Database Users

Krusell Quick Mounter

Hi Guys,
I bought one of these and as "good" as it may seem, just warning you off, or at least giving you notice.
The magnet affects the phone and operates the screen by it's self.
Well, that's a little miss leading. What it does is I think, is tell the phone that you have opened the slide.
So depending on your settings, whenever you attach the phone it will either unlock it, open the dialer, read your sms messages or start pressing the soft keys.
Apart from the ridiculously poor delivery (1st class postage arrive 7 days after shipping. A parcel from US came quicker" ) that I don't know whether to blame on them or Royal Mail, I must of got the one adapter with no bloody adhesive on the back! Industrial sticky tape needed, that's if I decide I can live with the unlocking!
*mods* Really sorry, I didn't notice the "accessories" thread. I only hang out in this one, I've only just noticed it.

Sorry to hear you are not very happy with this, i've had one for a while and i reckon its one of the best i've had. as well as being small and discreet the magnet holds the pda even when driving down dirt tracks and over speed bumps.
The magnet does occasionally set off the quick list but it has already been mentioned on this forum that it is activated by magnet it just depends where you put the adapter

i dont know about you guys but im keeping magnets well away from my device.

kerrance76 said:
The magnet does occasionally set off the quick list but it has already been mentioned on this forum that it is activated by magnet it just depends where you put the adapter
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Do you have a Dual then? Where is your strip to attached the magnet?

After a bit of experimentation, if you place the strip horizontal just underneath the camera (in the center) then the magnet wont set off the phone!
Now I've fixed it with my own tape I'm really happy with it!

i've got mine right in the middle, covering the orange logo, after playi g with it a bit last night it seems to depend a lot on how quickly you move the dual towards the magnet and whether you go staraight towards it or come in from an angle. one thing i havent tried is disabling the quick menu, will give it a go later as i never use it anyway

My HD2 hardware mod- Wireless charing

I used a pixi charging back case (5.99usd) and touchstone charging base (9.99usd) to create this mod. You can find them on clearance at radioshack!
Can be made for other devices: ipods, iphones, bluetooth headset, etc...
Comment plz.
-Carnivore

Maybe some photos and more descriptions?
Im curious how this looks/working.

sure interesting, and most valuable as a proof-of-concept realization, even if I'de never go out with a setup like that

Hey, why do you use this microUSB port?
There's one marvelous thing about our HD2 : the dual-backplate setup
-> Use the golden plated contacts right next to the sim card.
They're used for the "old/weird" special car back-plate in order to make contact via the magnetic holder (aka the "original" car kit)
This way u'll be able to mod a plastic back plate with all the mechanism integrated, you just have to "make" two pins (and understand how the third middle one works) that connects to the HD2 motherboard
Hope that helps But i'm sure our HD2 will be the only one who will survive the wireless charging mod without too much trouble vs unibody etc

Nice
Yeah it looks nice but i don't think anybody is siriously going to use this do you??
Wy doing all this effort for making while you just can plug your charging cable in??
Anyways nice work. Good that people are trying to improve the phones usability.

keesmathot said:
Wy doing all this effort for making while you just can plug your charging cable in??
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
oh I bet he's had a lot of fun doing it That alone is more than enough of a reason

I tried doing something like this a little while back, the connectors next to the sim card can be used for charging which would make the whole thing much nicer and easier, it worked good, but the HD2 metal door blocked the signal so it would not charge, so I used it with a sillicon case on top, it was good but not the best, then I tried to hard wire it inside, opened the HD2, it got few dust specs behind the LCD from opening, I tried blowing them away and the whole screen died, well it was a sad story which eventually ended up on ebay, and I had to get a different one I WILL NOT TRY THIS AGAIN, i hope.

thats good of you to try. hope you find a compatible plastic back for it or some other solution.
ill be looking forward to your progress on this as i have a palm pre and an extra touchstone charger.

RedWave31 said:
Hey, why do you use this microUSB port?
There's one marvelous thing about our HD2 : the dual-backplate setup
-> Use the golden plated contacts right next to the sim card.
They're used for the "old/weird" special car back-plate in order to make contact via the magnetic holder (aka the "original" car kit)
This way u'll be able to mod a plastic back plate with all the mechanism integrated, you just have to "make" two pins (and understand how the third middle one works) that connects to the HD2 motherboard
Hope that helps But i'm sure our HD2 will be the only one who will survive the wireless charging mod without too much trouble vs unibody etc
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The car kit's replacement back is also metal. But I will look into those 3 pins in back. Anyone know what they do exactly?

Carnivore9 said:
The car kit's replacement back is also metal. But I will look into those 3 pins in back. Anyone know what they do exactly?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
they activate the navi-panel and charge your phone at the same time. Do they have the navi-panel for the TMOUS version? I'm not really sure, but yea, if you're able to use the 3 pins inside, then it'll free up your micro usb connector.

lude219 said:
they activate the navi-panel and charge your phone at the same time. Do they have the navi-panel for the TMOUS version? I'm not really sure, but yea, if you're able to use the 3 pins inside, then it'll free up your micro usb connector.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I actually was fooling around with a microusb charging head and found that if you ground one of the data wires, the navpanel will show up. I was a little confused at first since I've never used it before then figured out it was a hidden feature.

[Q] Keyboard Dock latch position

I just got my keyboard dock (finally!) and just started to use it.
When docked, the position of the latch in mine is in the middle, and I can push it to the left to unlock/undock it.
Is this normal, or the position supposed to be all the way in the right when docked?
I tried to push it all the way to the right but I could not.
I also noticed when I simply dock the tablet, it does not go all the way to the bay, there is a bit gap. When its closed (like a laptop lid), the tablet is a bit out (not alliged perfectly to the keyboard). I can push it down though, but it does not happen by itself when docked. I hope that's the case with you all.
I like it so far! Very fast typing!
Just too bad no battery indicator for the keyboard dock (but hope that will change in the next firmware upgrade, I saw it somewhere already the demo with the keyboard dock battery indicator).

Don't be afraid to push it all the way in until it's all the way to the right.
Another way to be sure if it's all the way in, is to close the tablet and see if it's flush with the dock.

just wiggle the tablet back and forth while putting some pressure on it til it clicks all the way. the latch is just finnicky

After using my keybord dock for 2 weeks, I still have hard time docking it.
Everytime I dock it, the latch never goes to the right all the way, it always stays in the middle (see attached pic).
Do you guys have the same issue?
If I tried to push the latch, sometimes I can move it the right, sometimes I cannot.
I believe its supposed to click by itself just like that, when we dock the tablet.
And with the latch position in the middle, actually if I pull the tablet, it will come out, without the need to unlatch it (moving the latch to the left side).
Is mine defected?

Yes mine is same way, always has been, I have to first push it down straight to get it to go halfway, then I sorta push down on the right side a bit more sometimes push the left some more and it then goes all the way to the right. Kinda sux but doesn't worry me.

Mine definitely seems easier after the first time, but will still do the same thing. I'll get the lock to slide to the right half way and then have to sort of wiggle it a bit (pressing down harder on the left and then the right) until it slides all the way to the right. Then it is definitely locked in there good.

darkonex said:
Yes mine is same way, always has been, I have to first push it down straight to get it to go halfway, then I sorta push down on the right side a bit more sometimes push the left some more and it then goes all the way to the right. Kinda sux but doesn't worry me.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Same here

Same here, mine won't go beyond the middle position when the tablet is docked (and yes, it is definitely pushed in all the way).
Obvious, but a tip nonetheless. Hold the switch at the left (open) position while docking, and the tablet slides in far more easily.

I use to have this issue too but I wasnt affraid to push on mine. Put that bad boy on a hard table and push that sucker down till it latches all the way over. After about 4 days of doing this it got better.
Sent from my Transformer TF101 using XDA Premium App

lie_ui said:
I just got my keyboard dock (finally!) and just started to use it.
When docked, the position of the latch in mine is in the middle, and I can push it to the left to unlock/undock it.
Is this normal, or the position supposed to be all the way in the right when docked?
I tried to push it all the way to the right but I could not.
I also noticed when I simply dock the tablet, it does not go all the way to the bay, there is a bit gap. When its closed (like a laptop lid), the tablet is a bit out (not alliged perfectly to the keyboard). I can push it down though, but it does not happen by itself when docked. I hope that's the case with you all.
I like it so far! Very fast typing!
Just too bad no battery indicator for the keyboard dock (but hope that will change in the next firmware upgrade, I saw it somewhere already the demo with the keyboard dock battery indicator).
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Put your palm in the middle of he bottom of the keyboard. Then with your other hand on the top middle of the screen push till it clicks.
If you leave it halfway the keyboard will connect and disconnect often.
Sent from my SPH-D700 using XDA Premium App

I just received my dock (Finally!!!) and I DO NOT have have the same issues as you guys have. I just push it and it clicks in nicely! maybe because I got the 2nd or 3rd batch of hardware? dunno!
Also make sure the latch is all the way to the LEFT before trying to dock the tablet. I noticed the latch can be moved left to right, activating and deactivating the locking mechanism. (I was playing around with it 'undocked' to see how it works)
oh and everything should line up perfectly when docked. if not, 'you are doing it wrong'

[Q] Car Dock - losing call functionality

I recently got the courage to unlock and root, but I feel like a bull in a china closet. I just breaking things and fixing them! I really feel like a dumb animal, but I keep reading and learning. So far, I've been able to fix or reflash until this post.
My issue is my when placing phone into car dock, I can't hear a call afterwards. It doesn't matter if I leave the phone in or take it out, I can call out, but the person I"m calling can't hear me. The only cure is a reboot, in which calling can resume until I enter the car dock.
A little background, I have flashed several ROM's over the past several days and I'm not sure where it started. PacMan, DeadCalm, etc. Now I'm using 4.2 RootBox. During my flashing spree, I did have almost the same issue, but minus the car dock. I think it was with PacMan, after every call I would lose the ability to hear or talk on the next call until a reboot. Again, now is good, except for when I use the car dock.
I also flashed Arrghs, 19 kernel with DeadCalm to fix the known screen proximity issue and borked my phone. I got a bootloop I couldn't get out of and had to use recovery.
Does this make any sense? Before every flash, I'm wiping numerous times. Any help would be appreciated!

I use no-op dock.
As to custom rom that WORK a 100% I can't find any.
My daily driver is a mildly moded Telstra stock rom.
See link below. Go to the OPs Russian site & they have a poll of popular roms. I linked to their site in same thread.

You aren't doing anything wrong as far as the "audio loss" part is concerned when using the car dock. You're using the official Motorola car dock, and the ROM developers for this phone either don't own the dock or have no interest in fixing it (nothing against them, it's extremely proprietary). The audio is just redirected and doesn't come back without a reboot.
The reason the audio is redirected is that Motorola designed it to work with their also proprietary audio/charging cable, which splits a usb charging port and audio jack out so you don't have to plug an aux cable directly into your phone when you want to hear it on your car stereo. Catch is, this never caught on, because they didn't include this splitter cable with most of the docks they sold.
The dock has a chip in it (and a crap ton of small circuitry) that tells the phone not only what dock it's on, but integrates tightly with the smart actions included by default on the phone. The custom roms are made for standard docks, or custom solutions using the resistor value tricks that Samsung is famous for. It's unlikely that we'll see more support for this type of dock system unless the new Moto X uses the EXACT same system.
To bypass this issue for me, I disassembled the car mount and removed the offending circuit board, then soldered on this breakout board (http://www.jayconsystems.com/usb-mini-breakout-board-556.html) and finagled it in there (carefully) using some of that epoxy steel stuff you see in auto parts stores. This simply made the car mount what it already appears to be: a pure pass-through. You cannot get around this issue without either disconnecting the internal circuit, removing the usb jack portion from the mount altogether, or reprogramming the offending part of the ROM you want to use (because I don't think anyone's working on it yet).
Btw, if you spend $10 or more you get free shipping, so why not throw in the OTG cable (among other random things) if you don't have one: http://www.jayconsystems.com/usb-otg-cable-female-a-to-micro-a-5.html

Donowolf said:
You aren't doing anything wrong as far as the "audio loss" part is concerned when using the car dock. You're using the official Motorola car dock, and the ROM developers for this phone either don't own the dock or have no interest in fixing it (nothing against them, it's extremely proprietary). The audio is just redirected and doesn't come back without a reboot.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Wow, good reply. I didn't know about the chip inside of the dock, but it makes sense since when I enter the phone into the dock it automatically goes into Car Mode.
I tried the No-Op app from the Play Store that Avi mentioned (thank you too), but car mode still started when I used the dock and of course I lost audio.
Stinks, I really like the OEM car dock. I'm in sales and rely on the GPS a lot for work. I always put the phone right into the dock as soon as I get into the car which is numerous times throughout a normal day. So no ROM's have working audio with Motorola dock? I guess I get rid of the dock or go back to stock.

perkinscl said:
Wow, good reply. I didn't know about the chip inside of the dock, but it makes sense since when I enter the phone into the dock it automatically goes into Car Mode.
I tried the No-Op app from the Play Store that Avi mentioned (thank you too), but car mode still started when I used the dock and of course I lost audio.
Stinks, I really like the OEM car dock. I'm in sales and rely on the GPS a lot for work. I always put the phone right into the dock as soon as I get into the car which is numerous times throughout a normal day. So no ROM's have working audio with Motorola dock? I guess I get rid of the dock or go back to stock.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have the same problem (obviously). I have not done this yet but was thinking I would set up a Tasker task to reboot the phone as soon as it is disconnected from the dock. This phone reboots so quickly (on PAC at least) that I don't think it should interfere with much. I have just been too lazy to set it up

styndall said:
I have the same problem (obviously). I have not done this yet but was thinking I would set up a Tasker task to reboot the phone as soon as it is disconnected from the dock. This phone reboots so quickly (on PAC at least) that I don't think it should interfere with much. I have just been too lazy to set it up
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I ended up going back to stock (almost - Deodexed 98.16.3 Base) All good so far. I had one hiccup and couldn't hear during a call, but that was only once and everything has been peachy since. Just no cool custom ROM goodies...:victory:

MKV Jetta 2013 Nexus 7 Install - work in progress

Hey everyone. I have been working on an in-dash Nexus 7 install in my 2010 Jetta Wolfsburg, and I thought I would share my progress as I go in case any one else was considering this for their car. I did a similar install with the original Samsung Galaxy Tab in my 1998 BMW 540i which can be seen on bimmerforums if you're interested. Just search E39 Android Tablet Install.
The first think I did was to buy a double din kit from Metra for about $12 from ebay. I took a Dremel to this and modified it by cutting off the center piece as well as all 4 clips on the corners. Then I got some Plastic Weld made by JB weld from Home Depot and started to shape the bezel like I wanted it to be for the Nexus 7. To get this to be flat and mate with the tablet nicely, I had to take a nail file and sandpaper and fill/sand/fill/sand etc until I got it to be as flat as I could. This is what it looked like at first:
{
"lightbox_close": "Close",
"lightbox_next": "Next",
"lightbox_previous": "Previous",
"lightbox_error": "The requested content cannot be loaded. Please try again later.",
"lightbox_start_slideshow": "Start slideshow",
"lightbox_stop_slideshow": "Stop slideshow",
"lightbox_full_screen": "Full screen",
"lightbox_thumbnails": "Thumbnails",
"lightbox_download": "Download",
"lightbox_share": "Share",
"lightbox_zoom": "Zoom",
"lightbox_new_window": "New window",
"lightbox_toggle_sidebar": "Toggle sidebar"
}
I then added more to the bottom molding to give the tablet some support from the sides as well. I think this will help in keeping it stable. These are depicted by the yellow arrows. The filing/sanding I was talking about was referring to the red lines in the pictures. I am trying to get these surfaces to be as flat as possible so that the tablet will mate closely with the bezel.
I plasti-dipped the bezel, which FYI matches remarkably well with the interior plastic. Then I attached elastic bands traversing each other diagonally to hold the tablet to the bezel. In addition, I attached magnets around the bezel, which can be seen as the black circles around the edge. I will explain why I did this in more detail as I continue with the install. I also started messing around with the tablet to make it how I would want it in the car. I am using the 2013 Nexus 7 running Paranoid Android so that I can customize every app individually. I put the buttons on the side and made them red to match the interior. One thing that I am happy about is that the way that I chopped up the bezel, I left the camera, light sensor, and notification light open to be used. This way I could even do video calls (granted I will be looking at the road) which might be pretty cool. Here are some more pictures:
I then removed the stock headunit.
This gave me more room to work. I bought a CR2-VW2 harness by PAC from one of the VW forum members. This harness allowed me to connect an aftermarket headunit and retain the stock audio system (amp, speakers etc) but did not include steering wheel controls, which I did not need anyway. I chose the Alpine UTE-42BT for a few reasons. First, it is only $88 which is very reasonable. Secondly, it doesn't have a CD player which is good since that feature would never be used anyway. It has a front auxiliary port and bluetooth handsfree built in, which will allow me to use handsfree from the tablet. I will explain the intricacies of this in a more detailed write up when the project is completely done. As of right now, this is how it is looking:
Pardon the mess, the project is ongoing =) As of right now, the tablet is running on battery, but I am planning on setting it up so that it receives power when the car starts, thus turning on the screen, and when the power shuts off, the screen timeout of 7 seconds will kick in. I'm realizing that 16GB is not a lot of space for something I want to keep music on, so I recently bought a USB OTG cable to mount external storage and I'm waiting for that to arrive. Does anyone have experience with using USB OTG that could provide some insight into this? Will Google Music pick up on the media on the USB storage and add it automatically if I use Stickmount or something like that? I'm going to see how that works out before I decide I need to buy a 32GB Nexus 7 instead. To charge it (if USB OTG works, meaning that the micro USB port will be taken), I will get a wireless charger and plug that into the cigarette lighter for power. If USB OTG doesn't work, I will power it directly using micro USB. One thing I would recommend to anyone trying this is to pick up a ground loop isolator, since charger and using auxiliary at one can lead to some interference. There should be more to come over the next week as I get some more of these peripheral supplies. It sounds great though, and the functionality is far superior to the stock headunit.

Very amazing. I've a plan to put a tablet of some sort in one of my cars! you beat me to it long ago seems like! I wanted to connect my rasberry pi to some sort of 7inch touchscreen!
but this is wayyy nicer.
PROPS!

Reminds me of Statham's Audi from Transporter. Looks pretty futuristic.

Kookas said:
Reminds me of Statham's Audi from Transporter. Looks pretty futuristic.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
My friend just got the statham harcut

Awesome work samboner, keep us updated on your progress!

7786 said:
Awesome work samboner, keep us updated on your progress!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Dude, leave me alone! Unless you're here to answer my USB OTG questions. Otherwise, back to leaving me alone Olley.

Looks good, but otg and charging will not happen unless a kernel supports it.
They got it working on the 2012 n7 so most likely will happen
Sent from my Nexus 7 using Tapatalk 4

BrianDigital said:
Looks good, but otg and charging will not happen unless a kernel supports it.
They got it working on the 2012 n7 so most likely will happen
Sent from my Nexus 7 using Tapatalk 4
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I can confirm this for wireless charging and USB OTG. On mine the wireless charging cuts off when the OTG cable is plugged in.

7786 said:
Awesome work samboner, keep us updated on your progress!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
BrianDigital said:
Looks good, but otg and charging will not happen unless a kernel supports it.
They got it working on the 2012 n7 so most likely will happen
Sent from my Nexus 7 using Tapatalk 4
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
PMentior said:
I can confirm this for wireless charging and USB OTG. On mine the wireless charging cuts off when the OTG cable is plugged in.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Oh shoot, you can't do wireless charging and USB OTG at the same time? That is going to be a major problem for me. Well I'm glad I didn't buy a wireless charger yet. The USB OTG is working out like a charm, but I definitely need to have a long term charging solution. I don't want to have to take it in and out. Do any of you know if anyone is working on a kernel that allows USB OTG and wireless charging simultaneously?

faruqster said:
Oh shoot, you can't do wireless charging and USB OTG at the same time? That is going to be a major problem for me. Well I'm glad I didn't buy a wireless charger yet. The USB OTG is working out like a charm, but I definitely need to have a long term charging solution. I don't want to have to take it in and out. Do any of you know if anyone is working on a kernel that allows USB OTG and wireless charging simultaneously?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Could you somehow use Bluetooth instead of OTG?

Options!
I made a steering wheel interface for Androids, n7 primarily.
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=2206156
For one, I can tell you that you can Charge and use USB OTG if you install the right kernel.
read here too
http://forum.xda-developers.com/show....php?t=2113259
I haven't tried the pogo pins and USB OTG together, that might work. Otherwise there are a few options.
(to be clear, the best option would be a kernel that allows USB OTG and charging, at the same time. )
:good: First, probably best, Buy an adjustable regulator like this : http://www.seeedstudio.com/depot/adjustable-dcdc-power-converter-125v-35v3a-p-1534.html and adjust it to 3.9Volts (lipo used in tablet works between 3.7v and 4.2v) , use the always on BATT 12v input. Then remove the back cover of the N7, remove the battery, and power it directly from the car. http://www.ifixit.com/Teardown/Nexus+7+Teardown/9623/1 It looks like the black, yellow and red wires would be Ground, Vcharge and Vout, but you'd need to verify. You'd probably have to cut the wire. You might want to order a replacement on Ebay to use. You can then use tap to wake to turn the screen on or a USB micro setup like the one I made to tell the tablet to turn on/off with the key (act as if a keyboard was plugged in and you hit the power key).
Second, and most tricky. USB OTG uses pin 5 as the sense pin for Host/Client. IF you don't intend to use Host mode all of the time, like just when pressing a steering wheel button, you could use a Microcontroller to trigger the mode.
Third, Would be to charge when the car is off, and USB host when the car is on. Again this comes down to using pin5, or if you follow Kuchar09's post he has a wire diagram for this.
---------- Post added at 01:37 PM ---------- Previous post was at 01:14 PM ----------
Sorry, I just realized yours is a 2013 version. Same deal, not sure about the kernel, but someone will make one. Also not sure about the touch control, it needs kernel modules to work, so again compatible kernel.
BUT my first option, still the best work around.
Here is the tear down http://www.ifixit.com/Teardown/Nexus+7+2nd+Generation+Teardown/16072/1 and you can see the battery still uses wires. you'll need to test what they are. Powering the tablet with a regulator in place of the battery would be ideal.

...

http://www.seagate.com/external-hard-drives/portable-hard-drives/wireless/seagate-satellite/
That would solve the problem.

fzelle said:
http://www.seagate.com/external-hard-drives/portable-hard-drives/wireless/seagate-satellite/
That would solve the problem.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yeah, my first thought was a wifi HDD as well. Just give it power and put it somewhere out of the way. personally, I'd wire it and put it in/under the glove box for easy media adding/removal.

I've done this in several vehicles so far.
What are you doing about heat in a parked car in the sun? At 90 outside, in my sons car ( lighter colored cloth interior ) it's approx 110-115 in the car. In my 350z with black leather, it's over 120 inside.... With the hookup you have going, making that a removable mount would be pretty easy with a pair of nice magnets to snap that entire enclosure and tab into place. Makes it nice when you have to leave the car in the sun for any amount of time, or to work on it, etc.... I've seen 1 screen physically crack, and a 2nd device just flat out die. Something to keep in mind depending on where you live.
As far as the power issues.... I use tasker. When the power is cut to the device, I force it into deep sleep and airplane mode. It will go for 2 weeks+ sitting there idle without dying. When the power is fired up, wake up ( no lock screen ), and set the screen to full bright and no timeout. No need to hack the device. A kernel for this would be great like the orig N7 had, but until we get one, this will work too.
Also, don't go BT to a head unit IF you care about the sound quality ( compressed audio sucks and if you have a good system, you'll hear the difference ). Go with a DAC ( from 30 to 300 bucks depending on what you get ). The sound quality will be much better then using the compressed BT crapola. Or even go out via the head phones, it's still much better then BT.
Just some things I've come across doing this for a few years now with various devices.
Oh yea.. and put an anti glare screen protector on it. Play with them to find the right one, or your screen will be invisible when you have glasses on. IPads do the exact same thing. Once you go into landscape mode, black screen ( put on your shades and just turn it, you'll see.... it sucks )..

fzelle said:
http://www.seagate.com/external-hard-drives/portable-hard-drives/wireless/seagate-satellite/
That would solve the problem.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Coronado is dead said:
Yeah, my first thought was a wifi HDD as well. Just give it power and put it somewhere out of the way. personally, I'd wire it and put it in/under the glove box for easy media adding/removal.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
How exactly do these wifi hard drives work? Can I connect to a wifi hotspot while using one of these? How exactly is the storage mounted? Do you have to use a file explorer to access the files, or will Google Music be able to find the media automatically? ie media scanner
rkennison said:
I've done this in several vehicles so far.
What are you doing about heat in a parked car in the sun? At 90 outside, in my sons car ( lighter colored cloth interior ) it's approx 110-115 in the car. In my 350z with black leather, it's over 120 inside.... With the hookup you have going, making that a removable mount would be pretty easy with a pair of nice magnets to snap that entire enclosure and tab into place. Makes it nice when you have to leave the car in the sun for any amount of time, or to work on it, etc.... I've seen 1 screen physically crack, and a 2nd device just flat out die. Something to keep in mind depending on where you live.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Good advice. Yeah, that's the plan with the magnets I built into the bezel. I am going to put some metal/magnets in the cavity where the tablet will go and I'll use those to put the tablet/bezel combination in and out.
rkennison said:
IAs far as the power issues.... I use tasker. When the power is cut to the device, I force it into deep sleep and airplane mode. It will go for 2 weeks+ sitting there idle without dying. When the power is fired up, wake up ( no lock screen ), and set the screen to full bright and no timeout. No need to hack the device. A kernel for this would be great like the orig N7 had, but until we get one, this will work too.
Also, don't go BT to a head unit IF you care about the sound quality ( compressed audio sucks and if you have a good system, you'll hear the difference ). Go with a DAC ( from 30 to 300 bucks depending on what you get ). The sound quality will be much better then using the compressed BT crapola. Or even go out via the head phones, it's still much better then BT.
Just some things I've come across doing this for a few years now with various devices.
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I was thinking about rolling on battery alone, but I thought it would be nice to run it from a charger. I'm realizing that there physically isn't room to use the micro USB port, so I think I will use a wireless charger. I figured I would use Tasker to turn the timeout off, turn on the wifi and bluetooth, and other stuff like that with power, and reverse it when the power drops out. I am planning to use the auxiliary output for now.
rkennison said:
IOh yea.. and put an anti glare screen protector on it. Play with them to find the right one, or your screen will be invisible when you have glasses on. IPads do the exact same thing. Once you go into landscape mode, black screen ( put on your shades and just turn it, you'll see.... it sucks )..
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That is definitely something to think about. Are there any brands you would recommend or have experience with?

You could also mount a 120mm fan behind it for when it's hot. Heck, I bet the fan could run while the car is off and draw next to nothing from the battery. You would only need to run the fan at a few hundred rpm as well.

Fiio makes some pretty good ones without breaking the wallet. You can bypass the charging issues by just going headphone jack into the DAC, then into your headunit via an aux port (3.5 or RCA, they make DACs for each). You can go with a USB DAC as well, but I think there are driver requirements and crap to deal with on top of the power issues when hooking up via the N7s usb port. Just sounds messy so I've not tried it that way.
I pulled the HU from my son's completely and go from DAC right into the amp ( well into a crossover first so I can pull the sub frequencies into a separate amp as well ).
I kept my HU in. I just like having the 2 7" screens on the dash so I can still have full nav on the HU and music on the N7.
Oh and I just checked, the spigen ultra crystal screen protectors will cure the landscape sunglass issue. I'm sure others will as well, but I can verify these.

The hdd's create a hotspot the tablet would connect to. I don't know how the tablet would react as far as scanning media. You could soft link the files from the hard drive to the tablet if it doesn't just recognize cans play them. The Seagate is dlna compatible so it should be easy to play from.
A small fan would be easy enought to cool the tablet, you could even have a temp sensor on it, think attic fan, that would just come on automatically. Also of you follow my suggestion and remove the battery, and power it right from the car, the back cover would be off so cooling would be easier.
I run my system phone to Bluetooth (Sony sbh20) straight to my amps, it sounds great. All this bs about USB DAC's is mostly BS. The tablet has a DAC inside its what is converting the 1's and 0's to music. Yeah it might not be the best DAC on the market but I don't think its the source of bad sound quality on most any unit.
I personally am not a fan of hiding a deck just for the amp inside of it. This basically makes zero sense. However many new factory sound systems have the head unit specially eq'd to make the crappy speakers sound good. You might have to get new speakers to make a direct tablet -> amp -> speaker method sound good.
I did car audio for 10yrs I know a bit about it.
Sent from my Nexus 4 using Tapatalk 4

That is beautiful! I want to do that so bad but I change tablets too much. So here's my option, bluetooth and all.
2013 N7 Kang Banged!