Database Users

Is my vibration motor dead / disconnected?

Hi everyone,
My Hermes does not vibrate anymore, there are two possible reasons as I see it:
1. I dropped my phone on monday, the battery cover came off and the battery fell out, the phone seemed to be fine after I put them back (most likely)
2. I upgraded from radio 1.18 to 1.27 (unlikely)
Those are the only two recent events which have happened to my phone, and as I doubt the radio has anything to do with the vibrator motor I assumed that when I dropped it, the motor broke off its contacts or something.
Things I have tried:
1. Upgrade to AKU 3.3 (previously running SA 1.35)
2. Downgrade radio to 1.18 again (no luck, back on 1.27 now)
3. Hard reset
4. Soft reset
5. BL 1.01, 1.04
6. Various combinations of all of the above
I have come to the conclusion it must be a hardware issue. I've looked at pictures of the inside of the Hermes but nothing is obviously the motor - could anyone point it out to me on an image? I'd like to have a look at it and if it has broken off its contacts, solder it back on, or buy a new one and install it if it is broken.
Also, are there any programs that can test the vibration definitively? It doesn't vibrate when I am rung or texted, even though the setting is to vibrate, and it doesn't vibrate when I toggle vibrate mode from the Comm manager.
Many thanks

unfortunately your not the first to suffer this problem:
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=293004
i know that's not really of much help, in terms of fixing the issue. but i think it proves that it is some kind of hardware fault that many of us are experiencing. i've had this problem for a while now, and yeh, its very annoying, but I dont trust t-mobile enough to give it back to them to get it fixed because other than that everything else works fine, and in my experience if i get it repaired its bound to come back with even more problems

Thanks for your reply, I had read that thread but unfortunately for me I bought this phone off eBay (for £245 after O2 wanted £260 to replace my Wizard...) so I have no warrantee.
I am an electronic engineer so I'm not afraid to get inside either, if it is an obvious and easy-to-fix fault (wire needs resoldering or something) I will let everyone know.
Don't suppose anyone can point to a picture showing the motor could they?

Oliy said:
Thanks for your reply, I had read that thread but unfortunately for me I bought this phone off eBay (for £245 after O2 wanted £260 to replace my Wizard...) so I have no warrantee.
I am an electronic engineer so I'm not afraid to get inside either, if it is an obvious and easy-to-fix fault (wire needs resoldering or something) I will let everyone know.
Don't suppose anyone can point to a picture showing the motor could they?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The motor is on the back cover and contacts the mother board via spring contacts. It is possible that a sharp knock could flatten these contacts and stop connection to the board. This would be an easy fix - bend contacts back to original position and all you need is to take back cover off!!
Mike

I have fixed it - I opened up the case (just took off the back cover - this voids your warrantee) and it is located at the bottom. It has two spring loaded pins which contact the main board, and one appeared to be bent slightly out of shape. After bending it back I reassembled and everything works again!
Thanks for your reply Mike, I had actually just got back from my mate-with-the-T6-screwdriver's house where I fixed it when I read your post!
Thanks all

A hard knock can bend the Vibrate Motor's copper spring contacts enough to make them lose contact with the board. In other cases contact may be poor due to some oxidisation on the contacts.
For those who are not worried about their warranty, giving those contacts a tweak back into shape would not be a daunting task. 4 screws on the back cover, remove sim card AND Micro Card and with a bit of patience ease off back cover. That's all the dismantling needed .
Do remember to line up the little macro toggle arm on the camera with its catch on the cover when putting back together. First time I did this I forgot, got everything all screwed back and then discovered the camera macro arm was not lined up with the switch on the casing. So i would check the macro switch is working before finally putting screws back in.
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Some people are able to get the motor to re-establish contact with the m/board by giving the device a few sharp taps on the bottom edge. This can work provided the spring contacts are not excessively bent. Worth a try especially for those with a warranty for whom opening up would be warranty voiding.
Cheers
Mike

Ahh...so that's why my Dopod838Pro is not vibrating at times...I knew it had something to do with the amount of times I dropped the phone...(lol) well, I will try this solution and get back to you guys.
Thanks for the info Mike.

BUY/SELL a broken Wizard! Protect our dying breed.

do you have a broken wizard you'd like to sell? simply put it under www.ebay.com and signal the broken wizard offer (THE LINK!) under this thread - specifying the type of defect.
There is a number of OTHER broken wizards (like mine!) that could be repaired by recovering parts from others. And very often we could repair more than one - so after you've repaired yours you could try to resell the remaining pieces.
So, anybody having a broken wizard: follow this thread and we will ALL save money!
As you know, the service manual is very detailed and allows easy replacement of many parts: screens, keyboards, mainboards, stylus holders...batteries!
anyway, we are not anymore under warranty....right?
Comments also welcome, since keep the thread high in the list...

Anything YOU NEED?
Hi,
all those in need of parts could also post here...i desperately need one LCD PCB - since the connector on the flat cable between the LCD and the PCB went bad and my display doesn't work anymore/ after months of shaky performances...THX

anybody got a screen around?need the lcd+digitizer. im not sure yet whether its a gold or black connection, will check later on, but just wondering if anyone has an lcd around..
where could i get the service manual?

anyone know where I can find a switch? Yes, a switch not the button. Long story

Hi,
I have for sale the LCD and touch screen. However, it's more complicated.
My touch screen was cracked but the LCD was good so I bought a new touch screen and tried to fixed it but I was not able to connect touch screen to the LCD (solder the tape?). So I quit and bought a new LCD with the touch screnn. So now I have an used LCD and a brand new touch screen for sale. If you are good in fixing things, I'm sure you will have fun
Let me know if you need some more information or pictures.
Peace,
Tom

I'm looking for a brand new full external case (the front frame with the Imate Logo on it) and a non scratched LCD preferably with a screen protector installed on it.

That post by Janesaka about baby powder links to a worm! DON"T CLICK IT!

Hi all. I'm in need of the usb connector like in photos below for the wizard/8125. (Mine broke) Does anyone have or know where I can purchase one?
Thanks,
s-one
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usb connector
i got many USB...
do you have ebay account?

My son's Wizard/Cingular 8125 Died
I'll be listing my son's Cingular 8125 later on today on Ebay. It appears the motherboard went "belly up" on it. . . just 3 weeks out of warranty. At least -- from reading some other threads on the forums about the same type problems, that's what I'm surmising happened to it. It wasn't dropped, kicked, sat on, run over, etc., etc. -- it just shut down while he was on the Internet, never to be revived again. I tried switching out his battery with my fully-charged battery to rule that out and tried a few other ideas I found on the forums -- NADA.
No blinking LED when plugged into the wall charger and the PC gives me an error message that the "USB Device has malfunctioned" when plugging it up to the USB sync cable. He had been running the WM6 Underground Edition ROM for a little over 2 months without any problems. It's also one of the original G3 chip phones.
Thought I'd post on here before listing it to see if anyone is interested. PM me if you are.
(MODS -- if this isn't allowed, please remove the post, and I'm sorry)

hmmmm
newbie2 said:
I'll be listing my son's Cingular 8125 later on today on Ebay. It appears the motherboard went "belly up" on it. . . just 3 weeks out of warranty. At least -- from reading some other threads on the forums about the same type problems, that's what I'm surmising happened to it. It wasn't dropped, kicked, sat on, run over, etc., etc. -- it just shut down while he was on the Internet, never to be revived again. I tried switching out his battery with my fully-charged battery to rule that out and tried a few other ideas I found on the forums -- NADA.
No blinking LED when plugged into the wall charger and the PC gives me an error message that the "USB Device has malfunctioned" when plugging it up to the USB sync cable. He had been running the WM6 Underground Edition ROM for a little over 2 months without any problems. It's also one of the original G3 chip phones.
Thought I'd post on here before listing it to see if anyone is interested. PM me if you are.
(MODS -- if this isn't allowed, please remove the post, and I'm sorry)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
ok sir.. for how much will you sell it?

Anyone has an LCD screen for the Wizard?

fencer said:
Anyone has an LCD screen for the Wizard?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I do but without a Touch Screen. Just an LCD.
~Tom

I need the MDA's main ribbon cable if anyone has one please??

i'm selling my unlocked cingular 8125 almost brand new. no scratches for $200. I'm just a Nokia/Symbian Guy. Phone works fine with faria's 3.3 pm me with offers

power button
can anyone tell me what kind of part i would need to fix a broken power button? not the actual button, but whatever needs to connect for me to actually turn off the device

b.mann said:
can anyone tell me what kind of part i would need to fix a broken power button? not the actual button, but whatever needs to connect for me to actually turn off the device
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
What do you mean? Did the actual button break the one inside soldered to the board or just the case button that is used to press on the real button?
I broke the actual button trying to put the case back on and I got an old board I am desoldering the buttons from. If this is the case then I could probably send you one.
tommhnyc said:
I do but without a Touch Screen. Just an LCD.
~Tom
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
how much?

My wizard nearly fully survived a good old swim in a lake. The only thing that's broke right now is my touchscreen. Does anyone have a spare one they could sell me? It's a touchscreen digitizer with serial LTP280QV-E01
Many thanks

bikerjeg said:
What do you mean? Did the actual button break the one inside soldered to the board or just the case button that is used to press on the real button?
I broke the actual button trying to put the case back on and I got an old board I am desoldering the buttons from. If this is the case then I could probably send you one.
how much?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
i mean the connection between the button and the mobo, or something like that
when i press the power button, nothing happens

usb connector port for tmobile mda
prinsipe21 said:
i got many USB...
do you have ebay account?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes I do porto3535. How much you want for that

Front speaker problem

I've found many threads on issues with the back speaker... but not the front
I think I've damaged it by poking a screwdriver into the gap at the top of the face of the phone; between the two LED's. When I take a call it sounds very weird and roboty and crackly.
(I was trying to clean the phone without opening it...but then I had to anyway)
I also seem to have very poor reception since opening the phone; could I have misplaced/unaligned something?
thanks

aameerp said:
I've found many threads on issues with the back speaker... but not the front
I think I've damaged it by poking a screwdriver into the gap at the top of the face of the phone; between the two LED's. When I take a call it sounds very weird and roboty and crackly.
(I was trying to clean the phone without opening it...but then I had to anyway)
I also seem to have very poor reception since opening the phone; could I have misplaced/unaligned something?
thanks
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I suspect you just need to tweak out the front speaker contacts so they more firmly contact the mother board (fairly common problem):
see here:
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=283490
and curiously your other thread – the springy speaker contacts can be seen in the photo!
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?p=1487822#post1487822
Mike

Just tried this, it doesn't seem to have worked, I'll try again in a few hours; I'll extend slightly less. Maybe I damaged it, pierced it etc. (the speaker)
What seems to be very worrying also is the poor reception; I'll try other networks and see.
Oh, the Internet Explorer button works now though.
Thank you very much for this.
Would this speaker off ebay do the trick:
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=170141244842&fromMakeTrack=true&ssPageName=VIP:watchlink:middle:uk

aameerp said:
Just tried this, it doesn't seem to have worked, I'll try again in a few hours; I'll extend slightly less. Maybe I damaged it, pierced it etc. (the speaker)
What seems to be very worrying also is the poor reception; I'll try other networks and see.
Oh, the Internet Explorer button works now though.
Thank you very much for this.
Would this speaker off ebay do the trick:
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/MOTOROLA-L7-R...ryZ50331QQrdZ1QQssPageNameZWD1VQQcmdZViewItem
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That certainly looks like the Motorola one that is reported to work as a replacement. From the picture it looks as though you'd have to bend the contacts around a bit. At least it's fairly cheap - but if you're getting it I'd do it right away - they only have four in stock and many people will see your link here!)
A thought occurs to me though from what you say. If reception is poor, is it not possible that the poor sound quality is due to the poor signal?
Might be as well to check the aerial connection is seating properly:
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It's that gold bar top left and it sits into the gold connector.
Mike

thank you, I'll give that a go later, the signal probelm was only after I opened the device up due to the speaker problem.
I've just bought the item off ebay and I'll let you know how I get on.

Got speaker this morning; it was damaged-1 pin missing
waiting for reply from seller

Regarding the reception proble, after a decent few days, its got much worse, so mush so call are dropped, the gold pins etc. are ok? should i get a reception booster?
also i have a little rubber button-like thing out of the device, but do not know what its for, i've attached a pretty crap pic (sorry). Its soft rubber, flexible, black, really small-less than half the size of the microSD, from atop it looks rectangular, but there is also a rectangular elevation. from belowm there is a slight indentation, and on the front face there is a slit. any ideas?

aameerp said:
Regarding the reception proble, after a decent few days, its got much worse, so mush so call are dropped, the gold pins etc. are ok? should i get a reception booster?
also i have a little rubber button-like thing out of the device, but do not know what its for, i've attached a pretty crap pic (sorry). Its soft rubber, flexible, black, really small-less than half the size of the microSD, from atop it looks rectangular, but there is also a rectangular elevation. from belowm there is a slight indentation, and on the front face there is a slit. any ideas?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Not sure what's up with your GSM radio.
The black part is the microphone cover from bottom end of motherboard.
Mike

cheers, maybe it was a network fault.

fitted the speaker off ebay, wouldn't say its great, but it does the job-maybe its poor quality speaker, maybe its the device, I don't know. The service off the eBay seller was great though; after initially recieving a faulty recieved unit I was quickly sent a replacement at no additional cost.
The poor reception issue was peculiar, it got to a point when at times it said sim card missing; that's when it became obvious. The silver clips which hold the sim card were loose and the sim card able to move easily-tightened them by pushing inward slightly and solved the problem.
Thanks very much for your help Mike.

aameerp said:
fitted the speaker off ebay, wouldn't say its great, but it does the job-maybe its poor quality speaker, maybe its the device, I don't know. The service off the eBay seller was great though; after initially recieving a faulty recieved unit I was quickly sent a replacement at no additional cost.
The poor reception issue was peculiar, it got to a point when at times it said sim card missing; that's when it became obvious. The silver clips which hold the sim card were loose and the sim card able to move easily-tightened them by pushing inward slightly and solved the problem.
Thanks very much for your help Mike.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Pleased it's working - even if not 100% perfect
Mike

Something's not right with my camera...

Hey everyone,
Something's not right with my camera(rear). At first, it works. Then, sometimes it works, sometimes it doesnt. Eventually, it deteriorated to working occasionally and now, extremely rarely. Lol. When i turn my camera on, all I see is a screen full of broken green lines. My phone is only 9 months old. Is this a sign of hardware failure? Here's how my camera looks like now.
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Thanks

Hehe, looks like mines sometime 2 or 3 time in 1 year, and allways when the phone is low battery , but later back to work.
bye (sorry for my poor english )

It's because the push on camera connector is loose:
Pop off the back casing, unscrew the jog wheel board and remove camera and then re-seat it's connector. Reassemble (remember to line up the camera macro lever with back case - and all will be well. Warranty Voiding of course.
Mike

If its still under warranty, then take it in for warranty fix. You may have to change you os and downgrade your spl back to how it was shipped though or they may charge for repairs...
Cheers...

yea i thought so too. initially i thought the camera connector was loose cause sometimes it works, sometimes not. i went to a local service centre (non-authorized) and they told me the lens is broken. i didnt agree, but they were supposed to be the pros..
anyway, thanks mod for the detailed pictures. warranty is already void.
but, i'm rather skeptical about removing the thing by myself. is it dangerous? will anything go wrong? lol sorry about my paranoia.

abubakar said:
yea i thought so too. initially i thought the camera connector was loose cause sometimes it works, sometimes not. i went to a local service centre (non-authorized) and they told me the lens is broken. i didnt agree, but they were supposed to be the pros..
anyway, thanks mod for the detailed pictures. warranty is already void.
but, i'm rather skeptical about removing the thing by myself. is it dangerous? will anything go wrong? lol sorry about my paranoia.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Well, more fiddly than difficult. 4 screws (torx No 6 screwdriver). Then use a plastic case opening tool or a plastic knife to release the casing (bottom end first) Work your way round till you've removed tha back. Then remove the screw holding the jog wheel. It then slides up and off. Now use the plastic tool to lift the camera connector. I would pu**** in again and off again a few times before finally inserting it. This helps clean off any oxidisation from the contacts. Reassemble and don't for get to line up the little lever on the camera with the switch on the back casing. Test that macro switch before finally putting the four screws back in again.
This is not a major dismantling and you do not need to remove the main circuit boards or interfere with any of the main connectors.
Mike

mikechannon said:
Well, more fiddly than difficult. 4 screws (torx No 6 screwdriver). Then use a plastic case opening tool or a plastic knife to release the casing (bottom end first) Work your way round till you've removed tha back. Then remove the screw holding the jog wheel. It then slides up and off. Now use the plastic tool to lift the camera connector. I would pu**** in again and off again a few times before finally inserting it. This helps clean off any oxidisation from the contacts. Reassemble and don't for get to line up the little lever on the camera with the switch on the back casing. Test that macro switch before finally putting the four screws back in again.
This is not a major dismantling and you do not need to remove the main circuit boards or interfere with any of the main connectors.
Mike
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hey there mike,
thanks alot for your time and effort in guiding me to this. I followed your instructions step by step, but still, the camera isnt working. I guess the camera must be broken then. Lol.

abubakar said:
Hey there mike,
thanks alot for your time and effort in guiding me to this. I followed your instructions step by step, but still, the camera isnt working. I guess the camera must be broken then. Lol.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Well it's relatively rare for them to be broken as opposed to just loose BUT there will be the odd one that is actually broken. Sadly, if you have checked everything softwarewise and the connector then it looks as if you need a new camera.
Perhaps you can ask around here for anyone selling off parts. What part of the pwrld are you in?
Mike

hi mike,
apparently, after replying to this thread, i made a soft reset and the camera worked. it worked for some time, maybe a couple of hours until i decided to make a soft reset again. Then, it didnt work anymore. So what does this tell me? Most probably it is loose? I was thinking of sticking layers of double-sided tapes on top of the connector so when i put the back case back on, it will push the double-sided tapes that will in turn push the connector to stay put on its place. Do you think this is viable?
Yeah i have thought of asking around here for people whose workplace doesnt allow them to use a camera or people with bricked devices to sell me their camera, if mine is really broken.
Thanks for your help Mike. Hope to hear from you soon

abubakar said:
hi mike,
apparently, after replying to this thread, i made a soft reset and the camera worked. it worked for some time, maybe a couple of hours until i decided to make a soft reset again. Then, it didnt work anymore. So what does this tell me? Most probably it is loose? I was thinking of sticking layers of double-sided tapes on top of the connector so when i put the back case back on, it will push the double-sided tapes that will in turn push the connector to stay put on its place. Do you think this is viable?
Yeah i have thought of asking around here for people whose workplace doesnt allow them to use a camera or people with bricked devices to sell me their camera, if mine is really broken.
Thanks for your help Mike. Hope to hear from you soon
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Well the mystery deepens. Did you take the connection out and in a few times?
I am a little concerned though that a soft reset alters the state of the camera. That suggests a software issue, although it does not rule out a poor connection.
I can't remember if you did a hard reset?
Mike

mikechannon said:
Well the mystery deepens. Did you take the connection out and in a few times?
I am a little concerned though that a soft reset alters the state of the camera. That suggests a software issue, although it does not rule out a poor connection.
I can't remember if you did a hard reset?
Mike
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I figured out that the connector must be loose. Another attempt on fixing the camera came with a similar result. Works at first, then not anymore. I then thought maybe there is a tiny gap between the connector and the jog wheel circuit board that allowed the connector to come loose.
So, I made a little modification by layering the connector with thin pieces of tapes until it fills up the small gap. Now it is "forced" to stay in place.
Another thing, after the mod, my phone failed to vibrate so I searched the forum and found one of your replies to a similar problem. Followed your instructions (again) and now everything works like a charm. I love my hermes. lol
Thanks again Mike, for everything.

btw mike, just out of curiosity, how can I improve the pic quality of my Hermes' camera? I've read about a hardware mod which removes the transparent front plastic cover. How about softwares? Although I highly doubt so, but is it possible to fix better cameras from other HTC phones to a Hermes?

Well! hopefully your fix is a permanent one
Regarding camera software - there are some that say the cool camera software by ateksoft (not free) is easier to use and takes better pictures.
Personally I find Hermes pics ok in good light and not worth taking in poor light. The flash is wortless for taking pics at night (unless you're taking a Macro pic. How often do you take Macro pics at night!!??)
http://www.topshareware.com/ATEKsoft-CoolCamera-download-43332.htm
or
http://www.ateksoft.com/
a couple of relevant threads:
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=359025
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=412291
Mike

mikechannon said:
Well! hopefully your fix is a permanent one
Regarding camera software - there are some that say the cool camera software by ateksoft (not free) is easier to use and takes better pictures.
Personally I find Hermes pics ok in good light and not worth taking in poor light. The flash is wortless for taking pics at night (unless you're taking a Macro pic. How often do you take Macro pics at night!!??)
http://www.topshareware.com/ATEKsoft-CoolCamera-download-43332.htm
or
http://www.ateksoft.com/
a couple of relevant threads:
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=359025
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=412291
Mike
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yeah hope it's a permanent one. Thanks for sharing. I'll check them out now

abubakar said:
Yeah hope it's a permanent one. Thanks for sharing. I'll check them out now
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
CoolCamera is the way to go.
Not that the actual quality is so much better, but the CoolCamera software seems much more stable. Far fewer pictures are blurry as it seems to snap them faster, in my experience.

arrgh deng..
mike. the camera do work now. but some problems occurred while i was playing with it. while i was moving about and turning around, some green vertical stripes started appearing and disappearing, more extreme when im pointing my camera towards a scene with high glaring. then, i did a little experiment. i covered my camera lens with a piece of leather. Then, no matter how i move or turn the camera around, the green lines did not appear. I'm guessing that this has something to do with the amount of light captured by the camera lens, which led me to think that my camera lens may actually be broken.
what do you think mike?

abubakar said:
arrgh deng..
mike. the camera do work now. but some problems occurred while i was playing with it. while i was moving about and turning around, some green vertical stripes started appearing and disappearing, more extreme when im pointing my camera towards a scene with high glaring. then, i did a little experiment. i covered my camera lens with a piece of leather. Then, no matter how i move or turn the camera around, the green lines did not appear. I'm guessing that this has something to do with the amount of light captured by the camera lens, which led me to think that my camera lens may actually be broken.
what do you think mike?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Possible I suppose though I'm a little doubtful due to the random nature of the problem. I recall you had it looked at at a repair shop and they said the lens was broken - maybe they are correct. Just seems odd that after firming up the connector it seems to have improved. (even if it's not 100%) It may be that the connector itself is fine but possible one of the connector wires is cracked - just a thought.
Mike

Guide to disassembly Acer F1 neotouch s200

In case the image hoster site go down,i ve uploade the guide in word format here:
http://www.megaupload.com/?d=VTZY4ZOL
Hi guys,i write this guide because since i had my nokia 3310,at least after one month i ve disassembled my phones to have a look inside.When i ve searched for a service manual from acer or for a guide from a user,i could not find anything about acer s200,i ve searched the entire web,forum to forum,from chinese to any other language,so i ve taken some pictures by myself,and writed this tutorial to take apart the phone.
all you need:
a torx T5 screwdriver
a guitar plectrum or phone opening tool
a little philips head screwdriver (sorry for this one but i forgot to take the picture with it)
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first step...start from removing the battery cover,and remove the battery,as you can see from the next picture in the red circles,there are 7 screws 5 torx and 2 philips head,remove all the screws,the sim card and the micro sd (the two philips head are in the side of battery bay)
next step is to remove this little plastic cover red marked,use the plectrum but be carefull,s200 material is not so good start from the bottom and gently slide
In the lower left position you can see a connector,this is the touch panel,you have to carefully detach this connector.You can see the position and the connector with the lcd panel detached in the red mark of the next picture
next step is to open the phone in two parts (the motherboard+lcd screeen,and the touch assembly),Start from the right middle side,its easier.Use the plectrum as in picture between metal shield and the plastic cover and gently make some pressure,slide the plectrum in all side to release the cover (this picture look strange and a little different from real, because i ve modified it with paint to look like the real action,i forgot to take picture and sorry no photoshop at home )
Now your phone should be like this divided in two parts:
you re ready to change screen,touch panel (like i do,the panel is attached to the cover with some tape,making some pressure will release it) or do evrything you want to do to the motherboard...Next pictures are taken in the process of changing touch panel
in the first picture you can see the touch panel i received,the other two let you see the difference betwen the panel i received over the original one.As you can see the acer logo in the first picture is not at the bottom center but at the upper right.In the next picture the touch keys are covered by white plastic in original panel (to better distribute light from led).In the next one you can see the camera hole on the right of the headphone hole,in the official one the hole is not present because the retail s200 doesn t came with a front camera...So if you buy it from ebay ask the seller if is the retail one,because mine is surely from the engineering sample,even if in the auction there is the picture of the retail one with original oem writed (like in mine,so i had to give seller negative feedback and ask paypal money back),or else the engineering sample one is a little less touch sensitive and you can see internal parts from the sensors holes (no smoked internal plastic).The next picture let you see the engineering sample
and here is the internal position of the front camera marked in yellow,as you can see all solder pads are present...
Ok i think it s a good guide,if you have some question i will try to answer here...
Sorry for my english but i m italian,if someone could correct me,will be mentioned in the guide
Bye

Nice,thanks

thank you ! that is very usefulif we got a problem

Thank you, this guide will be useful as i have to mount a new lcd screen.

Thanks good post

Very good
Thanks

I ve gotta thank you again.
with your instructions it took me 15 in total to mount the new LCD Display, Thanks for that

I m happy to give my little contribute to the forum.Next step is to search for a compatible better speaker

Very useful guide,
Good pictures, clear explanations, I think it will help lots of "screen breakers"...
Even if the S200 seems to be more resistant than HD2.
Thank you very much with this contribution.

legit guide OP!

How is connected gps antena with gps modul on chipset?
on my device don't work gps (don't find satellites) after change screen and vibration motor in service (unofficial) so I think that they bad connected something in service.

Hi kubino,the antenna is connected to the board by two pogo pins (it s like a spring contact).You can see the antenna if you remove the back battery cover,is the one made of a plastic black film in the upper right position.If you find some satellites but have not a good signal maybe it s the classic problem with the s200 antenna,so you have to follow the guide in this section to modify the antenna,or you have to select the right com port and baud rate in the phone settings.But if you get no signal at all could be a bad contact of the pogo pins,or a broken contact in the antenna or in the board.In this case maybe it s better to take it back to the assistance,because if you say them that the gps was working before the change of screen they have to take it back to work.If you need some picture of the gps antenna and the disassembly,you can go in this section to the threads:
Modify S200 GPS antenna to improve GPS signal strengt
or
Help | Speaker Problem (internal view of the gps location)

very nice manual!
I've got to replace my digitizer because it's very scratched.
I also damaged that "chromium plated rim" but I'm having problems to find a new one (I don't even know the name of it!!!).
It's possible to change it?
Anybody knows where I can find one?
Thanks!
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P.S.
Axel85 said:
...Next step is to search for a compatible better speaker...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That would be like the Holy Grail for neotouch!!

I don t understan wich piece you damaged,please post pictue.Sinces now no speaker is compatible for s200,i tried n95 n73 and also other nokia

I'm talking about this lateral rim...

Sorry but i can t see any picture...Are you talkin about buttons?

Hi all.
I've some problem with my F1 LCD.
In the middle there is a zone with shadow.If i touch this zone i've no feedback.
Dead zone.
What do i need to replace?
Digitizer?LCD?
What is the difference?
thanks all

Hi you have to change the digitizer,it s the clear plastic that is over the lcd screen.This plastic contain many micro switch that if pressed give you the touch response.Surely if you have no response in a zone it s caused by a faulty digitizer.I remember in my old pocket pc having the same shadow caused by water in the digitizer.You have to check if the shadow is in the digitizer or in the lcd,but surelly if you have no response the digitizer have some problems

Hi Axel.
I think LCD is ok. When light is on, the image are perfect. No shadow is visible.
Only on light off i can see dark shadow.
I found this:
http://cgi.ebay.it/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=180542664234&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT
It is ok for digitizer change?
Thanks again

Yes it s ok,but maybe it s better if you contact the seller and ask him if it s the retail one or the engineering sample,read my guide and you can understand.I ve ordered one like in your auction and i received the engineering sample (it s the same apart for some little difference)