Hello all.
It's been a while since I posted in the hima-forums, ever since I got my nike I kinda let the hima go. Now I want to use it's battery for a small camera project of mine.
However the battery has got 6 'pins', and I just need 2 (- and + ofcourse ). Should I take 2 specific pins and leave the rest, or should I combine them in sets or what?
I really hope someone knows what I mean and has an answer
Thanks in advance
same question
perhaps you Should take 2 specific pins ???????????????
Referring to http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=492367
:
i stated that plate 1 and 2 have the same polarity, and plate 5 and 6 have the same polarity. however, they cannot be shared. if you were to touch plate 1 and 2 together, the batt just won't give u energy. same with 5 and 6. be careful when you're doing this, this "combining of sets" caused my hima to go dead without reason. i'm still trying to troubleshoot my hima, and pray for me that it wakes up. :\
-cyNix-
-cyNix- said:
Referring to http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=492367
:
i stated that plate 1 and 2 have the same polarity, and plate 5 and 6 have the same polarity. however, they cannot be shared. if you were to touch plate 1 and 2 together, the batt just won't give u energy. same with 5 and 6. be careful when you're doing this, this "combining of sets" caused my hima to go dead without reason. i'm still trying to troubleshoot my hima, and pray for me that it wakes up. :\
-cyNix-
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
yeah even i got a LITTLE curious about my xda himalaya battery pinout
could we put some high caps battery ??
I recommend you to use NI-MH 1.2V accu batteries, because Li-polymer batteries should not go under some voltage, dont remember exact, about 2,7V, and you got no chip to control that
Related
Each time when replacing battery date and time settings on my wizard return to default settings.
It seems CMOS battery on motherboard is dead.
Is there any way to change it and where to buy it?
Watchman said:
It seems CMOS battery on motherboard is dead.
Is there any way to change it and where to buy it?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I don't believe that You're battery is dead. It's also heppend to me when my phone was new. Every time when I remove battery, I must set my clock and date again and again.
RTC Battery
nikolica said:
I don't believe that You're battery is dead. It's also heppend to me when my phone was new.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
My Wizard is about two years old and I have had not noticed it happening before .
I plan to open housing soon to look for such battery.
RE
If You need help for opening You're wizard look this article
http://www.pdagold.com/articles/detail.asp?a=274
you can't, really.
there's a "gold cap" small capacitor surface-mounted to the motherboard of your wizard top left. this retains enough charge to keep the RTC time right, and they wear out. replacing one is risky, as the heat from a conventional soldering gun may damage components - it's something i'd advise just living with.
RTC battery
landwomble said:
there's a "gold cap" small capacitor surface-mounted to the motherboard of your wizard top left. replacing one is risky, as the heat from a conventional soldering gun may damage components - it's something i'd advise just living with.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I can not live with it, used to swap batteries very often.
Can anybody suggest proper soldering tool and web shop where to buy such tool and capacitor.
I plan to open housing anyway because I want to replace housing for new.
RTC battery
landwomble said:
there's a "gold cap" small capacitor surface-mounted to the motherboard of your wizard top left. replacing one is risky, as the heat from a conventional soldering gun may damage components - it's something i'd advise just living with.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I can not live with it, used to swap batteries very often.
Can anybody suggest proper soldering tool and web shop where to buy such tool and capacitor.
I plan to open housing anyway because I want to replace housing for new.
Backup Battery in Wizard plus other devices
... my first post ... yes I'm a noob.
Answering to something that may be a little dated, but hopefully it will come in handy for someone.
Regarding the small backup battery in Wizard (plus likely other devices). This is indeed a small battery, and not a (gold cap) capacitor as suggested in literature/previous posts.
My device too suffered this loss in time with replacement of main battery.
I sourced the battery on line (only place I found it was at DigiKey). They were $2.75/ea. plus handling fee ($6.50) plus delivery ($8.00) and of course let's not forget those taxes.
http://dkc3.digikey.com/PDF/C081/P2214.pdf (- see Figure 1 on pdf)
It is a magnesium lithium ion rechargeable (Panasonic ML414RM/F9A - DigiKey P003CT-ND). I ordered 4 on-line (I have more than one Wizard, both suffering from the same plague - one is the one I do all the fun hacking on, and keep/use one as my main workhorse. What's fun is one is G3 and the other G4 so any ROM cooking I have tried Main OS and Extended, I can validate on both types ... sorry ... back to the battery)...
I replaced the one battery to test and it worked. It now works fine and retains the time/date settings.
Now the nore technical stuff. How was it determined that it was indeed a battery and not a capacitor. Well first of all looking at it (I work a lot with electronics). Secondly, after removing I measured a small voltage on the battery. I shorted the two leads, and measured again. The voltage began to rise again. If it were a capcitor, shorting the ends would eliminate any charge and that would be it. Being as it is a battery, it revives and returns to the pre-shorted voltage again (a capacitor would not do this).
Check your device and check the battery (if possible) before trying yourself. As I mentioned I do a lot with electronics and so I feel comfortable doing this.
For those who may want to attempt themself, a fine tipped electronics soldering iron can be used (from a Radio Shack or Source or any electronics hobby shop). Get low melting temperature solder (avoid the silver solders as these have higher melting points - don't want to cook the battery). Tin the battery leads before soldering to the board. Clean and re-tin the board itself. Avoid heating/over heating the battery too long as this will "cook" the electrolyte and dramatically shorten the battery life if not destry it. Very little on the board around this battery so less likely to do any damage to the board. If you do try .... GOOD LUCK
no one uses a capacitor for saving data(even time and date) except for desktop RAM but that's just cause it gets powered up all the time by the PS.
of course a capacitor is used for short-time memory.. but it's not more than 2-3 minutes. the only way you'd be able to keep it for a long term is to have a XuF capacitor with a small battery..
these batteries are known to die frequently due to voltage shocks and extra current. the phone itself has a safety mechanism in which if you connect it to different voltage sources, as long as they're in a thin range of voltages, will manage to charge.. but some of the inner mechanisms (such as that capacitor).. are burnt during charging.
Nandaly said:
... my first post ... yes I'm a noob.
Answering to something that may be a little dated, but hopefully it will come in handy for someone.
Regarding the small backup battery in Wizard (plus likely other devices). This is indeed a small battery, and not a (gold cap) capacitor as suggested in literature/previous posts.
My device too suffered this loss in time with replacement of main battery.
I sourced the battery on line (only place I found it was at DigiKey). They were $2.75/ea. plus handling fee ($6.50) plus delivery ($8.00) and of course let's not forget those taxes.
http://dkc3.digikey.com/PDF/C081/P2214.pdf (- see Figure 1 on pdf)
It is a magnesium lithium ion rechargeable (Panasonic ML414RM/F9A - DigiKey P003CT-ND). I ordered 4 on-line (I have more than one Wizard, both suffering from the same plague - one is the one I do all the fun hacking on, and keep/use one as my main workhorse. What's fun is one is G3 and the other G4 so any ROM cooking I have tried Main OS and Extended, I can validate on both types ... sorry ... back to the battery)...
I replaced the one battery to test and it worked. It now works fine and retains the time/date settings.
Now the nore technical stuff. How was it determined that it was indeed a battery and not a capacitor. Well first of all looking at it (I work a lot with electronics). Secondly, after removing I measured a small voltage on the battery. I shorted the two leads, and measured again. The voltage began to rise again. If it were a capcitor, shorting the ends would eliminate any charge and that would be it. Being as it is a battery, it revives and returns to the pre-shorted voltage again (a capacitor would not do this).
Check your device and check the battery (if possible) before trying yourself. As I mentioned I do a lot with electronics and so I feel comfortable doing this.
For those who may want to attempt themself, a fine tipped electronics soldering iron can be used (from a Radio Shack or Source or any electronics hobby shop). Get low melting temperature solder (avoid the silver solders as these have higher melting points - don't want to cook the battery). Tin the battery leads before soldering to the board. Clean and re-tin the board itself. Avoid heating/over heating the battery too long as this will "cook" the electrolyte and dramatically shorten the battery life if not destry it. Very little on the board around this battery so less likely to do any damage to the board. If you do try .... GOOD LUCK
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The service manual speaks about a GoldCap 0,07F, 70Ohm, 3,3V (which isn't a normal capacitor) but mine looked like a small battery.
Mine was looking green because of some oxide on it. (caused by rainy jackets I thihk)
Is it really possible that the service manual is wrong? I thought there are also rechargable button cells...do you know for sure a regular lithium cell is ok?
(oh, my device is a prophet)
THIS IS A HIGH CAPACITY CAPACITOR also called super capacitor.
looking at what is printed GoldCap 0,07F, 70Ohm, 3,3V
F=Farad (capacitance values are normally specified in nano, micro, milli farads etc
I tried soldering on a broken USB connector in a wizard once but messed it all up, it seems they use some RoHS tin which makes it very difficult to make clean connections.
No! Not A Capacitor! Yes A Battery!
Folks,
This is indeed a battery in the HTC Wizard and NOT A CAPACITOR. A 0.07F capacitor would be physically several times larger than the phone itself.
So regardless of what is "printed" in the service manual, this is a small magnesium lithium ion rechargeable battery.
I have changed on 2 HTC Wizards (branded ATT Cingular 8125).
What I took out was exact identical to what I purchsed from Digikey (on-line as posted in my earlier comment)(and yes, the soldering is/was a tad bit difficult - if you do not know what you are doing).
Signed (Nandaly), B.A.Sc., P.Eng.
hi, just posting about the status of my MDA PRO, after xda helped me fix my MDA Touch ( =D )
it was on charge one day, i picked it up and the usb port was still stuck to the charger!!!!!
it has also ripped up some of the PCB on one of the contacts, will it be possible to solder, i tried but failed.......
if not are these alright?
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/DESKTOP-BATTERY-CHARGER-FOR-HTC-UNIVERSAL-O2-XDA-EXEC_W0QQitemZ350176962736QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUK_MobilePhones_MobilePhoneAccessories_MobilePhoneChargers?hash=item350176962736&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14&_trkparms=72%3A1683|66%3A2|65%3A12|39%3A1|240%3A1318|301%3A1|293%3A1|294%3A50
thanks
Tom
Damn.
Mine's going the same way When I wiggle the cable it disconnects, so, I'd imagine i'm a few weeks or months away from the same fate.
Good luck fixing it, if you intend to.
Wish HTC would make a successor!
yeah i have the same issue also. i purchased one of those type chargers and waiting for it to arrive. havent tried soldering mine as im waiting for the replacement connector to arrive also. whichever comes first. been 2 weeks already
is this considered a known issue with this model? meaning it will happen with any carrier branded universal. love the unit but dang.
i still have my original connector, the main problem is the PCB board stuck to the solder. and that as well as 4 big contacts, there's about 5 little ones that my soldering iron is too big for.
My granddad has a smaller one, so ill have a crack with that
let me know how th eexternal charger is. because if its very slow at charging its not worth it... as you cant leave the phone on while charging it
(two batteries maybe?)
got charger. takes 3 to 4 hours to charge my original battery. battery runs out at 38% but was doing that prior. bought another battery hasnt arrived though.
you will need a 2nd battery to have Uni run all day as i do depending on how much battery life you get out of yours.
but Uni working again now to flash rom via sd slot. need to test 3G with last Tmobile rom as im not getting it currently.
It is possible to resolder them i did it for a friend but it takes a steady hand and a fine soldering iron tip of about 1mm set on about 343 oC as you have to be very carefull not to overheat the socket or the plastic innards melt also there are a few surface mount components very close so you have to be carefull not to losen or remove those.
so I broke the tab in the usb port in my nexus 4. I bought an induction charger but it doesn't seem to be charging the thing very well. It will sometimes turn on and I can see the battery is at 0% and it shuts down. do you think there is a chance there is a short in the port itself making it so that the battery drains itself? I left it charging overnight with no luck. What to do next? remove the port entirely while I wait for the new usb daughter board to come in the mail?
mikkowus said:
so I broke the tab in the usb port in my nexus 4. I bought an induction charger but it doesn't seem to be charging the thing very well. It will sometimes turn on and I can see the battery is at 0% and it shuts down. do you think there is a chance there is a short in the port itself making it so that the battery drains itself? I left it charging overnight with no luck. What to do next? remove the port entirely while I wait for the new usb daughter board to come in the mail?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I think it's more likely that the broken USB tab is causing either a short or has broken a connection the phone expects, which fools the circuitry into thinking the phone is plugged in to USB, which won't allow it to charge via Qi. You could try charging it with the daughterboard removed, but I'd be surprised if it works. Hopefully you have a back-up phone while you wait for the part, even if it's a RAZR V3 or Nokia 3310. SIM won't match, obviously, but you can probably pick up an adapter locally.
Planterz said:
I think it's more likely that the broken USB tab is causing either a short or has broken a connection the phone expects, which fools the circuitry into thinking the phone is plugged in to USB, which won't allow it to charge via Qi. You could try charging it with the daughterboard removed, but I'd be surprised if it works. Hopefully you have a back-up phone while you wait for the part, even if it's a RAZR V3 or Nokia 3310. SIM won't match, obviously, but you can probably pick up an adapter locally.
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Click to collapse
That makes sense. I do have an old samsung tmobile phone that lasts about 4 hours on its battery. I guess I might be using that for a few days. I'ts at home though and I'm at work. It would be nice if this thing would just work. I need to find a t5 torx wrench and scew it up more......
mikkowus said:
That makes sense. I do have an old samsung tmobile phone that lasts about 4 hours on its battery. I guess I might be using that for a few days. I'ts at home though and I'm at work. It would be nice if this thing would just work. I need to find a t5 torx wrench and scew it up more......
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Some advice for someone who hasn't taken this phone apart yet:
First, go to ifixit and familiarize yourself with the teardown guide. There are also some youtube videos that are helpful (if you can't find them immediately, look for screen replacement guides.
Second, you'll need something thin and flat, and hopefully not with sharp edges. They make tools for this, but I doubt you'll be willing to order them and wait. Myself, I used the nail file from a keychain Swiss Army Knife. It's possible, even likely you'll cosmetically damage the plastic up a bit. If you have a hair drier (or even a heat gun), this can aid in softening up the adhesive. In any case, go slowly.
Do the disassembly over a fluffy towel. There are many tiny screws, and a fluffy towel will trap them rather than having them bounce away and disappear.
As I write this, another thought occurs to me. If you can, wait a few more days, but order yourself a new battery off eBay. Many sellers include the needed disassembly tools (including a T5 TORX, small Philips, and the plastic separating tools). Your Nexus 4 is probably 1.5-2.5 years old by now, which means your battery has had well over 500 cycles. At this point, you've lost upwards of 20% your battery's original capacity. Or don't wait, but order a new battery anyway and reopen the phone when you get it. The degradation of a battery is slow and one really doesn't notice it until that day you think to yourself "it seems like it used to last longer". Indeed, you may open up your phone to discover a puffed-out battery in desperate need of replacement anyway.
Planterz said:
Some advice for someone who hasn't taken this phone apart yet:
First, go to ifixit and familiarize yourself with the teardown guide. There are also some youtube videos that are helpful (if you can't find them immediately, look for screen replacement guides.
Second, you'll need something thin and flat, and hopefully not with sharp edges. They make tools for this, but I doubt you'll be willing to order them and wait. Myself, I used the nail file from a keychain Swiss Army Knife. It's possible, even likely you'll cosmetically damage the plastic up a bit. If you have a hair drier (or even a heat gun), this can aid in softening up the adhesive. In any case, go slowly.
Do the disassembly over a fluffy towel. There are many tiny screws, and a fluffy towel will trap them rather than having them bounce away and disappear.
As I write this, another thought occurs to me. If you can, wait a few more days, but order yourself a new battery off eBay. Many sellers include the needed disassembly tools (including a T5 TORX, small Philips, and the plastic separating tools). Your Nexus 4 is probably 1.5-2.5 years old by now, which means your battery has had well over 500 cycles. At this point, you've lost upwards of 20% your battery's original capacity. Or don't wait, but order a new battery anyway and reopen the phone when you get it. The degradation of a battery is slow and one really doesn't notice it until that day you think to yourself "it seems like it used to last longer". Indeed, you may open up your phone to discover a puffed-out battery in desperate need of replacement anyway.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Cool. I did end up ordering a new battery because of just that thought. It will be coming Friday though so I might not want to wait. I'll probably end up opening it up twice.. I also happened to open the phone about a 3 weeks after I bought it as somehow the screen cracked. I also have a heatgun. The phone is pretty old. I got it on release.
Sorry for my English
Please help / advice. Immensely grateful.
*First, about a week had a problem with the battery charge percentage rate jumped from 50 to 3 and from 46 to 1 and then switched off. First turn to the charge, then stopped. In general, the battery moved plume. Without the battery when you try to turn the unit on the charging, it shows the boot screen and off blinking red LED and stopping, then do not turn on the speaker, and publishes periodically claps, stronger and stronger. Several times could come in and re-install Cyanogen recovery sometimes full time to install, sometimes interrupted by turning off and subsequent Nexus 4 cotton speaker.
*Questions:
*1.What it as a nightmare?
*2.Can I include all enable it to charging without a battery?
*3. How many repairs will cost and whether it is possible in the house. conditions?
Seems like a dead battery to me.
Sent from my Nexus 4
Replace the battery with new one.
All will be Ok
first of all take a big long breath, probably its just a dead battery.
try to short it (take out the battery and connect the + and -) and then charge it with a known good charger.
if it doesn't help just replace the battery... its cheap no big deal
elad.g said:
first of all take a big long breath, probably its just a dead battery.
try to short it (take out the battery and connect the + and -) and then charge it with a known good charger.
if it doesn't help just replace the battery... its cheap no big deal
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Click to collapse
This is for a nexus 4 right ? .. if so the last nexus 4 I had you couldn't take out the battery
jcbjoe said:
This is for a nexus 4 right ? .. if so the last nexus 4 I had you couldn't take out the battery
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
there is no such thing a phone that you cant take out the battery...
in some of them its easier (the back pop out) and some of them are harder (screws etc.) and its going to be more of this because of the water and dust resistant that will be a standard in the near future.
anyway... search 4 some disassembly videos in YouTube, there are a lot.
disassemble, try 2 fix battery, if it don't help just replace it and put it back together.
elad.g said:
there is no such thing a phone that you cant take out the battery...
in some of them its easier (the back pop out) and some of them are harder (screws etc.) and its going to be more of this because of the water and dust resistant that will be a standard in the near future.
anyway... search 4 some disassembly videos in YouTube, there are a lot.
disassemble, try 2 fix battery, if it don't help just replace it and put it back together.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Ok that makes sense .. I thought you you never had a nexus 4 and you didn't know that the battery came out .. didn't know you meant to actually take it apart
Recently digged out my old Qtek 9000 from the closet, and want to get it turned on again, but i have no battery.. It had swollen up years ago, so i threw it out.
Is there any way i can get the device to turn on again? Plugging in the mini usb charger, and i get a steady red led on the device but not able to turn it on. I tried attaching a powersupply of 3.7v to the + and - min but still nothing..
Any tricks?
Replace battery. It can damage the device severely or worse.
Any swelling is a failure.
Do Not attempt to charge a failed Li!!!
Without the battery to supply enough current, it can not boot. The charger can't sink enough current for a boot up...
blackhawk said:
Replace battery. It can damage the device severely or worse.
Any swelling is a failure.
Do Not attempt to charge a failed Li!!!
Without the battery to supply enough current, it can not boot. The charger can't sink enough current for a boot up...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Where to find a battery in the EU though?
Don't know. Sorry. Li's have a limited self life too of about 3-4 years max.
blackhawk said:
Don't know. Sorry. Li's have a limited self life too of about 3-4 years max.
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Click to collapse
Oh.. Guess its a goner by now then. What a shame. Thanks for your input!
Da9L said:
Oh.. Guess its a goner by now then. What a shame. Thanks for your input!
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Click to collapse
You can find or adapt a battery if you put some time into it... depends if it's worth it to you.
I have a 12yo flip top ruggedized phone that still boots
So to get the device to turn on with a another battery of the same voltage.. Should i only need to connect the two pins on each end of the pins on the device ?
Da9L said:
So to get the device to turn on with a another battery of the same voltage.. Should i only need to connect the two pins on each end of the pins on the device ?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
If there's only 2 pins, yes. The polarity must be correct!
Soldering to the mobo van be tricky if you're not proficient at doing it. Not the place to learn! The mobo landings can easily be destroyed by excess or prolonged heat. Prolonged is measured in seconds like 1-3 @ 725F with well tinned tip using 60/40 or better 63/37 lead based rosin core solder only. A tin or bottle of rosin flux can be useful.
You may only get one shot at it...solder pad landing repairs are even more difficult.
It wire is used, very thin gauge stranded only and always pretinned.