Related
Hrm.. This is interesting.. I used to always charge my G1 with AC power. However past couple days, I was lazy and used my laptop USB to charge it. I noticed those days however the battery life was HORRIBLE! I mean I couldnt even get past lets say 9 hours without the battery being at 15-30% and this is without doing anything major. On AC I always got home with 50%.
Has anyone else noticed this? I am using the power profiler mode, so unless something goes out of whack on USB power mode, which I dont see why it would...
(Also I did turn off phone and back on to reset anything just in case) but its just a interesting thing that it seems USB charges suck?
Yes I noticed the same thing, used the computer USB to charge and only lasted about 6 hours of the day. I use the Wall charger and get about 9 hours consistantly. Not sure why but I have noticed this several times........
Mark
Every Tmobile rep I've talked to always say the AC charger does a better job of charging the phone.
Hrm, is this info on a G1 Wiki yet? Would be good info to pass around. My logicial guess is that USB charging can only allow the voltage on the battery to charge to "x" max. While AC power being stronger could bring the battery up more. I cant say thats fully the case.. but since the USB cannot supply the power max a AC could.. its possible.
I've got and idea for a little test, would be helpful to see a lot of different users results as well..
Get Battery Graph, run your phone dead, plug in usb charger and graph. then take a screenshot of the overall charge time, clear graph
Run it dead again, plug in AC charger #1 and and repeat
Repeat the process for each additional recharging apparatus
The reason I mention additional apparatuses is because I think my car's DC charger does better than both ac and usb (tho this will be hard to get a full accurate graph of) , also I use my gf's moto charger from time to time (i know bad mojo)..
This will probably take a few days as charging will take place at sleep time for me but this should give us an over all view of how things are working if we all get pretty consistent results..
Mysticales said:
Hrm.. This is interesting.. I used to always charge my G1 with AC power. However past couple days, I was lazy and used my laptop USB to charge it. I noticed those days however the battery life was HORRIBLE! I mean I couldnt even get past lets say 9 hours without the battery being at 15-30% and this is without doing anything major. On AC I always got home with 50%.
Has anyone else noticed this? I am using the power profiler mode, so unless something goes out of whack on USB power mode, which I dont see why it would...
(Also I did turn off phone and back on to reset anything just in case) but its just a interesting thing that it seems USB charges suck?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I've had 4 different miniUSB charging phones and all of them have had this same behavior. I'm sure that the voltage coming through the USB isn't as strong as AC.
I have the same issue too...!!!
No offense.. but EVERY phone charges better w/AC versus USB .. This is not just a G1 issue .... lol
jamaicansolja said:
No offense.. but EVERY phone charges better w/AC versus USB .. This is not just a G1 issue .... lol
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Indeed.
Also, USB charges at 500 mAh, while the AC gives double if i remember correctly.
jamaicansolja said:
No offense.. but EVERY phone charges better w/AC versus USB .. This is not just a G1 issue .... lol
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Im wondering, if I use my usb while plugged into my laptop (for tether wifi app) will this hamper my battery life? I have the extended battery (2200mah) and I get far better life from it and to be honest I like the bigger size because the g1 felt too much like a toy to me before.
What do you guys think will this mess it up? I dont have wifi at home so the tetherwifi app is the only way I have net on my laptop unless I go somewhere where they have wifi. Cursed neighrbors and there password protected networks!
Might using a USB stepup voltage converter help? I've used it to charge my Nokia phone on usb in the past so it would reach the battery is full message.
The argument is usually that laptop usb don't output adequate voltage.
Its cheap and works for me on the nokia phone, Haven't tried it on the G1 yet though, can anyone find the ac charger's output info?
http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.2649
yea this goes for alot of devices.. my ipod/psp charge pretty slow compared to wall outlet, however i didnt really see strength difference.. never tried USB charging my g1
I think it's worth noting I have the G1, My girlfriend has a HTC Touch(Elfin)
Both use Mini-USB Charging, both have 5V 1A Batteries (can't remember mA rating though)
Through a wall charger, my phone seems to charge quicker, but I get no longer out of it, the same behaviour is exhibited with the Touch. Both USB and the Wall charger are rated at 5V (It would/coul destroy componants methinks if it was any higher).
USB's Specifications say that unless a device has special permissions, It can only draw 500mA, with a maximum of 1000mA and a very rare (as in, one maybe two things use it) 2000mA.
Also, I have a custom made USB charger, that takes 3 AAA batteries (1.5x3 = 4.5)
It causes the phones internal battery to mess up, but does actually charge it (just a lot longer than other methods). It's more of an extended battery however, as it says it is charging, yet the battery life slowly degrades.
It's simple really and it has already been explained.
The USB port on a computer is limited to 500mA for most devices where as AC chargers like
The G1's can rpovide up to 1 Amp, even more/less depending on the chargers.
It doesn't depend on the voltage but on the current delivered. Less current equals
More time to charge and viceversa,
There is no myth.
Came from a TP2 and I could charge via USB at around 900 mA using fast charge driver.
Since I am a complete Android n00b, and an EVO n00b I have two questions.
1. Are there any apps out there that can show you how fast the battery is charging and discharging? I had one called Battery Monitor in WM, and I want an Android version of that.
2. It appears that USB charging is quite slow. Can anyone confirm the speed at which this phone charges via a USB port?
3. Is there a way to make this faster?
TIA!!
1. Are there any apps out there that can show you how fast the battery is charging and discharging? I had one called Battery Monitor in WM, and I want an Android version of that.
2. It appears that USB charging is quite slow. Can anyone confirm the speed at which this phone charges via a USB port?
3. Is there a way to make this faster?
A 1. I don't believe there is one (someone correct me if wrong), but there are apps to monitor your battery percentage.
A 2. Not sure, shouldn't be too long, how long is it taking yours?
A 3. I don't believe so.
Hero's Hero said:
1. Are there any apps out there that can show you how fast the battery is charging and discharging? I had one called Battery Monitor in WM, and I want an Android version of that.
2. It appears that USB charging is quite slow. Can anyone confirm the speed at which this phone charges via a USB port?
3. Is there a way to make this faster?
A 1. I don't believe there is one (someone correct me if wrong), but there are apps to monitor your battery percentage.
A 2. Not sure, shouldn't be too long, how long is it taking yours?
A 3. I don't believe so.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks...Not sure how long it takes as I havent had the phone too long. I know while plugged into my computer last night it wouldn't charge very well.
Computers have much lower power than a wall socket. If you want to charge the EVO fast use the wall plug. Anyone who uses a Mac and the wired keyboard should know what I am talking about.
Please search before posting...
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=591041
A USB port provides 500ma of power, you can get micro USB cable that will Y off and plug into two USB ports, providing 1000ma of power.
Grims said:
A USB port provides 500ma of power, you can get micro USB cable that will Y off and plug into two USB ports, providing 1000ma of power.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Every computer I owned charged my TP2 at around 800-900 mA as long as the fast charge driver was on the phone.
So I know for a fact that it's possible. It's limited by the phone, not the USB port. Appreciate the reply, but did you read Negrito's link?
And Negrito, I did search... This forum.... No hits. I see the link you provided was in the Hero forum. I didn't realize that the fast charge USB issue was affecting other Android phones as this is my first.
supdawg said:
And Negrito, I did search... This forum.... No hits. I see the link you provided was in the Hero forum. I didn't realize that the fast charge USB issue was affecting other Android phones as this is my first.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
My bad broseph, totally forgot im still subscribed to Hero threads. I just switched to the Evo Launch day.
Its not really an issue per se as that's how all phones normally operate. On WinMo we just got spoiled my No2Chems hack. Anyone know if No2Chem made the jump to Android?
I have seen a lot of familiar names on the Evo forum, like OMJ, and Caulkin!!! I cant wait until someone comes up with an untethered root option and how to bypass the NAND cause I know the ROMs are just going to be simply amazing.
Was digging around in the custom menus, can't remember which one, but one of the ones that you type ##numbers# and enter your MSL and there was a check box for USB charging. Mine was unchecked for some reason. I left it alone but wonder if that makes a difference?
I've tested a few charging scenarios and can tell you that using a wall charger that outputs 1000 ma will help speed up the charge.
These from Monoprice work very well:
http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=103&cp_id=10311&cs_id=1031106&p_id=6767&seq=1&format=2
want the same thing for the car?
try this one.
Here's the link to a micro usb cable at monoprice for $1.20.
There's a nice Rosewill 4 port charger, that will output 2000 ma IF you have only one device plugged in. With two devices plugged in, it falls back to 1000 ma (still really good). I have this in the kitchen for the kids to jack their various usb things in for charging.
The thing to remember is that the phone will pull as much as it can (most recent phones can pull between 750 and 1000 ma.) What will cause it to charge slower is not usually a software setting, it's having a port that will only put out 500 ma or less...which is what many computers output.
Sean
there is an option in settings /devolopment for usb charging doesnt ssy what it does though
I don't think mine has taken more than 4-5 hours to fully charge and signal strength isn't the greatest at my house so that probably has an impact on it as well... I've no idea if that's normal for a smartphone or if it's considered slow, I don't think my Sony Ericsson feature phone was any faster but the battery indicator on that thing was wildly inaccurate anyway.
My EVO seems to charge just as fast w/the included HTC adapter as with a generic Philips one I had, as well as one of those retractable cables. I was afraid that cable wouldn't be very well shielded and it wouldn't charge right but it seems fine, I'll only be using it when I travel anyway.
Negrito said:
My bad broseph, totally forgot im still subscribed to Hero threads. I just switched to the Evo Launch day.
Its not really an issue per se as that's how all phones normally operate. On WinMo we just got spoiled my No2Chems hack. Anyone know if No2Chem made the jump to Android?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
No one has seen nor heard from No2Chem in months... Some people think he may have died
I could charge my Touch Pro 2 in about an hour or two using a standard usb plug on any computer I owned.
Might I add the Touch Pro 2 and the EVO share the same identical battery. The EVO obviously draws more current..... I found while using my EVO while plugged into a computer, it barely charges at all. My guess is its discharging while charging at a very similar rate.
Contrary to what most of you are saying, the ma rating of the charger really makes no difference as the phone (and prior htc phones) will pull <500ma if they detect they are plugged into a computer or non-official charger and 1a if they detect an htc charger (which can even damage 500ma chargers). The way this is detected is through grounding of one of the microusb pins in the official charger (and indeed many generic chargers but not all will be detected this way). Absent this grounding (I forget which pin), it will charge at a slower speed. I know of cheap 500ma chargers which have been caused to smoke by attaching a cable with that grounding fooling the phone into thinking it is an oem charger. Many chargers labeled 1a will charge at the 500ma rate as well.
Also, modern computers are fully capable of outputting 1a of power through the usb port. While the spec indeed is 500ma, with a proper cable (or the fastcharge driver for windows mobile), you can force a 1a power draw without any issues. Cheap usb hubs or cheap usb power ports may run into issues.
I'd love to see a solution for android but I don't think one exists.
Actually the HTC battery Widget will show you if you are on AC (1A) or USB (500ma) charge. You can get this widget from the market (not sure why it is not included in the phone in the first place).
I think that the grounding pin is likely the trick and I will be searching the web to see if I can locate it. I have an older battery pack from APC that can output 1.6A but the only way to get the EVO to charge as if it was on "AC" is to use the HTC plug, and then quickly, before the charge light goes out switch to my alternate source. This seems to trick the EVO into thinking that it is still plugged in to the official charger.
This is of course trickier with my car charger, which has been very frustrating - using the phone for navigation and plugged in via usb usually has the battery draining rather than charging!
I wish there was an easy way to fix this, my old phones always attempted to pull as much current as they needed.
My friend uses a 2A charger for his HTC touch pro 2, and it uses the same battery as the EVO if u guys didnt know.
i havent tried it on my evo, but being its from htc too (and uses the same battery)... id expect it to work with that much current.
I currently use a 900mA one in my car, and i do notice that if i use something less than that i tend to get feedback from the audio jack that connects to my cassette player
Found a discussion on this on the android forums relating to the HTC Desire:
<Too new of a user, system won't let me post the link>
I opened a car charger and shorted pins 2 and 3, and the phone did show charging over AC (2 and 3 are the data pins, 1 & 2 are power). My multimeter was acting up, so I am not sure whether the EVO is actually pulling more current - it does appear to be charging faster.
If you try this make sure of 2 things:
1. You charger is capable of 1A.
2. If you choose to short the pins on a USB cable make sure this cable never gets plugged in to your PC.
Rennat said:
Computers have much lower power than a wall socket. If you want to charge the EVO fast use the wall plug. Anyone who uses a Mac and the wired keyboard should know what I am talking about.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I know what you mean! Haha
supdawg said:
Came from a TP2 and I could charge via USB at around 900 mA using fast charge driver.
Since I am a complete Android n00b, and an EVO n00b I have two questions.
1. Are there any apps out there that can show you how fast the battery is charging and discharging? I had one called Battery Monitor in WM, and I want an Android version of that.
2. It appears that USB charging is quite slow. Can anyone confirm the speed at which this phone charges via a USB port?
3. Is there a way to make this faster?
TIA!!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
For your Q #1 search the market for Battery Indicator, great simple app that gives you a battery percentage and how long you have been plugged in or unplugged.
rwtelecom said:
HTC HD2 T8585
When connect to usb via PC or wall charger no response at all from phone.
i tried fixing the middle battery terminal but it doesnt work at all.
hope somebody could help me with these...
thank you in advance!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
try to connect the charger when the phone is off (not sleep, completly off)...if it's charge then uncheck the "Don't charge if connected to PC" or something like that setting is the power option...
If you can get a voltmeter that can test low voltage and use the test leads to test the positive and the negative pins, look at the battery to figure out witch ones these are as the battery is marked positive and negative. Also make sure you have your phone plugged into the wall charger while you are conducting the testing. I am not sure what voltage reading you should get as I don't know the exact voltage it takes to charge the battery, but it should be a pretty low voltage. If you get a reading between the positive and negative you are getting voltage to the battery and your problem is either software or your battery is no longer any good. If you don't get a voltage reading then you are not getting voltage to the battery and you probably have a hardware problem somewhere in the phone.
Also is the led lighting up when you plug the phone in to charge?
Ok I just tested my battery leads with a tester. I got a constant 00.3 volts on my tester testing from positive to negative. If you are getting this reading you are getting voltage to your battery. I would take a very close look at the pins(leads) that connectar to the battery, especially if you do a battery pull as your means of reseting your HD2 instead of using the reset button. A lot of wear and tear on these pins can cause very minor bends in them that can cause all kinds of ptoblems for users. Use a magifiying glass if you have to as they could be such a small difference in the pins that you can not tell with hour naked eye.
What I am concered about though is the fact you say your led is not lighting up when you are plugged into the wall charger nd that you have tried another battery. Also just for your benifit I recomend using the wall charger to charge your phone as the computer does not charge as fast, leading me to think it does not put out the same voltage. Anyway though you can try a hard reset and see if the led comes on then. If not you most likely have a hardware issue.
Also if you can not get it to work you can always buy a external charger to charge your battery. But I also suggest you get another battery if you do this so you can always hve a charged battery to uze while the other charges.
What os? Do you have magldr installed? Flashed any roms or radios lately?
rwtelecom said:
but its puzzling me, if usb port working, has voltage output on battery terminal, so why it doesnt detect by the computer? anyone can help me please?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Well, it could be the battery went bad. You'd have to replace it to find out.
As a last resort, you could also buy an external charger off ebay. They are inexpensive. I have one for my backup battery.
EDIT: I just remembered the check box for "Do Not Charge My Battery" in the settings menu under Settings / System / Battery. There is a check box, but this should not affect the wall charger.
Hi guys, in need of a bit of help here.
right, having not realised what i had done, i pulled the battery whilst on charge before i pulled the charger. my current situation is that now the phone is stuck on the loading bit. the version of android i have comes up with "droid" then goes to a red eye like thingy whilst loading. it keeps looping that screen over and over.
after a quick search i saw my problem could have been bent battery connector pins, but alas they are fine.
after another search i reasised what i had done (or at least what i think i have done). would i be right in thinking that the battery now does not have enough power to boot android and get to a point where it can charge the battery?
having seen the threads on here about using a USB lead to manually charge the battery i am at my wits end. i tried the USB fix and it didnt work.
i have now found this thread: http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=978101
and am currently attempting to charge my phone using the "USB mass storage" setting on MAGLDR (v1.13 btw) but the bit that im wondering is the bit that says "you will NOT get a charging indicator in this mode"
does any one know for sure whether this is true? i am hoping that the thread is correct my only doubt has arisen due to the fact that the thread was based on a HD2 running WP7.
thanks in advance for any help
Ben
Try to measure voltage at pin +/- on battery. If there is more than 3,6V battery is able to boot up the phone if voltage is belov 3V it's bad. If You have an adjustable (for laboratory use) voltage source, connect it to pins of phone vhere normally must be connected +/- leads of battery (carefully check polarity), give it 3,7V and try to load the bootloaderon the phone (hold Vol.Down butt and power button together). If it doesn't work, you may have ruined the bootloader.
I read some of the thread you linked. There is something that I think the OP of that thread and a whole lot of people using MAGLDR do not understand. I qoute this straight from the OP of the MAGLDR thread.
*Fixed Power-Off-Cable-Plug-Stop. Phone now detects this situation and reboots. Battery controller inside LEO needs runtime control during charge, it implemented in OS.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You have to have a functional OS installed for you to even be able to charge your battery using your HD2 when you have MAGLDR installed on your HD2. The simple fact that the OP of that thred has a WP7 ROM installed on their HD2 is the only reason option #4 USB Mass Stg even will slightly charge the battery, if it was no ROM on the phone, just MAGLDR, it will not charge at all just as when you are in bootloader and the USB connected it will not charge no matter if you have a ROM on the phone or not. I personally think the slight charge you get by using option #4 USB Mass Stg in MAGLDR is purely accidental and only a small amount of voltage as it takes so long to get any kind of substantial charge. Also if you have a completly dead battery you can not even boot into MAGLDR to try to charge using opyion #4 of MAGLDR.
I am a electrician and have been for a little over 15 years and in my oppinion if you have a dead battery and you are running Android from NAND or a WP7 ROM using MAGLDR. Your best bet is to use.
A: A external charging cradle.
B: Another HD2 that is running Win Mo.
C: Using a modified USN cable to get enough charge to boot into your ROM
Note: The last option I listed is only in a emergency situation as I do not advice you use this as a everyday charging technic. Also only long enough to boot your phone so you can finish charging normally. If you do use this option maintain a constant watch of the battery to insure it does not start to become warm, and only use your wall charger when using this method. The voltage is very low that the wall charger sends though the witres so there is no danger of shock.
Do You mean that when HD2 is POWER OFF state it doesn't charge battery? Even from wall charger? Mine does charging pretty well when turned OFF...
All phones I repaired or dizassembled had hardware automatic for charging battery, not depending of ROM or OS at all, it must have only 5V at charger inlet (USB or dedicated charger port i.e. for NOKIA), I doubt if HTC gone other way that all other developers
C: Using a modified USN cable to get enough charge to boot into your ROM
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Can You tell me more about this cable? Any schematics?
pvii said:
Do You mean that when HD2 is POWER OFF state it doesn't charge battery? Even from wall charger? Mine does charging pretty well when turned OFF...
All phones I repaired or dizassembled had hardware automatic for charging battery, not depending of ROM or OS at all, it must have only 5V at charger inlet (USB or dedicated charger port i.e. for NOKIA), I doubt if HTC gone other way that all other developers
Can You tell me more about this cable? Any schematics?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes a HD2 can charge in a powered off state if you are still running a Windows Mobile ROM on it. If you have flashed MAGLDR to your HD2 you will not be able to charge your HD2 until you flash a Android or WP7 ROM to it as the charging is to quote the OP of the MAGLDR thread again, "Battery controller inside LEO needs runtime control during charge, it implemented in OS."
As for as a schematic no real need for a schematic. You take and cut the end off of a USB cable, the end you leave on needs to bt a standard USB male end. Next you strip back the outer insulation and the inner foil layer, then strip a little off the ends of the black and red wires. Finally connect the red wire to the positive terminal of the battery (marked on the battery), and connect the black wire to the negative terminal on the battery (marked on battery) and plug the USB male end of the cable into your wall charger, not any other power source. Yopui can use some tape to keep the ends connected to the battery.
T-Macgnolia said:
As for as a schematic no real need for a schematic. You take and cut the end off of a USB cable, the end you leave on needs to bt a standard USB male end. Next you strip back the outer insulation and the inner foil layer, then strip a little off the ends of the black and red wires. Finally connect the red wire to the positive terminal of the battery (marked on the battery), and connect the black wire to the negative terminal on the battery (marked on battery) and plug the USB male end of the cable into your wall charger, not any other power source. Yopui can use some tape to keep the ends connected to the battery.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You tried this even one time???
NEVER DO THAT, YOU WILL RUIN YOUR Li-ION BATTERY!!!!
Li-ION charges at no more that 4,2V, internal protection circuit will shut it off if you get it to 5V charger directly and if this protection accidentally will not work your battery blows up! 5V must be applied to USB port ONLY if you want your battery and phone alive
unfortunately i dont have a way of measuring the voltage of the battery, i have now just bitten the bullet and ordered another battery and an external charger. that way if the battery i have now is dead i have a replacment and if it just needs charging then ill have two batteries. having tried the USB cable charging bodge and it not work im thinking i have killed the battery. i use LiPo batteries in my airsoft stuff so i know that they can die if not treated properly. my own silly fault i guess haha.
ill update tomorrow once the charger and battery have arrived.
what do you guys think will be wrong with it if a new full charged battery doesnt work?
airsoft_ben_1989 said:
unfortunately i dont have a way of measuring the voltage of the battery, i have now just bitten the bullet and ordered another battery and an external charger. that way if the battery i have now is dead i have a replacment and if it just needs charging then ill have two batteries. having tried the USB cable charging bodge and it not work im thinking i have killed the battery. i use LiPo batteries in my airsoft stuff so i know that they can die if not treated properly. my own silly fault i guess haha.
ill update tomorrow once the charger and battery have arrived.
what do you guys think will be wrong with it if a new full charged battery doesnt work?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
If your new battery wont work than you probably may have a dead charging circuitry on your mainboard (sudden death when removing a battery during charging process) and if that circuit works only under OS control, IMHO your mainboard is useless too. Have to be replaced or repaired.
fair enough, thanks mate. fingers crossed for tomorrow the hehe
pvii said:
You tried this even one time???
NEVER DO THAT, YOU WILL RUIN YOUR Li-ION BATTERY!!!!
Li-ION charges at no more that 4,2V, internal protection circuit will shut it off if you get it to 5V charger directly and if this protection accidentally will not work your battery blows up! 5V must be applied to USB port ONLY if you want your battery and phone alive
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have not personally tried charging a my battery this way bit I know several people on her that have and it does charge the battery. If it did not work for the OP of this thread than they either did not have a good connection between the wires or the battery is not chargeable anymore.
Look at your wall charger it should say on your wall charger that the output is 5.0 v or 5.1 v. This is pretty much a standard on all wall chargers for phones as they all require the same voltage. Yes there is a protection system that monitors the charging voltage and if you use the modified cable to charge you do not have this protection system. But your wall charger unless the small transformer in the actual plug part that is the charger malfunctions will only put out 5v, actually it will probably be more like 3.5v as the 5v is Max output capacity. Also if the transformer malfunctions it is just going to melt down and not put out a charge what so ever, it will not cause a spike in voltage. Trust me on this one, my job requers I have a full understanding of transformers be it a big one are a little one as I have to work with them all of the time. But I did put my warning in there for a reason as this can kill the battery where it can no longer charge, and even though it is menamal it is a small risk of the battery exploding, but it is a very small risk.
pvii said:
You tried this even one time???
NEVER DO THAT, YOU WILL RUIN YOUR Li-ION BATTERY!!!!
Li-ION charges at no more that 4,2V, internal protection circuit will shut it off if you get it to 5V charger directly and if this protection accidentally will not work your battery blows up! 5V must be applied to USB port ONLY if you want your battery and phone alive
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Just for info I've done this twice, once thru wall once thru usb slot. It only needs about 45 seconds to get enough charge to start booting, and charging starts about halfway through the boot.
you are right that it isn't recommended, of course, but then most of what goes on on this site isn't recommended for a healthy phone
T-Macgnolia said:
I have not personally tried charging a my battery this way bit I know several people on her that have and it does charge the battery. If it did not work for the OP of this thread than they either did not have a good connection between the wires or the battery is not chargeable anymore.
Look at your wall charger it should say on your wall charger that the output is 5.0 v or 5.1 v. This is pretty much a standard on all wall chargers for phones as they all require the same voltage. Yes there is a protection system that monitors the charging voltage and if you use the modified cable to charge you do not have this protection system. But your wall charger unless the small transformer in the actual plug part that is the charger malfunctions will only put out 5v, actually it will probably be more like 3.5v as the 5v is Max output capacity. Also if the transformer malfunctions it is just going to melt down and not put out a charge what so ever, it will not cause a spike in voltage. Trust me on this one, my job requers I have a full understanding of transformers be it a big one are a little one as I have to work with them all of the time. But I did put my warning in there for a reason as this can kill the battery where it can no longer charge, and even though it is menamal it is a small risk of the battery exploding, but it is a very small risk.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Man, I do not intend to start a holy-war about it
It's a little off-topic, but seems that you do not have idea how these power stage of mobile devises works (from wall outlet to battery), all mobile devices are very similar in this aspect, simply google what is Li-Ion battery advisor, how it works and rules of charging Li-ion batteries, there are a huge bunch of forums specially dedicated to this theme...
pvii said:
Man, I do not intend to start a holy-war about it
It's a little off-topic, but seems that you do not have idea how these power stage of mobile devises works (from wall outlet to battery), all mobile devices are very similar in this aspect, simply google what is Li-Ion battery advisor, how it works and rules of charging Li-ion batteries, there are a huge bunch of forums specially dedicated to this theme...
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Ok first of I am not madd by no means, and no it is not off topic as people need to be able to know these things. As I have seen in a couple of XDA members signatures "I am learning from you, and you are learning from me."
I Googled the Li-Ion battery advisor and found the PDF I think you were talking about as it was the first two links Google pulled up. But I have to tell you what is discussed in that PDF is on Li-ion batteries for vehicles not cell phones. Those batteries are much large and there for data in that PDF can not necessarily by applied to cell phone LI-ion batteries, unless you care to educate me further.
Like I said I have been a electrician for going on 15 years now, I know how to read electrical schematics, I know how electricity flows, I know about positive and negative charges, I know a lot I will just put it that way. If you have further links YOU would like me to check out I will be glad to. But from my prospective what I mentioned as a emergency charging method is no more dangerous than shaving with a disposable razor.
right so the new battery doesnt work, charged it in the external charger and nothing. same as before just looping on the Droid boot up screen.
would it be worth flashing back to WM6.5 as a last resort?
airsoft_ben_1989 said:
right so the new battery doesnt work, charged it in the external charger and nothing. same as before just looping on the Droid boot up screen.
would it be worth flashing back to WM6.5 as a last resort?
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Any photos of boot screen?
Try to flash back to older official WM ROM with regular SPL (flash from SD card not thru PC sink), else HSPL and that custom bot manager wont be erased from NAND. May be it will help You, I used this method when my touch stopped responding and it was a solution for me.
pvii said:
Any photos of boot screen?
Try to flash back to older official WM ROM with regular SPL (flash from SD card not thru PC sink), else HSPL and that custom bot manager wont be erased from NAND. May be it will help You, I used this method when my touch stopped responding and it was a solution for me.
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You are correct to tell the OP to flash via SD card or they would still have HSPL. but the custum boot manager as you called it is actually a custom bootloader. And if you flash a Windows Mobile ROM be it custom or official through RUU or SD card it is gone. MAGLDR or cLK bootloader run in sesession of the original bootloader meanning you never lose the original boot loader( if you did you would have a bricked phone) and that it is not in the same partition of the NAND memory as the original bootloader. MAGLDR, CLK, AND CWM are in the same partition as the OS, therefore when you flash back to a Win Mo ROM you lose them.
HSPL would not have anything to do with the OP's problem as it is part of the original bootloader and the two main purposes for HSPL is to one beablecto flash a official ROM that is not meant for your HD2 without having to use a gold card, and to disable the CID check so you can flash custom firmware.
At the OP have you had a look at your battery pins to make sure they are all in properly aligned with each other and that one is not bent?
Guys, I'm hoping someone familiar with LiPo battery charging can give me some insight. I've done some diagnostics, and I'd like your take...
- Nexus 7 3G, purchased a few weeks ago. 4.2.1, not rooted, stock charger and cable
- Battery life seems good, fully charges and discharges 'normally'
- I usually charge with the device powered off (ie: blocky battery icon in the middle of the screen).
However....
- On two occasions now, I've left it on the charger for a long time (>15 hours) and have come back to a dead device.
- Pressing the power button doesn't bring up the blocky battery icon.
- Holding the power button for 30+ seconds brings the device back back.
- It has otherwise never failed to boot properly during normal use.
Out of curiosity, I was wondering if there was something wrong with the charging process causing this, so
- I plugged the stock charger into my Kill-A-Watt last night to monitor the charging current.
- Even 8 hours after the device finished charging (via the blocky icon), the current never dropped to zero - it stuck around 10mA on the AC side (ie: ~1.2W).
- My first N7 (sent back for a bad speaker and dead pixels) went to zero after charging. My iPad does the same.
QUESTION(S):
I know modern LiPo batteries have internal circuitry to prevent overcharging, but does it sound like that circuitry might be defective on mine such that I should be worried about overcharging? Could that be the reason for my lockups?
I really don't want to go through the return process again if I don't have to. I'd rather just live with it if I can prevent damage by taking it off the charger when complete. Thoughts? Opinions? Have any of you done this test, and if so, does yours go to zero?
Thanks for any insight!
developer_john said:
However....
- On two occasions now, I've left it on the charger for a long time (>15 hours) and have come back to a dead device.
- Pressing the power button doesn't bring up the blocky battery icon.
- Holding the power button for 30+ seconds brings the device back back.
- It has otherwise never failed to boot properly during normal use.
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That might be a possible cause... Leaving any device plugged in the charger for long periods of time is not recommended. Anyway have you tried charging the tablet with another charger with a higher output? If it refuses to turn on even after holding the power button for 30 seconds you might be able to "wake" it up by using a higher output charger. Thats what I did on my Nexus 7 when the battery level went too low.
cr0wnest said:
That might be a possible cause... Leaving any device plugged in the charger for long periods of time is not recommended. Anyway have you tried charging the tablet with another charger with a higher output? If it refuses to turn on even after holding the power button for 30 seconds you might be able to "wake" it up by using a higher output charger. Thats what I did on my Nexus 7 when the battery level went too low.
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Hmmm...everything I've read has indicated that Lithium Ion/Polymer batteries can be left on a charger without damage since they have internal circuitry to prevent overcharging (although I realize a constant topping off is probably not wise in the long run). As for a charger with a higher output, I thought the stock charger was 2.1A....I've never heard of a 3A or 4A USB charger. Can you clarify what you mean?
Also, as I said, on the two occasions it has locked up, holding the power button has brought it back, so I'm not really asking about how to get it back if it locks up - I'm asking if the behavior (locking up, charge current not dropping to 0) is indicative of a battery that has faulty overcharge protection.
Thanks though!
The "charger" IC inside the N7 not only charges the battery but at the same time powers the device - it should allow use of a N7 with no or a faulty battery. I've never looked at the standby settings on the N7 but I would suggest that is where your 1W is going. The only info about the IC I know is http://www.summitmicro.com/prod_select/summary/SMB347/SMB347.htm
Added I think this is an identical TI version of the chip http://www.ti.com/lit/ds/slusaw5a/slusaw5a.pdf
peterk-1 said:
The "charger" IC inside the N7 not only charges the battery but at the same time powers the device - it should allow use of a N7 with no or a faulty battery. I've never looked at the standby settings on the N7 but I would suggest that is where your 1W is going. The only info about the IC I know is http://www.summitmicro.com/prod_select/summary/SMB347/SMB347.htm
Added I think this is an identical TI version of the chip http://www.ti.com/lit/ds/slusaw5a/slusaw5a.pdf
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Click to collapse
Thanks - that's good info. However, since I have been charging with the device off, it would seem to me that it shouldn't be drawing any standby current...unless just the act of charging puts the unit in a form of standby. It also still doesn't explain why my first unit went to 0A a while after charging completed, while this one doesn't. I'm now wondering if I may be looking at roundoff error. The resolution of the kill-a-watt is .01A - which is what I'm seeing. It could just be that both units drew some current after charge completion, but this one pulls marginally more.
So, my question still stands. Does anyone familiar with LiPo technology know if this sounds like my overcharge protection circuitry is faulty? Is it normal for a device that has completed charging to draw SOME current, and if so, how much? Would someone else with a Kill-A-Watt be willing to try this and let me know what you see?
Thanks again for the help guys...
Just in case anyone is still following this thread, I have some new info. I charged my N7 last night POWERED ON.....and after charging was complete, the AC current draw went to 0A. I'm starting to wonder now whether the 1.2W constant power I saw when charging powered off is the power needed to keep the charging circuitry alive while the tablet is powered off. When the device is powered on, maybe this circuitry is running off the battery allowing the AC draw to go to 0A. I have absolutely nothing to support this, so it's just a guess/hypothesis, but at least I know my N7 is behaving the same as my first one. I also loaded Simple Battery Logger while doing my last charge and all looks normal....it charged up to about 4.208V, indicated 'full', then the voltage start dropping off - which tells me that it stopped charging. It also maintained a temp of about 23C throughout the process. I'm running a battery test right now and it doesn't seem to have been damaged by my overnight charging episodes...if anything, the battery life is better than when I first got it.
I'm going to let it go here and assume all is well. If anyone does any experiments with theirs, I'd be interested in seeing the results.
Thanks again!