Hey guys and girls. Recently someone decided to steal my stereo out of my 96 GMC Sonoma So I have a big hole in my dash and I should be getting my pre-ordered Fascinate tomorrow, as soon as Best Buy gets them in
The question I had was whether or not anyone here has the knowledge or could point me in the right direction to allow me to use my phone in place of my stereo. I was thinking of getting a dash mount and installing it in the dash where the stereo once was and routing the charger underneath as well. What I don't know is anything about the 3.5mm out. I know you can plug a 3.5 mm to RCA to get video out. I read a story today of how QuickPay has come out with a credit card reader that uses the 3.5mm port. I haven't found a good site that gives the specs on the output of the 3.5mm port audio tho.
I have the wiring diagram for my trucks electrical system, tho it doesn't show the impedance of the speakers. I know with my guitar amps and cabinets those specs matters and don't want to fry my phone by connecting it to the speakers with a rigged 3.5mm out to home made harness. I'm assuming there is hardware in the stereo that amplifies the signal to allow it to play on the 6 stocks speakers, but i'm not sure. I'm proficient with a soldering iron and have no problem heading to Radioshack for parts.
I dont know. If its as easy as going from the 3.5mm out to splitting it to the speakers, that would be great and I can do that. If i need to get a small amp and wire it in between the phone and car speakers I can do that too. Any ideas, I'd be more that happy to hear them.
If there is a better forum to pose this question, let me know. Otherwise I appreciate you time for reading such a long post and any feed back you may have.
Thank you.
Rusty
I would say get a cheap radio from wal mart,(that has a line n for ipod or something with 3.5mm) hook it straight n to ur phone, at least that way u wont fry anything on ur pretty new phone. (No pun intended, i played with one yesterday they are gorgeous)
Sent from my DROIDX using XDA App
You could get a four channel amp, nothing more than 50 watts per channel, then go from 3.5 to rca, then get 2 Y RCA cables (female to males) and wire that up, but buying a head unit would be the best thing
Sent from my ADR6300 using XDA App
I'm working on an advanced dockstation that's almost completed.
Problem is that I want to use the deskdockmode and I'm not sure if the 365K resistor (as with i9000) would work on the Note.
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=820275
Is it still deskdockmode or something like "deskclockmode"?
My meter doesn't work so I can't measure the resistor inside the genuine samsung dockstation which I will asap when my new meter arrives.
Apparently there is a PCB board in the genuine samsung dock (EU model).
Mixture of both resistors and capacitors.
Will look further into it later.
KurdX said:
Apparently there is a PCB board in the genuine samsung dock (EU model).
Mixture of both resistors and capacitors.
Will look further into it later.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I am interested in this too. Please update with what you find. Would be curious to know what is Cardock resistance as well.
david
1. I looked at ifixit internal images for the Apple TV and noticed that the board has test points, figured there may be a chance to JTAG it.
2. I wanted to check if Apple is using JTAG or SWD (serial wire debug) as ARM supports both. A quick search on jobs.apple.com reveals that Apple only uses JTAG/ICE and not Serial Wire Debug (no mention of it in the job descriptions). They talk about board level OS testing, so they do final testing in house after the board is fully manufactured. It seems they use cadence concept/allegro
3. I picked up ATV3 at Fry's this this morning and opened it, I did find space for two connectors
4. A 10 pin connector looks like ARM 10-PIN JTAG connector - (Mfgr: Don Connex P/N: C42 or Samtec P/N: SHF-105-01-L-D-TH). hxxp://xxx.samtec.com/ftppub/pdf/FTSH_SMT.PDF See attached picture: ATV3_J5101.jpg
5. A 30 pin FFC FPC ribbon cable connector. See attached picture: ATV3_J7301.jpg
I haven't traced the pins yet, but one them has to have JTAG. I will post my findings, but wanted to see if xda developers is the right forum or is there another place?
Another interest is that A5 is also in iphone 5. As the software bugs are patched, we may have only left with hardware hack to jailbreak. Hoping we can load a patched boot loader. Plus I am kinda old school developer hint: dms3/HU/S00/powersync
nice ur idea , is it apple will left their chip Jtag points opened ? get schematic and check if jtag is opened ..
early devices iDevices are all jtag closed like there :
Schematics? It's gonna be super hard to find those for the new devices
The difference between apple tv and iphone/ipod is that apple tv has PCB pads for actual connectors, the others only have test pads for board verification in the factory.
Based on my experience the solder pad lay out is a standard 30pin FPC.
Another thought is that the J7301 the 30pin connector could also be the standard IPOD connector as I have seen 30pin (single row ) connectors - but most of them have thru hole solder mounts. Anyone care to comment?
rgdeja said:
Schematics? It's gonna be super hard to find those for the new devices
The difference between apple tv and iphone/ipod is that apple tv has PCB pads for actual connectors, the others only have test pads for board verification in the factory.
Based on my experience the solder pad lay out is a standard 30pin FPC.
Another thought is that the J7301 the 30pin connector could also be the standard IPOD connector as I have seen 30pin (single row ) connectors - but most of them have thru hole solder mounts. Anyone care to comment?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
On the J7301 connector why dont you compare the pinouts to see if the gnd matches up to the board one,
darkspr1te
darkspr1te said:
On the J7301 connector why dont you compare the pinouts to see if the gnd matches up to the board one,
darkspr1te
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Already did, they dont match at all.
Booloader Discussion - Comments requested
Does any one know if Apple actually Rom Masked the bootrom on silicon of A5/A6 or just the keys and or key hash?
Based on my experience, some (usually dumb and to save on cost) chipset vendors will have an 'i2c like back door' and then load the ROM instead of actually MASKing it during fab. After the wafer is tested and passed verification, 'ROM MASK' is loaded then wafer is sent for packaging, If the left hand doesn't talk to the right hand, then these 'back door pads' on the wafer are wire bonded and the data sheet reflects as "reserved or test" PINs.
Also, the silicon is very expensive to have full ROM or public key to be masked in silicon.
Has anyone 'de-capped' an A5/A6 to find out unused pads on the silicon wafer?
went into a local car stereo shop to have my head unit installed (Joying 7" 1024x600 RK3188) and they didn't recognize the unit's male harness (?) connector (see attached photos). They say it's most likely to connect to a Chinese car and they will have to cut it off and splice the wires to an American car harness (PAC C2R-CHY4 harness for '07 Chrysler 300). Is this correct?? I was thinking of installing the head unit myself (since they wanted to charge me too much), wasn't sure if I actually do have to cut it off.
Any kind of insight is appreciated.
DiGiTY said:
went into a local car stereo shop to have my head unit installed (Joying 7" 1024x600 RK3188) and they didn't recognize the unit's male harness (?) connector (see attached photos).
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That's a standard DIN connector - if a car stereo shop doesn't recognize that, RUN AWAY, they're not very good!
If you don't want to cut the end off, a Scosche VW01RB should plug right in.
mike.s said:
That's a standard DIN connector - if a car stereo shop doesn't recognize that, RUN AWAY, they're not very good!
If you don't want to cut the end off, a Scosche VW01RB should plug right in.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
LMFAO! Good point! I found the Metra version (71-1784) and ordered that off Amazon since it can get here in 2 days.
Thanks!
Sent from my Nexus 9 using Tapatalk
I agree with mike.s. That's something pretty much every installer should know. Just as an FYI, I had mine installed on a Ford Explorer and didn't have to cut anything.
War-Rasta said:
I agree with mike.s. That's something pretty much every installer should know. Just as an FYI, I had mine installed on a Ford Explorer and didn't have to cut anything.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hmmm... now I'm confused. Everywhere online refers to this connector as for VW vehicles, but you put this in a Ford Explorer without that reverse harness?
Sent from my Nexus 9 using Tapatalk
DiGiTY said:
Hmmm... now I'm confused. Everywhere online refers to this connector as for VW vehicles, but you put this in a Ford Explorer without that reverse harness?
Sent from my Nexus 9 using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Well, I didn't do the installation (I paid a professional installer to do it) but I do remember the connector being the same as the one on the picture. For accuracy's sake, this is the actual headunit I got:
http://www.amazon.com/Pumpkin-Recei...25&sr=8-6&keywords=pumpkin+android+car+stereo
Yup, its the same. If you don't mind me asking, how much did you end up paying for installation? I went to a couple of installers and they wanted to charge me extra because they needed to customize the dash kit to fit the oversized head unit ($480+ at one shop and then $700+ at another shop... that second shop wanted to charge me $170 for my car's CANBUS harness even though it's $61 on Amazon, SMFH!)
Sent from my Nexus 9 using Tapatalk
Im in the Dominican Republic so what I paid over here will have no relation to the prices over there, but i've lived in the US in the past and it looks to me like they're trying to rip you off with those prices. It's definitely not worth it if you're going to pay more for installation than you paid for the actual headunit.
Just for the sake of information, I ended up paying the equivalent of about $150.00 dollars for installation, but it wasn't just the stereo. I had recently bought the Ford Explorer and I had a full sound system in my previous car that I wanted to have transfered over to the Explorer so that price was to remove the 4 speakers, amp and subwoofers from the old car, install the original speakers on it (I had kept them in a box for this exact situation), replace the Explorer's speakers for the ones I had, install the amp and subwoofers, install the back up camera (that I also purchased) AND installing the headunit.
LOL! If only I was still in NYC - I would of got a good deal like that in the heights or Bx.
Sent from my Nexus 9 using Tapatalk
kinda the same question
kinda the same question (sorry) just a different car. I have a 2011 Hyundai sonata. the radio I have has this same wiring harness. will it work in my car as well if I get the metra/scosche wiring harness adapter. or would I need to get something else. or it wont work at all. or can it just be hard wired. thanks for the help in advanced.
PAPRODIGY said:
kinda the same question (sorry) just a different car. I have a 2011 Hyundai sonata. the radio I have has this same wiring harness. will it work in my car as well if I get the metra/scosche wiring harness adapter. or would I need to get something else. or it wont work at all. or can it just be hard wired. thanks for the help in advanced.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I actually have a 2011 GLS. You need the Metra wiring harness to keep from destroying your factory wires. You just wire up the harness and then you connect the harness to the OEM slots. You do have to cut off the standard connector head unless you plan on selling the radio later, there is no good reason to keep it.
KingLo said:
I actually have a 2011 GLS. You need the Metra wiring harness to keep from destroying your factory wires. You just wire up the harness and then you connect the harness to the OEM slots. You do have to cut off the standard connector head unless you plan on selling the radio later, there is no good reason to keep it.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I kept it intact because I might sell it, I'm also anal and like things neat as possible.
Sent from my LG-D850 using Tapatalk
PAPRODIGY said:
kinda the same question (sorry) just a different car. I have a 2011 Hyundai sonata. the radio I have has this same wiring harness. will it work in my car as well if I get the metra/scosche wiring harness adapter. or would I need to get something else. or it wont work at all. or can it just be hard wired. thanks for the help in advanced.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Heads up... the memory/constant power and ACC wires/pins were swapped on my head unit's harness connector. Not sure if that is normal or a mistake with these things. Watch out for that
Sent from my LG-D850 using Tapatalk
thanks
DiGiTY said:
Heads up... the memory/constant power and ACC wires/pins were swapped on my head unit's harness connector. Not sure if that is normal or a mistake with these things. Watch out for that
Sent from my LG-D850 using Tapatalk All the wire will match up this wiring harness that's posted above with my car though with or with out a wiring harness right. and thanks again
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
PAPRODIGY said:
All the wire will match up this wiring harness that's posted above with my car though with or with out a wiring harness right. and thanks again
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Just note the wiring diagram from your unit and then the reverse harness (whose wires are most likely labeled). If there's differences, wire accordingly - you're just going to have to think on your feet.
Sent from my LG-D850 using Tapatalk
Hi,if you want to do wire modification because the harness is difference to your car !
you can use a multimeter. measure the voltage of your car to make connection .permanent +12V power wire to the Yellow wire on Joying ISO plug ,ignition +12V to the Red wire on Joying ISO plug .
and then connect the Black wire on the Joying ISO plug to GND ,the unit should power on .
the rest is connect the speaker cables .
Good luck
Does anybody know the series of connectors used for the inputs and outputs on many of these head units? A manufacturer name and series code would allow me to look them up on RS Components and / or Element 14/Farnell/Newark in order to source more as sellers won't supply any more than what they get packaged with the units (and probably don't know what they are anyway). The ones I'm referring to are the small white multi-pin shells and their pins.
Amp connector? Subtype goes by pin spacing/size
Mouser Electronics
Unfortunately AMP make a huge range of connectors and unless you are certain that AMP made those it doesn't really help with the search. Many other manufacturers also make similar but likely incompatible connectors, I'm lookintg for actual knowledge not a guess since I obviously can't try all the available connectors to see if they match.
Also Mouser does not have a proper presence in NZ, nor does Digikey so I'm limited to RS components or Element 14
Mr.TT_NZ said:
Unfortunately AMP make a huge range of connectors and unless you are certain that AMP made those it doesn't really help with the search. Many other manufacturers also make similar but likely incompatible connectors, I'm lookintg for actual knowledge not a guess since I obviously can't try all the available connectors to see if they match.
Also Mouser does not have a proper presence in NZ, nor does Digikey so I'm limited to RS components or Element 14
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Mouser or Digikey likely has them. Measure the exact dimensions, pin size and spacing; color is irrelevant. It isn't rocket science but it can be tedious.
Without the proper crimp tool it will be hard to get a good crimp... consider carefully soldering the wire to the pin.