Screen stopped working, only backlight after trying to fix vibrate - P3600 General

So I tried to do this: http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=376035
My screw was loose indeed. In fact is was so loose it fell out before I had opened it completely.
I tightened the screw, closed the cover, turned it on, and... nothing. Only the backlight of the screen, but the screen stays completely BLACK. Nothing. (I know the phone is working though, because if I hold the off button I'll hear the "boink" sound)
I tried this:
- With and without SIM card.
- With and without tightening the screw.
- With and without the power cord.
Mind you I have NEVER had this problem before.
What is going on here? Did I **** something up badly while opening this phone? If I did I am going to be super sad, so please, help me!

Anyone?

I basically have the same fault mate. My vibrator lock screw was loose and it made the phone rattle.
I opened it up and probably either tightened the screw up too much and killed something on the mainboard or 'pinched' the lcd flex ribbon ( rusty gold coloured thing- it plugs into the small white ribbon connector on the MB ) with the opening tool.
Anyway - the phone could take calls , it seems to be working ,although I have no display , and the keypad buttons are all lit up very brightly , what scuppered me was with the constant case opening I eventually managed to break the power microswitch off the MB and I now have to use the reset button to power the phone on.
I don't want to waste money buying a new lcd screen for a phone which might be terminally damaged due to a mainboard fault , anyone narrow these faults down more ?.

shameless bump.
BUMP !!

Im just fixing my LCD on my P3600 and have it in bits,
is the display connector definitely pushed all the way in?

Yeah m8 - AFAIK it is all the way in , I am certain that it is the flex ribbon connector that is broken.
For anyone else interested in this or that has the same problem - there is a program called ' my mobiler ' which can be found in the forum somewhere , using it will tell you all you need to know ;
i.e = if it is the phone itself that's broken , or it's a damaged display.

Related

sily screen wont work

i jus changed the housing on my xda mini now it starts but nothing is on the screen, i hear the sound and bottons light up... ive check connector is in firmly however ive accidently broken the connector lock, does it need the lock in place for it to work...
if not what else can i try
also my flashing status light isnt fashing although fone is on (screen still not on) i get a white flash now and then on screen... and sometimes weird back lines..?
helo????
anyone here?
It is important that the flat cable has a good contact with the connector. I also broke the lock but placed a thin rigid plastic to keep the flat cable pressed down and then some tape on top to keep it in place.
nah didnt fix it, ah well another door stop..
the ribbon myt b broken....i think u'll need to replace display and da touchscreen too
try looking at ribbon cable carefully !

[Q] Screen problem

Hello People,
I've got a little problem with my hd2 ^^
Since several weeks, the plastic from the LED's was pushed inside the device and so the vibration alarm wasn't really silent anymore (since the vibrator is behind the led plastic and it touched it inside).
So now I decided to open the device an push the plastic back in it's place.
Opening the device was really hard because of the massive glue they used^^
But after some minutes I got the electronics out of the body. I cleaned it a little bit up, fixed the plastic an put the device back together.
Starting it, confirmed that the vibration now works silent again, but my screen stays black...
I really don't know what happend there , but I never touched the screen or openend the device more than I had to.
So maybe anyone has an idea?
THanks a lot.
First thing is that i dont understand where you finded "massive glue" if you just opened your phone to place back leds cover/zoom plastic. They dont use glue, only adeshive stick tape. But this is just interesting for me.
Second thing is: are you used some minimalistic bead when you placed back leds cover/zoom plastic? If you didnt, then it can drop again to inside.
If your screen is black then maybe you just acidently touched connector and ribbon cable, where lcd connects to motherboard. You must open your device again and recheck. This connector attached with ribbon cable at lcd must be sealed with yellow tape.
Hello,
sorry a meant adeshive stick tape ^^ I was just hacked off when I wrote this
yes, I put something on the led plastic.
I checked all the connectors and also watched a video where the disassemble the entire phone in order to see where I could have damaged or removed something. But as far as I can see, there is nothing loose or missing. I didn't remove the mainboard; I just took the device out of it's outside cover.
Hmm, i dont have idea whats wrong then.
I opened mine phone not once. Also replaced more 5 HD2 digitizers and lcds. All time dont had this probelm.
Are you sure you dont had static electric on your hands?
yes, I was protected against static electric.
maybe I'm gonna disassemble it totally and see if something else is loose.
Turning it on works, because the vibrator triggers once.
And I just realized that the power led does not work when I'm plugging the device in...strange

[Q] HTC HD2 [TMo] LCD Ribbon or Socket Broken

So here is my story. I installed a new digitizer for my broken HD2 screen, and ended up creating a crease on the ribbon cable. I managed to also break off half of the lock-in bar (the black bar) on the socket, but it still locks half of the other pins down and in place.
Heres the problem.
I turn on the phone, and the screen lights up but doesn't show me my display. The backlight IS on, but isn't showing the bootup, or anything. I DID manage to get it to show the screen by messing with the cable, but only for a few seconds and then it wouldn't anymore. The phone functions fine, I had a friend send me a text and the phone vibrated, and when I pressed the lock button it locked and unlocked (for my Android ROM). I know it did this because the backlight would turn on and off on the LCD.
Would buying a new LCD fix the problem or does that little black bar on the socket matter? I figured all it did was lock the pins in place so it shouldn't be a big deal..
there is 3 ways out of that.
One put a tape over the back side of the flex. it might work sometimes, but not reliable
Two buy a new socket from ebay and resolder it.
Three hardcorely wire them. It is possible I fixed a broken volume flex before.
the lock does not just hold the cable in place it also pushes it down on the contact face.
You may be able to pack the ribbon on the back to help it fit tighter in the sock & increase pressure to the mating faces, hopefully the rest of cable is serviceable ! extra lock security can be added with tape & ribbon can be reinforced with tape too if helps.

HD2's innards: Attempted vibration motor fix gone horribly wrong.. HELP!

I'm hoping somebody with some knowledge of the HD2's innards can help me...
My vibration stopped working on my HD2. I found the plastic LED flash cover to be 'pushed in' (with the help of a couple xda threads I dug up). Others said it was an easy fix: Open the case and push that piece of plastic back into place.
I opened up the case to correct it. But after putting it back together not only does vibrate not work, but the volume keys, speakers (both earpiece and speakerphone), flash, notification led, and camera all don't work.
I obviously screwed something up, but I have no clue what it could have been. I was very careful. One thing I'll note is that when I pulled the case apart, the plastic volume rocker went flying. When putting the phone back together I got it back into place so that I THOUGHT it should work (it was seated properly and felt "clicky" for up/down movements.
But clearly wasn't just the volume rocker that was affected. It doesn't seem that I pulled anything else loose or anything like that...
But no luck, all that I listed above is non functional, and what I'm left with is a glorified 3.5 in tablet
Any ideas?? Thanks in advance!!!
Snapped a couple quick pics which may help:
http://i50.tinypic.com/mmsa36.jpg
http://i47.tinypic.com/sl1kdx.jpg
Unfortunately when comparing these to other pictures of the inside of the HD2 that I found online, I fail to see any differences, or anything I could have inadvertently screwed up.
Most likely you screwed up(or disconnected from motherboard) somehow your main flexboard, but your picture are not usable for this, you should take off your motherboard+main flexboard from chassis to have a full view!
You probobly just disconnected a small cable. I have no idea of the HD2 innards but did multiple repairs of small stuffs and the flat cables hold in place by a plastic clicker pull out easily - just reopen and check them all, you should be fine.
Thanks for the input! I figured it's something like that, just one small cable. But I didn't even take off the board at all... The pictures show the full extent of the disassembly... Do we still think it's necessary to disassemble it further?
I checked all visible connections, but yeah, maybe I somehow yanked out something that is NOT visible. I'll try to check again today... In the meantime, any more ideas from anyone else? Thanks!
For al that to be not responding I would assume main-flex damaged or as mention before maybe connection to mainboard got moved during pulling cover !
Volume button can be troublesome, sometimes the little plastic caps come off but if it felt clicky should be good in that respect.
also be very carefull of thin spring metal legs that contact antenna pads on back cover, one near screw above & right of vibro motor looks a to be a bit flat. They bend easily & break easily too ...
Have u tried starting up the phone without the backing? I had this issue when I painted my housing the led cover was stopping the motor from spinning but if i took out the backing it works. So I just trimmed the led cover and now it works.
Mister B said:
For al that to be not responding I would assume main-flex damaged or as mention before maybe connection to mainboard got moved during pulling cover !
Volume button can be troublesome, sometimes the little plastic caps come off but if it felt clicky should be good in that respect.
also be very carefull of thin spring metal legs that contact antenna pads on back cover, one near screw above & right of vibro motor looks a to be a bit flat. They bend easily & break easily too ...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'm nooby with regard to this stuff; I only attempted the repair since I read in a couple other threads about multiple self-proclaimed non-super-tech savvy people were able to open it up and move the plastic LED cover for an easy fix.
So what exactly am I looking for with regard to the main-flex? Where is it? I thought I wouldn't really see that unless I removed the board which I haven't done... is it still possible I knocked it loose or damaged it? I didn't think that would be possible since I ONLY removed the back cover (though it does take a slightly uncomfortable amount of force to do so, so I guess anything can happen...).
If not the main flex cable, is there anything else specific to look at which may be disconnected? It seems to be all the stuff at the top of the phone that fails to work (camera, speakers, vibration, flash, volume keys). While the stuff on the bottom (other hardware buttons, charging jack, headphone jack, etc).
THanks!
I have given up. After being stumped briefly how to hard reset the device without the volume keys working (I have Android installed), I was able to do it via ADB from the Android dev kit.
To ebay I go...

HTC HD2 assembly problem

Hi guys,
I just disassembled my HD2 to replace my broken digitizer and touchscreen.
But now i'm stuck with a problem.
What shall I use to glue both items together again?
And the keyboard makes some issues.
I tried to place both parts over eachother to see if they fit but I can't press the keys after it.
Seems like they are stuck.
That's why I didn't want to use superglue because after assembling it I wouldn't be able to change anything.
Maybe pictures tell more than words.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=t8Q7mXdcJ54&feature=player_embedded
hope that helps you
thanks wasn't the information I was looking for but nevermind
I assembled the device now .. but the next problem occured ..
the hd2 is loading without problems (led shows it) but when I try to power it on it's completely dead. nothing happends
with my old touchscreen it was at least possible to power it on.
my question is:
could the new soldered touchscreen + digitizer be broken? or did I break something during disassembly and assembly?
To be honest I didn't see any mistakes I made.
It's not my first time repairing stuff like that because I used to repair notebooks as a hobby.
Still i'm unsure what the heck is going on with my phone atm.
did you check if the flex cable from display is in the port, there is an white stripe that shows how far it must in the port. Did the phone vibrate when you pressed power button?
I checked the cables and found nothing suspicious.
and the phone didnt even vibrate after trying to power it on.
I'm trying to get a new hardkey board (i hope you know what I mean).
Had problems with the keys being stuck and maybe I killed that one by trying to assemble it.
if the phone doesn't recognize me pushing the power on key it's no wonder it won't do anything.
hope this will fix the problem
12dollar said:
I checked the cables and found nothing suspicious.
and the phone didnt even vibrate after trying to power it on.
I'm trying to get a new hardkey board (i hope you know what I mean).
Had problems with the keys being stuck and maybe I killed that one by trying to assemble it.
if the phone doesn't recognize me pushing the power on key it's no wonder it won't do anything.
hope this will fix the problem
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Most likely something is wrong with your Power button, but you should turn it on with 2nd method:
- pull out battery;
- insert usb cable(connected to PC)/charger in your usb port;
- insert battery.
This way it should turn on whatever OS you have installed on.
If your OS is Android through MAGLDR, connecting it through usb should turn it on by default, unless your battery is not dead!
Check it out!
bib*oops said:
Most likely something is wrong with your Power button, but you should turn it on with 2nd method:
- pull out battery;
- insert usb cable(connected to PC)/charger in your usb port;
- insert battery.
This way it should turn on whatever OS you have installed on.
If your OS is Android through MAGLDR, connecting it through usb should turn it on by default, unless your battery is not dead!
Check it out!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I just did as you said and yeah the phone came to life.
so there is definately a dead power button (probably the board is broken)
12dollar said:
I just did as you said and yeah the phone came to life.
so there is definately a dead power button (probably the board is broken)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Glad to hear that!
Definitely you should replace your keypad flex!
Did you fix the problem with the hardware keys
Hi,
I have very similar problem.
I changed the touch screen on my HD2 and after reassembling I cannot get the hardware keys clicked.
I ordered a brand new key board and brand new plastic buttons. I received them but situation is the same.
If somebody can explain is there any trick during adjusting the plastic buttons to the clickable "small dots" on the board - please help me.
Best Regards
maznevh said:
Hi,
I have very similar problem.
I changed the touch screen on my HD2 and after reassembling I cannot get the hardware keys clicked.
I ordered a brand new key board and brand new plastic buttons. I received them but situation is the same.
If somebody can explain is there any trick during adjusting the plastic buttons to the clickable "small dots" on the board - please help me.
Best Regards
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Normally this is always down to glass digitizer not being aligned correctly when stuck to LCD.
0.05mm can make all the difference here.
You need review current digitizer position & pre test assembly to centre chassis without tape for a test run on button function.
Also check button board position is exact & located correctly in the pin holes at each end of the board.
original board quality is normally far better than most of the very cheap eBay pattern parts but one or two sellers offer a decent board around $4.50
Also clean all old tape from back of LCD & centre chassis plate so parts fit flush & once all checked new tape can be added, I also use small spots of up40 adhesive sealant near corners & near middle edges for final build up as holds far better than even the best tapes & gives an original strength & long lasting flush look to final job plus us easily removed with razor blade if repair ever needed again.
Super glue is a BIG no no NO.
Hard to get hardware buttons clickable
Mister B said:
Normally this is always down to glass digitizer not being aligned correctly when stuck to LCD.
0.05mm can make all the difference here.
You need review current digitizer position & pre test assembly to centre chassis without tape for a test run on button function.
Also check button board position is exact & located correctly in the pin holes at each end of the board.
original board quality is normally far better than most of the very cheap eBay pattern parts but one or two sellers offer a decent board around $4.50
Also clean all old tape from back of LCD & centre chassis plate so parts fit flush & once all checked new tape can be added, I also use small spots of up40 adhesive sealant near corners & near middle edges for final build up as holds far better than even the best tapes & gives an original strength & long lasting flush look to final job plus us easily removed with razor blade if repair ever needed again.
Super glue is a BIG no no NO.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It is not the case in my case , because I ordered full set (digitizer + display) and they arrived factory assembled.
But you are definitely right - 0.05 mm make the difference. I think the problem comes from the fact that the board with buttons cannot be firmly fixed to the 2 small juts on the chassis. You know the plug of the buttons board is on the tail like extension. Probably when I try to cover the buttons board with the LCD+digitizer - the frame of the LCD slightly pushes the buttons board and the juts on the plastic buttons cannot be fixed exactly on the top of the actual buttons on the board. Anyway we are speaking about precise fixing something around 0.05 mm over something else, which is exactly same size... and in the same time you have to fix this without any visibility.
I will continue trying. If you can give me any other ideas - I will appreciate this.
Thanks
maznevh said:
It is not the case in my case , because I ordered full set (digitizer + display) and they arrived factory assembled.
But you are definitely right - 0.05 mm make the difference. I think the problem comes from the fact that the board with buttons cannot be firmly fixed to the 2 small juts on the chassis. You know the plug of the buttons board is on the tail like extension. Probably when I try to cover the buttons board with the LCD+digitizer - the frame of the LCD slightly pushes the buttons board and the juts on the plastic buttons cannot be fixed exactly on the top of the actual buttons on the board. Anyway we are speaking about precise fixing something around 0.05 mm over something else, which is exactly same size... and in the same time you have to fix this without any visibility.
I will continue trying. If you can give me any other ideas - I will appreciate this.
Thanks
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Do not rule out the LCD/Digitizer assembly as the china combos are prone to not the best accuracy of assembly as sounds like maybe LCD is mounted just a fraction too low on the digitizer perhaps.
Button board should be fixed via 3M style tape & most replacement boards come with tape ready for fitting.
worth making effort with button board to centre chassis to mount securely then mounting lcd to chassis without tape for a trial assembly & try and check for possible issues such as bent chassis or old tape not removed sufficiently or new assembly alignment not the best.
I would also recommend using original plastic button strip as the copy ones are not always good & have had experience with them before.

Categories

Resources