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I have to rave on this stereo BT head set. I have been tying to find one that I like for quite some time really exercising the 30 day return policies. I wanted somthing that had the best of both worlds, regular mono ear piece and an atachable ear bud for the stereo and this one has deffinatly got it right. Best sound yet, best fit and good looking. I was very impresed I think this one is a keeper, oh one down fall the price but still under $120.
I have one since december. It is (was) great, but...
The concept is great. The size too. The sound is OK to good with both earplugs. Problems are:
- the connection of the second earplug with the main one (the one with the battery) is very, very sensitive. After two months of use, it became so loose that I lost contact and couldn't use the stereo anymore. They should have made it like a "screw" plug or even an small USB plug, or RCA plug. The way it is, two small metal plates on the setero plug that have to "touch" another two small metal plates in the main plug is too sensitive and unreliable for real usage.
- two weeks ago, the place where you connected the stereo plug and which now I was using to plug the ear hook broke...
- Now I'm using it just with the earbud... only six months.
Again, great concept, and bad implemantation. I even thought about buying another one and use it more gently, but I guess that's unrealistic. I believe I should be able to put the headphone in my pocket or bag without worring too much.
duplicate, sorry.
southsideservz said:
I have to rave on this stereo BT head set. I have been tying to find one that I like for quite some time really exercising the 30 day return policies. I wanted somthing that had the best of both worlds, regular mono ear piece and an atachable ear bud for the stereo and this one has deffinatly got it right. Best sound yet, best fit and good looking. I was very impresed I think this one is a keeper, oh one down fall the price but still under $120.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I found and bought mine (Voyager 855) after searching on the internet...plain white box, plenty of replacement pieces, for onlyl.... ready for this....
$46.00.
The only issue I ever had was making sure it was connected when I needed it, installing A2DPToggle solved that issue, and all is now right with the world.
MBN
PS: got mine at cellphoneshop.net/855.html and have had several coworkers order from them and all has worked out well. Unfortunately, they've been out of stock for about a month now
MustBNuts said:
I found and bought mine (Voyager 855) after searching on the internet...plain white box, plenty of replacement pieces, for onlyl.... ready for this....
$46.00.
The only issue I ever had was making sure it was connected when I needed it, installing A2DPToggle solved that issue, and all is now right with the world.
MBN
PS: got mine at cellphoneshop.net/855.html and have had several coworkers order from them and all has worked out well. Unfortunately, they've been out of stock for about a month now
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
How did A2DPToggle solve what? Mine stays connected most of the time.
SouthSideSvz,
before I installed the toggle, for unknown reasons the connection would drop and I found reconnecting a pain....
A caveat, though, this was happening when I first got the phone and the earpiece....haven't had any problems since then. But I have heard that the BT can drain the battery, so with the toggle I can shut down BT on the phone side too.
How much of it is a crutch, who knows... but I like it!
MBN
MustBNuts said:
SouthSideSvz,
before I installed the toggle, for unknown reasons the connection would drop and I found reconnecting a pain....
A caveat, though, this was happening when I first got the phone and the earpiece....haven't had any problems since then. But I have heard that the BT can drain the battery, so with the toggle I can shut down BT on the phone side too.
How much of it is a crutch, who knows... but I like it!
MBN
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I just bought this same headset, and have also experienced it dropping connection and being hard to get reconnected. I thought maybe I was doing something wrong. At this point, do you think the toggle app is actually helping the problem?
I'm wondering if it's not just the simple fact that you turn bluetooth off and on, so it sort of resets itself, rather than anything this program does differently. However, I'm more than willing to give it a try!
I have one since about 6 months ago. A friend of mine that works at Plantronics Mexico gave it to me as a present and to test it out.
Honestly it's been a great product, it even survived a trip to the washer machine and it's still ticking!
The only problem I see with this particular set is that the connector on the loop is really flimsy (I'm on my second loop) so you'd better be careful and never let it plugged in while you store it on your pants or backpack, it breaks really easy (maybe it's just because my unit it's a pre-production set) but be careful nevertheless.
The sound is really bassy and loud for such small speakers it has very nice sound range.
The battery lasts for a few days of moderate use on stereo and a few weeks moderate use on mono.
One thing I like about it (which many will find disturbing) is that it isolates all sound from the exterior, so be careful while driving or things like that.
I give a 8.5/10 to this product.
I liked mine as much as you did, but then it didn't last long enough as I explained above.
I do believe they can change the implementation and keep all its good qualities that are many (let's be honest, there is not one other set that is as discreet/small and less cumbersome than this). I would know how to do it, so they just have to be willing to do so, I guess.
Perhaps you can pass my ideas to your friend. I would share them for free...
mbernstein said:
I liked mine as much as you did, but then it didn't last long enough as I explained above.
I do believe they can change the implementation and keep all its good qualities that are many (let's be honest, there is not one other set that is as discreet/small and less cumbersome than this). I would know how to do it, so they just have to be willing to do so, I guess.
Perhaps you can pass my ideas to your friend. I would share them for free...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I will pass the info to my friend ASAP. However as far as I know, the Bluetooth Division was recently moved to China...
I remember my pal told me beforehand that this particular model has some (undisclosed) issues (well he mentioned battery not lasting long enough). Same with a newer mono model called Diamond or something like that.
Hey, these are just user's ideas. I'm not talking about engineering stuff.
They seem to be simple things (though you never know) like:
- connection of the stereo earbud: the way it is, it is just two metal plates touching each other. Very easy for things to get loose and lose contact. Happened with me. They either should use a RCA type plug or USB type plug (most likely).
- Also the stereo connection is also used to help support the headset on our ears. Fact is the headset weight is put on...THE STEREO CONTACTS, helping them get loose. So, Ear hook should be separated from connection to relieve it from weight stress.
- they could position the stereo connection where presently is the charger, and perhaps (if possible) make the connection be dual function like the Kaiser, where you can use the mini-USB both to charge and to connect headphone.
My two cents. Seems feasible.
Got my voyager 855 and it's sounds muffled on one earbud (the one with buttons). Using Tilt with one of the hybrid Dutty roms. The one you piggyback to main unit sounds much louder and very clear. Tested also without putting them in ear and with eargels off, switched ears. Anything I can try before requesting a replacement?
Thanks!
I just ripped some magnets out of an old hard drive and want to use them to make a car dock from a DIY I saw (http://forum.androidcentral.com/evo...completely-invisible-phone-vehicle-mount.html)
I am worried about putting a magnet on phone as it always been common sense that magnets + electronics = broken ****. Though, isn't it magnets in the commercial car docks that trigger car mode to pop up on the phone?
small magnets will not hurt - many phones have magnets as sensors - the blackberry determines holstered or not via a magnet in the holster. Other Moto phones determined if they are docked or not via magnets in the dock.
But, any magnet strong enough to keep the phone from bouncing loose could cause interference issues. I don't think you can do any permanent damage, but if things start acting wonky, it may be the magnet.
ok I ran a magnet over, stuck on a few points but car mode never came up. Know the right location/method?
be very careful of the speakers. I have a friend who tried to do the same thing and his speaker sounded really bad after that
riotburn said:
ok I ran a magnet over, stuck on a few points but car mode never came up. Know the right location/method?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
As far as I've read, magnets trigger no dock on the Atrix.
It's thought to be resistances on the USB connectors that trigger different docks to come up.
Worst case scenario is that you create a shortcut on one of your homescreens that manually opens the car dock interface, which is extremely easy to do.
Speaker is ok. Plus I still have warranty and what not, thought id actually take some kind of risk considering all the hard work devs do.
So, FOR ME, rubbing the magnet over the back of the phone did not cause any noticeable harm yet. The magnet would center about an inch above the speakerphone speaker in the center.
SG Pillar said:
As far as I've read, magnets trigger no dock on the Atrix.
It's thought to be resistances on the USB connectors that trigger different docks to come up.
Worst case scenario is that you create a shortcut on one of your homescreens that manually opens the car dock interface, which is extremely easy to do.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hmmmm, saw that for the multimedia dock. I dont see where to find the car dock program. I looked in apps and dont see it. Is it accessed from somewhere else?
riotburn said:
Hmmmm, saw that for the multimedia dock. I dont see where to find the car dock program. I looked in apps and dont see it. Is it accessed from somewhere else?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I don't have my phone on me at the moment (managed to forget it along with some other stuff as I left my house for class this morning).
I think its something like (this is with Launcher Pro):
Long press home
Create custom shortcut
Activities
Select Car Dock -> Cardock.main.cardockmainactivity
Name shortcut
If that doesn't work, I'll try it when I get home tonight.
SG Pillar said:
I don't have my phone on me at the moment (managed to forget it along with some other stuff as I left my house for class this morning).
I think its something like (this is with Launcher Pro):
Long press home
Create custom shortcut
Activities
Select Car Dock -> Cardock.main.cardockmainactivity
Name shortcut
If that doesn't work, I'll try it when I get home tonight.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I tried it myself and it works great, thanks.
Yup that works great. Thanks! Now to figure out how it turns on when put in a dock.
Wait so for the mount to work, you would have to setup the charger? that blows, the magnet turning on the phone is better.
riotburn said:
Yup that works great. Thanks! Now to figure out how it turns on when put in a dock.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
well, you would press the shortcut
What's really weird to me is that the other day Cardock was showing up in my app list all the time, now it has disappeared and I have to add it the way you listed above. What caused it to disappear?
natious said:
well, you would press the shortcut
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I meant figure out how putting the phone in the car dock makes the phone turn on. I understood pushing the button would start dock mode
The old flip phones (StarTac) would typically use a magnet to sense if they were open/closed. AFAIK there's nothing in the new phones that understands magnetism at all, much less is harmed by it.
The microUSB standard provides for "sensing" by means of placing a fixed resistance across the new fifth wire. Devices see a set resistance, look it up internally, and determine what device has been attached. I suspect Moto is using this sensing to signal what dock a phone is plugged into--all part of a standard.
FWIW, cell phones going back at least to the original Palm Treos have done something similar, they look at the impedance of whatever is plugged into the ear/mic socket, and then configure themselves for earbuds, mono ear/mic, and other different devices all plugged into the same socket. This is mature and invisible technology by now.
Just opened my atrix lapdock for the first time in a while to try it out and had a bunch of weird things happen that i havent seen listed eleswhere. Just wanted to know if anyone else seen something like this.
First, i'm running the latest Carbon nightly on my Razr HD.
Things that happened:
1) I plugged in the HDMI/USB and the phone mirrored onto the screen, however the mouse/keyboard didn't work and it wasn't charging the phone.
2) I removed the phone, checked the jacks and plugged it back in again. This time, the lapdock's backlight turned on, but nothing showed up on the screen. I ran an lsusb and it does show a device there (when i remove the usb it doesn't list anything).
I can't seem to get the phone to mirror again though. I've since rebooted the phone and tried a few other things, but i can't seem to replicate #1.
Anyone have a similar experience?
djuniah said:
Just opened my atrix lapdock for the first time in a while to try it out and had a bunch of weird things happen that i havent seen listed eleswhere. Just wanted to know if anyone else seen something like this.
First, i'm running the latest Carbon nightly on my Razr HD.
Things that happened:
1) I plugged in the HDMI/USB and the phone mirrored onto the screen, however the mouse/keyboard didn't work and it wasn't charging the phone.
2) I removed the phone, checked the jacks and plugged it back in again. This time, the lapdock's backlight turned on, but nothing showed up on the screen. I ran an lsusb and it does show a device there (when i remove the usb it doesn't list anything).
I can't seem to get the phone to mirror again though. I've since rebooted the phone and tried a few other things, but i can't seem to replicate #1.
Anyone have a similar experience?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That's pretty much normal on custom JB roms. You can get the phone to output to the Lapdock in a bastardized 1080p if you go to dev settings and disable hdcp -- there's a bug in the custom kernel regarding both obtaining the lapdock's EDID as well as the phone always trying to initiate the hdcp handshake even though it's really a dvi monitor with an hdmi>dvi adapter. With HDCP disabled, the phone will force output to 1080p, only the monitor is 1366x768, and due to the buggy EDID, none of FB1's (framebuffer 1...hdmi output) settings are tweakable...mainly the resolution setting like we have to use in Stock Moto JB. Sucks knowing the bug and not knowing how to fix it.
Good news is the Lapdock is reported to work just fine with Stock KitKat. Once the dev team is ready and start releasing CM11 with the 3.4 kernel, we'll finally be able to use the Lapdock with custom KK roms like we did with stock ICS.
skeevydude said:
That's pretty much normal on custom JB roms. You can get the phone to output to the Lapdock in a bastardized 1080p if you go to dev settings and disable hdcp -- there's a bug in the custom kernel regarding both obtaining the lapdock's EDID as well as the phone always trying to initiate the hdcp handshake even though it's really a dvi monitor with an hdmi>dvi adapter. With HDCP disabled, the phone will force output to 1080p, only the monitor is 1366x768, and due to the buggy EDID, none of FB1's (framebuffer 1...hdmi output) settings are tweakable...mainly the resolution setting like we have to use in Stock Moto JB. Sucks knowing the bug and not knowing how to fix it.
Good news is the Lapdock is reported to work just fine with Stock KitKat. Once the dev team is ready and start releasing CM11 with the 3.4 kernel, we'll finally be able to use the Lapdock with custom KK roms like we did with stock ICS.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I actually had HDCP disabled during all of those cases i mentioned. I was doing some testing on laggy playback of protected video streams via HDMI (Netflix/Xfinitity/etc. had been lagging the video stream and getting out of sync recently) and had disabled it to see if it would help. The other odd part is that now i can't even see the hub via lsusb. When i plug the phone in, the little white LED on the trackpad lights up, so it definitely sees a connection, however lsusb shows 0 results on the device. I'm wondering if maybe the small cables that go through the hinge got damaged somehow while i was messing around with it last night.
djuniah said:
I actually had HDCP disabled during all of those cases i mentioned. I was doing some testing on laggy playback of protected video streams via HDMI (Netflix/Xfinitity/etc. had been lagging the video stream and getting out of sync recently) and had disabled it to see if it would help. The other odd part is that now i can't even see the hub via lsusb. When i plug the phone in, the little white LED on the trackpad lights up, so it definitely sees a connection, however lsusb shows 0 results on the device. I'm wondering if maybe the small cables that go through the hinge got damaged somehow while i was messing around with it last night.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
What kind of Lapdock? I have the 500 and it's unable to work in the proper resolution on custom roms since around June of last year (when Epinter's hdcp/hdmi commits started showing up in the cm kernel). When it did work, did it work with the correct resolution? Because it's in a forced 1080p with no way of changing it on the Atrix HD & any custom rom (and only then when HDCP is disabled).
The hinge cables...that would suck if that's what happened. I could see that being a difficult fix to do, though I've never taken my Lapdock apart to know if it's actually that difficult.
skeevydude said:
What kind of Lapdock? I have the 500 and it's unable to work in the proper resolution on custom roms since around June of last year (when Epinter's hdcp/hdmi commits started showing up in the cm kernel). When it did work, did it work with the correct resolution? Because it's in a forced 1080p with no way of changing it on the Atrix HD & any custom rom (and only then when HDCP is disabled).
The hinge cables...that would suck if that's what happened. I could see that being a difficult fix to do, though I've never taken my Lapdock apart to know if it's actually that difficult.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It's the atrix lapdock (which i believe is a different model from the 500 or 100). I had picked it up cheap for my old OG Razr and i know that it did work previously. The resolution was actually correct though. It showed up full-screen without the black bars, which was quite surprising given what i've read elsewhere. There are quite a few exposed screws on the bottom of the unit, so if i HAD to go in there and replace the cable that runs from the hub to the dock, i think i could, but i've only opened up the back-dock section to flip the jacks around to fit the HD.
djuniah said:
It's the atrix lapdock (which i believe is a different model from the 500 or 100). I had picked it up cheap for my old OG Razr and i know that it did work previously. The resolution was actually correct though. It showed up full-screen without the black bars, which was quite surprising given what i've read elsewhere. There are quite a few exposed screws on the bottom of the unit, so if i HAD to go in there and replace the cable that runs from the hub to the dock, i think i could, but i've only opened up the back-dock section to flip the jacks around to fit the HD.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Odd, especially since they all run at the same 1366x768 resolution, but it could simply be a case of the phone registering the incorrect EDID from the 100 and/or 500.
There isn't a single exposed screw on the 500 without removing all the rubber feet and rubber screw blocks.
Thursday needs to hurry on up and get here. It's when my replacement Atrix HD will arrive. No phone sucks.
Hello all, I am new to this forum. I brought my thread over here because on the forums I post on normally for my car they seem to have 0 interest in the subject. My goal is to receive help from you guys, as well as maybe help any of you out! So to start off with a little history of the car. The car is a 2004 Mustang with non-mach stereo. I Currently have a single din radio and 2 amps (1 for door speakers, other for 2 12" subs), and all upgraded speakers and wiring. I have always wanted a touch screen radio and navigation, so that i did not have to use my phone the whole time while driving. I was looking into pioneers and alpine double dins, but for the features i wanted i couldn't justify spending 1200 bucks. So that left me at the same place i started at. I started browsing tablet installs when i discovered one of the guys i follow on instagram put a Ipad Mini into his dash. This really got me thinking about what i could do, so after about 6 months of juggling the idea, and doing some heavy research about which tablet to use and which Roms were best for in-car installation i found the Nexus 7. And that Triggered this build, which i will regularly update as the build goes on.
So to start off this is the list of stuff that i will need or have acquired, acquired is marked with blue, and will also have the price and total at the end. Items that have unknown prices are ones that i have not decided what to get or cant find what i want.
Need/Have:
- Nexus 7 2013 (32gb) (115.00 - Staples)
- Timurs Rom (28.94 - Donation)
- Clarion EQS746 (54.49 - Amazon)
- Behringer UCA202 USB DAC (29.99 - Amazon)
- 2X DC-DC Converter Module 12V To 5V 3A 15W Double USB Output Power Adapter (11.99 Ebay)
- USB Hub - Powered (unknown)
- Back-Up Camera (16.87 - Ebay)
- Easy Cap (Unknown)
- FM transmitter (Unknown)
- PlexiGlass (21.99 - Lowes)
- RCA Cables (6.99 - Radioshack)
- Right Angle OTG Cable Adapter (4.99 - Amazon)
- OTG Cable with Power (3.99 - Amazon)
- Micro USB to USB (6.98 - Amazon) Need this to connect the right angle to the OTG cable
- Metra 95-5026 Double DIN Installation Kit (9.29 - Amazon) Need this for parts of the mounting method
- Metra 70-5520 Wiring Harness (4.49 - Amazon) This is to connect power
- Hard Snap on Case (4.29 - Amazon) Part of Mounting Method
Total Price: $320.20
This list is for stuff previous to nexus 7 install/as well as some apps for in dash installation:
Hifonics Hfi1000.1d (129.99 - Amazon)
Hifonics ZRX600.4 (93.00 - Amazon)
LI12D4 - Incriminator Audio 12" x 2 (508.00 - Amazon)
Beautiful Widgets Pro (3.63 - Play Store)
Tasker (2.99 - Play Store)
Nova Launcher Prime (4.00 - Play Store)
GMD Auto Hide Pro (2.49 - Play Store)
Total Price: $744.10 - Most of this is tied up up in speakers/amps.
I chose Timurs rom because of the dedicated support forums, and the amount of followers behind the build, This rom allows for fixed installation, which is most likely what ill be doing. It enables OTG so i can hook up a USB hub to it, and have access to back up camera, music storage, and also play audio through the DAC.
As far as mounting method for the tablet will be doing away with the radio completely and putting the tablet in its place like so (Imagine it behind the bezel lol)
{
"lightbox_close": "Close",
"lightbox_next": "Next",
"lightbox_previous": "Previous",
"lightbox_error": "The requested content cannot be loaded. Please try again later.",
"lightbox_start_slideshow": "Start slideshow",
"lightbox_stop_slideshow": "Stop slideshow",
"lightbox_full_screen": "Full screen",
"lightbox_thumbnails": "Thumbnails",
"lightbox_download": "Download",
"lightbox_share": "Share",
"lightbox_zoom": "Zoom",
"lightbox_new_window": "New window",
"lightbox_toggle_sidebar": "Toggle sidebar"
}
For mounting I stumbled upon different ways that people have accomplished and didnt like any of them, most of them stayed out of the bezel, and the ones that were in the bezel were fixed and was not easy to remove.... then i found this build, i loved the idea of having it fixed, but then again easily removable if need be!
Subaru In-Car Install - Mounting
So that is when i started to build this!
It is pretty messy looking right now, but i will be painting it black so that it will blend with the case, and look like it is meant to be their.
I have a bunch of parts coming in the mail this week, that is the only thing that is holding up the In-Car process of the build.
I had a bunch of free time yesterday so i decided to start working on the UI for the tablet. I found a build that someone had done in a BMW that i really liked, and they even posted their PSD file for it. I began Chopping it to meet my own personal needs and build, and came up with this!
On the Tablet side, i just used it as a background and created invisible widgets that were placed onto the "Icon" and directly linked to the corresponding app. After i got all of that worked out, and added some widgets to the screen and removed the navigation bad i decided to work with tasker a little bit. I wanted the device to stimulate when power is off to key, and when power is on to key. So i created two different profiles and added task to each, they are as follows.
Power ON:
Airplane Mode - Disabled
Display Timeout - 23hrs
Display Brightness - 158
Popup - Welcome Back
Media Volume - Level 14 of 15
Bluetooth - ON
GPS - On
Wifi - On
Auto Sync - On
Power OFF:
Popup - Booting into Low Power Mode
Display Timeout - 15s
Wait 10s
Bluetooth - Off
Auto-Sync - Off
Wifi - Off
Music - Stop
Airplane Mode - On
TaskKill - Chrome/Maps/Pandora/Spotify/PowerAmp
Go Home
Some Video Action
I will update this regularly, if you have any questions comments or anything else please post below in fact i encourage it!
Also i am looking for ideas to install a Female input AUX into my Center Console for a factory look into the EQ, anyone know how?
Looks good!
In regards to your female aux issue, has your main head unit got more than one aux input? If so there is your answer. If not I know turtle beach used to supply a female 3.5 to 2ph piggy back which would do it just make sure the tablet is muted first.
ratykat said:
Looks good!
In regards to your female aux issue, has your main head unit got more than one aux input? If so there is your answer. If not I know turtle beach used to supply a female 3.5 to 2ph piggy back which would do it just make sure the tablet is muted first.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I am getting rid of the Radio unit all together. Using the USB DAC to send audio to an EQ which has an input from the DAC, and the AUX input. The EQ has a physical push button to switch between Main IN and the AUX IN inputs. So i wanted to Run a Female connector to the center console so that i could just plug in an male cord to the Female Input and hook that up to anyone's phone if they wanted.
Sounds like you're already there then. What was it that you were uncertain of about it?
ratykat said:
Sounds like you're already there then. What was it that you were uncertain of about it?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
How to mount the Aux... I cant find a RCA to Female Aux that allows it to be fixed installed.
EDIT:
LIKE THIS!!!! But Cheaper lol, i dont care for the aftermarket USB + Aux either..
http://www.ebay.com/itm/JL-Audio-XMC-3-5MM-PNL-3-5-mm-Panel-Mount-Jack-connects-aux-cable-/301084428008?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item461a07c6e8
BurningCanine said:
Also i am looking for ideas to install a Female input AUX into my Center Console for a factory look into the EQ, anyone know how?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
why not use the factory installed aux. Simply solder the cable inline with the factory cables and then hook it up to the aux of the clarion. you don't have to cut the cables just simply splice into them but make sure your connections are good and there is no cold solder as your sound quality is going to depend on it. you can also do the same with the USB, if you car has one, most of the time there is an extension mid way in the center console.
I am in the process of doing mine and I ran into that same plexi 2din case attachment...I might be going that route too as it can all be removed as one unit. I am also adding LEDs for the powers of each device. I will be able to troubleshoot faster knowing what may be wrong, ex: led for step down, led for otg, led for each usb hub, but hopefully nothing goes wrong. Good luck on the project. I too will be using Timur 2013 lollipop, it only makes sense to you use it since I have no idea how to compile something like that.
btw, if you are going to have all that incased inside that plexi box, you should consider getting a 5v/0.21amp Usb powered cpu fan to keep things cool in there, just connect it to the hub.
butwhydoitalk2u said:
why not use the factory installed aux. Simply solder the cable inline with the factory cables and then hook it up to the aux of the clarion. you don't have to cut the cables just simply splice into them but make sure your connections are good and there is no cold solder as your sound quality is going to depend on it. you can also do the same with the USB, if you car has one, most of the time there is an extension mid way in the center console.
I am in the process of doing mine and I ran into that same plexi 2din case attachment...I might be going that route too as it can all be removed as one unit. I am also adding LEDs for the powers of each device. I will be able to troubleshoot faster knowing what may be wrong, ex: led for step down, led for otg, led for each usb hub, but hopefully nothing goes wrong. Good luck on the project. I too will be using Timur 2013 lollipop, it only makes sense to you use it since I have no idea how to compile something like that.
btw, if you are going to have all that incased inside that plexi box, you should consider getting a 5v/0.21amp Usb powered cpu fan to keep things cool in there, just connect it to the hub.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Aux was not an option in my year mustang. The plexiglass just helps keep the components in one place, if i ever decide to rip it out when i sell the car. I am running into an issue on where to install the EQ however.
Is this any good to you?
http://www.amazon.co.uk/Input-Flush-Mount-female-auxiliary/dp/B00C6AGSDU
I'm interested in how you guys are finding Timurs build considering it's the first build I've seen that's paid for.
ratykat said:
Is this any good to you?
http://www.amazon.co.uk/Input-Flush-Mount-female-auxiliary/dp/B00C6AGSDU
I'm interested in how you guys are finding Timurs build considering it's the first build I've seen that's paid for.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I havent bought into yet. I am still considering my options and to see if there is a way around it. I got most of ny pieces for the build in already, but i have yet to mess around with it. I am assuming a custom lolli rom, something like cleanrom with experimentalx, might be all I would need, but your needs may be different. I'll start my own thread once I have everything in order.
As far as the aux...just buy an extention aux male to female or for a more professional look and even more functional they sell receptacles that take the place of your cigarette lighter, unless you need one of those, that offer an aux and usb. You can run a usb powerd from the step down to charge phone or usb extension from usb hub for music.
Also, the fan is to dissipate the heat that is going to build up from your car sitting in the sun and the greenhouse effect the plexi is going to give your electronics. Just my opinion. The EQ can be mounted in any position from under the dash to inside the glove box. The one thing to consider is how often you are going to access the knobs on it. If you are going to do it frequently then it needs to be mounted somewhere in plain view. I am not too familiar with the car. Good luck on the build though.
ratykat said:
Is this any good to you?
http://www.amazon.co.uk/Input-Flush-Mount-female-auxiliary/dp/B00C6AGSDU
I'm interested in how you guys are finding Timurs build considering it's the first build I've seen that's paid for.
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I was mostly interested in Timurs due to the huge support behind him, and all of the drivers, and programs already built into his Rom/Kernal. It just made it so much more simple to me. Also for that Aux Cable, i want to retain a factory look, and i cant see that being very factory looking inside my center console. I think i will end up using the JBL one that i posted earlier, it looks more factory than the rest and i can ensure that the quality is the highest.
butwhydoitalk2u said:
I havent bought into yet. I am still considering my options and to see if there is a way around it. I got most of ny pieces for the build in already, but i have yet to mess around with it. I am assuming a custom lolli rom, something like cleanrom with experimentalx, might be all I would need, but your needs may be different. I'll start my own thread once I have everything in order.
As far as the aux...just buy an extention aux male to female or for a more professional look and even more functional they sell receptacles that take the place of your cigarette lighter, unless you need one of those, that offer an aux and usb. You can run a usb powerd from the step down to charge phone or usb extension from usb hub for music.
Also, the fan is to dissipate the heat that is going to build up from your car sitting in the sun and the greenhouse effect the plexi is going to give your electronics. Just my opinion. The EQ can be mounted in any position from under the dash to inside the glove box. The one thing to consider is how often you are going to access the knobs on it. If you are going to do it frequently then it needs to be mounted somewhere in plain view. I am not too familiar with the car. Good luck on the build though.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Im going to run temp activated fan i think to control when it gets to hot. Seems the best for me since it can be on when the car is off to keep it a little cooler in the summer. That small of a fan wouldnt drain the battery too fast either. AS far as the EQ, i chose this EQ because of the physical Volume nob. Im thinking that i am going to end up moving the buttons for my Fogs, Defrost and Traction control down, and glass the EQ in their spots.
Well, i went to install the tablet today. Ended up breaking the OTG cable so i have another one on the way by saturday. Will update when it comes!
Sorry to hear that. You must have done something sever though, all my usb otg cables have been attacked with the Dremel to get it in the tight space I havevand they're fine :S
That aux I posted up is what you asked for, cheaper. If you have a fold down cigarette tray then it could easily hide in there and still look OEM. The jl audio one you posted looks like it takes over the 12v supply with that cap in it, so if have a quick measure.
Whilst we are on the subject of 12v, what have you done for power? I'm looking at running a usb charger off the back of my lighter/12v so you can't see it in the future. Just curious if you've taken power from elsewhere.
In regards to kernels I run glitch on a stock 5 build and that does usb otg audio and fast charge absolutely fine. The only issue I've seen so far is occasionally I have to reboot for the audio to switch back to the DAC. Let me know how you get on with Timurs and if it's worth buying
ratykat said:
Sorry to hear that. You must have done something sever though, all my usb otg cables have been attacked with the Dremel to get it in the tight space I havevand they're fine :S
That aux I posted up is what you asked for, cheaper. If you have a fold down cigarette tray then it could easily hide in there and still look OEM. The jl audio one you posted looks like it takes over the 12v supply with that cap in it, so if have a quick measure.
Whilst we are on the subject of 12v, what have you done for power? I'm looking at running a usb charger off the back of my lighter/12v so you can't see it in the future. Just curious if you've taken power from elsewhere.
In regards to kernels I run glitch on a stock 5 build and that does usb otg audio and fast charge absolutely fine. The only issue I've seen so far is occasionally I have to reboot for the audio to switch back to the DAC. Let me know how you get on with Timurs and if it's worth buying
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The cable didnt break, but the tip of the OTG cable did. When i was installing i had to bend it a little to go into a notch i made in my console, well it bent to much and wouldnt work anymore. I may try and shave the supporting rubber around it and make a right angle from it.
Yeah looking more and more of it, i think im going to go with the JL one because i have a cigarette lighter outlet in the bezel on my dash that doesn't work that well, so i will just replace it with that. As far as power, i had bought 2 DC-DC 15w 3a usb chargers that you wire directly to a 12v supply, turns out that they didnt work so im contacting the seller to see if it is my fault they dont work or just faulty. If it turns out that it does not work regardless of what i did i am going to go to radio shack and pick up an accessories socket and glue it to the inside of the box i made so it wont be seen. Turns out that the harness i bought from metra has a power and a ground and it will shut off and turn on as the key is turned. So if it comes down to it i will hook it up to that. Also seeing as my remote on wire wont be connected to anything i hooked that up to the power to the radio as well and piggy backed the EQ remote on from it. I will let you know what happens with the power though, i have it currently hooked up to the cigarette lighter that doesn't work all the time, and it seems to be doing fine.
As far as timurs rom goes, it has everything i want in one rom. It has all the files for backup camera, it has power management, DAC doesnt have any issues, it is a seamless product with all the necessities i needed in one build. One of the reasons i went towards that rom is because of the amount of stuff in one place that i wouldnt have to hunt for!
Its all finished for the time being, i will start adding on the other things later on as i need them.
Im looking for a super super thing auxiliary cable. I litteralt have the space of two quaters. Tried removine all the rubber and folding but still the mettal part is too long
dude this is awesome!!
I wish I knew how to make stuff like this, I own a 04 Mustang and damn it now I wanna have my N7 there lol
BurningCanine said:
Hello all, I am new to this forum. I brought my thread over here because on the forums I post on normally for my car they seem to have 0 interest in the subject. My goal is to receive help from you guys, as well as maybe help any of you out! So to start off with a little history of the car. The car is a 2004 Mustang with non-mach stereo. I Currently have a single din radio and 2 amps (1 for door speakers, other for 2 12" subs), and all upgraded speakers and wiring. I have always wanted a touch screen radio and navigation, so that i did not have to use my phone the whole time while driving. I was looking into pioneers and alpine double dins, but for the features i wanted i couldn't justify spending 1200 bucks. So that left me at the same place i started at. I started browsing tablet installs when i discovered one of the guys i follow on instagram put a Ipad Mini into his dash. This really got me thinking about what i could do, so after about 6 months of juggling the idea, and doing some heavy research about which tablet to use and which Roms were best for in-car installation i found the Nexus 7. And that Triggered this build, which i will regularly update as the build goes on.
So to start off this is the list of stuff that i will need or have acquired, acquired is marked with blue, and will also have the price and total at the end. Items that have unknown prices are ones that i have not decided what to get or cant find what i want.
Need/Have:
- Nexus 7 2013 (32gb) (115.00 - Staples)
- Timurs Rom (28.94 - Donation)
- Clarion EQS746 (54.49 - Amazon)
- Behringer UCA202 USB DAC (29.99 - Amazon)
- 2X DC-DC Converter Module 12V To 5V 3A 15W Double USB Output Power Adapter (11.99 Ebay)
- USB Hub - Powered (unknown)
- Back-Up Camera (16.87 - Ebay)
- Easy Cap (Unknown)
- FM transmitter (Unknown)
- PlexiGlass (21.99 - Lowes)
- RCA Cables (6.99 - Radioshack)
- Right Angle OTG Cable Adapter (4.99 - Amazon)
- OTG Cable with Power (3.99 - Amazon)
- Micro USB to USB (6.98 - Amazon) Need this to connect the right angle to the OTG cable
- Metra 95-5026 Double DIN Installation Kit (9.29 - Amazon) Need this for parts of the mounting method
- Metra 70-5520 Wiring Harness (4.49 - Amazon) This is to connect power
- Hard Snap on Case (4.29 - Amazon) Part of Mounting Method
Total Price: $320.20
This list is for stuff previous to nexus 7 install/as well as some apps for in dash installation:
Hifonics Hfi1000.1d (129.99 - Amazon)
Hifonics ZRX600.4 (93.00 - Amazon)
LI12D4 - Incriminator Audio 12" x 2 (508.00 - Amazon)
Beautiful Widgets Pro (3.63 - Play Store)
Tasker (2.99 - Play Store)
Nova Launcher Prime (4.00 - Play Store)
GMD Auto Hide Pro (2.49 - Play Store)
Total Price: $744.10 - Most of this is tied up up in speakers/amps.
I chose Timurs rom because of the dedicated support forums, and the amount of followers behind the build, This rom allows for fixed installation, which is most likely what ill be doing. It enables OTG so i can hook up a USB hub to it, and have access to back up camera, music storage, and also play audio through the DAC.
As far as mounting method for the tablet will be doing away with the radio completely and putting the tablet in its place like so (Imagine it behind the bezel lol)
For mounting I stumbled upon different ways that people have accomplished and didnt like any of them, most of them stayed out of the bezel, and the ones that were in the bezel were fixed and was not easy to remove.... then i found this build, i loved the idea of having it fixed, but then again easily removable if need be!
Subaru In-Car Install - Mounting
So that is when i started to build this!
It is pretty messy looking right now, but i will be painting it black so that it will blend with the case, and look like it is meant to be their.
I have a bunch of parts coming in the mail this week, that is the only thing that is holding up the In-Car process of the build.
I had a bunch of free time yesterday so i decided to start working on the UI for the tablet. I found a build that someone had done in a BMW that i really liked, and they even posted their PSD file for it. I began Chopping it to meet my own personal needs and build, and came up with this!
On the Tablet side, i just used it as a background and created invisible widgets that were placed onto the "Icon" and directly linked to the corresponding app. After i got all of that worked out, and added some widgets to the screen and removed the navigation bad i decided to work with tasker a little bit. I wanted the device to stimulate when power is off to key, and when power is on to key. So i created two different profiles and added task to each, they are as follows.
Power ON:
Airplane Mode - Disabled
Display Timeout - 23hrs
Display Brightness - 158
Popup - Welcome Back
Media Volume - Level 14 of 15
Bluetooth - ON
GPS - On
Wifi - On
Auto Sync - On
Power OFF:
Popup - Booting into Low Power Mode
Display Timeout - 15s
Wait 10s
Bluetooth - Off
Auto-Sync - Off
Wifi - Off
Music - Stop
Airplane Mode - On
TaskKill - Chrome/Maps/Pandora/Spotify/PowerAmp
Go Home
Some Video Action
I will update this regularly, if you have any questions comments or anything else please post below in fact i encourage it!
Also i am looking for ideas to install a Female input AUX into my Center Console for a factory look into the EQ, anyone know how?
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How did you get the nexus 32 gb for $115??
kbrn said:
dude this is awesome!!
I wish I knew how to make stuff like this, I own a 04 Mustang and damn it now I wanna have my N7 there lol
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Lol, Wasnt that hard at all. If you want to do the build i can hook you up with all the information and resources to get u where u need to be.
lucky_strike33 said:
How did you get the nexus 32 gb for $115??
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Local Staples had them on clearance, had trouble with register taking my card. Manager gave me 15% Discount for my troubles.
UPDATE: System works fine so far, only one little bug that i am working out. GPS and wifi connect and work properly, USB DAC works flawlessly, charger works well. The little bug is that when the tablet comes out of firm sleep the buttons dont seem to work except the back button. Dont know what it is but im looking into it.
Where do I buy Timur for my nexus 2013? I went onto his website but couldn't find the donation or download option?
so i have a somewhat similar install in my e39. I am doing 3.5mm to RCA right now, i want to make the switch over to USB OTG.
What specific parts do I need to make it work??
PS I have a pre-amp RCA input processor that it has to connect to.
Mirrored from my Amazon review on this unit:
Here are all of the pieces we purchased with the A62721PB 2G/32G, in order to install in our 2006 Dodge Ram 1500 truck. Install is still not complete, but I'll get to that in a bit.
(associate links removed for spam filter)
As you can see, its an ordeal to install this unit. Even the manufacturer doesn't seem to understand the vehicles it will be installed in, in our case, a 06 Ram 1500. Standard Chrysler wiring (would be the same for almost any 06 Dodge, Chrysler, Jeep... etc) telling me to tap into the -5v canbus wiring as the accessory switch. To properly install this in those vehicles, you need a CanBus adapter, which will give you the ability to turn to ACC and run the unit, and allow it to dim with the interior lighting. Neither of those are done in a 12v switched wire in these vehicles. Oh, and you will need an antenna adapter too... both of these I have yet to buy . If you have more than basic radio functions in your vehicle, you need a better install kit. Basic wiring wont cut it to do the job right.
As it is, I used a tap to the ignition switch (+12v) to turn the unit on until I have a few bucks to pick up a proper install. So think of all of that when buying. To get all the functions, you need more parts, so a $300 radio turns into a $500 radio quick.
OK.. Use. Most of my use is with Google Maps, Amazon Music (offline) or the backup cam. Getting those or any software setup with large downloads was a pain, as this unit shuts off the wifi with the key, so no updates while you sleep, and no way to turn that functionality on. Unless you leave your keys in the vehicle (not the best choice). And with the sub-par performance of the wifi in this unit, its going to take a while. I can see my home wifi all over my property with our phones. The truck only seems to see my neighbor's connection. The antenna is mounted under the black part of the windshield trim, just out of view. In fact, the only good reception I've gotten is with a portable hotspot in the truck. The A6 also cannot seem to see our 5gHz channels. These seem to be built to the same standards as generic 2010 tablets.
The built in pairing is useless. It just shares the screen image with the head unit. No controls, no passthrough... just video. If I wanted to use my phone I would have stuck to the ram mount. PDA-Net is the only way I've been able to connect, as my phone plan doesn't include wifi hotspot.
Speaking of phone hookup and this unity, you can share data (like PDA. net) or use fast charge. not both? And those USB leads really should come with some sort of bracket and template for in-dash installation. We plan on making these, but really, it would be a lot nicer to have it come with. Right now, they just fall out of the bottom of the dash like an afterthought.
Additionally, we negated to install the microphone. Most times people can hear you fine. If not, you have to re-boot the system. You also have to reboot when it wont pause music when a call comes in, or lower sound when the rear camera activates.
-Side note about that pause... most sub $30 bluetooth adapters resume your media when you start the vehicle back up. not this one.. you got to hush the FM software, navigate back to your music (Amazon music in our case) and then hit play. Since there is no play button on the factory remote, its a real pain in the backside. Not well thought out Atoto. -
Reverse cam is basic, we bought the matching ATOTO one and the quality is garbage. Looking for a better unit now. Nice that it just lowers the music while backing up, and doesn't cut out though.
I haven't tried to install a better home screen or layout in this unit. It would help to have a bit more open framework. The colors and designs are bland and garish at the same time (congrats on that hot mess Atoto) with no support for changing them.
The best looking interface and use so far has been Torque, which we have the pro version of, and has been useful to see a few tuning parameters as well as info for towing. We bought a generic ODB2 dongle and it works fine. The downside is the built in browser for looking up a trouble code that came from blowing out our dash lighting during install (dumb grounding mistake, should have known better and pulled the battery leads. ) No support for acceleration sensors though, seems the A6 does not have them. So if you want this for your autocross car, maybe skip it and just use a used Samsung Tab or something.
Im going to look into re-flashing the headunit after we button up the install with a better ROM, better apps, and hope I can find a good dashcam utility that works for this. CarWebGuru works at first, but then on re-boot will disable all sound, cameras, and the remote if left as the launcher. If not, it still works, but is kindof redundant.
overall, its a project. Take a full day to get it all installed, maybe longer to dial it in right.
Overall, so far, we spent a total of $368.17, and will be spending at least another $80 on this unit. I guess that is the name of the game when you want to do things right, and not spend $800+ on a turnkey system.
I also discovered that Prey security will install, but not open on this unit. Thought it would be nice to have a bit of additional theft protection int eh truck and the ability to track it if it did get stolen.
. I recently bought the a6 and had to learn the hard way also. I'm installing in a 13 Dodge Durango.
Majority of the extra cost would come with any new aftermarket unit since newer vehicles need to communicate with the can us system. I went in also thinking I could buy the cheap harness and be good to go. Majority of the Chinese headunits are made for international vehicles. . Most are plug and play.
I got on lightning deal for $200 and so far about $100 in parts. But I expect this with any aftermarket radio I install. Days of cheap harness and dash kit are over.
But anything is worth the cost vs my stock radio.
Just like any Chinese product(coming from Android TV boxes) they take a lot of tinkering but that comes with the cheap price. I plan on 8nstalling one of the car launchers and replacing every non essetnial app.
Power amp or gmmp for music. So with my limited testing, I've had a good experience. I'm within 20ft of my router at home so speeds been great. Bluetooth has been Rock solid also with media.
Will post more on Sunday when I complete the install.
Right on. I didnt have the cash to buy one from some place thats worked out more bugs. I have industry friends that sell a unit that retails at $800, adn I could get it wholesale, but thats still a chunk more cash than I had.
Got my wifi a bit better sorted this afternoon by putting a repeater out in my little tool shed, and finally have 75% of the tomtomgo USA map downloaded. This unit nor that app are good at downloading. I also noticed something about Car Web Guru on startup... if the factory launcher does not have default access, not only will certain things stop working (cameras, sound, USB), but it screws with the clock, which then throws off other apps that use the clock as part of any sort of key. Amazon does this with offline music, which I have a lot of on here.
TeamADW said:
Right on. I didnt have the cash to buy one from some place thats worked out more bugs. I have industry friends that sell a unit that retails at $800, adn I could get it wholesale, but thats still a chunk more cash than I had.
Got my wifi a bit better sorted this afternoon by putting a repeater out in my little tool shed, and finally have 75% of the tomtomgo USA map downloaded. This unit nor that app are good at downloading. I also noticed something about Car Web Guru on startup... if the factory launcher does not have default access, not only will certain things stop working (cameras, sound, USB), but it screws with the clock, which then throws off other apps that use the clock as part of any sort of key. Amazon does this with offline music, which I have a lot of on here.
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Click to collapse
I don't believe these stereos are any different from one another. I've read about changing launchers breaking things. Luckily I believe there is a fix out there.
Probably try emailing them for possible fix..
I still need the steering wheel module but thats something I'll do in future upgrade
intruda119 said:
I don't believe these stereos are any different from one another. I've read about changing launchers breaking things. Luckily I believe there is a fix out there.
Probably try emailing them for possible fix..
I still need the steering wheel module but thats something I'll do in future upgrade
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have emailed them, but the language barrier is strong here. Talked about changing the launcher, and they told me it is not possible, but I am willing to try more now that I have a few more tools at hand.
Just curious, if your vehicle doesn't have a 12v acc, is there a 12v power outlet /cig lighter (or anything else) that is controlled by the key. You could use any 12v that is controlled by the key and tie it the unit acc.
stabone00 said:
Just curious, if your vehicle doesn't have a 12v acc, is there a 12v power outlet /cig lighter (or anything else) that is controlled by the key. You could use any 12v that is controlled by the key and tie it the unit acc.
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Click to collapse
What vehicle do you have?
If nothing is there under the radio dash, you can tap into the fuse box.
Wont work. 12v+ ACC is controlled by the bus. With the key off, the cigar lighter ports are still charged with 8-10v, which the unit sees as an on trigger.
In order to get around this, you need a canbus controller, which is available from a few companies.
intruda119 said:
What vehicle do you have?
If nothing is there under the radio dash, you can tap into the fuse box.
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Click to collapse
I agree, fuse box would be your best bet. Aside from just the key switch, you could probably find a delayed off or open door off. If not, you just need to find a circuit activated by the key, could be any voltage made or ground made. Relays are cheap.
stabone00 said:
I agree, fuse box would be your best bet. Aside from just the key switch, you could probably find a delayed off or open door off. If not, you just need to find a circuit activated by the key, could be any voltage made or ground made. Relays are cheap.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yeah need to know what type of vehicle it is.
Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk
Any body get Waze working?
Unit can't find position/gps
Why would I do that in this truck with a relay and aux fuse panel, when I can control th dimming and ACC on via the canbus and an appropriate interface? Ive dealt with a lot of vehicle electronics (its part of my job) and going around a proven modern system with a bunch of jankey wiring just looks bad, especially in this case where it isnt needed.
In our Jeep Cherokee, maybe, but that also has things liek additional trailer wiring and radio equipment going in, as well as separate harnesses for the lighting to overcome stock deficiencies, but the Ram is pretty solid. Atoto says they have a built in canbus interface coming, just not there yet.
TeamADW said:
Why would I do that in this truck with a relay and aux fuse panel, when I can control th dimming and ACC on via the canbus and an appropriate interface? Ive dealt with a lot of vehicle electronics (its part of my job) and going around a proven modern system with a bunch of jankey wiring just looks bad, especially in this case where it isnt needed.
In our Jeep Cherokee, maybe, but that also has things liek additional trailer wiring and radio equipment going in, as well as separate harnesses for the lighting to overcome stock deficiencies, but the Ram is pretty solid. Atoto says they have a built in canbus interface coming, just not there yet.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yeah why would you do that?
Our last few post was towards the guy asking about it. We can only assume he has an older vehicle.
intruda119 said:
Yeah why would you do that?
Our last few post was towards the guy asking about it. We can only assume he has an older vehicle.
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Click to collapse
Ah, my bad. Yeah, if you have an older vehicle, you could do a relay setup for ACC, but normally thats just a stop on the key, at least back to the 70s.
My thoughts.
Built in amp is 10x better than the stock one.
Very little lag when operating the unit. Lags a bit when streaming and downloading at same time.
Plays all types of media.
Screen is great. Easily used with sunlight shining through(sun roof)
Dims at night time correctly.
2sec boot is amazing.
Presistent app permissions notification drives me nuts.
App installs take forever(download is fast as the connection)
3ven thought 99% of time I'm listening to Google play or off HDD would be nice to limit volume when turning on car when fm radio auto starts.
Everything outside of my noobnesw and lots of user error has been plug and play. What's taking me 2 weeks so far would probably take experienced person 1hr or less.
I took apart the unit and can't understand why these units are bigger than name brand headunits. There is nothing in them but space.
Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk
The screen is very nice. Boot time is more like time to pop the screen on, like when you hit the power button on your phone after its been in your pocket on standy. The real boot time takes forever (why is this microwave so slow!!!!1)
Mine keeps having issues with SD cards. have had it randomly say its corrupted, pull it out, reinsert, and all good. Just odd I think . And I finally found a good GPS app for this one, since it has enough space, the TomTom app is perfect. At least for my uses, even with having to pay for a month when using it for longer distances.
My biggest issue other than the few mentioned already in this thread, is the lack of speaker settings. There isn't enough options for speaker fine tuning, and as a result I can't get my speakers to sound good at all without massive distortion and clipping. Anyone know if there's a solution for this?
XDApurp said:
My biggest issue other than the few mentioned already in this thread, is the lack of speaker settings. There isn't enough options for speaker fine tuning, and as a result I can't get my speakers to sound good at all without massive distortion and clipping. Anyone know if there's a solution for this?
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Click to collapse
Best I can think of would be through a different amplifier than the built in one. Best luck I have had is with the "natural" setting. Its all software based, I found that it stops working and needs rebooted to get the profile back. Im betting thats a driver issue, and one we wont see updated in the A6.
You guys do know the trick about hitting BACK when the FM tuner comes up, then selecting the Atoto AUX and hitting HOME (leaving it in memory) to prevent the auto-start of FM and getting blasted out of the cab, right?
With the AUX trick, CarWebGuru (or other launchers) will autostart just fine. Every now and then (especially after a long power-off, like a day or two) you might have to repeat the trick, and more often, you'll need to manually start AUX if things like steering wheel controls or the Atoto equalizer isn't working after a restart (Aux or FM will force a restart of the MCU hardware).