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I wonder if it's possible to conect battery from nokia 3310 (3,6V, 1800mAh), as external battery for XDA.
I would try it, but I need to now what voltage have external battery for XDA and haw to connect it to connector on back side of XDA.
Can any ony help me :?:
not sure about xda1 but xda2's battery is 3.7 so 3.6 should be ok
here are how the connector are pin'd out
http://wiki.xda-developers.com/wiki/Connectors
of cause i'm not 100% if the volts used by the charging are higher then the 3.6 volts i mean if you can charge using usb then it could be that the charging is made for 5volts
But I'm interested in pinout of this connector on back side of XDA. I place a picture witch one I mean.
I check the voltage of this conector and I checked it on picture. When I connect charger, voltage rise to 3,97V, so I think 3,6V battery should be ok. But I'm not sure about connection.
dont have an xda1 anymore so i'm not sure which connector you are talking about
i'm talking about the buttom connector
are you talking about some connector externaly ?
or inside the xda ?
I'm not talking about bottom connector.
In XDA1 there is a connector on back side, and I thing it's specially for exernal battery. It's coverd with rubber casing.
Maybe someone who got this external batt could check voltage on pins.
At last I could open my XDA and check everything, but every settings will be lost.
maybe you could ask in the Wallaby accessories forum
more people who are likely to own such a device would maybe read that ?
Thanks for reply . I'll do that
External battery
I have an XDA1 with an additional external battery
I have nothing to check the external power from the 4different connectors.
What it says on the sticker of the battery is 3.7 VDC, 1500 mAh. Not sure that helps.
I'll try to look for someone to check the power from the battery. I know no one really! I'll let you know as soon as I can find someone, but it could be weeks!!!
Thanks. It would help me a lot.
I think 3 pins are needed. One of them sould be termistor, other are VCC and GND. But I need to be sure before I connect that battery.
I have checked some how it's connected to internal battery. It seems to be connected paralel to internal battery.
I try co connect nokia batery to + and - (as on the picture), and it was not detected by XDA, but I think voltage rise. I will wait until my internal battery got low and then checked again.
I don't know what is one pin for. Maybe it's for detection for external batt? maybe when I connect my external batt, it will be detected by bootloader and in tests it would show me voltage.
I forgot aboute picture
if you go to www.allelectroncis.com , they have a palm 3.7 v 1400 mah battery for about $7. It might be better than the nokia battery???
my wizard battery won't charge.
i have tried another battery and another rom with no change.
wehn i plug in the sync cord, the izard reognizes that it is on external power but just won't charge the battery.
any ideas.
thanks
...try to find out, by measuring, if the ±5Volt DC is present on the pins on the inside of the ppc which is needed to charge the battery. Probably your charging circuit is busted and the ppc should brought back for repairs...
thanks for the response
what is ppc
where do i measure the voltage.
when i first connect the sync cable, it starts to charge for one or two seconds and then stops and reverts to a normal non charging screen.
thanks
PPC stands for Pocket PC
What you speak of, I had the same problem on my wizard.
My battery finally died and I couldnt re-vive my phone.
I bought a new battery off of ebay, put it in, plugged it into the charger that came with my phone, let it charge overnight and I havent had a charging problem yet.
My advice, as well as alot of others on this board, dont use any other charger other than the one that the phone came with. I know I wont be.
...inside your ppc,when you remove your battery, you'll see different connection pins which are normally connected to the battery. With power attached (and without battery) you measure between 2 pins at a time. WATCH OUT for shortcircuiting, be careful!!!. You can use an analog or digital voltagemeter. I don't know which pins, so you have to try it yourself.
You should measure ±5 Volt DC which's delivered by your adapter. If there's no power then your charging circuit is defect and you'll have to let it repair...
reading about a volt on the internal pins that connect to the battery.
so it's the charging circuit.
damn
I had the same problem twice with 2 different batteries. it seems if the batterie dies completely, the device can not recharge itself. something like a car, you need to have enough juice to start the car so you can recharge the battery.
I took 2 paper clips that i used to connect the charger directly to the battery( bypassing the phone). you need to be careful with that, make sure you connect the right battery pins. I left my battery like this for 15min, just enough to have aniough power to start the phone and continue the charging process regularly.
As mlarif said the battery can fail to charge if totally discharged. So if you are not absolutely certain your circuit is faulty there are at least two threads here describing how to butcher a usb cable to jump start the battery.
Sorry I can't remember the colours of the wires off the top of my head. But a search may find the relavent posts.
...you can also use a 9 VDC battery to give the ppc batteries a boost for a few seconds. But indeed be sure to use the right pins
(btw did you measure any VDC on the batteries..?)
Hi there!
Does anyone know of a way to operate the Universal solely on A/C power when there is no battery inserted?
I often use my universal as a WLAN media player in the kitchen. It just sits there for hours playing music and I would like to remove the battery from it during this time to extend overall battery life.
Unfortunately the device does not turn on when there is no battery inserted.
This should be fairly easy, if I understood well, you don't want to let the battery in the universal (even if normally the battery chargers apply a tickle current charge when the batteries are already charged to mantain it fully charged), so you just need to connect your power supply directly to the uni's battery contacts -BEWARE the power supply MUST be 3.7V REGULATED / 1A minimum current-.
Personally, I do not like to change the way the objects are, so I would try to keep it like this in this case, this means, no extra holes in my PDA, no extra connectors, etc. so you need a pair of mini alligators clips or miniclips to connect your unit to the power supply, be sure to verify the correct polarity, it's clearly written in the battery's contacts.
Alternatively, there should be a way of doing this by using the uni's own battery charger through it's own mini USB connector, it's necessary to cheat the PDA and let him "think" he's got the battery inserted, this should be fairly easy to do also, but I'm out of my work, so I could provide a complete solution like this until late april.
bye
downloadtest82 said:
Unfortunately the device does not turn on when there is no battery inserted.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Why don't you use an old battery?
I use this way in this particolar circumstances!
Why don't you use an old battery?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That's what I used to do, unfortunately the old battery I have is so worn down by now it won't even support the boot process any more, and the A/C power regulator kicks in only after basic I/O drivers are loaded on the device.
Since the old battery dies before this process completes I can't use that any more.
I don't believe the Universal's "battery detection circuits" are all that complex, in most modern electronic devices they can be fooled by simply bridging some of the connectors in the battery bay.
I don't know if this is true for this device also, however. So I was wondering if anyone else ever tried before I toast my PDA...
downloadtest82 said:
Since the old battery dies before this process completes I can't use that any more.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Oh.. I understand.. Sorry..
Well: be careful if you try to solve in other way..
So i have this original n7100 battery that i want to find a use for, and my gf has a low budget samsung phone(and i have a spare charger for her phone) that is always out of battery, and i was thinking if i could just cut the cord of the charger and connect to the spare battery, the output of the charger is 4.75v 0.55A, the spare battery is 3.8v 3.8A, her phone battery is 3.7v and 0.7A
Is it possible or would it be easyer to just mod her phone to use the spare battery to act as the main power source? Then would it be possible to get a transistor to act as battery switcher so she could just unplug the spare battery (i would just create a connection port on her phone)
Saturday night and i can't go out so i really need a project
n7100
kubbur87 said:
So i have this original n7100 battery that i want to find a use for, and my gf has a low budget samsung phone(and i have a spare charger for her phone) that is always out of battery, and i was thinking if i could just cut the cord of the charger and connect to the spare battery, the output of the charger is 4.75v 0.55A, the spare battery is 3.8v 3.8A, her phone battery is 3.7v and 0.7A
Is it possible or would it be easyer to just mod her phone to use the spare battery to act as the main power source? Then would it be possible to get a transistor to act as battery switcher so she could just unplug the spare battery (i would just create a connection port on her phone)
Saturday night and i can't go out so i really need a project
n7100
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
sory, that text is a little bit confusing for me, but you have to check correct volateg and amparage, lowering voltage and amp, is easy, the reverse is a little harder.
try this way
hi,
use otg adapter and connect to the note. then take charge/data cable and connect the cable to the adapter and the other end with yours girlfriend phone. under 5V there is no worry. maybe you unplugg your phone and there ´s still the charge sign. then u have to restart your phone. but i dont think that will happen.
cheers
:laugh: Maybe Your Rom make Pin drain so fast
kubbur87 said:
Is it possible or would it be easyer to just mod her phone to use the spare battery to act as the main power source? Then would it be possible to get a transistor to act as battery switcher so she could just unplug the spare battery (i would just create a connection port on her phone)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes, this is entirely possible. But you're not going to find someone who can say how much work it will be to make it happen unless they've done it themselves. These lithium batteries need control circuitry to charge and discharge correctly. I'd try to use the battery to drive something else (like an LED and resistor) first to see if you can get it to work. If there's not built-in circuitry to prevent that, it my work for the phone too.
Can someone verify that the Nexus 7 can operates perfectly fine with the battery removed and only powered by the USB cable? I've read some threads eluding to this, but no one has confirmed. Mine is in the dash of my car so i cant verify this myself. If someone can. that would be amazing! Thank you.
look at the thread right below yours.
Old Guy said:
look at the thread right below yours.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I saw that thread, i was still a bit confused as they were talking about USB DAC and other devices hooked up to me.
I want to make sure data can still be transferred from the same USB cable and such.
Yes, it's possible, but has some side-effects
Yes, it's possible to power the Nexus 7 without battery from a USB-cable, but it involves sending power directly to the battery connection inside the Nexus 7, and it seems to have some side-effects.
The battery is a one-cell lithium polymer, which has a max charge of 4.23 V. I hoped the Nexus wouldn't fry when connecting 5 V, and it has worked fine the few minutes I've tested it. No smell of burnt electronics
Here is what I did:
Tear off the tape around the battery cable. You'll see it's soldered to a pcb-board, and the two black and two red wires are soldered together. The two wires in the middle is probably some kind of data-connection to the battery. Will investigate this further later.
Then I soldered loose the cables, so I could use the battery-connector, and soldered both red and black wires to red and black wires in a USB-cable. Drilled a hole in the back-cover right below the NFC-antenna. The back-cover is filled with all sorts of antennas, so scratch carefully with a knife before drilling. Attached some pictures of the process.
Side-effects I've noticed so far:
- It thinks the battery is at 0% and not charging.
- The clock is reset when you turn off the power. But if you have internet it will update from NTP within a minute or so.
- My computer (OS X) can't detect it anymore. So I suspect it doesn't work in USB device-mode anymore, but I'm able to connect a USB-keyboard with an OTG-cable, so it seems to work in host-mode.
Does anyone else have any experience with this, or any ideas why it doesn't work in device-mode? I'm considering adding a small connector so I can use the two extra wires from the battery to the data-wires of the USB-cable (and disconnect when not in use), and then solder a USB female cable to the original battery. That way I can (hopefully) connect the Nexus 7 to my computer when needed, and possibly analyze what the two extra wires is actually used for.
I have CM for Android 4.2, and Timur's USB-rom, but it's probably not needed for this hack, and I will probably install a stock rom if I get this working properly.
Be careful, and don't blame me if you fry your Nexus (or anything else). Be sure to turn off any fast-charge hacks when the battery is disconnected.
Old Guy - look at the thread right below yours
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Click to collapse
Threads are sorted by last post in each thread, so it's impossible to find which one you are referring to. Do you have an url?
Theory worked
I managed to connect the Nexus 7 to my computer again
I'm considering adding a small connector so I can use the two extra wires from the battery to the data-wires of the USB-cable (and disconnect when not in use), and then solder a USB female cable to the original battery. That way I can (hopefully) connect the Nexus 7 to my computer when needed, and possibly analyze what the two extra wires is actually used for.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Can confirm that this works. I didn't have any small connectors, so I hot-glued one header-pin and a female connector for a header pin on the data-wires in the USB-cable. Doesn't look good, but it works
When I have it in the car, I disconnect the header-pins on the USB-cable, and connect it to an USB power-source. When I need to connect it to the computer, I connect the header-pins and connect the battery (with the female USB-cable), and a regular USB-cable to the computer.
Sorry to bring up an older thread, but it sounds like the White and Yellow wires of the battery are for data?
if so, if I applied 3.7-4.2 volts on the battery connection and then still had a 5v connection on the USB would this work?
I would like to use Timur's ROM, and have power applied when my car is off (fixed install) for deep sleep and then apply the 5v when the car is on to bring it from the deep sleep. the issues would be faking it to not charge which I am guessing would mean to set the battery input to 4.23 volts to show as being fully charged. then when key on, the 5v would take over and you would still have the 4.23 applied at the battery connection ( probably have a diode on the + side to keep from injecting voltage to that supply
Has any one completed something like this?
The problematic usb port finally gave up on my Nexus 7 (2012). I've opened up it up, connected the black and red wires from a cut usb cable to the 1st and 4th pogo pins without removing the battery. Now charging's fast and stable..
Added: Tried 5v2a charging, it doesn't melt anything.. Fully charged in just slightly over1 hour.
This thread has been great help and a motivator for wiring my Nexus 7 to do a (permanent) dash install.
I've just removed the battery and wired it to a Pico-Box X5-ATX-180 carputer PSU with an adjustable voltage converter in-between to get around 3.9 volts to the tablet. Works great, but I found another drawback.
Like mentioned in a post before me, the battery status will show 0% which I thought wouldn't be too big of a problem. However, at the moment there is an Android update (4.4.3) available and when I try to update it first tells that the battery is too low and that I should connect a charger. So I did, but then it tells me too "wait for the battery to charge sufficiently".
So for anyone reading this wanting to do the same, know that you won't be able to update Android without a battery connected.
I have attached a photo of the tablet running without a battery for those interested.
Rutjes said:
This thread has been great help and a motivator for wiring my Nexus 7 to do a (permanent) dash install.
I've just removed the battery and wired it to a Pico-Box X5-ATX-180 carputer PSU with an adjustable voltage converter in-between to get around 3.9 volts to the tablet. Works great, but I found another drawback.
Like mentioned in a post before me, the battery status will show 0% which I thought wouldn't be too big of a problem. However, at the moment there is an Android update (4.4.3) available and when I try to update it first tells that the battery is too low and that I should connect a charger. So I did, but then it tells me too "wait for the battery to charge sufficiently".
So for anyone reading this wanting to do the same, know that you won't be able to update Android without a battery connected.
I have attached a photo of the tablet running without a battery for those interested.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You could use the factory image to update your nexus 7. It's just a bit more work.
Rutjes said:
This thread has been great help and a motivator for wiring my Nexus 7 to do a (permanent) dash install.
I've just removed the battery and wired it to a Pico-Box X5-ATX-180 carputer PSU with an adjustable voltage converter in-between to get around 3.9 volts to the tablet. Works great, but I found another drawback.
Like mentioned in a post before me, the battery status will show 0% which I thought wouldn't be too big of a problem. However, at the moment there is an Android update (4.4.3) available and when I try to update it first tells that the battery is too low and that I should connect a charger. So I did, but then it tells me too "wait for the battery to charge sufficiently".
So for anyone reading this wanting to do the same, know that you won't be able to update Android without a battery connected.
I have attached a photo of the tablet running without a battery for those interested.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
What did you use to get the voltage down to 3.9 volts?
the exact thread I've been searching for.
Just completed by initial installation and now troubleshooting various problems.
The biggest being this battery scenario. So from what I've read in this thread is to use a DC-DC power switcher PICO for carputers and run that to the battery leads. How is the boot time though?
I've read that with a low battery, the kernal during bootup takes longer for checks to occur?
I have an idea.....:
If we can switch 12VDC to 5VDC during switched (Key On Accesory) with a regulator.....
we should be able to do the same with a sepearate regulator to switch 12VDC to5VDC during constant (Key off) when the switch voltage is lost.
This would retain the time you mentioned gets lost. Also, how much mAh (current) do you get out of that PICO regulator to the battery leads? The TIMUR kernal for FI-mode wants 1800mAh at least. Currently I'm using a cigarette lighter DC-DC adapter that has 2 ports. (2.1A, and 1A). The Nexus 7 is currently connected to the 2.1A and my HUB is connected to the 1A.
any advice?
Thanks
rezmax said:
Just completed by initial installation and now troubleshooting various problems.
The biggest being this battery scenario. So from what I've read in this thread is to use a DC-DC power switcher PICO for carputers and run that to the battery leads. How is the boot time though?
I've read that with a low battery, the kernal during bootup takes longer for checks to occur?
I have an idea.....:
If we can switch 12VDC to 5VDC during switched (Key On Accesory) with a regulator.....
we should be able to do the same with a sepearate regulator to switch 12VDC to5VDC during constant (Key off) when the switch voltage is lost.
This would retain the time you mentioned gets lost. Also, how much mAh (current) do you get out of that PICO regulator to the battery leads? The TIMUR kernal for FI-mode wants 1800mAh at least. Currently I'm using a cigarette lighter DC-DC adapter that has 2 ports. (2.1A, and 1A). The Nexus 7 is currently connected to the 2.1A and my HUB is connected to the 1A.
any advice?
Thanks
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Why go through all the trouble? Just snip off any USB cable and connect to the pogo pins.. This way, you can charge at pogo's speed with any wall charger and still bring your tablet anywhere.
Hi guys just wanted to report i used your trick on my nexus 7 and it worked perfectly!
I used this method to check if the problem was the battery or if the screen was dead and it turned out to be the battery!
Now i have another battery on the way from Ebay.
Thanks again good job!
Hi guys me again,
I want to update the software but it wont let me because battery is on 1% for ever.
BUT i was wondering, what would happend if i simultaneously plug in the mini usb to another usb charger?
would that create some sort of an insane weird circut and burn my tablet?
any thoughts?
thanks!
Im thinking to use the Nexus 7 in car without the original battery. Constant 4.2V from car battery via converter to nexus battery pins and using the usb with ignition to switch the tablet between sleep and normal state. One thing i would want to reuse is the temperature sensor in the Li-ion pack. Has anyone some idea if the two extra wires are directly connected to temp sensor or there is a circuit for it on the battery controller? If so how it could be reproduced so i could use this to monitor the temp in car for example or if anyone knows any usb dongles that i could use for monitoring external temp with android.
So now i hav tryed the nexus without the battery aswell. At first i applyed 5v directly to the little black battery connector. tablet worked but showed 0%. Then tryed desoldering the batteryback from the little circuit and applyed 5v to the actual battery connectors on the circuit. It shows 100% battery and works and also the temperature sensor is working. One issue is that i need to plug in the charger before connecting the circuit to the motherboard, maybe the charger im using is just too weak that cant get the voltage up or something. And another thing is that i left it plugged in for the night and now the percentage goes down slowly as it would be discharging. havent figured out why that is. Maybe someone has tackled this before also?
freakadell said:
So now i hav tryed the nexus without the battery aswell. At first i applyed 5v directly to the little black battery connector. tablet worked but showed 0%. Then tryed desoldering the batteryback from the little circuit and applyed 5v to the actual battery connectors on the circuit. It shows 100% battery and works and also the temperature sensor is working. One issue is that i need to plug in the charger before connecting the circuit to the motherboard, maybe the charger im using is just too weak that cant get the voltage up or something. And another thing is that i left it plugged in for the night and now the percentage goes down slowly as it would be discharging. havent figured out why that is. Maybe someone has tackled this before also?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You supplied power to the protection circuit? I'm surprised that worked.
The battery is probably going down because the protection circuit is designed to prevent over and under voltage. Since you're feeding it 5V and a lithium battery is supposed to max out at about 4.2V it must be trying to lower the voltage somehow. The percentage going down is probably nothing to worry about, but I'd strongly recommend connecting to the battery connector instead, and only connecting it like this when you need to have a certain percentage to do a system update etc. Also be careful with the bare battery, if the two pins short it could catch fire.
Hi i tried that works ,however it doesn't boot when powered i have to turn it on pressing power button,any idea why?
As a car dash its pretty useless now
Just a quick message that I have managed to power my nexus 7 2012 from a USB cable connected to the circuit board that was attached to my dead battery. Battery level indicator is permanently at 100%.
Sort of like the above it involves using the battery circuit board but it is disconnected from the battery.
Step 1: Strip back battery wrapping revealing the board attached to the connector cables (that connects to Nexus 7)
Step 2: Cut the metal strips going from the circuit board to the actual battery part
Step 3: Solder USB cable Positive wire to board pad labelled VP and Negative to pad VG(? not 100% on last one, but it's the other pad)
Step 4: Solder short wire from VP pad to other side of the board onto the ++ pad (that goes to the red wires then connector)
Step 5: Wrap board up with elec/other tape to avoid shorts
Step 6: Connect up and power on
Not sure why the last wire is needed but it didn't work for me without it.
Next step for me is to wire it to the onboard micro-usb
Where is the ++ pad ??
dribbleboy said:
Step 4: Solder short wire from VP pad to other side of the board onto the ++ pad (that goes to the red wires then connector)
Not sure why the last wire is needed but it didn't work for me without it.
Next step for me is to wire it to the onboard micro-usb
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Where is the ++ pad mentioned in step 4 ? Can you post some pictures ?