Wiring for Earphone - Tilt, TyTN II, MDA Vario III Accessories

I'm looking for info on the earphone wiring.
The Kaiser came with fixed earphone but the mic works very well. I need to replace the earphone with better quality ones but the HTC adaptor I got only has earphone connection and no mic. To make call, I have to uplug it completely.
I'm thinking to cut off the default earphone, solder 3 mm jack to it, and the other end put a 3 mm receptor. This way, I can retain the mic but also free to swap the earphones.
Anyone has idea what the how wiring of the earphone goes? Which part is ground, which is signal? My basic electronics tells me on the earphone ends it doesn't matter, but on the receptor ends it should matter because both ground will be soldered together and if it's wrong, it'll short the phone's port (signal L & R being shorted together). The trick on Tracy&Matt only available for the port connector mod, but not for the earphone (after mic) mod.

When you strip the cables you will find:
Right and left cable with a core:
{
"lightbox_close": "Close",
"lightbox_next": "Next",
"lightbox_previous": "Previous",
"lightbox_error": "The requested content cannot be loaded. Please try again later.",
"lightbox_start_slideshow": "Start slideshow",
"lightbox_stop_slideshow": "Stop slideshow",
"lightbox_full_screen": "Full screen",
"lightbox_thumbnails": "Thumbnails",
"lightbox_download": "Download",
"lightbox_share": "Share",
"lightbox_zoom": "Zoom",
"lightbox_new_window": "New window",
"lightbox_toggle_sidebar": "Toggle sidebar"
}
The core is the positive, the mantle the negative (ground).
ORRRR Right and left cable with each 2 wires. The negative wires will have the same color (in most cases). When you connect the wrong wires you will not hear left AND right. I doubt that your device will be damaged if you connect the wrong wires, just do not turn up the volume to the max and only check and disconnect if you cannot hear sound from both channels.
Images are just examples.
Try at own risk, good luck!
My English is not perfect, sorry!

Thank you!
I'll give it a try over weekends .. first got to buy the 3mm port

Related

Charge Raphael from 12V car battery?

Anyone seen a cable converter to allow me to charge the Raphael from a 12V car battery when there is no access to a cigarette lighter socket?
Thus, aligator clips (or similiar) that connect to the +/- terminals of a 12V battery, and then the other end has the mini-usb connector that plugs into the Raphael. Seemingly in the middle between the two would be a 12V to 5V step down.
Anyone seen such a cable? I guess I could get a standard cigarette lighter style and break it apart and solder on some aligator clips?
um.. that would most probably result in a mini explosion that will cause your fuze to go up in flames and clouds of dark ozone destroying smoke... and maybe for you to lose a hand in the process.... I highly suggest you find a different alternative...
just my 2 cents..
go to walmart and find something like this. plugging directly to a battery is a very bad idea.
{
"lightbox_close": "Close",
"lightbox_next": "Next",
"lightbox_previous": "Previous",
"lightbox_error": "The requested content cannot be loaded. Please try again later.",
"lightbox_start_slideshow": "Start slideshow",
"lightbox_stop_slideshow": "Stop slideshow",
"lightbox_full_screen": "Full screen",
"lightbox_thumbnails": "Thumbnails",
"lightbox_download": "Download",
"lightbox_share": "Share",
"lightbox_zoom": "Zoom",
"lightbox_new_window": "New window",
"lightbox_toggle_sidebar": "Toggle sidebar"
}
Get a cigarette lighter extension and cut off the male end. Put gator clips on the wires to the female end. Works awesome.
Be careful to get hot and ground correct.
Try one of these adapters "Lighter Socket Alligator Clips". Obviously you'll still need a HTC (or suitable) cigarette lighter charger. Only about USD6.00.
Cheers!

[Fixed] Beeping QI wireless charging pad

I got a wireless QI charger off Ebay the other day. Works quite well except for the beeping noises it made when putting the phone on charge
and when the battery is full. It also beeped for no apparent reason in the middle of the night. Anyway, I got sick of it and decided to pull it apart.
This model is quite easy to open with a flat head screw driver. After opening it I found the little speaker easily as it wasnt attached to the board but
separaty from it. I cut the 2 wires and took the speaker out. Charing fine now but without the annoying beeps. Also I put some tape on the little LED inside so the light is not as bright.
Hopefully my experience can help someone here who is getting sick of the beeping
{
"lightbox_close": "Close",
"lightbox_next": "Next",
"lightbox_previous": "Previous",
"lightbox_error": "The requested content cannot be loaded. Please try again later.",
"lightbox_start_slideshow": "Start slideshow",
"lightbox_stop_slideshow": "Stop slideshow",
"lightbox_full_screen": "Full screen",
"lightbox_thumbnails": "Thumbnails",
"lightbox_download": "Download",
"lightbox_share": "Share",
"lightbox_zoom": "Zoom",
"lightbox_new_window": "New window",
"lightbox_toggle_sidebar": "Toggle sidebar"
}
Rosies, if the speaker is separate, then you only need to cut one wire to break the circuit.
I purchased a Fonesaleman QI charger off Ebay, and after being woken in the middle of the night also decided to silence my charger, why do they make everything beep these days
To open this case you need to remove the four little rubber feet, carefully peel them out with your finger nail, then undo the four screws and open the case.
Once the case is apart simply pop the lid off the speaker (arrowed in the attached pictures) and remove the little silver disc, it's not fixed in place, pop the lid back on the speaker and stick the disc to the corner of the sticky pad.
I originally tried to unsolder the speaker, but I've never been too successful and purely by chance the lid came off the little speaker.

Charging port jack - now repaired

Just got this done. I had a V1.3 charge port board. Tried a replacement V1.4 board ($55) without success. Sent my V1.3 board to Pomeroy Computing in Pompano Beach. FL. Charged me $30 and returned the board with a new jack within a week. Can't ask for better than that!
I replaced my USB connector with one i bought off ebay for a little over $1
removed old one with solder wick and solder on new.
search ebay for:
Charger Port Connector For Asus Google Nexus 7
{
"lightbox_close": "Close",
"lightbox_next": "Next",
"lightbox_previous": "Previous",
"lightbox_error": "The requested content cannot be loaded. Please try again later.",
"lightbox_start_slideshow": "Start slideshow",
"lightbox_stop_slideshow": "Stop slideshow",
"lightbox_full_screen": "Full screen",
"lightbox_thumbnails": "Thumbnails",
"lightbox_download": "Download",
"lightbox_share": "Share",
"lightbox_zoom": "Zoom",
"lightbox_new_window": "New window",
"lightbox_toggle_sidebar": "Toggle sidebar"
}
I just heated up the old solder and touched up the contacts with some new solder. My port that wasn't charging is now charging. I guess over time the solder contacts break from pushing in and out the usb cable.
Just in the interest of being thorough, the N7 jack itself (not the solder points) may also be "too loose" so to speak. I've found that the majority of USB micro connectors are smaller than my N7's USB jack, so they do not seat securely once plugged in.
One fix, dismantle the N7 and bend the jack itself. Another solution: bend your cables' connectors -- the trick is to expand a cable's USB micro connector slightly with a jewler's screwdriver. Still another, some nylon cables I've bought from China fit snugly.
-Pie

[Question] [Hardwaremod] Adding a DAC into SPEN slot

Good morning folks.
Problemstatement
I have been using a Nextdrive Spectra (micro usb version) with my Note 3 to improve the audio quality. It's noticably better.
Unfortunately the Nextdrive Spectra has a regular micro Usb connector and our Note 3 has the Usb 3 micro Usb connector. This has the effect that the micro usb connector has sideways play. The USB Dac often looses connection because of this. It worked at the beginning, but now after a month's use it's basically unusable as long as I don't hold the phone in my hand or position it somewhere and don't touch it.
{
"lightbox_close": "Close",
"lightbox_next": "Next",
"lightbox_previous": "Previous",
"lightbox_error": "The requested content cannot be loaded. Please try again later.",
"lightbox_start_slideshow": "Start slideshow",
"lightbox_stop_slideshow": "Stop slideshow",
"lightbox_full_screen": "Full screen",
"lightbox_thumbnails": "Thumbnails",
"lightbox_download": "Download",
"lightbox_share": "Share",
"lightbox_zoom": "Zoom",
"lightbox_new_window": "New window",
"lightbox_toggle_sidebar": "Toggle sidebar"
}
Idea
I was thinking of taking the circuit board out of the Spectra and putting it into the slot of the SPen. It should fit. If it doesn't fit I have an 6000 mAh battery which doubles the thickness of the phone so I have even more space "to make it fit".
I would need a hardware switch to disconnect the Spectra as it draws a lot of power when it's connected. Even if there is no audio output connected.
Does anyone know if I can charge the Note 3 while I have the Spectra turned on?
Implementation
Take Spectra out of enclosure
Put Spectra circuit board into Spen slot
Solder USB wires of Spectra onto charging board of Note 3
Add hardware switch to enable/disable Spectra DAC
Can this work?
Has anyone here done a Mod like this before?
Alternative
Replace micro USB connector with micro USB 3 connector. But not as "cool". I like modding hehe.

Headunit not outputting sound through the iso connection.

Hi! I bought a headunit recently and when I fitted it in my car (a Peugeot 107) everything worked well besides the audio. When I put the key in and turn it just to power the headunit, the sound works as expected, but the moment I start the car, the sound is gone, nothing sound-related works. Sometimes when I hit the little "RST" button with the engine on, the sound comes back, but that's not the case every time. I tried looking into the settings, even in the factory settings, I tried looking through all the options, but I didn't find anything.
The unit is connected to my car just through a normal iso port, which has the cables for both the power and the speakers (I do not have any rca cables in my car):
{
"lightbox_close": "Close",
"lightbox_next": "Next",
"lightbox_previous": "Previous",
"lightbox_error": "The requested content cannot be loaded. Please try again later.",
"lightbox_start_slideshow": "Start slideshow",
"lightbox_stop_slideshow": "Stop slideshow",
"lightbox_full_screen": "Full screen",
"lightbox_thumbnails": "Thumbnails",
"lightbox_download": "Download",
"lightbox_share": "Share",
"lightbox_zoom": "Zoom",
"lightbox_new_window": "New window",
"lightbox_toggle_sidebar": "Toggle sidebar"
}
My theory is that this is a software problem and it pushes the audio through the rca connectors instead of the iso one. This is the only thing that makes sense to me since a complete reboot of the device seems to more or less solve the issue temporarily. As a workaround, I thought that maybe there's an adaptor to convert my speakers to rca and plug them in that way, but I couldn't really find something that would work.
I am not sure what model do I have since there's nothing on the box that would tell me, but I made some photos of the specs so I hope that's enough to somewhat identify it:
This issue drives me mad to be honest, especially because everything else works fine.
Thank you!

Categories

Resources