentle rub down.
EDIT: Nope, still no service on it. I still find it strange that it doesn't want to connect to the GPS or the wireless either. As far as I know, those shouldn't be affected by an antenna issue right?
That's strange... WiFi and GPS antenna is in the other rubber part....
It seems there might be something wrong with the PCB...
I'm at a loss here...
Damn I have connectivity issues here...
The strange thing is it worked once after the washing...
If you have the courage for it, you can also try this:
Take the phone apart, I mean really apart, if you can unmount the display/touchscreen. Then take the PCB - mainboard, try to put a sticker over a microphone and the repro, then take a toothbrust and a detergent and brush the PCB - make sure you clean all, there will probably be some metal plates that look they can be unmounted, so try to unmount them and clean beneath them.
After this take the PCB and put it in the hot-air oven (if you have one - NOT a Microwave! ) 40 - 50 °C for like an hour should do the trick...
You can also use alcohol to clean the PCB, but since it was water that caused this, I'm gonna presume you'll have more luck dissolving with water again...
Anyway, that's what I'd do, but I'm and engineer, so if you're not sure, just take the phone to service
Hello,
The WiFi and gsm signal are at seperate places on your phone, so you either got a major problem with the hardware, or the ROM just went nuts. I suggest you flash a new ROM before you take the phone apart, cause it might get damaged irriversably..
Goodluck, keep us updated!
Sent from my HTC Legend using XDA App
Thanks for the continuing advice. You're right about the engineer thing though; since I'm not an engineer I'll leave taking the phone apart until the very end.
I've never flashed a ROM before, but I'm sure I'll be able to figure that out. What initially made me think that the ROM might have gone crazy is the fact that the wireless actually picks up networks. The further I get from a network, the worse the signal, and the closer I get the better, so the wireless signal is working properly. It just seems to have a problem connecting, which seems like a software issue rather than a hardware issue.
If that fails, I'll send it to HTC and see if they can do a repair for me. I already sent it to them for a check-up and a new battery directly after I had it dried out. I included explicit instructions that it got water damaged, that I was not looking for a warranty repair, and I would just like them to make sure everything is working and bill me for the repairs and a battery. Two weeks later I get the phone back with a note saying that they noticed some water damage, and they don't do warranty repairs on water damaged phones Anyway, I'll try them again.
If HTC fail to do anything again, I'll try my luck with a full teardown. Still, ROM flash first.
EDIT: Ok, so I followed this (http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=894465) post up until the end of downgrading your rom, and the problems are exactly the same. From my understanding, this would have installed a clean rom onto the phone, so any software issues should have been cleared up. I'll still try and install a custom ROM, just because I've always wanted to and just maybe something will work, but the software problem seems an unlikely explanation now.
This is getting very strange now. Using my newfound "Wi-Fi" Hotspot powers, I can actually create a Wi-Fi hotspot that my computer successfully connects to. Once again, if the hardware was broken I don't see how this could work. I still can't connect from my phone to any Wi-Fi network though.
As I mention (for a completely unrelated reason) earlier, I sent the phone in to HTC. This might be a very dumb question, but is it at all possible that the ROM on my phone works at a different wavelength/frequency than what is used by carriers in South Africa (where I'm from)? I'm thinking maybe HTC did a stock reset or something which changed it, because I never tested my phone after getting it back from them. That would also explain why my phone doesn't have reception with the current ROM. Just note that I have no idea how these things work, it's a complete shot in the dark
EDIT: My GPS also works now, or at least the gps indicator flashes when it should. Since I don't have any kind of internet access, I have no way of knowing if the GPS works, but in the past it never flashed.
I'm currently thinking of using my computer's wireless to connect to my phone, and then bridging that connection with my UTP connection to connect to the internet. I have no idea if this will work or what exactly if it will get me closer to a real solution, but at least having internet access on my phone will make things a bit easier. Will let you know how it goes.
So have you succesfully flashed a different ROM?I'm not sure what type of rom should you have but WWE by it's definition should work...So if you have rooted, try any WWE ROM...
Dr.Romca said:
So have you succesfully flashed a different ROM?I'm not sure what type of rom should you have but WWE by it's definition should work...So if you have rooted, try any WWE ROM...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I first downgraded it to 1.31, and now it's on BlaYo's B0.2.
can you check what radio you are using?
You may want to update it!
It's in settings / about phone / software / baseband version
My is 47.51.32.17U7.13.35.05
Not sure if there's a special version for SA, but here is a radio update only:
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=706435
Sorry for the late reply. Real life caught up for a day or two.
My baseband version was 47.26.35.04u_7.05.35.26L. I updated it with the radio update you posted, and it's still not working. As far as I know, South Africa can use any American phone except those on Sprint, if that helps at all.
Also, I was away from home for the last week, and now that I'm back home my phone connects perfectly to the wi-fi here. I am certain that I did not make any mistake in connecting to the other networks I tried, as I tested the settings on multiple computers and entered the passwords multiple times, but the wi-fi seems to have been a red herring. So the only problem left now is normal phone connectivity.
I'm sorry to hear that...I'm not sure what the L means at the end...but about the wifi thing, it has been mentioned here that different locations use different WiFi channels...so at this point it's almost sure you have a driver/settings mismatch somewhere...
but I don't know much about that...sorry..
The Wi-Fi signal on my I9505 is terribly weak. Sitting at the same desk the router is on - full signal; Walk 3-4 meters away - signal drops to 1 line; Go to a different room - disconnects due to no signal. I can only see 3 networks at 1 signal line while on another phone I get 11 networks - all with signal at 2+ lines.
My router is perfectly fine (works as expected and has great coverage on other phones/laptops - it still gives off great signal if I go next door/above/below me).
Phone software side I'd say is fine too, but I'm not 100% sure:
Issue happens both on latest WizCyan (TW based) and on latest RR (CM14 based), both using different kernels.
Currently on XXUHPG1 bootloader and baseband. PDA version is XXUPPI1 (according to the "Phone INFO" app).
Hardware side, I've tried a few things - bent all of the golden springs I could find just a tiny bit upwards, tried to clean the gray contacts on the mid bezel as best as I could (dry microfiber) - they weren't dirty or anything, but they seem scratched/shiny where the spring would have come into contact, is that bad? (I can take pictures if necessary)
I even flipped the blue antenna wire around (though I think that one only affects cell signal).
I also have to note that there's something wrong with my Wi-Fi IC / mobo because sometimes it stops working altogether (won't turn back on), needing a reboot or physical intervention. I doubt that would affect signal strength, as long as it's actually turning on, I guess?
Edit:
SOLVED!
Well, this is probably a very unique/fringe case - I found out there was a crack in my motherboard, just below one of the antenna connectors. I also found out that pushing down on where the crack is relinks the motherboard connections and gives back the full Wi-Fi signal. So I "ghetto-rigged" a piece of plastic to push down on the crack when I put the mid-bezel back in, and it seems to be working for now. Hope it holds up and doesn't cause other issues.
Actually, it could affect signal strength. You might want to check your antenna wire running down the right side of the battery compartment and make sure it isn't broken or partly disconnected.
You should also note that some phones have better antennas, thus having better reception.
So comparing it to a different phone isn't really a good way to measure the effectiveness.
Took some pics, I've no idea if they're of any help. Maybe somebody can tell if there's something wrong.
Strephon Alkhalikoi said:
Actually, it could affect signal strength. You might want to check your antenna wire running down the right side of the battery compartment and make sure it isn't broken or partly disconnected.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That's the wire I had flipped around. I even disconnected it to see if there's a difference, and it only weakened the cell signal. Full cell signal when I put it back. No change regarding Wi-Fi. If I run the phone with the mid bezel off, I only get 2 lines even next to the router, and it doesn't even connect - so I suppose the mid bezel antennas connect?
Pwnycorn said:
You should also note that some phones have better antennas, thus having better reception.
So comparing it to a different phone isn't really a good way to measure the effectiveness.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
True, still, from full signal to 1/0 lines as soon as I go from my desk (and router) to my bed 5m away isn't right. Wi-Fi reception used to be as good on my S4 as on the other phones. (I can't remember exactly when this started.)
I believe you have a radio chip issue. Something that software cannot fix.
Solved. Thank you for trying to help.
@cLick1338: Telling people you solved the issue without revealing the solution doesn't help anyone who may come across this thread in the future. So how did you solve it?
Strephon Alkhalikoi said:
@cLick1338: Telling people you solved the issue without revealing the solution doesn't help anyone who may come across this thread in the future. So how did you solve it?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I had edited the first post. Figured it would be most visible for such people.
cLick1338 said:
I had edited the first post. Figured it would be most visible for such people.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
If you edited it yesterday I wouldn't have noticed it. The XDA app automatically drills down to the first unread post and I don't always think to scroll back up.
Sorry.