So here is my story. I installed a new digitizer for my broken HD2 screen, and ended up creating a crease on the ribbon cable. I managed to also break off half of the lock-in bar (the black bar) on the socket, but it still locks half of the other pins down and in place.
Heres the problem.
I turn on the phone, and the screen lights up but doesn't show me my display. The backlight IS on, but isn't showing the bootup, or anything. I DID manage to get it to show the screen by messing with the cable, but only for a few seconds and then it wouldn't anymore. The phone functions fine, I had a friend send me a text and the phone vibrated, and when I pressed the lock button it locked and unlocked (for my Android ROM). I know it did this because the backlight would turn on and off on the LCD.
Would buying a new LCD fix the problem or does that little black bar on the socket matter? I figured all it did was lock the pins in place so it shouldn't be a big deal..
there is 3 ways out of that.
One put a tape over the back side of the flex. it might work sometimes, but not reliable
Two buy a new socket from ebay and resolder it.
Three hardcorely wire them. It is possible I fixed a broken volume flex before.
the lock does not just hold the cable in place it also pushes it down on the contact face.
You may be able to pack the ribbon on the back to help it fit tighter in the sock & increase pressure to the mating faces, hopefully the rest of cable is serviceable ! extra lock security can be added with tape & ribbon can be reinforced with tape too if helps.
Related
i jus changed the housing on my xda mini now it starts but nothing is on the screen, i hear the sound and bottons light up... ive check connector is in firmly however ive accidently broken the connector lock, does it need the lock in place for it to work...
if not what else can i try
also my flashing status light isnt fashing although fone is on (screen still not on) i get a white flash now and then on screen... and sometimes weird back lines..?
helo????
anyone here?
It is important that the flat cable has a good contact with the connector. I also broke the lock but placed a thin rigid plastic to keep the flat cable pressed down and then some tape on top to keep it in place.
nah didnt fix it, ah well another door stop..
the ribbon myt b broken....i think u'll need to replace display and da touchscreen too
try looking at ribbon cable carefully !
Like the topics states my 8125 will fade the screen every time I slide my keyboard open. It does it about halfway through the slide. Also practically non of the buttons on the front work anymore. I was told the ribbon cable may be loose, so I took it apart. I got all the way until the back of the screen seperates from the screen. I was pulling that apart and it didnt want to come so I just stoped in fear of breaking something. It was almost as if glue was holding a board on. Anyways I looked around as best I could and did not see anything. When I turned it back on it started right up but still fades out when slide open. Its been doing this for some time now and I just got back into the the cell phone thing rather then purchasing a new one. NBD ROM but the problem existed way before changing anything on the phone. Any help would be great. TIA
ttt anyone??
You will have to use a clipper preferably a plastic one to seperate the black back panel of the LCD housing,insert the clipper from the side and then run it along the entire panel till the six(i think) clamps unlock,then gently pry the back panel off taking care not to cut the flexi strip,that should do.It is most unlikely that it is a software issue,85% its a strip problem and 15% maybe because of the LCD.
Any chance you mean the ribbon cable when u say strip?
I have had the cable off and visualy looks ok.
any chance there is a replacement cable that I can purchace somewhere?
So I tried to do this: http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=376035
My screw was loose indeed. In fact is was so loose it fell out before I had opened it completely.
I tightened the screw, closed the cover, turned it on, and... nothing. Only the backlight of the screen, but the screen stays completely BLACK. Nothing. (I know the phone is working though, because if I hold the off button I'll hear the "boink" sound)
I tried this:
- With and without SIM card.
- With and without tightening the screw.
- With and without the power cord.
Mind you I have NEVER had this problem before.
What is going on here? Did I **** something up badly while opening this phone? If I did I am going to be super sad, so please, help me!
Anyone?
I basically have the same fault mate. My vibrator lock screw was loose and it made the phone rattle.
I opened it up and probably either tightened the screw up too much and killed something on the mainboard or 'pinched' the lcd flex ribbon ( rusty gold coloured thing- it plugs into the small white ribbon connector on the MB ) with the opening tool.
Anyway - the phone could take calls , it seems to be working ,although I have no display , and the keypad buttons are all lit up very brightly , what scuppered me was with the constant case opening I eventually managed to break the power microswitch off the MB and I now have to use the reset button to power the phone on.
I don't want to waste money buying a new lcd screen for a phone which might be terminally damaged due to a mainboard fault , anyone narrow these faults down more ?.
shameless bump.
BUMP !!
Im just fixing my LCD on my P3600 and have it in bits,
is the display connector definitely pushed all the way in?
Yeah m8 - AFAIK it is all the way in , I am certain that it is the flex ribbon connector that is broken.
For anyone else interested in this or that has the same problem - there is a program called ' my mobiler ' which can be found in the forum somewhere , using it will tell you all you need to know ;
i.e = if it is the phone itself that's broken , or it's a damaged display.
Hey im panicing so bad rite now. I just broke my htc's LCD screen ! Mad sad from this disaster . Dont got much money so can someone please tell me whats the cheapest or best way to replace or fix it ? I really need help because im freaking out!
The repair choices
There are basically two choices. Doing it yourself or having it repaired.
In either case the most straight forward is to replace the screen and digitizer as one unit. I expect you can still see things on the screen yet its cracked from one corner. Its the digitizer on the top that usually suffers but its hard to replace by itself. There is a YouTube video showing how to do this (search on Replace Touch Screen on HTC HD2 on YouTube).
If you are game to do it yourself (an electronics tech would be able to do it fairly well, though it is still fairly difficult) then you can buy a complete screen and digitizer off ebay (around $100). Getting the unit out of the case is tricky as its held in with 4xT5 Torx screws (easy bit) and lock notches around the case (tricky part). I found thin stiff plastic bits slotted in between the module and the case works well at releasing the locking notches. Then press out at the top of the battery area, while pulling the top edge of the plastic case out and down with your finger nails. One side at a time. Don't forget to remove the SIM card and SD card as these will hold the module in place if not removed.
The double sided tapes used to hold the screen in place are a problem, but warming them up with a carefully applied heat gun does release them. I would add that there is no need to unscrew any of the electronics boards as the screen can be replaced without doing this. Releasing the screen ribbon cable connector is done by flipping up the black locking section on the ribbon socket. Slide in the new cable, lock it down, then curl it around as you slide it backward under the metal case so that the curl in the cable occurs in that small space under the metal rather than being folded over sharply, which can fracture the ribbon cable "wires" rendering the screen dead.
Press the screen back down onto the tape (hopefully the tape has remained slick enough as its all that holds the screen in place). Be careful to align the edges and top and bottom correctly, otherwise your buttons won't work and the screen will not sit in the case properly. You can test the buttons as you align to feel for the slight click. Be sure to test all four as alignment left to right is just as critical for full function as up and down. You should also watch to be sure the light sensor little plastic bit (its a small clear cube of plastic) doesn't fall out and disappear while you are doing the screen swap and it stays in place during reassembly.
Then press it home into the plastic case. I remove the volume button (if it hasn't fallen out already) as it tends to push the volume button pads out of alignment (they are only held in with yellow tape (be careful not to loose them). Then with it all snapped in place pull out at the volume button section and slot the button back in place. Orientation is fairly obvious with the button points lower down and the joining bar going behind the case plastic to lock it in place (all with the screen facing upward). You may find the volume button only works if you press down on the screen slightly. This movement will be taken up when you screw the 4 torx screws back in.
Finish by powering up (with fingers crossed) and test. Hopefully all working.
Alternatively, if thats put you off doing it yourself, get it repaired by a service agent (around $300). Then it comes back all done with a small warranty. Most of the phone providers will be able to direct you to a good independent service agent.
Hi guys,
I just disassembled my HD2 to replace my broken digitizer and touchscreen.
But now i'm stuck with a problem.
What shall I use to glue both items together again?
And the keyboard makes some issues.
I tried to place both parts over eachother to see if they fit but I can't press the keys after it.
Seems like they are stuck.
That's why I didn't want to use superglue because after assembling it I wouldn't be able to change anything.
Maybe pictures tell more than words.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=t8Q7mXdcJ54&feature=player_embedded
hope that helps you
thanks wasn't the information I was looking for but nevermind
I assembled the device now .. but the next problem occured ..
the hd2 is loading without problems (led shows it) but when I try to power it on it's completely dead. nothing happends
with my old touchscreen it was at least possible to power it on.
my question is:
could the new soldered touchscreen + digitizer be broken? or did I break something during disassembly and assembly?
To be honest I didn't see any mistakes I made.
It's not my first time repairing stuff like that because I used to repair notebooks as a hobby.
Still i'm unsure what the heck is going on with my phone atm.
did you check if the flex cable from display is in the port, there is an white stripe that shows how far it must in the port. Did the phone vibrate when you pressed power button?
I checked the cables and found nothing suspicious.
and the phone didnt even vibrate after trying to power it on.
I'm trying to get a new hardkey board (i hope you know what I mean).
Had problems with the keys being stuck and maybe I killed that one by trying to assemble it.
if the phone doesn't recognize me pushing the power on key it's no wonder it won't do anything.
hope this will fix the problem
12dollar said:
I checked the cables and found nothing suspicious.
and the phone didnt even vibrate after trying to power it on.
I'm trying to get a new hardkey board (i hope you know what I mean).
Had problems with the keys being stuck and maybe I killed that one by trying to assemble it.
if the phone doesn't recognize me pushing the power on key it's no wonder it won't do anything.
hope this will fix the problem
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Most likely something is wrong with your Power button, but you should turn it on with 2nd method:
- pull out battery;
- insert usb cable(connected to PC)/charger in your usb port;
- insert battery.
This way it should turn on whatever OS you have installed on.
If your OS is Android through MAGLDR, connecting it through usb should turn it on by default, unless your battery is not dead!
Check it out!
bib*oops said:
Most likely something is wrong with your Power button, but you should turn it on with 2nd method:
- pull out battery;
- insert usb cable(connected to PC)/charger in your usb port;
- insert battery.
This way it should turn on whatever OS you have installed on.
If your OS is Android through MAGLDR, connecting it through usb should turn it on by default, unless your battery is not dead!
Check it out!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I just did as you said and yeah the phone came to life.
so there is definately a dead power button (probably the board is broken)
12dollar said:
I just did as you said and yeah the phone came to life.
so there is definately a dead power button (probably the board is broken)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Glad to hear that!
Definitely you should replace your keypad flex!
Did you fix the problem with the hardware keys
Hi,
I have very similar problem.
I changed the touch screen on my HD2 and after reassembling I cannot get the hardware keys clicked.
I ordered a brand new key board and brand new plastic buttons. I received them but situation is the same.
If somebody can explain is there any trick during adjusting the plastic buttons to the clickable "small dots" on the board - please help me.
Best Regards
maznevh said:
Hi,
I have very similar problem.
I changed the touch screen on my HD2 and after reassembling I cannot get the hardware keys clicked.
I ordered a brand new key board and brand new plastic buttons. I received them but situation is the same.
If somebody can explain is there any trick during adjusting the plastic buttons to the clickable "small dots" on the board - please help me.
Best Regards
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Normally this is always down to glass digitizer not being aligned correctly when stuck to LCD.
0.05mm can make all the difference here.
You need review current digitizer position & pre test assembly to centre chassis without tape for a test run on button function.
Also check button board position is exact & located correctly in the pin holes at each end of the board.
original board quality is normally far better than most of the very cheap eBay pattern parts but one or two sellers offer a decent board around $4.50
Also clean all old tape from back of LCD & centre chassis plate so parts fit flush & once all checked new tape can be added, I also use small spots of up40 adhesive sealant near corners & near middle edges for final build up as holds far better than even the best tapes & gives an original strength & long lasting flush look to final job plus us easily removed with razor blade if repair ever needed again.
Super glue is a BIG no no NO.
Hard to get hardware buttons clickable
Mister B said:
Normally this is always down to glass digitizer not being aligned correctly when stuck to LCD.
0.05mm can make all the difference here.
You need review current digitizer position & pre test assembly to centre chassis without tape for a test run on button function.
Also check button board position is exact & located correctly in the pin holes at each end of the board.
original board quality is normally far better than most of the very cheap eBay pattern parts but one or two sellers offer a decent board around $4.50
Also clean all old tape from back of LCD & centre chassis plate so parts fit flush & once all checked new tape can be added, I also use small spots of up40 adhesive sealant near corners & near middle edges for final build up as holds far better than even the best tapes & gives an original strength & long lasting flush look to final job plus us easily removed with razor blade if repair ever needed again.
Super glue is a BIG no no NO.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It is not the case in my case , because I ordered full set (digitizer + display) and they arrived factory assembled.
But you are definitely right - 0.05 mm make the difference. I think the problem comes from the fact that the board with buttons cannot be firmly fixed to the 2 small juts on the chassis. You know the plug of the buttons board is on the tail like extension. Probably when I try to cover the buttons board with the LCD+digitizer - the frame of the LCD slightly pushes the buttons board and the juts on the plastic buttons cannot be fixed exactly on the top of the actual buttons on the board. Anyway we are speaking about precise fixing something around 0.05 mm over something else, which is exactly same size... and in the same time you have to fix this without any visibility.
I will continue trying. If you can give me any other ideas - I will appreciate this.
Thanks
maznevh said:
It is not the case in my case , because I ordered full set (digitizer + display) and they arrived factory assembled.
But you are definitely right - 0.05 mm make the difference. I think the problem comes from the fact that the board with buttons cannot be firmly fixed to the 2 small juts on the chassis. You know the plug of the buttons board is on the tail like extension. Probably when I try to cover the buttons board with the LCD+digitizer - the frame of the LCD slightly pushes the buttons board and the juts on the plastic buttons cannot be fixed exactly on the top of the actual buttons on the board. Anyway we are speaking about precise fixing something around 0.05 mm over something else, which is exactly same size... and in the same time you have to fix this without any visibility.
I will continue trying. If you can give me any other ideas - I will appreciate this.
Thanks
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Do not rule out the LCD/Digitizer assembly as the china combos are prone to not the best accuracy of assembly as sounds like maybe LCD is mounted just a fraction too low on the digitizer perhaps.
Button board should be fixed via 3M style tape & most replacement boards come with tape ready for fitting.
worth making effort with button board to centre chassis to mount securely then mounting lcd to chassis without tape for a trial assembly & try and check for possible issues such as bent chassis or old tape not removed sufficiently or new assembly alignment not the best.
I would also recommend using original plastic button strip as the copy ones are not always good & have had experience with them before.