Database Users

How to set Legend to not charge while it is connected to USB port?

Hi, do you have any workaround how to set my Legend to not charge the battery while it is connected to PC's USB port?
When I want only to transfer some files to SD card and plug the device into USB, it starts to charge. It is very important for me because it continuously damages battery if this happens several times only for some minutes. In Windows mobile there is a great option to not charge when device is connected to USB. I hope there is an option to do this also on android.

pe3ksve3k2 said:
Hi, do you have any workaround how to set my Legend to not charge the battery while it is connected to PC's USB port?
When I want only to transfer some files to SD card and plug the device into USB, it starts to charge. It is very important for me because it continuously damages battery if this happens several times only for some minutes. In Windows mobile there is a great option to not charge when device is connected to USB. I hope there is an option to do this also on android.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'm pretty sure the batteries today doesn't take any harm of this type of charing. Correct me if i'm wrong

arxx said:
I'm pretty sure the batteries today doesn't take any harm of this type of charing. Correct me if i'm wrong
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hmm, on the hand way I am pretty sure that it harms the battery ... 1minute chargings are not good for battery...

I am also certain it DOSEN't damage the batteries...
However.. There are several reasons to disable charging when connection to a PC.
For instance, using a USB hub without additional powers, the drain the phone will put on the hub, will make the rest of the stuff connected to it stop working.
Or simply just to preserve the batteries when using a laptop. The batteries on laptop is bad enough as it is, so no need to put more drain on them...
Interessting reading:
www!batteryuniversity!com/partone-12!htm
*replace ! with .

Lithium-based batteries (like those used in basically every single mobile phone now) love to be topped up constantly. In fact, they suffer permanent damage to the lifetime of the battery if they are ever empty. Don't worry about charging them for a few seconds are a few hours, as long as you don't let them go flat.
Lithium batteries will only work best for a few years from the day they are manufactured (not their sale date, by the way). You'll notice if you have an old mobile phone or iPod that they'll start to run low faster and faster the older they get. This is just a consequence of the chemicals they are made of. It's also why some people refuse to buy Lithium-powered devices that don't make it easy to replace the battery (like iPods, for example).
Also, Lithium batteries don't hold their full capacity right away. They have to be charged for 300% of their capacity for them to be running at peak, although you do not need to do this all at once. This is why some devices come with advice that you discharge them completely a few times right at the beginning. I never do this, because as I advised earlier you do not want to let them go flat. Instead, I charge it up to 100%, use the device down to 50%, charge back to 100%, over and over, since each of those charging sessions contributes to the total 300% necessary.
Nickel-Cadmium batteries were the old sort of rechargeable batteries used in other sorts of devices (toys, remote controls, etc). The best care advice for them is to leave them in the charger until they are needed, and use them until they are completely flat before charging again.

Can I use G1 without a battery (AC only)?

Is it possible to turn on the device without the battery in and only the AC mini usb power connector?
I'm modding it into my car for a dedicated media player and have no use for the 1150mAh battery.
I have tried and it doesn't turn on.
Anyone know of a hack?

No it doesnt turn on. A quick thought since I was playing around. The full charge voltage (with no load) for the battery is around 4.1 volts. Its the same voltage which comes to the terminals when connected to power source. So ideally placing a electrolytic capacitor of sufficient capacity might 'behave' like a charged battery triggering the phone to power on. On the other side, the center sensing terminal might still require to send some signal. Some phones dont use this and some use it.
I dont know how the G1 behaves, but if you have a old battery, may be you can take the sensing circuit out of it and instead of LiIon battery terminals replace with a capacitor.
Theoretically this should work, I've not tested though, just a quick thought on how we might achive this. You have to try it out.
Good luck!

Using a capacitor is a very interesting idea, I will try it and let you know.
I have a bunch of 100uf's lying around, probably need bigger though you think?

I think it will be far more than enough due to the very low power requirement for the device. I would think even a 47mfd will be enough. Though if you have 100 lying around. may be try with it.

[Q] dead battery help!

Hi guys, in need of a bit of help here.
right, having not realised what i had done, i pulled the battery whilst on charge before i pulled the charger. my current situation is that now the phone is stuck on the loading bit. the version of android i have comes up with "droid" then goes to a red eye like thingy whilst loading. it keeps looping that screen over and over.
after a quick search i saw my problem could have been bent battery connector pins, but alas they are fine.
after another search i reasised what i had done (or at least what i think i have done). would i be right in thinking that the battery now does not have enough power to boot android and get to a point where it can charge the battery?
having seen the threads on here about using a USB lead to manually charge the battery i am at my wits end. i tried the USB fix and it didnt work.
i have now found this thread: http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=978101
and am currently attempting to charge my phone using the "USB mass storage" setting on MAGLDR (v1.13 btw) but the bit that im wondering is the bit that says "you will NOT get a charging indicator in this mode"
does any one know for sure whether this is true? i am hoping that the thread is correct my only doubt has arisen due to the fact that the thread was based on a HD2 running WP7.
thanks in advance for any help
Ben

Try to measure voltage at pin +/- on battery. If there is more than 3,6V battery is able to boot up the phone if voltage is belov 3V it's bad. If You have an adjustable (for laboratory use) voltage source, connect it to pins of phone vhere normally must be connected +/- leads of battery (carefully check polarity), give it 3,7V and try to load the bootloaderon the phone (hold Vol.Down butt and power button together). If it doesn't work, you may have ruined the bootloader.

I read some of the thread you linked. There is something that I think the OP of that thread and a whole lot of people using MAGLDR do not understand. I qoute this straight from the OP of the MAGLDR thread.
*Fixed Power-Off-Cable-Plug-Stop. Phone now detects this situation and reboots. Battery controller inside LEO needs runtime control during charge, it implemented in OS.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You have to have a functional OS installed for you to even be able to charge your battery using your HD2 when you have MAGLDR installed on your HD2. The simple fact that the OP of that thred has a WP7 ROM installed on their HD2 is the only reason option #4 USB Mass Stg even will slightly charge the battery, if it was no ROM on the phone, just MAGLDR, it will not charge at all just as when you are in bootloader and the USB connected it will not charge no matter if you have a ROM on the phone or not. I personally think the slight charge you get by using option #4 USB Mass Stg in MAGLDR is purely accidental and only a small amount of voltage as it takes so long to get any kind of substantial charge. Also if you have a completly dead battery you can not even boot into MAGLDR to try to charge using opyion #4 of MAGLDR.
I am a electrician and have been for a little over 15 years and in my oppinion if you have a dead battery and you are running Android from NAND or a WP7 ROM using MAGLDR. Your best bet is to use.
A: A external charging cradle.
B: Another HD2 that is running Win Mo.
C: Using a modified USN cable to get enough charge to boot into your ROM
Note: The last option I listed is only in a emergency situation as I do not advice you use this as a everyday charging technic. Also only long enough to boot your phone so you can finish charging normally. If you do use this option maintain a constant watch of the battery to insure it does not start to become warm, and only use your wall charger when using this method. The voltage is very low that the wall charger sends though the witres so there is no danger of shock.

Do You mean that when HD2 is POWER OFF state it doesn't charge battery? Even from wall charger? Mine does charging pretty well when turned OFF...
All phones I repaired or dizassembled had hardware automatic for charging battery, not depending of ROM or OS at all, it must have only 5V at charger inlet (USB or dedicated charger port i.e. for NOKIA), I doubt if HTC gone other way that all other developers
C: Using a modified USN cable to get enough charge to boot into your ROM
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Can You tell me more about this cable? Any schematics?

pvii said:
Do You mean that when HD2 is POWER OFF state it doesn't charge battery? Even from wall charger? Mine does charging pretty well when turned OFF...
All phones I repaired or dizassembled had hardware automatic for charging battery, not depending of ROM or OS at all, it must have only 5V at charger inlet (USB or dedicated charger port i.e. for NOKIA), I doubt if HTC gone other way that all other developers
Can You tell me more about this cable? Any schematics?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes a HD2 can charge in a powered off state if you are still running a Windows Mobile ROM on it. If you have flashed MAGLDR to your HD2 you will not be able to charge your HD2 until you flash a Android or WP7 ROM to it as the charging is to quote the OP of the MAGLDR thread again, "Battery controller inside LEO needs runtime control during charge, it implemented in OS."
As for as a schematic no real need for a schematic. You take and cut the end off of a USB cable, the end you leave on needs to bt a standard USB male end. Next you strip back the outer insulation and the inner foil layer, then strip a little off the ends of the black and red wires. Finally connect the red wire to the positive terminal of the battery (marked on the battery), and connect the black wire to the negative terminal on the battery (marked on battery) and plug the USB male end of the cable into your wall charger, not any other power source. Yopui can use some tape to keep the ends connected to the battery.

T-Macgnolia said:
As for as a schematic no real need for a schematic. You take and cut the end off of a USB cable, the end you leave on needs to bt a standard USB male end. Next you strip back the outer insulation and the inner foil layer, then strip a little off the ends of the black and red wires. Finally connect the red wire to the positive terminal of the battery (marked on the battery), and connect the black wire to the negative terminal on the battery (marked on battery) and plug the USB male end of the cable into your wall charger, not any other power source. Yopui can use some tape to keep the ends connected to the battery.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You tried this even one time???
NEVER DO THAT, YOU WILL RUIN YOUR Li-ION BATTERY!!!!
Li-ION charges at no more that 4,2V, internal protection circuit will shut it off if you get it to 5V charger directly and if this protection accidentally will not work your battery blows up! 5V must be applied to USB port ONLY if you want your battery and phone alive

unfortunately i dont have a way of measuring the voltage of the battery, i have now just bitten the bullet and ordered another battery and an external charger. that way if the battery i have now is dead i have a replacment and if it just needs charging then ill have two batteries. having tried the USB cable charging bodge and it not work im thinking i have killed the battery. i use LiPo batteries in my airsoft stuff so i know that they can die if not treated properly. my own silly fault i guess haha.
ill update tomorrow once the charger and battery have arrived.
what do you guys think will be wrong with it if a new full charged battery doesnt work?

airsoft_ben_1989 said:
unfortunately i dont have a way of measuring the voltage of the battery, i have now just bitten the bullet and ordered another battery and an external charger. that way if the battery i have now is dead i have a replacment and if it just needs charging then ill have two batteries. having tried the USB cable charging bodge and it not work im thinking i have killed the battery. i use LiPo batteries in my airsoft stuff so i know that they can die if not treated properly. my own silly fault i guess haha.
ill update tomorrow once the charger and battery have arrived.
what do you guys think will be wrong with it if a new full charged battery doesnt work?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
If your new battery wont work than you probably may have a dead charging circuitry on your mainboard (sudden death when removing a battery during charging process) and if that circuit works only under OS control, IMHO your mainboard is useless too. Have to be replaced or repaired.

fair enough, thanks mate. fingers crossed for tomorrow the hehe

pvii said:
You tried this even one time???
NEVER DO THAT, YOU WILL RUIN YOUR Li-ION BATTERY!!!!
Li-ION charges at no more that 4,2V, internal protection circuit will shut it off if you get it to 5V charger directly and if this protection accidentally will not work your battery blows up! 5V must be applied to USB port ONLY if you want your battery and phone alive
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have not personally tried charging a my battery this way bit I know several people on her that have and it does charge the battery. If it did not work for the OP of this thread than they either did not have a good connection between the wires or the battery is not chargeable anymore.
Look at your wall charger it should say on your wall charger that the output is 5.0 v or 5.1 v. This is pretty much a standard on all wall chargers for phones as they all require the same voltage. Yes there is a protection system that monitors the charging voltage and if you use the modified cable to charge you do not have this protection system. But your wall charger unless the small transformer in the actual plug part that is the charger malfunctions will only put out 5v, actually it will probably be more like 3.5v as the 5v is Max output capacity. Also if the transformer malfunctions it is just going to melt down and not put out a charge what so ever, it will not cause a spike in voltage. Trust me on this one, my job requers I have a full understanding of transformers be it a big one are a little one as I have to work with them all of the time. But I did put my warning in there for a reason as this can kill the battery where it can no longer charge, and even though it is menamal it is a small risk of the battery exploding, but it is a very small risk.

pvii said:
You tried this even one time???
NEVER DO THAT, YOU WILL RUIN YOUR Li-ION BATTERY!!!!
Li-ION charges at no more that 4,2V, internal protection circuit will shut it off if you get it to 5V charger directly and if this protection accidentally will not work your battery blows up! 5V must be applied to USB port ONLY if you want your battery and phone alive
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Just for info I've done this twice, once thru wall once thru usb slot. It only needs about 45 seconds to get enough charge to start booting, and charging starts about halfway through the boot.
you are right that it isn't recommended, of course, but then most of what goes on on this site isn't recommended for a healthy phone

T-Macgnolia said:
I have not personally tried charging a my battery this way bit I know several people on her that have and it does charge the battery. If it did not work for the OP of this thread than they either did not have a good connection between the wires or the battery is not chargeable anymore.
Look at your wall charger it should say on your wall charger that the output is 5.0 v or 5.1 v. This is pretty much a standard on all wall chargers for phones as they all require the same voltage. Yes there is a protection system that monitors the charging voltage and if you use the modified cable to charge you do not have this protection system. But your wall charger unless the small transformer in the actual plug part that is the charger malfunctions will only put out 5v, actually it will probably be more like 3.5v as the 5v is Max output capacity. Also if the transformer malfunctions it is just going to melt down and not put out a charge what so ever, it will not cause a spike in voltage. Trust me on this one, my job requers I have a full understanding of transformers be it a big one are a little one as I have to work with them all of the time. But I did put my warning in there for a reason as this can kill the battery where it can no longer charge, and even though it is menamal it is a small risk of the battery exploding, but it is a very small risk.
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Click to collapse
Man, I do not intend to start a holy-war about it
It's a little off-topic, but seems that you do not have idea how these power stage of mobile devises works (from wall outlet to battery), all mobile devices are very similar in this aspect, simply google what is Li-Ion battery advisor, how it works and rules of charging Li-ion batteries, there are a huge bunch of forums specially dedicated to this theme...

pvii said:
Man, I do not intend to start a holy-war about it
It's a little off-topic, but seems that you do not have idea how these power stage of mobile devises works (from wall outlet to battery), all mobile devices are very similar in this aspect, simply google what is Li-Ion battery advisor, how it works and rules of charging Li-ion batteries, there are a huge bunch of forums specially dedicated to this theme...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Ok first of I am not madd by no means, and no it is not off topic as people need to be able to know these things. As I have seen in a couple of XDA members signatures "I am learning from you, and you are learning from me."
I Googled the Li-Ion battery advisor and found the PDF I think you were talking about as it was the first two links Google pulled up. But I have to tell you what is discussed in that PDF is on Li-ion batteries for vehicles not cell phones. Those batteries are much large and there for data in that PDF can not necessarily by applied to cell phone LI-ion batteries, unless you care to educate me further.
Like I said I have been a electrician for going on 15 years now, I know how to read electrical schematics, I know how electricity flows, I know about positive and negative charges, I know a lot I will just put it that way. If you have further links YOU would like me to check out I will be glad to. But from my prospective what I mentioned as a emergency charging method is no more dangerous than shaving with a disposable razor.

right so the new battery doesnt work, charged it in the external charger and nothing. same as before just looping on the Droid boot up screen.
would it be worth flashing back to WM6.5 as a last resort?

airsoft_ben_1989 said:
right so the new battery doesnt work, charged it in the external charger and nothing. same as before just looping on the Droid boot up screen.
would it be worth flashing back to WM6.5 as a last resort?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Any photos of boot screen?
Try to flash back to older official WM ROM with regular SPL (flash from SD card not thru PC sink), else HSPL and that custom bot manager wont be erased from NAND. May be it will help You, I used this method when my touch stopped responding and it was a solution for me.

pvii said:
Any photos of boot screen?
Try to flash back to older official WM ROM with regular SPL (flash from SD card not thru PC sink), else HSPL and that custom bot manager wont be erased from NAND. May be it will help You, I used this method when my touch stopped responding and it was a solution for me.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You are correct to tell the OP to flash via SD card or they would still have HSPL. but the custum boot manager as you called it is actually a custom bootloader. And if you flash a Windows Mobile ROM be it custom or official through RUU or SD card it is gone. MAGLDR or cLK bootloader run in sesession of the original bootloader meanning you never lose the original boot loader( if you did you would have a bricked phone) and that it is not in the same partition of the NAND memory as the original bootloader. MAGLDR, CLK, AND CWM are in the same partition as the OS, therefore when you flash back to a Win Mo ROM you lose them.
HSPL would not have anything to do with the OP's problem as it is part of the original bootloader and the two main purposes for HSPL is to one beablecto flash a official ROM that is not meant for your HD2 without having to use a gold card, and to disable the CID check so you can flash custom firmware.
At the OP have you had a look at your battery pins to make sure they are all in properly aligned with each other and that one is not bent?

[Q] Droid X Battery Hard wire to car.

Hello,
this is a bit of a custom job. I want to take my Droidx and make it a dedicated display in my car. My issues are the battery is shot and buying another is more investment than I prefer. also the battery is not going to work for what i'm doing because it will not be on charge as frequently as it need to get a full charge.
so here is what i want to do. I want to hard wire the battery terminals to a 3.7 vdc source and use that as the primary power to the phone. and use the usb power to wake it on entry and while the ignition is on. right now i've got the usb cord without the battery and it works fine. but I wanted to maybe use the battery/usb to wake it. Anyone able to power the phone on the terminals for the battery?
Thanks
-xpbr2000

xpbr2000 said:
Hello,
this is a bit of a custom job. I want to take my Droidx and make it a dedicated display in my car. My issues are the battery is shot and buying another is more investment than I prefer. also the battery is not going to work for what i'm doing because it will not be on charge as frequently as it need to get a full charge.
so here is what i want to do. I want to hard wire the battery terminals to a 3.7 vdc source and use that as the primary power to the phone. and use the usb power to wake it on entry and while the ignition is on. right now i've got the usb cord without the battery and it works fine. but I wanted to maybe use the battery/usb to wake it. Anyone able to power the phone on the terminals for the battery?
Thanks
-xpbr2000
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The phone works without a battery. Maybe bypass it and connect to USB?
Sent from my SCH-I605 using xda premium

You'll need to have a battery or something to keep it from just turning off when you turn off the car, won't you? I looked into doing something like that with the RasPi, and I you're not supposed to just remove the power supply.
Or can you wire it to wear it has power when the car isn't running?

sghsmorgan said:
You'll need to have a battery or something to keep it from just turning off when you turn off the car, won't you? I looked into doing something like that with the RasPi, and I you're not supposed to just remove the power supply.
Or can you wire it to wear it has power when the car isn't running?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
if i could figure out what the battery supplies the phone then i could wire a 3.7v source to the battery terminals on the phone.
I've had this system wired up for a couple months and it works great. the only issue i've had is the age of this battery makes it not take a charge. so in the heat of the day i get in the car and the battery temp is 100+ the phone is dead because the battery doesn't operate. and the charger can't charge the hot battery and keep the phone powered. I never liked the idea of a battery inside the car. heat + battery = boom (maybe not but it could cause a big mess and damage the phone.
the question i need answered is what is required for the phone to run? what do each of the battery terminals do? obviously one is ground (marked) and one is positive (also marked) the middle terminal has to do with a temp or charge signal. it doesn't power on just the positive and negative to the best i can test it. maybe i'm doing it wrong.

and i have looked at a rasPI. we have one. but i can find a capacitive touch screen that is small enough to fit in my dash (4th gen camaro) without deleting my radio which isn't going to happen. plus they are expensive. idk y tablets and such are cheaper with the same type screen plus the hardware of the tablet.

Almost! Cept with a Hero!
OP: If you still have the battery, you should be able to find the Amperage listed in mHa near the voltage on the batteries sticker. After you have these 2 values you should be able to construct a small circuit to drop your cars internal voltage down to the appropriate level. Hook it up to the 12v from your car at Ignition/Accessory if you want it on whenever you can use the radio, or to the Constant 12v, after the fusebox, to have it usable whenever your car doesn't need a jump! Best of Luck!
So, I'm actually trying something similar right now except with a HTC Hero with a bloated battery that refuses to hold a charge. I've tried several times to boot the phone with just the USB cable, but all I get is a red battery icon : / I'm looking to just hardwire this stupid thing to a plug or even a 9v alternative. This is gonna be used around my house for various things
As of my posting this, I've found 3 threads on slightly similar topics, none with very good/any info tho. Thank you in advance for any help!

[Q] Run NST just on USB charger and take out battery! ?

When I am at home using my laptop, I normally plug in the charging cable and take out the batteries. Now for some obscure reasons, I want to be able to do the same thing with NST (or any other eInk eReaders). Is it possible? If not, why not? Can we do something to make it a possibility?
This can be useful for instance for when I am at home... Whenever I know I want to use the NST in USB host mode (as an eWriter, Android tablet, gaming, playing music, GPS whatever), I'd like to take out battery and use it while directly plugged into wall charger or laptop usb port. Possible?

Why take out the batteries? They are doing no harm.
If you want to hang the Nook permanently on the wall, Ok.
If you patched u-boot.bin, you could get the Nook to boot without a battery.
You could also do hardware mods to the Nook to make it work that way.
See:
Curent drain on the Nook
Measuring battery current accurately
Nook Simple Touch - DOA Wont charge/turn on

Renate NST said:
Why take out the batteries? They are doing no harm.
If you want to hang the Nook permanently on the wall, Ok.
If you patched u-boot.bin, you could get the Nook to boot without a battery.
You could also do hardware mods to the Nook to make it work that way.
See:
Curent drain on the Nook
Measuring battery current accurately
Nook Simple Touch - DOA Wont charge/turn on
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It was exactly that post of yours (and the other one you referred me to) which gave me this idea. It might be just emotional but I want to preserve my batteries as much as I can, when I am on wall charger, so I'll take batteries out. It's been mentioned that for Li-ion batteries you can safely leave batteries in while charging, but... oh well, me being me I guess!
I'm interested to know both how to do u-boot patching AND hardware modding for this purpose. I guess I have so much to read.
You're the man, oops, ehem... woman, dear Renate.

idoit said:
When I am at home using my laptop, I normally plug in the charging cable and take out the batteries. Now for some obscure reasons, I want to be able to do the same thing with NST (or any other eInk eReaders). Is it possible? If not, why not? Can we do something to make it a possibility?
This can be useful for instance for when I am at home... Whenever I know I want to use the NST in USB host mode (as an eWriter, Android tablet, gaming, playing music, GPS whatever), I'd like to take out battery and use it while directly plugged into wall charger or laptop usb port. Possible?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I assume you want to preserve your batteries. You will only affect this type of batteries life/effectiveness by constant charging at 100%. Even then it will take a long while to notice. Many newer laptops (last 3-4 years) will give you bios option to charge up to only 80%. This is the sweet spot for charging life.
That said leaving your battery in your laptop/nook gives you some serious benefits. The amount of power surges, brown outs and rf noise on power lines can seriously screw with your system. That click of turning a light switch on goes through to your computer. Ok motherboard will have some filtering etc but I'd still rather have a battery protecting me. As to brown outs and surges these can cause corruption. I get a lot of power cuts and I wish there was a minimum power off length. e.g. If power is disrupted it must be off for at least 2 seconds. This lets devices power off and then switch on. The problem is where power dips for 0.5 second. This is enough time to affect your system. Possibly affect contents of your active memory and harddrive cache. Your system keeps on running and slowly overtime gets shredded.
Bottom line how much does a battery cost? Any battery for laptop is going to be <£50. How much does your laptop cost?
As to a device bursting into flames if you use a third party battery or charger its a possibility otherwise very unlikely.

Crispy3000 said:
I assume you want to preserve your batteries. You will only affect this type of batteries life/effectiveness by constant charging at 100%. Even then it will take a long while to notice. Many newer laptops (last 3-4 years) will give you bios option to charge up to only 80%. This is the sweet spot for charging life.
That said leaving your battery in your laptop/nook gives you some serious benefits. The amount of power surges, brown outs and rf noise on power lines can seriously screw with your system. That click of turning a light switch on goes through to your computer. Ok motherboard will have some filtering etc but I'd still rather have a battery protecting me. As to brown outs and surges these can cause corruption. I get a lot of power cuts and I wish there was a minimum power off length. e.g. If power is disrupted it must be off for at least 2 seconds. This lets devices power off and then switch on. The problem is where power dips for 0.5 second. This is enough time to affect your system. Possibly affect contents of your active memory and harddrive cache. Your system keeps on running and slowly overtime gets shredded.
Bottom line how much does a battery cost? Any battery for laptop is going to be <£50. How much does your laptop cost?
As to a device bursting into flames if you use a third party battery or charger its a possibility otherwise very unlikely.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks once again for your comprehensive well-thought-about response.
About the bottom line, you're absolutely right. I read somewhere that the most killing factor for laptop is heat and one part that heats up most is batteries. One of the reasons I took it apart was this. I have to admit that I'm not electrically knowledgeable enough to claim anything. Just trying to be as green and liberally conservative as possible.
By the way, worth a watch: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MD6AiWP2VsY