Database Users

8525 camera is dying

My 8-month old (Cingular) 8525's camera is acting weirdo. [See below]. The viewscreen likewise has this kind of view. Moreover, I've noticed that since this happened, my battery life became CONSIDERABLY shorter, from 100% to shutdown in a matter of 8 hours standby. I could get 2-3 days out of my battery prior to this issue. Could this be a battery issue or something internal?
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have you tried setting the camera settings to default? Also make sure that the bar inbetween the plus and minus signs at the bottom left corner area of the screen when the camera is on, make sure that the middle bar is selected and that the number above is 0, and not in the negative or positive. My contrast, or sharpness, or whatever that section symbolizes was in the negative one time, and I though that my camera sucked for about 2 days, before I fixed it back to zero.

A hard-reset did not fix it.

I feel this is not a software but a hardware problem. However it is most likely just that the push in connector for the camera has worked loose. (Not uncommon)
This is not a major dismantle:
Relevant pics:
Above: Back casing removed. The camera is shown with its connector disappearing below the scroll wheel assembly on the right.
Above here we see the camera connector above the scroll wheel connector shown as a white block.
Below the removed Scroll Wheel assembly. This was held in place by a single screw (Screw hole above beside connector)
Move to the next post - four picture limit so I need another post!!
Mike

Above you see the camera removed. The push in connector has multiple pins. To re-seat press in and pull out two or three times to ensure good contacts. Reseat firmly and re-assemble.
Mike
PS Don't forget that Macro button toggle arm is located properly before replacing back casing screws!!

I want to take out the 2mp camera from my 8525 (hermes) and put a 3mp camera instead possibly from the 8925 (tilt) has anyone tried this before please let me know I don't want to do this unless I know it can be done successfully.

hey MikeChannon i have this camera problem too..unable to start camera unable to initialize camera.but before i got this warnings my camera took pics like black and white stripes.then went off.i did what you did in pics but nothing changed.help me please

taktakkimo said:
hey MikeChannon i have this camera problem too..unable to start camera unable to initialize camera.but before i got this warnings my camera took pics like black and white stripes.then went off.i did what you did in pics but nothing changed.help me please
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The problem with giving advice on this is that without testing it, it's difficult to be sure where the problem lies.
I would take out the camera module again. Thoroughly clean the contacts - perhaps even with a mildly abrasive emery paper. (afterall it's not working anyway so not much to lose).
If that fails then I suspect the camera module needs replacing, BUT it might be a fault on the board it plugs into. For this reason it's probably more cost efficient to buy a camera module fro a Hermes that's being parted out for spares rather than buying a new camera.
Mike

mikechannon
Excellent posts! Do you know if the 8125 camera will work in the 8525?

gmaslin said:
mikechannon
Excellent posts! Do you know if the 8125 camera will work in the 8525?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Sorry, I don't know. I have my doubts that it would work and the two cameras have different specs. I think. You could check the Service Manuals for each to compare.
Mike

mikechannon
Thanks for the timely reply. I don't have access to the service manuals but I did look at the 8500 replacement parts lists and the camera was not listed. What is the going rate for a used 8500 unit for parts?

gmaslin said:
mikechannon
Thanks for the timely reply. I don't have access to the service manuals but I did look at the 8500 replacement parts lists and the camera was not listed. What is the going rate for a used 8500 unit for parts?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I imagine the prices vary quite a lot. Why not ask this guy:
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=555602
Or look/ask in the Marketplace Forum here at XDA-Devs.
I can let you have Service Manuals if you PM me.
Mike

I was just informed that there was an 8500 which was an 8525 without a camera? Does the camera have any supporting motherboard hardware on this phone? Can I just drop in an 8525 camera unit?

gmaslin said:
I was just informed that there was an 8500 which was an 8525 without a camera? Does the camera have any supporting motherboard hardware on this phone? Can I just drop in an 8525 camera unit?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Don't know, but if you use the 8525 manual to dismantle the 8500 (nothing major just back cover removal and scroll wheel board), then you will have your answer. Under the scroll wheel board should be a push in multi-connector for the camera. See pics above.
You would also need the camera software - but that's floating around here.
Mike

Hi there, I have a hermes fully working ( aside from the radio acting up a bit ) if the offer is fair I posted it a couple days ago but only low ball responses thus far.
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?p=4516532#post4516532
Let me know

mikechannon
Wouldn't I need both 8500 and 8525 motherboards to compare?
pyraxiate
Thanks for the offer but I just picked up an 8500 with charger and headset for $15. Fair value is a descending line with the current economy and rate of obsolescence. I'll pm an offer and hope you don't get insulted.

gmaslin said:
mikechannon
Wouldn't I need both 8500 and 8525 motherboards to compare?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You'd need to look under the Scroll wheel board on the 8500 to see if the multi-connector socket is present but unused. You can predict what it looks like by looking at the camera connector on page one of this thread. I think there is a good possibilitythat it is there because I have heard that in models with no front camera, the board does have the socket and a camera can be installed. Of course the problem is that you'd need a new rear cover.
Mike

mike i did what you told but nothing changed =( and finally i opened the cameras lens.in it there is only a cmos sensor..my question is where is the necessary chips or other stuff to work the camera? on the mainbord or cameras inside?

just asking
hi all...i'm just curious, i have htc softbank x01ht, the camera is working perfectly, but the results is way too dark,is there any patch or software to enhance picture quality?thx

chenzeepo said:
hi all...i'm just curious, i have htc softbank x01ht, the camera is working perfectly, but the results is way too dark,is there any patch or software to enhance picture quality?thx
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
There are camera tweaks - I'd have to do searches on "camera fix" etc to find them. Have a look around, but remember, the Hermes camera is one that really only works well in good sunlight.
Mike

[REF] Completely Disassemble the HTC Touch

Sorry about the lack of pictures. I'm an iPhone convert so I don't visit this site anymore so I didn't notice they'd gone. But to all those who didn't realise there was a PDF of the guide, I've re-uploaded the pictures from a new source so they're up again.
I've also received a lot of messages from members asking if I would repair their Elf or change the housing etc, so I just wanted to say that yes I am happy to do this (I'm in the UK), so just drop me a PM if you want.
This is a guide to illustrate how to completely disassemble the HTC Touch, including the digitizer
What you need:
T5 Screwdriver
#2 Screwdriver
Plastic opening tools
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If you want to be on the safe side I’d also recommend using anti static gloves
To start, remove the back cover by pushing it upwards and sliding it off
Remove the battery and stylus
Using the T5 screwdriver remove the 4 screws at each corner of the main chassis

Remove the rear speaker at the top of the main chassis by lifting it off
To remove the front housing, use a plastic tool to get between the front part of the case and the chrome rim. Work it around the edge to release all of the catches
Now you need to disconnect the front housing from the mainboard by using a plastic tool to gently lift the connection from the mainboard

Next, disconnect the vibration part by lifting the red and black wired connection from the mainboard
To remove the mainboard from the chassis, gently pull the USB connection upwards. Once it is just out, pull it clear using the sides – avoid touching it as much as possible

To remove the camera, simply pull it away from the mainboard in the same way as the front housing separates from the mainboard
To take the LCD out, you need to first disconnect it. To do so, first remove the yellow tape that lies over the connection

Next, open the catch holding the ribbon cable in place, and pull it out
You will now be able to pull the LCD out without having the remove the LCD’s metal chassis as the ribbon will pull through the back of it
If you need to remove the LCD’s metal chassis, use the T5 screwdriver to undo the 2 screws beneath it, and it will come off

To remove the digitizer, you need to first disconnect it from the circuitboard behind the keypad by undoing the catch and pulling it out
Although not necessary, I would advise you to remove the circuitboard behind the keypad before the digitizer incase it is damaged during the process
To do this, simply remove the 2 screws holding it in place using the #2 screwdriver

Then pull the board out by levering it up with the plastic tools. This may take some fiddling but it will come out by gently pulling it while sliding it upwards at the same time
The keypad will now easily come out
To continue with removing the digitizer, push it forwards from behind by pushing on the corners. It is stuck in with a type of glue so it may feel as if it won’t come out but it will

The digitizer’s ribbon cable will then slide out of the hole on the front housing
To remove the earpiece speaker from the front housing, simply lever it up using the plastic tool or carefully with a screwdriver

The vibration part from the main chassis easily pulls out
The on/off button, camera button and the SIM and MicroSD card holder door will easily remove from the main chassis by lifting them out
To remove the speaker from the back you simply need to lever it out
This will hopefully help you to replace the housing on your device, or replace faulty parts
Good luck!

WOW! Just simply WOW! Fantastic guide man. And so much clarity by using the blue background and crystal clear pics. This shud be made a sticky. I have never seen such a thorough and clean and clear cut disassembling guide. You are surely the DISASSEMBLER guru.

Very useful if I get a Touch!
By the way, I like the IMEI in picture number 3!
EDIT: actually, 4 and 5 has an even better shot...

yeah so much clarity. this shud be made a sticky. what you say l3v5y?

I've made it sticky for now... If anyone disagrees, PM me!

l3v5y said:
Very useful if I get a Touch!
By the way, I like the IMEI in picture number 3!
EDIT: actually, 4 and 5 has an even better shot...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Didn't think of that one. Thanks for the heads up
(But there's no IMEI number in picture 3)

oseven said:
Didn't think of that one. Thanks for the heads up
(But there's no IMEI number in picture 3)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hence the "EDIT"
I miscounted the first time...

Nice quality of pics
an alternative guide (pics not so good I think) is here:
HTC Touch
Service Manual ( not all in English)
HTC ELF_Touch Service Manual.pdf
Other Guides Service Manuals
www.mikechannon.net
I have added OSeven's brilliantly clear guide to the above site but for ease here is the link:
OSeven's Disassembly Guide - HTC Touch - Elf
Mike

ayyu3m said:
WOW! Just simply WOW! Fantastic guide man. And so much clarity by using the blue background and crystal clear pics. This shud be made a sticky. I have never seen such a thorough and clean and clear cut disassembling guide. You are surely the DISASSEMBLER guru.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I just remember how little information there was when I originally wanted to change my housing so it stopped me doing it until I broke my first Touch and had nothing to lose. I found one guide but it only showed as far as removing the front case...not the digitizer or anything else. But hopefully this will give newbies the confidence to try it because it's really not difficult

mikechannon said:
So erm... can I PDF it? The pics alone make it a good 'un. Full credit of course,then I can add it to the collection. There again you could do it, might take me a good while with all those pics and comments.
What dya say? - buy you a pint!
Mike
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I think guides like this can only add to things!
I'm bored ATM so I'll turn it into a PDF if no one else can be bothered!

mikechannon said:
So erm... can I PDF it? The pics alone make it a good 'un. Full credit of course,then I can add it to the collection. There again you could do it, might take me a good while with all those pics and comments.
What dya say? - buy you a pint!
Mike
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Go for it
I'm just finishing off something else atm but I'd be happy to do it in a bit, unless l3v5y beats me to it

Done!
Took longer than it might have as I can't code and make pdfs at the same time!

HD2 Opening Instructions for dummies (only till Main PCB)

Disclaimer: Opening your HD2 will result in your warranty becoming VOID. Any damage to your HD2 as a result of following this walk-through is not my fault and was because you have large clumsy hands. If you want your phone repaired professionally without your warranty voided, send it to your supplier.
Tools you will need:
- HD2
- T5 screwdriver
- Tool kit for Phone/iPod/PSP (available on ebay, pictured below)
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1) To start off with, turn off the phone then remove the battery cover along with the battery, SIM card and SD card.
2) WARNING! This next step will VOID your warranty. Remove the 4 screws using the T5 screwdriver.
3) Now comes the fun bit, stick the suction cup near the top of the screen and insert the blue tool (for lack of a real name) between the screen and casing.
4) Once the blue tool is in you should be able to pop the screen out one side at a time as there are two sets of "hooks" that hold it in place. You can pull on the suction cup to make this process easier.
5) Now that the top bit is out you need to run the blue tool down the sides of the screen to loosen it up. Then pull on the suction cup and it should separate quite easily.
6) To remove the main PCB you need to remove 3 screws using the T5 screwdriver. There are 6 connectors on the Main PCB, 3 on the top (yellow) and three on the bottom (red). You will also need to remove the copper shielding, you can do so by carefully pulling it off taking care not to deform it as you will need it back it the same place when you reassemble it.
Reassembling it is just a reverse process of the disassembly with the exception of the volume buttons, I've found them quite annoying to hold in place as you push the screen back and had to try multiple times to get it right.
That's all I got up to so far, if I get a weekend off I'll try to go further and do a complete guide, along with replacing the screen. If anyone has any suggestions/improvements please let me know as this was a little rushed.
Notes: You can use a plastic screwdriver if you don't want to buy the blue thingy but it may damage your phone. On my first opening attempt I used a screwdriver and there is slight damage to the top where I inserted it. Second attempt with the blue thingy and there is no additional damage and the screen was much easier to remove.

Reserved #1

This is very informative. Thank you.

Very well done. Thank you for your time. I do hope I will not have to come back to this guide anytime soon .

Many thanks, but can you do a youtube video of this? I tried to do this using exactly the same tools, but i didn't manage to remove the glass unit from the backcover although i used the blue plastic tool in the same way.

When do you have time to look at the screen? I've got all the tools ready, and the replacement screen. Hope to see some guide somewhere soon

Sorry, been real busy as of late. May do it in a month or two. But there are some videos that might help you here.
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=640877

Thanks. My HD2 has a crack running from the battery holding place and all the way where the screen starts. I was gutted but looks easier than thought now , Thanks to these instructions by you if I buy a new back casing cover.

Thank you, Maybe now I can start thinking more seriously about replacing my LED to support more colours
Very nice quality BTW

If I may say well done I have had to take down my hd2 twice for screen replacements and I can't really say I'm proud of it.

My HD2 only has two screws. Is the uk casing different to the US one ?.

fallenmonk said:
My HD2 only has two screws. Is the uk casing different to the US one ?.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Nope. Someone must have tried to open it

Please help
I have tried to open my HD2, with a screw driver instead of a plastic tool.. it almost popped open, but i could also hear a sound like glue coming loose ..and after i just thought to put the HD2 back together and turn it back on, my touch screen stopped working.. What can i do?
Sorry for posting in a thread that is almost two years old
Kind regards,
GUS4

GUS4 said:
Please help
I have tried to open my HD2, with a screw driver instead of a plastic tool.. it almost popped open, but i could also hear a sound like glue coming loose ..and after i just thought to put the HD2 back together and turn it back on, my touch screen stopped working.. What can i do?
Sorry for posting in a thread that is almost two years old
Kind regards,
GUS4
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You should seriously think to get your touchscreen replaced, most likely you cracked it in your attempt to open your phone.

Hi
I Have tried that but only it opens the middle part of the lcd and i cant reach the back.
what can i do?

Edited 30/1/2012: My GPS 100% fixed (21/4/11 PICS ADDED)

EDIT: 30/1/2012.
Just a follow up on this fix. Well, got sick of constantly having to replace the tape under the battery cover. Over time it flattens, so since I now use the S2 as my daily phone I decided to open it up.
First I found the GPS connection on the motherboard. It connects to / touches a small metal piece on the inside of the rear housing. It's like a U shaped connector so I decided to lift it up with my fingernail.
For a little while it worked great but the problem returned. So I decided to open it up again and lift the connector even higher. Unfortunately I broke it leaving only a flat bottom metal piece on the motherboard side. There was now no way for the 2 pieces to touch so I screwed it completely.
So I then decided to solder a small bit on the rear housing side. I did that and put it back together. Ever since then the GPS has truely been 100% fixed. It hasn't missed a beat over the last 3 or so months of trying.
END EDIT.
NOTE: This is a hardware fix for those whose GPS is completely busted (NO sat views & lock). It is NOT a fix to improve tracking or lock or make an already working GPS better.
After flashing every modem, fw and kernal version I had completely given up on my galaxy s GPS. It had to be a hardware fault.
Back when I first got it, it was OK but a few months later became useless. This fix is hardware related and takes only minutes to diagnose and fix.
It's also probably more useful for pre-October models (i9000 international) which had this fault.
I do not take credit for finding out the fix. Credit for that goes to member 'allottios' (who heard about it from 'cbdrift') for bringing it to my attention on another forum topic.
The fix is simple. Remove the back cover and to the right of the speaker is the GPS antenna. It is covered by what looks like some sort of soft plastic tape.
Now open a GPS test app and then apply light pressure to the very top of the antenna with your finger. NOT the middle or bottom - that makes it worse.
If, like me your GPS shows instant improvement then you have just worked out your problem.
Simply attach a small piece of double sided tape or similar to the top of the antenna so that when you put the back cover on again their is pressure on that spot.
Hope you get the same results I did.
Edit: PICS ADDED: 1ST PIC - AT THE TOP RIGHT CORNER, YOU CAN SEE A WHITE STRIP WHICH IS THE DOUBLE-SIDED TAPE I ATTACHED TO THE TOP OF THE GPS ANTENNA. I DID NOT PEEL THE TOP LAYER FROM THE TAPE SO IT WOULDN'T STICK TO THE BACK COVER.
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,
Edit (03/05) - If this fix doesn't help, you may also want to try out another fix posted by 'stockie78' (post 209).
There is also a link below for more detail, including pics for this fix.
It is not as simple as the above fix and it involves removing the housing. I have not tried / tested this myself and am not responsible if you break your phone.
"stockie78
Unfortunately the g-spot trick did not work for me, so I decided to look a little closer and removed the plastic housing.
Another guy installed on the metal thingys there a cable and I did some test, too. Again no improvement with different cables and lengths.
But while fiddling around with the metal connector I thought maybe lifting it could help and indeed this was the trick for me. Improved my gps dramatically!
So instead of something pushing the antenna tighter, the metal connector now pushes harder and improves the signal quality.
Maybe a solution for some of you too..."
Link: http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=878970
Sent from my GT-I9000 using XDA Premium App

I can confirm that this works for me! Got a lock in two seconds and the arrow followed my path perfectly while I was on the bus, a feat that seemed impossible before! Thanks a million!
If I let go of the antenna the gps loses it signal straight away..

Seriously this deserves a bump! Got a lock on 12 Satellites(!) when putting pressure on the top of the antenna and lost it as soon as I let go.

I`m seriously impressed. Tested on Sygic Aura, iGo and CoPilot and they localyze me immediatly !!!! THANKS A LOT !!!!!

Tried on my SGS and can't honestly see and difference

I did something similar a while back by taking the phone appart to access the interior parts of the phone. I then bent the connector for the GPS up so that more pressure would be applied. It worked great at first then started to get worse after some time. I'm guessing this is because the connector reverted back to its original position (kind of like an elastic).
I suppose this is a similar trick, but instead of applying more pressure from the connector, it does it from the cover. I'll try to get hold of some tape to try this.
By the way I have a Galaxy S from July, and GPS sucks badly on mine.

Need detailed pictures!
Hope it works!!

THANK YOU VERY MUCH!!!!
My jam just dropped. I just got gps lock within seconds... in my living room, where I had occasionally one sat in sight.
Just applied a small piece of that blue sticky stuff on the very top of the gps antenna and voilà. Cover on and lock is a go go.
Thanks for sharing this

nice one! locked 12 sats after 5 secs!
so a small tape should do the trick eh?

Getting a lock as soon as I start GPS Test! No more jumping around in Google Maps either! This is THE best fix for the SGS yet! Finally I'll be able to use my phone as my primary GPS navigator!

Is it possible for someone to post picture of area that needs to be pushed! Thanks!!!

Toss3 said:
Getting a lock as soon as I start GPS Test! No more jumping around in Google Maps either! This is THE best fix for the SGS yet! Finally I'll be able to use my phone as my primary GPS navigator!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
same here too, wtf if i knew that before ... i would not have so many gray hairs
thanks for sharing
p.s.: connection stays good without any further pressure here, put the cover on again, gps still great

I can't believe this all these months, kernels modem and all kind of fixes and the solution is a duct tape, wow!
Thanks works for me!

Asterix040 said:
Is it possible for someone to post picture of area that needs to be pushed! Thanks!!!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You should see an elongated rectangle shape on the rightmost part of your phone after removing the back cover(just to the right of your speaker and sim card) - just apply some pressure on the top part(for me it takes a fair bit for it to work) and voila you're done. I'll try to post pics soon!
Second pic taken while indoors on a cloudy day!

Twinsis said:
I can't believe this all these months, kernels modem and all kind of fixes and the solution is a duck tape, wow!
Thanks works for me!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Not Duck. Duct, like air duct ; )

Toss3 said:
You should see an elongated rectangle shape on the rightmost part of your phone after removing the back cover(just to the right of your speaker and sim card) - just apply some pressure on the top part(for me it takes a fair bit for it to work) and voila you're done. I'll try to post pics soon!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That would be most appriciated. I'am visual person!

This actually works!!! I bought the galaxy s back in july and the last few months I have been unable to get a gps fix no matter what I tried! After reading this thread I went outside and pushed the top of the antenna. In a few seconds i got 5 meter accuracy and 8 satellites in use! Now I have to find a way to keep the antenna pressed! Thanks a million for the tip!

Samsung should buy you more than one beer!
How much money did they spent to fix that issue?
Thanks man!

This must be the sweet spot?
Edit: ops, to late ; )
/qsec

Well guys, I would like to try it, but my display seems to stop working as I remove the back cover?! Anyone has same issue? What could be wrong?
With backplate cover on, everything works just fine, but without....black screen. Although that phone seems to be responding

P9000 Disassembly (I broke it)

So I dropped my phone and broke the front glass. LCD works but not touch-screen so pretty much useless. I decided to take it apart first to see how hard it would be to replace the screen as I could see screens can be bought from AliExpress for about 65 USD or 99 USD from elephone.hk.
Took some pictures along the way as I couldn't find any images of the internals of this phone online so this might help someone trying to replace their screen or just thinking about it.
1) Back cover - this comes off rather easily once you get something between the edge and start nudging the clips to open. Notice that the whole back cover is glued a bit to the battery so even after getting all the edges open I still had to use some force to remove it from the battery. PS: The side-buttons are attached to the cover also so try not to hurt those while removing the back.
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"lightbox_share": "Share",
"lightbox_zoom": "Zoom",
"lightbox_new_window": "New window",
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2) Next I removed the bottom half cover to see if I could access the screen cables from there. Notice that the black ribbon that goes to the screen is the home button LED light and cannot be removed without unsoldering it!
3) I took off the top cover and unhooked the battery.
4) The battery - It's glued to the metal frame using 2 strips of glue and it took me 10 minutes to get it out safely without damaging it (it's soft so you can probably easily make it explode in your hands).
5) Took me some thinking but I removed the whole main board. The bottom side is glued and I had to break some black "paper" to get it out.
6) Screen - After getting the main board out I had enough room to force the screen out. Notice that the screen is glued from the top and bottom but sides are not glued. Some sensor cable from the front panel is glued to the camera's LED lights. The speaker was a bit hard to take out and I managed to break one of the soldered cables for that :S The bottom of the screen was glued on extremely hard.
Some notes: You definitely need to remove the battery as the screen cable runs underneath it. I'm not certain you need to remove the main board as it seemed you might be able to replace the front screen without taking that off. There's a lot of glued stuff in there so you better have good tools to pull things apart without breaking it.
So finally after having taken it apart enough and asserting a few things I decided that replacing the whole screen and re-building it will take too much time. I just saw a deal for $199 with wireless charger included. So having a choice of $65 new screen + 4 weeks of waiting and then spending 2 hours trying to replace it or buying a new one for $199 and getting a wireless charger + extra USB-C cable - I just ordered a new one. Plus I get to keep the old phone parts around for spares in case any of the side-buttons or front-speaker etc break
Just a note - my phone was in the official flip-cover when falling and got hit into the bottom right front corner and the cracks went all over the screen. I'm rather certain now that the phone's front glass panel is rather fragile and while having the silicone enclosure would've saved it in my case it's still a bit easy to break.
PS: Just wanted to add that I was actually genuinely impressed by the overall quality of the phone and Elephone in general for providing decent updates and support and assembly quality was good so while the glass panel is fragile I still decided to order a new phone from them!

Hi, I also had to replace the screen, so I tore down the phone before I ordered the new screen to see if I could do it safely. And I did (I didn't have to remove the main board, I just removed the screws and left it loose so I could remove the flat cable from the top. The problem is the screen took a couple of weeks to arrive and now I don't remember where a couple of small metal pieces that looks like contacts go. One is golden and the other is silver, both very small, looks like they fit in something similar to the antenna connector. Do you have any ideas of where are they supposed to go?

llucax said:
Hi, I also had to replace the screen, so I tore down the phone before I ordered the new screen to see if I could do it safely. And I did (I didn't have to remove the main board, I just removed the screws and left it loose so I could remove the flat cable from the top. The problem is the screen took a couple of weeks to arrive and now I don't remember where a couple of small metal pieces that looks like contacts go. One is golden and the other is silver, both very small, looks like they fit in something similar to the antenna connector. Do you have any ideas of where are they supposed to go?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I cannot remember exactly either, but I think there were two of them.
One of them was visible on this pic in the top right area, above the cable that goes under the LED lights.
The other one I remember had a similar purpose, but since I packed the parts away already I cannot remember where and it would take too much time to re-piece it together to figure it out.
(Exactly the reason why I decided to go for the new one instead of replacing the screen).

xataxxx said:
I cannot remember exactly either, but I think there were two of them.
One of them was visible on this pic in the top right area, above the cable that goes under the LED lights.
The other one I remember had a similar purpose, but since I packed the parts away already I cannot remember where and it would take too much time to re-piece it together to figure it out.
(Exactly the reason why I decided to go for the new one instead of replacing the screen).
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I finally figured it out. Yes, I saw the one in the pic, and the other one goes in the bottom part, on the right, just below the top right screw to hold the plastic bottom part. I finally managed to assemble everything back with the new screen and it works perfectly. Thanks!

i also have to change my display screen hopefully new arrives soon and the change is not to complicated

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=irDOXh1QoKE

And last few minutes of this showing how to remove the back cover

Hi,
I'm thinking of taking my back panel off for the purposes of fixing the GPS connections as advised here: http://bbs.elephone.hk/thread-11201-1-3.html#.V9SPfygrKM9
Now the op talks about aligning the springs with the backpanel connectors. Can someone take whichever picture is above and highlight which springs they mean?

i broke my screen on this phone, i have horizontal lines appearing on it, have tried three new screen and all display the same, i think there is a problem with mainboard after it was dropped so i am going to buy a new mainboard, anyone else experience this issue, when i wake it up its fine but after a second the lines come up, im pretty sure the screens are fine but something comes up and makes the lines

I've got this phone. I kept it in a safe place disassembled and at that time it was working, some days ago when reassembling the device, it shows no sign of life whatsoever, nor power up or charging battery; I thought the battery was completely dead, bought a brand new one but same situation... Do you think is possible that some kind of oxydation prevents the phone charging and power up? If connected to PC via usb cable, it shows Mediatek Preloader, so I think the phone is not dead.... Thank you all for answering, regards.