rwtelecom said:
HTC HD2 T8585
When connect to usb via PC or wall charger no response at all from phone.
i tried fixing the middle battery terminal but it doesnt work at all.
hope somebody could help me with these...
thank you in advance!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
try to connect the charger when the phone is off (not sleep, completly off)...if it's charge then uncheck the "Don't charge if connected to PC" or something like that setting is the power option...
If you can get a voltmeter that can test low voltage and use the test leads to test the positive and the negative pins, look at the battery to figure out witch ones these are as the battery is marked positive and negative. Also make sure you have your phone plugged into the wall charger while you are conducting the testing. I am not sure what voltage reading you should get as I don't know the exact voltage it takes to charge the battery, but it should be a pretty low voltage. If you get a reading between the positive and negative you are getting voltage to the battery and your problem is either software or your battery is no longer any good. If you don't get a voltage reading then you are not getting voltage to the battery and you probably have a hardware problem somewhere in the phone.
Also is the led lighting up when you plug the phone in to charge?
Ok I just tested my battery leads with a tester. I got a constant 00.3 volts on my tester testing from positive to negative. If you are getting this reading you are getting voltage to your battery. I would take a very close look at the pins(leads) that connectar to the battery, especially if you do a battery pull as your means of reseting your HD2 instead of using the reset button. A lot of wear and tear on these pins can cause very minor bends in them that can cause all kinds of ptoblems for users. Use a magifiying glass if you have to as they could be such a small difference in the pins that you can not tell with hour naked eye.
What I am concered about though is the fact you say your led is not lighting up when you are plugged into the wall charger nd that you have tried another battery. Also just for your benifit I recomend using the wall charger to charge your phone as the computer does not charge as fast, leading me to think it does not put out the same voltage. Anyway though you can try a hard reset and see if the led comes on then. If not you most likely have a hardware issue.
Also if you can not get it to work you can always buy a external charger to charge your battery. But I also suggest you get another battery if you do this so you can always hve a charged battery to uze while the other charges.
What os? Do you have magldr installed? Flashed any roms or radios lately?
rwtelecom said:
but its puzzling me, if usb port working, has voltage output on battery terminal, so why it doesnt detect by the computer? anyone can help me please?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Well, it could be the battery went bad. You'd have to replace it to find out.
As a last resort, you could also buy an external charger off ebay. They are inexpensive. I have one for my backup battery.
EDIT: I just remembered the check box for "Do Not Charge My Battery" in the settings menu under Settings / System / Battery. There is a check box, but this should not affect the wall charger.
Related
Hi guys,
my beloved qtek 9100 is having some weird behavior since last week: i let my battery drain to 9% and then recharged. The phone would not recharge it, showing a red led. After lurking and learning about this problem on those devices I made a "starter" with three 1.5v batteries and gave the battery the necessary tension to start recharge cycle.
I thought that would be the solution but no: the phone kept stopping recharging at 25% or, the next time, at 75% with no apparent reason. Then, i tried many solutions like directly charging the battery with a cut usb cable, with the stock charger, with powered on phone, powered off phone, etc. No clue.
What leaves me shocked is that the battery, even when at 75%, drops suddenly to 0% after enabling the radio module thus killing the device...
An important note: same behavior with two different batteries...
I'm going nuts...
Problem still unsolved. Today i left the device recharge at 100% (took about 3 hours), detached it and tried a rom downgrade. Obviously it died at 50% of rom upgrade procedure. Sweet...now it's almost bricked, bootloader screen and recovery procedure to be done
What could it be, an hardware failure?
Hi there, same problem here: I have the phone with two batteries, on half a year old, one brand new. The batteries DO charge on another phone, but after a regular charge is gone, my phone never gecharges the batteries. It might be the charger circuit? If not HW, is there any chnce to do some SW stuff?
Unfortunately this thing s just a brock now ...
Bye
mr.groovie
mr.groovie said:
Hi there, same problem here:[CUT]
mr.groovie
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It's good to find someone with my very same problem...although i've got no solution, still!
Is there someone out there who knows how much would cost a fix and if it's an hw issue or not? Would it be possible to fix it via DIY?
Thanks in advance
Someone suggested me to test the current output on the main contacts to see if the device is actually supplying power to the battery.
So i plugged the wall-charger on the device, took a multimeter, checked the output: the device is supplying 3.5-3-7 volts. So, i suppose it is correctly charging. Why, then, after a turn-off / turn-on the charge level drops after showing as completed?
Could it be a sw problem, then?
USB voltage is 5v. If you are not getting 5v on the USB plug coming from that charger, then that is probably your problem. Have you tried using a USB cable to plug it into your PC to charge?
d0ug said:
USB voltage is 5v. If you are not getting 5v on the USB plug coming from that charger, then that is probably your problem. Have you tried using a USB cable to plug it into your PC to charge?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks for the hint
I suppose the problem is another...in fact those 4 volts are coming from the battery itself. Pluggin in or out the power plug doesn't make any difference.
I tried taking out the battery and there's no power coming through the main contacts of the phone. Is this the right way to check or should i use some different method?
Thanks again
Last question: is there someone who could show me where the recharge circuit should be on the mainboard? Have you got any information about the ease of a diy repair and about the price / availability of the spare part?
Thanks in advance
spidernik84 said:
Last question: is there someone who could show me where the recharge circuit should be on the mainboard? Have you got any information about the ease of a diy repair and about the price / availability of the spare part?
Thanks in advance
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Are you using the wall charger or with the PC. Cus you will get more power input from the Wall. As so i dont know the reg key off hand but if you change one thing you can make it so your phone does not charge off the PC. Maybe you have found a new one!
funman said:
Are you using the wall charger or with the PC. Cus you will get more power input from the Wall. As so i dont know the reg key off hand but if you change one thing you can make it so your phone does not charge off the PC. Maybe you have found a new one!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
With both the wall charger and the pc usb plug. Checked the registry key and no way, it's ok.
It's really incredible, the total charge cycle takes a couple of hours, like if it were charging regularly, but after unplugging it goes down. It is like if the "carge counter" or similar records the charging, with the battery actually not receiving power.
did you solve your problem yet?
toanhung said:
did you solve your problem yet?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hell...no!
Hrm.. This is interesting.. I used to always charge my G1 with AC power. However past couple days, I was lazy and used my laptop USB to charge it. I noticed those days however the battery life was HORRIBLE! I mean I couldnt even get past lets say 9 hours without the battery being at 15-30% and this is without doing anything major. On AC I always got home with 50%.
Has anyone else noticed this? I am using the power profiler mode, so unless something goes out of whack on USB power mode, which I dont see why it would...
(Also I did turn off phone and back on to reset anything just in case) but its just a interesting thing that it seems USB charges suck?
Yes I noticed the same thing, used the computer USB to charge and only lasted about 6 hours of the day. I use the Wall charger and get about 9 hours consistantly. Not sure why but I have noticed this several times........
Mark
Every Tmobile rep I've talked to always say the AC charger does a better job of charging the phone.
Hrm, is this info on a G1 Wiki yet? Would be good info to pass around. My logicial guess is that USB charging can only allow the voltage on the battery to charge to "x" max. While AC power being stronger could bring the battery up more. I cant say thats fully the case.. but since the USB cannot supply the power max a AC could.. its possible.
I've got and idea for a little test, would be helpful to see a lot of different users results as well..
Get Battery Graph, run your phone dead, plug in usb charger and graph. then take a screenshot of the overall charge time, clear graph
Run it dead again, plug in AC charger #1 and and repeat
Repeat the process for each additional recharging apparatus
The reason I mention additional apparatuses is because I think my car's DC charger does better than both ac and usb (tho this will be hard to get a full accurate graph of) , also I use my gf's moto charger from time to time (i know bad mojo)..
This will probably take a few days as charging will take place at sleep time for me but this should give us an over all view of how things are working if we all get pretty consistent results..
Mysticales said:
Hrm.. This is interesting.. I used to always charge my G1 with AC power. However past couple days, I was lazy and used my laptop USB to charge it. I noticed those days however the battery life was HORRIBLE! I mean I couldnt even get past lets say 9 hours without the battery being at 15-30% and this is without doing anything major. On AC I always got home with 50%.
Has anyone else noticed this? I am using the power profiler mode, so unless something goes out of whack on USB power mode, which I dont see why it would...
(Also I did turn off phone and back on to reset anything just in case) but its just a interesting thing that it seems USB charges suck?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I've had 4 different miniUSB charging phones and all of them have had this same behavior. I'm sure that the voltage coming through the USB isn't as strong as AC.
I have the same issue too...!!!
No offense.. but EVERY phone charges better w/AC versus USB .. This is not just a G1 issue .... lol
jamaicansolja said:
No offense.. but EVERY phone charges better w/AC versus USB .. This is not just a G1 issue .... lol
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Indeed.
Also, USB charges at 500 mAh, while the AC gives double if i remember correctly.
jamaicansolja said:
No offense.. but EVERY phone charges better w/AC versus USB .. This is not just a G1 issue .... lol
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Im wondering, if I use my usb while plugged into my laptop (for tether wifi app) will this hamper my battery life? I have the extended battery (2200mah) and I get far better life from it and to be honest I like the bigger size because the g1 felt too much like a toy to me before.
What do you guys think will this mess it up? I dont have wifi at home so the tetherwifi app is the only way I have net on my laptop unless I go somewhere where they have wifi. Cursed neighrbors and there password protected networks!
Might using a USB stepup voltage converter help? I've used it to charge my Nokia phone on usb in the past so it would reach the battery is full message.
The argument is usually that laptop usb don't output adequate voltage.
Its cheap and works for me on the nokia phone, Haven't tried it on the G1 yet though, can anyone find the ac charger's output info?
http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.2649
yea this goes for alot of devices.. my ipod/psp charge pretty slow compared to wall outlet, however i didnt really see strength difference.. never tried USB charging my g1
I think it's worth noting I have the G1, My girlfriend has a HTC Touch(Elfin)
Both use Mini-USB Charging, both have 5V 1A Batteries (can't remember mA rating though)
Through a wall charger, my phone seems to charge quicker, but I get no longer out of it, the same behaviour is exhibited with the Touch. Both USB and the Wall charger are rated at 5V (It would/coul destroy componants methinks if it was any higher).
USB's Specifications say that unless a device has special permissions, It can only draw 500mA, with a maximum of 1000mA and a very rare (as in, one maybe two things use it) 2000mA.
Also, I have a custom made USB charger, that takes 3 AAA batteries (1.5x3 = 4.5)
It causes the phones internal battery to mess up, but does actually charge it (just a lot longer than other methods). It's more of an extended battery however, as it says it is charging, yet the battery life slowly degrades.
It's simple really and it has already been explained.
The USB port on a computer is limited to 500mA for most devices where as AC chargers like
The G1's can rpovide up to 1 Amp, even more/less depending on the chargers.
It doesn't depend on the voltage but on the current delivered. Less current equals
More time to charge and viceversa,
There is no myth.
Strange Question? When my battery dies in the past I used to just plug it into my pc at my desk... DELL T5400... and charge the phone up again.
Though lately I have been using a hard-drive cable and I can't seem to recharge my phone on any pc??
Though I can pretty much download all the information from the phone??
I do have the dutty rom on.... though I don't think that would effect it?
Does any one have any ideas?
Under "Settings -> System -> Power -> Battery",
you find the option "When phone is on, do not charge the battery when connected to a PC".
Perhaps its activated?
CromeX said:
Strange Question? When my battery dies in the past I used to just plug it into my pc at my desk... DELL T5400... and charge the phone up again.
Though lately I have been using a hard-drive cable and I can't seem to recharge my phone on any pc??
Though I can pretty much download all the information from the phone??
I do have the dutty rom on.... though I don't think that would effect it?
Does any one have any ideas?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
If you have let the "battery die" over and over you could well have sent the monotoring circuitry below the charging cutoff point which is voltage dependant.
If the battery still charges from a wall outlet then this is more than likely the case as your wall charger will be rated at 1000mAh whereas the USB port is only 500 mAh max and if you have other devices plugged in at the same time it could well be a lot less and this will now no longer "start" the charging process.
If all this is the case then you have trashed the battery.
If not then charging through the wall socket could partly recover the situation, if you are lucky!
When (if) you get a new battery then keep it on constant charge (wall outlet, USB, car charger, external battery pack etc,etc) as much as possible and try to avoid a full discharge.
You guys are great
Thanks Guys that helped a lot.
I have always been scared of discharging the battery completely, Thank pa49 for confirming that.
I found the default setting for the battery was what jkolner said, Thanks bud .
I appreciate the help
tonight i flashed a WP7 rom downloaded apps and what not. the battery meter seemed to be on par with what BatteryTools was saying.
Now her is what i noticed. When the phone was plugged in to the the wall the indicator light would flash green and orange, but whne its plugged into usb it stays lit up orange.
I was wondering is it receiving to much voltage? the phone can handle the power input, but how about the OS it self. i mean like the way it registers the voltage it is receiving?
jsut my input to see if we can get this fixed.
Btw a full batter would register anywhere from 4200 to 4500 in battery tools under battery voltage.
i am also going to try a brand new battery directly from HTC when it gets here, to see how that does.
sal2708 said:
tonight i flashed a WP7 rom downloaded apps and what not. the battery meter seemed to be on par with what BatteryTools was saying.
Now her is what i noticed. When the phone was plugged in to the the wall the indicator light would flash green and orange, but whne its plugged into usb it stays lit up orange.
I was wondering is it receiving to much voltage? the phone can handle the power input, but how about the OS it self. i mean like the way it registers the voltage it is receiving?
jsut my input to see if we can get this fixed.
Btw a full batter would register anywhere from 4200 to 4500 in battery tools under battery voltage.
Its also possible tha the driver could be having a moment and is refusing to charge the battery forwhat ever reason, because we dont know exactly how this driver works its unlikely we will ever have that fixed.
i am also going to try a brand new battery directly from HTC when it gets here, to see how that does.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Voltage? USB has a 5v regulated supply as does a USB adaptor except its unregulated so plus or minus ~10%
all phones that use a USB connection have a 5V supply, and i think it very unlikely that MS would make a OS that cant handle the power, im not even to sure what you mean by that since its all done with hardware, the driver only dictates how full the battery is and at what point to cut off the charge, which as i have pointed out many many times, the driver ISNT for our device so there will be some odd happenings.
as for the current that doesnt make any difference, just alters how long it will charge i think what your seeing could be a faulty powersupply its also not beyond the reason of doubt that your power supply is dirty in to your home, meaning the voltage from the adaptor is also dirty which may fluctuate the output voltage
Hi guys, in need of a bit of help here.
right, having not realised what i had done, i pulled the battery whilst on charge before i pulled the charger. my current situation is that now the phone is stuck on the loading bit. the version of android i have comes up with "droid" then goes to a red eye like thingy whilst loading. it keeps looping that screen over and over.
after a quick search i saw my problem could have been bent battery connector pins, but alas they are fine.
after another search i reasised what i had done (or at least what i think i have done). would i be right in thinking that the battery now does not have enough power to boot android and get to a point where it can charge the battery?
having seen the threads on here about using a USB lead to manually charge the battery i am at my wits end. i tried the USB fix and it didnt work.
i have now found this thread: http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=978101
and am currently attempting to charge my phone using the "USB mass storage" setting on MAGLDR (v1.13 btw) but the bit that im wondering is the bit that says "you will NOT get a charging indicator in this mode"
does any one know for sure whether this is true? i am hoping that the thread is correct my only doubt has arisen due to the fact that the thread was based on a HD2 running WP7.
thanks in advance for any help
Ben
Try to measure voltage at pin +/- on battery. If there is more than 3,6V battery is able to boot up the phone if voltage is belov 3V it's bad. If You have an adjustable (for laboratory use) voltage source, connect it to pins of phone vhere normally must be connected +/- leads of battery (carefully check polarity), give it 3,7V and try to load the bootloaderon the phone (hold Vol.Down butt and power button together). If it doesn't work, you may have ruined the bootloader.
I read some of the thread you linked. There is something that I think the OP of that thread and a whole lot of people using MAGLDR do not understand. I qoute this straight from the OP of the MAGLDR thread.
*Fixed Power-Off-Cable-Plug-Stop. Phone now detects this situation and reboots. Battery controller inside LEO needs runtime control during charge, it implemented in OS.
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Click to collapse
You have to have a functional OS installed for you to even be able to charge your battery using your HD2 when you have MAGLDR installed on your HD2. The simple fact that the OP of that thred has a WP7 ROM installed on their HD2 is the only reason option #4 USB Mass Stg even will slightly charge the battery, if it was no ROM on the phone, just MAGLDR, it will not charge at all just as when you are in bootloader and the USB connected it will not charge no matter if you have a ROM on the phone or not. I personally think the slight charge you get by using option #4 USB Mass Stg in MAGLDR is purely accidental and only a small amount of voltage as it takes so long to get any kind of substantial charge. Also if you have a completly dead battery you can not even boot into MAGLDR to try to charge using opyion #4 of MAGLDR.
I am a electrician and have been for a little over 15 years and in my oppinion if you have a dead battery and you are running Android from NAND or a WP7 ROM using MAGLDR. Your best bet is to use.
A: A external charging cradle.
B: Another HD2 that is running Win Mo.
C: Using a modified USN cable to get enough charge to boot into your ROM
Note: The last option I listed is only in a emergency situation as I do not advice you use this as a everyday charging technic. Also only long enough to boot your phone so you can finish charging normally. If you do use this option maintain a constant watch of the battery to insure it does not start to become warm, and only use your wall charger when using this method. The voltage is very low that the wall charger sends though the witres so there is no danger of shock.
Do You mean that when HD2 is POWER OFF state it doesn't charge battery? Even from wall charger? Mine does charging pretty well when turned OFF...
All phones I repaired or dizassembled had hardware automatic for charging battery, not depending of ROM or OS at all, it must have only 5V at charger inlet (USB or dedicated charger port i.e. for NOKIA), I doubt if HTC gone other way that all other developers
C: Using a modified USN cable to get enough charge to boot into your ROM
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Can You tell me more about this cable? Any schematics?
pvii said:
Do You mean that when HD2 is POWER OFF state it doesn't charge battery? Even from wall charger? Mine does charging pretty well when turned OFF...
All phones I repaired or dizassembled had hardware automatic for charging battery, not depending of ROM or OS at all, it must have only 5V at charger inlet (USB or dedicated charger port i.e. for NOKIA), I doubt if HTC gone other way that all other developers
Can You tell me more about this cable? Any schematics?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes a HD2 can charge in a powered off state if you are still running a Windows Mobile ROM on it. If you have flashed MAGLDR to your HD2 you will not be able to charge your HD2 until you flash a Android or WP7 ROM to it as the charging is to quote the OP of the MAGLDR thread again, "Battery controller inside LEO needs runtime control during charge, it implemented in OS."
As for as a schematic no real need for a schematic. You take and cut the end off of a USB cable, the end you leave on needs to bt a standard USB male end. Next you strip back the outer insulation and the inner foil layer, then strip a little off the ends of the black and red wires. Finally connect the red wire to the positive terminal of the battery (marked on the battery), and connect the black wire to the negative terminal on the battery (marked on battery) and plug the USB male end of the cable into your wall charger, not any other power source. Yopui can use some tape to keep the ends connected to the battery.
T-Macgnolia said:
As for as a schematic no real need for a schematic. You take and cut the end off of a USB cable, the end you leave on needs to bt a standard USB male end. Next you strip back the outer insulation and the inner foil layer, then strip a little off the ends of the black and red wires. Finally connect the red wire to the positive terminal of the battery (marked on the battery), and connect the black wire to the negative terminal on the battery (marked on battery) and plug the USB male end of the cable into your wall charger, not any other power source. Yopui can use some tape to keep the ends connected to the battery.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You tried this even one time???
NEVER DO THAT, YOU WILL RUIN YOUR Li-ION BATTERY!!!!
Li-ION charges at no more that 4,2V, internal protection circuit will shut it off if you get it to 5V charger directly and if this protection accidentally will not work your battery blows up! 5V must be applied to USB port ONLY if you want your battery and phone alive
unfortunately i dont have a way of measuring the voltage of the battery, i have now just bitten the bullet and ordered another battery and an external charger. that way if the battery i have now is dead i have a replacment and if it just needs charging then ill have two batteries. having tried the USB cable charging bodge and it not work im thinking i have killed the battery. i use LiPo batteries in my airsoft stuff so i know that they can die if not treated properly. my own silly fault i guess haha.
ill update tomorrow once the charger and battery have arrived.
what do you guys think will be wrong with it if a new full charged battery doesnt work?
airsoft_ben_1989 said:
unfortunately i dont have a way of measuring the voltage of the battery, i have now just bitten the bullet and ordered another battery and an external charger. that way if the battery i have now is dead i have a replacment and if it just needs charging then ill have two batteries. having tried the USB cable charging bodge and it not work im thinking i have killed the battery. i use LiPo batteries in my airsoft stuff so i know that they can die if not treated properly. my own silly fault i guess haha.
ill update tomorrow once the charger and battery have arrived.
what do you guys think will be wrong with it if a new full charged battery doesnt work?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
If your new battery wont work than you probably may have a dead charging circuitry on your mainboard (sudden death when removing a battery during charging process) and if that circuit works only under OS control, IMHO your mainboard is useless too. Have to be replaced or repaired.
fair enough, thanks mate. fingers crossed for tomorrow the hehe
pvii said:
You tried this even one time???
NEVER DO THAT, YOU WILL RUIN YOUR Li-ION BATTERY!!!!
Li-ION charges at no more that 4,2V, internal protection circuit will shut it off if you get it to 5V charger directly and if this protection accidentally will not work your battery blows up! 5V must be applied to USB port ONLY if you want your battery and phone alive
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have not personally tried charging a my battery this way bit I know several people on her that have and it does charge the battery. If it did not work for the OP of this thread than they either did not have a good connection between the wires or the battery is not chargeable anymore.
Look at your wall charger it should say on your wall charger that the output is 5.0 v or 5.1 v. This is pretty much a standard on all wall chargers for phones as they all require the same voltage. Yes there is a protection system that monitors the charging voltage and if you use the modified cable to charge you do not have this protection system. But your wall charger unless the small transformer in the actual plug part that is the charger malfunctions will only put out 5v, actually it will probably be more like 3.5v as the 5v is Max output capacity. Also if the transformer malfunctions it is just going to melt down and not put out a charge what so ever, it will not cause a spike in voltage. Trust me on this one, my job requers I have a full understanding of transformers be it a big one are a little one as I have to work with them all of the time. But I did put my warning in there for a reason as this can kill the battery where it can no longer charge, and even though it is menamal it is a small risk of the battery exploding, but it is a very small risk.
pvii said:
You tried this even one time???
NEVER DO THAT, YOU WILL RUIN YOUR Li-ION BATTERY!!!!
Li-ION charges at no more that 4,2V, internal protection circuit will shut it off if you get it to 5V charger directly and if this protection accidentally will not work your battery blows up! 5V must be applied to USB port ONLY if you want your battery and phone alive
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Just for info I've done this twice, once thru wall once thru usb slot. It only needs about 45 seconds to get enough charge to start booting, and charging starts about halfway through the boot.
you are right that it isn't recommended, of course, but then most of what goes on on this site isn't recommended for a healthy phone
T-Macgnolia said:
I have not personally tried charging a my battery this way bit I know several people on her that have and it does charge the battery. If it did not work for the OP of this thread than they either did not have a good connection between the wires or the battery is not chargeable anymore.
Look at your wall charger it should say on your wall charger that the output is 5.0 v or 5.1 v. This is pretty much a standard on all wall chargers for phones as they all require the same voltage. Yes there is a protection system that monitors the charging voltage and if you use the modified cable to charge you do not have this protection system. But your wall charger unless the small transformer in the actual plug part that is the charger malfunctions will only put out 5v, actually it will probably be more like 3.5v as the 5v is Max output capacity. Also if the transformer malfunctions it is just going to melt down and not put out a charge what so ever, it will not cause a spike in voltage. Trust me on this one, my job requers I have a full understanding of transformers be it a big one are a little one as I have to work with them all of the time. But I did put my warning in there for a reason as this can kill the battery where it can no longer charge, and even though it is menamal it is a small risk of the battery exploding, but it is a very small risk.
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Click to collapse
Man, I do not intend to start a holy-war about it
It's a little off-topic, but seems that you do not have idea how these power stage of mobile devises works (from wall outlet to battery), all mobile devices are very similar in this aspect, simply google what is Li-Ion battery advisor, how it works and rules of charging Li-ion batteries, there are a huge bunch of forums specially dedicated to this theme...
pvii said:
Man, I do not intend to start a holy-war about it
It's a little off-topic, but seems that you do not have idea how these power stage of mobile devises works (from wall outlet to battery), all mobile devices are very similar in this aspect, simply google what is Li-Ion battery advisor, how it works and rules of charging Li-ion batteries, there are a huge bunch of forums specially dedicated to this theme...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Ok first of I am not madd by no means, and no it is not off topic as people need to be able to know these things. As I have seen in a couple of XDA members signatures "I am learning from you, and you are learning from me."
I Googled the Li-Ion battery advisor and found the PDF I think you were talking about as it was the first two links Google pulled up. But I have to tell you what is discussed in that PDF is on Li-ion batteries for vehicles not cell phones. Those batteries are much large and there for data in that PDF can not necessarily by applied to cell phone LI-ion batteries, unless you care to educate me further.
Like I said I have been a electrician for going on 15 years now, I know how to read electrical schematics, I know how electricity flows, I know about positive and negative charges, I know a lot I will just put it that way. If you have further links YOU would like me to check out I will be glad to. But from my prospective what I mentioned as a emergency charging method is no more dangerous than shaving with a disposable razor.
right so the new battery doesnt work, charged it in the external charger and nothing. same as before just looping on the Droid boot up screen.
would it be worth flashing back to WM6.5 as a last resort?
airsoft_ben_1989 said:
right so the new battery doesnt work, charged it in the external charger and nothing. same as before just looping on the Droid boot up screen.
would it be worth flashing back to WM6.5 as a last resort?
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Any photos of boot screen?
Try to flash back to older official WM ROM with regular SPL (flash from SD card not thru PC sink), else HSPL and that custom bot manager wont be erased from NAND. May be it will help You, I used this method when my touch stopped responding and it was a solution for me.
pvii said:
Any photos of boot screen?
Try to flash back to older official WM ROM with regular SPL (flash from SD card not thru PC sink), else HSPL and that custom bot manager wont be erased from NAND. May be it will help You, I used this method when my touch stopped responding and it was a solution for me.
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You are correct to tell the OP to flash via SD card or they would still have HSPL. but the custum boot manager as you called it is actually a custom bootloader. And if you flash a Windows Mobile ROM be it custom or official through RUU or SD card it is gone. MAGLDR or cLK bootloader run in sesession of the original bootloader meanning you never lose the original boot loader( if you did you would have a bricked phone) and that it is not in the same partition of the NAND memory as the original bootloader. MAGLDR, CLK, AND CWM are in the same partition as the OS, therefore when you flash back to a Win Mo ROM you lose them.
HSPL would not have anything to do with the OP's problem as it is part of the original bootloader and the two main purposes for HSPL is to one beablecto flash a official ROM that is not meant for your HD2 without having to use a gold card, and to disable the CID check so you can flash custom firmware.
At the OP have you had a look at your battery pins to make sure they are all in properly aligned with each other and that one is not bent?